BMW HOW-TO FIX ABS DSC and BRAKE WARNING PROBLEMS
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- In this video we look at how ABS, ASC+T DSC and DTC works and, more importantly how to diagnose and repair problems. We cover the E31, E32, E34, E38, E38 and E39 as well as more modern cars such as the E63 and E64
Early Models on Meeknet: www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/Timm_BM...
Later Models on Meeknet: www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/ABS/Ind...
#BMW, #ABS/ASC/DSC,
Hello from Tim 00:00
How ABS Works 02:07
How ASC+T Works 05:44
How DSC Works 07:06
How DTC Works 08:10
E31 - E39 Easter-Egg Mode 09:24
Later Models Easter-Egg Mode 11:49
How to Diagnose Early Models 13:56
Always Check the Pre-Charge Pump first 15:47
Buying a replacement ASC+T Block 17:17
Using Diagnostics is never easy 20:07
Diagnostics worse with DSC 21:02
Pre-Charge Pump failure with DSC on later models 23:49
What goes wrong with the DSC Module 25:34
How to Replace the DSC Module 27:48
How to Replace the Pre-Charge Pump with DSC 30:03
A quick look at the DTC Module and Pre-Charge Pump 32:29 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I cannot believe it only has 98 likes. This is golden knowledge presented in a very detailed and structured way, with plenty of great tips and tricks for real enthusiasts. Much appreciated
Glad it was helpful and thanks Linas!
Timm, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You are such a tremendous asset to the BMW community. I'm not sure if I could own my e38 without your guidance.
That's very kind of you!
Smart and informative video, I appreciate and respect you taking the time to share and explain the theories and principles behind these configurations!
Thanks SOOO much for all your work and time! As always so much help and info! BMW needs to pay you for it. Live long, Happy, and Healthy!!!!!
Thanks j that's very kind of you!
Timm is brilliant. Wish I knew there were these modes while driving out of NYC in a blizzard with low profile tires in an E46 20 years ago.
Thanks!
Thanks for this video, as well as all of your videos. Extremely helpful for me as I am figuring out a trifecta on an E38 740 at the moment.
I hope the video helps!
Another great informative BMW video by Timm. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Always my pleasure Alejandro!
a really great explanation of bmw's abs systems, and what to expect -
Thanks!
Hi Timm this is Alvin your number one fan. Thank you for your BMW knowledge.
It's helping a lot of us out here. Thanks again, please tell your wife and daughter that I said hello. 😀
ALVIN! Great to hear from you my friend, keep well
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation u r a genius Tim. I just bought a 99 e39 touring & l have the trifecter + air bag. It's shuddering under breaking & was told it was abs related. Back discs r ropey. Any thoughts mate?
thank you for your contributions to the BMW community Timm! any way i can contact you personally? E38 owner, trifecta lights on...
What was your problem? Did you fix it?
another well explained solution(s0 / especially pre-charge pump replacement- bleeding process
Thanks!
Many thanks for the great explanation, great knowledge sharing with us. many thanks.
My pleasure!
Great video, i'm a little sad because i wasn t able to understand everything due to the language, i will watch it over and over again. I have a e39 with the dsc light always on and sometimes even the abs with all the idles that goes to zero, but when this happens also the a/c compressor stop to work?!?!?!? Do you have an idea why? Thank you!!
Thank you so much for this video. My 2003 540i with DSC is throwing error 15, return pump fault.
When I try to actuate the return pump on ista, I can hear a click from the hydraulic unit. The pre charge pump works fine.
It seems like the hydraulic unit is trying to move but it’s stuck. How common is this? I’d assume due to the fact that it’s “trying” to move would seem like it’s not a wiring issue and more a mechanical issue??
Please share your wisdom, I’m stuck.
Thanks
Thanks for the great video Timm!
My pleasure Gregory!
Awesome video, Your the Master tec of these cars!!
Wow, thanks!
Thanks Timm for your videos! They offer a wealth of information. E60 trifecta (abs, traction, brake) with only code being the rear left wheel sensor. I replaced it and still no luck. Trifecta on at startup. I hope it’s not the dsc module.
