Pro race, very street drivable, 500 hp OE 289 SBF iron head mods.
Vložit
- čas přidán 3. 01. 2023
- In this, episode 64 part 1, DV and assistant Phil Stillwell show how to modify a set of original factory iron 289 heads to bring them up to vintage race spec. Though intended for vintage class racing they make pretty awsome street heads. How good are they? Well let's put it this way - they will outpower any 'off the shelf' aluminum heads by a healthy margin (CNC ported or not) and you could be doing these in your home shop. All the details needed will be presented in this and the subsequent part 2.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
This information is worth it's weight in GOLD! Thank you for sharing your cylinder head knowledge with us.
David Vizard says, "Hearse-Perrrrr!" I love it! Legit legendary!
I do too hahaha. He should sell t shirts with that on it. I'd buy one.
I can't tell you how many times I revisit these videos. Every time I watch it I pick up on something that I missed the other times.
I was getting 350-400 HP out of my old 289 heads in 1980 at 7,000 RPM. Was running 11.80’s @ 3,700’ altitude in a ‘62 Ranchero. I now realize there was more HP to be had by spinning 8,000 RPM and would have probably put me in the 10 second range. I was out of steam at the finish line at 7,200 RPM with 5.43 gears.....
Just ran across this. Yeah, very similar in the 70's. Iron block, cast crank, stock rods with Chevy bolts, domed pistons, OEM heads, Chevy valves in the heads, porting. Made enough power to later run Super Street on good days, solid 11.20's at west coast tracks in a 2500lb fastback. The 4-speed cars in the group were quicker. I ran a C4 and 5.43 with 13x31W's. Shift at 7 and go through the lights at 7800 or so.
My first process was cutting a stock head apart to learn the casting specs. CZcams sure makes things easy nowadays. It was all trial and error back in the day; lotta work.
So great to get so much out of a small motor. 🤠
what upgrades did you do?
Okay, you have me on the edge of my seat... waiting for part 2.
I can't thank u enough for passing on this knowledge and for free.I'm in debt to u DV. I'm a mustang man but I love American muscle and just going fast lol on 4 ,2 ,18 or 0 wheels.
I played with these heads since my teens as well. Never had the flow bench so no bench marks other than who won the race. Looking back I wish I had had some science to my madness but we did have good times. Those 289’s were such quick reving engines you had to be careful with your shift points. Thank you David for your generous sharing from your lifetime achievements.
Great Craftsmanship. Loved it.
Been waiting for part 2 of this for.....a long time. Patiently waiting, btw. Am Sooo glad it is in the pipeline!!!
Looking forward to see the end results for these 289 Heads cheers David.
I try to apply these instructions to my twostroke transfer channels.
Great video!
i love everything about the way you put your videos together DV. Its attuning.
I remember reading an old Hot Rod magazine article from the mid 60's talking about Shelby cobra 289 race engines and it said the famous head porting shop next door to Shelby in Burbank had the race engines pulling 450 - 475 HP. As I recall they were putting chevy 1.90 intake valves in the 289 heads (the chevy SB 2.02 valves would not fit) and then porting the 289 heads. It's been a long time but I believe the end of the article said they were currently experimenting with the Ford 352 heads to see how those could be adapted to the 289 with hopes of getting over 500 HP.
This is great info my father can apply to his 66 fastback, I was curious though why I never see any miata motors on here? They are after all the most tracked car in the country. You would certainly gain huge viewership, I love my miata so much I bought a second one. Fuel economy and fun factor all in one, perfect for back yard mechanics. Don't get me wrong, I can apply what I've learned and get gains but having a true guru such as yourself take the time to show the world how to do it to the fullest would bring viewers from all over the globe.
All his porting basics apply.
Your videos are awesome! Thanks for all you do!
Your videos are great David. As an amateur hotrod style engine builder (Mercedes-Benz), I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and I always seem to learn a new perspective with each one. Phil does a great job explaining as well. Cheers!
Reading the title I was thinking they must be spinning the little guy to 8,000. Haha, reminds me of my 283 back in the day, although it was only 410 hp, but I'm no wizard, I mean Vizard.
