Unfortunately, we've seen all the different brands break. It happens. We haven't had any issues with this set... I'm glad they were able to send you parts to repair them.
@bigpaw64 When installing them, you do not need to grease them. The internal parts have already been lightly greased from the manufacturer. Sometimes we lightly grease the large outer o-ring when installing them so they can slide in easier. As far as greasing the splines upon installation...I guess you can but its really not necessary or in the instructions. When servicing them you can LIGHTLY grease the internal parts.
they lock/unlock the hubs so they can free spin when not in use. you can drive it around like that as long as you don't have a locker or spool in the front. otherwise, you will have a hard time turning.
I'm not quite sure what you are asking. If your hubs have a dial you should be able to turn them to the free position. If the dial wont budge then you should replace the hubs. Inspect your transfer case or have someone look at it to fins out why it wont come out of 4.
@4wdFactory Thank you man! You have always been so helpful on the forum with my questions. I app the help with the axles a couple years ago! The Iron Horse is running great! God Bless man! Wheres the vids of that crazy s10 blazer you hacked up:)
@sovietsks45 disconnect the front driveshaft and see if it still does it. this will help determine if its coming from the transfer case or front differential.
hey man had the same problem today. idk if you fixed it but heres what i did.. take a hammer, the kind with a round edge and a flat edge.. place the round edge of the hammer on the shaft and impact hit it a few times with another hammer. took about 5-6 hits but it came out. problem solved
@4wdFactory im talking about putting some grease on the end of your axle and on the splined areas of the new hub-----i just called warn about this----and YES----he said---just like the dirrections state-----apply a light coating of grease on installation------just dont want to see your new manual locking hubs wear prematurely-----thats all
I had a solid jet black 92 Ford night with the 5.0 not a H.O. it had the Dana 44 I think they were 3:72 real close I don't remember if that sounds right I had to replace the diff cover gasket when I got it the front was ok with plenty of good gear oil so the rear had a splash gear but I never found out if the front had a splash gear
So I was mudding and lost the whole damn hub now there's just a splined shaft sticking out and some worn out looking bolt holes. How big of a deal is that ?
@vipulaatthanayake Your truck most likely has a closed knuckle dana 44. I would recommend swapping in a chevy Dana 44 or 10 bolt from 73-91 1/2 ton trucks with standard knuckles and disc brakes.
I will not put any Chevrolet JUNK ON my Ford. I know what caused my problem. Number one someone tried to weld a crack in the HUB. Well it did last for five years. Someone needed to go back to school. I am glad my wife and I were on a highway and made it home.the hub is very hard to find. I guess I was lucky or i knew the wright person.
DAMN, i wish i knew about the Mile Marker Hubs, i Just replaced my warns with new warn they cost $160,00 plus tax. maybe i can take them back really have not used them yet,
@Bigmanghs03 There are some videos on our channel. I recently sold it and started another one. I'm gonna try my best to keep it looking like a blazer. GOD Bless you too and Merry Christmas!
OK, I have taken the outside of the lockout off and the c-clip and the snap ring and it will not come out. Seems as if there is a burr on the spline keeping it from coming off. any recommendations would be appreciated.
@4wdFactory i just bought and installed a new set of warn premiun locking hubs and it says to apply grease to all the surfaces------printed at the very bottom of the directions------you may want to double check that!!!
1977 chevy k10 203 tcase adapter has already been installed have selectro hubs on it but they are worn out still work amazing though. want to install new hubs on it want some good ones all i have to do is gut the hub down to the nut and then install the hub gear then cap etc. but other then that,thats all i would need to do? a part number fro a hub kit would help out to as theres alot of them out there .
i Hope someone could answer a question, i have an 1989 Bronco full size, i have the warn plastic dial they are about 10 yrs old this summer i was Not off road, one day i walked out to the truck and i noticed the one Hub was gone and all the Allen screws were broke off & the cap & dial was gone, Why or how do you think it happened, because i cannot figure it out, i bought new steel dial Warns...
