First and only on I found on CZcams which deals with the 4.2V6 which is DIFFERENT than the V8’s. I can’t find a fuel pump modulator, likely because it doesn’t have one. Looked, it ain’t there! Thanks for confirming that!
Thanks for the video sir. I have a 2000 F150. Several weeks ago it started missing a little but Sea Foam cleared it up so I thought it was bad gas.Then it wouldn't start at all but did an hour later. It did this a few times and eventually failed to start at all. I'm not hearing the pump prime I'm showing no codes and have no blown fuses but haven't jumped the relay yet. You gave me some ideas to check tommorow so thanks for the knowledge. I've heard there's a fuel pump driver module that goes bad due to galvanic corrosion so I'm hoping that is my problem and not the pump. Take care and God bless
Could have leaky fuel injectors that are flooding the engine after you shut it down.(hot soak) After a while the fuel evaporates and it restarts. To test for this you need a fuel pressure test gauge. After you shut the engine down the pressure should hold for a good while. Keep in mind that a failing check valve in the fuel pump or fuel regulator can also allow the pressure to drop, But the symptom is usually long crank time only for this. If it where a crank sensor you won't have spark when it fails, So check for that. The iac ( idle air control ) only affects idle and would have a symptom like stalling while sitting at a traffic light. Or erratic idle. Good luck with it ! Rob......
Sorry, But I just remembered on more thing Iv'e seen. Had a friend who was breaking down intermittently with the v-8 version of your truck. When I tested, it had no power to the fuel pump. While I was checking and moving things at the under hood fuse box I heard the fuel pump randomly prime. It ended up being a bad connection inside of the fuse box itself. (he fixed himself) so I didn't see it, But the truck has been fine since. He had replaced his EGR valve ( against my advice LOL ) because when he banged on it the truck would start. Turns out he was just rattling the poor connection in the fuse box without knowing it.
Hey had similar problem it was the crankshaft position sensor had power at the pump no spark in the plugs and no code. Test the relays and fuses or chip in key might be bad.
Having a problem with my ‘99 4.2. Most of the time it turns over and no start. Fuel pump primes but only intermittently. Once I hear it prime, I turn the key, fires up right away and runs great. But then once shut off again it takes a lot of key turning to get it to prime again. Not sure if the pump is failing or if it’s electrical. Going to try swapping the relay next to see if that helps. Pump seems fine when it’s getting power.
Sounds like a good place to start also as I mentioned in the video. The next time it fails, turn the key to on and have someone tap on the bottom of the fuel tank with a mallet and see if that gets the fuel pump going. sometimes that can tell you for sure that it was the fuel pump failing.
Great video! My 02 5.4L is doing the same thing and all fuses/relays are ok. One odd thing I wanted to ask about is I was assuming it was the fuel pump and no pressure at rail, then all of a sudden after checking every day for a week one day it started and ran fine up to full engine temp. When I turned it off and immediately tried to re-start, got the crank, NO start again. Just seems like a weird way for the pump to be intermittent. Any ideas guys?
I have seen fuel pumps fail intermittently like that that's why in the video I talked about sometimes you can smack the bottom of the fuel tank a few times with a rubber mallet and get it going again in an emergency side of the road situation. sounds crazy but it has gotten me out of a jam before more than once
Thx for the video...I'm having the same problem.... it'll crank but won't start. My 2001 f150 has been sitting for a really long time. It has a dead battery and when I jump it... the truck cranks. My question is... from sitting so long do you think the fuel pump would just die on me? Is that a normal thing if it's just sitting for a very long time?