Oh yes, the shrouding! Many people think that the motivation for using 351W heads on 289 and 302 blocks is the bigger ports. Not so - the stock ports are about the same. The 351W chambers are unshrouded, and the valves and bowls are bigger. They still need port work, but that's easy compared to what the pros here are doing.
289 ports are @ 127 CC ports and 54 CC chambers with 1.72 valves.
Early big spark plug 351w heads (and todays GT40s) are @144 CC ports and 62 CC chambers with 1.84 valves. On a 289 they kill one full point of compression.
Great video and info David! Much appreciated!!
I have done dozens of heads of FIA approved and time period road racing engines. I always wondered why the 2 engine builders I supply them to let the engines rev max 7200 rpm and prefer the customer shift at 6800. They told me , even with a girdle , using the higher revs didnt make them go faster BUT ALSO had blocks crack within hours. As some engines have to withstand the 6hours of Spa or the super long straights ( 3 times 1 mile on 1 straight ) of Le Mans ......longevity is the way to win races with these engines. Keep revs down!!!
Thank you, looking forward to the next episode.
What are the cam specs for 500 HP in the 7000 RPM range?
Thanks David.. pure gold … 👌
I've been waiting for part two for a year and a half
Your not the only one that's been waiting. Is this guy ful of shit? I want to see the results
Also this time David, big thank you for your work
Everything is very informational and appreciated thanks always
I really enjoyed this video even though I don't own a SBF because it's a no-nonsense approach to porting that has been justified by the dyno and the race track.
Any news on part2? Can't wait for the next installment!
Love your videos and info
Problem is, for road-racing we are limited to 6800 rpm. We are getting 480hp though, not bad.
The video's fine. Not a problem with the music. Keep up the good work. Always like and subscribed.
A gasket is most always bigger than the bore ! My hubby puts dykem on the head , then bolts it to an empty block, turns it up side down , reaches down the bores and scribes lines even with bores. That way you never have chambers bigger than your bore, which causes turbulance.
What you don't know is that turbulence is there for a reason. By design by Ford.
@@lelanburns6182No it absolutely is not. That's just goofy. Turbulence in a head piston squish area is created by the clearance between the head surface and the piston top. The idea that turbulence would develop in a recess like that is just not sensible or supported by any engineering theory or practice.
@@lelanburns6182😂what u don't no is ur ass from a hole in the ground 💯 hahaha
Really cool. Now transfer that onto a cnc and never have to grind again!
Honestly.
I wish there was a David Vizard for transmissions!!!!
Thanks for the hard work!
Where’s part 2 of this video? I want to see the rest of the work and supporting dyno numbers! DV implies right here that he already has them. I dug through the videos but didn’t see it....
Over ten minutes into the video and he actually says “now we”ll get to what this video is to be about”. WTF do these people think?
Can’t wait till you start on the 318 mission impossible cylinder heads .
Hopefully I can do the same job at home 👌🏽👌🏽
Charlie Servedio is pretty deep into them already.
@@hotrodray6802 Agree..that guy is full of talent.
Would love to see some content on 4 valve heads!
Watched a video of PRI this year. Ford racing is coming out with vintage crate engines starting with 289 and one other.
Mr Vizard I enjoy/like your videos but am having trouble finding the next one in the series. Not wanting to complain but which is the video after this one?
I guarantee you I would screw this up! Great work!
I am dying to hear the rest of the story. Are you still doing headporting classes?
Thank you for being generous with the information we Benefit from your vast knowledge.
Crazy interesting stuff.
Thanks for the video
great vid.
Well Done! Thank you!
Just Wondering when Part 2 of this Ford OEM Heads is coming???? Just very curious to see the flow figures, specs and dyno results.
Ported a set of 1970 2V heads using your guidelines with slightly cut down to 2" intakes. Later switched to 77 GT 40's with a bit less work and was disappointed. Went back to earlier head.
GREAT INFO. I can't find pt. 2. Do you do work on customers heads? More details on the complete engine would be nice.
I bought your book called port & flow test cylinder heads. Now onto chapter 2. But I’d like to say this David. These videos have given me some of the best information visualisations and help to understand the language of this art! I’m so very grateful for all your kind help you have offered us all!
