Suggestion: I would definitely recommend mounting the combustion air inlet outside. This will prevent a vacuum from forming inside of your conditioned space drawing in cold air from outside.
*This guy is a phenomenal teacher on CZcams* Too bad our universities don't have wonderful teachers like this, then maybe more students would be able to pay attention😉 He seriously helps people save a lot of money by showing his videos with all of his knowledge and great walk through videos so thank you so much for doing this
GRE…Sweeping generalizations like this are a slippery downhill slope. As with any educational institution there are effective teachers and some others that are not so much. Of my exposure to around 50 educators while in college, I remember at least 10 that were very good. Let us not condemn the many for the shortcomings of the few…or the other many. Brian is a good’n for sure.
They’ve been systematically replaced by the fast more significant and community enriching gender studies classes full of sweeping generalizations to overcome moronic characterization of anyone who questions their falsehoods. Christ is in our midst.
You could always mount a 12 V fuel pump somewhere in the vicinity and use that to transfer fuel from one can to the other. I wish you were my neighbor I’d pay you to hook up two of them at my place👍😊
2nd year myself with a CDH. I also had an issue with the first one shipped. The seller made it right and no issues since. Wonderful heat source. Have no used this year yet. We have been unseasonably warm here in central Virginia. Thank you for sharing this with us. Stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Great use for the little heater one change I would recommend is putting the return air for hot air circulation down around the floor, "COLD AIR RETURN" cold is always down by the floor it wit increase the system efficiency.
Nice one (as usual) Brian. But, nevertheless, this setup really needs a Carbon monoxide detector in the shed since if god forbid, there is a leak ..... Regards, Eldad
Look at how far away from the tractor's cab a Webasto is exhausted... Seeing it just coming or the siding startled me! RVs get away with that.side exit exhaust in PROPANE exhaust Diesel is WAY different
@@DeanJuvenal tractor trailers run these diesel heaters under the bunks, to keep the drivers warm at night without running the trucks engine. The exhaust pipe runs a good distance away from the cab, so the no fumes can come back and kill the driver in his sleep
Nice Brian, thank you for the info. Since heat rises, I might try ducting intake and heat duct at floor level to have more efficient, even temps throughout the space.
Home Depot sells these booster fans which I have in the middle of my stretch of tubing to increase the flow and keep air moving for less strain on the fan of the heater
This is the first video I watched and I'm hooked, the mechanical side of troubleshooting and figuring out a solution to a problem just made me happy for some reason. Thank you for this. 😁
Brian you are definitely the master or re-engineering! It's way beyond my skill level. I could definitely see me burning my garage down! Thanks for another great video!
Bought one on vevor had no issues right out of the box, ran a 3'' pipe through the wall, inserted the exhaust pipe through the 3'' pipe and placed ceramic insulation between the 2 pipes, no risk to cause a fire in the wall. I placed some of the ceramic insulation everywhere the exhaust pipe runs underneath the unit (bought the ceramic insulation on amazon) I also noticed the fuel line was running close to the outlet I placed some ceramic insulation between the outlet and the line. Had no fuel leaks and the reservoir is plenty big for my need. I didn't have to take anything apart, shop is very warm, this heater for the price is awesome. I have it hooked up on a 12V battery which runs off a 150 Watts solar panel.
Tito, can I make a suggestion? Would move the pump closer to the fuel tank? Those pumps do better pushing than pulling, a specialty at the run you have. Then run a hard line 4mm OD x 2mm ID up to the heater. Buy a chain saw fuel filter, place it at the end of the line, and drop it to the bottom of the tank. The one you're using is not so good for these heaters. Then on the tank, do you have a breather hole? If not, put it on top of the tank. Many E-8 codes are coming up because the tanks are not equalizing and have a form of vapor/vacuum locking. Rubbing on the case is most likely it jarred out of its position during shipping easy fix, but not always the issue, 90% of the time, it just got jarred. These all in one are okay, but a big pain in the butt for the most part. People just buy the whole kit and then you can make any mods they need. Hope this helps you and the other out there?
Great suggestions. Thanks. I know it's a long fuel run but I wanted it mounted high. It does take a long time to prime which is why I don't move the tank. I also have a valve near the tank to keep it from draining if I do disconnect it. So far it always fires up on the first time and runs for hours and hours.
I’m thinking of installing one on the ROOF of my van. Yes the roof. There is space under my rear solar panel, next to the Maxx airfan. The biggest benefit would be to avoid snow buildup near the air exhaust and intake because it’s so much higher up, and my solar panel would protect it from snow.
@@RVwithTito return air? Is that the fresh air supply ? I think it’s more efficient to supply it from the inside. The cars AC also works better using inside air.
As with all of your videos I start watching and I find that I'm quickly draw in, this was a very interesting one, I live in Ottawa Canada and my garage now will be warm thanks to you!
Nice job, it took me years to install a furnace in my garage in Wisconsin, two year later I moved. What surprised me about your install is the ability of the little pump to overcome the few feet height difference to the fuel tank.
I have large barrel drums and just switch around the drum with no messing about and fill up 3 at a time the cap with the pipe in it makes quick switch over.
