7 Essential Maintenance Skills You Need To Know
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- čas přidán 13. 06. 2024
- Looking after your mountain bike is the most important part of the sport. If done properly your bike could last you a lifetime. It's also important for safety reasons, which is why Anna Cipullo has created a list of 7 important maintenance skills every rider should know. Using these skills will also help save you money on those big repair bills!
⏱️ Timestamps ⏱️
00:00 - Intro
00:27 - Set Up Your Sag
01:51 - Adjust A Gear Cable
03:15 - Change A Tyre
04:56 - Use A Torque Wrench
06:57 - Use A Tubeless Plug
08:07 - Adjust Your Headset
10:05 - Realign Your Brake Caliper
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Do you have any maintenance tips and tricks that you think are essential? Please share them in the comments below! 👇
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🔧Do you have any maintenance tips and tricks that you think are essential? Please share them in the comments below! 👇
Check wheels and bottom bracket for looseness, check the chain for stretch, check the hub and chainrings for wear. Check wheels for true and round and dish. Check pedals for too loose or too tight
Overall good tips, maybe one to add is to clean the chain with someting like wd-40 before lubing.
In my experience 75% of bad shifting drivetrains come because of inflexible chains which sometimes appear clean but are just too sticky.
And check and adjust all cables
I wonder why people use a disc truing fork 😂 i just take off the disc put it in a flat wooden surface and hammer it with a mallet till the thing cries "I'm straight I'm straight" before i install it again. I may be a little crazy but i would also rotate the disc on a flat surface with a filling tool placed on top to make sure the disc is flat or even by it's edges and even just use a heat blower to burn off whatever invisible film you may not be able to see. I do similar for brake pads when giving a through clean, slight filling and heat blowing.
Obviously for 6 bolt brake rotors you can do both sides but for lock rotors only the side facing upwards when placed flat.
I've been taught to center the calipers (either disc or rim) by unscrewing them until they are loose, then pressing on the lever, so that the pads are pressing on the disc (and thus are centered) then tightening again.
I also learned it that way..
I'm a professional mechanic, that is exactly how you do it.
Depends on the problem. If your pistons aren’t clean you’ll just be trying to compensate for a stuck piston that way. You should be able to align the caliper itself to achieve even piston extension if they’re moving freely. The piston position can be way out if you just squeeze the levers to center it
I agree with that. That is what I expected to hear in the video. Is that not a good practice? Doing it "by eye" sounds worse to me (at least with my eyes)
Just like what @@bchearne said. I always did the lever trick, but had scenarios where brake pads were worn out at one side, later found that the piston needed to be cleaned, not that the caliper needed to be moved.
When adjusting a caliper, you can loosen the bolts, then pull on the brake lever, and retighten the bolts while the brake is firmly engaged. The caliper will center perfectly on the disc leaving your brake well-aligned. (This is only for hydraulic brakes that clamp the pad to the disc from both sides. Mechanical brakes that squeeze only one side will need to be carefully aligned as in your video.)
I can't thank you enough and just like that I fixed two of the little problems I had on my trusty bike. Thanks for the timely reminder. Best wishes
Excellent tech video. Clear advice and additional information on details that can really save you time and effort.
Barrel adjust while riding cant beleive ive never thought of that tip makes so much sense 😊
Works too
Let us know how you get on!
My barrel adjust is on the deraileur. I shift to the lowest gear, turn the adjuster "too far" then shift to 2nd, (Then it should be still in 1st) then loosen the adjuster on a stand while peddling and wait for it to go into 2nd.
simple, and most importantly understandable
Great video! The more often I see different ways to do things the more confident I get to maintain my bike myself.
I am absolutely horrible at adjusting gears and derailleurs but one thing I have learned is you can get get different results from adjusting your barrel adjustor on a bike stand and doing it while riding. I personally believe it's better to do it while riding because you are putting stress and pressure on the chain, crank, cassette, and cable so your adjustment will actually hold. But I've found that when adjusting on a bike stand that it will be fine on the bike stand but then once I get on the bike and ride it the adjustment was off. But then again as i mentioned I REALLY suck at adjusting gears, lol.
