Hi Martin. I've just now found this video, and wish I had had this kind of explanation 25-30 years ago, when I first learned to build my first guns. Back then we had no internet, all I had to go on was a single library book with a large, two page photo of a professional coil gun, and a copy of the original patent, from about the 1910's or thereabouts! I could not understand the circuitry, nor what the purpose of the capacitor was, and so I improvised. My first guns ran on Alternating Current- supplied by a tv transformer at about 15volt, 50 Hz. This translated to 3000 beats per minute, and I found that this was the ideal speed to make a solid line, without cutting the skin. The guns themselves consisted of a single winding noise reduction coil for a car stereo, (back in the days of distributor and coil ignition) mounted in a homemade frame, the spring was stainless cut and shaped from a washing machine bowl, and the binder post and contact screw simply adjusted the throw of the steel armature bar! In all, it was a reliable setup, the only failures I had were the occasional snapped spring. I made my own clipcords from a spring, some bits of plastic from an ice cream lid, some stiff wire, and a couple of small screws! My foot pedal was from a sewing machine, and my needle bars were stainless fishing trace wire, shaped with pliers!! My tubes/nozzles were stainless tube, about 8mm diameter, shaped in one piece with a kilometrico pen tip soldered into the tip (ball removed, and smoothed over, so they glided smoothly). With this setup, I could use a single beading needle to do some lovely lines.
I have been asked to ad to my first comment, the angle of the contact screw to the spring has nothing to do with the operation of the machine but the best angle would be 90% to the spring allowing it to ware evenly other wise you would have the reshape or put a new point on it every time you adjusted the screw because of ware on one side and not the other if you look at the frames in this video the should be switched because of the longer contact screw arm belongs on the shader , other than that perfect video !
This is the best explanation of parts and use of them I have seen yet ! If your a beginner and need machine info watching this video is a must
excellent video
This was an awesome video! Probably one of the best I’ve seen to explain the the components of a tattoo machine and their functions.
A melhor expe mais completa explicação que vi até agora. Obrigada
Good information.. im rebuilding my machines TODAY
Hi Martin. I've just now found this video, and wish I had had this kind of explanation 25-30 years ago, when I first learned to build my first guns. Back then we had no internet, all I had to go on was a single library book with a large, two page photo of a professional coil gun, and a copy of the original patent, from about the 1910's or thereabouts! I could not understand the circuitry, nor what the purpose of the capacitor was, and so I improvised. My first guns ran on Alternating Current- supplied by a tv transformer at about 15volt, 50 Hz. This translated to 3000 beats per minute, and I found that this was the ideal speed to make a solid line, without cutting the skin. The guns themselves consisted of a single winding noise reduction coil for a car stereo, (back in the days of distributor and coil ignition) mounted in a homemade frame, the spring was stainless cut and shaped from a washing machine bowl, and the binder post and contact screw simply adjusted the throw of the steel armature bar! In all, it was a reliable setup, the only failures I had were the occasional snapped spring. I made my own clipcords from a spring, some bits of plastic from an ice cream lid, some stiff wire, and a couple of small screws! My foot pedal was from a sewing machine, and my needle bars were stainless fishing trace wire, shaped with pliers!! My tubes/nozzles were stainless tube, about 8mm diameter, shaped in one piece with a kilometrico pen tip soldered into the tip (ball removed, and smoothed over, so they glided smoothly). With this setup, I could use a single beading needle to do some lovely lines.
Great vid, very clear and no waffle.
Extremely helpful thank you!
Thank you so much and very well explained sir !!!! so relevant even after 5 years :)
Very helpful
Really helpful video, thanks. :)
Very excellent on explaining the difference of a shader n liner... "Thanks very much"!!!
Thanks for the video..so helpful
very well explained thanks for the video pal.
perfect explanation :)
Wow. Awesome work !
Just what I was looking for.
new subs .
PERFECT vid
I have been asked to ad to my first comment, the angle of the contact screw to the spring has nothing to do with the operation of the machine but the best angle would be 90% to the spring allowing it to ware evenly other wise you would have the reshape or put a new point on it every time you adjusted the screw because of ware on one side and not the other if you look at the frames in this video the should be switched because of the longer contact screw arm belongs on the shader , other than that perfect video !