It probably is! They can sometimes be rebuilt - check the forums for a trusted repairer
Same problem here ! 528i 2008 Trifecta lights after 1 mile of driving
When is open thys light abs,dsc and brake ceck transfer case actuator inside she have Something whels plastic that happen brok thys is 98% problem whit thys light 😊
Great video again. Thank god for you.
My pleasure as always!
Great knowledge
Very informative video, appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us. 👏
Can I have your opinion on my issue with DSC on 5 series G30 please?
My pleasure!
I have a the amber triangle and amber break light. Fault code is DSC not communicating. Would this be the module kn the pump or the sensor under the driver seat?
E63 635d
Thanks for all your posts.
Thanks for the video. I was hoping to share a photo of the dash display that says:
"ABS 4x4; AWD; DSC; ABS; and EMERG EBV malfunction!
Limited driving stability. Drive moderately. Have the system checked." On my 2008 X5
Any pearls to share?
Yes, same DSC module problems on later models
After swapping my ABS sensor front left to a genuine BMW sensor on my 2000 e38 my trifecta lights dissaperared and ABS started working again with no fault codes, however I can both feel and hear the brake pedal pulsing at ALL times no matter if I lock the wheels or not. Even at slow speeds I can feel the abs kicking in as I gently press the brake pedal. What could cause this?
Tim is brilliant
Very kind of you!
30:00 Hi Timm I found an error in the video, well maybe not an error but you show the method a bit the other way round comparing to your meeknet site. Which might be misleading to some people. At meeknet site, you state to loosely screw in the high pressure line and tighten up the low pressure reservoir line. Then connect external 12V twice, normal work - tighten hp line - and then backward work -done.
Here in video you advise to loosely screw in low pressure line (reservoir side). And then connect external 12V backwards (positive to black), done.
The drawback of the method shown here is that you will be loosing a lot of brake fluid from the loosen reservoir side (low pressure side).
Especially if you cannot bend the line up beyond reservoir level which was my case (E39 530D 2002)
Even if you do nothing the fluid will be spilling from the reservoir, so you have be very quick here and avoid mistakes - cross threading, connecting 12V, the fiddling might be tricky here.
The "meeknet method" prevents you from that leak as you thigten the reservoir line as soon as you installed new pump in place. You have a bit more time to think and proceed with caution.
Both methods in general do the same both are technically ok.
I have replaced my pump using method described at your www site. When removing old pump I did observed vast fluid leak from reservoir side that needed to be stopped asap. I used pre-prepaded plugs from brake hose and screws. I had to be really quick when installing new pump. My only option was to tighten low pressure line at once.
Thanks Bargla, I'll have a look!
Wow, I am going to watch this one again... I never knew the ASC-T could apply brakes. Having grown up with powerful RWD cars I always back off when any slipping occurs. So in actual fact, you need to increase the throttle to counteract the brake?
Yes, it does all sorts Andrew!
Thanks!
Very kind of you, thanks!
I found your meek net info I’ve been searching the web for around 6 hours on my ‘95 e38 740il and I can’t find anything that matches jus right but I’m wondering about my cam and crank sensors and was wondering if I could get some help since you seem to know the most about them
No problem, post up on Bimmerforums.com or .co.uk
I have a e39 1996 with the older style pump and obd 1 in it. The abs and brake warning light is on, also the speedometer dont work. I have switched out the abs pump with a few diffrent ones but no luck.I have also changed the rear left abs sensor. I use Delphi code reader and it sais ''Return pump relay'' under the abs/asc tab. Could this be one of the pink realys shown in the video?
As the speedo isn't working then it must be a wheel sensor that has failed.....
Awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
What's happening at 2:34?