😄😄
Adjust it on the stand then tweak it when riding if required.
Very helpful, thanks. More please!!
Resetting the caliper pistons is also essential in order to center the caliper properly. Cleaning the rotor and the brake pads as well.
Agreed. I feel a "Part 2" coming on... ;)
Super helpful. Great vid.
I got to say your works are clear you know stuff and your beautiful and smart great to see such confidence
Love this from a lady ! Thank you
Great video Anna, thanks. Some things I knew, some I didn't, but all useful to be reminded about and see demonstrated. Main new lesson for me: what the hooks are for on tyre levers! Why had I never been told that before! lol
Haha! I guess you don't know until you know! Thanks for the kudos. :)
Very helpful. Thanks
I’m great at setting up sag on my rigid hardtail.
Great video thanks!
Great video!
I knew there would be something in here i didnt know, i seen the disc bender tool in the shop the other day and woundered what it was, thanks!!!! Now i need one for my toolbag 😂
I actually loosen my brake calliper, squeeze the brake and tightebìn the calliper; it always seems to work.
Same
That's a great tip, doesn't always work. Especially for 4 piston brakes, but it creates a good starting point to make adjustments from!
Yea i noticed that with my new e4 hope 4 piston brakes, i still have to adjust by eye 😊
Fantastic thank you!
Brilliant video,I will definitely using your tips in the future as I have not bought a brand new bike 👍🏻
What bike have you got? 👀
Very good video!
Great video, thanks.
I had never come close to my bike's headset. Probably because I've never felt the need, wich is a good sign, but I'll be more confident if I ever have to.
which vs wich
For a novice new to MTB this was massively helpful, thank you
Have fun !!!!!!!
Thank you dear Anna
Great video for the basics. Being able to sort disk caliper / pad rub on the trail is an essential skill. But it's also worthy to check back at base that the caliper is centred over the disc. Generally this is easy as most calipers comprise 2 halves bolted together, so the joining face should align with the disc. If not, this may indicate stiction of 1 piston (or piston set) due to disk residue or grit build up around the exposed part of the piston. A good clean of the assembly with the pads removed will usually sort this to new. Cleaning the piston actually involves a bit more work in terms of actuating the brakes to expose more surface, but beware not to pop a piston and remember to push the pistons back carefully with a strong plastic lever (be especially careful levering ceramic pistons).
If you've just fixed a flat, reinstalled your wheel and you're getting brake rub that you weren't before, it's almost always that you're wheel isn't centered. Make sure it's centered before messing with caliper adjustment.
Nice tips Anna way to make it simple and easy how could you not do these things
The toppest of tippage, Anna! 👌🏻
Thank you
You're welcome 🛠️
Measuring your fork's/damper's travel with a ruler might not be a good idea. My 160mm Fox 36 stanchions measure 170mm from seal to crown and my Float X measures 65mm even though it's 60mm. Same with my 140mm X-Fusion Sweep Boost, it's 150mm seal to crown. Check the manufacturer website for information if you're unsure what travel is your suspension. Fox for example offers an easy to use tool where you put the serial number of your fork/damper and it gives you the exact specification as well as set up and service manuals.
I HAD to learn a lot of maintenance due to the amount of riding I put on my eMTB...
If I didn't my costs would be astronomical even more so than they already are. YIKES!
Super video ! Ca m'a permis de confirmer ce que je pensais ! See you !
Excellent video! This was very helpful, especially so because both the problems and their solutions were clearly defined and effectively addressed. Strong work!
Thanks #Anna, much appreciated. Maybe next video a trail side tubeless puncture repair? I've seen the plug kits and co2 canisters for emergency plug and inflate but I have never used one.
I recently did a "How to fix a tubeless puncture" video on GMBN Tech, which should explain all, so check that out! I hope it helps. :)
@@AnnaOnTheBike My fault, you did and I went back and watched it. I'm curious, do you always carry a pump as part of your kit instead of the quick inflate CO2? I was thinking it might be easier to carry it on the bike instead of a pump so I don't have to carry a bag. I currently carry no tools but I want to with some big rides coming up. Thanks
Princess! Got all the help in the world!
