ECS Tuning: MKV / MKVI Sway Bar Kit Installation
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Available at: www.ecstuning....
A complete sway bar set including 26mm & 23mm front & rear sway bars and installation hardware
Upgrade your handling and your ride control with a new sway bar from ECS Tuning.
A sway bar on your vehicle is essentially a connection between the left and right lower control arms. When you take a corner in your vehicle, the sway bars flex and rebound like a spring. Stock bars give a stock performance.
If you want to be able to handle corners more aggressively, you can start by adding a thicker sway bar. A thicker sway bar will be less apt to bend and distort and will keep your wheel more solidly planted to the pavement. You experience less body roll, but it comes at the price of a little bit of ride comfort.
If you want to be able to take the turns a little more aggressively, upgrade to these thicker, stronger sway bars for your Volkswagen or Audi.
ECS Tuning is dedicated to bringing you the highest quality in aftermarket parts, and this replacement sway bar is no exception.
Includes everything needed for installation, including the upgraded front sub-frame hardware.
TORQUE SPECS for Rear Sway Bar to Sub Frame (brackets) = 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm) + 45 Degrees
This tutorial is provided as a courtesy by ECS Tuning.
Proper service and repair procedures are vital to the safe, reliable operation of all motor vehicles as well as the personal safety of those performing the repairs. Standard safety procedures and precautions (including use of safety goggles and proper tools and equipment) should be followed at all times to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
Although this material has been prepared with the intent to provide reliable information, no warranty (express or implied) is made as to its accuracy or completeness. Neither is any liability assumed for loss or damage resulting from reliance on this material. SPECIFICALLY, NO WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR ANY OTHER WARRANTY IS MADE OR TO BE IMPLIED WITH RESPECT TO THIS MATERIAL. In no event will ECS Tuning, Incorporated or its affiliates be liable for any damages, direct or indirect, consequential or compensatory, arising out of the use of this material.
Things done wrong in this video:
1) Front subframe alignment locking pins not used - Front end will be completely out of alignment with crooked steering wheel
2) Front sway bar bracket bolts not replaced - these are TTY/Stretch bolts and must be replaced
3) Front drop link nuts not replaced - one time use locking nuts
4) Rear drop link nuts not replaced - one time use locking nuts
5) Rear sway bar bracket bolts not replaced - TTY/Stretch bolts.
6) Rear sway bar bracket bolts should be tightened in unladen position - or torsional stresses can prematurely wear bushings.
7) Bolts powered in with impact gun could cross thread (as in 8:28), should be started by hand.
Other than the above 7 points resulting in a potential death trap.....great job!
Correct.
While this is correct I'd be amazed if many workshops go to the trouble of replacing every such nut and bolt when working on a car regardless of where they are. There must be a lot of 'death traps' on the road, mine included.
Bord oow life
Starting a bolt with an air tool is a great way to cross thread said bolt, potentially making your life much more difficult down the road.
You should generally start bolts by hand, then you can use air tools if you like.
Josh Castaneda the one bolt he put on for the control arm is probably cross threaded. That air gun shouldn't have been impacting like that all the way to the end.
Josh Castaneda was going to say the same thing.
Much respect to all those here who attempted this as a DIY project. Not me, taking it to the shop baby. Call me when she is ready.
same here, less to worry about.
Exactly take my money, keep the stress too..😂
Just installed a MK6 GTI front SB on a MK6 JSW tdi, manual trans. This video was helpful but did not exactly describe my situation. I ended up having to take the entire driver's side control arm/strut assembly apart and then hooked the sway bar through there. Reassembled with old bolts using blue loctite and took it to firestone for alignment - nearly perfect.
Took me about 3.5 hours doing it in my garage with normal hand tools. Not bad at all, actually.
FYI, rear install starts at 11:08
Two things: holy shit the front sway bar is an ordeal to change out and that music is dope af 😁😁😁😁
Thank you ECS !
Holy cow!! No way I’m replacing my front sway bar now! They have to sell the bar dirt cheap to out weight the time and labor it take to install it.
, ,,of
WARNING !!! Do NOT attempt to do the front swaybar if you have a stock front swaybar on. Unless you are game enough to drop the entire subframe, because the bushing is fused to the bar and the bracket is riveted together. In this video as seen the sway bar taken out was already an after market one.
I just did the front myself with no lift and on my back. Just jack stands and good old Advil. The eibach pro kit with both front and back anti roll bars takes some commitment from a DIYer. .. 😂
use about a 1/2 inch drill bit and drill the backside and the nuts fall off for reuse
@ssk3204 I'm going to do this on an m6 2015 jetta. Is there an issue to get enough clearance if the car is not jacked up high enough?
