Honda/Acura Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Replacement
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- čas přidán 11. 10. 2018
- This trailing arm bushing repair will apply to:
Honda Civics 1989-2000
Honda CRV 1997-2001
Acura Integra 1990-2001
It is very common for the trailing arm bushings on older Honda Civics and Acura Integras to degrade and break.
Honda wants to sell you the entire control arm, but with the tool in this video, a new set of aftermarket bushings, and this video, you can fix up your rear suspension in no time.
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The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarguy.com
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Thanks for watching!
The Parts I used
Rear trailing arm bushings: www.amazon.com/APDTY-Trailing...
Rear Compensating arm (the one I burned the bushing on): www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...
Solid Bushings: www.summitracing.com/parts/wh...
Tools
Bushing Tool: www.jbtoolsales.com/schley-pr...
Ingersoll Rand 3/8" Impact: www.jbtoolsales.com/ingersoll...
Milwaukee 1/2” Impact: www.milwaukeetool.com/Product...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
FYI, if you want to install a genuine Honda bushing, you can buy just the bushing but Honda does not make it easy to find. The Honda part number for 1988-2000 Civics is 52385-SR3-000 (1997-2001 CRVs use Part # 52385-SR3-003). Good job getting is fixed Eric!
Also, 52385-ST3-G01
What are you talkin about I just bought them at the dealership?
Thank you 🇺🇸👍
Thanks for leaving in the problems, too many creators edit it out.
That tool looks good, but there needs to be a wide thick foot that fits over the bolt end.
Less wobble effect, a straighter push on the new part.
Yea, I think that would make it better. Always great to see you in the comments.
Man this video is fantastic. You seriously saved my bacon going through the possible issues with this bushing replacement. I ended up throwing the bushings in the freezer a few days before doing this and that helped when pressing them in.
I juuuuust helped a buddy with his car and we had a bolt frozen in the bushing. Freaking pain in the butt. I'm glad I'm in good company!! Awesome video as always!
Nice video Eric. Real world auto mechanics. How hard can it be. Nothing is as easy as it looks. Thanks for the tips. 👍
On behalf of DIYer's who don't go this far mechanically, thanks Eric!
Shedding some light on the challenges a "real" mechanic goes through has educated me, and hopefully many others.
This might pose as a reminder for would be clients to put aside a few extra bucks (for additional parts n' labour) when having this kind of repair done.
Further proof that mechanic/auto technician does not equal crook.
No, thank you for your comment. I really appreciate it.
Started watching your channel when I had a civic like this one. Sold that thing years ago. But I still watch because I find great value in how you overcome when things go sideways. This video is a great example. Watching you struggle gives me tricks so I struggle less. Thanks for the video. Cheers.
That has always been my intention. Thank you for the comment.
I did both of those trail arm bushings in my Honda Civic 2000 LX about 8 months ago and they were easy to replace with a no special tools (an air hammer would help a lot, though). I gathered a lot of info before I did my work and according to a few sources you have to push the bushing from the inside to the outside and not the other way because either the bushing replacement or the arm is actually beveled. A 4 lb sledge hammer is your best friend for this job.
Thanks for the helpful tips Eric, great job. I'm super happy to see a Civic video :)
I watched the full version of the Integra rear suspension and this seems a lot more practical.
I see lots of these cars regardless of what city I go to, so I'm sure your work will be much appreciated.
Fellow rust belter here, this job is a right of passage for civic/integra owners. Especially if you have to do it without that special tool, on jack stands, in the winter time. In my case most of those bolts were totally seized, days of penetrating oil and heat didn't work and I ended up snapping 5 of them, I'm sure frustration played no role there. It can* be done without removing the toe adjustment bolt but is a serious PITA, you need something like a block of wood to hold the trailing arm down. Key thing is patience with troublesome bolts which Eric demonstrates very well. You rarely see him snapping a bolt and make a hard job worse. Chamfering and a hammer (or mini sledge) are definitely your friend for getting the bushing started to go in.
the way of patience you're showing here is really teaching me a lot in life......God blessed you dear brother
Did a rear disc swap on my del sol years ago, also added stainless steel lines and solid bushings. No rust and all of my fasteners came out without issue. Guess I got lucky. Brings back memories!