Although I’m chomping at the bit to start porting the 2V heads on my 72 Ford 400 motor I’m going to absorb as much as possible from your videos and book, before I start!
For myself I would even say that with these videos. It helps me understand a lot more of what I'm reading in DV's books. Nowdays when I go back and read in my A-series book. It almost feels like someone have swiched the light on!
@@martinandersson1049 yes! Definitely
400 heads??? Dont bother, chamber is way too big. And worse you struggle to get a decent piston. If you are serious get those rods bushed then use 351C pistons,, or better Aussie 302 heads which are small chamber, Never bother with 4Vs unless you want to turn it to the moon.. 72 400 is around 8.5-1 with about a 78cc chamber. 302 heads are around 60cc. Factory height 71 400 pistons will give around 9.8-`1 with a 50 thou cut. But all I have seen in replacement pistons have the crowns in a different postcode, worse most headgaskets are at least 10 thou thicker. It all adds up rapidly to about 7.5-1 with 'replacement pistons and fat gaskets
@@ldnwholesale8552 hi thanks for the info! The heads on it are 2V small ports. With Porto g and raising the exhaust outlay 2 mm plus de shrouding. And 27,thou off the heads with flat top pistons should be in the 8.9/1 plus a descent cam to up the dynamic compression. Which is a definite mod anyway with intake and headers I’m looking at around 450-500 Hp. If the heads don’t yield good results then it’s a pair a AFR heads and a solid roller! I’m hoping to get a descent amount from the 2vheads though! But your right about the 4V’s I’ve seen DV on here filling the inlets with JB Weld! To shorten the ports!
Thanks again bud!
Best option is change the factory retarded timing gears to advance at least 6° then just boost it with a different cam profile. The 400 is a torque monster especially the 71's mine actually pulled a wheelie in a Ranch Wagon on the 1-2 shift at around 55mph, scared the Hell out of me. Best option for the 400 if you want serious power is getting CHF heads and matching intake with a rowdy cam anything Jon Kaase did to that engine made crazy power numbers. No the 400 is NOT A BOAT ANCHOR as so many used to complain of, it was a dog with the horrid timing and garbage compression ratios and would run on and diesel and knock and ping like a sucker but with the correct bearing it was quick to accelerate.
I love your program, and I also love fox body mustangs. Would you do a video engine formula, for the 5.0 fox body mustang
Anyone who can get a production iron 289 / 302 head to 500 hp naturally aspirated is above my pay grade.
Holy shit the Acid is finally kicking in. 😝
I've often wondered about unshrouding by relieving the chamber and cylinder wall like the 396 BBC.
This was and old Y block trick 60+ yrs ago..
All gets down to flow figures. There's a lot of very good alloy heads there days that have great air speed and flow. Some of the factors for many also include the money spent on an old iron head vs a new better designed, material and parts options. From memory most started with 351 heads on 289s.
where is part 2
That's some intro!
Hey David! I got a few questions you may not answer this but for valve deshrouding in the chamber is there a formula for it like it scales with the valve? And for the port doesn’t the throat work off percentages? Because I’m the video it is said to have been just smoother out?
good videos! have your a-series tuning bible
I love these Ford SBF projects
Those 289 chambers were so small and perfect for modifying. Makes me want to get a pair of small chamber 352 heads and do the same mods.
I had a set of those heads. Opened them up for 1.94/1.60 valves. Those early castings had plenty of meat.
@@robertwest3093
DV does big valves on his.
Those 352 heads hard to find.
Every video has things to learn if a guy pays attention. Even someone like me that has been building winning engines for 30 years
USed to get busted in the 70s for reading his books in class folded up in my bigger school books, lol
Hi Dave, Is part 2 out yet?
Thank you David, I was just curious, have you ever ported any duel port VW heads and if so are there any videos
He has a video on the “bathtub” chambers.
I would like to know where the block was broken at.
Don’t need to apologize for music. It’s fine.
