How to strip and clean a technics 1200 and 1210 Pitch slider.
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- čas přidán 8. 06. 2017
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I had a really bad complete pitch unit and a not too bad pitch fader, so I decided to swap them over and give everything a good clean.
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I am adding a new rule. No help or questions answered unless it's related to the video and you are subscribed to the channel. It takes up to much time to reply and I am not free tech support.
Hi legion, i have a mint technics, but a scratchy pitch. Do i need a specidic deoxit faderlube in a botttle, or spray? Would really appreciate it 👍🏻
@@wreignone the ones I use in the video. I clean the carbon tracks with the deoxit d5, let it dry and then coat in the faderlube. One thing I should point out is the deoxit and lube will cost more than a new pitch slider.
@@DJlegionuk yeah i leqnrt thatthe hard way lol i spent 70$au for deoxit, then 30 for grease and rubbing alcohol. Lol then, i realised how much pitch faders were. I got an authentic mk5 pitch fader for 180au. I figured I will just buy in case i need the part as i have quite a few of them. Its ok though, thanks for the info 👍🏻 also, in the end, i found that given its been sat there in a dry climate for a long time, the motor needed a couple drops of oil, but the main issue was there was no grease in it. Not sure how it happened tbh. But it did need some new grease. Appreciate your videos. I like watching these repair videos. Very cool 👍🏻
Now this is state of art skill and video demonstration. Wow.
Thank you very much for the time you spent on teaching us. This is wonderful !
That was amazing, thank you! One of my faders is currently very sticky, and your video has given me the confidence to have a crack at fixing it 😁
Lost the little bearing ball, found it again!! I'm one lucky bastard ... Thx for the tut, man, did help a lot!
I have about 10 pitch faders that need deep cleaning . Thank you very much!!!
Not all of them can be saved if the carbon is too worn cleaning will not help.
Did you ever cleaned them pitches?
man, this is pure art.
I’ve just done this on one deck to make sure it’s the slider faulty not the board under platter. Worked flawlessly. Perfect reading after. If you have no money I recommend this. If you can just buy 2 and replace. I didn’t have any grease so it was gritty but still worked perfectly. Don’t make my mistake. GET GREASE AND USE IT!
Great info. I enjoy this vid. Thanks for sharing
I felt like I was watching a scary movie with the soundtrack...lol. Great job!
This is brilliant. Thanks for documenting this!
thanks for watching.
hey excellent tutorial. I followed it for my pitch fader on 1210mk2.
Just one remark, it should show 2.7kΩ +-0.1 based on the manual.
Good day, good start to the year, I wanted to see what lubricant you use to coat the track after cleaning it and that the pitch comb runs well. thanks.
Hi there. This is a fab video and thank you. Can you confirm the name of the lubricant you used on the resistor pads?
Thanks
Henry
Looks like this is what I'm going to have to do with my decks. I've noticed fine pitch adjustments aren't happening; when i get a record close to match, any fine adjustments throw it off.
I've only ever had to repair one fader and it wasn't that successful. Thank you for showing how to do it properly, I now know how I screwed it up so what not to do next time.
How did you messed it up the first time. What did you do wrong? I did mine following this vid and it was great. Just like to know what to look out for.
@@rsanchez7111 I had no idea what I was doing and used something that was too abrasive to clean the tracks (a light scouring pad from memory), wearing them down to the point where I couldn't get any contact on them. It was one of those 'dumb teenager thinking they knew everything' moves.
@@nemonada3501 oh. I see. Usually alcohol it's good to start off. I will not use anything other than alcohol 92 %. Dries fast. Then apply deoxit then the fader lube.
Then after the metal case is cleaned. Apply white lithium grease. Thx mate
@@rsanchez7111 Thank you. I recently bought some secondhand equipment that i'm going to have to do a bit of cleaning on so i didn't want to be screwing anything up again so all suggestions on effective methods and techniques are appreciated at this point in time. After screwing up that first controller I've been researching how to do it all since. I'm not going to make the same mistakes twice 😂
@@nemonada3501 agree. When cleaning inside by the mother board I will use pure asopropyl alcohol it will dry fast. Nothing else. No water or Windex.
Thank you for video. At 7:00 when you attach the multimeter, what exactly are the multimeter settings you need to use to get the right display to calibrate? I don’t know what to set the dial of the multimeter at, or even which outlets to use from the tool. Can you advise please.