Howdy Eric, Just wanted to thank you for this video from 2022, Finally decided to replace my shot trailing arm bushings in my 99 Civic SI. I had done this on a 98 civic many years ago using a large socket the size of the bushing, and a large hammer (needless to say this wasn't fun going out or in, but I got it done), so I had bought the special tool in advance. Soaked all the bolts in penetrating oil for a couple days in preparation, but I should have taken heed: "Surely my alignment bolt wont be that stuck, I don't need to order the compensator arms" 'Lo and behold, the dreaded bushing sleeve spin. Thankfully it wasn't stuck in the end nut just the bushing, so I didn't have to use heat or drill a hole, I was able to grab the bushing after a couple attempts with vise grips and get the bolt out. One more hit to the wallet and all the new arms and bolts are on the way... thankfully I have time to do it right. Appreciate all your videos over the years.
Eric you e got some of the best repair tips around. I’m in school to be an automotive technician and I use a lot of your stylers and they help out very much
Thanks Eric! You make it look SO easy. That tool is awesome, but a bit pricey for a DIYer. Thanks a ton, and please keep it up!
Just about to reinstall drivers side compliance bush on our 2005 Rover 45 which has same bush/rear trailing arm. Luckily all the bolts came undone ok. I have put new bush in freezer as suggested. I've had trailing arm sandblasted and powder coated so hopefully I won't damage the finish trying to get the new bush in. I hope I'm as lucky loosening bolts when I do the other side. I'm replacing all the bushings, shock absorbers, springs, rear brakes, rear bearings and repainting all parts plus the floor. Great video, especially for a first timer doing this job, like me.
Great job, you know all the tricks to do this kinds of jobs, work well done ERIC!
Just got a new civic and have to do it as the bushing is GONE, I appreciate the video it'll be a big help
Need to do these on my 01 crv. Thanks for the video. I think I can do this. Also, I once rebuilt the front of a 1988 Acura legend, all from watching your videos. Thank you Eric
"It's been my experience" lol but seriously I appreciate your videos and the info you give to help us do our own work and keeps some coin in our pockets. Keep up the good work Eric.
Perfect timing Eric. I need to do this with my 92 EH sedan.
This is the video type that I love!
That job with a lift makes life much easier. I own 2 civics and I went through that job at least 4 times as far as I remember. And I don’t have a lift.
I have a different bushing removal tool, I have the LASER 4716, it is expensive but nice sturdy piece of kit. I will put my bit of input here.
I usually mark the position of the trailing arm bushing while the car is sitting on the ground.
Fot the alignment bolt, I usually use something sharp to make a marking all around the washer, so when the job is done you just sit the washer around the marking you have done earlier and if you do it precisely, you don’t need an alignment. Lucky me, my civics didn’t have such a stubborn bolt like yours.
All the bushings I bought here in Uk, already came with the chamfered edge, that is a huge help.
Those 2 bolts at 16:00 minutes, the very top ones, I strongly recommend start putting them in by hand, they are a pig to start getting them in, I usually use a floor jack to lift the trailing arm up in position the make life easier. Using the impact straight away to put them in, risks cross thread the threads on the body where the bolts are bolted in place. The previous owner of one of my civics did just that and when the time came for me to change the bushings, I had a bit of hard time to put one of the bolts back in place.
hello Rui Nunes i thought this laser 4716 tool was srtickly for Honda CRV...Does it work for Civic EK (1996*2000)
I don't know why Laser advertises it as for CRV only. I assume it should work on yours. This laser tool works fine on my 2 civics ( 6 gen 1.4cc 90HP years from 1995-2001 here in uk) My trailing arm is the same as Eric is using in this video. Check this link: czcams.com/video/bgNVZfu75Jc/video.html these guys are using one bushing extractor tool exactly the same as mine but with the trailing arm out side the car. This tool is made to avoid taking the trailing arm completely out of the car and without disconnecting brake lines. Obviously, if you take the trailing arm out of the car it will make your life way easier because it is much better to work on the work bench rather than on the floor.
