First Major Challenge CONQUERED! Taming our 6x6 Ex-Military Truck - Sound Deadening (Week 7 & 8)
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- čas přidán 1. 05. 2024
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Volvo TGB 13
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Mate Well fucking done on them brakes. So Happy for you guys. Love the long Video's , set up me popcorn and tea/lunch and settle in.
Maybe have a 2nd YT channel for your B roll. Just a thought.
The old insulation ind the cab is to insulated from the heat, it is a sauna inside the cab, and usually you will have your windows open already when its 15c outside. The coolant connections on the outside is for a engine heater called "Motorvärmare 271". It uses a kerosene blowtorch to heat and there is a small pump in the car with a switch, to circulate the coolant. Even at -35°C the car will start if its preheated. Same heater was used on every thing from military farm tractors to tracked vehicles like Bandvagn 202 & 206 and other vehicles
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great to see you with smiles on your faces, full steam ahead.
Cheers
Ian
Thank you so much Ian for watching and commenting every week, your support is much appreciated!
Ange i really enjoy the longer episodes.
The amount of effort that is going into this build i believe that less time wouldnt be doing this work justice.
Dont forget, if people cant watch the epp in one go, it can always be paused and kick off when you have the time.
Ok Chris, total outside of the box suggestion; what about doing a roof lift - similar to what people do to their Mogs?
This would obviously give you more headroom when driving as well as the added benifit of more spafe in the back.
That is great to hear, thank you so much Lee for the nice feedback :)
Chris considered the roof lift idea, it would be great for the cab! It would mean we would have to do it for the entire length though so maybe too big of a job? Something to consider for sure and have a think about! Thanks for watching!
Great job!!! The hard stop, and yell was the best.....
Wow 🎉🎉🎉congratulations finally brakes are perfect 👌thank God overseas an Aussie had a good idea and a South Australian too 😀 👍👍
Thanks a lot David for commenting and watching every week, your support is much appreciated :)
On the point of what to put on the interior door cards, I’ve done a few van conversions and I always use hard wood ply for the panels.
Then I use 10mm foam carpet underlay to glue on top. It comes on a roll and 1 roll will be enough to do most of your build if not all of it.
I cut foam pieces the same as the ply panels and then cover them in whatever material I like. Just regular material or some type of vinyl if you want it to wipe down easier.
Once the foam is covered i then use high temp spray adhesive to glue it to the ply panel. I don’t glue the edge CM so I can still get to the ply screws by just pulling the edge back a little.
Not only does this set up allow for easy removal for access and cleaning but it insulates, sound deadens and gives you a soft surface so it doesn’t hurt when you knock your elbow or head.
Depending on the cover material too it helps absorb moisture overnight onto the material fibres and then it evaporates during the warmer day with doors and windows open so less damp.
I use these panels all over my vans on the inside so I can change the look of the inside completely for very little cost.
You guys rock! So glad you figured the brakes out! These struggles are good to go through 😅. God bless
Don't tell us about it! Once we have the vehicle registered and the visa, nothing can't stop us 🤞🙌
Great to see you are making progress, and yes we all have our ups and downs, it's life. :) :)
Watching this on Fri 3rd, hoping MOT / certification goes OK.....
🤞🤞🤞
Congrats on the win! Onwards and upwards
Thanks a lot Nathan for watching and commenting! We can't wait to be sharing more about exciting projects :)
The length of the videos is fine! It is a lot of work to show. Keep up the good work! Thanks for sharing.
Chris why not replace the peg-board panels with some kind of Swedish wood 🪵. It would look good and add to the sound deadening.
Cheers from Miami🇺🇸
When sound deadening pay attention to every little gap and hole. It's amazing how much noise even a tiny hole will let through. Butyl mastic works great for sealing gaps and holes.
That's a good advice, thank you!
If you can source it, highly recommend mass loaded vinyl to reduce in-cabin noise.
On my Defender, dynalite and dynaliner on the roof made an incredible difference to both sound and temperature. Dynaextreme on the floors internally and spray on Lizard skin externally in the wheel wells. Brilliant stuff.
Good to hear it made a big difference! We used similar products in our Unimog and were pleased with the results too :)
Music selection is always on point in every video.