The gasket hole is always bigger than the bore in the block !! If you port to the gasket edge, the chamber will over hang the bore anð interfere with intake flow ! The way to do it, is use empty block put blueing around chambers, bolt heads to block turn block upside down, reach down bores and scribe lines on heads. Know you have the exact size of the bores transfered to the heads !, Hope this helps, GOD bless.
Really appreciate the knowledge in this video, and the timing of the upload. I'm currently in the process of porting my set of 289 heads, which also happen to be for a '66 mustang GT, and are the first set of cylinder heads I've done any significant work to.
I have a question: based on your expertise, in addition to the porting work shown in this video, would installing larger 351W valves (1.85"/1.55") have additional benefits in performance on a high compression 289, or are the flow numbers/HP/Tq ratings similar compared the stock valves (1.78"/1.45") after porting. I would love to hear your input.
- James P.
In another episode, DV talks about area rule. This is the area of the valve curtain up to about .25 of the valve lift. The area between the valve and seat up to that point is what limits the intake flow. Exhaust also but the higher pressure gas is a determinate. What this says is, yes a larger valve will tend to produce/allow more flow especially at low lift.
For years guys have been installing the Chev 1.94"/1.6" valves in the SBF heads. Another option now is the LS 1.9"/1.55" valves. Keeper heights are close to the same as the Ford valves with either choice of Chev valves. The 1.94"/1.6" use the same 11/32" diameter stems as the Ford. If your guides are worn I would choose the LS valves. They are about 20g to 25g lighter. When you need new guides anyway, installing 5/16" bronze guides and hone to fit the 8mm stems is a bonus. You do need retainers, keepers and springs. If you have the 63 1/2 to 66 regular performance heads with pressed in rocker studs, you likely have a spring installed height of 1.64" to 1.66". PAC has dual springs that will work with flat tappets and .55" lift. If you have the HiPo heads or 67 and later heads, the spring installed height should be 1.78". In this case the LS retainers, keepers and probably springs from a Pick n Pull engine will work. The LS installed height is 1.8". These parts also reduce the moving mass of the valve train.
If hou have the early 351 heads with the 1.84" valves or the GT40/ GT40P heads with the 1.84" valves, the LS6 has 2.00" intake valves that can be put in these heads.
The Ford valves are a bit longer but not a problem. Rocker geometry must be checked. Lash caps may help correct the shorter valve stems.
I would also consider 7/16" rocker studs for extra strength and stability. Also roller rockers to fit the 7/16" studs. There is a cost premium to this, but the benefits outweight the extra cost, IMHO.
Non HiPo heads probably do not have pushrod guides built in the heads, so guide plates are likely required. If the pushrod holes have the guide slots, the stud bosses need to be milled down about 0.250". If the holes are round, guide plates are required. In this case the bosses need to be milled 0.300".
With the almost 0.125" larger intake valves and other porting work as described in DV's PowerTec 10 Ford porting videos, a single pattern cam with about 107° LSA can be used to good effect.
@Dale Davies lots of great info, thank you. My castings are C60E-M with cast-in guides, originally on a '66 GT. Is it true that bronze valve guides can potentially seize on a valve stem causing catastrophic engine failure? The reason I ask is, I'm running a multi carbureted manifold (3x2) that is notorious for tuning issues related to the idle circuit and/or proper jetting. If not tuned correctly, there could be lean cylinders at some point throughout the RPM range. The increased heat in the affected cylinders could cause the valve guides above that cylinder to expand at an increased rate and potentially seize a valve. At least, that's my understanding based on my research. In my application, if needed, are cast iron guides available and would they be the better option?
@@PrescribedFireI have to admit that I do not know on the bronze guide seizing. Bronze should have a tendency to self lubricate. Obviously the exhaust valves are more of a concern, so the stem clearance could be opened up slightly. I would talk to your head machinist concerning this.
I bought an RPM AirGap for my 66 289 to replace the 2V carb. The AVS2 carbs were not available then. When I get my engine back together I will put it back on as previously run. Then I will replace the primary boosters with the AVS2 650 boosters for better fuel atomization. The AirGap lacks heat so good atomization at the carburetor is a big help.
