Great tools, I agree 100% on everything you said about those! You can also use the small round rod, on the Work Sharp field sharpener, that many people have, to sharpen serations. On the serations I've used it, it fit like a glove! I own a lot of these tools, they are essential for a professional. Ceramics, strop on fine Kangaroo leather and then on newspaper, is the fastest and easiest way, to finish an edge. That and a proper method of using them, can provide the scariest ege you've ever felt/used and in the same time, makes the edge more durable and more water resistant (mirror finish). Sharpening guideline: Medium:10* Fine:30* Hone:90* Strop:300* * = (passes per side) PS: I would advise people with not a lot of knowledge and experience, to use the leather as less as possible, because it's easy both to destroy the apex instead of polishing it and/or over convex it, to the point it has negative instead of positive effects.As a 2nd advice to young people, is to not copy what they see on CZcams as most CZcamsrs do, because most of the times, they copy wrong ways to do things, I mean completely wrong. That's because people nowdays, want it all NOW, the don't search where they should, they don't read as much as they should, they just want it all fast. Hope this helps, people that are now begin to learn how to sharpen an edge properly. You can establish your own methods, but there are also some rules, you can't ignore. Keep em Sharp!!!
Thanks so much for the sage advice. Yes when you get a good polish on an edge the results are scary sharp. My wife often asks me when I inevitably cut my self did it hurt and if it’s sharp enough nope not really lol. I’ve yet to find some kangaroo leather to make into strop, but I’m on the look out. I’m so happy you stopped by and left some advice cause it’s great advise. Take care and stay safe my friend.
@@TheBigCanucker I left it there mostly to help young people on the subject! Wounds heal faster and properly, if the wound was done from a really sharp edge! The sharper the better! I can only find Kangaroo leather, on premade good quality leather strops, on big knife shops. I couldn't find any, to make my own either, but that's the best leather for that job, oyu can tell from both it's looks and how it feels when you touch it! It's very different than common leather, and you can easily feel, the higher quality. It works better without compound for me. I would add compound, on common rough leathers though! You too sir, take care!
@@TheBigCanucker a belated happy birthday 🎈🎉 🎂 and thx this info helps yes! "close to mirror finish" isn't as fine as (a clogged) 204UF then. I'll check it out one day soon. today i bought 1000x6mm polished beechwood rod. I'll rub some polishing compound on it with oil. inexpensive alternative for stropping, google 😎🙌
@@leecherlarry That Ruby rod looks like it will do a nice job….I like the idea it retracts and is safe plus in the event it gets dropped and cracks it’s not that expensive to replace. Thanks for the info take care.
To reach mirror finish the grit must be 3000 grit and higher. The way you have advanced from low or medium grit to fine, is a factor too. Always, double and the triple and more as you advance on finer grits. Fine kangroo leather on good quality fine strops, can help reach mirror finsih, without the need of compound on it. This is the proper sharpening method, on how many passes we should do on each grit. Of course less will still provide a sharp edge, especially when the steel isn't superhard, however, this is a good guide, for non professionals, to understand how things work: Medium:10 passes (per side) Fine:30 passes (per side) Hone:90 passes (per side) Strop:300 passes (per side). The edge that is produced, if done this way, is the finest, the most rust resistant. That finsih also provides more edge stability, because of the uniform mirrored finish steel and the slight convexing the strop automatically provides. You just have to be careful, not to use the strop all the time to keep an edge sharp, because it can lead to over convexing an apex,in no time! That's bad and the edge bevel, has to be reprofiled to be fixed. Keep em sharp and stay safe!
@@greekveteran2715 Thanks for the great info!! There's more discussion (bumped threads) on bladeforums, or i mean you could post your experience over there. Anyway, gotta run, time to mow the lawn, yikes!
