Traxxas Slash to RC Dirt Oval, Setup and Build, Street Stock (Super Street)
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- čas přidán 24. 03. 2021
- In this episode we take a stock Traxxas Slash and convert it to a RC Dirt Oval race car!
A few different tutorials in this episode such as limiters, shock building, talking about some minor tuning and things of that nature.
The "Upgraded" parts used in the build to convert the Slash to a dirt oval car are the following:
-HobbyWing Justock ESC and 13.5 Brushless motor combo P/N HWA38020320
-Custom Works Big Bore Springs P/N CSW1820
-Proline Body Mounts PRO607000
-Shark LLC Caddy Shack CTS body for SCT Trucks (P/N Not available)
-DE Racing 2wd Slash Racing Wheels (Front) P/N DER-DS4-FB (Rear) P/N DER-DS4-RB
-Duratrax Bandito SC-M Dirt Oval Race Tires C3 P/N DTXC3801 or C2 P/N DTXC3800
(We usually keep a set of C3 and C2 tires ready as the different compounds can be beneficial.
-Limiters (I use 1/2" limiters all the way around) I dont personally like using the fuel line method. I like a good solid material. I used the JConcepts big bore limiter kit but has since been discontinued. Several places sell limiter spacers so other solid options are available.
Also as mentioned in the video, If you want/need more info and help with RC Dirt Oval tuning & setup; check out my "RC Dirt Oval Basic Setup & Tuning guide" episode by clicking on this link.
• RC Dirt Oval Basic Set...
Thank you all for the continued support and I hope some new racers find this information helpful.
2 minutes into this and I'm already on board, I've been looking all over for this type of build 👍 thanks!!
Jeremiah Story thank you! I appreciate the support and happy you found something you were looking for. I've got other builds, setup basics and more as well. Have plenty more coming too.
@@jbtricklerc awesome thanks again!
This is one of the best shock tutorials that I have came across
I greatly appreciate it and happy to see it helping racers!
@@jbtricklerc it put me in the right direction setting up my mudboss.
Thank you for the eyelet tip , it's going to help me out big time. I was to afraid to not tighten them all the way.
TGY TV Tim thank you for the feedback and happy to know someone found the tips helpful. The eyelet adjustment is an overlooked fine tuning option by many. Sometimes all you need is a turn or two on them for perfection.
Nice work on the Slash. Thanks for explaining what the requirements are to race.
No problem, Robert. I greatly appreciate the comment! Hope you have a blast in your RC racing adventures!
Another great vid!!!👍👍👍
Thank you Jason Starnes! I greatly appreciate it.
Just watching the videos and wanted to echo the shoutout for Shark Bodies. I’m only a year or so into a slash late model class and most guys run Shark Bodies. I ordered a body then emailed Shark 3-4 times asking for mounting tips, spoiler tips, etc. Even months after my order they still respond promptly and graciously to any of my newb questions. Not to mention top notch bodies to go with the top notch customer service!
Absolutely, its a great company and great group of guys. I follow them on facebook and enjoy the humor as well.
been racing indoor RC dirt oval now going on 3 years. My son and I really like it. We run 3 different classes in it.
Leeroy thats awesome to hear! I see some enjoy it as a family hobby at many tracks. Looking forward to having my son race with me more this year too. I greatly appreciate the support and comment.
nice video thank you jb i just got the lcg 4x4 slash im building from the ground up for racing and your knowledge is appreciated keep the good videos coming get ur done
Awesome to hear Mario! And thank you for the support and kind words. I greatly appreciate it.
Not sure if everyone watching this video knows, but there is a tool specifically designed for holding the suspension shaft when removing it/ the parts for a rebuild / build etc. Just search rc suspension pliers and you’ll see a variety of manufacturers. I have a TRF bran I think…use it for my Tamiya tt01 that I use in club racing. As a side note, scratching the shaft will affect performance of the suspension e.g can tear the rubber o-rings over time(if you’re chosen suspension uses o-rings) may affect how smooth the shaft ravels …ideally when building re-building shocks you need to take care as if you do it wrong, it may seem fine initially but when out on track it can affect performance.
