3018 PRO - Control Boards
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
- Quick video talking through how to change a control board and what to physically look out for when comparing different boards.
Link to the Sainsmart 3018PRO
shrsl.com/2i8nz
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Thank you so much!!! Came here after completing your [the most complete!] assembly video. I couldn't figure out where to connect my Z-axis calibration probe to in my Woodpecker board. You said it: port "A5" - thank you thank you thank you. Just in case anyone is wondering I had to cut off the stock white connector and stick each wire into two black pin headers (now they look similar to yours at 5 minutes 52 seconds mark)
Thank you, your the only helpful video I could find and well done too!
Stoked that the 3018 I just bought comes with the new board. 👍
Here's something you might want to add. The original controller board is mounted on the aluminum frame. It is essentially grounded (earth). When you relocate the board on the wood cabinet, you un-ground the control board. The vacuum cleaner you use on the waste board creates lots of static electricity and when you touch the nozzle to the metal parts of the router, the induced signal "shocks" the controller board and it stops working. Often power cycling will clear the problem. Three weeks ago, my board died while I was vacuuming up dust. The new board was $38. I installed it AND added a ground wire from the metal frame to the new controller board. No problems to date.
That is very true about the static. I'm not entirely sure the connection to the frame is considered to be grounded though. Most people will sit these on a workbench or in an enclosure, may put felt pad underneath to dampen vibration etc. So there is no actual grounding, unless you go to the extent of separately grounding the frame. I'm not sure if I've ever mentioned it in my videos but I have mine grounded into the ring main. Goon info though 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns high volt ground and low volt ground need keep far not together newer. and power system wires and small volt data wires need be far too not newer near all different line wires,
Got an used 3018 pro...looks like the board was fried when I purchased it...which one did u get? comes w install instructions and driver uploads ?
I lost my Z bearings, too. Mcwdoit was the seller on Amazon. They are going to replace my control board and z-axis mechanism right away. Good folks.
The bearings on all axis are just pressed in, and under vibration they can come loose and pop out. I suggest popping them out, and then using a drop or two of CA glue and then pressing them back in. I did that, and have not had a problem since.
this is what im trying to do right now. i got a mysweetys 3018pro with a 7w laser about 2 an a half years ago an i used the spindle at first just to make sure it worked the way it was suppose to then swapped it out for the laser an thats what i ended up using the most but after switching back to the spindle i discovered the z axis had stopped moving, with the laser it never had to be moved cause it had a focusable lens so i always kept the z axis all the way up but im about 100% positive it was the z stepper driver that died so i put it up for a bit an after getting it back out i lost some parts so i ended up buying a extension kit to replace the missing leadscrew an extended it to a 3040 an i got a replacement control board, the one u put in urs in the video is just like what was in mine an was suppose to be like the one i purchased but when it came there was some small differences but nothing big, just changed the position of the power switch an reset buttons. after getting it all put together an try to connect to my laptop it seems to connect an i can give commands an seems like the board is responding but when i unlock an try to move a axis it doesnt do anything. suggestions on what i should do would be greatly appreciated, im trying to make sure the control boards is ok b4 time runs out for me to return it if it is bad. if anyone knows what im doing wrong pls point it out.
I understand the Woodpecker 3.4 has the 2209 drivers. One thing to be aware of is the end switches are labelled backwards for the X and Y axis.
Nope, not on my Woodpecker 3.4 and not on others I've been told about. I took the heatsink off mine to make sure, and the drivers are A4988s, which is what other people have reported as well. That's the same as the standard drivers on the CronosMaker and most other GRBL controllers, so the same current limits, microstepping options, noise levels, and voltage references. Mine were set to 600mV, so 800mA.
I'm pretty sure I have the same woodpecker board but also my machine was one of the ones that had the sides reversed which forced me to put the motor on the other side. X Y axis seems to be fine but I'm guessing the Z axis is off being that I go to cut and it goes above the material rather than into it. Also, the offline control board allows me to spin the bit while the PC programs act as though this button doesn't exist. It's a freaking headache.
Hi James been watching all of your videos could you tell me whereabouts on the board you wire app your 12-volt accessories and where from also have you got a video on it please
Thanks for the video James. I do have a question about the steppermotordrivers on your old board for example. I noticed that you can get manu different drivers online, what is ther main difference between them?
James...great vids mate...just one question, I have changed the controler now to a woodpecker.
Saw awhile back on one of your videos how to change the direction of X Y Z to correct direction.
Can you let me know what video that is please mate, for the life of me cant remember what video that was.
so on the board and so many I see the red laser output is pwm as opposed to ttl and yet most of the diode laser modules are ttl mine wont respond to this output on the board? Yet my laser three pin connection is clearly marked ttl while any boards I see the ttl output is two pin?
HELP!!! Motherboard is smoking at the x-axis connection.
Bought my CNC 3018Pro at husbands urging, excitement when it arrived, figured a few things out on my own then frustration set in. Found your channel about 6-8mos later and started watching videos and just took out machine excited to get going again today Jan 10 2022....You explain everything so well!
I wouldn't say I'm an artist but thinking I should go back to painting and sculpting by hand.
If you can provide some feedback and advise, I'm still excited about the prospect of turning my own designs out. Husband's a retired millwright and thinks its just so simple but I'm the computer geek (not really) but spent years in the print industry, just not in the design department.