That's probably the hardest part of the editing process so thanks a lot for the nice compliment :)
I used lead free flashing tape for sound deadening and only covered about 20% of the big panels . It worked very well and cost about 30 quid for a mwb Ducato van.
Enjoying your build video really like the detail that you go into. I could really feel the pain you were going through with those brakes! I have been doing my own vehicle repairs since I was 15 years old I'm now 76 and after watching your videos it makes me want to do another vehicle restoration hopefully my dream vehicle a 56 Ford pickup.
Love your channel! Keep it up!
Thanks a lot Adam for following along!
Well done for sticking with it. This hard work will pay dividends in the future when your on the road. Looking forward to finding out what engine gearbox combo your going for.
Thank you so much Toby for following along! Chris is looking at the "new" transmission as we speak :)
Chris It’s great the brake system has been dealt with! Hope all goes well with inspection. Ange you saved the day 😊 happy you and Oakley are back 🙌💛💛💛
Thank you Marcia for always writting such nice comments :)
@@TheOutFit ☺️😘😘😘
Hammering steel agains steel without glasses is a fast way to blind. Nice video, hope inspection go well.
Building material in Malmö:
Bauhaus
Hornbach
Optimera
Beijer (expensive/good quality)
Woody
Byggmax (cheep/low quality)
The door and roofpanel is called ”perforerad board” or ”masonit” but masonit can be oil treated for outdoor use and missing the holes.
Thanks a lot for that, very helpful!
From great adversity comes great victory. Embrace the struggle and nothing will stop you .
Thank you so much for the encouragement!
I am happy to see you have finished the brake system of 6x6 Cheers
Thanks a lot Michael for watching every week, it means a lot :)
Loving content mate!! Doing great 🙌🏾
Thanks for watching and commenting Duncan, much appreciated!
That was a great episode. Good to see you got things sorted out. Just remember that seat belts have two locks, one is a velocity lock in case of a crash, the other is an angular lock in case of a roll over, the seat belt fitting needs to be vertical for it to release. Good job, keep them coming.
Thanks a lot for watching Francois, glad to hear you enjoyed the episode :)
Excellent going !! By the way, I think I can now also bleed a 304's brakes .. .. .. blindfolded !! ha ha ha ha ha. All success with the test and stay strong. Best.
well done on getting those brakes to work
Thank you so much Craig for watching!
56:57 well-done Ang and Chris ,,Oakley yeah 👋🤠👍
that little heater is usually tee'd off from the engine coolant so leaving one pipe open will let coolant escape, just join it to the other one and loop it till you get something better.
for the heavy steering, free arm work out!! or look i to corsa C i think it was they had electric power steering which used a motor inline with the steering column. and you could even have it hooked uo so it was speed sensitive. there are kits based on that steering motor. might need a bit of custom weork to make it fit right, but easier than trying to fine a power rack and fit that
Loving this build ... Seeing it evolve from scratch I find very interesting and now brakes sorted will make rest of the build a bit more enjoyable perhaps ... Your back will be thankful !!!!!
Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment every week :) it's really nice to hear you enjoy the build series!
I started with that Butyl stuff,but it didn't cut out much sound at all, so I added 3 layers of sound barrier over it. Now when I'm inside, the noise is 80% less,when I open the side door,it's like someone turned on a speaker.
Money is only money! Life is short so enjoy every moment and just live and enjoy your journey; all the best fletch from the UK Mansfield
Great reminder! Thank you so much for watching and following along from the UK :)
the smaller older "valp" 9033 with metal body could actually tip over forward if hitting the brakes hard on tarmac. Tried it and yes rear end lifted qiute a bit but then released the brakes before somthing really bad happend.
Im happy i found your channel. I love you guys. Glad to see that you are in sweden working on one of our beasts. subs up. Best regards Isak
Greetings from Stockholm! Nice to follow along the build. Ps, you should change the system frequency of your camera from 60hz to 50hz, the lights will stop flicker in the videos :) Keep up the good work!
Hey Guys, great Vid as always... regarding the paneling on the doors...aluminium sheets...strong, easy to paint or cover with some "leather" and you can also mount stuff to it...win win
Definitely a good option, lightweight too!