Just found your channel, sir, and I must say I'm really enjoying your content! Thanks a lot! :D
24:00 - I took a pair of thin needle nose pliers and cut 2 pieces of vacuum hose, about an inch long each, and slid each one right over the jaws... They work great for holding shock shafts and things without damaging them.
Billy I'm so glad to hear you are enjoying the channel. Thank you for the support as well. Oh yeah the vacuum hose or fuel line truck works well too. I've seen them used as limiters and/or bump stops.
Great vid. We live in southern missouri we typically run associated buggies but shark bodies run supreme in this area. It is amazing how a body can completely change you car for the better, handling wise. McAllister also has a popular body in this area called the crowd pleaser and it is gaining momentum in the area.
Brandon I agree. I love the Shark bodies as I still occasionally race the Street Stock class as well. McAllister also has a great selection and have had excellent experience from them as well. Either company is a great choice especially for the buggy or true 1/10 scale options.
Hi. What Team associated buggie are you using for your Dirt late Model. THANKS ??
@@davidblack5551 I have the 6.2d as mine and the 6.3 are starting to show themselves. But the b5m is still very popular as well
Good Job!
Thanks Michael Rutherford!
Great base to build a stock car on!
Adit absolutely! Many of the most popular classes run them.
Great video👌 I subscribed
Thanks Ollis RC Cars. I greatly appreciate it!
JB! Awesome video buddy. I’m a 1RC guy and looking to step up to the next level. I hope to see you in October at the Kennan classic in Wisconsin.
Ryan, I greatly appreciate the support and comment! I'm going to talk to a few buddies of mine and see if we can arrange a trip.
About to buy one and get started
Awesome to hear! You're going to have a blast
Really enjoying the videos hope to see you at Easley one weekend
Thanks Jeff I greatly appreciate it. I race out there often so stop by to say hello when you do.
@@jbtricklerc I will be there Saturday with my 8.0 truck
@@jeffaldrich6755 I'm hoping to make it this weekend as well. That's the plan but some needed house work may change that lol. Fingers crossed.
Awesome
Short Tracking I appreciate the comment and support. Ive got a follow-up video planned in the future for this as well.
I love racing just don’t have a track within two hours of me. Great video
Thank you David. I appreciate it. It's a blast for sure! It's worth the occasional travel to race when you can.
Hey guys before u do anything make sure you check your local rules ... And check your springs and check your limits and make sure u don't do anything until you check your rules and then ................. " Man's gotta know his limitations" Clint Eastwood.
Absolutely, always check your local rules. This is a popular class and many places all over are running them but.... some locations have different set of rule packages that may or may not allow certain changes.
Subed befor I even watched
Dallas, I greatly appreciate the support and subscribe!
@JBTrickleRC No prob bro! I do more dirt track sprint car racing but have a slash of my own! Thanks for the great vid! I knew just bye the title and face that it would be a good vid👍
@@dallaskibberacing I really do appreciate the kinds words and support! Best of luck at your next race! Thank you again.
@@jbtricklerc keep it up man no problem
Great video, question would you still add 1/2 limiters to shocks if you had the lcg chassis
That's a great question and yes, I did as well as others I race with. I've since converted mine to a LCG chassis as well and I kept the same limiters in. If you have issue with chassis slapping the track you could take a bit out, unscrew the shock ends a bit or a add a bit more preload. All of which can effect setup and would require a bit of fine tuning however I have not had any chassis slapping issues. The LCG brings the whole chassis down to where the current bulkheads sit pretty much on the stock chassis.
Hey there JB, any input on the different impacts of camber to loosen and tighten the car? The Slash class I run there isn’t a lot of adjustments you can make in between heats besides preload spacers or changing the shock oil. I’m curious if there is a general rule of thumb like “more negative camber on the Right rear to loosen exit” (not sure that’s even right). But interested in what impacts camber would have on each corner of the car?
Low asteam great question and I'm going to give you my personal opinion on it.
Take your Traxxas car and grab any wheel and wiggle it. Each wheel has probably 3 if not more degrees of wobble. That's a plus or minus of 3 or more degrees in camber whether you have set your camber or not. Generally, I myself and many other racer I know, set the camber on these Traxxas street stocks, mudbosses, etc by the tire wear. We do this by looking at how the tires are after making a run on the track and by making sure the contact patch of the tire is at its most full and even wear. You can end up with some crazy camber settings with this method but with the crazy amount of wobble these cars naturally have it's a give and take. By doing this the camber change can change the handling of the car (usually for the better).