I think it's 20 oms
Show o vídeo sabe me dizer o calibragem pitch numark tt 1650 ?
I got one caution for anyone taking a mark 2 apart: START at the part where the fader is at. Pry it up and protect the part. What I did was when taking the back cover off I had no idea the fader and the circuit board was RIGHT on the casing, and in removing the back panel I broke the fader PCB.
And like almost every part on the turntable they're all custom made with no idea what the spec is, meaning you're stuck buying parts that are no longer made and therefore expensive.
I think they learned their lesson on the Mark 3 because they kept the PCB away from the rubber back panel.
DJ Legion Firstly, Thank you for the most amazing and precisely filmed, well explained tutorial and info videos. I've watched many other videos related to these topics on CZcams, and when I come back here and the wow factor strikes each time.
Now for my question(s) related to this video. Now as a small warning warning I am not super accurate in my technical jargon so apologies in advance if I slip up...
As I am currently facing a pitch replacement issue I am curious as to aftermarket variable resistors akin to the Technics OEM branded ones. Are we forced to use the expensive aftermarket items or is there not a suitable 20K sliding resistor which does the same job? What sets the difference. Sure I do not mean putting in a 50p pitch slider , but surely there are items which are suitable , and how does or rather what differentiates these from what come with the SL1200/1210s. Maybe its a simple answer ? but I though if someone may have so good advice, it may be you!?
Cheers ,and all the best for 2022
you have to use the ones made for the technics and a basic alps 20k slider will not work. please don't ask why or if you could make it work, my answer will be no, not ever. You can use the newer type on the older mk2 it just does not have the option to light up the led with it's in the center for pitch lock.
Masterclass pitch resuscitator
I'm curious of the amount of physical resistance the fader has using this method.
Ideally a thick silicon grease might be used to make it so you can dial in pitch adjustments to a very minute fraction rather than sliding easily.
I guess that is up to you, I just used what I have and I like them to feel easy to move, but that is just a personal preference.
Hi DJ Legion all my respect from Buenos Aires! Can the pitch slide SFDZ122N11-4 (for 1200m5g 1210m5k) works well on 1200 mk2? Thank you very much for this video, and this anwser too.
Sorry I do not know, The pitch is different because they have pitch lock button so I have never tried.
Thanks for this 🙏❤️🙏
Μπράβο φίλε.
Why my green led doesn't light up on zero position? But it works with reset (to zero) button.
I remember doing this to my old mixer crossfaders. You can only do it a few times tho as them little metal tabs that hold the circuit board down tend to break after a few goes. Im here now as ive got some decks and for some reason one of them changes pitch for no reason, first port of call is the pitch control.
and I only do when the the pitch is very bad and not on every one I look at. If they are jumping around it could be worn carbon trace, brushes or a heavy build-up of dirt.
@@DJlegionuk I will crack them open soon, need to get some contact cleaner and fader lube first.
Ok, ive got mine apart and im going to leave the ball bearing out as ive never liked the middle bit where it sorta locks, its one thing ive wanted to disable. Each to their own i guess, some people like, some dont.
May I ask why you recommend pitch resistance to be at 2.90 in this video but at 2.70 at the other one that deals with calibration? I’d like to find the best option for my MK5, dont really know of you can apply the MK2 specification to them. Thank you!
HI, so I have found it can be one or the other, some times it needs 2.7k and other times 2.9k and it's a matter of using the dots to judge the pitch instead of setting what the service guides says. You can tell how the dots change when you move back or forth from the centre click it should change back and forth a small amount and when it's wrong you will have what's known as a double 0 point.
@@DJlegionuk Thanks for the head up, are you UK resident btw?
@@SounDJuggleR yes
Hi, great video. I have done this myself with a small tube of fader lube. The only issue I have is that it seems that the top metal casing has a different type of grease which seems thicker and gives the slider a smooth heavier slide which feels like a new replacement fader. Do you have any idea what grease it is?
It's most likely silicone grease CST 4000 or 5000.
White lithium grease
I started in 1992 with Technics and they are still my deck of choice... but when I played on a pair of Reloop RP-8000's I was amazed at how smooth the pitch slider was compared to the grainy feel of the Technics I have tried (MK2, MK3d, MK5, M5g) The Reloop pitch fader still has a heavy feel to it but it glides as smooth silk. The Technics pitch fader doesn't seem to respond to small amounts of force. If you try to nudge the pitch a small amount the Technics pitch doesn't budge so you apply a bit more pressure... still nothing until you add just a tiny bit more, but then it moves too much. Is there any way to install a Reloop pitch fader in a Technics? I think the Reloop fader is digital so this mod could probably work with the M5G or MK7. Do you think it's possible?