Justin, while I have not seen that exact problem happen. I do believe that it could happen especially if there was very little gas in the tank the top of the fuel pump where the wire connections are made would not be submerged in gas and could likely get corroded from different temperatures of day and night happening and causing condensation inside the tank you should be able to hear the fuel pump Prime as I think I described in the video if you listen very carefully when you turn the key to the on position. ( not crank ) it may be helpful to get under the truck and put your ear to the tank while someone turns the key to on you should hear it for about 3 to 5 Seconds making a buzz noise. You may have to repeat this over and over as it will only last for three to five seconds each time you cycle the key. also one other thing when you jump a dead battery with jumper cables, if it is cranking very slowly or weak it's going to diminish the power going to the ignition system because the starter is consuming most of the power so be aware of that. it's usually best to charge a battery properly with a battery charger on a very low 2 or 4 amp charge overnight if it's been sitting dead for a long time
What happens if you change it and it still dosent start and starter is good and battery is good and fuel filter is new it dose still have the old gas in it dose that need to be drained
Juan when you say you changed it I assume you mean that you changed the fuel pump if you did I would still check to see if you have pressure at the Schrader valve that's the valve that looks like a tire valve on the fuel injector rail on the engine like I showed in the video also don't forget to check the fundamentals like do you have spark and things like that
Might be worth to make mention of the inertia switch that is in the passanger kick panel, it will keep the pump from running ! It is there to shut the pump of after a collision, BUT closing the passanger door to hard can cause it to trip 😢
4.2 V-6 1999 f150 changed fuel pump and filter. Still wont run in drive idles ok reverse ok put in drive it starts shaking coughing dies. No codes come up. Cant get to fuel pressure regulator cant find fuel pressure sensor ? Cant afford mechanic . what could it be? BTW im homeless this is my home without it im pushing shopping cart PLEASE HELP? TYIA
03 4.2 5 speed; Starts right up and runs fine, but won't restart right after. It left me stranded in a parking lot and towed her home. It cranks and cranks but wont fire unless I let it sit. I did the fuel pump and filter last year, pretty simple job, and had no issues until now. Im thinking either a failing fuel pump, IAC, or crank sensor. Any ideas?
I’m having a no start issue with a 98 F150. I have no fuel pump pressure. I have checked fuses, relay, inertia switch and still nothing. We bench tested the pump and the pump runs with 12 bolts going to it. But when it is attached to the trucks wiring harness, it will not energize. Any suggestions?
There are a few things you could look at Michael. One is the PATS (passive anti theft system). When trying to start the truck there should NOT be a symbol of a key flashing on the instrument cluster. If it is you may have a problem with the chip in the key or elsewhere in the system. Also regarding the relay it's difficult to explain without drawing a diagram but i'll try. If you look at the bottom of the relay you'll see numbers next to each pin: 30,87,87a 85,86 disregard 87a. mark these numbers on the outside of the relay then plug it partly in leaving a little metal showing. now you can run some test. 30 should be B+ from the fuse. When cranking it should close the relay making 87 hot(B+) This should feed to the fuel pump. If not pins 85 and 86 are the relay control pins one will be hot (B+) with the key on and the other should be a ground when cranking fed from the ECM if not it may be inhibited by the ECM for some reason or a harness problem
@@robbieraychannel hay have a problem like that, the fuel pump work only one second, do you know if the negative signal comes from the clúster? And so which pin Is? Tnks
Any suggestions..my truck starts whenever i charge the battery..stays started for about 15 minutes and gives out. Wondering what it could be. But when it is started it makes a knocking noise.
Courtney, It sounds like your alternator is not charging your battery.When you charge your battery it will be able to run your ignition system until it drains the battery down. That would explain your 15 min. run time. To test this, Charge your battery, start your engine, turn on your headlights and place your heat on high (this puts a load on the electrical system) use a multi-meter set to d/c volts. red lead on the battery positive post and black on the battery negative. It should read about 14.2 volts. If it doesn't you can have your alternator tested for free at most auto parts stores. As for the knocking, It could be a pre-ignition problem caused by the compromised ignition system, So I would check this first
Can you tell me where can I start to check cus I made a mistake on my 2000 expedition connecting wrong battery cables and now just crank no start, no fuel pressure,fuel fuse and relay ok, please🙏🏻
usually when something like that happens you should start looking at the larger maxi fuses. those are the ones in the corner of the fuse panel that is in the engine compartment as shown in my video. They will have numbers like 30,40,50 or even 100. they have a clear top on them so you can see if the fuse inside looks burnt. If one looks burnt, remove it and test it for continuity with a multi meter. Also most vehicles have whats known as fuseable links built into the wiring harness. These can be tough to find because they are taped up within the harness. If you don't find any bad maxi fuses start researching the location of the fuseable links for your model. They are usually in the wiring close to the battery connections. Good luck with it !!!