Old school rule of thumb. Typically, more negative camber on the right front and positive on the left front will increase steering. But too much you'll be on the edge of the tire.
However, most tuning I do with these cars is shock oils, spring changes or preload shim adjustments.
Great video!! Will your parts list work for a 4wd slash with and without a LCG chassis?
Injest100 thank you for the support and reply. Honestly, I'm not sure. I have very little experience with the Slash 4x4. However, I do know for sure the proline body mounts that I used are very different between the 2wd and 4wd version. So if you use those make sure you get the 4wd version.
Great video
I’d like more info about camber. For instance if you’re showing wear (suppose outer left of left wheels) which way do you adjust? That’s just an example…thanks
I appreciate the comment and support. The answer is it depends on what your camber setup already is. So many variants of camber choices etc. But my rule of thumb is adjust them to where the wear is most even. Sometimes you can't accomplish that and some tires will just about always wear a little off to one side etc. But adjust them the best you can. That's what I always did and gave great success.
JB, Thanks again for your shows, we find them to be most helpful. I have a question on springs. Does Custom Works sell a complete set of big bore springs. I see That
A--Main offers a complete set of 9 pairs of 1.75" springs, CSW1800. These are not Big Bore, Will this work for this project or would I needs to buy the Bog Bore springs one pare at a time? Also would I need to change the soring buckets? Do you know if Custom Works offers a Big Bore spring set? if so what length would I need, short or long? Thanks again for you help.
Michael I really appreciate your comment and support! Great question as well. The Custom works big bore spring kit I recommend is p/n CSW1820. This will included two of 4 different spring rates (They are all the same size length and that is fine). Also, I recommend the Integy Spring kit as well for a left reat tune. I use the Custom works big bores all the way around but sometimes tune the left rear with the Integy slash spring kit set p/n INTT7984. Hope you find this info helpful and best of luck to you in your RC racing adventures.
Hahah u make dope vids! I use inshot for the added gifs. Yea our class is similar out here but like you said there is different rules, but still good information!!! What's it take to prove yourself to get on the team? Who ever is brave enough to swig the shock oil crap cup? I also enjoyed the vandalism of Mikeys car and the hand gesture like Vanna white statuses....
p.s.
the cool 80s intro is also dope AF
AWESOME VIDS!
LordDecrepido I greatly appreciate the support and comment. Yeah I just like to have fun when I can. Here to entertain, help newer racers when I can and promote this awesome hobby. The team was a fun local couple of guys I race with. All in fun. Each of us seem to have shifted focus in various areas of the RC hobby now which is cool. With the mystery of what "secrets" people put in their RC cars for "competitive advantages" I would take a swig from anything hahahaha.
Great video JB! Any tips for tuning with the preload spacers for folks like me that have to run stock springs?
Low aSteam great qeustion! a few variables to add to that question. Are you running limiters or no limiters allowed? if no limiters its tricky because too much raises the center of gravity too far and not enough the car will be ill handling. It can be tricky finding that happy medium. If you are allowed to run limiters I'd try one thick spacer on each rear one one 1/8" spacer on the fronts as a baseline and then tune one small clip at a time to get it handling how you want. The biggest things is once you find what it likes and handling well make sure you right it down on paper or on a setup sheet so you dont forget. I start every race day out on my baseline setup and tune as necessary from there. taking it one clip at a time will help. Also, from my experience, I find myself tuning (adding or removing shims) mostly on the right front and left rear. I hope this was helpful and I wish you the best of luck and success in your RC racing adventures. Thank you for the support!
Also, even with the stock springs, I still find running heavier oil on the right side vs the left helps with rollover and handling too. By adding the thicker spacer in the rear and thinner in the front will somewhat mimic the "heavier springs in the rear and lighter up front" section of the video that you seen here. The cars seem to like that especially on our racing surfaces which is generally a med to high bite clay.
@@jbtricklerc Thank you JB. I’m horrible about trying this or that but never taking any notes on what I done or how it impacts the car. I do run 1/2 inch limiters all the way around. Some of the guys at my local track run 1/2 on the left and 1/4 on the right. I just always felt tight when I done that.