You would need to know what spec the fader is. Apart from the fact that fader pots are really hard to find, they're custom made for the turntable and have no idea what the value is (no value is listed on the service manual at all).
Thank you for the video. I have a Pioneer DJM V10 and I wish to replace the stems on the channel faders so they can fit the sliding channel fader knobs (as opposed to p-lock square design knobs). Or possibly have them ground down so they can fit the channel fader knobs. Do you do the type of work or know someone who does? Is replacing just the metal stem difficult. Thank you.
Excuse my ignorance but what are the stems? And that's a brand new mixer very expensive and hard to get. And why would you want to do that ? Thx. I am still waiting for mine. It's been months. Hopefully by march 2022
@@rsanchez7111 I had a Pioneer DJM-1000 (Pioneer's first 6-channel mixer running 24bit at 96kHz). I got it as soon as it was released. The V10 excels at one thing, producing the clearest sound possible (it's not as warm as an analog mixer but again, it's made for clarity). It's the greatest mixer I've ever owned. It's because of the V10, I started into production. The mixer definitely blurs the line between DJing and production... yes, it's that powerful. The beat effects are what you would expect. But the send effects are what gives it an edge (pedal effects like reverb, long delay, short delay, and dub echo). In addition, the ability to send signals to other channels allows for powerful remixing, effects capabilities, and creation of new sounds (I've yet to master this capability). I have an Eventide H9Max effects processor, Boss GT-1000 Core effects processor, Pioneer AS-1 synthesizer, Pioneer SP-16 sampler, Korg Wavestate synthesizer, and series of the synthesizers... as in, the V10 can easily be placed in a production studio. The LPF and HPF are organic with resonance controls and sound spectacular. Then, there are the compression controls which makes vinyl sound superb.
Honestly, the V10 has been a serious game changer. I've never had a piece of gear that has inspired me to get into full blown production.
@@ErwinSchrodinger64 cool. Thx for that info. I am still waiting to get mine. It's paid for it. I just don't wanna missed out on this mixer. Probably I will order the one with the long faders as well. I am into analog mixers. But I do want to get my hands on the v10. They're gonna become rare as the Allen and heath xone S6. Back then I didn't have the money. And now they want a fortune for one of them. I am into analog rotary mixers. I own 2 urei 1620 original and 2 Bozak CMA 10 2DLC THEY SOUND AMAZING old technology but superb after 40 years plus. Thx mate
@@rsanchez7111 I have a friend of mine that has rotary Condesa Carmen V Mixer and a Allen & Heath V6. I would have to say the V6 has to be one of the warmest sound mixers I ever heard.
That being said. As a word of caution, again, the V10 doesn't have the warm sounds of those analog mixers. It's clarity above all. As a matter of fact, it wasn't apparent of the capabilities of it's clarity until I hooked it up to my Pioneer CDJ3000 and the difference was immediately apparent. In addition, because of the V10 internal 64bit mixing and effects processing, along with its 32bit AD and DA convertors, it adds effects effortlessly and beautifully.
@@ErwinSchrodinger64 yes I was aware about the v10 compared to the analog ones. Thanks for the info.
Could I ask what kind of components are in the PCB spray? Any example in amzon or ebay?
you can use IPA or Isopropyl alcohol to clean the pcb first and then use Deoxit D5 after.
Does anyone know the correct orientation of the metal H thing that sits on the slider? (4:47). One of my decks came with it that way up and the other had it upside down. Doesn't seem like it makes a difference but would be interesting to know the factory standard...
The factory standard seems to be with the “legs” pointing downwards towards the white plastic body. I have noticed that this seems to give slightly less sliding resistance than the orientation in this video, but that could also have been my imagination.
Hey where i live i have no chance on getting that Faderlube without high cost of shipping. so it makes no sense for me to buy that. I have twice delivery costs as the product costs. Can i use Teflonspray or other things? greetz tom
Wondering whats the correct Ohm on the pitch for measuring One movies show 2.7 this other movies shows 2.9
So I am not sure why, but it can be 2.7 or 2.9 for some reason. I made this showing how to follow the service guide, but I also find a lot of them need to be 2.9 and I normally just adjust manually using the dots and not measuring the frequency like I show.