As a note:
In many areas of the USA, us home repair and professional mechanics are forced to contend with the significant effects of rust and corrosion caused by road salt used in winter making disassembly a challenge indeed
flyonbyya you are right indeed.
Don't forget to spray some pb blaster or the like.
I like to use dry ice for shrinking bearings and bushings because sometimes the first chance fails. You could also heat up the trailing arm but I would probably avoid it because pressing on it after may warp it more easily when it's done.
Great video. Always great to have a reliable Honda in the fleet.
Last time I tried to use that tool it ended up bending the trailing arm because the bushing was too seized. Had to use a press to get it out. Really surprised that it came out so easy for you, especially with what happened with the toe arm!
The videos just get better and better lately Eric!
Thanks. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog/2250-october-2018-newsletter
We like to see the struggles Eric. It makes us feel better when we have struggles to know the ETCG has struggles as well.
Yes I love these civic videos. I have two 98 integra’s and have put this job off for two years now. Awesome videos. I really love how it’s a real pain in the ass for you too even doing as much as you’ve done it all depends on the car or bolt. Thanks Eric
Much respect for the work you did here!
Finally a good old fashioned repair video 10/10
While the car is in the shop, the customer takes a coffee, open the fridge for some milk, there are bushings where the popcicles used to be.
This is the kind of video i love!
4:56 "I could be scared, or I could just do it" if that's not the truest thing I've ever heard I don't know what is
Pablo Cruz just do it
@John Doe dude....😂
Yeah, some great quotes in this episode, my fave was, "Gonna need a bigger boat."
Eric this video is fantastic! I am having my bushings replaced on my Integra. Hopefully those bolts come out
Thank you for this, I have a 2000 CRV that needs this job done - much appreciated !
I have a '98 CRV and I'm in the middle of replacing the rear trailing arm bushings(with Honda OEM..not messing around with the aftermarket on such a critical item), rear stabilizer bar end-links & bushings,rear struts, and the compensating arms. I bought new bolts for the bottom strut mount and four bolts for the compensating arms. After watching Eric struggle with the inner compensating arm bolt I was fearing the worst since I've owned the vehicle for 22+ years and I know those bolts have never been removed. I live in the Atlantic City area(around 8 miles inland) so although we're certainly not the Rust Belt we do occasionally get snow and our roads are often treated with salt. I was relieved and thrilled when both of the inner compensating arm bolts came loose without too much effort. Before I loosened them I scribed around the bolts to insure they'll be in the same position when I put everything back together. The new trailing arm bushings are resting comfortably in the freezer awaiting installation. Hopefully today goes as well as yesterday.
I discovered your channel recently and I drive a Honda Accord and you have many videos working on the Honda J series motor, specifically timing belt and clutch. My .mechanic wants $1999 for a clutch job with cheap parts and $920 for a timing belt an water pump. Thanks to you I think ive seen the last of my mechanic. Thank you!!!
I'm happy to be of service. Thank you for your comment.
find a new mechanic. your old mechanic was a complete rip off
Great information! Hope i dont struggle when it's time for the da9 to get the rear trailing arm bushing done!😕 Thanks! For the encouragement!✌
Well done bruh! Thanks for all the infos and keep up the good work.
thanks for the Video, I recently started to look for better ways to fix the bushing problem on my 97 integra, it looks a lot easier than the one you did several years ago, I'll try soon, I am an amateur on these, so wish me luck
.....I got to change the suspension bushing on my 1998 Daihatsu Charade. Its a much simpler setup and I will be doing it DIY at home. I will follow your tip to freeze the bushing the night before. Thank you.