The sense of relief when the nose dipped and the tires squealed was huge. NO Brake lights though !🎉😂 CHEERS Steve h.
good see you get the truck built and work on it keep up the good vids and work on the build
Thanks a lot for following along!
Awesome work on the brakes. Enjoying the build.
But you gotta sort those lines out. Looks like a dogs breakfast and a great fail point off road. Hit corrugations and they will shake and rub. Imagine how you felt in bowser on corrugations. Those lines will feel the same.
That was some brake job though, I wouldn't have survived that .... :)
In relation to the perforated Masonite panels, how about covering the exposed side with the thin insulation fibre mats and then upholster them with a material similar to your intended trimming/lining. If you are concerned about having screws etc showing when fixing the panels back on the doors, what about using the “Christmas Tree” style upholstery pins set in holes in the Masonite lining up with the fixing screw holes
He is a happy, happy overlander.
Nice to see you again! Nice work with the car and video.
About the interior; I think you can use hardboard, maybe even some of the original ones. Put a thin layer of foam on the outside and dress the panel with vinyl. You can even put an extra layer of sound insolation on the inside where there is room without building any thickness.
About your videos; no complaining, but I think the viewers would appreciate if the videos was a litle bit shorter and came out a litle more often. Keep up your great work.
About the cabine heaters; don't throw those away, they are higly effective and ha a place at the market of used parts. During my service in the army we droved the open top version of the TGB 11 during winter time depending on those heaters and it worked very well.
3:53 padded 6 mm ply mate ,light and cheep
You can sound proof with thick rust/stone protection spraying under the body....
And you can do it yourself..by all you need at Biltema.....🎉
Thank you so much for watching, commenting and for the extra support!
Hey guys, when I reworked my 95 Commodore wagon internals where the roof was fabric covered moulded cardboard, I first glued a layer of yoga mat to the metal, then covered all that with a 5mm layer of a high density foam and over that glued grey boat deck carpet. Great heat and sound insulation. I also lined the outer door panels with buytl/aluminium plumbing flashing. Doors now transmit little noise. Sound level inside is now similar to my kids' 21st century cars. Goodluck.
I believe that the heater system is connected to the cooling “water” jacket of the engine and that the heated coolant will not flow through the heat exchanger until you move the heater slides on the dash, which will open the valve/tap into the heat exchanger and the fan will push air through the heat exchanger and into the cabin. There may be 2 controls for each heater, the slide to allow heated coolant into the heat exchanger and then back to the engine. The other is the switch for the fan.
The 2 connectors you pointed out are likely to be for a system to maintain heated coolant to flow through the water jacket in winter conditions to prevent engine lubricants from becoming too viscous and stop issues with cold starts. It also means in combat situations the vehicles can be driven at full operational speed at start up rather than wait for the engine to warm up. Less wear and fare on the engine in cold climates.
Bottom line. The heaters do not get hot until you operate the heater controls allowing the heated coolant into the heaters.
It could also be for the ambulance version that has extensive heating in the rear.
So Im just starting a Van build and am planning to use a glueon (contact spray glue) trim carpet on all the areas that will be bare steel or areas that look unfinished. Theres a good range of colours available.
Your doors and that area with the pegboard type lining would look good and be warm with a glueon style trim finish...maybe in a light colour to brighten up the interior 😊
It's Friday, May 3 as this drops. Wonder how the inspection went! Fingers crossed that it went well!
Lets go!
Reacted to some things you said earlier about the bushings for the axles and also the rear leaf springs. If i were you dont put in the Tgb20 leafs. I have a close friend who has a 13 with 1 leaf removed so only 2. He can load up to 1ton before it sags noticeably so i doubt you will find that a Tgb13 with 3 leafs is too soft, i have a Relatively original Tgb20 myself and i can tell from experience even with a heavier frame and a much heavier troop transport bed it is still quite stiff.
On the bushings im not sure if you put it original bushings or what you did, but the axles are supposed to move quite alot, more then the untrained eye might think from side to side, it looks funky to say the least. So i wouldn't worry much about it if i were you.