There's my story....what do I do about my smoking x-axis connection on my motherboard?
James could you advise me , I’ve a Chinese 3040 cnc running Mach3 but want to change the board to run easel could you recommend a board for me .
Great videos
Hi James! Thank you for your video explanation.
I'm jean-yves from france. I'm an electronician.
I discover these systems and and yet saw many tutorials but none of them present wiring starting on board connectors, which should be the beginning i think.
I could find the type of dissipators to add to stepper motors drivers and many other devices but nothing really explain how to wire things clearly from the board(s) with repairs, etcetera...
Despite the fact that you have a boxing (which you could adapt one on the original board), i think the unique dissipator and the fact that stepmotors drivers are "screwed" on the mainboard is a programming obsolescence regression.
I even wonder if a simple arduino board with atmega328 in dil format mounted on a dil plugable support should not even be better.
I have another question: on my version (the default card) : the dril/mill moteur has a fixed speed thought each program interface ,
(grblcontrol, candle for example), and Grbl software permits its variation.
I'll such of all make drillings, and i want to preserve my bits and boards and for this respect the drilling speeds.
Is there a way to add this functionnality?
Thanks in advance.
What is the difference between the boards with 3 ports for 1 for x axis, y axis, and z axis, and the boards that have 4 ports, x, y, y, z? And can you do a video of upgrading power supplies?
Hi. How do I connect a Stop switch on the Woodpecker panel?
My 3018 machine have a problem it's not working the grbl control status. Port opened how can i fix it?
Mine came with the Woodpecker - May 2021.
Nice!!
Hello there, hope you are okay, i bought this machine just one week ago, and it worked just for one acrylic cut, the machine stopped on the meddle of the work, i restarted it, and it does not want to work anymore, am my board looks like the one in case, exactly the same. nothing is working anymore, but the board still goes on, software does not even recognize the machine anymore
I am building a cnc that uses NEMA 23 steppers. I want to use GBRL. Are there plug in drivers that can handle this MEMA 23? By the way after viewing almost all of the CNC sights I have found yours to be the best. Good work.
why old pre history GRBL ? if use nema 23 and cheap 10$ paraller port controller and DM860 stepper motor drivers have lot lot better can use pciE to LPT port card 6-9$ and use linuxcnc lot better and can build REAL cnc not only toy, this board not support big nema 23 motors, max current to motors have less 2Amp and motors need better DM556-860 drivers can use motors max volt and current. normal cnc need good 4-6A motors 3-8Nm torgue, less than 2Amp motors can use good only laser or 3D printer but not power use good cnc. and linuxcnc have TRUE REALTIME control, not worst mach3 windows shit base control what lost alltime lot steps. windows not have important REAL time controll, same GRBL shit.
Interesting, thank you for sharing James! Quick question; did you swap the perspex front on your enclosure for some safety-screening material? Does that coloured screen mean that you don't have to wear safety glasses when its closed and you're working on other things in the workshop? If so any tips on where to get such a screen material from? Thank you for your help as always! - Ashley Cawley.
I have 2 screens, one if is a fixed clear perspex, and the other is the orange laser shield which is removable. Got it from robosavy I think and yes it means I can leave the laser running whilst being in the workshop without needing to wear the glasses
First board the Cronos maker, have you or somebody, tried using the 48volt spindle output?
If so if there some settings to care about
if u board not handle highest spindle power need relay and own power to spindle and own power to board, if board use PWM not easy but id board use relay controll to spindle need only relay output connect biggest relay serial and then board relay controller external big relay who has connect own power to spindle.
I am trying to find the next video that explains how to reverse all the axis because that is what is going on with my machine after replacing the control broad
I have that same problem
Well I'm replacing a board that has usage of the three ports for the more powerful spindle where do I find that bored back cuz I can't figure out how to make that work with a 3018
Hi, I'm from Brazil, I really liked this board, I would like to know how to reset it. Thank you for your attention.
I have a problem with the woodpecker board with the Z axis limit switch circuit. If any switch is connected, it immediately throws a out of range limit error. I tried other known good switches (on other axis that work) with the same problem. I have messaged the seller and I'm waiting to see if they will replace the board.
I had a close look at the board and it appears there is a problem with one of the resisters not being soldered correctly.
Also the limit switch axis pins are labeled incorrectly. On the diagram is shows xxyyzz. In fact it is zzyyxx.
hey James I just upgraded my broad and my z is backware and I don't know where to go and switch it do you have a video showing how and any instructions that would help me switch
When you say backwards I'm guessing you mean up makes it go down? If so and all the other axis are correct then change you $3 setting. Start by trying $3=4
Have recently replaced my board with one from SainSmart. Everything working fine but today I connected to my laptop and connected to UGS and it connected and jog controls appeared. But trying to move either XY or Z stepper motors just buzz but do not turn. Disconnected lead screws to relieve any load but still no movement. Check PSU output and fine at 24v. Fitted another board but still the same. Any ideas as I am stumped. Thanks .
