I use the really sticky 3M automotive exterior double sided tape, it's kinda foamy and pliable so in addition to holding the rail on, it kinda acts as a bit of extra clamping force when the foam compresses and also absorbs any vibrations. Works great.
I find a nice tip when fitting rails is to heat them up with a hot air gun and bend them around to follow the contour of the side of the board. It works really well on Shaped boards but not a lot of point on popsicles.
There's no need on a shaped deck either though. The axis on which you do boardslides on is perpendicular to essentially the wheelbase. Having rails that curve around the contour and do not follow that straight perpendicular line, will more so throw you off than be a benefit. It terms of board concave throughout the width of the board, you're going to want to find the best spot for the rails for the board to not catch on to rails or ledge in slides on its 'board belly' area. Some rails are pretty soft and allow for boardslides to hit the middle of the board anyway, but position places a massive role too. Last but not least, what might appear most aesthetically pleasing might not always be most functional at all.
I drill holes through the rails and the deck and insert wooden pins through the deck and the rail, so the screws don't suffer from the impact and you get a very solid connection
I just came across this issue recently when moving my rails around and tightening them down by hand. I find a power drill set to resistance 5 works best for me. It sinks it deep quickly and cleanly, I find if you do it by hand I found it harder to fully secure the screw into the deck, and as a result have a screw on each rail not fully secured and the rattle is such a bother. I will give this a try next time thanks, nice setup!!
Yeah man, another thing I’ve found is to do a test fit and then take them off and get rid of the deck that has been pulled up by the screw as this stops the rail seating right down. I’ve since switched to Santa Cruz rails and they have the backs cut out to accommodate this, so it’s just a case of screwing them on, Santa Cruz are the only ones I’ve found that do that ??
@@JonBishopSkate I have the Santa Cruz ones too and noticed that, I got creature ones first and since they are both NHS they are made exactly the same. I was specifically wanting white rib bones for my ripper reissue deck but put on green ones instead while waiting since I couldn't find white ones at the time. I bought white Santa Cruz ones recently but apparently they have different screw placement so if I put the Santa Cruz ones on I wouldn't be able to put on rib bones later on. I wish all the drill holes for different rail brands would be equal but apparently they are not! And that is a good idea, I've noticed even the plastic can shave off and cause it to rise too, you almost need to hit it with course sandpaper and rub it smooth and floss out the excess wood and plastic from the holes and it would work perfectly.
As you scre the rails on it creates a raised burr on the deck surface. Only sure way to prevent chatter is to remove the rail, deburr the hole and your rail will sit flush with the deck. No rattles and no need to tighten the screws to the point of fainting.
Yeah, I know what you mean. I find that drilling out the holes slightly allows for this so you get a snug fit without having to take the rail off again?
Used to ride rails back in the 80s . Now back in the game as a fellow middle aged skater I’m thinking about getting some more . Thanks for the great content delivered with a sense of humour as always. What size wheels you skate? I’m guessing 58/60?
Really like your channel. Wondering what size Seismic tail and nose guards you used. Is it possible for you to measure them?? Wanting to order some for my 8.45 Anderson deck. Many thanks
I've put on two sets of rails in my life. Both had way too small holes for the screws that came with the rails. Is there a reason a for this or what's the point? Getting your drill out and drilling those holes bigger is definitely worth the effort!
@@JonBishopSkate Yep, trying to push that screw head in with just hand tools with the deck wobbling on the floor really makes one question the point of it all :)
@@JonBishopSkate Thank Jon, After researching somewhat more, diamond rails are 14mm where most others are 10mm. Also liljawnsrails look better than most
I asked my local shop 2 install my rail guards... They tried and but the wood chipped and the rail wouldnt stick... I asked andy what 2 do and he said 2 hand screw it.. But now I'm not sure what to do about the nose bone and tail bone.. Especially cuz the flight deck wood is so hard.. Thanx man loove the content
Yeah it’s personal preference. Advantages are - - Less friction for board slides - More stability on concave boards for rocks and Boardslides - Something to grab for grabs - Saves the graphics Downsides - Adds weight - Some don’t like the look - costs money - it’s a pain if they rattle
I use the really sticky 3M automotive exterior double sided tape, it's kinda foamy and pliable so in addition to holding the rail on, it kinda acts as a bit of extra clamping force when the foam compresses and also absorbs any vibrations. Works great.
Yeah dude, I’ve used similar stuff and it’s ace!
I find a nice tip when fitting rails is to heat them up with a hot air gun and bend them around to follow the contour of the side of the board.
It works really well on Shaped boards but not a lot of point on popsicles.
There's no need on a shaped deck either though. The axis on which you do boardslides on is perpendicular to essentially the wheelbase. Having rails that curve around the contour and do not follow that straight perpendicular line, will more so throw you off than be a benefit. It terms of board concave throughout the width of the board, you're going to want to find the best spot for the rails for the board to not catch on to rails or ledge in slides on its 'board belly' area. Some rails are pretty soft and allow for boardslides to hit the middle of the board anyway, but position places a massive role too. Last but not least, what might appear most aesthetically pleasing might not always be most functional at all.