@@charvelgaming2975 as long as you fit under it safely .
@custompiece4269 I'm going to have a local shop do it for me. $195 is not bad considering I'm on disability and lack the strength to do this on my own
No one noticed that he got a haircut towards the end of the video.. I had to do a double take on it. But see for yourself
lmaoooooo
LOL
I think he got all of them cut
Zach Carter I've seen this video a dozen time and didn't catch that tell you pointed it out
dead af right now ;'D lmafoo
UK right hand drive took me 4hr in my driveway with the car on 4 stands. On RHD models you need to take off three steering bolts and undo a 10mm holding a wire harness. You also need to drop the subframe right down as the mounts are not removable like in this vid, they are riveted on so the entire thing needs to come out. What I did was use longer bolts in the holes of the subframe and dropped it low enough to get it out. I got my neighbour to make up an alignment tool simmilar to the VW special tool and it all went back together fine after I kicked it it for a while. ⚠️ If you don't use the alignment tool you will put the entire front end out of alignment and the steering wheel will be a mess. It can even throw up the G45 steering angle sensor code
When you say steering bolts what do you mean
Don’t do this unless you have subframe alignment equipment. I just blindly followed this video and threw my alignment off big time. (A subframe alignment and new stretch bolts set me back $390 Canadian).
I had to tap out at 2:49 when he said "un-loosening."
String Bean double negative lol
I think they 'misunderestimated' him
Alot of work. Ron Jeremy called, he wants his 80’s porn music back.😁
My man's just straight drilled the bolts in.... o.o
He's replacing an aftermarket bar. The front sway bar brackets on a stock setup don't just... come off
Nice video. A lot less cussing and crying than when I work on mine !
I know that it is recommended to replace the subframe bolts each time you drop them. Do you have the part numbers for all the bolts I have to replace? I have a 2012 MK6 Jetta GLI
The job looks relatively straight forward with the right tools and equipment. I'm concerned about the alignment of the subframe after dropping it and reinstalling it though. I've been told that if you don't get the alignment of the subframe right, it can put the whole front end out of whack. Can you please describe how you managed to keep the alignment correct? Also, does the procedure differ much for a Golf R? That's the vehicle I'll be working on.
on right hand drive cars you'll need to undo the 3 bolts that secure th steering rack, you'll also find a small wire harness on the left hand side (10mm bolt) support the subframe as you loosen remove the additional bolts. now lower the subframe and you'll find you have plenty of room. job done. Sup.
Thanks for posting this 5 years ago! I was halfway through this today on my drive getting nowhere then read your comment which allowed me to get it free. Still quite tedious on a driveway.
Looks like the front sway bar install/removal is pain in the ass. Even more so in your driveway on your back
Your replacement rear sway bar is 23 mm. Just wondering if this is a significant upgrade from the stock MKV size?
Get new rear droplinks too. If your car has ever been near a puddle, I don't think it will be possible to remove them without rounding off the M6 triple square.
It looks like if you had the struts removed, aka lowering the car, that you could snake the bar through one side. Has anyone tried this before?
edit. support the subframe as you loosen and remove the additional bolts.
wasnt able to get the brackets off the stock bar so I ended up having to disconnect the a arm from the lower ball joint
Really helpful video thank you 👍
I wanna do just the bushings on my 2014 Jetta. Just did the end links and figure might as well get the bushings done since they seemed easy to get to. Keyword seemed....
Does it matter using ramps or stands (dropping suspension) ?
Did I just see you cross thread the bolt on 08:28? You should always hand screw the bolts and THEN hit it with the gun snuggly then use a TORQUE WRENCH and torque to specs. Advice from a experienced Technician.
I was thinking the same thing, didn't look like it went in very easy
Annndddd I won't be changing my sway bars...
does the car have to be on the weight of its wheels for this procedure ? like ramps for the rear ? and what about the front, if i get my jetta up on ramps at the front can i install it ? just curious cuz i tried the rear on stands and couldnt even get the sway link end out of the bar.... so i just tightened it back up, will ramps solve my problem?
Well done.
Can i just remove bushes ? At the min 1.25 those are the bushes bolts ? Thank you !
-do I need to do all this to replace the front sway bar bushing on a golf 5 1.9 bkc?
-for this model the front sway bar bushing have unremovable brackets with a rivet? if so, what is the bolt that I use after?
-on the lift, how to raise the suspension to the unladen position without VW tools? and how its done?
Does the subframe need to be dropped to changed the bushings alone?
For install the front bar in the S3 8P is the same job? Or it is different because there is the quattro system?
Do the stock sway bar on MK6 have unremovable brackets? :D
On the front sway bar.