In the case of recent canyon bikes, the issue is the plastic headset, the only way to actually get rid of issues with it (lose, squeaky, etc) is to replace plastic spacers with metal ones and replace the top cap with a metal one. It is a travesty that canyon still ships that piece of garbage of a headset and gets away with it
Like how the shirt matches the bike color - lol! Great info!
I aim to please! All our sweaters and tees are available in the GMBN Shop ;)
Good video. You don't mention how to ensure the headset isn't too tight. I pick up the bike from the saddle nose, allowing the front wheel to hang with the steerer tube roughly vertical and swing the wheel (or handlebars) to one side and let go. The front end should smoothly swing back to center with an oscillation or two. If it can't, loosen pinch bolts, loosen the top bolt an eighth of a turn or so. Retorque the pinch bolts and repeat checks.
You can also check by riding hands off. If you crash right away it was too tight.
Most helpful. Thank you so much for this video. Appreciate it. Namaste 🙏🏽
To Alighn a Disk Brake Caliper...You Sqeeze the Lever...Hold it...Then you tighten the bolt's.
Exactly- this is the only correct way to do it. Not „by eye”…
Add: Grab the lever so that the brake is just starting to bite and spin the wheel the opposite direction it normally goes then squeeze the brake the rest of the way before you tighten the bolts.
This only works if your brakes are in good order and your pistons activate evenly. It doesn't always turn out that way. Hence I wanted to explain an alternative method that always works for me - by eye. 😉
She speaks truth 👆🏼
I’ve tried this about 1,000 times and it has worked about 0 times.
For the caliper alignment issue, you can also remove the brake pads from the caliper and give a little bit more tension to your pad spring that hold the pads in place, it's made of stainless steel.
Just pull it appart gently in order to make the opening a bit wider, then put back your pads in the caliper.
The pads will now have a little bit more facility to come back closer to the pistons than before, therefore clearing your brake disc more easy.
Beautiful and lovely accent!
Getting the tyre back on - you also have a sh@t load of luv on the rim, not mentioned in the vid - but this helps a lot.
Hi that was good to watch I have problems with my bike every time I change gear going up hill and down I get a rattle from the back of my bike any idea what could cause that thanks
10:29 if your caliper gets out of whack you should clean the pistons before you realign it. It’s probably gone wonky because the pistons are sticking a bit and the problem will just recur if you don’t take the time to get the grit off the pistons
I always tell people if the chain is having issues moving left on the cassette turn the barrel left and if it’s having issues moving right then turn it to the right.
Can you post a list and link of the tools used please
Never knew there’s tire puncture glue, good to know !! Love your videos Anna 🤘…but I don’t think anybody will ever pull a star nut out tightening the headset preload bolt, the bearings will crush before that ever happens … cheers 🍻
I've actually pulled a star nut out... it's easier than you think when you start out and don't watch GMBN tech... only did it once though...
Oh it's easy enough to do. I've eeen this happen to a few folks who somehow didn't have enough headset spacers and they kept tightening the headset screw. In fact, if I have to remove a starnut (installing EDC multitool) and the starnut is close to the top of the head tube, instead of pounding it to the bottom, I use a bunch of headset spacers and the screw to tighten it out the top.
edit: ...the "bearing seals" would crush...
... if a star nut can pull UP that easily, then it's either installed wrong (bent) or something is out of tolerance, like the nut itself or the fork. In some cases they can be pushed through the bottom for removal, but not all fork steertubes are wide enough to let this happen
Near 9:24 the Park Tool Torque wrench is used to loosen a bolt. The instructions with mine wrench say that this will cause the wrench to no longer be calibrated. Sorry if this is a duplicate comment.
At low torque it won't mess with your calibration on a proper torque wrench to undo a bolt. These torque tools however are fixed in reverse, friction slip torque for forwards, so again, all good for low torque undo-ing :)
totally unrelated but what gold hubs are you using Anna?
How do I set the sag?
Forgot to mention tyre direction arrow on side wall.