Great tools, I agree 100% on everything you said about those! You can also use the small round rod, on the Work Sharp field sharpener, that many people have, to sharpen serations. On the serations I've used it, it fit like a glove! I own a lot of these tools, they are essential for a professional. Ceramics, strop on fine Kangaroo leather and then on newspaper, is the fastest and easiest way, to finish an edge. That and a proper method of using them, can provide the scariest ege you've ever felt/used and in the same time, makes the edge more durable and more water resistant (mirror finish).
Sharpening guideline: Medium:10* Fine:30* Hone:90* Strop:300*
* = (passes per side)
PS: I would advise people with not a lot of knowledge and experience, to use the leather as less as possible, because it's easy both to destroy the apex instead of polishing it and/or over convex it, to the point it has negative instead of positive effects.As a 2nd advice to young people, is to not copy what they see on CZcams as most CZcamsrs do, because most of the times, they copy wrong ways to do things, I mean completely wrong. That's because people nowdays, want it all NOW, the don't search where they should, they don't read as much as they should, they just want it all fast. Hope this helps, people that are now begin to learn how to sharpen an edge properly. You can establish your own methods, but there are also some rules, you can't ignore. Keep em Sharp!!!
Thanks so much for the sage advice. Yes when you get a good polish on an edge the results are scary sharp. My wife often asks me when I inevitably cut my self did it hurt and if it’s sharp enough nope not really lol. I’ve yet to find some kangaroo leather to make into strop, but I’m on the look out. I’m so happy you stopped by and left some advice cause it’s great advise. Take care and stay safe my friend.
@@TheBigCanucker I left it there mostly to help young people on the subject! Wounds heal faster and properly, if the wound was done from a really sharp edge! The sharper the better!
I can only find Kangaroo leather, on premade good quality leather strops, on big knife shops. I couldn't find any, to make my own either, but that's the best leather for that job, oyu can tell from both it's looks and how it feels when you touch it! It's very different than common leather, and you can easily feel, the higher quality. It works better without compound for me. I would add compound, on common rough leathers though! You too sir, take care!
Randy Johnson is the hall of fame ex diamond back pitcher
Lol He’s also a knife guy I watched for years.
can you reach mirror polish with the round file? with 204F one cannot. with 204UF one can.
You can get close to a mirror polish…I would say the file set is the same material as the 204 F. I hope this helps take care and stay safe.
@@TheBigCanucker a belated happy birthday 🎈🎉 🎂 and thx this info helps yes! "close to mirror finish" isn't as fine as (a clogged) 204UF then. I'll check it out one day soon. today i bought 1000x6mm polished beechwood rod. I'll rub some polishing compound on it with oil. inexpensive alternative for stropping, google 😎🙌
@@leecherlarry That Ruby rod looks like it will do a nice job….I like the idea it retracts and is safe plus in the event it gets dropped and cracks it’s not that expensive to replace. Thanks for the info take care.
To reach mirror finish the grit must be 3000 grit and higher. The way you have advanced from low or medium grit to fine, is a factor too. Always, double and the triple and more as you advance on finer grits. Fine kangroo leather on good quality fine strops, can help reach mirror finsih, without the need of compound on it. This is the proper sharpening method, on how many passes we should do on each grit. Of course less will still provide a sharp edge, especially when the steel isn't superhard, however, this is a good guide, for non professionals, to understand how things work: Medium:10 passes (per side) Fine:30 passes (per side) Hone:90 passes (per side) Strop:300 passes (per side).
The edge that is produced, if done this way, is the finest, the most rust resistant. That finsih also provides more edge stability, because of the uniform mirrored finish steel and the slight convexing the strop automatically provides. You just have to be careful, not to use the strop all the time to keep an edge sharp, because it can lead to over convexing an apex,in no time! That's bad and the edge bevel, has to be reprofiled to be fixed. Keep em sharp and stay safe!
@@greekveteran2715 Thanks for the great info!! There's more discussion (bumped threads) on bladeforums, or i mean you could post your experience over there. Anyway, gotta run, time to mow the lawn, yikes!