My cam is one I had in a 351 and the guy that bought the car for parts was going to rebuild it. I got the cam and lifters out of it with low miles. I drilled a 2 × 4 with 1" holes and marked the cylinders so I can put them back on the same lobes.
The cam is an Engele;
210° @ 0.050"
256° @ 0.006"
LSA is 109°, a bit wide for the 289, but considering I have it I will use it.
Valve lift is 0.472" with 1.6 rockers. I got Scorpion 1.72:1 rockers to get lift over 0.5".
I will get the exhaust seats cut at 40° and the exhaust valves to 39°. According to David Vizard this helps blowdown at low lift, similar to back cutting the intake valves. The intakes will still be 45° seats with a back cut. Another trick for the exhaust valves is to chuck them in a drill press and use a fine file to round off the outer cylinder side of the margin. You can also use a flapper wheel in a drill while the drill is turning to swirl polish the port side of the valves, especially the intake. 320 grit works.
DV's PowerTec 10 Ford head porting videos show how to prep the heads to enable 500HP.
DV also built a dyno mule using Chev 5.7 powdered metal con rods and Mahle Chev pistons. Compression height is short with this but 1mm, 1mm and 2mm rings help. I am planning another 289 build using aftermarket light Chev 5.565 rods with the big ends machined for the SBF journal and bearing sizes. This leaves the compression height at 1.200" to 1.210" for a tight quench. Do look up DV's Ford porting videos.
You have heard of SBF blocks breaking. A lot of that is front to rear vibration that fatiques the main webs. In DV's 1,000HP Ford block video he shows block modifications for splayed 4 bolt mains, a lifter valley reinforcement and concrete filling the block up to the bottom of the water holes where water enters from the water pump. This changes the natural frequency and damps vibrations. This does not harm cooling as most of the heat is in the top 1" of the cylinder.
Another thing to look into is Strategic Cooling. You would epoxy freeze plugs into the front water holes in the block and then drill to say 3/4". Then the water passages in the timing cover would be drilled and tapped or an aluminium nipple welded on with a 3/4" NPT thread. The block is drilled and tapped for 3/8" NPT between the front two cylinders on each side and also the rear two cylinders each side. This creates swirl around the cylinder tops. A manifold needs to be made out of tubing, 3/8" stainless. Also the heads can be drilled and tapped to inject coolant directed between the exhaust seat and spark plug. This is an option available through AFR Cylinder Heads.A 1/2" or 3/4" tube should come from each side of the timing cover and around the side of the block. The 3/8" tubes get welded to that to distribut the coolant where it is most needed, thus the Strategic Cooling name. I think it is Stewart Cooling that describes this into the heads rather than reverse cooling. Deairation is not a problem with this.
Life begins at 7000 rpm.
David have you done a video on decking a block?
Excellent. I wonder how you could mod the same heads to run low compression, 87 octane for a great street engine? Occasional track days and cruising in a 65 Mustang 2+2.
Use water injection with 87 octane. David has several videos on this.
@@bobirving6052 Thanks, will check it out.
Lots of artistry. I stopped the video to look at the kid's work. Thumbs up
I note that you're increasing displacement and reducing compression ratio a bit. Is it at all significant?
How do I find out cam specs on the cam used to make 500 Hp with the 289 ported heads
D.V., What it the 1.47 intake and 1.1 Exhaust? percent or add on from center of valves?
Hi David, thank you for sharing all this knowledge. i have maxed out my internet twice watching your videos (can't get unlimited where i live). Now please excuse my ignorance, i have searched the internet for information on "Flowing to 28 inches". without success. What does this actually mean? if possible could you do a video on this subject. I'm sure that there must be other people like myself that can't come to grasps with this statement. Or maybe I'm the only one...
That's the amount of suction/vacuum (restriction to flow) being pulled through the port while on the flow bench. Pulling water 28 inches up a tube, suction overcoming gravity. You'll see the red dye in the tubes on the flow bench to more easily see the liquid.
28" is an "industry standard" value for comparisons.
By keeping the suction constant, any change in flow by porting or increased valve opening is easily seen.
Each time the valve is opened farther, 28" needs to be reset.