On the same note, back in the 90's, me and my dad changed the bushings on my Mercedes Benz (W116), and boy that was a big, big battle. We tried all heavy tools and heat but it would not budge, untill finally we got a thick walled pipe cut to a good length, got it machined on a lathe and used a big hydraulic press to push it out.!!
Thanks for sharing the real struggles in the process!!!
Great video Eric! Keep up the good work!Bravo!
Man...Rear Drum Brakes, that is so old :-) Did them on a buddy's '08 Versa and they weren't nearly in the cond' of this one. Must have been sitting for a very very long time. Hella Work Eric!
Thanks Eric as always… you’re the man!
That's how it is done rusted bolts and all very good video!
The Right tools do make A big difference 👍
Informative and entertaining - a lot of stuff hitting the floor there Eric!
Thank goodness my Integra has never lived in rust-prone areas. I've never had a problem with those bolts. But those big trailing arm bushings are one thing most people forget when they change the ride height on a Honda vehicle. When the ride height is changed, suddenly the orientation of the trailing arm bushing becomes incorrect for the ride height, and thus they tend to wear out much faster than before. I replaced all my suspension bushings including the trailing arms with HardRace hard rubber bushings some years ago. I took everything off the car, and then hauled everything (including the trailing arms) to a guy I knew who runs a local shop, to press them all in for me. Before I started I marked the TA bushing orientation by using a straight edge against the TA bushing's through bar, scribing lines on the trailing arm itself. That way the new bushings could be pressed in at the correct orientation for my car's ride height.
cakework with the right tools. that bushing press really is magic.
Hey Éric ( sorry for my bad english, I am a French canadian hehe) I just want to tell you thank you. A couple year ago I started to watch your video and started to work on my own car. Now I'm a young mechanic and I share my passion with other people. Thank you and keep on doing your great work.
I find your english very good mon cher ..Lache pas Éric moi aussi ma passion c'est de me salir les mains apres
la Acura EL de mon gars...Je viens de lui installer trailingg arms bushings plus des cambers arms ajustable et des toe arms ajustable aussi. CRISSE de bushing gelés! OUPPS
Amuse toi !
Denis ( De La Prairie)
Thank you very much! It's comments like yours that keep me going during dark times. I really appreciate you taking the time to share that with me. Good luck in your career.
Your English is actually very good. you speak better English than alot of people that only speak English here on CZcams.
Wow, new camera? Very clear! Thanks for Honda videos.
Thank you for the fine video! Excellent work!
Thank goodness my car lives in Texas where rust is rare!
Thanks for the video Eric, I just ordered that tool from J&B.
This is why I use antiseize on any nut and bolt on the underside of the vehicle. I also use some of it on the brake drums and rotors to keep galvanic corrosion away.
I love how he gives me permission to overdo it on the anti-seize 🤣 its truly great advice thank you eric 👍
While it sucks that the bolt in the trailing arm gave you problems, it was neat seeing you torque on it with the breaker bar and watching the toe change to see that's how its adjusted
I'm not looking forward to doing this on my Civic. Thanks for the video.
That's a brutal job without a lift.
Even more so without the tool.
Had to do it twice on both of my crx's without removing the control arm and on the ground.
Much more so without some heat, or a pry/crowbar. Definitely worth getting the tools you need.
Only took about 3 hrs of beating on it with a hammer on one side
I changed mine in my 1989 hatch, and had to take the entire trailing arm off and take it to a machine shop. It sucked.
My ‘97 civic hatch needed bushings, I drove it into the sea instead.
My '93 Civic needs them too, I just ignore the issue and keep driving her. 315K miles and counting.
I did them on a Civic i had a few years ago. Took me an hour and a half worked ok. But yeah its a rather shit job. Everything else in these 90s civics is mostly easy and fun to do.
@@99Lezard99 If you can still get HardRace hard rubber bushings, they're a great OEM replacement at a fraction of OEM or Mugen rubber bushing cost. I just pulled off every suspension arm on my Integra and took them to a shop to have them all pressed in.