@@robbieraychannel hi thanks for respond, I tested the fuseablelink it has continuity and now I check the diode in front of the PCM relay and I’m no sure how should has to be hot all the time ?cus there’s no power with key on position
If I am understanding you correctly this all started when you accidentally connected your battery cables in reverse polarity??? If this is what happened you probably blew a large amperage fuse like I described : a 40,50,60 or 100 amp. be sure to check these large fuses carefully. Also, Can you read any fault codes? Are the lights on the instrument cluster coming on. What things work and what things don't ?
I would need a little more detail to be able to help you. when you say the ignition is busted do you mean the plug that is under the dash that goes to the ignition switch itself
My 2002 F-150 5.4 one morning wouldn't start. Cranked Strong but seemed to not be getting fuel. New plugs strong crank. 8hrs Later started right up and 2 weeks later still starts and running smooth. Any advice on what to do??
Barry you could start observing if it seems to have a long crank time before starting. This is usually a sign of slow building fuel pressure. The best way to check this is with a fuel pressure gauge hooked into the fuel rail. Not sure of the spec. off the top of my head but usually about 45-60 psi. should show pretty quickly at start up and not bleed down to quickly after shutting the motor down. There are numerous causes for out of spec. readings. So if your readings do seem off be sure to do some research before condemning the fuel pump. Good luck with it Rob...
@@robbieraychannel thanks..is that your way of saying there's a probability instead of p of possibility its a failing fuel pump..? I'm not much more than small parts replacement guy. But sounds like you are..
@@robbieraychannel I asked the shop guys about it and their answer was it was starting every time they tried it and that no way to tell without a failure... which I thought was strange answer... so why wouldn't they have thought about testing the pressure.....sounds like they just wanted a $650.00 fuel pump replacement job... that shop is very busy and " of good reputation...I have noticed that sometimes it seems that it cranks long in the morning...
Barry, As a pro mechanic myself I do understand their hesitation to make a diagnoses without a clear direction to go in. Remember there are four basic things a motor needs to run : fuel, ignition, timing and compression. fuel and ignition are of course the more likely to fail categories. If there are no fault codes stored in the ecm it's going to be more difficult to narrow down if it's a fuel or ignition problem. You might be able to use that tool loaner program that most auto parts stores have to test the fuel pressure yourself. I have seen fuel pumps fail intermittently at times before totally crapping out. but you have very little evidence to make that call on just replacing it. Start paying attention to when you turn your key to just on not crank. you should hear a faint buzz sound from the fuel pump priming for about 3 seconds each time you do it from off to on. If the truck ever fails to start again listen for this sound. If you don't hear it it means the fuel pump is not turning on when it should. If this symptom does happen and your broke down somewhere, slide under the truck and kick the bottom of the fuel tank a few times. I know it sounds crazy but this has saved my butt a few times on the road by getting the pump going again just one more time.
Hay robbie Wat would happen on the fuel pump relay if I touched the power and the pin on the left..you said it was a delicate circuit ...ive replaced everything and still NO fuel pump...i did cross those two wires though
Hello billy sorry i don't have the schematic on hand for your truck so i don't know which one of those circuits is the ecm ground. I hope you used a low amp fuse like i suggested. If you didn't you may have damaged something.
Terrell, If I were you I would be sure to rule everything else out first. I have been a mechanic for 25 years and I have only seen a handful of bad ECM's ever. more than likely that is the last thing that would be wrong. Double-check to be sure that you have spark and fuel pressure at the fuel rail
Yeah buddy, my dashboard is doing weird things and when I turn the key, the tech amateur doesn’t work on the dashboard, but it will show the RPMs on live data code. Reader
Yeah buddy, my dashboard is doing weird things and when I turn the key, the tech amateur doesn’t work on the dashboard, but it will show the RPMs on live data code. Reader
4.2 V-6 1999 f150 changed fuel pump and filter. Still wont run in drive idles ok reverse ok put in drive it starts shaking coughing dies. No codes come up. Cant get to fuel pressure regulator cant find fuel pressure sensor ? Cant afford mechanic . what could it be? BTW im homeless this is my home without it im pushing shopping cart PLEASE HELP? TYIA
Anyone please chime in with help, ive already spent 300+$ on parts and tools trying to get to regulator cant get clip to release. To change it out. Cant find video for my year and engine type.