That does sound strange. You've already covered most of the things I would suggest trying. Off the top of my head the only other things to suggest are check all cables are connected correctly at both ends. Perhaps try different software like Candle
Thanks James your videos are very informative, I have swapped my original control board for a condo maker and I have a problem with the Z axis not functioning. I'm a newbie with the 3018 so it maybe something that I am not doing correctly or a setting that may need changed. Can you please enlighten me to what it maybe. Jim S
Hi Jim,
You need to do some testing and figure out where the fault is. For example connect the X axis cable to the Z axis and see if that works. Then connect the Z cable to the X motor and see if that works. It will help eliminate whether it's it's motor, the cable or the control board
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks again James, will give that a go. 👍
Update: I swapped the Z and Y axis cables and the Z axis worked. So it turns out it had been the Z axis module. I then contacted the supplier and had been told to swap the Z & Y modules over, this had been a bad move as the control board started to smoke!. Now I have no Z or Y and awaiting further contact from the supplier.
To change the direction of a motor change any single pair of wires over on one end of the motor connector
i have the one you are putting on can you put an e-stop on it
Hi. I recently bought a CNC3-3018PRO ON amazon. As I conected everything. When I press the power botton on smoke come the controller box. I have to quickly turn it off. I have checked all connections several times. Even controller by it sel with nothing connected smokes.
Which stepper drivers are on the new board, DRV8825?
afternoon James i know this is a old video but i looking for a upgraded board for the genmitsu 4040 you got any ideas please
Might be useful to show how you can adjust the potentiometers that limit the current to the stepper motors, might save a board or motors in the future.
Sorry for commenting on an old post, but where are the potentiometers? I can't find them.
@@DumbassDouchebags They are the tiny white plastic circles with a slot in it, each next to a heat sink for the 3 channels of servo controllers. They are located on the little red daughter PCBs on the ChronosMaker at 2:33, just above the heatsinks from the camera's perspective.
Why the spindle always on without connect the pc..how to set up grbl?
Hi James I have had real issues with the Woodpecker V3.4 board on the 3018cnc pro. With the travel directions and Homing. When I have done both I never can get it right. and the GRBL work end up messed up . Can you let us know what setting you used for the Setting particularly $3 , $23 and preferable all the settings as a Guide . I have looked in the video you say you would update in a later video but can find the info manay thanks for the great Video for us new to CNC/ Laser engraving
Long story short, I ended up going back to the Cronosmaker a while after making this video. I had 2 woodpecker fail back to back.
The $3 can vary between every board, even ones of the same brand, ive never understood why. However there are only 7 options for it so worst case just go $3=1 and test, if something isn't right then $3=2 and test again and so on upto 7. But that setting is just when an axis doesn't move in the right direction
@@JamesDeanDesigns many thanks will try this
@@JamesDeanDesigns @Simon Collins know I am late to the party but I just bought a 3018 that came with a woodpecker. I had to change $2 to 0 from 1 and left $3 as 3 and I'm pretty sure it's accurate now, did my first cut 👍hopefully this helps anyone with the same issue
Where can I purchase longer z axis cable and spindle cable?
hi James Would you please point out the pin outs on the Woodpecker for limit switches i am not sure which is 5v and which is grd thank you.
The ground is the bottom row of pins on that board
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank You
I am using the same board on my 3018 Pro (tried 2 boards) but have issues that all parts came out 0.3mm smaller. I milled a few holes and square. Can you try milling a hole and reply back? I read the Gcode (generated from Fusion 360) of the tool path and the dimensions were correct via UGS. Also tested with Candle and no luck.
You will need to calibrate your steps. I don't have a video on this but TechyDIY has a great one. I think UGS also have a calibration tool inbuilt for it as well. Its basically where you tell you machine to move a set distance like 200mm, you then measure the exact distance. if its over or under what it should be then you re-adjust some of your setting to account for it
Hello, do you think it likely that a PROVerXL 4030 could be controlled using a duet 2 board (like Ooznest WorkBee) ?
In theory, yes it can. However, Duet uses different firmware or a different language so to speak. So most desktop CNC's use GRBL but as I say Duet is different you you need to know your software can output for that
Quick question , nube here, do these control boards still need a stepper driver
(tb6600) for a nema 23 motor?
yes ALL small toy board need biggest drivers if use big normal cnc motors, nema23 or biggest motors normal this and all toy boards handle only max 2Amp motors (its toy motors nema 17) what used only 3D printer or laser not cnc, no torgue move and cut wood etc. need take out of board adapter step and puls signal to external drivers. take out genuine drivers max 2Amp and but in adapter drivers plase were come out step wire and puls wire and enable wire then can use external big drivers etc, TB6600 or DM860 etc. and real cnc big motors etc, nema 23-34 4A-7A 3-8Nm then can working lot lot better.
Hi James, your videos have been a lifesaver for setting up the 3018, so many thanks! Quick question - have you had an issue with the Z Axis grub screws letting go of the motor shaft? This seems to be a recurring issue for me. I think I'll solve it by lightly drilling some indents to give the screws something to grip onto, but wondering if you had any suggestions? Many thanks in advance :)
My machine has also frozen during milling but I think that's likely to be a PC error or interference; something to keep an eye on though!
Freezing is usually your PC/laptop but not always. As for the grub screws, get some blue loctite or also called thread lock. Should solve the problem 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns I decided to go for the nuclear option and epoxy glued it onto the motor shaft. If it comes off now then there’s something very wrong 😅
@@geko7844 😆 good choice
@@JamesDeanDesigns thank you for your help and for all the videos. Unlikely I would have tried CNC without your guidance!
Being very new to this how do I increase the size of the design or is it even possible.