@@Patrick94GSR How much did that all end up costing you?
Anthony Gonsalves man it was a number of years ago. I think for the complete bushing set plus installation and alignment may have been in the $300-$400 range.
Wondering if that's the culprit to all the rear-end clunking sounds on my 2003 Honda Element. I did watch your previous videos, years ago about the rear end sounds...replaced all the stuff you mentioned but clunking still kept on for another 5 years....I'm at 312,000 miles knock on wood! Thanks for all your videos through the years man!
did a vw rear axle bushing couple months ago... had to remove the damn axle... was a complete PITA getting the bushings out and in.
Showing where to window that toe arm nut! You are the man for real!
Mechanic said I needed the bushings done, but wanted to replace the whole control arm a lot of dough like you said.
I really appreciated the struggle putting it back in...
Hardrace makes these bushings too. Good alternative to the solid ones that can cause snap oversteer when driving hard.
When I did the replacement on my 97 Toyota Tercel...I pressed it out from the front like on this video, but pressed it in from the back.
I too had a bit of a problem with it going in crooked as well.
I used my impact....much easier
did the same job on a '00 Civic a few months ago... had to order parts 3 times because everything was "rust welded" together! get info Eric!
Did the same job last summer, did not remember having issue with that tool installing the bushing. But I have to cut the bolt from that thing.
Now I have that tool and I don’t think I’ll have to use it again haha.
Classic ETCG Video !!!!
Good work man!
Really enjoy Eric the car guy, him and Chris Fix are a wealth of knowledge, I would probably rather have a few beer with Eric though! 😂🇨🇦👍🏻
This is a good video. Thanks for this.
I know this is 4 years old, but I laughed out loud when you said "turned more challenging than you originally thought, but that's how it goes when working on rusty cars like this one" HA! That is in pristine condition compared to the rusty conditions we encounter when working on our cars, here in Scotland. Still an awesome video that passes the test of time. Thanks👍
You could use a gear puller and one of those 'plumbing reducer coupling' and square head plugs as the 'cup'. 3 jaw puller may reduce chance of misalignment during installation. Also the bushing housing is tapered, and is wiser to install it from under the vehicle, but that special tool in the video doesn't allow it.
With the 'special tool', I had to place the piston/bolt tip, between the hole on the cup and the outer border of the cup (3 or 9 o'clock position). Once it went in a little, I could then use the hole in the middle to push it in.
I'd suggest covering that hole, as more water getting in could contribute to rust
I love seeing your Integra in the background
That’s awesome that it is actually a real world situation because that’s exactly how most of these come apart
Great video thanks Eric!
Had to do this on both sides of my '95 Integra to pass inspection one year, I took the entire control arm off the car because I didn't have that special tool, but with a little WD40 the new bushings tapped in with a hammer fairly easily. And I had the exact same problem with the compensator arms, the bolt froze to the bushing. Bought a pair of used OEM comp arms on Ebay for $15, went to Honda for new bolts.
Just did this job on my 98 crv in the driveway. This tool made it so much easier. I sprayed the toe adjustment bolts every day for about three days with kroil prior to trying to loosen them. Now my integra needs the same treatment.
I need to do this on my 88civic 89crx and 93 integra 😬
Where do you get the tool at
It's the bushing Eric. The cheap bushings don't have a bevel on the edges and they flat will not go in.
I did look closely at the ones I bought, also compared them with OEM honda ones. There is a difference. That is why Eric had to grind a bevel into them.
Great video, Sir. Thank you!
Loving the new, shorter editing! Previously i had to wait until i had time to watch the 30-45 minute episodes.
I have been trying to put out shorter content lately. With YT these days it's all about watch time.
Since 1969 I've worked on VW Bugs, Datsun 600-Series pickups, mid-sixties Chevys, and a 1998 Honda CR-V. I learned my lesson: every nut and bolt gets a dab of "Neverseez" graphite-based anti-seize compound - been using the same 50s-era pint can since it was given to me in 1970.