If I remember correctly those engines can develop a bad vacuum leak all the way on the back of the engine under the windshield area where the engine comes close to the firewall you have to get way up in there there is a rubber 90-degree hose that goes bad if it does the engine will run poorly and shake like that and not necessarily throw a code
Thanks I'll check I've couldn't even get to fuel pressure regulator, but I've ruled that out because there's no black smoke. Now it still idles ok reverse ok but put in drive just doesn't run smooth wants to die. I couldn't find fuel pressure sensor. Still no codes. My girlfriend keeps saying it's fuse or relay or something electrical. 🙄 head shaking. Lol
Dude you rock!! CZcams the most valued tool on my belt.
Thanks Morris, I'm glad it helped you out
First and only on I found on CZcams which deals with the 4.2V6 which is DIFFERENT than the V8’s. I can’t find a fuel pump modulator, likely because it doesn’t have one. Looked, it ain’t there! Thanks for confirming that!
You're welcome Tony good luck with it
Thanks for the video sir. I have a 2000 F150. Several weeks ago it started missing a little but Sea Foam cleared it up so I thought it was bad gas.Then it wouldn't start at all but did an hour later. It did this a few times and eventually failed to start at all. I'm not hearing the pump prime I'm showing no codes and have no blown fuses but haven't jumped the relay yet. You gave me some ideas to check tommorow so thanks for the knowledge. I've heard there's a fuel pump driver module that goes bad due to galvanic corrosion so I'm hoping that is my problem and not the pump. Take care and God bless
good luck with it BIG MAC !!!
Could have leaky fuel injectors that are flooding the engine after you shut it down.(hot soak) After a while the fuel evaporates and it restarts. To test for this you need a fuel pressure test gauge. After you shut the engine down the pressure should hold for a good while. Keep in mind that a failing check valve in the fuel pump or fuel regulator can also allow the pressure to drop, But the symptom is usually long crank time only for this. If it where a crank sensor you won't have spark when it fails, So check for that. The iac ( idle air control ) only affects idle and would have a symptom like stalling while sitting at a traffic light. Or erratic idle. Good luck with it ! Rob......
Sorry, But I just remembered on more thing Iv'e seen. Had a friend who was breaking down intermittently with the v-8 version of your truck. When I tested, it had no power to the fuel pump. While I was checking and moving things at the under hood fuse box I heard the fuel pump randomly prime. It ended up being a bad connection inside of the fuse box itself. (he fixed himself) so I didn't see it, But the truck has been fine since. He had replaced his EGR valve ( against my advice LOL ) because when he banged on it the truck would start. Turns out he was just rattling the poor connection in the fuse box without knowing it.
Thanks for all your information
Keep up all your efforts
Thanks for your knowledge and for sharing this information. It save my day.
You're welcome I'm glad it helped you out
Thanks. I have a 2002 f150 doin the same thing. I'll have that checked 👍
No problem Angela. I hope it all works out for you... Rob......
97 f150 4.2... Same problem. Same issues. Same results. Thanx.
Your welcome
Hey had similar problem it was the crankshaft position sensor had power at the pump no spark in the plugs and no code. Test the relays and fuses or chip in key might be bad.
I need help I can't get no spark or power to fuel pump
Your welcome Joey I hope the info. helped you out
Having a problem with my ‘99 4.2. Most of the time it turns over and no start. Fuel pump primes but only intermittently. Once I hear it prime, I turn the key, fires up right away and runs great. But then once shut off again it takes a lot of key turning to get it to prime again. Not sure if the pump is failing or if it’s electrical. Going to try swapping the relay next to see if that helps. Pump seems fine when it’s getting power.