Hi Floyd, sorry for slow reply. You increase the size of the design in the software you are using. Usually there is an option to scale the objects
Hi James, Thanks for this video. If I change to the Woodpecker board, what is the maximum amperage that it can handle? I'm looking to replace my current spindle with a Hanpose 288W spindle that is rated at 24V, 12amp. I don't think the current Cronos Maker board will not be able to handle 12amps?
No, most of these boards will not handle more than about 8-10amps max. You will need a separate power supply to do that
@@JamesDeanDesigns will the separate power supply solve the problem? ie I can use the Cronos maker board just with a different power supply?
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hi James, thanks for your reply. Will I need a separate power supply and to upgrade the Cronos as well, or will a new power supply suffice?
alltime spindle power and controller board need be different power supply not newer both same power supply, and if use external motors driver board motors need own power supply, drivers own and controller own. NOT same power supply all together.
Do you know by any chance anything about the new Cronos controller with 4 axis and extra A mot that also has the external driver option for Nema 24 motors +? There are link under the drivers for for the extrnal drivers but, they are not marked. Do you the connections sequence? Thanks Mike
Sadly I don't but GRBL doesn't support 4th axis to my understanding so it may be running a different firmware or something
My hardware board out of smoke, and make my spindle automatic on, what must i fixed? 🙏
The mofset has likely gone. If you know what you're doing you could try to replace it but in reality it's probably easier to get a new board
I which you explain how to configure the new board
Can you use one of the apple GRBL control programs to run these boards? M1 was by far the best option in my price range... lol
I want to add that I am a machinist like, for a living. I know G code and M code. While my machine isnt fully assembled and running yet, once it is, if I am able to manually input code and programs I will be able to, however I have NOT used any sort of Cad/Cam software other than basic exposure, and its been so long.. Idk. (I know how to run Fanuc and Haas mainly.. this is still pretty new to me!)
@@rgriffith6476 Hi Reece, latest video on software might be useful for you to get started but yes you can run these from apple machines. Something like UGS is cross platform
What I am wondering... do these control boards on the CNC correlate to a specific software sending the info? or is it just like a big CNC, simply running on G code and M code? The GRBL thing is throwing me off. like, whats that?
Im sure ^ thats answered in the video tho. Lol thanks!
Hi James, sorry for commenting on a old video. Looking to replace my controller board as I bought a 5500mw laser and realised the board doesn’t support it. My question is, what is the connector for the spindle. My current board just has a barrel plug but all the new boards seem to have the clip connector. Just not sure where to get that. Thanks
Hi Issac. I think its called a JST 2 pin 2.0 connector but double check as there are load of variations
@@JamesDeanDesigns On my Woodpecker board, the spindle is a 2-pin JST VH connector, 3.96mm (0.156") pitch. The laser connector is a 3-pin JST XH, 2.50mm pitch. The stepper motor connectors are also JST XH but 4-pin, of course (and the 6-pin ones commonly on the motors areJST PH, 2.0mm pitch) . To complete the info dump, the row of pins along the bottom edge where you'd connect a Z probe, limit switches, etc, are 0.1" (2.54mm) pitch, of the type often called Dupont connectors (but actually invented decades ago by a different company and readily available under umpteen brand names: Harwin, Fujitsu, Berg, Molex, Tyco, etc).
@@pnt1035 that is super useful. Thank you very much. For the most part the connections for the 3018pro as the same across the woodpecker and the Cronos Maker which are the most common board's I believe
what type of struts are those on the enclosure door. i used hinges but allow the door to rest on my monitor. but i like yours doesnt do that
Its a lid stay like these amzn.to/3vT0yLG
how did you home it. mine wont finish the homing cycle and crashes through the limits. ive tried swapping z-x, Ive changed switches, ive rewired switches. Ive pretty much done everything. While jogging the 3.4 sees the limits. When I run the homing cycle it wont see The Z limit or swapped the X limit. Thus I cant home which means then 3018 is totally useless. Im getting frustrated because ive wasted 2 months trying to fix it $23 = 3 or any other settings wont finish. i feel like throwing it out the window
Hi Tamati, unfortunately I dont have any limit switches so have never done homing. Personally I've never felt I need limit switches, I've been able to do everything I want without them so I wouldn't say the machine is useless. Head over to the Sainsmart user group page, you dont have to have a Sainsmart machine but there are lots of very knowledgeable people in there for stuff like this facebook.com/groups/SainSmart.GenmitsuCNC/?ref=share
im trying to use my cnc 3018 pro with corel Laser software, however in order to make the interfaz i need the mother board part number, its supposed that should be in the board but is not. how can i get it? it comes with an annoy tools board..
Hi. I have never heard of this before unfortunately. I dont really understand why the software would need that information, or even how to get that. Sorry
@@JamesDeanDesigns any idea of how to make the connection?
Hi , I had on my 3018 pro cnc a ANNOY TOOLS board. I bought a bigger spindle ( 500w with a power supply ) and i try to follow the advice of a youtube suggestion to control the speed with GRBL.
Unfortunately bouth the supplier and the board were burnt- maybe my fault. So now i have to buy a new power supply and board.
So what is your opinion should i buy a ANNOY TOOLS board or another one?
Besides do you know how to obtain GRBL contol on the spindle?
Thank you
Hello, friend. I'm lucky to see your comment here. I am a seller of ANNOY TOOLS, you can tell me how you connect and I will provide you a solution.
