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I have this exact issue on my 2020

2018 F150 3.5EB @ 100k miles, I replaced my thermostat with a 180 degree aftermarket thermostat and topped off the coolant. Before I replaced the thermostat I would frequently see the numbers show up during heavy acceleration. After the thermostat replacement I have yet to see the numbers appear, even when towing my 8000 lb RV up a steep grade at full throttle.

That looks dangerous. I use specially made wooden blocks under the jack so as to minimize the amount of height required to raise the jack. That way, just raise the tongue enough where the sway bars are swinging in the breeze for removal. No hammer needed. Also, when using those contraptions, when loaded, the front end of the tow vehicle's height should not change by more than 1/2" or you might be in for trouble.

I just kick my bars with my foot and have zero issues getting the pins out. Then I just pull the bars off the lip by hand.

It appears the hitch is too light for the load. Definitely should not be so tight the jack can't take the tension off it! That is crazy!

you do not have the right capacity bars that is why you have to raise it so much to take the weight off

woe, what a noob!

Did you setup the hitch or did the dealer do it? And when it was all Measured and Adjusted was the ATV in the bed of the truck? I ask these questions because that whole setup is absolutely not right. I have owned and used that exact hitch for years.

Just lift it with your power hitch and take it off by hand

I've have had one of of these for 6 years. This guy is a DWMB A$$

That's just stupid.

Much easier to just reverse how you put it on...

You didn't say how many pounds of torque was needed on the thing. Tighten it 12lbs or what!?

Put in the still one

hi joe

Outstanding job! I can't imagine waking up the next morning, and going down S.Kaibab, let alone doing another 22 miles across the Canyon. You folks are legit!! Also, huge thumbs up for having your gear so dialed in, that you were barely carrying anything. THAT is the key to success in the Canyon. October is great time to be there. I ran across 2 weeks before you. My daughter and I started running R2R (North Rim to South Rim) in 2015, to celebrate our birthdays which are 1 day apart, mid-Aug. That 1st one was on her 16th birthday, and I'd turned 52 the day before. We did 5 in a row, and I've now done 12. She just ran her 6th with me in '22. I have a few vids of our adventures there, on the channel.

Holy Smokes that's beautiful!! You guys are such a sweet couple. :) The fans want to see a snowy run next. Nice job editing, Joe

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Where’d you get those medals? I did the R3 last year, I want a medal.🏅 haha.

i need a girl who can rim like this 😜

Nice. I've done R3 3X. Lol.

My 2015 3.5 F150 was overheating on me. I changed out the CHT and it still overheats, typically when I drive at or above 60mph and if I reduce the speed, it stops overheating. My next thing to do is replace the thermostat. Hopefully that takes care of it. Can someone tell me I'm doing the right thing, if not what do I need to do?

My 22’ Powerboost went into “Reduced power due to engine temperature” over the weekend towing 8k# at 50-60mph going up and down hills in Pennsylvania. The gauges never went above normal range and even today unloaded the truck was in the same temp range driving unloaded. Temps were 30-46*. As soon as I can I’m getting rid of this engine and going to something much simpler. 😡

Thats exactly what my truck has been doing lately. While unloaded, as soon as i get past 60mph, it stays between 220-245F. I replaced the thermostat with a 186F aftermarket one, but didnt do a coolant flush. Just vacuum filled the coolant and thought i was good. Its still under the dealer warranty so ill let them deal with it. Would you be willing to pm me the technical data from the ford engineer?

Thank you!

I tried today with an aluminum fitting in my kit I got, will not slide on, any suggestions?

Congrats on making it through to the finish - brutal race 🙂 I did the marathon this year as well and broke my toe while running down the w’s with a couple of miles left. Thankfully managed to finish!

Did you have to adjust the back fill to the same level as your top-most board? Was wondering if the level got to the board level, it would flow around the back of the blocks and erode the back fill. It's a great idea we are hoping to implement in our pond. Thanks for sharing!

Good Work.

Inspiring. Way to go Joe!

You, sir, are a patron and a saint. A monument should be made in your recognition. I was fighting this for over an hour, but the heat gun made short work of it. I'd say I used the heat gun for a minute, then just popped the tube back on. Thanks again.

i thought Utah be warm for that time of year, what temperature was it when you raced it last year?