Other then that the best thing for comfort you can do is put in helper spiralsprings instead of the rubber "stops/helpsprings" in the front. You get a stiffer less body roll in the front but a much more gentle and progressive bumpstop and general suspension travel, and it help unload those already tired front leafsprings, best thing i ever did to my Tgb besides the diesel engine! Good luck and hope this text wasnt too much of a mess to sift through!
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience/knowledge, much appreciated coming from a TGB owner :)
Which engine did you put in your TGB20?
@@TheOutFit izusu 4jg2t
3.1L inline4 matched with the stock transmission. Without a doubt the easiest engine to put in the truck.
A bit bigger turbo and front mounted intercooler, and small fuel adjustments to get the new turbo to spool nice and early
Those inline fuel filters are great easy to change and you get more life out of the main fuel filter so change on a regular basis
great job! for the noise insulation I used BITUSTICK, a roofing material, and there's no difference with the dynamat, apart that it costs like 10 times less because it's not marketed as "automotive stuff"
Mate, those brake lines are a disaster. They need to be secured so they can’t move or rub. They WILL fail if they are left like that and aren’t secured properly. I love that you’re having a crack, but brakes aren’t something you “have a crack” with. I think you should really consider getting some professional help with that part of the build.
100% They will rub and leak. Please have these redone by a professional
All brake lines have been secured, all sorted 👍
Wide Evode Flashband works the same way but is only 6” wide BUT A LOT cheaper.
i did my caravan panels with plastic checker plate it comes in black red white and crome looks ok
I'm fairly sure carbuilders do a self adhesive clouth covered foam ,ideal for roof lining and a bit more sound proofing.
Hope you guys get to enjoy some of the swedish spring (finally) between the sessions! ☀
It's been so nice this past week! We went to Kalmar and had a great little break :)
Fantastic effort with the brakes, such a sense of achievement. Have you thought about marine carpet or vinyl for the hood n door linings?? Carpet will be additional sound deadening
You need foam on top of the dynamat to properly dampen sound. The third esp on the floor is using massloaded vinyl. Nice progress :)
Biltema has a lot of that stuff for cheap.
We haven't finished the whole Dynamat process, we still have to use the Dynacore and Dynaliner :)
@@TheOutFit Ahh Nice :) A lot of YT that do soundinsulating just do the first layer which only is part of the solution so that is why I commented. DynaCore looks very good.
Look up 4 way stretch van liner material. It is very easy to use and can be applied directly to metal panel, sound deadening, insulation or ply panels. Think it'll really work with your application. Some good videos on CZcams on how to apply and supplied on eBay with high temp spray on contact adhesive. Great videos and best of luck.
What?.No machine gun on the roof???😮😢😂❤
Hi again Chris
The corflute comes in quite a few different profiles looks to me that you should be able to get one that's the same thickness of the panel's you have removed.
Happy hunting, gee little fella growing so fast, where does time go, my 2 are 16 n 19 seems like yesterday they were babies lol.
For your headroom issue. I would dynamat all the spaces and make it flush with the beams then glue a headliner material to that. That way you don’t have your headroom reduced by adding plywood
So, getting it through the inspection... I hope you get a good positive person doing the inspection, if you get the wrong guy, they will 100% not get you through. For reference, the way it works in Sweden, if there is paperwork for a feature on the vehicle, lets say it says it has a gun mount, if the gun mount isn't there, and isn't working, they can fail your inspection. (This was just an example). So even things that aren't critical to the function of the vehicle can get you a failed inspection.
For interior panels, you might look at 1/4" thick (not sure on mm size) of ABS plastic sheet for the ceiling or door panels. You can cover it with carpet or something and the nice thing, it won't rot or hold water. You can even use a heat gun to mold it some.
Re the door cards - you could opt for replacing with the same stuff. Should be available at Bauhaus - called ”board” or ”fiberboard”. A sheet of 120cm x 244cm is between 150-300 SEK - comes in 3mm, 6mm and perforated.
If it was me I'd get a sheet of marine ply to replace that perforated board in the doors. It would also add further sound proofing. It could also be stained to whatever colour you desire.
Good to hear the brakes are sorted, I mentioned a couple of weeks ago to isolate the system to fault find the issue.
As for episode length, almost an hour is a long episode, would it be better to halve it and upload twice a week. This would give you greater interaction with your audience.
