Auto - Manual Locking Hub Conversion | 1980-1996 Ford Bronco F150 Dana 44 50 60 | Bronco Restoration
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Hello,
This video shows how to convert automatic locking hubs to manual locking hubs on the Dana 44 50 or 60 axel. The truck shown in this video is a 1995 Ford Bronco with the 3 bolt auto hub. The locking hubs shown are the Warn Premium, but this video will work on any compatible manual hubs.
Links:
Premium Locking Hubs: amzn.to/3RwZoRI
Standard Locking Hubs: amzn.to/3HB0S8Z
Spindle Nut Conversion Kit: amzn.to/3JKLV75
Manual Spindle Socket: amzn.to/3Y6fjZJ
Auto Spindle Socket: amzn.to/3YjE8Bc
Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3DJ8qW6
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Truck Specs:
1995 Ford Bronco
XLT Trim package
Lapis Blue exterior
Regetta Blue interior
5.8L 351 Windsor engine
E4OD 4 Speed overdrive Transmission
Manual on the Fly 4x4
3.55 Dana 44 Front Axle w/Manual hubs
3.55 Ford 8.8 Read end
15" Alcoa Aluminum wheels
31" BFG All terrain tires
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Bronco Videos Playlist:
czcams.com/users/pl....
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Listen man, I'm 24 i just got my childhood 91 F150 with 114K miles on it and it's currently being restored of my ability. Your video series that tackles these basic to complex tasks have been fantastic than any other channel that's demonstrated. Thank you. This channel is a lifesaver.
*Fun fact: My manual hubs are the original WARN hubs* But it needs a replacement. Luckily you made a video about it!
Thank you, those factory WARN hubs you have are made in USA. Unfortunately all new WARN hubs are made in China. You can actually rebuild your original hubs with used parts found online and in local salvage yards.
Thanks! I'm a young mechanic at a shop where I often get put on something new without the ability to ask for a ton of help due to the other techs being busy, channels like this are a lifesaver to make sure I do everything correctly!
Glad to help
That’s such a great idea that you’re going to preserve your automatic ones because they are getting expensive and hard to find.
Thank you, it’s nice to keep things nice
Good video - The high price grease seal you put on backwards . It goes back into the wheel bearing hub ,
I prefer using the manual hubs vs the auto, the Warn Standard Hubs are my go to as I do like the design and quarter lock vs the Premium full turn. I had an extra set of premium so that is why I installed them. If you are looking for a good manual hub, I recommend the Warn Standard.
Just bought a 1990 ford bronco and f150. I think your videos are gonna save my life lol😂😂
Awesome video man. Presentation is very "ChrisFix", wich I consider the highest compliment one can pay when it comes to automotive videos.
Keep it up!
Thank you, very much appreciated.
That was definitely very easy to do From Standard Automatic hubs to manual hub conversion on this 5th Gen Ford Bronco definitely not bad at all
The best mechanical video I have seen, Yet myself I have done it a few times , but the curiosity got my attention. I also liked the idea of don't use grease , I use havey engine oil, 20/50 like...it cant go anywhere. Grease seizes everything in the snow, as the system works by been activated with the help of a spring to engage and once unscrew, the coil spring it weakness the tension, and the oppose coil spring will disengage it, so, very sensitive, must move freely.
Nice clean truck sir wish my vehicle would stay like this in the midwest
The best video of this job i have seen, thumbs up great job !
Thank you.
Great video , well done!
Thank you.
At around 2:58 you had your parts laying on a diagram of the assembly. Do you know where I can find that online? It would be a big help. Thanks, and great video.
Exelent video, thank you.
Awesome vid and that camara angle and zoom is excellent... it's as if you're actually in the shop looking over your shoulder.... do you have a video of you servicing your old auto hubs ( if you haven't serviced yours yet can you make a video...) or do you know we're I can get info on servicing the hub assembly? Cleaning and regreasing it. Thanks
I can make a video of that soon, there are a couple different versions of the Ford auto hub. I haven’t dived into them yet and have them sitting on the shelf. You can find diagrams online from the official Ford service manual that can help with orientation. I know excessive grease can be detrimental, especially in colder climates.
@@TheFixTech Hello, Thanks TF. Yes I've looked at as many THREE screw automatic hub VID as CZcams will allow me to see. yours was the best... I found a set of brand new set of OEM hubs IN THE BOX online which includes @1:44 and @2:22 They came pregreased BUT my problem is the grease is more than 20 years old and even tho they were wrapped in plastic the grease has dried up a bit and is stiff..I'm not sure if it's too dry to instal just like that or if I should take them apart and clean and regrease them.. I have never seen a vid on servicing JUST the auto hub assembly. I've even tried looking for that exploded view of the auto hub assembly with no luck. I'm afraid that if I take that clip off I may get more than I bargained for lol. If you would do a vid I would be greatful, Thanks, Mr.b.
ps. Do you have a emai, facebook or IG? I'd like to send you some pics...
Thanks plan on doing this as well , is this any other disconnect needed from transfer case ? Or from 4x4 switch inside can - have 96 bronco 5.8 thanks
No other disconnect is needed. Your truck will have the two piece wheel seal as well. Be sure to set the bearing preload correctly.
Liked and subscribed. Thanks bud.
You have linked the 2 3/8 4wd lock nut socket not 2 1/2 like the tool you used
This is a great video. Where can I get the socket from?
Is the link for Auto spindle socket part # for a 2 3/8" or 2 1/2"? Looks like you where using a 2 1/2" in your video.
I have 1 ? Why would you want to swap automatic for manual?? I just shift into 4x4 without having to get out and getting my feet muddy can you please answer my?
