Per code, cable jacket must extend through and 1/2" beyond connector/strain relief device. In many jurisdictions nowadays, it's a violation to install ANY new 3-prong range receptacle, regardless of the state of the house wiring; in that case, the right (and legal) thing to do is to upgrade the entire circuit to 4-wire, i.e. with dedicated ground. This will allow (require) a different 4-prong plug and matching receptacle. Replacing a long run of 8/3 or 6/3 cable is expensive; a cheaper (in materials and labor) alternative would be to run a dedicated ground directly (unspliced) to the service panel (e.g. awg 8 bare copper). And in case you need to get the range as close as possible to the wall, consider a flush-mounted receptacle; it's more work, but it might allow the range to sit 1"-2" closer to the wall.
Thanks for comment. I can't afford to spend $400 plus for fifty plus feet of 6 gauge 50amp line. So I understand, your alternative is to run a ground 6gauge or 8gauge from panel to junction box? Thank you
Three prong is fine, around here. My buddy is an electrician, so all of his new construction is 4 prong, but the older houses still have the 3 prong setup. And, you can still get the outlets; I just bought one, today. I'm not going to concern myself with upgrading to 4 prong. I'm not pulling any permits to replace an outlet, or inviting a bureaucrat to come look it over, when I'm done. It's been a 3 prong deal, since electricity was added to the house, decades ago, and it's been fine. The only change I plan on making, is putting the new outlet on the wall, as opposed to the old outlets current position on the floor.
Only concern I have is Romex should always be in the box ever so slightly and needs to be what the clamp hits. Also it's best to upgrade to 4 wire plugs.
@@dawnsavasta8251 Ok..I looked it up....if you're going to use a plug on the stove you you need to look up how to wire a 4 wire plug to the stove and then yu need a 4 wire recepticle to plug into...the bare ground wire goes to the bottom of the recepticle. I wired mine up like that and it worked out fine. My stove was wired directly with no plug. The bare copper wire was attached to the screw on the stove where the green wire from the plug goes. czcams.com/video/H6uExmGPPwc/video.html
As @vyger stated ground/neutral wire goes to lower terminal on 3 wire supply. The grounds and neutrals are tied together at breaker panel. However you do not "need" a 4 wire plug as you only have 3 wires coming from breaker.
I would have been more inclined remove the knockout on the back, instead of the side. That way, the hole in the wall, from which the wire protrudes, could have been masked with the outlet. Alternatively, a cut in box and a flush outlet could have been used. Either way, a more professional appearance would have been achieved.
watched 4 videos on how to hook this up to the outlet and none of them showed exactly how to do it. thank you!
no problem! glad we could help.
Per code, cable jacket must extend through and 1/2" beyond connector/strain relief device. In many jurisdictions nowadays, it's a violation to install ANY new 3-prong range receptacle, regardless of the state of the house wiring; in that case, the right (and legal) thing to do is to upgrade the entire circuit to 4-wire, i.e. with dedicated ground. This will allow (require) a different 4-prong plug and matching receptacle. Replacing a long run of 8/3 or 6/3 cable is expensive; a cheaper (in materials and labor) alternative would be to run a dedicated ground directly (unspliced) to the service panel (e.g. awg 8 bare copper). And in case you need to get the range as close as possible to the wall, consider a flush-mounted receptacle; it's more work, but it might allow the range to sit 1"-2" closer to the wall.
Thanks for comment. I can't afford to spend $400 plus for fifty plus feet of 6 gauge 50amp line. So I understand, your alternative is to run a ground 6gauge or 8gauge from panel to junction box? Thank you
Three prong is fine, around here. My buddy is an electrician, so all of his new construction is 4 prong, but the older houses still have the 3 prong setup. And, you can still get the outlets; I just bought one, today.
I'm not going to concern myself with upgrading to 4 prong. I'm not pulling any permits to replace an outlet, or inviting a bureaucrat to come look it over, when I'm done. It's been a 3 prong deal, since electricity was added to the house, decades ago, and it's been fine. The only change I plan on making, is putting the new outlet on the wall, as opposed to the old outlets current position on the floor.
One of the better videos, Thanks
Wow, thanks!
Only concern I have is Romex should always be in the box ever so slightly and needs to be what the clamp hits. Also it's best to upgrade to 4 wire plugs.
what if you also have a bare copper ground wire ?
I have the same issue
@@dawnsavasta8251 Ok..I looked it up....if you're going to use a plug on the stove you you need to look up how to wire a 4 wire plug to the stove and then yu need a 4 wire recepticle to plug into...the bare ground wire goes to the bottom of the recepticle. I wired mine up like that and it worked out fine. My stove was wired directly with no plug. The bare copper wire was attached to the screw on the stove where the green wire from the plug goes. czcams.com/video/H6uExmGPPwc/video.html
As @vyger stated ground/neutral wire goes to lower terminal on 3 wire supply. The grounds and neutrals are tied together at breaker panel. However you do not "need" a 4 wire plug as you only have 3 wires coming from breaker.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great video. Thanks
I would have been more inclined remove the knockout on the back, instead of the side. That way, the hole in the wall, from which the wire protrudes, could have been masked with the outlet. Alternatively, a cut in box and a flush outlet could have been used. Either way, a more professional appearance would have been achieved.
Does the cord outside wall meet the code?