I really appreciate a tidy, well thought out revision ! Coupled that, with extra assurances. (That spray). But I’m sure somebody online here will come off like a know it all and shoot something down. Enjoyed this - thanks for all your efforts and shared info 😎
I enjoyed the video, thanks. The thermal camera is great and something I would use when testing van insulation, if I do try building out a van for camping and travel.
This is a a great episode Brian. Tips, tricks and mods are always welcome. I have one for my garage and one for my cargo trailer conversion. This is a thumbs up from me! Thanks for saving my Sunday coffee hour.
I did a lot of video watching before i bought my first Diesel heater and opted to buy the one that has an aluminum case. Never had a problem with the fan rubbing.
I've been thinking of putting 2 of those in my shop to keep it a little warmer. Good to see it's working for you, and I think recylcing the heated air is genius. I've got a 40 gallon semi fuel tank that will be perfect for mine, since I have a 100 gallon diesel tank in the bed of my pickup to refill it. I will continue to use my Torpedo Heater to warm the shop up at the start of the day, and use these to maintain a comfortable temp in it.
That's a good approach to use the other heater to pre-heat. About the recycled heat, I think that makes a difference too to up the temp a bit. Thanks for the comment. Stay warm!
Good video, because where mine is mounted in the shop(trailer) with drilling, sanding and sawing, the intake at the back of the heater sucks in sawdust and gives a burning smell. I fashioned a, air intake with a shop vac filter and flex tubing, keeps the sawdust out and works fine.
If you add a quarter inch siphon line or connect all those tanks at the bottom with a quarter inch line you could have 10 or 15 gallons of storage there and it will equalize automatically if you put that line in the bottom of each tank through the bottom of the sidewall! If you don’t wanna go through that you could take that quarter inch line and go in the top of each tank and begin a siphon usually I put the lime in a very tight hole and then seal it in and then once you have the cans set side-by-side you just squeeze the fuller can and it will go through they’re starting the siphon and then as long as the fuel never gets below you never get air in that little siphon line you can maintain that level in each and every can and you could put five cans wouldn’t make a difference just thought of an easier way for more storage ! Good video very nice install
GRT VIDEO! I also love Rethinking, Restoring, Repurposing anything and everything, Including some wasteful minds during hArdTimes! Thanks Again ... 💔🇺🇸 Needs a little✌️
That's some "Using your noggin" stuff there. Great job Brian. Maybe v.2 would be to put some kind of split duct on the end there to direct the heat to two area's. Awesome job again and presentation..Tony
Very innovative. Agree with other comment about carbon monoxide and smoke detector but I am betting you already thought of that. Wish I had a tenth of your talent. Enjoy all your videos. Well done!
Hi Brian, nice set-up. May I suggest a vent on your fuel tank to prevent forming a vacuum. Secondly your fuel pump is way too high, those pumps are made to push not suck, if you notice the fuel filter is full of air causing the pump to seize from lack of lubrication.
Wish I'd gotten your Quartzite notice a bit earlier. I would have liked to visit that event and also meet you. Thank you for the thorough review here. High regards!
Outstanding and informative video! I liked your little pump panel. Seems another blue 5gal container would prevent you from even having to transfer fuel--just replace the container.
Hay Brian, Very nice install on Your Chinese Diesel Heater!.I have been using one in my shop for a few years now and really like it. It does require a little bit of maintenance from time to time but overall not a bad way to go for heat. I have had to replace the bearings in the blower motor which is pretty easy to do and very inexpensive. I have upgraded the control panel with an After Burner Controller what you can find online and it just gives you better options for control. I like it so well I am installing one in my RV this winter. It's a very nice source of dry heat. The larger fuel tank is definitely the way to go! Keep up the great work and enjoy your warm shop.🙏🏻👍
I don't see why people try to insulate the exhaust inside the building before it exits? Why not try to capture more of the heat off the exhaust before it goes out? Even make it longer to get most of the heat off the tube and cool it down before it goes thru the wall making it safer there too! Makes sense to me.
Super cool setup, but for me (I live in the same climate in Vancouver, BC) I usually just live with the cold for a project that's only a few hours, or if it's a multi-day project, I will drag 2 x1500W oil heaters into the shop and it takes it up to 60 degrees in about 2 hours. My shop is 12' x 35'
That’s a nice setup and well thought out! I have a 12X24’ barn style out building and I did a very similar build but didn’t separate the components and it’s been going strong since 2019. I insulated my building to the max as we often have temperatures in the teens here and I can achieve 60* when it’s that cold. I chose to bring my intake air from outside as per code here. I also used a 110 to 12V inverter with a 12V battery backup because if the power goes out, and it does here a lot, the heater can’t go into a hot shutdown which could easily cause a fire or at the very least cook the circuit board which is in the heater case. I couldn’t tell if yours had battery backup or not? At any rate nice job explaining how you went about building yours.
