I did. Can’t lift it high enough. Someone suggested putting even more blocks under it but I’d end up lifting the back of my truck up. With a friction hitch like this, lots of tension is what makes it work. If you can move them off by hand, it’s not doing anything.
@@joequint Can’t move them off when they’re in use, only when done towing and lifted. I have a RAM 2500 with rear air bags and a drop hitch. No problem
That looks dangerous. I use specially made wooden blocks under the jack so as to minimize the amount of height required to raise the jack. That way, just raise the tongue enough where the sway bars are swinging in the breeze for removal. No hammer needed. Also, when using those contraptions, when loaded, the front end of the tow vehicle's height should not change by more than 1/2" or you might be in for trouble.
I have wood blocks under there as well. You described what is on the equalizer videos czcams.com/video/FYFYcqxlJzc/video.htmlsi=bmID-RN-x9XQJWav With a little more weight things get a little more interesting. For me, I need to use the snap up tool and I use a hammer to pry off the tension bar because of the larger amount of tension. I’m sure I could get it higher but don’t want to stress out my piece of crap Jack.
@@joequint I made two separate pieces of wood with handles to accommodate different ground conditions. When raising the jack to remove equalizer bars, they are literally just swinging in the breeze. Anyway, be safe.
Did you setup the hitch or did the dealer do it? And when it was all Measured and Adjusted was the ATV in the bed of the truck? I ask these questions because that whole setup is absolutely not right. I have owned and used that exact hitch for years.
How can you tell it is not right? I didn’t follow the instructions the first time and set it up incorrectly. The trailer swayed like mad. Followed the instructions to a T, and watched all the equalizer installation videos. I was skeptical at first but then… Magic no more sway. It works because I when I drive it in 25+ mph winds (and passing semis) with virtually no sway. Easy driving. For me, that seems like it works. Yeah I also measure with the 4 wheeler in and without. It’s pretty similar on all the measurements.
@joequint The way you have it now is creating a to much stress on the trailer tongue. It's going to break or bend it eventually. You should be able to put the bars on and off the perches by lifting the jack. The lift tool is really only required if your trailer is leaning to one side while hitching. Our first trailer we used this hitch for was a 28 foot tow hauler with 800lds tongue weight and my wife could hitch and unhitch it by herself.
Watching the video again it looks like you have to many washers/spacers and are kicking the hitch head down to far. The ball should not be at that steep of an angle.
Interesting thought. Those are for 14k lbs and I’m right around 10k. Should be well within spec. It’s possible. Thank you for the suggestion and I will check it out.
I've have had one of of these for 6 years. This guy is a DWMB A$$
Just lift it with your power hitch and take it off by hand
I did. Can’t lift it high enough. Someone suggested putting even more blocks under it but I’d end up lifting the back of my truck up. With a friction hitch like this, lots of tension is what makes it work. If you can move them off by hand, it’s not doing anything.
@@joequint Can’t move them off when they’re in use, only when done towing and lifted. I have a RAM 2500 with rear air bags and a drop hitch. No problem
It appears the hitch is too light for the load. Definitely should not be so tight the jack can't take the tension off it! That is crazy!
I just kick my bars with my foot and have zero issues getting the pins out. Then I just pull the bars off the lip by hand.
Much easier to just reverse how you put it on...
You need to cross your chains under your hitch
The snap up wrench only works in one direction for me. For the WD hitch to be engaged and function it requires much tension.
That looks dangerous.
I use specially made wooden blocks under the jack so as to minimize the amount of height required to raise the jack. That way, just raise the tongue enough where the sway bars are swinging in the breeze for removal. No hammer needed.
Also, when using those contraptions, when loaded, the front end of the tow vehicle's height should not change by more than 1/2" or you might be in for trouble.
I have wood blocks under there as well. You described what is on the equalizer videos
czcams.com/video/FYFYcqxlJzc/video.htmlsi=bmID-RN-x9XQJWav With a little more weight things get a little more interesting. For me, I need to use the snap up tool and I use a hammer to pry off the tension bar because of the larger amount of tension. I’m sure I could get it higher but don’t want to stress out my piece of crap Jack.
@@joequint I made two separate pieces of wood with handles to accommodate different ground conditions. When raising the jack to remove equalizer bars, they are literally just swinging in the breeze.
Anyway, be safe.
woe, what a noob!
Did you setup the hitch or did the dealer do it?
And when it was all Measured and Adjusted was the ATV in the bed of the truck?
I ask these questions because that whole setup is absolutely not right.
I have owned and used that exact hitch for years.
How can you tell it is not right? I didn’t follow the instructions the first time and set it up incorrectly. The trailer swayed like mad. Followed the instructions to a T, and watched all the equalizer installation videos. I was skeptical at first but then… Magic no more sway. It works because I when I drive it in 25+ mph winds (and passing semis) with virtually no sway. Easy driving. For me, that seems like it works.
Yeah I also measure with the 4 wheeler in and without. It’s pretty similar on all the measurements.
@joequint The way you have it now is creating a to much stress on the trailer tongue.
It's going to break or bend it eventually.
You should be able to put the bars on and off the perches by lifting the jack.
The lift tool is really only required if your trailer is leaning to one side while hitching.
Our first trailer we used this hitch for was a 28 foot tow hauler with 800lds tongue weight and my wife could hitch and unhitch it by herself.
Watching the video again it looks like you have to many washers/spacers and are kicking the hitch head down to far. The ball should not be at that steep of an angle.
you do not have the right capacity bars that is why you have to raise it so much to take the weight off
Interesting thought. Those are for 14k lbs and I’m right around 10k. Should be well within spec. It’s possible. Thank you for the suggestion and I will check it out.
That's just stupid.