@@lowasteam5319 I hear ya there. Notes mean way more than people realize. Its very critical in my opinion. We think we can remember everything but its the small details that we usually forget and mean much more than we realize.
Awesome video man! I’m just getting into mudboss and had a question based on springs, I am running limiters also adjusting oils but I would like to get after market springs to mess with! Custom works has a big bore spring set, is that what you recommend? And also what would you see the car be doing for you to make a spring adjustment? Once again thanks for everything, your videos are teaching me a ton!
Thanks for the feedback and support Tyler I greatly appreciate it. The Custom Works big bore springs is what I used in the video. Seems to be a popular choice around here. Also the Integy slash springs as well. I'd change springs depending on if the car is right or loose. Entry and exit can differ too. I have a dirt oval basic setup and Tuning tutorial here on the channel as well. The link is in the description and I go over much of what you questioned about what you should look for and when to make a change. Check that one out too. Good luck in your racing adventures. Get that Mudboss rolling and winning!
@@jbtricklerc much appreciated my man! Gonna try my best haha real racing is starting so it’s time to sit the RC stuff a bit but I’m definitely gonna try my best to get it out there in the dirt where I’m home! Good luck this season and look forward to seeing more videos! And just a heads up, I would highly recommend doing more Traxxis stuff along with the late model stuff you will pull more viewers I’m sure of that, a lot of entry people in RC CZcams all the Traxxis tips and tricks!
@@tylerleese5009 thank you again and best of luck to you as well. Funny you say that. I'm planning more specific race coverage this year as well. Traxxas being one of them.
Just curious what size body do you use for the traxxas? Shark bodies has a 12" and a 10".
Hey Brandon it's the bodies specified for the SCT's not the buggy's. I can't remember the actual dimension but the SCT size bodies are for the Slash and the buggy bodies are for the smaller 1/10 Scale type cars.
Come on down to Florida and run on sand, lots of fun and no traction. Love the vids
Thanks Dave, I greatly appreciate it and I would definitely enjoy racing on some sand. I may make it that way one day.
JB, and.... I’m back with another question. Most of the guys where I race, run slash front wheels all the way around. I believe the fronts have a different offset making them a little wider. Is there an advantage in doing that versus running fronts in the front and rears in the rear?
Also, really appreciate your videos and willingness to help out the community. Thank you!
Thanks Low aSteam I appreciate the support and kind words. I'm aware of it. I only tried it once (by accident as well 🤣) and started getting some weird wear on the wheel. Probably just coincidence or it may have had to do with it riding on the axle more and less of the hex. I haven't done it since then. The reason some are doing it is likely because moving your wheels (either front or rear) can affect corner entry and exit. So they are likely using it for a tuning option. I talk about this in my dirt oval basic setup and Tuning guide. Though I'm using a purpose built car in the video the same info applies to the slash as well.
@@jbtricklerc best response time on CZcams. Thanks JB!
For a spec super stock class like you are describing, is a slash 2wd vxl brushless typically not allowed even though it’s a stock truck?
Great question and I believe this is going to be addressed more soon, if not already by a lot of tracks that race these cars. The Brushless versions are becoming more popular and in higher numbers. Typically, a brushed and brushless slash car wont be raced together unless its a breakout class. so for say Super Street or super Stock, they will want to keep the electronics the same across the class. There is a possibility that they will go to the stock VxL setup in the future. Or they may keep the hobbywing 13.5 setup in it. Typically thats been the case, but I've seen a lot of interest in the VXL being used.
Wow! This is awesome! Just happened upon your channel! Loving the content, I'd love to get into racing, hopefully I can learn how! Where are you from, I live in south western Virginia. Subbed! Have a great weekend! 👍😎👍
Thanks Poppy's RC & Models. I'm in South Carolina. Lots of awesome racing facilities near me so I'm into all kinds of RC related hobbies. Appreciate the support!
You explained positive and negative camber and talked about your baseline amount, but wasn’t sure what combo you were using as far as left versus right side camber. I understand it completely with stock cars which I race just thought that I heard the front end is looked at differently in RC cars because of their caster when they turn.