Always enjoy your videos! I was surprised you got much air flow from the little fan with the length of your ducting! I've thought about buying one for my shop, but in Ca. It's usually pretty mild so I've held off. Cheers, Rich
I would also suggest removing the insulation from the exhaust pipe because any of that heat that can escape into your house why would you not want that? Just a suggestion
Nice setup. I can't figure out why you installed the hot air outlet high up? Hot air raises and stays up. This is why all heating systems push air from the floor or the lower walls. You must have cold feet... Minor modification. A good video. Thanks
Well done video! I am quite surprised your pump has survived an entire heating season however with so much required fuel lift , Eberspacher specifies these pumps for about 3 ft. of vertical lift using 2-3mm ID rigid nylon fuel line. that appears to be maybe 5-6 feet of lift through a large bore fuel line, or about 450% of it's rated lift capability. Best of luck, hope it holds up for you. I'm guessing you would see notable efficiency improvements if you lift your fuel can 3 foot closer to the pump (decreasing the fuel line length appropriately) and replaced the fuel line from the pump to the heater with rigid nylon 2mm fuel line. Your burn chamber would likely stay cleaner also, due to the improved atomization of the fuel.
Because the exhaust does get very hot would extend the terminal part of the exhaust further away from the wood work at lease 150 mm and terminal guard over it to stop vermin blocking it a larger steel pipe over the top sleving it it air gap beween
Very cool setup Brian a friend of mine is thinking of doing the same in Prince George he was getting down to - 38 during the winter and could not work in the shop I’m going to send him the link so he can get some ideas thanks 😊
You might think about getting an inexpensive carbon monoxide detector for that corner of your shop just to be on the safe side. I got a 2 pack for about 25 bucks on Amazon for my garage/workshop. I have a better quality device for inside my house but these inexpensive ones work just fine for the shop.
@@RVwithTito He’s talking rubbish. There is no problem with fuel pulsing - they even sell diaphragm-based fittings to reduce any potential pulsing - go figure! The heaters would be fitted, by the manufacturer, with one if it was needed.
Thanks for the ideas. If you have both a diesel and gas heater do you think these types of heaters could also run on propane. I pulled the propane furnace out of my travel trailer to accommodate two 300Ah LiFePo4 batteries. The furnace seized the main bearing years ago and I never used it much anyway. Now I'm looking for a replacement heater/furnace. Since I have two 30lb tanks of propane on the front I'd like to just tap into the line and power it with propane. Maybe even duct the heat directly into the existing heat ducts which run the full length of the trailer. This would also keep the batteries happy as they are sitting on some plywood over the duct hole the furnace used I want to mount it outside also to cut down on the noise but draw inside air into it to take cold air off the floor and make it more efficient. I could just get a large fuel tank say 20 gals and mount behind the propane tanks where the old golf cart batteries sat, but what I'm thinking is that propane burns so much cleaner then gas or diesel especially at altitudes, that it would be a better solution. Do you or anyone know of a propane heater that functions like these diesel/gas units in the 8kw range? My trailer is 27 ft. long. Thanks
So this unit could be modified by extending the exhaust outside and putting the unit inside a camper but still be a good idea to have a carbon monoxide monitor near by😊
My understanding is that standard home heating oil is the same as vehicular diesel except for the color and price. A dye is added to home heating oil so users can prove that “gas” tax is paid.
My shop is on a hillside and that wall is partially underground. In order to get the exhaust out the bottom of the unit, it had to be up high. Plus I didn't want to take up valuable floor space along the wall. Hope that helps.
@@RVwithTito They are not rocket science. I use the supplied plastic tubing with a couple of 10mm nuts threaded over the end (to keep the inlet close to the bottom of the fuel can). Simplicity, costing virtually nothing!😊
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. czcams.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
The shop portion is roughly the same 12x30 but it is part of a larger space too. So it takes a while to warm up. The temp inside depends on the outside temp. You should be good if your area is fully enclosed. When it's 50F outside I can get it to about 68, but when it's in the 30s outside then 62 is about the max for me. Hope that's helpful.
I see you’re busy tinkering again. I was thinking about using a Dickerson propane heater for the basement, but when I tried to get somebody to install it, nobody would? I have another idea that might surprise you, but I don’t want to speak of it here. If there’s a way to contact you to see if you’re interested or if you think it can be done. The nice thing is we both live in Washington state.🖖
@@RVwithTito Nice, we aren't crowd people so I will miss you at the big tent 😢 I will catch up with you guys when you might be camping at saddle mountain area 😉 . Take care and have fun .
Don't pay road tax on the fuel you use for the heater....you'll save enough to buy a Tall Mocha? Have you considered installing a solar system on your home and collect on the rebates that are offered? With you knowledge of all things solar, I am guessing you would find a cost effective way to do so.
Nice setup. Although your shop is quite large, your combustion air really needs to come from outside. I’m thinking of doing the same….any insurance implications with the permanent installation?
@@sleddogsam Maybe where you live ? I've watched hundreds and hundreds of videos of these heaters and pellet heater installations and never once heard anyone say that the air intake code demands that combustion air comes from outside. Would like to see your link to your Code ?
@@regwatson2017 even if it isnt code that combustion air needs to come from outside, it is still the better option. As it is set up now, combustion air is taken from inside the shop...burned with fuel and exits outside the shop...that air going outside needs to be replaced to equal pressure inside...so it ends up coming thru drafts, whether garage doors, windows etc..any where that frigid air can leak thru. Not to mention using outside air is beneficial because cold air is denser, will burn hotter and more thorough. Code or not, most heat and bang for ur buck, u burn outside air.