10:54 it is NOT the Easter-Egg Mode it is just disabling the DSC button and if you just press the DSC button that is for snow starting and icey uphils (DTC: OFF DSC: ON) hold the button all OFF
I will have to disagree, the long press on cars with ASC+T is equal to DTC. Long press on DTC does not disable either
Hi Tim, I've had my module rebuilt which resolved most codes, I'm left with one (55 precharge valve) - I've cleared it but the lights remain on then the code returns
I’ve tested the precharge pump with 12v and it fires up fine, tested the plug and it’s sending over 11v but will not fire up through inpa
So again, pre charge valve, no idea if it’s the whole hydro block, the pump, or abs module not repaired properly
If you have DSC you can be sure the module is the problem again!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation cheers Tim, it’s strange that INPA won’t fire the pre charge pump but the battery does - 100% module again then!
Hi Tim,
Can you help
Two lights have come on my dashboard. One yellow triangle with a circle around it and a red brake light. It say’s drive with caution on projector when starting.
Plus my indicator’s won’t cancel on there own.
It’s a e64 635d 2007 LCi facelift
Many thanks
Jason
Hello Jason, I would guess that the error is the steering-angle sensor as that would tie the self-cancelling failure and the ASC/DSC problem
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation many thanks for your reply, I’ll take it apart and clean the disc before I buy new.
On DSC system [BMW E39 530D 2002] I had a Inpa error "Druck Sensor (Offset)". DSC light and ABS light on on the dashboard. What was funny, in Inpa, with no brake pedal pressed, I had reading 5 bar break pressure (under Inpa/E39/DSC5.7/Read Status). After pressing the break pedal the reading would go to 40-50 bar (no engine running so no break assistance). After releasing pedal bars would drop to 5 again. Should be 0. I have another E39 (V8) that reads 0 bar.
My solution was to replace the pressure sensor located on the back side of ABS unit. It was in 2018. Easy job as almost no brake fluid goes out when quick removing sensor. Thought I would have to bleed something but heck no.
Now I have that error again. And another "druck sensor" waiting to be changed. I wonder how it's gonna go, maybe this time it is a heat issue (wirings).
That was more likely to be the pre-charge pump than the pressure sensor - I did exactly the same and had the same results until I changed the pump
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Hi Timm, I have replaced the sensor again today with a "new" aftermarket one. Previous reading of breaking pressure was 1,6 bar, now after replacement it's a solid 0. It still might be pre-charge pump as you say, but the whole system seem to react well on pressure sensor change. Maybe I am changing from a good one to a good one what gives a positive results for a while. But this while was previously couple of years.
Maybe one should do a proper bleeding to at least to ABS pump - pre-charge pump subsection. I will see how it goes on a test drive
i.imgur.com/mHmBTty.jpg
Hi sir. My BMW X5 F15 (2014) 50.000 miles, has abs, parking brake, dst lights on in the dash. Do you think this video content would apply on my car? Tks
Probably not, the system changed in 2004
Hey Tim i have a 1997 540i and i have all three lights on, abs brake and dsc on, also ive noticed my air nag light is on as we. My acceleration is very poor also, would the abs module cause all of this?
No, just coincidence, get the ASC+T sorted out first, then tackle the airbag problem which could well be the seat-occupancy sensor
@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation thank you Timm, I will keep you posted, I appreciate you.
- Hallo Timm, I still have "114 Druck Sensor (Offset)" error in inpa, and my Trifecta hits me when speed is greater than 30kmh. It doesn't seem to be due to heat. I have replaced already the pressure sensor on main DSC unit, but it seems to be a false lead. I sometimes get an error from right front speed sensor in inpa, but the driving test with inpa connected show all speed sensors transmiting the speed. Which is funny as I am able to read speed to 19kmh only and after that I get disconnected from the module with a error message from inpa. And that's the end of the test. But to that 19kmh all speed sensors seem to show speeds eavenly and smooth.
- As for the "Pressure sensor" problem you advise in the video to change the pre-charge pump. In inpa I am able [when stationary] to activate both pumps using the "Activate" menu under the "ASC/DSC" tree. So it looks like the pre-charge pump is electrically working (both pumps give like 10 second buzz showing they work). I have not tried to jump start the pre charging pump directly from other 12V source yet since I am able to activate it in inpa. So would you still recommend to replace the pump anyway? Or would it be speed sensor lead?