You know what's the scary bit? that there is a need to make these videos (and I know there is!)
People tend to just leave the bike's adjustments and service to the mechanics and I think everyone should do their own maintenance.
Reliance on someone else is silly. The number of times I see people just not have their bikes ready because it's at the mechanics is staggering! (and the money they spend 😬)
on my tourque wrench it says not to use it too loosen bolts. Only tightening.
Yes, torque wrench is for only tightening fasteners. Using them for loosening fasteners only damages them. Hence the warning on your wrench.
An easier way is to fly Anna to your house and have her tune it. That is if you're rich
Or head to your local bike shop... 😂
No no, @@gmbntech , let him fly me to far away lands! I can't handle it! 😜
Be able to do a lever bleed of the brakes.
I just let gravity do it
That will save you a lot of money! But gravity bleeds aren't as effective as you'd think, best this to do is read how your brakes manufacturer recommend to bleed the brakes 🤙
I'm a newly qualified female autistic mechanic.
Thanks for posting this we need more females
Is Anna the Nigella of the mountain bike world?
The gap in-between disc & pad is that small, to do it by eye would be quite difficult. Loosen bolts, grab a handful of lever, re-tighten bolts. If that doesn't work, try a disc brake guide.
The gap is actually quite big! Holding a white sheet of paper behind the calliper while you're adjusting can help you see those gaps 👀
What's up skid Marks
When I watch your videos I have you tube premium 😮
you mentioned how to calculate SAG but didn't show how to actually set it... any links to vids on that?
Here's a good one: gmbn.eu/suspensionwork
1st. Good tips
You're too cool.
Why not 170 multiplied by .3 (%30)?!
I just wanted people to know it was a percentage, i.e. out of 100. But yes, that's works too! 😄
Great tips! With bike prices as obscene as they are, even with "sales", it's a shame to have your bike ride like a cheap department store bike because you don't know how to tweak the setup.
Does anybody have a Newton meter to ugga dugga conversion chart
Ugga dugga on a bike is brave!
❤❤❤
3:04 thats actually WRONG
You adjust the barrel adjuster 1 maybe 2 clicks, THEN you shift one gear back and one gear forward. If done correctly you will need less total clicks on the barrel adjuster to go into bigger gear when shifting. Most people go too far on the adjustment because they dont test the shifting and simply "wait" until it automatically shifts one gear up while adjusting.
Yep
Good video but I sure would like to see them work on a bike that get rode by a person not a brand new 7k bike.
👍🏻
You can simply just multiply 170x.3 (30%)=51
She’s Certainly knowledgeable her advice and her ability to explain in a clear and understandable big thumbs up from me..
😍😍😍
🤫🤫🤫🤫 she’s not wearing any rings either….
I can't do any of these things. 😢
Once you start slacking callipers it’s usually never right
I bet it's often harder to make a cheaper quality bike work right.
170 x .3 is 30% of 170.
Took me a second to figure out what anti clockwise was.
only one: be able to solve problem
hack: your calculator app has a percentage button. 170 > press % > type 30 > 51 😮 😅
Thank you for your work! It’s your ministry & your witness for Jesus. The Bible is a book that reveals but also one that historically true.
Religion is bullshit,get rid of religion and 80% of child abuse would disappear.
MTBMilf
It is not a gear it is a sprocket. Cassette is a set of sprockets NOT gears!
Or you could do your maths the easy way.
170 x .3 = 51
You welcome 😂
It's weird how when a woman explains something I learn better.
Women talk more than men and are often just better communicators.
Same in here, not always working with my wife 😅
Nah, I think Anna is just awesome. She's my favourite presenter on here, she always seems more relatable.
It's probably just the voice, more inviting. Or maybe it's just this person specifically
I agree, that is weird.
Why do you keep saying "forks"? It's a single unit and there's only one on the bike. It's fork not forks.
How sad you are.
The word "Lever" is pronounced "LAA-ver", not "LEE-ver".
each t their own no..?
That depends on whether you're east or west of the Mississippi.
Still unbeleivable... not remotely compatible with normal folk...