@@chrisalbrecht501 I never said you couldn't use outside air and agree that is ideally desirable however I would speculate that most people do not bother piping air from outside a home with these heaters. Installing inside a vehicle - maybe more likely as they are potentially more airtight. The amount of air being dragged into a home by a small heater such as these is negligible and not worth worrying about unless you are an absolute purist. In addition using inside air you are also warming "already warmed" air which compensates for any small amounts of cold air sucked in from outside. I also run a wood pellet heater and that sucks far more air in than these heaters but yet I feel no discernible draughts in the room despite not piping air directly from outside. What I really took issue with was that the other commenter said that the air "has" to come from outside and that it was code to do so. I note I am still waiting for a link to his "code"...!
![Cheapest Way To Heat a Garage in Winter [Red Diesel] VEVOR Diesel Heater Review For Workshop or Van](/img/n.gif)
Suggestion: I would definitely recommend mounting the combustion air inlet outside. This will prevent a vacuum from forming inside of your conditioned space drawing in cold air from outside.
I would consider lowering the fuel pump ( pumps push easier than they pull ). Also unwrap most of the exhaust pipe to reclaim wast heat. Mike
*This guy is a phenomenal teacher on CZcams*
Too bad our universities don't have wonderful teachers like this, then maybe more students would be able to pay attention😉
He seriously helps people save a lot of money by showing his videos with all of his knowledge and great walk through videos so thank you so much for doing this
You're welcome. And THANKS 😊 for the nice comment.
GRE…Sweeping generalizations like this are a slippery downhill slope. As with any educational institution there are effective teachers and some others that are not so much. Of my exposure to around 50 educators while in college, I remember at least 10 that were very good. Let us not condemn the many for the shortcomings of the few…or the other many. Brian is a good’n for sure.
They’ve been systematically replaced by the fast more significant and community enriching gender studies classes full of sweeping generalizations to overcome moronic characterization of anyone who questions their falsehoods.
Christ is in our midst.
You could always mount a 12 V fuel pump somewhere in the vicinity and use that to transfer fuel from one can to the other. I wish you were my neighbor I’d pay you to hook up two of them at my place👍😊
2nd year myself with a CDH. I also had an issue with the first one shipped. The seller made it right and no issues since. Wonderful heat source. Have no used this year yet. We have been unseasonably warm here in central Virginia. Thank you for sharing this with us. Stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Glad to hear it's working good for you.
Great use for the little heater one change I would recommend is putting the return air for hot air circulation down around the floor, "COLD AIR RETURN" cold is always down by the floor it wit increase the system efficiency.
Thanks for the tip. I'll probably be making changes here and there. That'll probably be one of them.
I used the cheap heater for 3 years now.... in my RV and never had any problems.... cheap and give a lot of heat I like it
Nice. It does blow hot.
Nice one (as usual) Brian. But, nevertheless, this setup really needs a Carbon monoxide detector in the shed since if god forbid, there is a leak ..... Regards, Eldad
Yeah. I do have a smoke detector but not carbon monoxide. I'll get one.
Look at how far away from the tractor's cab a Webasto is exhausted...
Seeing it just coming or the siding startled me!
RVs get away with that.side exit exhaust in PROPANE exhaust
Diesel is WAY different
@@LEOhopeful A valid point, though needs some detail to substantiate it, please.
@@DeanJuvenal tractor trailers run these diesel heaters under the bunks, to keep the drivers warm at night without running the trucks engine.
The exhaust pipe runs a good distance away from the cab, so the no fumes can come back and kill the driver in his sleep
Nice Brian, thank you for the info. Since heat rises, I might try ducting intake and heat duct at floor level to have more efficient, even temps throughout the space.
Home Depot sells these booster fans which I have in the middle of my stretch of tubing to increase the flow and keep air moving for less strain on the fan of the heater
Thanks. Yes. I am planning to do that at some point as I keep improving the setup.
@@RVwithTito A waste of time, money and effort - unless your ducting length is excessive.
My step dad in Idaho runs a Chinese 5k all winter in his 20x30 shop, not exactly a small space but it keeps it 60 all winter.
Great. Pretty similar to mine. Just takes longer to heat and will hold it with decent insulation.
This is the first video I watched and I'm hooked, the mechanical side of troubleshooting and figuring out a solution to a problem just made me happy for some reason. Thank you for this. 😁
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
The more that I watch, the more “Titofied” I get. Always thinking, Brian. Like it.
😃 👍
Great presentation right down to the repurposed bracket that you knew you would use for something….spot on, Sir!
Thanks! I knew that would come in handy someday :)
Brian you are definitely the master or re-engineering! It's way beyond my skill level. I could definitely see me burning my garage down! Thanks for another great video!