I've owned my 1200s for 2 years first time owning a pair I've been doing gigs for a year now. Any donts when it comes to cleaning them ? Thank you
Do not spill any liquids direct to the pitch faders. And when removing the platters do not spill anything right onto the main board even if the cover it's on still. Treat them as you treat your girlfriend
I want to try this out on my deck but I do not have a vice - should I go for it anyways or buy a vice first?
you don't want to bend the metal out of shape so I would find someway to clamp before trying.
Do you know what kind of potentiometer goes in the the pcb of a 1200M3D? Took mine apart and it was so corroded, that it broke in pieces.
not of the top of my head, it should be easy enough to google
Ominous music man.
last one lol ive replaced borth pitch but for future reff is this the right stuff DeoxIT® Fader Squeeze Tube, 100% solution, 2 ml
as it a lot cheapy than the spy or is it no good look forwould to your reply pc for lubeing the board
yes that is the same as I have, but a smaller amount.
Hi. I have a problem with a pitch with my 1210 mk2. In practice the problem is the double zero. With the pitch at zero (and the LED on) it turns perfectly, when i accelerate with the pitch in the Moment that the led turns off instead of going faster, the turntable slows down to return to a new zero on a value of about +2.5. It holds the +6 and +3.3 very well, a little less the -3.3 but it is at acceptable levels.
Searching on the web I found various tutorials to solve my problem, the point is that when I connect the multimeter to the pitch (obviously disconnected from the turntable) I have an X value, and going to modify the VR302 trimmer that value should modify right? To me it remains fixed and constant.
The tests I have carried out are the following:
I have completely replaced the pitch, putting the One of my other turntable, and it works perfectly, so I rule out problems with the motherboard or others stuffs of the turntable.
With the Multimeter attached to the Brown and Red of the pitch (disconnected from the turntable) I tried to move the pitch fader and the value changes (so apparently the fader is good) but with the same configuration by acting on the vr302 the value remains fixed and constant (so apparently the vr302 doesn't work).
At that point I connected the Multimeter to the vr302 and rotating it the value changes, so apparently it is good.
I am also going crazy because if there was something to replace I would not know what specifically, and with the times that are running I do not want to spend more than I should. 😬
Sorry if I wrote a lot but I hope I have explained the problem well and what tests I did.
Hi I've heard about the double 0. I think you created that issue. But there is a tutorial that should you how to get rid of it. And set it to specs. I think frank Vipers has that vid.
Nice vid. I've done this. But I had no grease or lube It worked ok thanks for sharing
do they feel OK when you move the slide ?
DJ legion feels ok. But I wish I used the special grease for it. But works ok. No complaints. Some one had spelled soda on the pitch. And it was stock and non working. I paid 300$ US dollars for the pair. But I got them in good working condition
you could still get some and do again
www.amazon.com/DeoxITFaderLube-Liquid-squeeze-tube-solution/dp/B003D8G83O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504292619&sr=8-3&keywords=fader+lube
DJ legion awesome. For sure.i will take them apart. And I also removed the spring to by pass the 0 position. I love it.
@@DJlegionuk why you don’t put fader grease on the metal slide?
www.ebay.es/itm/254383758137
I wonder if just putting fader lube as you recommended does the job?
nice, thanks
Where can I buy the fader? Mine just broke on middle while removing the pitch button.
ebay or any technics specialist
Hello, why do you calibrate the pitch to 2.89 if the technics manual says that you have to do it at 2.7? Thank you.
look at some of the comments and you will see this has been asked many times and other people have also found this. It is not always 2.7 and you have to go by the dots on the platter. parts wear out over time it should be 2.7, but more and more times I find 2.9 works.
@@DJlegionuk thanks
@@DavidC.. I should do a follow up video showing as so many people ask this
@@DJlegionuk please, it would be alright.
Nice vid. Could you provide the name or a link to the device that you used to calibrate to 2.9? My micrometer doesnt go down that low. Thanks
it's just a super cheap £5 multimeter to measure resistance and any type will work for this.