Sounds like a good place to start also as I mentioned in the video. The next time it fails, turn the key to on and have someone tap on the bottom of the fuel tank with a mallet and see if that gets the fuel pump going. sometimes that can tell you for sure that it was the fuel pump failing.
Thanks for your time!
Any time
hey! just wanted to say thanks! it was a big help!
Glad it helped!
Big time thanks. Excellent info.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! My 02 5.4L is doing the same thing and all fuses/relays are ok. One odd thing I wanted to ask about is I was assuming it was the fuel pump and no pressure at rail, then all of a sudden after checking every day for a week one day it started and ran fine up to full engine temp. When I turned it off and immediately tried to re-start, got the crank, NO start again. Just seems like a weird way for the pump to be intermittent. Any ideas guys?
I have seen fuel pumps fail intermittently like that that's why in the video I talked about sometimes you can smack the bottom of the fuel tank a few times with a rubber mallet and get it going again in an emergency side of the road situation. sounds crazy but it has gotten me out of a jam before more than once
@@robbieraychannel yup, it was the pump
Great video.....really helps with troubleshooting skills.
Thanks for watching!
Thx for the video...I'm having the same problem.... it'll crank but won't start. My 2001 f150 has been sitting for a really long time. It has a dead battery and when I jump it... the truck cranks. My question is... from sitting so long do you think the fuel pump would just die on me? Is that a normal thing if it's just sitting for a very long time?
Justin, while I have not seen that exact problem happen. I do believe that it could happen especially if there was very little gas in the tank the top of the fuel pump where the wire connections are made would not be submerged in gas and could likely get corroded from different temperatures of day and night happening and causing condensation inside the tank you should be able to hear the fuel pump Prime as I think I described in the video if you listen very carefully when you turn the key to the on position. ( not crank ) it may be helpful to get under the truck and put your ear to the tank while someone turns the key to on you should hear it for about 3 to 5 Seconds making a buzz noise. You may have to repeat this over and over as it will only last for three to five seconds each time you cycle the key. also one other thing when you jump a dead battery with jumper cables, if it is cranking very slowly or weak it's going to diminish the power going to the ignition system because the starter is consuming most of the power so be aware of that. it's usually best to charge a battery properly with a battery charger on a very low 2 or 4 amp charge overnight if it's been sitting dead for a long time
@@robbieraychannel you are the man thank you so much for the quick reply I will give it a try and I'll let you know. Tyty
@@justinmertz6408 you're welcome hope it works out ok for you
The fact that my lincoln didnt fire with starter fluid is the only reason i watched this video.
What happens if you change it and it still dosent start and starter is good and battery is good and fuel filter is new it dose still have the old gas in it dose that need to be drained
Juan when you say you changed it I assume you mean that you changed the fuel pump if you did I would still check to see if you have pressure at the Schrader valve that's the valve that looks like a tire valve on the fuel injector rail on the engine like I showed in the video also don't forget to check the fundamentals like do you have spark and things like that
Might be worth to make mention of the inertia switch that is in the passanger kick panel, it will keep the pump from running ! It is there to shut the pump of after a collision, BUT closing the passanger door to hard can cause it to trip 😢
I have an issue. I have air, spark and fuel to the rail. It cranks but wont fully turn over it putters but wont fully turn over. Any suggestions?
4.2 V-6 1999 f150 changed fuel pump and filter. Still wont run in drive idles ok reverse ok put in drive it starts shaking coughing dies. No codes come up. Cant get to fuel pressure regulator cant find fuel pressure sensor ? Cant afford mechanic . what could it be? BTW im homeless this is my home without it im pushing shopping cart PLEASE HELP? TYIA
Thanks man
Your welcome!!!
03 4.2 5 speed;
Starts right up and runs fine, but won't restart right after. It left me stranded in a parking lot and towed her home. It cranks and cranks but wont fire unless I let it sit. I did the fuel pump and filter last year, pretty simple job, and had no issues until now.
Im thinking either a failing fuel pump, IAC, or crank sensor.
Any ideas?