So nice of you. Yeah. No need to be burning anything down 😀
Bought one on vevor had no issues right out of the box, ran a 3'' pipe through the wall, inserted the exhaust pipe through the 3'' pipe and placed ceramic insulation between the 2 pipes, no risk to cause a fire in the wall. I placed some of the ceramic insulation everywhere the exhaust pipe runs underneath the unit (bought the ceramic insulation on amazon) I also noticed the fuel line was running close to the outlet I placed some ceramic insulation between the outlet and the line. Had no fuel leaks and the reservoir is plenty big for my need. I didn't have to take anything apart, shop is very warm, this heater for the price is awesome. I have it hooked up on a 12V battery which runs off a 150 Watts solar panel.
Nice job!
Tito, can I make a suggestion? Would move the pump closer to the fuel tank? Those pumps do better pushing than pulling, a specialty at the run you have. Then run a hard line 4mm OD x 2mm ID up to the heater. Buy a chain saw fuel filter, place it at the end of the line, and drop it to the bottom of the tank. The one you're using is not so good for these heaters. Then on the tank, do you have a breather hole? If not, put it on top of the tank. Many E-8 codes are coming up because the tanks are not equalizing and have a form of vapor/vacuum locking. Rubbing on the case is most likely it jarred out of its position during shipping easy fix, but not always the issue, 90% of the time, it just got jarred. These all in one are okay, but a big pain in the butt for the most part. People just buy the whole kit and then you can make any mods they need. Hope this helps you and the other out there?
Great suggestions. Thanks. I know it's a long fuel run but I wanted it mounted high. It does take a long time to prime which is why I don't move the tank. I also have a valve near the tank to keep it from draining if I do disconnect it. So far it always fires up on the first time and runs for hours and hours.
I’m thinking of installing one on the ROOF of my van. Yes the roof. There is space under my rear solar panel, next to the Maxx airfan. The biggest benefit would be to avoid snow buildup near the air exhaust and intake because it’s so much higher up, and my solar panel would protect it from snow.
That's interesting :) Are you bringing the return air from outside or inside?
@@RVwithTito return air? Is that the fresh air supply ? I think it’s more efficient to supply it from the inside. The cars AC also works better using inside air.
As with all of your videos I start watching and I find that I'm quickly draw in, this was a very interesting one, I live in Ottawa Canada and my garage now will be warm thanks to you!
Glad you got drawn in on this one. I thought it would be a useful project to share.
Nice job, it took me years to install a furnace in my garage in Wisconsin, two year later I moved. What surprised me about your install is the ability of the little pump to overcome the few feet height difference to the fuel tank.
It took a few starts to prime the fuel pump the first time. Since then it fires up and runs with no problems.
I have large barrel drums and just switch around the drum with no messing about and fill up 3 at a time the cap with the pipe in it makes quick switch over.
I’m running a 2k Chinese one in a full size dodge van for working remotely, seen -3 and still toasty warm 😊
Oh yeah. For a van it will keep it very toasty. I have one in my Class A motorhome too :)
Hello Brian! Your the man! I loved seeing you with a little dirt on your face like a lot of us who work out in the garage! Great idea again!😅
Thanks👍Yeah. I didn't notice until I reviewed the video clips :)
I really appreciate a tidy, well thought out revision ! Coupled that, with extra assurances. (That spray).
But I’m sure somebody online here will come off like a know it all and shoot something down.
Enjoyed this - thanks for all your efforts and shared info 😎
You're welcome. I'm pretty happy with it so far. No need to be freezing all the time :)
I enjoyed the video, thanks. The thermal camera is great and something I would use when testing van insulation, if I do try building out a van for camping and travel.
This is a a great episode Brian. Tips, tricks and mods are always welcome. I have one for my garage and one for my cargo trailer conversion. This is a thumbs up from me! Thanks for saving my Sunday coffee hour.
😃 You're welcome!
I did a lot of video watching before i bought my first Diesel heater and opted to buy the one that has an aluminum case. Never had a problem with the fan rubbing.
I've been thinking of putting 2 of those in my shop to keep it a little warmer. Good to see it's working for you, and I think recylcing the heated air is genius. I've got a 40 gallon semi fuel tank that will be perfect for mine, since I have a 100 gallon diesel tank in the bed of my pickup to refill it. I will continue to use my Torpedo Heater to warm the shop up at the start of the day, and use these to maintain a comfortable temp in it.
That's a good approach to use the other heater to pre-heat. About the recycled heat, I think that makes a difference too to up the temp a bit. Thanks for the comment. Stay warm!
Good video, because where mine is mounted in the shop(trailer) with drilling, sanding and sawing, the intake at the back of the heater sucks in sawdust and gives a burning smell. I fashioned a, air intake with a shop vac filter and flex tubing, keeps the sawdust out and works fine.
Good workaround!
If you add a quarter inch siphon line or connect all those tanks at the bottom with a quarter inch line you could have 10 or 15 gallons of storage there and it will equalize automatically if you put that line in the bottom of each tank through the bottom of the sidewall! If you don’t wanna go through that you could take that quarter inch line and go in the top of each tank and begin a siphon usually I put the lime in a very tight hole and then seal it in and then once you have the cans set side-by-side you just squeeze the fuller can and it will go through they’re starting the siphon and then as long as the fuel never gets below you never get air in that little siphon line you can maintain that level in each and every can and you could put five cans wouldn’t make a difference just thought of an easier way for more storage ! Good video very nice install
GRT VIDEO!
