Let's do a VALVE ADJUSTMENT on our RACE BIKE | 2008 CBR 600RR Race Build - Day 7
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- čas přidán 21. 12. 2020
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In this episode of Wrecked Bike Rebuild Garge, it's time to adjust the valves on the CBR 600rr race bike. Warning: ⚠️ This job is NOT for amatures! Don't worry, you'll see why.
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Always measure the existing shim and the replacement shim. The former can wear, and the latter can be machined wrong.
A friendly bit of information from someone who deals with measurements even more precise than that: measure the shims you take out, and do NOT trust the number on them. The shims can actually wear down and become thinner than what the number says, so when you go off measurements from that, you may come up with too big of a gap. Also, measure to double check the shims you are putting in. What if there is a burr or the shim was wrongly stamped?
Use a pair of calipers or micrometer and always verify everything; trust absolutely nothing. Also, always zero out your measuring tools before use...again trust nothing.
I was about to comment this, bit of an uh oh moment. Shims can easily wear down a couple hundredth of a millimetre, that 2.02 could easily be 2.00 and the etching could still be readable.
I will do that. When you depend on the service manual you tend to do only that which it specifies. I'm already getting that creeping feeling that I'm assuming too much. Thmks
Next time just use a metric feeler gauge (some have both imperial and metric) which makes life much easier, if you only have imperial measuring tools just use a calculator and multiply the number by 2.54 to get the metric equivalent.
Seriously... why did they mix the two? I'm pretty sure the one they had had both on it. That's Chase spends the whole episode confused af....
Americans are just exasperating like that. Just use metric, it's far more exact and understandable. I learnt the imperial system because it seems to be a standard working on guitars and in the old days engines. But it is ridiculous and far less translatable
I love how Chase is confused with the switch from standard to metric and the calculating the delta then the final shim size but Brian instinctively nails the required shim size to within 0.005 of a millimeter without even needing a calculator. That was impressive Sir!!!!!
Experience ftw lol
Excellent follow up video. Our overseas friends don't understand why you weren't just talking in metric terms!😊
Do a valve job on Brian's Aprilia Tuono v4😁
This really explains why valve adjustments are so expensive. Good job to both of you
What an awesome and very simplified way to make everything I consider myself pretty handy the digging down into these have been very intimidating. I don’t feel so intimidated
For us SAE guys here in the US. just remember that for every standard shim size (ie. 200-195) that your going .002in. smaller in clearance, or .002in. bigger if going from 195-200. With PRO X VALVE SHIM KITs you can get half sizes of shims as well, that would be .001in. smaller or bigger if your fine tuning. Nice Job Chase and Brian!
What you said right here explains way more than when they were saying the numbers , this right here tells you exactly how much to change if you're getting standard sizes , Based off of the shim kit proved and what you pulled out . Meaning that 202 factory shim he had that caused a 0.007in feeler guage gap and he need a 0.005in feeler gauge clearance,; that 202 factory was close to a 200 meaning he need to to 0.002in smaller so he needs a 195 shime to get the correct feeler guage spec ... 😂
Shim lol 😅
@@hulkcrshr2473 If the measured clearance was .007 and your shim size was 200 and you needed a .005 clearance you would go with a 205 shim to get the .005 clearance.
Thanks for posting these, I'm about to do this for the first time on one of my bikes. I appreciate how you don't act like you're the "I know everything" of motorcycles. Happy to see your channel grow over the years!
OC: another great vid! We all need a super knowledgeable friend like Brian! Always selecting for beats too. Can't wait to see the finished products!
Loving these videos. So informative and helpful to understand how the engines work. I think we need a new video on motorcycle gear and garage equipment including those sick gloves 🧤💪🏼
Now that I am a little older with a better paying job, I understand the value on not getting frustrated and stressed the hell out doing this on my own. I think I will let the technician spend the 4-6 hours working on adjusting valves on my bike. I have adjusted valves before, but never ones with shims and buckets. Messing up the timing would be my biggest fear in doing this job myself. That and the fact that the engine is still in the frame with significantly less room to work.
Im in the same boat sir
on my blade 2009 we had to release the front mounts and tilt the block forward to access the valves properly. that was fun....
Thank you for the long format episode.
I'm so glad you are doing this you are the man thanks I think this is all I'm getting this year so I appreciate you and brian and the cam crew
I know I'll have to do this job eventually and I'm commited to doing all my own work....but dear god it does not look fun 😂😂
Fantastic content. Watched the entire video. Absolutely love it. Very informative.
Thanks for this upload, really simplified the process
10:20 is where I got the most help. Good explanation and drawing.
OC: it’s deffo a solid 8 for the beard, we love you too had a mini heart attack when you got hacked, need my WBR fix
I now know for sure that I will never attempt to do this do for myself, however, it's interesting to see all the hard work that goes working on an engine.