...................
On the other note: I would like to thank you for keeping the Meeknet webpage alive ( i.e www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/abs/index.htm)
It's a great site for years now, and so many valuable bmw sites has been down already due to social media phenomena. Which is a shame.
And your site is up and kicking. Big thanks.
It does sound like the pre-charge pump is running - and as you have changed the pressure sensor then I would suspect that the DSC module is not connected to it due to a failed wire within the unit. That is unusual but not impossible - at 30kph the DSC module expects to see a rise of pressure from the sensor so, one of three things - the pump is not providing that pressure - the pressure sensor does not measure the increase - the DSC module is not connected to the sensor. Those are the possibilities.
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Excuse me to revive old topic, by I did managed to solve my problem. It was RF wheel speed sensor! It had a failing connection as insulation was breaking near the wheel. That’s why I saw it in inpa as 4 speed sensors working during a test drive. That’s what misleaded me in diagnosis! So the speed sensor replaced and problem gone! Thanks for all the assistance!
i was hoping that my abs senors where bad but i guess precharging pump is dead. i got code for it as well (58 code) E39 530D. Can you drive with bad precharging pump ?
You will lose your ABS - so, not that safe!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation another ABS sensor was dead. So all good 🙏🏼
I've just changed my N/S/F wheel bearing on my E38 as it was badm since doing so a few meters down the road the ABS and traction control lights have come on. Could I have done something wrong or maybe a faulty bearing?
Did you change the bearing or the hub? The hub has the reluctance ring on it and non-OEM hubs can have non-compatible reluctance rings. If you changed just the bearing then check that the reluctance ring was not damaged during the procedure
@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I changed the whole hub. Upon further research I reckon the reluctance ring in the new bearing is not compatible (may just be a rubber seal). I have ordered another brand (febi) which looks like in the picture it has the an abs ring (you can make out the little squared of the magnetic pickups in the pictures). We shall see how that one goes when it arrives. Thank you!
have a 2000 bmw z3... dsc light comes on when reaching 20 mph.. other than that no lights come on,, do u think this is a wheel speed sensor issue? at first the abs and DCS light would come on as soon as the car was started and stay on.. we took the car and had it scanned and it showed rear right wheel speed sensor was bad.. we replaced it.. after that all lights went off and stayed off until the 20 mph speed was achieved, then the DCS light comes on and syas on until the next key on/off cycle
thanks , im going to locate and test the pre pump motor, as I believe it is a seperate component and not integrated with the module and abs unit. if it doesnt run, I will try to reverse polarity, as I have freed up DC motors and a few AC motors this way in the past. from what ive gathered though, the pre pumps seize up due to rust and sludge in the system from lack of servicing the system. we bought the car abt a year ago and dont know the service history. if the pump runs, I will then focus on the DSC module. I have some experience with soldering electrical connections. your vid was very helpful and informative as to how everything works. I now understand alot more. thanks
My pleasure!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Sir, we have located the pre pump for the DSC system on the 2000 BMW Z3. we direct tested it with a 12 volt battery and it did not run and blew the inline 20 amp fuse that I have installled in my test leads.. we plan to extract the motor and take it apart to see if we can unstick it.. the windings arent burned, the pump is mechanically seized.. I can hear it try to turn when first putting power to it, but it doesnt go.. I tried reversing the polarity, and that did not help.. I would like to know where the fuse for the pre pump is located, because I think it is likely blown,, inside the underhood fusebox cover it says there are 2 fuses under the steering column. we looked and there are no fuses, just 2 relays.. attached to the main fusebox under the hood, there is a small fuse box, that holds 4 or 5 fuses. we have found no other fuses in the car. the info inside the fuse box cover says there is a 40 and a 50 amp fuse under the steering column,, any direction much appreciated.
just found a wiring diagram and see that power to the pre pump comes from the DSC MODULE. so I wont know if its cooked until I put a working pre pump in, or get a scanner with bi directional; controls.. I cant see a way to pull the pre pump out, without removing the fuse box.. we have removed the left front wheel and cowling.