I drill holes through the rails and the deck and insert wooden pins through the deck and the rail, so the screws don't suffer from the impact and you get a very solid connection
Thanks for the tips Jon
Great content as always!!👏🤙
I just came across this issue recently when moving my rails around and tightening them down by hand. I find a power drill set to resistance 5 works best for me. It sinks it deep quickly and cleanly, I find if you do it by hand I found it harder to fully secure the screw into the deck, and as a result have a screw on each rail not fully secured and the rattle is such a bother. I will give this a try next time thanks, nice setup!!
Yeah man, another thing I’ve found is to do a test fit and then take them off and get rid of the deck that has been pulled up by the screw as this stops the rail seating right down. I’ve since switched to Santa Cruz rails and they have the backs cut out to accommodate this, so it’s just a case of screwing them on, Santa Cruz are the only ones I’ve found that do that ??
@@JonBishopSkate I have the Santa Cruz ones too and noticed that, I got creature ones first and since they are both NHS they are made exactly the same. I was specifically wanting white rib bones for my ripper reissue deck but put on green ones instead while waiting since I couldn't find white ones at the time. I bought white Santa Cruz ones recently but apparently they have different screw placement so if I put the Santa Cruz ones on I wouldn't be able to put on rib bones later on. I wish all the drill holes for different rail brands would be equal but apparently they are not! And that is a good idea, I've noticed even the plastic can shave off and cause it to rise too, you almost need to hit it with course sandpaper and rub it smooth and floss out the excess wood and plastic from the holes and it would work perfectly.
As you scre the rails on it creates a raised burr on the deck surface. Only sure way to prevent chatter is to remove the rail, deburr the hole and your rail will sit flush with the deck. No rattles and no need to tighten the screws to the point of fainting.
Yeah, I know what you mean. I find that drilling out the holes slightly allows for this so you get a snug fit without having to take the rail off again?
@@JonBishopSkate yeah, you can countersink the holes on the back to put them on once
Thanks
I got rails for that same board, had to watch
Nice one, this is my updated video
czcams.com/video/mG9KjoDTEH4/video.html
Used to ride rails back in the 80s . Now back in the game as a fellow middle aged skater I’m thinking about getting some more . Thanks for the great content delivered with a sense of humour as always. What size wheels you skate? I’m guessing 58/60?
Hey dude,
55mm on the mini ramp and street.
60mm in t’ bowl !!
Really like your channel. Wondering what size Seismic tail and nose guards you used. Is it possible for you to measure them?? Wanting to order some for my 8.45 Anderson deck. Many thanks
Hey Dude
There was just the one option when I ordered? I trimmed mine down with an angle grinder, so I fear measuring won’t help sadly?
I've put on two sets of rails in my life. Both had way too small holes for the screws that came with the rails. Is there a reason a for this or what's the point? Getting your drill out and drilling those holes bigger is definitely worth the effort!
Yeah, it’s strange as it really messes up the fitting if the holes are too small!!
@@JonBishopSkate Yep, trying to push that screw head in with just hand tools with the deck wobbling on the floor really makes one question the point of it all :)
What are the tallest rails for a really concave wide deck? wanna save my graphic without them being too close to the center of the deck
Hey dude,
I think the Powell ones are the tallest I’ve tried. Pig are lower, Santa Cruz Slimline are somewhere in between??
@@JonBishopSkate Thank Jon, After researching somewhat more, diamond rails are 14mm where most others are 10mm. Also liljawnsrails look better than most
Can you demonstrate how 2 install the nose and tail bone?
Hey Dude
I used the same process as the rails. Double sided tape to locate and then just drill the holes for the screws ?!!
I asked my local shop 2 install my rail guards... They tried and but the wood chipped and the rail wouldnt stick... I asked andy what 2 do and he said 2 hand screw it.. But now I'm not sure what to do about the nose bone and tail bone.. Especially cuz the flight deck wood is so hard.. Thanx man loove the content
Thank you sooo much... I've just been askin as many people as possible because im worried about fuckin up my deck... Appreciate you brotha!!!
what brand and size trucks do you ride im a great fan of you
Hey Dude
Many thanks for tuning in!
I ride independent 159 on the 9” deck and Independent 144 on the 8.45 deck.
Cheers
@@JonBishopSkate yeah no problem I was struggling to find a person who loves pools because I love them to
@@JonBishopSkate cheers to you too
Use rat nutts.....problem solved
I might get rails but don’t see the point in them personally
Yeah it’s personal preference.
Advantages are -
- Less friction for board slides
- More stability on concave boards for rocks and Boardslides
- Something to grab for grabs
- Saves the graphics
Downsides
- Adds weight
- Some don’t like the look
- costs money
- it’s a pain if they rattle