@dbzgt545 They are around $160 which is much less than warns. Don't forget about our drive flanges either. Either way, we can make you a smokin deal. Let us know. Thanks!
I have a 76 chevy (hence profile picture) and the lock out hubs are packed so full of grease that I can't even find the snap rings- anyway I got the mile marker hubs and I'm wondering if I have to disassemble the new hubs and install the parts into the existing hub rather than somehow sticking the whole new one onto the shaft?
I have a 90 dodge ram and changed it from auto lock to manual hub but they are not engaging. Any thoughts? I just had to be pushed in the snow because they wont lock in!
New to these MM hubs. You said "stainless". Are they? A stainless steel piece of metal hub? Or is that MM hub cover plastic, with a stainless steel coating? thanks
If you have the locking hubs both engaged, could you drive around like that? I don't really know how they work. Is it like a cheap version of locking your rear axle?
Hey, man i have a set of old warn hubs on my 82 ramcharger and it says there in lock position and the transmission is stuck in 4 wheel so is there a way i could replace them and make it go into reguilar drive thanks.
I have a 1990 dodge power ram 4x4 with manual locking hubs. I'm trying to remove the hub so I can replace my rotor. There doesn't appear to be an outer snap ring. It looks like the outer gear is built into the hub. Kinda hit a dead end. Any ideas?
It shouldn't. It was made to be AWD. I presume it has the np203 transfer case. You can even leave the hubs locked in while the shift selector is in 2wd mode. I don't recommend it though because it puts a little extra drag into the system and will affect your mileage a little bit. New cars that are made to be AWD all the time use much lighter weaker components and they also use lighter oil for lubrication to keep the mileage losses to a minimum.
i have a question,i just got a 1979 F250 4x4 with under 90k on it and when i put my truck in 4 wheel drive it makes a loud grinding noise and now i just tried it again and i thought i was dragging around my drive shaft it was making alot of grinding noise but only in 4wheel drive both 4hi and 4low i cant figure out what it is can anyone help me?
IMO Mile Marker hubs are JUNK! I broke 2, less than 1 year old, and dissected them, and MM finally send me a few parts to repair them, after I had the tech guy watch the video of them breaking. I don't know where they're made, but they should be sent back there, or dumped in the ocean! Feel free to watch my vids of them breaking, and me dissecting them at CORVAIRWILD/mile marker
MM hubs junk..find an old pair of Spicer hubs and rebuild them...I had to replace a Spicer bc it got knocked off on a rock, didn't have an extra at time guess which hub failed the 4 month old MM took teeth right out of it..
Unfortunately, we've seen all the different brands break. It happens. We haven't had any issues with this set...
I'm glad they were able to send you parts to repair them.
@bigpaw64
When installing them, you do not need to grease them. The internal parts have already been lightly greased from the manufacturer. Sometimes we lightly grease the large outer o-ring when installing them so they can slide in easier. As far as greasing the splines upon installation...I guess you can but its really not necessary or in the instructions. When servicing them you can LIGHTLY grease the internal parts.
I would also recommend using the supreme hubs. It looks like you had the standard hubs with the plastic dial.
they lock/unlock the hubs so they can free spin when not in use. you can drive it around like that as long as you don't have a locker or spool in the front. otherwise, you will have a hard time turning.
I'm not quite sure what you are asking. If your hubs have a dial you should be able to turn them to the free position. If the dial wont budge then you should replace the hubs.
Inspect your transfer case or have someone look at it to fins out why it wont come out of 4.
@4wdFactory Thank you man! You have always been so helpful on the forum with my questions. I app the help with the axles a couple years ago! The Iron Horse is running great! God Bless man! Wheres the vids of that crazy s10 blazer you hacked up:)
Thanks for this video! Helped a lot.
Dominick Bashwinger You're welcome!
@dbzgt545
they have a lifetime warranty. you can check their website for more details on the warranty.