I also love
Rethinking,
Restoring,
Repurposing anything and everything,
Including some wasteful minds during hArdTimes!
Thanks Again ...
💔🇺🇸 Needs a little✌️
:) Thanks
That's some "Using your noggin" stuff there. Great job Brian. Maybe v.2 would be to put some kind of split duct on the end there to direct the heat to two area's. Awesome job again and presentation..Tony
I definitely want to do that at some point...just need to move my dust fan out of the way.
Very innovative. Agree with other comment about carbon monoxide and smoke detector but I am betting you already thought of that. Wish I had a tenth of your talent. Enjoy all your videos. Well done!
I have a smoke detector nearby but not carbon monoxide. Thought of it but didn't get one yet...just un the RV.
@@RVwithTito Colourless, odourless and tasteless. You are dead a long time. Get one -they are so cheap (only a couple of quid a year).
Hi Brian, nice set-up. May I suggest a vent on your fuel tank to prevent forming a vacuum. Secondly your fuel pump is way too high, those pumps are made to push not suck, if you notice the fuel filter is full of air causing the pump to seize from lack of lubrication.
Will keep an eye on it. So far so good.
Nice job Brian. Always coming up with work around projects. You remind me of a old neighbor friend of mine. Always tinkering with something.
Thanks Martin👍Yes. There's lots of tinkering going on. Now I can stay warm while I do it.
Wish I'd gotten your Quartzite notice a bit earlier. I would have liked to visit that event and also meet you. Thank you for the thorough review here. High regards!
It was a last minute thing. Maybe next time.
Outstanding and informative video! I liked your little pump panel. Seems another blue 5gal container would prevent you from even having to transfer fuel--just replace the container.
thats way more complicated than it should be . but you do amazing work
Yeah. Well I wanted a nice clean setup that was up and out of the way.
Hay Brian, Very nice install on Your Chinese Diesel Heater!.I have been using one in my shop for a few years now and really like it.
It does require a little bit of maintenance from time to time but overall not a bad way to go for heat. I have had to replace the bearings in the blower motor which is pretty easy to do and very inexpensive. I have upgraded the control panel with an After Burner Controller what you can find online and it just gives you better options for control. I like it so well I am installing one in my RV this winter. It's a very nice source of dry heat. The larger fuel tank is definitely the way to go! Keep up the great work and enjoy your warm shop.🙏🏻👍
I don't see why people try to insulate the exhaust inside the building before it exits? Why not try to capture more of the heat off the exhaust before it goes out? Even make it longer to get most of the heat off the tube and cool it down before it goes thru the wall making it safer there too! Makes sense to me.
Maybe you have made one, but a video on your shop setup would be great. Lot's of useful information on this one. Thank you!
I plan to add to it in the spring/summer and take it off grid. Maybe that would be a good time 👍
Would love to see that!
I like you as a human being and I enjoy the channel 😊
Super cool setup, but for me (I live in the same climate in Vancouver, BC) I usually just live with the cold for a project that's only a few hours, or if it's a multi-day project, I will drag 2 x1500W oil heaters into the shop and it takes it up to 60 degrees in about 2 hours. My shop is 12' x 35'
Thanks Ray. Yeah there are lots of ways to do it. Sometimes I hang moving blankets or rugs from the ceiling to make the area I'm heating smaller.
If you put a few good batteries in that system you could withstand an extended power outage and keep your tootsies from freezing.
Way ahead of you there. It's already connected to a bank of LFP batteries 😃
Awesome DIY heating system.
That’s a nice setup and well thought out! I have a 12X24’ barn style out building and I did a very similar build but didn’t separate the components and it’s been going strong since 2019. I insulated my building to the max as we often have temperatures in the teens here and I can achieve 60* when it’s that cold. I chose to bring my intake air from outside as per code here. I also used a 110 to 12V inverter with a 12V battery backup because if the power goes out, and it does here a lot, the heater can’t go into a hot shutdown which could easily cause a fire or at the very least cook the circuit board which is in the heater case. I couldn’t tell if yours had battery backup or not? At any rate nice job explaining how you went about building yours.
Thanks. It wouldn't take much to poke the intake hose outside. I may do that.
Another great job, MacGyver! 😁
Thanks! Didn't need to pull anything off my shoe to get this done though :)
I’m learning so much from your videos… Thank You for sharing your knowledge 😁
Always enjoy your videos! I was surprised you got much air flow from the little fan with the length of your ducting! I've thought about buying one for my shop, but in Ca. It's usually pretty mild so I've held off.
Cheers, Rich
Yes it does blow pretty good 👍
I would also suggest removing the insulation from the exhaust pipe because any of that heat that can escape into your house why would you not want that? Just a suggestion
Nice setup.
I can't figure out why you installed the hot air outlet high up?
Hot air raises and stays up. This is why all heating systems push air from the floor or the lower walls.
You must have cold feet...
Minor modification.
A good video. Thanks
I have a lot of other things in the way at the lower levels. Plus the exhaust outlet has to be below the heater.