Wow I'm dealing with this exact problem ony 2009 550i 4.8. I was driving 2 weeks ago on expressway I clicked the cruse control and went to get over and boom ( DBC malfunction) pops up I lost power and Break light came on. I made it home okay, later that day is started it up everything was fine went for a drive to test it and boom 15 minutes later happened again. I'm trying to figure out what is the actual cause. Speed/ abs sensor, reluct ring, steering sensor or abs pump or sensor. Any idea?
You are going to need diagnostics for that one - let us know what ABD/DSC errors you find
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I pulled this code for the DSC using my Autel maxicom (006DFB) Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) control unit pump activation. Am I right that it's saying the Pump is not activating? and if so do you know the cause and how I could fix it?
@@frankenstein6071 The answer is in the video including pump replacement
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thank you such, Timm.
Thank you very much. I am having a DSC issue on a 2011 BMW 750. The mechanic wants to replace the entire ABS module and sensors. Too much money🤪
I should coco!
What Pendulum songs are your favorites?
I only had one album and that was Blood Sugar - that had a lot of sub-bass!
Good mornin,
dommage qu'on ne puisse pa avoir cette vidéo en français.
Désolé, j'ai assez de mal avec l'anglais !
My daughter has a 2001 740i. She replaced the rear wheel sensors and when the battery was hooked back up and we test drove everything worked fine but the lights were still on in the dash. Once we turned the car off for a bit and got back in it the lights went off but then the brakes were pulsing at low speed to stop. Then she replaced the front speed sensors and the exact same thing happened. we need advice on how to proceed from here?
Hello Diana, this will be one of two possibilities. First is that you didn't use BMW OEM sensors (they are expensive) and used cheap copies - these often do not work and will cause the problem you are seeing. Or, the reluctance ring under the sensor and part of the hub was damaged during the sensor change. Of these, copy sensors is the most likely
Hello, did you ever solve the issue? I am having similar issues now with the brakes pulsing at low speed..
I have a 2000 e38 that via INPA says there is a line break to the front left speed sensor, however I have tried pulling my own wire and the problem persists. I also swapped the sensor without change. My lights don't come on when I first put the key in but instead as soon as the wheels start rotating even slightly! Any idea?
That will be a failing DSC module!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thank you! A friend of mine thought it would be worth pulling the PCB out and putting it into a soldering oven / reflow oven! Do you have any inputs to that idea?
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Update:
I was also really convinced that it was the module. I had already decided to send it in for repair but thought of doing just one more thing to test it before sending it in. In the contact up in the hood I peeled some of the insulation off on the sensor wires and did my own wires from the left speed sensor to the right sensors contacts and vice versa, to see if the problem shifted to the other side in INPA or not. Turns out the left front abs sensor connector in the module worked after all as I managed to get it to register wheel movement when I spun the right wheel with the sides flipped. Ended up buying a third sensor but this time a genuine BMW one, now it works. The previous two sensors I tried were Hitachi and Hella, so no noname brands, but still they were apparently garbage.
Another Update! :
It seems swapping to a BMW genuine sensor SORT OF fixed the problem... Unless what I'm experiencing now is something completely different? My trifecta lights all dissapeared and the car doesn't give any fault codes any longer, however it seems the ABS is still confused. It now pulses the brake pedal at ALL times, even at very slow speeds. It almost feels like it looses connection to the sensor once every wheel spin but only for a very short period as the pedal pulsing seems to be connected to wheel speed. I read somewhere that this could happen if your brake rotors were warped (which mine were), so I swapped all my rotors and brake pads but the problem still remains. Does anyone have an idea??
@@Poizon- The behaviour usually means that one of the wheel sensors is not able to get a continuous signal from the reluctance ring on the hub. This has become more common now as more and more hubs are starting to corrode - and that affects the reluctance ring. However, you have replaced the hubs - what do diagnostics show now? My guess is probably nothing!