Yea I have a Extech MN26T multimeter and tried doing a pitch calibration with it (like 7 years ago) but I recall it not going down low enough to properly calibrate. I'll have another look at it. If you have any recommendations Id appreciate your input! Thanks again!
you calibrate the centre point so going low enough does not matter as long at it's 0 ohm at one end.
the music in this video sounds like a really dramatic movie about fader maintenance, good vid tho
Hi, nice video. Please what can i do if pitch led is not working ? All cable and pcb solder point is ok... tried to resold everything. Tried the led and it is not burned, it works and lights (with an external power source). Pitch slider stop fine in the middle, but no power the led....
check TP 20 on the main board it should be 2.8v. The other reason is the carbon tracks are damaged on the pitch even through the quartz lock is ok.
DJ legion nice!!
hi any one no what the Technics 1210 MRK 2 VR302 Pitch Control Gain Adjustment connected on the Pitch Fader PCB
ohm is the plenty to choose from but don't no what the ohm to get is any help so can get 1 before xmas would be great thanks in advance
I will check tomorrow.
What is the name of the machine you used to calibrate the pitch to factory settings
it's a multi meter.
Thanks sunshine, good video with the best content.
Don’t suppose you have had a slider that won’t light the pitch lock light with this level of deterioration? I have a deck that it doesn’t send a signal to for the lock led. I’m confident after watching your video to crack it apart, but concerned that it might be something else… I assume( hopefully not make an as out of me and you!🤦) that it’s a contact issue on the pcb and contact legs rather than a problem with the main board…
Your thoughts and ideas are more than welcome…
Kindest regards,
Tim
HI, it will be the carbon has worn out on the pitch pcb or the brushes are damaged, but i would say carbon. You will need to replace the pitch.
Skills !!!
Is it possible to clean the pcb with isopropyl alcohol? Or does it damage the pcb?
Cheers
yes you can clean the pcb with that, but you need to take care of the grease inside and also this will not clean the brishes that make contact with the pcb. so it is not that simple.
sorry if you are taking the pcb apart then IPA will be 100% safe to use on the PCB.
How many watts is that soldering iron
@ DJ legion
I don't remember, but if you are looking for a good one I now use a TS100 with a 24v PSU and I would recommend it to anyone.
Great video. Does anyone offer this as a postal service?
With patience you can do it. This vid is really good you can't go wrong.
What is a name of lube?
So what’s the real setting. 2.70. Or 2.90. Cause I watched your other vid and it shows a different resistance. Thx
it's a matter of setting it to 2.7 as per the service manual and testing with the dots and moving either side of the click and then adjusting as needed. Sometimes it needs to be 2.9 and I cant tell you a reason why.
DJ legion makes sense. I understand now. Thanks for taking your time and reply much appreciated.
The service manual says clearly 2.7kOhm +/- 0.1kOhm. Never heard of 2.9kOhm. Same thing for the DjForum regarding 2.875kOhm and newer 8 legs pots.
The calibirating part at TP27 is more importantant. Frequency is 262,08 kHz (+/- 0,05 kHz).
Btw. When you adjust the trimpot to 2.7kOhm it doesn't matter at which position the slider is. It doesn't need to be necessary in the middle clicked position. But it must be at Zero when you adjust the frequency at TP27. Use an oscilloscope for this operation
@@thierryroche2342 the old I mean very old pitch sliders have 3 legs per side.
The new ones have 4 per side.
I am doing a lot of repair jobs on the TECHNICS 12x0. Nearly a hundred. Never encountered 3 pins leg. With 2.7k and the right frequency i always obtain the best result
Hey DJ legion, I've got another question for you. Is this pitchfader which is shown in the video still working up to now? In the last days I've contacted a lot of people asking about their experiences with cleaning pitch faders on technics and they all suggested to not do it, scince it will work fine shortly and after a while it will cause new problems.
Best Regards!
not this one, but I have done the same to the deck I use for testingh last year with no new promlems. Did these other people tell you want these new propoblems are ? you have to understand that these are 10, 20 years old so cleaning can only fix so many things and you do risk damaging the delicate brushes inside, removing pads and tracks on the PCB if you are not carefull. The carbon can be worn out and cleaning will do nothing to fix that. I suggest you just take your decks and have them serviced instead of trying to do it your self.
@@DJlegionuk
Yeah they actually specified:
After the cleaning it shortly gets better but afterwards the Carbo PCB gets more waisted because it is very difficult to find a proper lube for the fader's brushes not to scratch it.... Which actually makes sense...
I sent an inquiry to the company "alps" which crafted those Carbo PCBs and asked them what the best lubrication substance would be.