Well done video! I am quite surprised your pump has survived an entire heating season however with so much required fuel lift , Eberspacher specifies these pumps for about 3 ft. of vertical lift using 2-3mm ID rigid nylon fuel line. that appears to be maybe 5-6 feet of lift through a large bore fuel line, or about 450% of it's rated lift capability. Best of luck, hope it holds up for you. I'm guessing you would see notable efficiency improvements if you lift your fuel can 3 foot closer to the pump (decreasing the fuel line length appropriately) and replaced the fuel line from the pump to the heater with rigid nylon 2mm fuel line. Your burn chamber would likely stay cleaner also, due to the improved atomization of the fuel.
Great Job Tito
Thanks.
Good info, I was wondering about these. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I have a propane furnace from an old Coleman popup trailer I was planning to use for my shop but after seeing this…I’m beginning to rethink that.
Give it a go!
Nice video all the best from the uk
I would unwrap the exhaust pipe and get a small fan blowing the heat from the pipe into the shop.
Yes. I've thought of that also to get more heat blowing around :)
Because the exhaust does get very hot would extend the terminal part of the exhaust further away from the wood work at lease 150 mm and terminal guard over it to stop vermin blocking it a larger steel pipe over the top sleving it it air gap beween
mine ran great right out of the box😊😊
well done!
Thanks. It's been getting a lot of use lately.
You are a very smart man!
😊 Depends who you ask
Hey Brian, how about extending the exhaust pipe and run it through a tank of water...instant hot water...
Now there's an idea 💡
Very cool setup Brian a friend of mine is thinking of doing the same in Prince George he was getting down to - 38 during the winter and could not work in the shop I’m going to send him the link so he can get some ideas thanks 😊
👍 Yeah it has made a big difference.
Woodstove
Put the outlet low close to the floor, much better heating.
You might think about getting an inexpensive carbon monoxide detector for that corner of your shop just to be on the safe side. I got a 2 pack for about 25 bucks on Amazon for my garage/workshop. I have a better quality device for inside my house but these inexpensive ones work just fine for the shop.
Good idea!
Ditch the crappy vinyl fuel line for some hard nylon type. It absorbs too much of the fuel pulse.
Hmmm. Good idea. 👍
@@RVwithTito He’s talking rubbish. There is no problem with fuel pulsing - they even sell diaphragm-based fittings to reduce any potential pulsing - go figure! The heaters would be fitted, by the manufacturer, with one if it was needed.
Some folk put the Exhaust through an old cast Radiator & get over a KW free heat
Great information. Thank you. New subscriber. Thanks - from Hells Canyon, Frank.
Great vid . Very good idea.
Thanks! It's been working great.
Thanks for the ideas. If you have both a diesel and gas heater do you think these types of heaters could also run on propane. I pulled the propane furnace out of my travel trailer to accommodate two 300Ah LiFePo4 batteries. The furnace seized the main bearing years ago and I never used it much anyway. Now I'm looking for a replacement heater/furnace. Since I have two 30lb tanks of propane on the front I'd like to just tap into the line and power it with propane. Maybe even duct the heat directly into the existing heat ducts which run the full length of the trailer. This would also keep the batteries happy as they are sitting on some plywood over the duct hole the furnace used I want to mount it outside also to cut down on the noise but draw inside air into it to take cold air off the floor and make it more efficient. I could just get a large fuel tank say 20 gals and mount behind the propane tanks where the old golf cart batteries sat, but what I'm thinking is that propane burns so much cleaner then gas or diesel especially at altitudes, that it would be a better solution. Do you or anyone know of a propane heater that functions like these diesel/gas units in the 8kw range? My trailer is 27 ft. long. Thanks
Good job
Thanks!
it sure seems that there should be a way to take advantage of that 480 degree exhaust also. hmmmm
Hadn't thought of it until now 🤔
SOME FOLKS ARE CAPTURING THE EXHAUST FOR HEAT ALSO
So this unit could be modified by extending the exhaust outside and putting the unit inside a camper but still be a good idea to have a carbon monoxide monitor near by😊
My understanding is that standard home heating oil is the same as vehicular diesel except for the color and price. A dye is added to home heating oil so users can prove that “gas” tax is paid.
Hmmm. Didn't know that.
I would have gone with a 2way mini split system so you get the advantage of cooling in the summer
Yeah that's an idea. It doesn't get too hot in the summer though.
@@RVwithTito makes sense then on your case
Brian - have you sent a link to your video to the "manufacturer" of the original device? They could learn a lot!
No Phil. I haven't. There are so many of these units crossing the sea.
Great video, thank you 🙂👍
just one question, maybe you answered this and I missed it - why did you mount it up high instead of on the floor?
My shop is on a hillside and that wall is partially underground. In order to get the exhaust out the bottom of the unit, it had to be up high. Plus I didn't want to take up valuable floor space along the wall. Hope that helps.
@@RVwithTito makes sense, ok
thank you
Were you worried about the “lift” capacity of the pump? It looks like your pump is a few feet below the heater.
Once primed it seems to fire up and run without a problem. Two winters now.
Do you think if you ran exuast through a sand thermo sink you would capture more heat?
Great video where can I buy the p/u tube for the fuel can?