God Bless!!!! Even with that awesome tool it was a mission!!! I would blow that shit up out of pure frustration. More power to you👍
Nice job and a cool tool !
Good thing I bought a aftermarket warranty that many don't recommend, that warranty covered a lot of issues including those Bushings with 100$ deductible on my 07 TL
So nice to see the pros struggle with basic things like rusted bolts and bushings going in sideways.
Thank you Eric. I’m about to tackle this on an Integra and your video provides great info.
I use nothing but energy suspension trailing arm bushings. They are easier to install about 30 to 40 bucks for the pair and they last pretty much forever while still performing better also. I recommended that over the oe style !
Great video Eric
After watching and asking in a Honda shop how hard it would've been to change (before studying to be a Mechanic) I decided to use the Energy Suspension ones better for my '93 Civic
Polyurethane bushings are total crap for Hondas, especially for the trailing arms. The way these arms are designed, they have to move up and down AND side to side through the range of suspension movement, and poly bushings in the trailing arms tend to bind up, and don't allow for proper suspension movement. There was a thread in the Integra Type R forum some years ago by a guy who replaced poly TA bushings on his Type R that had completely warped and cracked after only a few months with only a few track sessions, and put in some HardRace hard rubber bushings instead. Or maybe he put in spherical bearing bushings, I can't remember. Point is, poly bushings generally wear out and fail must faster than OEM rubber or hard rubber replacement bushings.
Would the hardrace rubber defeat the purpose of side to side movement allowed by the oem rta?
Mine rusted so much the bushing and the arm sunk :D After some welding work the bushings are in place again. Next replacement will be the whole car :) Very hard job on those civics
This is the best car mechanic channel ever. Thanks Eric, keep coming. BTW, where is Brian, The camera man?
Thank you!
When I install these on an Integra, CRV, or Civic, I have a secret handshake. I put the car up on a lift, put a post jack up to support the car at that corner. Don't do this: I usually push the lift arm out of the way once the weight is on the post jack. I pull that arm down with a ratchet strap to hold it down and in place while I press the bushing out and replacement in. I usually use genuine Honda bushings too. Aftermarket bushings have been tough to press in.
I had to do my first one of those bushing yesterday. Its a horrible job but plenty of WD-40 makes it a lot easier
Replacing suspension bushings is always a PITA. Even here in Florida, the suspension bolts tend to rust in place.
I need to do this on my brothers 2006 Pilot. I bought 2 new trailing arms to install on the car. Hopefully it doesn’t prove to be quite this big a challenge but with 226k on the odometer I have my doubts. All of the other suspension components that I replaced on this car have really fought me in terms of getting the old parts off the car. I had to use a torch as well and I only have a propane torch. I had to heat the inner tie rod adjusting nuts up for like 5-10 minutes before they actually broke loose.
Chanfer the edge left exposed metal leading to rust issues. I with you painted that up.
Came to find this video. Attempting to do this on my 97. In Iowa. You can imagine about how well it's going... Luckily it's no longer my daily driver.
Fire and Ice, love it
Suspension bolts are the devil's work - on EVERY car. Earlier this year, working on my drive, it took me hours just to undo two pinch bolts. Eventually I too had to use heat which fried the bushes and doubled the parts bill.
I've had so many fuck ups when using power tools, so I always loosen the suspension bolts with a breaker bar first.
@@panzerveps Suspension bolts are FAR more likely to break with a breaker bar as opposed to an impact wrench. With a breaker bar you're putting a high, sustained torque load on the bolt head, as opposed to an impact wrench which puts very short, sharp blows to the bolt head. Much less likely to break with the impact. And no not EVERY car has this problem. My Integra GSR suspension has been apart more times than I can count and I've never broken a bolt. I had to tap and chase the threads on my front shock fork pinch bolts, but that's about it. It just depends on the climate the car has lived in over the years. Luckily the first time I lowered the car in 2002 I had an impact wrench available and did not break any bolts.