It is personal preference for me, these auto hubs are very hard to find and are expensive. I chose to remove them and preserve them while choosing to use and abuse the manual hubs. The manual hubs are known to be stronger and will last longer. If not used properly I have seen the auto hubs snap and grind all teeth inside, the rarity and cost of replacing was enough for me to remove my fully working auto hubs and keep them on the shelf.
This is a great video. Where can I get the socket from? 3:25 3:25
You reckon he's done that before..lol
Did you grind down the outer wall of the socket to fit in the hub to remove axle nut? I bought the same exact socket and when I try to turn the socket, the rotor moves with the socket and doesn’t loosen without hitting the inside of the hub.
No, the socket should fit perfectly. There are different sizes, I believe it should be a 2 3/8. Also different rotors may be made differently.
@@TheFixTech might be my rotor then because the socket is 2 1/2 and fits on the axle nut but just won’t turn.
@@ivancastellano5685 i had to grind mine down too
What is the piece you pulled out at 2:15
This may be a stupid question, but I'm curious nonetheless. Does the 4x4 shifter in the cab become useless after the conversion or can you leave the hubs locked and use the shifter to still engage and disengage the 4x4? Looking to do this conversion on my '90 F150.
The shifter and hubs are used together, with manual or auto hubs, you still need both. The shifter engages the transfer case to the transmission. The hubs engage the front axle (which is connected to the transfer case) to the wheels themselves. I prefer the manuals hubs as they are stronger than the auto hubs.
So my question, I have a 86 Bronco. PO did the conversion already to manual. Bearings went out so time to change when I put all my new stuff in, the small snapring clip had no room to go on. Everything else went fine. Will it be ok to run without that and what would cause it? Great video and very helpful!!
The small snap ring is to keep the axel from sliding out of the housing, you can push on the axle from behind the hub, push it outward to be able to install the snap ring.
Where can I get the socket from?
What size, # of stickout nubs for the Spindle Hub Socket? I have the Dana 30/44 Premium Hubs on my YJ Wrangler (front D30) that I have to inspect and install new replacement hardware. It was originally installed almost 20 yrs ago. But I don't know the socket size. 🤔
When i tighten the outer nut to 160lbs the hub is really hard to move . What did i do wrong ?
You should have two spindle nuts and a lock washer, be sure to the first nut has the finger pointing outward, then install the lock washer onto the spindle and the holes in the lock washer should insert onto the finger of the first spindle nut. Then tighten the last spindle nut.
what size is the socket to take off the origional spindel nut.
Hi, well you send to my sight - after you get this all done. How do you get your outside new hubs to low and then to high ? You still turn your dash nob to 2 wheel high and then to low or high 4 wheel drive. No one on here on all the cool videos get to that main after part . Thanks and please send note to my sight .
Amigo buen video que numero de pastilla es ese modelo de la bronco 1995
Yes, the truck in the video is a 1995 Bronco
What benefit does converting it to manual serve? Would it not be more beneficial to not have to get out of your vehicle to put it into 4wd? Genuinely curious not trying to be rude.
I did this for the sake of preserving the original auto hubs as they are hard to find and can break if not properly used. The manual hubs are considered to be stronger, I only use my 4x4 for recreational use so I do not mind getting out and locking my hubs.
@@TheFixTech Thats fair I can see why you would then.
Thanks for the upload! I have an 88 bronco that has the “top hat” style locking hubs, I’ve heard that I would need to swap the spindles from the knuckle out, with the automatic hubs it seems as you didn’t have to change the spindles at all, would you happen to know if this is true for my rig?
Yes, the top hat style was unique and used for only 2 years. If you would like to use these warn or any other standard manual or even auto locking hubs, you will have to replace the spindle. There are a couple different spindle options that only affect the style of wheel seal used (does not affect style of hubs used). I recommend (as most do) the 1994- and below style spindle as they do not require the two piece seal. The two piece seal is not as durable as the standard one piece. Most people convert there two piece seal style spindle to the one piece design.
@@TheFixTech theoretically speaking, I would be able to use the spindles on a rig that has a automatic hub? I ask this because there is a 91 bronco sitting at a pick n pull that looks like it’s an automatic, can’t quite tell based on the angle of the photo that was took.
Thanks for the reply!
@@MasterKingTang Yes, that spindle will work and it will be a single style seal. You will still need the spindle nut conversion kit, or if you can find a used set of manual spindle nuts at the yard. The f150 will be the same.
@@TheFixTech I believe I have the spindle nuts, I took apart the top hat when I first the bronco to re-grease the bears and replaced the seal.
Thank you so much. Your videos have helped me tremendously on my project! The next thing to do is take apart the front differential to replace the side seals as they are leaking gear oil.
I’m working on my automatic hubs and can’t seem to get the spindle out far enough to get the 3 washers behind the c clip. Do they have to go in that order? Got any ideas if they all have to go on before the c clip?
Do you still need to hit the 4x4 or 4x4 low button on the dash to ingage the transfer case, or do the buttons become useless?
Yes, you still need to use the buttons. The buttons control the transfer case, the hubs control the axle to hub connection.
I noticed when you removed the thrust washer and shims when you put the new locking hubs on you didn’t put the new thrust washer back, is that correct? Based on that is it true to say that these thrust washers are no longer needed with this new locking system?
Correct, the manual locking hubs were a simpler design and only require the two nuts and spacer.
So the OEM manual locking hubs have the three piece thrust washer + C ring to prevent axle from sliding back but warn manual locking hubs only need the snap ring. Is that right?
Great video and explanation.
This is a great video. Where can I get the socket from?
What size was that manual spindle locknut socket you were using
This is a great video. Where can I get the socket from?
This is a great video. Where can I get the socket from?
This is a great video. Where can I get the socket from?
This is a great video. Where can I get the socket from?