Sorry we missed your comment, that was definitely a great idea!
While I would prefer to halve the episodes there are a few reasons why we aren't :
- It means taking an extra thumbnail and writing an extra title - this is actually quite a "hard" process as it needs to be catchy for subscribers and non-subscribers to click on (therefore impact our Impressions click-through rate)
- Our Average view duration (one of the most important CZcams analytics) is actually much higher on long format than shorter format - therefore CZcams pushes our content to a broader audience and new viewers
But we can always change it up and see how the algorithm reacts - CZcams is unpredictable!
It may be a little late, but a product called Lizardskin could be useful for sound deadening and as a thermal installation. Maybe for the next project.
Oh when you’re searching for next project, I’ll through in an idea: The Family of Medium Tactical Vehicles (FMTV) are a series of military vehicles from the USA military.
Cheers and best wishes on your journey.
Love that Ange's english got a bunch more 'french' after a quick trip :P About the build: I'm sure you're on top of it, and I know Sweden is easier on all car regulations stuff than over here, but in Finland when you do a sort of "museum registration" on old cars, which means you don't have to inspect them very often and stuff like that they are REALLY particular about the vehicle being really original, so I get nervous every time you remove a piece of original equipment. Also make sure the seat situation won't require you to produce a crash test report and manufacturer's report for the home-made rails :P
Careful with that remove radiator . It may be needed in some situations...
High altitude desert winter is one ...
Congrats on the brakes!
About your roof liner and head room, what about just doing the same as you did with the hatch? If it ends up level with bars, put some thin carpet over it?
Seatbeltrollers are leaning sensitive, there is a standing weight inside the plastic cap that puts a lever agaist a one way cog. Having it in it's right angle should relieve the lever from the cog, but overentusiast passengers that janks the belt often makes the lever bend closer towards the cog and thus makes it even harder to pull out the belt. I have way back been able to gently straighten the lever and make it work as it should, lock when the vehicle is forced to some side or in a crasch, but still letting users pull it out when fastening it!
Hi guys, regarding the door panels and roof linings 😊I have used thin plywood or hardboard then glued a coloured felt which comes in different thicknesses. Regarding plywood Marine or standard there isn’t that much difference in price for a small amount. The coloured felt is so easy to stick and fit. Kings use it on all there draw systems🥴🥴. Regarding your breaks now being a bit spongy after a test run now do a final bleed and should be good. Jon 🇦🇺WA Good luck guys
@TheOutFit I too would go with Marine plywood and a marine carpet glued on top to that, that is what i did on my old 88" Landrover. Worked super. and you could also add some "blue insulation board" between the plywood and the Dynamat. For the floor, i would go with some "tractor rubber mats" sheets that can be cut to fit and is easy to clean. :-)
Cover the inside of the doors with black marine carpet the kind you would get at Bunnings.
Well done with the brakes I think. Hope I haven't jinxed it now. Just had a day on an infuriating project myself, me mums 2 wheel barrow tyres to change for new ones and tubes. First one swap tubeless for tubular yeah extract valve by cutting, job done. second one seized square nuts whoopee, part cut to free up. hooray 2 hours later should have fetched grinder. swap tyres and tube, no pressure, try original tube no pressure. 4 holes in new tube, one hole in old tube. trip to halfords for bike repair kit. Anyway think its sorted with repairs. left to stand overnight before I bolt it back on the plastic bearings. May have put holes in myself but I am usually more careful than that oh well. feel better when its achieved on something bigger than a wheel barrow. Did get a new box for leisure battery and electrical lug clamps though. Wishing you well with build and documents. P.S did see Halfords doing 12v compresssor fridge freezer 40l 12 v around £239 not sure what postage maybe or available else where bought similar a couple of years ago by Vevor.
I'd plumb in a glind inline hot water heat exchanger that's used for hot water showers along with two stock taps or ball valves into the heater water line for the back that way with a insulated stainless water tank you can get warm water for up to 4 days after you park for showers or washing up or even heating. If you used hy😢dronic water hose just an idea for a multiple purpose warm water use or look into a UK product Mobil water heater that's a heat exchanger for hot water using a deisel heater but with them right hose and ball valve set up you would have hot water in hot or cold climates but it maybe too complicated for long term off road use and a lot of mucking around with valves etc but as I said it's a idea we' set up a daf van camper with a water tank made out of a stainless sink with pink batts around it worked great and its great to be in a van up in highlands in winter in Tasmania and gave a warm shower as it's too cold outside
If you take the roof bracket off, then where do you put your machine gun🤔
A KSP58 it should be.