Hi Thanks for the reply.
However i still not understanding the physical connection of the tube\s are being sucked on.
if they are on the vacuum side the liquid would be sucked straight out of the tank (if there is a tank).
So the only way you could move the liquid up the tube is to apply a slight vacuum.
the only way (I think) you could apply a slight vacuum is to have the tube somehow interface with the air being drawn through the port.
So is there a tube placed in or near the port? or is it some kind of venturi that the air passes over causing suction? (Like a spray gun)
A physical diagram would be awesome!
I am in the process of rebuilding a 351C using stock heads (2V) for street use, and I want to apply DV's knowledge to get the best results.
i would like to build my own flow bench so i can see the results before and after valve and porting changes.
BTW I have never seen a flow bench in person. I probably wouldn't be asking these questions if i had. I've only seen on CZcams.
Regards Darren
I really want to get a pair of used 2nd gen small block LT1 heats to take a shot at porting. My 96 Buick Roadmaster sedan needs some help. And I can't afford aftermarket heads. I can't even afford used aluminum heads. Plus I don't want to spend too much money on a set of heads that I might mess up. But I've gotta start somewhere
See if Cyl head exchange sells rebuilt sets they are affordable. Basic porting rules apply same as most any V8, done many sets of LTx heads.
Are these mods applicable to the E7TE heads?, there seems to be more of those around these days.
Yes. I think DV has done E7 videos.
David have video porting 2v cleveland heads.
Cleveland videos please!
The entire 335 family!
I agree! I would love to see how far David could take an iron Cleveland head!
Have you ever looked at an Aussie Cleveland head?
Go to DragBoss Garage Channel. He is the US Cleveland Guru.
czcams.com/users/DragBoss?app=desktop
Yes please, small port and large port please
Que valvulas puedo colocar mas grandes para mi 289 ?
maybe I missed it, but what are the 1.47 and 1.1 radii in reference to... I know they are for unshrouding reference for the intake and exhaust valves respectively... but are they rules of thumb "percentages" of the overall valve Ø for each of these specific valves (similar to the .88 of valve Ø for throats) or are they more general numbers... I hope that makes sense-i just can't seem to word it the way I want
Call it a radius multiplier. Valve R x 1.47= deshrouding area. Deshrouding more important on intake, radius into seat area more important on exhaust, yet deshroud as much as reasonably possible. Remember, everything you take away makes for a bigger chamber.
@@traviscallaway9675 thanks... I assume (maybe incorrectly) a flowball sized using that equation would work in the same way or maybe in conjunction with the scribing/dichem method used...
@@zeroswings2 it would, just easier than having multiple balls. Yet the proper flow ball is more accurate for minimum dimensions, have to remember air wants to move in a straight line, the more area to work with gives you options.
Scribe the head gasket line.
Radius off the intake valve 1.47.
That shows you how much to relieve the chamber on the intake side of the spark plug. Don't go outside the gasket line.
Would these even out power the CNC AFR race heads?
Where is the end results? Cant find part 2
When you say cylinder wall side on the runner what do you mean?
Does anyone have any idea just how much “cylinder wall bias” material can be removed from the bowl wall? The bowl roof? The side opposite wall? Roof? Any idea of throat percentages on intake and exhaust? He mentions having a radius leading to the valve seat which implies leaving some throat material there.... I have some ‘66 289 heads from the 80’s that I drag raced in an 11 second Falcon Ranchero with some home garage port work and Chevy valves. The intake throats are 1.50”/1.88” = 79.7%. Exhaust 1.24”/1.45” = 85.5%. I have read that intake should be 90-92% and exhaust 88%. Any ideas?
At 8:30 why is working on the area shown in the video leading to power loss?
Very good info in this video.
He has said that cutting that out disrupts the flow on the valve. Kills power and rpm limit by 4-500 rpm.
@@hotrodray6802 but why does it disrupt the flow?
@@torquebooster The swirl in the chamber flows out the intake valve at lower lifts when it should be coming in. That ridge deflects the flow.
@@hotrodray6802 I do not think that is the case.
The ridge is on the cylinder wall side.
Maybe Mr. Vizard can give the right answer.