Great video
Dasizniz, the RC world can be extremely similar to actual cars and yet different in certain areas as well. For example, a purpose built RC Oval car will typically be setup with camber very similar to a real car. The Traxxas Slash cars can differ because you are restricted to the stock parts in most cases and not designed for this purpose. This causes some creative experimenting. So I basically setup my slash camber to even wear pattern and tune it into that. A Custom Works or GFRP purpose built car I'll usually put 1.5 to 2 degrees camber all the way around Left side positive and right side negative. So it really depends on car, class and type of racing.
Thanks for the info. I started last year and got a TLR 22 5.0 and made huge gains from the beginning of the year to the end. Just now trying to fine-tune some things like camber, ride height, and mess around with spring rate a little bit more
@@Dasizniz Awesome to hear and it sounds like you are on the right track! Keep it up and best of luck in all your RC adventures! Thank you for the support and comment.
What classes can you run with the slash 2wd hcg? Late model, mudboss and etc?
Some areas have slightly different rules. But around here there's breakout, bomber, 13.5 Mudboss and super street.
I heard the traxxas rustler (which i own) shares a lot of parts with the slash...what parts do i need to turn my rustler into a mudd boss?
Thats a great question, but I cannot speak from experience. All my Traxxas knowledge is with the Slash 2wd version itself. Then there's also a good bit of differences between a 2wd Slash and 4X4 slash just like a 2wd rustler and a 4X4 Rustler. If its a 2WD Rustler, I would imagine the conversion would be similar in areas but still differ in others.
Jb, does this take 12" wide body? Are there any rules on body, wing, etc?
Hey Buzz. I'm not sure how it why I missed this comment. But I can't remember the exact width of the bodies, I believe you're correct. But just make sure it's a SCT street stock body and not a Buggy body and you should be good.
Jb, what backspacing do you suggest on wheel purchase
Good question. I still personality use the stock slash back spacing. Some classes require it. I have seen people run rear to front and front to rear to help in fine tuning to track condition. But all still stock here.
I would love to see a hobbywing esc setup video, a newby here with slash oval racing, yet og in rc cars
BC awesome idea. Anything specific or just a normal ESC setup video?
I think basic for now, I'm planning on using hobbywing for my slash in the future. Getting parts a little at a time as funds permit. Do you have to have a different esc say for a 13.5 and another for say a 17.5 motor?
@@BC-rc We pretty much use the Hobbywing Justock in all our spec classes including the 13.5 class. Some run it in the 17.5 class as well but other brands are allowed in 17.5.
My track is saying we have to run stock spur and pin gear. They said 86 is stock spur but my car came with 90. The pin has to be 19. Will the 86/19 be better then the 90/19
Hey Bryan, Sorry I missed this comment. Sometimes the notifications don't come through. From my experience building several different cars, 90 is the stock gear and 86 is the gear we all change over to run per class rules (in most classes as we do have stock gear classes). If you have to run the 19 pinion, the 90 stock gear would be better, but I'd verify that information with them.
Which esc and motor are you using, thank you for time
John for this class we were running the HobbyWing Justock ESC and the Hobby Wing Justock 13.5 motor. We have a couple classes that run the Justock 10.5 motors as well.
Is there a website or link somewhere to find dirt oval tracks all over the USA? I use to race asphalt years ago in Easley, SC.
Richard, Thats a great question. I'm not sure if there is or not. I usually just follow them on Facebook. But if you are still local to the Upstate SC area, there is the Dirt Oval at Easley (Same place as the paved oval track), Fountain Inn RC Complex, and American RC in Anderson South Carolina. You can follow their pages on Facebook for schedules, updates and such. If you are not still local to SC, I'd search Facebook for the state you are in and dirt RC tracks. If they have one, It will usually pull up there. I hope this helps.
What chassis is under the #51 car in the background ???? Also who makes that body ???
That's a GFRP Havoc 3.2 with a custom works buckeye body on it. I have other episodes featuring that car as well. I appreciate the comment.