It’s nice to see some appreciation in the comment section of what people like myself and Brian get up to on a daily basis working on multiple peoples bikes throughout the day. I’m no where near experience as Brian (5 years) but I hope people can see why main dealers charge as much as they do, especially for major work. Peace all ✌️
Surely, to help eliminate any incorrect measuring you would just do every single measurement in metric? That removes any confusion converting between imperial and metric. 🤷
not if you're NASA
Understanding this is a giveaway street use bike but since you guys are in there, with 40k on an engine and with it out of the bike I would personally inspect the valves, seats and pistons for any blow by or bad seals, almost seems crazy not to but you guys are great and are also doing a great service for others. Keep up the good work.
You can use white out to mark the position of the cam & chain. I do it all the time at work when we remove the cams on Audi’s
Can you explain a bit more in depth
@@SubrosaRose before taking the chain off or loosening it, Dan the white out on the chain where the tooth on the gear is showing. You’ll have a reference mark of where the chain and gear were
@@grayv3 I see thank you so much
Tons of great information!!!!
Gretings from poland. thanks for big knowleage !!
this is a great series
Nice info!
Congrats
Thank you for the very informative video 🤙
Thank you for this detailed video, much appreciated!!
I'm planning to do a valve job on my Suzuki GSX1250FA a.k.a. Bandit during winter, and by studying the manual and watching this vid, the procedure seems to be very similar, after all, they are both DOHC engines, except for the cam sprockets which in my case are situated in the exact middle of the engine, and therefore so is the tensioner, unbolting and removing it may be a hassle, but doable I believe.
Just one Q: will ambient room temperature have any effect on the measurements? The temps in my garage during winter are between 5 and 10 C (40 to 50 F)
Here I was thinking it was a matter of tightening or loosening a screw to adjust the valves. Holy shit! Very informative though. Thank you.
thank you the best video on youtube...
While some will find this not very interesting, I dig it. These, how to videos are fantastic and I love the way you composed them. That being said, I will still take my bike to get worked on at the dealer 😁😂🤣 cause Ducati!! Haha
Future Chase explanation really helps.
We can't score Brian's beard. It's a one of a kind.
I know most watching this will be used to using the imperial system of measuring. But so much easier to just do the whole thing in metric.
Its just addition and subtraction. IF the feeler gage is too lose, see how many thousands its lose. then measure existing shim. add the missing thousands to the size of the existing shim and bam, it will tell you what size shim you need.
The information I got from this is I'll let my dealer do my value adjustment haha. I don't mind doing the easy stuff (oil change, new exhaust, brake pads, etc) but this is way out of my comfort zone.
If I didn’t have Brian with me I’d be the same.
But do you trust the dealer will do a good job?
Your comment on the setting the valve clearance tighter to improve performance may b correct but for my fzr 750 the opposite is correct I set my clearances to the wide end of spec and as a result the engine performs better maybe I gives the piston more time to build up cyl pressure not sure if that’s true on all engines tho
The intermissions helped
Those green gloves 🧤 what are they. And thank you for simplifying 😊
The machinist in me is loving this lol 😂
So much easier...just measure all of your clearances write them down. Then measure all of your stock shims write them down keeping everything in order. Then most of the time you can swap them around until you just need to replace 3 or 4 simple math.
Why didnt you mark cams and chain with simple white marker before disassembly? Then it would be easier to assemble, no guessing which tooth goes where would be required. Or is there a reason not to do that?
This thumbnail is gold 🤣
OC before making it to the Outro saying what's up!
Michael Jackson Popcorn meme, but switch out the popcorn and add excedrin. Lol awesome educational content here.
on a scale of 1 to 10 Brains beard is a Viking
Always make sure you keep the parts together and don’t do what I did and mix it all up…. 😂 now have to measure everything and get it right
OC Oh, I remember doing this on aircraft engines, I’m surprised it’s a bigger pain in the ass on a bike.
Also Brian has a baby zz top beard.
Your average aircraft piston engine is designed for easy and routine maintenance and repair. This particular motorcycle engine is designed for maximum power delivery through high tech. So if something goes wrong in backwoods Wyoming, you aren't going to fix it with a bit of baling wire, a piece of metal and a twist-tie, so you can nurse it home.
The last episode already explained it pretty well imo.
One thing I don’t understand is if it’s wearing down the shim, why does it tighter? My understanding is wearing down=removing material which means=to get bigger gaps
I thought it was bad on my KLR. At least it was only a single cylinder.