What did the heads end up flowing ?
Calculated cross section ?
244/180 on my bench
I like to scribe the head on the block, I think its a better way to size it cylinderwall interference or shrouding. But to each their own I am an idiot in a garage with a grinder.
Hi David. About intake system, polished, dimpling or roughness? What the best application for each option? Thank's.
On video DV has said the only reason he polishes them is that the customer thinks it's prettier, and he is in the head porting business $$$.
The finish will make almost 0 difference at all. PRetty doesnt equal power
I only leave a carbide finish on my personal pieces these days.
If in doubt use a 60- grit tootsie roll and call it good dont worry about it looks.
Ive poked holes chasing that lol
David, do you still do your porting seminars? If so where do I go to sign up?
Email address included on most videos
What size valves
Haha, that music 😂
You can support 12:1 on 91 octane with iron heads?
And a duel plane manifold, stock rockers too 🤷♂️🤣
Made my ears perk up, maybe octane is overrated
Proper chamber design and piston selection, fuel ratio and plug heat.
Also what is missing is the cam used? you would need one that bleeds off cylinder pressure by having a late opening intake valve.
Where can I buy a complete set of these of these so called 500 HP street heads ? Show me the dyno AFR VS THESE HEADS !
Where were you in 1980? I had graduated a couple years before and found myself working for Checker Auto, in AZ. It certainly wasn’t what I wanted to do, but the pay was better than I could make with no mechanics jobs available, as those jobs were being filled by guys who were moving away from snow country that had experience. One of my employees was working for us was a smart kid who was a senior at my former school. When he started building an engine for his mustang I told him about an article I had read in an old Hot Rod Annual. I told him I was certain that I could help him get into the 14’s, or maybe the 13’s if we could find a few places to pull a little extra power from. We got the car into the low 14’s without much trouble, and when he swapped the C4 auto trans for a top loader the car was solidly running 13’s. He wanted to go faster, like all the rest of us. The next build was a 12 second motor, with a bigger cam and higher static compression, around 11-1. The necessitated the constant use of octane booster, but it was cheap enough for him to buy with Checker’s employee discount. Then he decided to add Nitrous Oxide to the mix, giving him a 50 to 100 hp boost. That pushed the car into the. 11’s. We did all this with stock heads that were port matched and a little bit of work knocking off casting flash. E had plans to put some 351W heads on it and we’re looking for the 4 bbl castings which had smaller combustion chambers, but they are very scarce. I’ve only seen one set of those in my whole life. Anyway, I wish we had had this info back then! Unfortunately p, my friend lost his life when a drunk driver entered the highway going the w wrong way right in front of him. He managed to put his Datsun truck into a slide, turning it sideways and taking the brunt of the impact on his side of the truck. He managed to save his girlfriend’s life, but at a terrible cost. Randy was one of the best drivers I’ve ever known. He cut some incredible reaction times at the track, and when his friend when all out on his Mustang, where we built a full on 351C to power it, Randy squeezed an 8.82 out of it during the winter nats, while the pro stock guys were turning 8.70’s. If we had a newer body to slide the power train into we could have stepped things up a bit and made the field. But it wasn’t meant to be.
Thinking back in that first or second build, you heads would have helped put Randy’s ride into the low 11’s or quicker. I wish I had known about this way back when!
This is exactly what I'm planning to do with my 289 heads, were you running stock displacement for those horsepower numbers? Does anyone know how much it costs to attend one of David's classes or where to sign up if he still hosts them?
Looks like the domain lapsed on the proper website, i know some of the videos have text on them about emailing him and theres another bit of text sometimes about trying to gauge interest in possible zoom seminars
Vintage racing excludes strokers.
@@hotrodray6802 all vintage racing? Even offset ground cranks?
Do you sell these heads ??
No CC"ing to equal out Chamber volume?
That comes later after basic shaping. Higher the compression, the more critical, yet given flow dynamics, some cylinders need more compression than others.
Highly over rated for 98% of us. You'll never noticed the difference.
2 things Dave cost ( about how much should I pay for this ) & I'm in Michigan detroit surbs anyone you recomend