Would I have to unbolt the end links to re-lube/replace the front sway bar bushings?
and he had time to get a hair cut in the middle of this he is awesome lol p.s. great videos guys keep it up just one thing more vids on mkiv
I'll be ordering this kit on Monday. Does ECS also offer an upgrade for the rear sway bar end links?
***** I checked this item number and it's the rear sway bar, not the end links.
ECS, could you (or anyone else with first hand experience) comment on any major differences to be aware of when doing this job on a mk7? I've found very few resources for the 7th gen. Thanks!
So does the sway bar go under the drive shaft ?
Does this go for 2013 GLI as well?
Hi, I have VW CC 2011. Is it possible to replace the front sway bar bushings after removing the first 4 bolts for the sway bar, with out lowering the sub frame and all ?
i. cut the sway bar bushings out to put the new ones in.
hello, which is the wrench that u are using here? 12:08
So a higher mm means tighter turning? What is the difrence between a 26mm and 28mm front swaybar?
The size has little to do with the effectiveness of a swaybar. It’s about the construction and stiffness of the material. Ofcourse the bigger size means u usually have a different bar but it’s kind of like a taller object doesn’t ALWAYS mean u have a higher center of gravity than a shorter object
are you kidding me. I was trying to remove the links and it was giving me a f'ing hard time when I'm removing it from the floor. I wish I had a lift
Going through that right Now, Although I have stock sway bars...as the video shows aftermarket...yea not an easy task...any tips would be appreciated right I'm having trouble removing SWayB with its stock bushing and bracket so yea if you can provide any tips it would be greatly appreciated
Steering pinion should be removed on the driver side drop the whole subframe for like 10 cm and than remove the whole sway bar, drill out a bit of the sway bar brackets and place new bushings... Am also having a headache doing this I'll have to get the whole thing out. Luckily I work at a VW dealer
Replace the old haggard Rear Endlinks with your new Sway bar... Fail.
What's the torque spec for the M10 triple squares on the rear sway bar?
You could literally insert the commentary and music into a porno lol
Hi ESC team.
Winter is comming and my front sway start to sound like an old truck.
I have a jetta mkv 2010 2.5 lts and a Passat b7 2.5 lts, both are the same infraestructure. In both cars I have the same issue every winter I have squealing like old truck in the front sway bar. It is possible only to change the bushing or how can I fix this noisy issue.
I think one option is change the front sway bar, other is only to change bushing that makes tgose horrible noises. I hope you can help me or give me some dirrections to solve it.
Thanks
I know for sure this isn't that easy on a 2005.5 vw jetta 2'5 mk5 since the sway bar bushings are nut removable
***** is there a considerable difference between the mk4 assembly and this video?
+Cmueda You do not have to remove a front subframe from Mk4 to install. So, easier than this
This video is highly deceptive the models of cars vary greatly when it comes to the sway bars some have removable sway bar bushing brackets where they split in two but not on any model less than a gti or gli .if you own anything less you are in for a fight ,to get it out with the brackets on you will have to loosen a small ten bolt holding the servotronic steering harness on the driver side on the upper subframe .also you can't change damaged bushings or upgrade them because the idiots made them unserviceable must discard sway bar and bushings or modify the brackets by cutting off the captured nuts and putting your own.you must make a large opening between the subframe and chassis to get it out .they must let you know the difference on models before you buy and end up in deep trouble. The new vw/audi subframe set ups are complete failures in engineering.
Curious which version my 2014 1.8TSI Jetta has... changing my end links in hopes it’s what’s causing this clunk I’m getting (both left and right side so I’m assuming it’s not control arm related and hoping it’s just the end links)
Went into this job thinking the bushing housing came apart on the stock sway bar. Looks like I'm not doing this job. If the stock bushing housing came apart this would be a half hour job.
So do I have to play 70’s porn music when I do this job or is it optional? Haha
How do I take off the stock sway bar brackets for my mk6 Jetta?? They are metal and I can't figure it out.
Did you figure it out? I'm going through it now any any help I would truly appreciate it
@@MrJag83aa any chance you figured it out? I have a 13 - Jetta.
Rad
Stock swaybar is red.....
Lol
Do you guys have a video of how to change the tail lights and front headlights of the GTI? I have a 2013 GTI and I`m planning on changing the tail lights and front headlights.
I guess you can’t DIY this at home unless you own a lift!
you using the torque wrench wrong. one click then stop!
@davidtellez89 ummm edited out maybe? LOL
I love the porn music
8:25 he is doing a big mistake...
why? what is he doing wrong?
maybe wear some gloves or something
cant believe you are allowed to add videos which could cause death and or injury Seriously need to find a mechanic
unloosening FFS !