Did you get it fixed mine did the same and it ended up being the starter solenoid super easy to do its right on top of the fire wall passenger side
✅
Cool
02??? CHECK BATTERY IN KEY.
I’m having a no start issue with a 98 F150. I have no fuel pump pressure. I have checked fuses, relay, inertia switch and still nothing. We bench tested the pump and the pump runs with 12 bolts going to it. But when it is attached to the trucks wiring harness, it will not energize. Any suggestions?
There are a few things you could look at Michael. One is the PATS (passive anti theft system). When trying to start the truck there should NOT be a symbol of a key flashing on the instrument cluster. If it is you may have a problem with the chip in the key or elsewhere in the system. Also regarding the relay it's difficult to explain without drawing a diagram but i'll try. If you look at the bottom of the relay you'll see numbers next to each pin: 30,87,87a 85,86 disregard 87a. mark these numbers on the outside of the relay then plug it partly in leaving a little metal showing. now you can run some test. 30 should be B+ from the fuse. When cranking it should close the relay making 87 hot(B+) This should feed to the fuel pump. If not pins 85 and 86 are the relay control pins one will be hot (B+) with the key on and the other should be a ground when cranking fed from the ECM if not it may be inhibited by the ECM for some reason or a harness problem
@@robbieraychannel hay have a problem like that, the fuel pump work only one second, do you know if the negative signal comes from the clúster? And so which pin Is? Tnks
Need a copy of trouble codes
Good video 👌👊
thank's
Any suggestions..my truck starts whenever i charge the battery..stays started for about 15 minutes and gives out. Wondering what it could be. But when it is started it makes a knocking noise.
Courtney, It sounds like your alternator is not charging your battery.When you charge your battery it will be able to run your ignition system until it drains the battery down. That would explain your 15 min. run time. To test this, Charge your battery, start your engine, turn on your headlights and place your heat on high (this puts a load on the electrical system) use a multi-meter set to d/c volts. red lead on the battery positive post and black on the battery negative. It should read about 14.2 volts. If it doesn't you can have your alternator tested for free at most auto parts stores. As for the knocking, It could be a pre-ignition problem caused by the compromised ignition system, So I would check this first
@@robbieraychannel tysm
Can you tell me where can I start to check cus I made a mistake on my 2000 expedition connecting wrong battery cables and now just crank no start, no fuel pressure,fuel fuse and relay ok, please🙏🏻
usually when something like that happens you should start looking at the larger maxi fuses. those are the ones in the corner of the fuse panel that is in the engine compartment as shown in my video. They will have numbers like 30,40,50 or even 100. they have a clear top on them so you can see if the fuse inside looks burnt. If one looks burnt, remove it and test it for continuity with a multi meter. Also most vehicles have whats known as fuseable links built into the wiring harness. These can be tough to find because they are taped up within the harness. If you don't find any bad maxi fuses start researching the location of the fuseable links for your model. They are usually in the wiring close to the battery connections. Good luck with it !!!
@@robbieraychannel hi thanks for respond, I tested the fuseablelink it has continuity and now I check the diode in front of the PCM relay and I’m no sure how should has to be hot all the time ?cus there’s no power with key on position
If I am understanding you correctly this all started when you accidentally connected your battery cables in reverse polarity??? If this is what happened you probably blew a large amperage fuse like I described : a 40,50,60 or 100 amp. be sure to check these large fuses carefully. Also, Can you read any fault codes? Are the lights on the instrument cluster coming on. What things work and what things don't ?
Mine cranks the ignition has been busted and the wires that go to the front of ignition are busted what do I do
I would need a little more detail to be able to help you. when you say the ignition is busted do you mean the plug that is under the dash that goes to the ignition switch itself
My 2002 F-150 5.4 one morning wouldn't start. Cranked Strong but seemed to not be getting fuel. New plugs strong crank. 8hrs Later started right up and 2 weeks later still starts and running smooth. Any advice on what to do??
Barry you could start observing if it seems to have a long crank time before starting. This is usually a sign of slow building fuel pressure. The best way to check this is with a fuel pressure gauge hooked into the fuel rail. Not sure of the spec. off the top of my head but usually about 45-60 psi. should show pretty quickly at start up and not bleed down to quickly after shutting the motor down. There are numerous causes for out of spec. readings. So if your readings do seem off be sure to do some research before condemning the fuel pump. Good luck with it Rob...