Awesome video. THat dude knows his stuff. I have a 2011 cbr 1000rr and im fairly confident in turning wrenches but the valves I dont know enough to do. Bike has 20k miles. My question is I heard many so called bike technicians dont know squat about valves either, is there a trick I caan use to verify that a machanic actually opened up the valves and did the job? I hear that some will just saay everything is okay, charge you like 800 for doing nothing. Any tricks.
So sad you didn’t show him Turing the pulse rotor generator but looking at the chain so I know if you turn a full rotation does it line up the ex and ln I’m sure it doesn’t line up but I wanted to see
OC: Am thinking a 5 at the moment, could be a lot longer!
Could you start including average price for said jobs?
OC: Solid 7 (and a bonus point from me for skipping the Just For Men).
OK, is it possible to bend a valve when turning engine by hand, if the timing is off? I mean like I don't think one could generate enough momentum, to actually bend anything in an engine.
It's funny when you call Imperial units "standard" . Metric is used much wider. :D
Why do you have to set it to top dead center to remove the camshaft?
Just imagine doing that with the engine still in the bike!
Wish me luck, I'm going to do this on my bike,
yeah its a single cylinder but, its my first time doing valve clearance adjustment
Where is the link to the chim kit? Is for a 929 fireblade the same?
A 40+ min vid and a 30 min vid to confuse novice mechanics. Measure the clearance for each valve, write it down for each valve, measure with the engine in the correct position (always use a workshop/service manual).
Remove the cam caps correctly as stated in the manual, then measure the shims thickness and write those down next to the corresponding clearance measurement.
Then you check the chart in the service manual and it tells you what size shim to install for each pair of measurements.
If they are within spec no change is needed, you can also interchange old shims from one place to another if it puts another within spec, while that one is out of spec, can save money if needing to order in shims.
quite a bit easier if all your measurements are metric to start with :-)
the only thing i dont understand in this video is why y'all keep measuring stuff in standard if the shims are in metric, that kinda game once crashed a manmade sattelite into the surface of mars, keep it simple by measuring in metric, the feeler gauges have it printed on them even... then measure what size shim comes out, even if it's printed, i can be worn/deformed, calculate where you need to be and measure the new shim too, i've had shims be off by about 0,02mm. at those tight tolerances, temperature comes into play as well, if you feel like experimenting, take a known shim, a 175 for instance, measure at room temp, put it on a heater for half an hour, measure it hot, and then put it in the freezer for half an hour and measure it cold, you'd be suprised by the difference. measure twice, calculate twice, take the cams of once.
Guys, quick question, i have a haynes manual, and it says that even if the number is not worn of you still have to measure the shim in case it got worn off.. Is it true? Thank you.
I would normally recommend it due to wear, machining tolerances etc, as long you have a calibrated digital vernier caliper for example to measure them properly.
Quick Question, before removing the cams could you mark (white sharpie, paint pen etc.) the cam and the sprocket on the cam so you could reproduce it when reinstalling the cams?
There’s nothing wrong with doing that but the cam sprockets are normally very clearly marked to signify there position at TDC on 1.
If you’re concerned about not getting the timing right, a little trick I use but not fees-able on this bike is to cable tie the cam chain to the cam sprocket on both camshafts as BMW’s and Triumphs they normally have drilled holes on the camshaft gears. Obviously re check after reinstalling rocker covers but it makes life a whole lot easier, hope this helps.
@@gamekeeper687 Thanks, good idea with the cable tie. The paint pen idea was spurred on by Brian trying to find the correct tooth on the exhaust cam gear to mate up with the chain. If he marked it before removing it could be place back exactly in the same location. Thanks again.
That’s a great idea if available man!
It good job brian there as was chase i hate to see what would happen i love watching your channel im.from uk and if had money i offer brian a job in isle of Tt race team i work for
What diameter are the shims and are a 2010 Honda the same?
Pssssst chase. Ask him why he didn't check the crank
Brian's beard is a solid 6 on a scale from hipster being a 1, Kratos as a 5, and Gandolf a 10.
How much did you got that shim kit for?
Here in India its about $150, I think that's way too expensive, maybe coz its an imported product.
I don’t understand why they did all of their measurements in standard. Why not take all you’re measurements in metric when working on a metric bike? Life is easier in metric lol.
Agree 100%
Agreed. Either Brian is very used to standard and just couldn't help himself. Or the feeler gauges were in standard only. Unlikely but possible.
Feeler gauge had both on them.
Its called passes not a little tight for the torque sequence
After you understand how complicated do valve adjustment you start to thinking im fine just do oil and filter change and engine was sit down on the table immagine when its on your bike with all bunch hose in the way........
What’s the cost of getting this done?
THE NUMBERS MASON! WHAT DO THEY MEAN!?