4:42 I have been telling people to do it this way for years now. This video I made shows it in action with limit switches but if using a Linear Actuator just remove the limit switches. czcams.com/video/ClPmxFDa5m4/video.html 3:33 You shouldn't really be using those AC Breakers for DC current. I use them only because it is such low voltage and the main draw will only happen twice a day. BUT you are using a way too large AMP. That motor only uses 3amps MAX. That is with FULL load. 250LB. The most I have ever made it go up was 2 amps. well beyond "breaking stuff" point. Use 2 amp breakers. Since you have two actuators use a 3 amp. 4:18 the Charge controller you are showing is NOT MPPT it is PWM. 5:05 Not pins, They are screw terminals 7:30 You could also use astronomical timers. They adjust the time according to astronomical charts for your latitude and longitude. 8:25 For those who might think it is too fast going down, you can add a PWM motor speed controller just on the down side Up timer terminal 3 and Down timer Terminal 5. 8:58 You very much so tell what time is the Open/Up and Close/Down timer. Whichever is sending positive is the one for that action. When you tested the Actuator, take note as to which color wire preformed what action when positive voltage was applied. So if brown had positive and it went up then you know. Mark the wire with a zip tie or a bread twist tie. Put the wire to the #4 terminal of the timer you designate to be the Open/Up Timer. Or just switch the wires on the #4 Terminals to match how you want it. However doing the way I first mentioned will be best. 12:29 Mounting the push rod mount more to the center of the door or just below helps keep the door more centralized. Less rubbing on tracks and wall which means less wear and tear and less possibility of jamming. Also takes up less space if you are lacking 15:10 Mounting the controls on a separate board and the putting a French cleat, will make it so you can do all your wiring before hand. Using terminal blocks and/or lever wire connectors helps to just connect the wires once the controls are set in place.

was that a hex socket you got that bolt out with? was it impacted rated? thanks for a great video by the way man

Me and my wife would be arguing 3 miles in lol.

Where’s this list at I can’t find it?

What do I set my multi meter on to test?

Thank you so much for the advice!!!!!! My 2018 expedition would do this for years and ford dealer wouldn’t do anything…. Took it to another deaLer and explained it and they changed it (no charge) and now no more problems!!!!! Thank you thank you

I really appreciate you making this video. I was getting irritated trying to get it back on just now. Found your video and 30 seconds later pop.

I have an 18 as well and experienced the 230-235 about a year ago. Dealer replaced the thermostat and all was well until a couple weeks ago. 30 degree weather and slight uphill grade unloaded (Ohio) it got to 232. Getting ready to flush and replace thermostat myself. I just found out about the sticking thermostats……wish they would have updated it when they were in there lol Nice video, thanks.

Have the same issue on my 2019 expedition max. Noticed it only after getting to the top of the hill the numbers will appear ontop of temp gauge but if i accelerate the # goes away. Ive unplugged the radiator air shutters and made sure they were open and still have the same issue. Thinking mabe the water pump is going out since when i accelerate the temp goes down

Does anyone know of a write up or step by step diagnosis on these instrument clusters? I have the same issue also the needles flicker when u first cycle the key. Any help would be appreciated.

Ford has a new thermostat part number for the eco boost 3.5. It has a plastic guide rod that prevents binding. The original gets stuck and doesn’t allow coolant flow to the oil cooler. HL3Z - 8575 - B Thermostat HL3Z - 8255 - A O-Ring

God Bless you sir! I was working at that for quite a while before I saw your video. Heated it up and it popped right on.

Kept trying to unscrew it with the Allen wrench, there was never any screw in there😤 just had the twist the handle off which I thought I had to just pull on

I thought my truck was getting hot sitting at 203 deg maximum while driving but nope never mind

Diesel Tech Ron used a pry bar and it snaps in like nothing. Check out his videos.

How did it work out?

my 2020 f150 3.5 eco doesnt have number gauge on temp but its around that level for me as well but mines actually loosing coolant from the reservoir

Congrats to you both! GREAT JOB!! My sister also participated and I just posted my video of her 😀