@@leninonacid2358 what about the Deoxit fader f100l I use ?
@@DJlegionuk
I don't know to be honest but it seems to be too thin... I ve found right now a comment beneath mine which was posted by "SquarepegChannel" which Actually makes a lot sense.
I am waiting for the answer of ALPS.
Have you tried yet restoring those Carbo tracks?
Would be the most interesting question, because spare parts are getting rarer and rarer...
@@leninonacid2358 i could not find a definate answer as to how to repair them yet.
But yes, thank you for the video. Well made.
thanks, I am working on a few ways to record so I can try and find the best way to use my setup and space that I have. I was working on a overhead camera mount this weekend and it worked well unless you catch it and it wobbles.
The quality of the camera work is really second to none of any technics repair/mod videos out there. I've probably watched nearly all the sl1200/1210 repair videos on you tube. After watching this a second time I can see the effort put into the video production. I like the video effects and the subtle music is a nice touch. I could see an exhaustive collection of videos about servicing/modding decks becoming a very popular and useful resource. Thank you and Please keep up the good work.
Dang. Can you come do this to the one I just bought? You make it look so easy. I unfortunately bought a mk2 with a rough slider today and I'm not too thrilled. The rest of the deck is solid, the pitch is calibrated right but when sliding forward up it is rough, but down it's fine.
it does not always work, if the carbon tracks are warn no amount of cleaning with fix it. Same if the brushes on the slider are damaged. what is wrong with yours ?
@@DJlegionuk I bought a Mk2 and M3D to replace a mint pair I had sold 10 years ago because I no longer had room and needed some cash. So I found a guy on Craigslist, got a M3D and MK2 that he said had been in storage since 2003. The Mk2 was dirty as heck but we tested the power and all lights worked and platter held 0, 3.3 and 6 perfectly. I didn't realize at the time though that the fader feels gritty when I slide it up to raise the pitch. The M3D has a nice fader but I checked the calibration at home and it holds 0 but what should be +6 is around 7 and +3.3 is closer to +4. So I might just resell the Mk2. Another issue it has is the rear hinges appear to be messed with. They are just flat and there is a piece sliding around in the middle. I still have the dust covers from my originals and I never even took the m3D dust cover which attaches with the magnets out of the plastic and foam it came in. The cover for my mk2 has its hinges but won't work with the Mk2 I bought since this person did something odd to the rear hinges. Also the brushes along the pitch fader on the mk2 are pretty dirty with little bits of crud in them. I will probably just get another M3d and get rid of the Mk2. Also the Mk2 has a bent RCA which I noticed when I got home, which shouldn't be hard to cut and place new connectors on. Thanks
if this was mine I would replace the actual pitch slider on the mk2 with a pitch from a mk3 so you would have a pair with no click and then just fit new phono. I have a vid for that as well czcams.com/video/zgGHISbDb2I/video.html. The parts are not that expensive so it just depends if you have the tools and skills to desolder the old pitch and replace it. I do think cleaning would help in this case and the other just needs calibrating which is also easy and I am sure viperfrank has a vid showing how to do that.
Chris Pruiett man I love to work on mk2’s. All that it’s maintenance a lot of that can be fixed. I just purchased 2 mk2 very old a little beat up. I am just gonna clean then. New led for the target light. Take a part the pitch slider and clean it Recalibrate them. New. RCA’s. Re grease the tone arm. Oil the bearings and spindle. It’s fun so far. I am working on when I get a chance. After work. Just for fun
@@DJlegionuk sometimes you can pull the small brushes or tiny legs up. To create some resistance. But you have to be super careful
Hey, I have a problem, I got in +8% a value different than 0 and in the -8% a value of 18.0 aprox.. what is wrong? thanks
I dont understand, value of 18 on what ?
@@DJlegionuk Pitch 0 I get 2.7 Kohm, and when I move to +8 and -8.. I should get 0kohm and 20 kohm or more , and I do not get those values..
@@grhosso do you have it disconnected from the turntable ? I would say the carbon tracks are dirty, worn or damaged and look to replace it.
@@DJlegionuk Yes, I checked it disconnected. Measurements are: -8 = 17.9Kohm and +8=2.6ohm.. should be 0 and 20kohm right? Should I replace it by a new one?