@@robbieraychannel thanks..is that your way of saying there's a probability instead of p of possibility its a failing fuel pump..? I'm not much more than small parts replacement guy. But sounds like you are..
@@robbieraychannel I asked the shop guys about it and their answer was it was starting every time they tried it and that no way to tell without a failure... which I thought was strange answer... so why wouldn't they have thought about testing the pressure.....sounds like they just wanted a $650.00 fuel pump replacement job... that shop is very busy and " of good reputation...I have noticed that sometimes it seems that it cranks long in the morning...
Barry, As a pro mechanic myself I do understand their hesitation to make a diagnoses without a clear direction to go in. Remember there are four basic things a motor needs to run : fuel, ignition, timing and compression. fuel and ignition are of course the more likely to fail categories. If there are no fault codes stored in the ecm it's going to be more difficult to narrow down if it's a fuel or ignition problem. You might be able to use that tool loaner program that most auto parts stores have to test the fuel pressure yourself. I have seen fuel pumps fail intermittently at times before totally crapping out. but you have very little evidence to make that call on just replacing it. Start paying attention to when you turn your key to just on not crank. you should hear a faint buzz sound from the fuel pump priming for about 3 seconds each time you do it from off to on. If the truck ever fails to start again listen for this sound. If you don't hear it it means the fuel pump is not turning on when it should. If this symptom does happen and your broke down somewhere, slide under the truck and kick the bottom of the fuel tank a few times. I know it sounds crazy but this has saved my butt a few times on the road by getting the pump going again just one more time.
That's excellent advice. robbieray
Hay robbie Wat would happen on the fuel pump relay if I touched the power and the pin on the left..you said it was a delicate circuit ...ive replaced everything and still NO fuel pump...i did cross those two wires though
Hello billy sorry i don't have the schematic on hand for your truck so i don't know which one of those circuits is the ecm ground. I hope you used a low amp fuse like i suggested. If you didn't you may have damaged something.
Tnks sr
your welcome
I think my no crank no start is the ECM issue
Terrell, If I were you I would be sure to rule everything else out first. I have been a mechanic for 25 years and I have only seen a handful of bad ECM's ever. more than likely that is the last thing that would be wrong. Double-check to be sure that you have spark and fuel pressure at the fuel rail
Yeah buddy, my dashboard is doing weird things and when I turn the key, the tech amateur doesn’t work on the dashboard, but it will show the RPMs on live data code. Reader
Yeah buddy, my dashboard is doing weird things and when I turn the key, the tech amateur doesn’t work on the dashboard, but it will show the RPMs on live data code. Reader
Awwwkay
See i got crank but no spark and no start
Diganlo en español porfavor
I'm
Aa
I hate these videos where they go over a couple things and then it’s “well thanks for watching “!!! They never fix it!!
4.2 V-6 1999 f150 changed fuel pump and filter. Still wont run in drive idles ok reverse ok put in drive it starts shaking coughing dies. No codes come up. Cant get to fuel pressure regulator cant find fuel pressure sensor ? Cant afford mechanic . what could it be? BTW im homeless this is my home without it im pushing shopping cart PLEASE HELP? TYIA
Anyone please chime in with help, ive already spent 300+$ on parts and tools trying to get to regulator cant get clip to release. To change it out. Cant find video for my year and engine type.
If I remember correctly those engines can develop a bad vacuum leak all the way on the back of the engine under the windshield area where the engine comes close to the firewall you have to get way up in there there is a rubber 90-degree hose that goes bad if it does the engine will run poorly and shake like that and not necessarily throw a code
Thanks I'll check I've couldn't even get to fuel pressure regulator, but I've ruled that out because there's no black smoke. Now it still idles ok reverse ok but put in drive just doesn't run smooth wants to die. I couldn't find fuel pressure sensor. Still no codes. My girlfriend keeps saying it's fuse or relay or something electrical. 🙄 head shaking. Lol