The first thing to note is GRBL doesn't really control the speed, or not in the way people believe it does. It has no way to monitor the RPM so all it actually does is send a certain amount of power. 100% power = full speed but 50% power doesn't actually equal half power, its actually more like 40% of the power. I will not get bogged down in this but the point I'm trying to get to is whether you do actually need GRBL to control it? Most people just use a dial when they upgrade as it makes more sense and people do not often adust the RPM, they adjust their feeds and speeds to compensate. As for your actual question, I believe there is a relay that allows you to match the 24v upto the 48v in relation to controlling the speed via GRBL. Ill try and find what its called.
@@JamesDeanDesigns normal used hand controller spindle speed because if you change bit need change speed too this tools good, and can do this best whit RPM gauge show REAL spindle speed, etc own build simple optpcoupler RPM board many example have video youtube etc internet, and then 500W spindle need buy 10$ about spindle speed controller adjust speed to DC motor whit potentiometer knop. many toy cc boards not can use PWM output to spindle, and big volts and current eed FET if have PWM out controller board, then board controller out PWM controller FET and FET controller spindle voltage. nominal have only on/off output in board and then need relay to controller spindle high volts. board control relay on/off and relay controll spindle power ON/OFF. but this no handle speed, only on/off.
I guess my machine (was a gift) came with a woodpecker board as it looks exactly like the one on the right.
I’ve seen a ton that come pre upgraded
@@silverwarriorin348 Yeah, I was lucky but I do believe most are now coming with the upgraded Woodpecker with 1.1f on them (I compile my own so has 1.1h) enclosed and with a 40mm fan.
@@generalawareness101 I see
Would you know what plug is needed to put on a Z axis probe to plug it into the cronos maker board?
Something like these will work amzn.to/3l543Zm
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you so much. You have been a great help.
@@JamesDeanDesigns They arrived today and yes they work perfectly. Thank you,,,so much.
Can you help with the spindle not shutting off? Cut the power off and when you turn it back on the spindle starts automatically.
Sama to me
mine appears to have come with a woodpecker.
James, a little help please, I loaded the driver then candle then the control panel only partially loaded meaning I could not move the axis and only heard a clicking sound, the driver was located in com 4. the grbl is cronos maker, do you have any thoughts and what is the source of the new board you installed
I dont use candle personaly, I use UGS. Usually the contol panel or jog panel can be turned on within one of menus at the top. If you have the panel up and are just hearing clicking when you select an arrow then you may find there is a lose connection. Unfortunately I have something where I damaged one of the driver chips on the cronos maker and everytime I tried tonuse the x axis i just got a clicking sound
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you James for your input, not familiar with UGS
JD do you have a video on calibrating the new board?
No, hoping to make one soon just haven't got around to it yet
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you JD, had to change my chipboard to the one you had here i had annoy tools for chipboard on a sainsmart 3018 hopefully its not opposite🤞🤞, thank you JD
sir grbl 1.1 mother bord installation in compuyer. software video please
Hello, I have a question,
I am new with the cnc3018, when I put it to work with the lasser the machine
only moves linear. but when I put it to work with the router motor, the motor
rises and writes over the air. I have even changed my mother board cronosmaker but it still
doesn't work for me. Please can you guide me? I used candle and laserGRBL.
What is clamped on your spoil board, looks intriguing ?
I've been cutting zero clearance plates which are too big for the bed, so I do them in 2 halves. That is a jig that allows me to position the material the same each time. Just saves a lot of time when doing the same job. Few more shots of how it's used on my Instagram
Hey James im a beginner here . i did pick up the woodpecker board alias mine is doing the same working in the opposite direction . How can I fix this . can you point me to the video which you mentioned you were makiing next ?
I havent got around to making it yet. But if all your axis are the wrong way I believe the solution is $3=5
@@JamesDeanDesigns
remember im totally green .. $3=5 no clue what does this mean
I just came to see if the spindle LED on the top left lit up when turned on or just when spindle is spinning. Thanks for no rundown on indicators. My spindle LED is dark and wont spin. and the search continues
I'm not 100% sure. I'll try and check the next time I'm in the workshop
Hi James wonder if you can help I brought a 5.5 laser module kit from Sain smart and a spindle upgrade but my 3018 controller board is not compatible I've been told my board is annoy circuit board my laser fires full power when you switch the power on to the controller board control and continuously burns at high power until I turn off at the power
Can't say I've heard of Annoy before but a quick Google show one by Annoy Tools which is basically the same as the Cronosmaker. As for your laser being on 100%, I suspect your firmware is out of date. When you first connect your machine is candle or UGS, in the console area it should say something like GRBL and then either 0.9 or 1.1. If its anything lower than 1.1f you will need to upgrade the firmware
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you I will look at that great help and will let you know if that sorts the problem out
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hi James I have looked on there and mine says Grbl 1.1 F
what software do you run for your CNC machine I'm new to this and I'm not sure what software to choose there is quite a bit out there could you help me thank you very much
Hi George, Are you after software for designing or software for running the machine as they are typically separate?
@@JamesDeanDesigns yes I actually know nothing of CNC milling yes I want to learn how to do this I've got no experience whatsoever with cnc I want to learn how to do this and probably turned it into a career
Does this woodpecker go by a different name I can't find any by searching woodpecker 3.4 board?