Here it is on Amazon amzn.to/3kaBBuJ
@@RVwithTito They are not rocket science. I use the supplied plastic tubing with a couple of 10mm nuts threaded over the end (to keep the inlet close to the bottom of the fuel can). Simplicity, costing virtually nothing!😊
Good job.
Thanks!
Brian, could you include a link to the battery operated transfer pump that you used to move the fuel between the containers?
Here it is amzn.to/3kGXkKU
@@RVwithTito A bit slower, but lidl often do an electric pump for ten quid. Pumps a couple of litres per minute, I think.
Nice setup. Diesel fuel should be in a yellow tank to avoid confusion. Red is for gas. Not sure what blue can is for maybe kerosene
I often see blue used for water. As long as it it identified all is good.
Perhaps. I have DIESEL ONLY written on both though.
RED = Gasoline, YELLOW = Diesel, BLUE = H2O/Aqua/Water 😁 Thanks for sharing
Blue is kerosene white is water
@@hambone6310 I’m colour blind, so It does not bother me. Clear labelling is the order of the day!
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. czcams.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I went with a wood stove myself.
Hi. Curious dimensions of your shop and at what temperature you can achieve. I have a 12 x 20 and am thinking of doing something similar.
The shop portion is roughly the same 12x30 but it is part of a larger space too. So it takes a while to warm up. The temp inside depends on the outside temp. You should be good if your area is fully enclosed. When it's 50F outside I can get it to about 68, but when it's in the 30s outside then 62 is about the max for me. Hope that's helpful.
@@RVwithTito Thank You, i will definitely give it a try.
Do you possibly have a link for the battery operated fuel transfer pump?
There are links to everything in the video description.
I see you’re busy tinkering again. I was thinking about using a Dickerson propane heater for the basement, but when I tried to get somebody to install it, nobody would?
I have another idea that might surprise you, but I don’t want to speak of it here. If there’s a way to contact you to see if you’re interested or if you think it can be done. The nice thing is we both live in Washington state.🖖
You can email me.
I see nothing wrong with this other than this itself.
Power is so cheep in the Northwest why not just a regular heater, or was this just a something to do thing lol
I had extra heater parts and rally ended a forced air setup. Plus I'm going to take the whole shop off grid.
@@RVwithTito Nice, we aren't crowd people so I will miss you at the big tent 😢 I will catch up with you guys when you might be camping at saddle mountain area 😉 . Take care and have fun .
@@Yukonjackman1 We were in Saddle Mt last January for a few days.
Would the fuel supply can need some type of vent as the fuel gets sucked out of it be the heater pump?
I'll check that out. Thanks
Will it run on biodiesel?
Can you please? Send me the brand name of hetar. And where did you get it? Thank you very much.
There are so many Chinese knockoff units like this. Just search Amazon for diesel heater (amzn.to/3JCPHiV) and read the reviews.
Do you not have off road diesel? Is cheaper
Didn't know there was such a thing. I'll have to look around. Thanks.
are you insulated and what is the heating square foot... 720 degrees? Tito
can u link wher to get the fuel tap plz
Links are in the video description.
I looked did not c the tap will look again np thank for the reply
Where did you get the fuel pump you used to transfer from one tank to the other?
There's a link in the description
Don't pay road tax on the fuel you use for the heater....you'll save enough to buy a Tall Mocha?
Have you considered installing a solar system on your home and collect on the rebates that are offered? With you knowledge of all things solar, I am guessing you would find a cost effective way to do so.
I already have plans to solar power shop this year.
Not going to tell us how warm it makes the shop?
60 to 64 deg F in cold weather
Nice setup. Although your shop is quite large, your combustion air really needs to come from outside. I’m thinking of doing the same….any insurance implications with the permanent installation?
The combustion air doesn't have to come from outside.
Combustion air always comes from outside….it’s code for any combustion device that is installed inside a habited space.
@@sleddogsam Maybe where you live ? I've watched hundreds and hundreds of videos of these heaters and pellet heater installations and never once heard anyone say that the air intake code demands that combustion air comes from outside. Would like to see your link to your Code ?
@@regwatson2017 even if it isnt code that combustion air needs to come from outside, it is still the better option. As it is set up now, combustion air is taken from inside the shop...burned with fuel and exits outside the shop...that air going outside needs to be replaced to equal pressure inside...so it ends up coming thru drafts, whether garage doors, windows etc..any where that frigid air can leak thru. Not to mention using outside air is beneficial because cold air is denser, will burn hotter and more thorough. Code or not, most heat and bang for ur buck, u burn outside air.
@@chrisalbrecht501 I never said you couldn't use outside air and agree that is ideally desirable however I would speculate that most people do not bother piping air from outside a home with these heaters. Installing inside a vehicle - maybe more likely as they are potentially more airtight. The amount of air being dragged into a home by a small heater such as these is negligible and not worth worrying about unless you are an absolute purist. In addition using inside air you are also warming "already warmed" air which compensates for any small amounts of cold air sucked in from outside. I also run a wood pellet heater and that sucks far more air in than these heaters but yet I feel no discernible draughts in the room despite not piping air directly from outside.
What I really took issue with was that the other commenter said that the air "has" to come from outside and that it was code to do so. I note I am still waiting for a link to his "code"...!