@@grhosso I would take apart and look at the carbon and then clean and try again, but it depends if you have the tools and also the correct cleaning and lub products. I made a video showing this, but a few people said I didnt use the correct lube. It's not easy to do. I would just buy a new clickless one for £15 and not worry about it.
In place of Deoxit, can you use WD40? Thankful.
I wouldn't recommend that.
@@DJlegionuk, thanks.
Very nice job! Would you like to sell that fader?
It would have been used a long time ago !!
2:57 ..AHA! and now I think I know where that ball bearing comes from, which I found rolling around in the TT chasis! unless there are other mystery balls I am yet to discover which are not in there place!?
The on off switch has a ball bearing too, I bet it was that one.
@@DJlegionuk most likely correct!
The slider contacts are really fragile and complicated to be perfectly cleaned . The best way is an ultrasonic cleaner. A little and inexpensive one is enough for the purpose.
I have found the little brushes in the slider can just break no matter how careful I am, but in these cases I think it's time to replace anyway. I almost brought an ultrasonic cleaner from maplin while reduced.
Hey I've found out that lithium grease is better alternative to lubricate the pitchfader than deoxide... according to many expiriences of some audio service men; deoxide tends to weaken after some time; thus making the fader scratch and then damage the carbotracks after a while of use. Using a proper high quality industrial lithium grease is the better choice, and it's way cheaper!
do you have a example product I should look at ?
Is it possible to mail you mines
good vid, but that top plate sure needed some paint. . . .
Is IPA alcohol?
isopropyl alcohol 99% or rubbing alcohol
hey, pretty good job fella.. although i highly recommend you pack the fader with non conductive mechanical slip grease, just like it is when a Technics fader is new. Caig makes a silicone slip grease for this very application , the same company that makes your contact cleaner and the fader lube your using.. it will provide a nice resistance , a silky smooth travel, protection from moisture and will stay lubricated for 30 years. A fader with just fader lube will feel pretty rough and grainy and will progressively get worse with time. cheers store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.305/.f
thanks, i will get some on order. is there anyway to repair the carbon tracks ?
that stuff if a bit expensive in the uk at £44 for a tube.
any hi-temp silicone grease will do.. most of the food grade stuff is designed to work with plastic and metal and will be non conductive, here is Australia we have a product called Inox, cost me $10 dollars will do over a dozen faders and the base of main bearing with some to spare. Is yours feeling grainy and dry after just using fader lube ? if you decide to open it up again, just be really careful, the metal tags that you must bend open will only open and close 2 0r 3 times before breaking off, you may get a bit more with your vice method, seems to work well. good luck
yes, its possible.. any electronics store well sell carbon track repair, you can even get yourself out of trouble with a led pencil, your literally just filling the cracks with lead but its pretty temporary, i would use it to get me out of trouble until a replacement board arrives.
wont that affect the resistance of the pitch ? I have a few boards that damaged at the centre click point so they would be good to have as test units.
After having done this a few times now I have a few things to add. First is - do you really need to do this? If your pitch assembly or potentiometer looks like what DJ Legion was cleaning up and/or you suspect the pitch is not being 'held' or is erratic as a result of the potentiometer (and not something else like the pitch circuitry) - I'd say yes. If you're just wanting to give your decks some TLC - I'd say do NOT do this.
The small tabs/pins shown at around 2:25 are not designed to be moved back and forth multiple times. They stress very easily and will break off, and when they do - you'll very likely be needing to buy new pitch potentiometers. Just ask me how I know. Basically, you have one maybe two chances to open these during their lifetime to give them a clean out. There needs to be a very good reason for you to need to open these.
If you are going ahead with it - I found that holding them in your hands and using a pair of side cutters are a lot more precise for getting underneath the tabs and twisting them upward - obviously don't squeeze too hard or you're gonna cut the pins clean off! For flattening them back down afterward, leaving the metal plate on that DJ Legion is removing at around 0:29 and using a pair of long and thin pliers to close the pins up will give you a lot more precision, and the metal plate will protect you from squishing the entire casing. Be careful though. Never use too much pressure.
From factory, based on some replacements I ordered, the carbon tracks inside are NOT lubricated at all - where most if not all the 'smooth' and 'resistant' feeling of the fader comes from is a very thick grease used on the underside of the metal casing where the slider makes contact with the metal (the 'slider side' that DJ Legion is cleaning out at around 3:39 and not so much the side walls.) I haven't found the right grease to use here, but I suspect it is 'heavy synthetic damping grease' - from what I have read, Nye 767A or PG-44A MIGHT be the right type to use - but don't quote me on that (and do let me know how you go if you get some.) It's supposed to be non-dripping and barely viscous - almost glue-like in consistency. I got to a point where I replaced mine completely before I go to try this myself.