Usually if you search GRBL control board it's one of the most common to come up, Usually shown in the plastic case
@@JamesDeanDesigns Cheers James much appreciated
The original board has 2 Y-axis terminals.
Does that mean it would have accepted a second Y-axis step motor?
It does, the Cronosmaker can run dual Y axis
If you want to use an extra stepper motor, you can get a splitter.
I got it running ok
I found a fast way to fix it x and y
Where did you get your laser-safe window pane?
Got it from robosavy. Pretty fast delivery as well
just got a brand new cnc 3018 pro
nothing works , i mean all axis aren't moving not even the spindle
do you have any idea what could be the issue. the led light on the board is working tho
thanks in advance
I suspect its not connected correctly. There is always the chance the board is faulty but its a case of eliminating possible causes. Start with the simpler ones such making sure its connected correctly, try different software etc.
@@JamesDeanDesigns nope just checked double checked and still no pulse . Tried a couple of softwares. So am guessing it could be the board ?
All led blinkers are working on the board..
@@hamadaali5687 have you confirmed its definitely connected to the PC correctly via device manager?
If you have something like a multimeter you can test things on the board to try and eliminate issues but if you're not used to circuit boards then its not easy
@@JamesDeanDesigns well I just pressed the restart button a couple of times and now it works :) but the spindle stopped all of the sudden. I changed the speed rate and it stopped spinning .
So was it just cost that made you choose that new board over just a new one of the existing board?
I had convinced myself the woodpecker was better, basicallybecause thats what I could get at the time. Upon reflection I realised this is probably my worst video. The Cronosmaker is a much better board and I ended up going back to that. In fact I might take this down and make a new video on it
@@JamesDeanDesigns I went through two "Woodpeckers" could not get either to work. Built up my own from I couple of pieces I had in my junk box. Works well.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Please do a new video :) .. I am looking around at the moment and it seems like if I want to stick with running GRBL the Cronosmaker seems like the least hassle. Also with Cronosmaker you can change to using BTT S42B closed loop drivers.
Why did you choose the woodpecker board over the chronos board?
Just realised I never said that. You can tell it was an unplanned video 🙈 The case and fan were quite importantant for me having already broken one driver chip previously. I was planning to add a fan to the cronosmaker as well but it meant more depth because of how deep the driver chips are. Delivery was also vital for me, most other boards would take several weeks to arrive from other countries
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you for the clarification. I haven't purchased my CNC machine yet, so I've been doing a LOT of research. My most pressing need is to be able to make small productions of PCBs for one of my regular 3D printing clients. I'd also like to be able to machine 3 mm sheet aluminium if possible. I've been looking at the 3018 Pro machines, but I am pretty sure the stock spindle would not be up to the task and it would need to be upgraded to at least a 300 watt spindle.
how much strength have youre steppers. i just have assembled a 3018pro with that same board, can easely hold steppers by hand, they have no strength. thanks!
Hi. They are low powered as this is a lightweight machine. They are the right ratio for how fast the spindle can cut. You can fit more powerful ones with higher amp, but you need a board that can output that higher amp as well.
@@JamesDeanDesigns okay, tahnks, i have some laying around (steppers and boards) so gonna try that. I thought that this setup would need some strengh to work correct, maybe not. i try this setup first.
@@JamesDeanDesigns NO, need only board drivers out and adapter but drivers place were go out step signal =puls, and dir signal and enable signal then thats 3 wire go to external drivers, stepper motor drivers, etc, TB6600, DM 556-860 etc, and own power to drivers who handle normal cnc big nema23 -34-etc big motors current.
If the stepper motors are running backwards, you can switch the inner two wires of the plugs.
Much easier in my opinion to change the $3 setting in your GRBL configuration. Saves messing with the wires
@@JamesDeanDesigns in code can reserve or motor wire reserve or controller board wires reserve, best have if use code or motor wire change.
Hi can someone please help I’m trying to do text it’s ok on the program Steve is the text but when I machine it it comes out upside down and in reverse
Hi, good chance it is your $3 setting. Try $3=3 to begin with. If not take a look at the table in this link and work out which number yours needs to be.
github.com/gnea/grbl/wiki/Grbl-v1.1-Configuration#3--direction-port-invert-mask
@@JamesDeanDesigns hi thank you I’ve now got it working great video’s keep up the good work
I've noticed that in your more recent videos you appear to be running the Chronos Maker board again. Is there some reason why you switched back from theWoodpecker board?
Think I blew 2 or 3 woodpecker boards consecutively. There are some advantages to them but since putting a cronosmaker maker on everything has been good.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Ah, okay, yeah that 20K spindle you have can blow the FET's on the board if it becomes loaded down. (I have the Genmitsu version of it on mine) Some people have also reported that they need to control the ramp-up of the spindle or it would blow the FET's on the board, though I have not experienced that problem with mine. (I've had to replace the FET's on my board once, and that was from the spindle getting stalled due to a bad program plunging the tool too deep into the workpiece) I am thinking of switching to an external FET driver board that can handle more current, to be safe, and then just tapping off the PWM signal from the woodpecker board to drive it.