I need to know what this is and how do I know if it works or notBMW E46 DSC Compressor ABS Pump Module Bosch driver side is a compressor and the passenger side I guess it's the pump not all E46 are the same and my pressure sensor it's only one and it's nowhere near the master cylinder it's located on the passenger side and it's only one
All the BMW's have an ABS block and a pre-charge pump of some sort - on cars with ASC+T it is part of the hydraulic block - on cars with DSC it is a separate pump
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation what's the purpose of a pre-charge pump I'm just trying to figure out why my pedal when I hit the brakes was a little hard like it was grinding on something abs and turns out to be okay after I just changed the back of the module with the another motor and it seems like I've done a good job of it I just need to know what the purpose of a pre-charged pump that's what I have on my driver side
Hi Timm and everyone else. My 2002 E39 530i has a strange problem and hopefully someone can shed some light on my issue.
When I'm cruising at around 100kph (60mph) on the highway, if I put my foot down to overtake, the traction light comes on blinking and cuts my power.
I need to completely release the accelerator and then slowly reapply the accelerator. If I switch the DSC off amd try the same thing, the car is fine and gives me full power when I mash the pedal at 100kph.
Its not throwing any error codes nor are there any error lights on the dash. My mechanic says, he read live data from the car to see if any of the wheel speed sensors were spoilt. He said all 4 sensors were giving out speed readings up until about 30kph and then he lost all communication of live data. He was no longer able to read any of the wheel speeds.
All of the above is repeatable consistently.
Car is a 2002 E39 530i with an 001 ABS module.
Anyone jas experienced this issue before? How did you diagnose and fix this issue?
Thank you soo much!
I bought one of my E34s that within the first 1-10mins of driving would error out and switch off the ASC+T. A complete set of new wheel speed sensors fixed it.
@@greebj Thank you for the reply. Mine is different though. Its not switching of thebtraction control. Its actually working and cutting my power for no reason. Completely dry and hot road on a straight highway. 😭
my point was bad sensors can cause errors, you stated the sensors were losing signal, so that's where I'd start. Because if that leads to a fix you're laughing, since checking the wiring is probably incredibly labour intensive and swapping bespoke ABS/TC parts is probably incredibly expensive
On the V8 E34 getting rid of the throttle cut part of the ASC is often done to improve the fun factor and is very easy and totally reversible
Check your tyre sizes - if the rolling diameter is different, especially front-to-rear then you will get those problems, tell us your tyre sizes and I will check
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation
Hi Timm,
Front: 235/45 R17 Michelin PS4
Rear: 245/40 R17 Michelin PS4
Rims are BMW Style 66, Staggered.
Thank you soo much for taking the time to reply.
Great !!
Thanks!
Sometimes it's as simple as having dirty ABS sensors or dirty crown wheels.
That's true!
What principle for the x5 model
Hi, my name is Dennis. I have a 2008 BMW X5 Sport! Lately I'm having difficulty with my car! Abs, brake and traction lights are On and steering and driving become difficult! What repairs are needed and at what estimate cost!
Same problem as the E38: www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/ABS/Index.htm
The brushes apart and replace in the motor of the abs unit wear down and then do not make contact with electrical coil pull apart and replace brushes fixed I purchased a second hand one that the car had done 5000 klm and same problem nothing else wrong with the unit check first after removal of unit cost $11.0 dollars au
Thanks Peter, very useful info!
Thanks the car had done 120000klm and this was the second time it had been repaired or replaced before we bought it 70,000 klm so appears to be a common problem the plastic housing must melt enough to lock the brushes so then the contact is lost. The brushes on mine were half worn but the one I bought on eBay were barely worn like new but they were stuck also very cheap made
Why did you sell it?
I had too many cars, and the 840ci really took the 740's place. It's now moved to New Zealand!
😢
What happened to your hair 😩
My wife very kindly cut it for me, I'll pass on your appreciation!
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks!
My pleasure!