@sovietsks45
disconnect the front driveshaft and see if it still does it. this will help determine if its coming from the transfer case or front differential.
hey man had the same problem today. idk if you fixed it but heres what i did.. take a hammer, the kind with a round edge and a flat edge.. place the round edge of the hammer on the shaft and impact hit it a few times with another hammer. took about 5-6 hits but it came out. problem solved
@4wdFactory im talking about putting some grease on the end of your axle and on the splined areas of the new hub-----i just called warn about this----and YES----he said---just like the dirrections state-----apply a light coating of grease on installation------just dont want to see your new manual locking hubs wear prematurely-----thats all
I had a solid jet black 92 Ford night with the 5.0 not a H.O. it had the Dana 44 I think they were 3:72 real close I don't remember if that sounds right I had to replace the diff cover gasket when I got it the front was ok with plenty of good gear oil so the rear had a splash gear but I never found out if the front had a splash gear
@4wdFactory yes---thanks you
@bigpaw64
you dont grease the locking hubs. it will also advise not to grease the hubs in the instructions.
@bigpaw64
From Warn:
SERVICING INSTRUCTIONS: Service at the same interval as wheel bearings. Clean and lightly grease
internal working surfaces.
So I was mudding and lost the whole damn hub now there's just a splined shaft sticking out and some worn out looking bolt holes. How big of a deal is that ?
@vipulaatthanayake
Your truck most likely has a closed knuckle dana 44. I would recommend swapping in a chevy Dana 44 or 10 bolt from 73-91 1/2 ton trucks with standard knuckles and disc brakes.
I will not put any Chevrolet JUNK ON my Ford. I know what caused my problem. Number one someone tried to weld a crack in the HUB. Well it did last for five years. Someone needed to go back to school. I am glad my wife and I were on a highway and made it home.the hub is very hard to find. I guess I was lucky or i knew the wright person.
DAMN, i wish i knew about the Mile Marker Hubs, i Just replaced my warns with new warn they cost $160,00 plus tax. maybe i can take them back really have not used them yet,
@Bigmanghs03 There are some videos on our channel. I recently sold it and started another one. I'm gonna try my best to keep it looking like a blazer. GOD Bless you too and Merry Christmas!
OK, I have taken the outside of the lockout off and the c-clip and the snap ring and it will not come out. Seems as if there is a burr on the spline keeping it from coming off. any recommendations would be appreciated.
@4wdFactory i just bought and installed a new set of warn premiun locking hubs and it says to apply grease to all the surfaces------printed at the very bottom of the directions------you may want to double check that!!!
1977 chevy k10 203 tcase adapter has already been installed have selectro hubs on it but they are worn out still work amazing though. want to install new hubs on it want some good ones all i have to do is gut the hub down to the nut and then install the hub gear then cap etc. but other then that,thats all i would need to do? a part number fro a hub kit would help out to as theres alot of them out there .
Could the hubs be replace without taking off the wheel?
i Hope someone could answer a question, i have an 1989 Bronco full size, i have the warn plastic dial they are about 10 yrs old this summer i was Not off road, one day i walked out to the truck and i noticed the one Hub was gone and all the Allen screws were broke off & the cap & dial was gone, Why or how do you think it happened, because i cannot figure it out, i bought new steel dial Warns...
@dbzgt545
They are around $160 which is much less than warns. Don't forget about our drive flanges either. Either way, we can make you a smokin deal. Let us know. Thanks!
@Bigmanghs03
We have them for about $110 plus shipping.
Joey whats the price on some WARN Premium Hubs for a 10BLT Chevy Front for an Ole ChevyK5 Blazer buddy!! Loving the Yukon Axles!!!
I have a 76 chevy (hence profile picture) and the lock out hubs are packed so full of grease that I can't even find the snap rings- anyway I got the mile marker hubs and I'm wondering if I have to disassemble the new hubs and install the parts into the existing hub rather than somehow sticking the whole new one onto the shaft?
When I did this on my 1974 Blazer kit came with parts to convert the transfer case to 2H/4H -2L/4L do you have a kit that does that
Saludos amigo !!