@@canadianavenger i just plunged a vbit straigh in to wood 20k spindle an board went up in a puff of smoke woodpecker board wounded
@@davelamb2094 yep, that's what happened to me... luckily I was able to fix mine by replacing a couple of components. I now run my spindle off of a separate supply directly, when doing harder cutting.
what is the cronus maker model number. thanks
The one I have is the Cronos Maker v1.98 but I believe there are newer versions of it
Could these controllers control a 6040...i want to use grbl on it
I cant promise they can as I've never used a 6040 but I'm 95% sure they can if the connection are the same
A 6040 is a more true hobby grade machine, you would be better using a better system such a Mach 4 as it will allow you to get more from your machine. The 3018 is a great machine for getting your feet wet in the hobby but really only a toy. That being said if your needs are more basic then GRBL will do the job well. Yes GRBL controller will work but I would run TB6600 drivers and a seperate power supply for the spindle and the machine
@@mikeobrien9829 Hi Mike. As I always say in my videos, I'm still a beginner. Why is Mach 4 better? I'm hoping to upgrade in the near future to something around 1000x1000
@@JamesDeanDesigns Mach 4 is more like professional control software used in commercial machines, it can also control more axis and I beleive do true 3D manufacture rather than the 2 1/2 D manufacture inder GRBL. That being said GRBLis brilliant while your learning and has a huge support network and best of all its FREE :D
So I'm guessing if my controller uses mach 3 it can use mach 4..
I use aspire to design my work and then jump to mach3..
Those 'chips' don't process g-code though. The G-Code is is processed by the GRBL firmware on the ATMega chip 2 cm beneath the driver chips causing the ATMega to send out I/O pulses. The (driver) chips just take the low power ATMega I/O pulses (max 5v and about 200 milliamp max for all I/O ports/pins combined is the norm) and use them and the 24v power rail (or whatever you are using as main power input) to convert those pulses into higher power and higher current signals for the stepper motors. Hence why they are commonly referred to as 'drivers'.
Now some of these drivers are a bit more advance, Trinamic chips for instance is a good example. Some even have the ability to (optionally) talk back (as it were) to the microprocessor via SPI. But that would take us quite beyond the GRBL related scope. In standalone mode however they are typically drop in replacements for the drivers you have now. But with some benefits like much less steppermotor noise thanks to features like stealthchop and spreadcycle. It's quite common for people to 'upgrade' their 3d printers with such chips to cut down on the steppermotor whine for instance.
Wow! That a really detailed reply, thank you. I'm slightly surprised you would watch a begginers video like mine already knowing that knowledge. In retrospect, this was a really poor video, I convinced myself the woodpecker was better for some reasons and it wasn't. Shortly after I went back to a Cronosmaker
@@JamesDeanDesigns Well you did key me in to that improved 775 higher RPM spindle. My 3018 has been sitting idle next to me for some time now. Have a bigger selfbuilt CNC for wood and alu work so didn't need it really for that anymore, also got a 50W laser cutter secondhand quite cheap a while back so even for that the 3018 was no longer all that relevant.
But I have been looking for a way to engrave the odd throughhole pcb here and there (usually go with the UV sensitive approach for SMD stuff). Can do that on the bigger cnc (on mach4) if I really need but most autoprobe soft works with GRBL and the like so ... The original spindle on the 3018 I found too slow for that however, so ordered the new 20k one after stumbling on your vid, oh and think I even got the same controller as I am not sure the MKS DLC I have now will survive 24v long (it is usually used with 12v but looking at the schematic it should work with 24v too just not going to risk it), the original woodpecker board sure didn't and that came with 24v supply.
This board just plug and play or we must give the program to that board
Technically it is plug and play however, you may need to change some settings to match what what on your existing board. I should mention I went back to the Cronosmaker in the end as I had some issues with the woodpecker
When your replaced you board, did you have any problems with your laser not working? I just replaced mine and now my laser won’t work. Any help work be greatly appreciated.
I didnt have any issue. Did you make a note or backup of all your settings?
@@JamesDeanDesigns no unfortunately I didn’t make a back up copy. I have made sure that the laser mode $32 is on and all the fans for the the laser turn on when I plug it in not sure what else to try.
@@royhurd7137 can you move it about with the buttons?
@@JamesDeanDesigns yes it moves and does the program but the laser doesn’t fire.
@@royhurd7137 thats good news. Have you checked your $30 setting? That should match what ever is used in the design software. All my laser videos i use $30=1000
My Friend the red driver chips are there, to provide the correct voltage to the axis motors to drive them, it has nothing to do with gcode! Basicaly Its an ESC (Electronic Speed Controller).
The exact same technology is used for drones, Think instead of the head of the cnc ,
that the drone that moves in X-Y-Z to place, with the help of sensors (gyroscope-gps)
Thank you. I was led to believe that they impact how the code is processed.
@@JamesDeanDesigns in a way they do, the UGS platform converts the file to gcode, then we send it to the atmega processor , and the atmega calculates the gcode to real XYZ values,
and gives the command to the esc's, to provide accurate power needed for every movement.
You have done very good job on 3018 , and pretty acurate. your videos-links have helped me a lot to setup my machine.
Also I have a question, my machine came with a pcb (blue board) with the atmega soldered on it (not arduino nano that plugs),
it has selection for double Y or XYZ mode, With external esc's and TTL or constant laser (2-3 pins), and runs Grbl 0.9j By Dingqi Electronics.
what procedure for update should I follow?