How to find When do we need to do valve adjustment?
power loss and service manual if i remember right its need to be checked first time at 25000km
OC 10
15:03 or just get a metric micrometre and work in the units the manufacturer uses? hmm
Follow the manual
Or just use a digital micrometer that is standard and metric.
Easy just takes some basic math. I charge guys $500 all day long in my shop for valve adjustments and it only takes me an hour tops.
Why is there always suck a volume difference between the music and the actual footage. The music is super loud and the voices are so quiet. I have tried it on 3 different devices..
What, no CCT tool? Bush.
arnt u supposed to measure the gaps before you remove the cams? did i miss this. I cant see how you know what shim to use if you didnt measure the valve clearance before you removed the camshaft. Ok ,im watching the videos out of order..
OC: The beard is a 7 or .195 (something like that)
Hahahahaha
Kind of why I would let someone else do it, and be glad to pay them.
so hold up, I can do a valve adjustment in 33 minutes and 17 seconds? cool... lol
Only if you’re engine is out of your bike 😅
1st comm
what is Standard? If you live in a country where metric is the standard
SAE is what they're referring to
It’s referred to as Imperial here in the UK.
doesnt matter what system the country uses, what matters is what the manufacturer of the machine used to build it, Bell Helicopters and Pilatus Airplanes use standard, sae to build their machines. Also the United States Of America landed on the moon using SAE . LOL
Not hitting just helping
Is it my impression or the audio is fluctuating?
Not sure. Gunna be looking into this.
It doesnt matter what system the country uses, what matters is what the manufacturer of the machine used to build it, Bell Helicopters and Pilatus Airplanes use standard, sae to build their machines. I cant use metric tools. Also the United States Of America landed on the moon using SAE . LOL
Not about math it all about knowledge we do it all time on race bikes
Holy confusing, do yourself a favour and buy metric feeler gauges (most have both metric and standard stamped on them) and a metric micrometer when working on a metric bike. Forgot converting back and forth. Use a magnet to remove the buckets??? Why would you take the chance of magnitizing your buckets. It’s the last place you want metal particles to gather. Use a suction cup, like the kind you get with a toy gun.
This guy is a “professional”???
The real need here is to show getting the cams on and off without damaging them or the guides. I need more close up shots, real close. I want to see the cams laid out before torque with the sprocket on or the method off. This is what scares people, the fact that the cams are held up by springs, the first turn after its torqued. What about the crush washers? After I test arent those needing replacement? This video is weak while the cbr1000 is strong, don't loose it now. The intro was a very bad idea, you make people think youre dumb again. I dont subscribe to dumb people, it wasn't that complicated. The gap. We're not all like you, we're not all Brian, we're in between. Cater to the middle. Let Brian do side videos on his shim idea, let him go even higher into details. I want it, I can handle it, I'm now racing. You just hold the middle, show your growth, not constant comedy about perpetual ignorance. I subscribe to you and David Moss, so I'm with you as I build my 954rr part by part from Ebay, don't let me down. The service manual isn't animated, I need videos to ensure my builds success.
Hate to say, Brian... but 'constant comedy and perpetual ignorance' is what has gotten him to over a million subscribers, and way more views. You don't want to learn what you're talking about solely from CZcams videos. You're racing. So go hang with that crowd and their mechanics. If you need videos to ensure your build's success, and not a manual? Get out of the engine.
@@troyjollimore4100 not talking to you Troy, go back to sleep.
FWIW if you're racing then this should be merely nothing more than a vague guide. These specs and instructions are for street engines and depending how serious you get when you say "racing" your builds at minimum will consist of a whole new top end, cams, valves, pistons, heads etc. Also your PTV clearances will be tighter than a frogs ass on a heat soaked engine while using clay during the installation process and may require doing this procedure multiple times. If you plan on racing with an OEM engine then forget everything I just said lol. Brian and Chase are great people but I'm not sure these videos are going to get you where you want to be for race applications. I am by no means a master mechanic by trade, just twenty years of "back yard building" with the insight of some talented individuals who've taught me along the way so take this with a grain of salt. Best of luck on the Grid.
@@getoffmygrass6974 Sssshh! We need to 'go back to sleep'. The 'pro' there is busy 'racing'! ;)
@@troyjollimore4100 LOL, I'm a sucker for a good cat nap. Well, you're not wrong and all you can do is offer positive insight and hope those receiving it filter out the bad and take the good. If I had to guess, Brian means "Track Days" not AMA. The basics for race building applications certainly are out there on video but the goodies that get you that extra 1/2 second, where it counts is in the pits, where as unless you're on the team, you certainly aren't getting those tricks on YT. Obviously Brian is Green based on the questions he has asked but sounds like he wants to learn. Hopefully he gains the knowledge he needs and pays it forward in the future to next up and coming generation hoping to learn.