Hey JB love your videos. I'd like to set up a camera to record my build for future reference when building my sons car to same specs and was wondering if you could provide any tips on your camera setup - your video quality looks great! Are you using a cell phone or conventional camera? What brand of mount do you have for fixing the camera to your work bench? It also looks like you have a wide angle lens - do you find the camera ever gets in your way having it mounted so close to your body/any thoughts on mounting camera in overhead position? A video will save this 'ol codger from having to take notes for all the different steps I have to remember and my arthritic hands could use a break! Sure appreciate any advice you can provide!!
Hey T Dubb. I greatly appreciate the support and kind words. I mainly use a Go Pro, I believe for this video I was still using a Hero 7 but i've since upgraded to the Hero 9. A modern smart phone had a great camera as well and I have streamed and filmed with my phone before as well. As far as mounts go, I used the generic offbrand Go-Pro and phone mounts off of amazon. They are the Clamp on style that has segmented extensions so you can bend it and point it however you please. I hope you found this helpful. Thank you again.
Thanks for the quick reply and all the great info JB, you rawk!!
Hey JB my name is Kyle . I’m putting together a new street stock slash to get into dirt oval this year at Easley. Before diving into the super street class I’ll try to keep the titan motor alive a while. Anyways I can’t seem to find the rules info. Where do I look to see the rules for car setup ?
Hey, No problem. If you go to facebook and visit the grass roots racing series page they will have the rules posted under their photos tab. If you cant find it there, Fountain Inn RC complex will have the rules in their pictures tab as well.
@@jbtricklerc thank you sir!
what size limiters in the rear???
1/2" all the way around is what I ran. I'm pretty sure I said that in the video. If not, my apologies.
My local track says you can use any 2WD short course truck in the Bomber class as long as you run a Titan 12T brushed motor. Does a LCG Chassis make that much of a difference in the handling?
Bryan great question and most definitely. Running these cars with a high center gravity chassis can cause it to want to roll over in the corners especially in high bite surfaces. The lcg chassis helps that a lot. Much of that can also be tuned with shock oils and springs.
@@jbtricklerc Great! Thanks for the quick response. I'll definitely be using an LCG chassis then
@@NikkiNexo777 No problem at all. I'm happy to help when I can.
Hi, what are those wheels?! Thanks!
Xman those are the DE Racing wheels. They have them in black and gray. My favorites to use as well.
I know it's a old video and I ask ypu questions all the time but I have another one again lol. Is there a standard on ride height for the lcg chassis slash. We call our class factory stock and it's open electronics and has to be a stock chassis and de tires only. I'm currently running just stock slash ride height and was curious if there is a standard ride height number to set the chassis too
No worries Jeff. I'm happy to help when I can. The ride height depends on the class rules for sure. The only real way you'll see a ride height difference is if you're allowed to run after market springs, cut the stock springs or add/run limiters inside the shocks. The stock springs in factory form have soooo much compression if you're not allowed to change them it would be hard to make a difference. But, as far as ride height numbers go. I always got it as low as I could without it slapping the track. I did have approx 1/2" limiters inside all 4 shocks and running the custom works big bore springs allowed for a lower ride height.
I hope that helps.
@jbtricklerc yes that does help. I'm currently running ae big bore shocks on my slash with cw springs amd purchased some nylon tubbing for limiters but didn't know how low to go and couldn't find any Info anywhere. Lol. Another question does it hurt when the arms are not inline with the hinge pins? Obviously there going to be in a v shape now that I have shortened the shocks
@@jeffbryner5355 happy to hear it helps. I never had any issues. In fact with limiters it's common to see it squat past the parallel point. Making a "V" shape.
Just make sure in Practice the chassis isn't slapping the track or dragging on throttle.
what video editor do u use or your intro
*for*
A good friend of mine originally created my intro for me. But overall I use adobe premiere Studio.
@@jbtricklerc cool
So what about Rpm upgrades i know those aren't box stock but it sounds like the hole car has to be box stock and I thought most tracks ran the Lcg chassis cause I was planning on upgrading mine.
Jacob Cushman great questions. Each track/location can be a bit different so I recommend to any racer looking to upgrade to first check the rules and/or visit their race tracks before changing anything. The class this car was built for "Super Street" "Traxxas Street Stock" has strict rules that states the only things we can change are the Springs, shock oils, motor and ESC and tires (Hobby Wing Justock 13.5 motor and ESC, Bandito, Hoosier DE Phenom tires) . No RPM upgrades, no LCG chassis plate allowed. All must remain stock Traxxas parts other than was mentioned above.