Can you point me to the video to change the axis direction please
It's covered in this one czcams.com/video/r-uLsMwOBfY/video.html
The driver chips make a huge difference in the noise level , speed and accuracy of the machine, stick with the boards with the interchangable chips and purchase a set of 2209 drivers, you will lose that horrible whine as the motors move. In my humble opionion the new board you installed in a down grade on what you had. I would look for a BIGTREE SKR main board, about the same price or cheaper, generally have better components, more memory and a 32 bit processor against the 8 bit those boards
Thanks for the info. I'm still learning to thats really useful. Didnt know the drivers made a difference on the noise 🤔
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thats a tip from the 3D printing community,. My 3D printer used to use A4988 drivers and have moved to 2209 drivers, all you can hear now is the fan running, you don't hear the steppers moving at all. czcams.com/video/eIBICCzayio/video.html
@@mikeobrien9829 wow just watched that video, what a difference.
Just started to look into those boards. They don't take lasers unfortunately 😪
@@JamesDeanDesigns No- he's saying to use the Cronos board, with 2209 drivers instead of the factory drivers (the chips with the heat sinks); not that you should get the Arduino Mega. Even if he was, you could always add the laser control to another GPIO pin, maybe a small mosfet circuit if the laser is ran at >5v. He was just showing you a video of a Arduino Mega using the same 2209 driver. Boards like the Cronos and the other one you 'upgraded' to are essentially just Arduino micro-controllers. There are 32-bit boards out there also, but, you may want to learn a 'bit' about micro-controllers before concerning yourself with 8 or 32 bit processing. Feel free to reach out and ask if you have any questions.
how much amps. use tis motherboard
They are meant to be rated upto about 10amp, but its the sharp rise and drop that usually kills them
@@JamesDeanDesigns 12Vol. 10amps🤔🤔🤔🤔.??? What stepper motor you have on this mashine....
@@taclackrivoglavac3977 they are 24v boards. The spindle output is 24v but the lasers are 12v. Nema 17, I think they are 1.7amp steppers off the top of my head
@@JamesDeanDesigns many laser have 24volt too, no buy 12 volt, or need own power supply to laser, and board controller only FET at PWM output and FET controller laser power, or laser have TTL=on/off need board controller relay who controller laser own power supply on/off. same used 3D printer heat bed, use 12V or 24V printer board controller external FET board who controller bed heater.
in my opinion / I don't think this is really an upgrade,
yes okay except for the fan then!
Healthy and Friendly Greetings from the Netherlands!
Rob
You're correct. I think I've mentioned a few times in the comments that I ended up going back to the Cronosmaker. Was debating taking this video down.
@@JamesDeanDesigns
Hi James,
Oh my comment wasn't meant to be rude!
I can imagine that you used the other board because you had it.
But if I'm honest I would keep using the other board!
Do I have a question for you if I may?
I've got Candle and you once said you'd rather use UGS?
And actually that's why I'm hesitating to change it too, what now?
(what do you think? shall I switch?)
.
(I have now also ordered such a manual control/hand controller, not sure if it is good???)
.
Healthy and Friendly Greetings from the Netherlands!(Rotterdam)
Rob
goud
you cant buy a cronosmaker board anymore. now theyre Annoy Tools boards. very similar but not exact especially the power input locations.
I had noticed the little rebrand. I haven't tried an Annoy Tools one yet but after doing this vdeo I went back to using a Cronosmaker board
as my research, your new board support up to 60v spindle... so maybe your power supply is unnecessary...
Maybe Im misunderstanding your comment but what part of my power supply is unnecessary? Volts are only one part of a power supply, amps is another major factor. The power supply upgrade is less about the volts and more about the amps and this is why my supply was upgraded. I needed more amps to run the spindle, lights and fans
@@JamesDeanDesigns my friend, I believe that you have that board:
a.aliexpress.com/_B1Rhqe
If so, read the parameters of that board. All the boards that I seen that look like your boats have the same parameters... of course I also seen grbl boards that support even 110v 40amps spindles.
And please don’t get me wrong, I don’t understand on cnc like you (I’m just building my own first cnc based on 3018), but I understand a lot about electricity and mechanics ;)
@@JamesDeanDesigns by the way, your project is amazing! I learned a lot from you :)
@@JamesDeanDesigns boards not need handle more power only need etc, spindle board controll spindle FET =varaible speed or relay on/off spindle controll, and then this FET or relay connect biggest own power to spindle. same if use more current light need relay and biggest own power light, etc,fans same.
spindle have totally toy not can work good any material weak power lot, less than 100$ can buy lot lot better spindle 500-800W -dc spindle whit ER11 or ER16 and speed controller power supply, whit bracket and bolts. and need alltime use Z probe too if change bit. and near spindle can install bracket to laser too.
Hi. You seem to keep commenting on what is an old video recorded 2.5 years ago. At the time of making this that spindle was around $25, so a quarter of what you are suggesting. And again at the time of recording this, you could not get an 800w spindle for under $100, in fact it was more like $250+. The market has drastically moved on since then and prices have come down a lot. Very little validation judging old videos based on the market today.
Are you sure the entire board is bad or is it just the Z driver.
same computer than i have, what you have latency test max jitter whit normal cnc used linuxcnc, and why use shit max 2Amp stepper drivers if can use good DM860 stepper drivers ewery axis. how connect external drivers this cheap toy cnc board.
Hi can you review XYDeZiner on 1cnc.xyz?
I'll send you a key if you need it.
Thanks.