What manufacture hub do you prefer? The MM or Warn? I need to get a pair for my 71 Bronco with a D44.
I have a 90 dodge ram and changed it from auto lock to manual hub but they are not engaging. Any thoughts? I just had to be pushed in the snow because they wont lock in!
New to these MM hubs. You said "stainless". Are they? A stainless steel piece of metal hub? Or is that MM hub cover plastic, with a stainless steel coating? thanks
My problem is... I cant get the allen head screws out to pull the cap... ughhhh!!
If you have the locking hubs both engaged, could you drive around like that? I don't really know how they work. Is it like a cheap version of locking your rear axle?
I have a 77 chevy 3/4 full time 4x4 what will I have to change to put lockers in the hub
I have a 97 2500 dodge ram do you have locking hubs for it. Also will a ford hub fit of the same year was told it is the same axle. Thanks.
Can u over tighten those on the hub? The last outside small bolts? Mine won't disengage they are band new
ok thanks man
hi I got a stupid question. my old jeep dose not have any hubs... what dose that mean ?
@bigpaw64
By "grease" i assumed you were asking about packing grease in the hubs. We have people ask that question all the time.
try warn or super winch iv never broke either just got old plus i beat the shit out of my trucks to
i have a 1964 chev. K10 4x4 what kinda a front hub lock do i need ? does the dana 44/10 will work or do i need a different one
did I hear MM are 69$?! I paid $285 for my WARN premium hubs from Six States in Oregon.
For a 10 bolt / Dana 44? We have complete sets of Warn Premium hubs for $115.
Drew6709 you got ripped of my friend
No he didn't, he never shopped around
Hey, man i have a set of old warn hubs on my 82 ramcharger and it says there in lock position and the transmission is stuck in 4 wheel so is there a way i could replace them and make it go into reguilar drive thanks.
I have a 1990 dodge power ram 4x4 with manual locking hubs. I'm trying to remove the hub so I can replace my rotor. There doesn't appear to be an outer snap ring. It looks like the outer gear is built into the hub. Kinda hit a dead end. Any ideas?
Ovh
Aaron, realize this was years ago but did you get it figured out? I am stuck on the same damn thing
I have a 1979 1/2 ton stepside 4x4 full time 4wd , will I hurt the t.c. . if I drive it locked in all the time?
It shouldn't. It was made to be AWD. I presume it has the np203 transfer case. You can even leave the hubs locked in while the shift selector is in 2wd mode. I don't recommend it though because it puts a little extra drag into the system and will affect your mileage a little bit. New cars that are made to be AWD all the time use much lighter weaker components and they also use lighter oil for lubrication to keep the mileage losses to a minimum.
Is it the same concept as on dana 60s?
why no grease?????????
i have a question,i just got a 1979 F250 4x4 with under 90k on it and when i put my truck in 4 wheel drive it makes a loud grinding noise and now i just tried it again and i thought i was dragging around my drive shaft it was making alot of grinding noise but only in 4wheel drive both 4hi and 4low i cant figure out what it is can anyone help me?
Don’t get the mile marker ones that are plastic center. They’re junk.
Would these work for a 94 ford F150
as you say : "JUNK !"
hello. what are those pliers called ?? I cant find them on ebay .....
There called snap ring pliers you can buy them at any parts store
IMO Mile Marker hubs are JUNK! I broke 2, less than 1 year old, and dissected them, and MM finally send me a few parts to repair them, after I had the tech guy watch the video of them breaking. I don't know where they're made, but they should be sent back there, or dumped in the ocean! Feel free to watch my vids of them breaking, and me dissecting them at CORVAIRWILD/mile marker
Nope, check your snap rings.
no lub? wt?
U don't want any grease on them....cold weather they will hang up and not engage bc the grease gets too thick the spring won't overcome it
Can fit in dodge durango 2007 ...?
MM hubs junk..find an old pair of Spicer hubs and rebuild them...I had to replace a Spicer bc it got knocked off on a rock, didn't have an extra at time guess which hub failed the 4 month old MM took teeth right out of it..