Based on the above, I would NOT recommend to use faderlube on the carbon tracks or anywhere else for that matter. It's quite runny, and I don't know whether it could do any damage long term (probably not, but I don't think much is gained for using it either - happy to be contested about this) I'd just wipe them down to clean off any residue - maybe use some deoxit if absolutely necessary, add the grease to the metal casing shown around 3:39 - and put it all back together.
If you do end up buying replacements - beware that it's not just the click vs non-click that you should be looking out for. For example, if you have MK2s you should use replacement part SFDZ122N11-1, MK3D and MK5 should be SFDZ122N11-3. This matters! If you buy SFDZ122N11-4 for your MK3Ds or MK5's for example, you'll quickly learn that the resistance range is different and your slider range wont ever be enough to get -8% and +8% - google the service manuals for your exact model to get the right slider!
My decks are from around 1998 and the carbon tracks inside were showing barely any signs of wear and tear. YMMV, but these pots are pretty high quality 'alps' brand and are meant to last a long time - cleaning them out like this should be a last ditch effort with a partial expectation that if you break those pins - you're very likely going to need to buy replacements. Beware!
Finally - I am not a repairman, I do not claim to be an expert in repairing 1200s - I'm just sharing with you my experiences when servicing my own.
I would agree that this is not something you should be doing just because you feel like it. If see spots on the pitch that make the platter jump or spin funny I will blow with air first, and only do this as a last option to try to save it. Many times the carbon is just damaged, but some times it can help.
@@DJlegionuk I’m still on the fence about whether faderlube on the carbon tracks would extend the life of them - I used the same as what you have there except mine was in spray form. I can’t help but wonder if it caused erratic pitch behaviour that got me to open them a second time and resultantly broke the pins… for now I am okay with there being none at all. Cheers
I’m glad you posted this because I feel I have an issue with some Technics 1200s I bought back in March this year.
I’ve had the pitch faders calibrated and the guy said the faders felt practically brand new considering they were made back in 1999. My only issue is they feel very stiff, which makes pitch riding really difficult and hence I find it hard to pull off more precise mixes.
I was thinking about spraying some Deoxit Faderlube in there but that sounds like the worse thing I could do now. I just want a smoother set of faders that glide up and down with ease
@@Libertycapuk yeah it’s hard to know what to say when your faders feel too stiff! Most of the grease on the factory faders are on the underside of the metal casing. Maybe you are right about a bit of faderlube to soften the existing grease there, but you’d need to do some clever ‘fader gymnastics’ for lack of any better description to get the product on the underside there! Whether that will soften things up though, I am not sure…
Technics service manual.. Pitch gain, 2,7 kOhm + - 0,5
i know, but it does not always work and needs to be 2.9 to get the centre correct and +6% I have tried many times
@@DJlegionuk it seems so. I'm trying this now on my pair. I'm trying to get +6 dots still and on one it works with 2.9kOhm and then I set VR301 to 262.08 with frequency counter. On the other one I need around 3.1kOhm to get +6 still. The first one is 1981 and second is 2000 year of manufacture. It seems like it depends on AN6682 IC characteristics. So service manual 2.7kOhm +- is to be taken with a grain of salt. I always adjust VR301 back to 262.08 after calibrating the VR302 on fader. Seems the trick is to align the +6 dots and then -3.3 and +3.3 fall in around 10%. The important thing is to rely on the dots only.
@@deniskrajnc7384 yep I just use the dots and make sure the centre point is correct and then adjust for 6% sometimes it's 2.7k, others it's 2.9k
Why 2.9K ? The right value is not 2.7k ? Thank You
2,90 kOhm? I put them to 2,75 Kohm
I have found it can be 2.9 or 2.7 and not sure why.
I read that 2,7 its for old models ( 1200 MK2) and 2,9 for the new models MK3 etc...@@DJlegionuk
Nadie que haga el vídeo en español??😫
Technical manual say 2.70 ohm..........
creepy music!
lol whats with the scary music?
Can I have this without the noise in the background? It's driving me nuts!!! Great video otherwise!
For god's sake, use nitrile gloves!
WTF with the music