I have stood in the roof hatch of the 6 wheel troop transport truck version with that machine gun more than a few times🙂
But seriously, the ammount of work and comittment you put in to this project is quite impressive.
I would not do it (and I do not have the knowledge) so I am impressed.
I just bought a coolant heater for my C303. It uses a blow torch and external radiator to heat the truck to start in extremely cold temperatures. Great video that will help me in mine too! Would you sell the machine gun mount ? I need one. lol.
Heermoso hijo vuestro , con la cara del padre y los ojos hermosos de la madre.....Bendiciones.....!!!!
what about carpeted plywood to replace the old wooden door inserts? or powdercoated aluminium panels?
Builders form board ply is cheap for the door panels much cheaper than marine ply about the same thickness , they use it for form work when pouring concrete to make shapes and straight runs , find off cuts or left overs 🤔 probably get it for free look out for guys concreting foot paths or building sites , just an idea because it goes in skip bin so ya recycling ♻️
Use plastic shower walls for the ceiling it is light weight and white in colour and flexible
28:24 brake bias valve like I said last episode mate
The video did not show the difference with the sound deadening near as much as it is in real life. Did my van with a similar product and it was AMAZING the difference!!
I also used a really nice low pile carpet on the inside to line the walls and ceiling and it stops most of the rattling noises from echoing.
Is there a way to get an aftermarket power steering system ? good job with those breaks it sounds like it almost broke you but you have persistence and patience. Keep up the good work, from now on i think it will all come together really quickly. all the best and take care
On the roof, near the roofhatch, you have some smaal brackets. they are the mounting point for a AAmachingun.
Can that be sensitive if you pass the border into some countries?
Hi Chris
How would corflute sheets go for door panels, light weight, different colors or paint it also slight sound deadening properties, reasonable prices, can get at Bunnings in Aust
Good luck mate
Love ya show watch every New series Keep up the great work and have a lovely time all of ya 😎
Don't forget.... these carbs needs oil!
Check the carburetor oil if the the motor hasn’t run I a long long while the the oil level gets low when the mambrains start move and it runs very ruff and you have add a couple of times
Have been driving a TGB 20 for many years (20) in the 🇸🇪 Home gard
Wow, since when does a carburetor have oil?.
@@magicalvortex SU Carbs use oil filled pots as a kind of damper for the accelerator pump. Volvo had them, MG had them and Mercedes had them.
@@admiralfloofz658 Thanks for that, I didn't know, that's really interesting.
Hello from NYC, going thru our own built and challenges, I love your truck, respect the work you both put in. However, I want to address the big gigantic pink elephant in the room hahaha, THE BRAKE LINES, you CANNOT leave them as they are, it’s a complete mess, they need to be done (re-done) properly, secured and shaped perfectly, take a breath, do some yoga, become one with the universe hahaha and tackle it, yeah it’s annoying, and frustrating , but must be done. As they will rub and fatigue, causing failure. Not if but when they do. Good luck, and we enjoy your videos. Good luck.
Power steering seems like a good idea but make sure it doesn’t make it scary to drive on roads.
Driving a Tgb11,13,20 at 80km/h would be really scary if the steering was really light, at least with my experience with these vehicles
I've got speed sensitive electric power steering from a Vauxhall Corsa, fitted to my 88 VW t25. Works brilliantly.
Checker plate instead of the wood
👍👍👍
dude, 4 words, "right tool, right job"!
German saying " can't shift it with a spanner, hit it with a hammer 😉 or as Confucius would say " bad workman allways blames his tools" 🙈🙊🙉🤣
The Russians just hit the dashboard give it a good thump it worked on the space shuttle in Armageddon @@Wrong-Way-Round
Well practiced 'old school ' methods 🤣😂
Maybe cover the inside of the door with wood or veneer