However, the 10.5 Latemodel class largely follows the same rules but uses the Hobby Wing 10.5 motor, but does allow the LCG chassis and runs a late model body.
Our Breakout classes that which are heavily Traxxas Slash based won't matter. While most remain box stock, no rules in our breakout require that. So RPM and LCag chassis's could be used there.
At the end of the day it really depends on which class you race as each one will have varying rules and guidelines. Best of luck racing at your next event and hope you have a blast!
Thanks i appreciate luckily stock brand new slashes are pretty cheap during Christmas time maybe ill just turn my upgraded slash in to a backslash speed car for now Thanks.
@@GearWorksRc don't let it stop you from going out and racing with it. Most places have a class category it could/would fit in with. Some may even allow you to run it as is until you can get the parts changed or another one built. Visit the track and check them out. Have fun a d best of luck.
Have you got a list of upgrades that was done? Put them in show notes please. :)
Hey Jeff, I added the part list in the description as well to try and help out. I appreciate the support.
@@jbtricklerc Oh wow, your awesome. Thanks :) 👍
@@jbtricklerc Subbed :)
@@jeffsrcchannel2191 thank you! I greatly appreciate it!
Love your videos, just started watching a few month ago, my local track does a few different ovla race, Im going to be doing what they call Nascar Thunder truck, basically a Slash LCG base. Do you or have you done any videos about this particular style?
Peter, I greatly appreciate the comment and support! That sounds awesome! I have not done any videos on that specifically but some or much of the information may translate. If you can tell me the type of surface your racing on I may be able to to help further.
What if you have the LCG Chassis ?
Same scenario actually. Most stays exactly the same. You're just bringing the chassis down even with the bulk heads with a LCG chassis plate. I can say that confidently as I've done both hcg and LCG cars.
@@jbtricklerc is their a class I can run with the LCG chassis ?
@@mikenva111 there is a class for almost everyone. They have a couple LCG class options. I recommend visiting the Grassroots Racing series page in Facebook and look over their class rules and descriptions. They have them posted in the picture section. Extremely helpful info there.
Had me all the way Into cutting the bump stop saying that they arnt needed
It depends on what you want to do and the setup you are looking for. Since we run internal shock limiters and custom works big bore spring kits (as mentioned and shown in the video), keeping the bump stop would affect the overall shock length of travel and minimize it further which is not wanted for this particular setup. If you want to keep the bump stop and also use the shock setup with limiters as mentioned in the video. I would recommend cutting them to be shorter so your shock can have more travel as the limiters take some of that away. There is always more than one way to do it, I'm just sharing my experience and a tested and proven method for our area of racing. I appreciate the comment and wish you the absolute best in all your RC racing adventures.
@@jbtricklerc yea for sure I definitely see what your talking about I was kinda being over dramatic because how much dirt late models at least in woo and Lucas oil rely on bump stops
Where can i get a body like that?
Rambo Gutierrez that is a body made by Shark Bodies LLC. They have a website and a Facebook page. Just be sure to order the correct size body. SCT size for slash. The other sizes are for buggies. Big difference. I just like clarifying that as I had a friend order the wrong size before. www.sharkrcbodies.com/
I have a sr10, i want a different body for it. Ill look it up thanks!
@@RambStreetMutant awesome and you're very welcome. If it's for a SR10 you'll want the buggy size bodies. They have a good selection as well.
Thanks for the quick response!! I sure will!
@@RambStreetMutant I'm happy to help when I can.
You guys can't run a LCG chassis?
Hey David. Not in the super street or box stock classes. But in Mudboss and 10.5 Latemodel they allow it.
@@jbtricklerc awesome. Thx for the response!
@@dboogeman2002 no problem. I appreciate the support and comment.
@@dboogeman2002 Anytime. I'm happy to help when I can
Too much man ,really ,how many times do you think you have to repeat your self, this is why I haven't subscribed !
Thanks for watching Ryan. Wish you the best in your RC Racing Adventures 😁
It’s all “late model” or “super late-model” ain’t nothing else!
Hey Jason, I appreciate the comment and support. I'm curious about your comment. Do they not have street stock class options where you race?