I finally got mine loose. Used PB blaster let it soak and it came out. Ended up having to cut the shaft though because it had mushroomed inside of the tub do to excessive hits with a sledge. This was literally the hardest shaft I've ever removed I have 4 of theses machines so Glad i figured it out. Thanks for the video
Update now I guess I will junk this thing! Broken my tub. Found one on e-buy but they don’t ship the item. Two states away…. It’s toasted for me…. Thanks
I do the same “ bye bye old one”. But if you use a short mallet steal of course and hit the transmission from the inner tub it will come loose, but will take a lot of force and time.
using jack cracks balancer .. outside breaks cracks tub need to pound it from inside with a good socket then all you need is a gear case not the whole tub assem
Thought of breaking the hub on the inner tub to separate the baskets and just replace the hub. Only problem is I can find just the hub replacement. I see another common one online but not the this type with all the notches. Wonder if it matters???
Again, that transmission is not a quality assembly. I've been in the habit of wiggling all inner baskets even if I'm only working on the dryer just out of curiosity of the degree of wear, and to incline my customer of future repairs. I do quite a few dryer motors which is a fairly pricey repair, and I would not sell that repair without letting them know the washer will be needing a trans in the near future. Approximately 70 % of the baskets I wiggle have excessive play in it. I don't even bother removing the front panel because its definitely leaking by that point. Drive shaft must not have any play in it, otherwise gearcase is toast. Now the question for you is do you want to put the full assembly in. If you've gone this far I'm sure you would be able to do the repair. Trickiest part is securing the wire harnesses under the motor area so they dont run or interfere. You can call GE, and get the proper part number, not sure if they're the cheapest, but at least you'll have the correct part number, and can cross reference from there as far as different supplier pricing. Essentially it's the transmission, inner basket, and outer tub. You'll have to swap the motor, shifter, pulley, and top ring I believe. Keep in mind, this machine is well known to have this failure before the belts expire. Good luck!
Call ge parts, I didn't have any luck with the complete assembly through outside suppliers. It's been a while since I've done a lookup on these though. Its always good to do 2 lookups on parts, that way you can cross reference, and hopefully weed out a bad lookup
I’m at the point that your at here can’t get the thing apart! And seam not worth all the money and trouble. Looked up part for all and it’s over $500 bucks. Wishing for a used tub and all.
Unfortunately that's the issue with these. Most of the time the tub seizes to the transmission. I've tried everything to get these apart with minimal success. Try spraying liquid wrench, or the equivalent first, then a hammer, then heat, and or a bigger hammer. Usually by that point the tub is starting to get beat up though. That is why GE offers the replacement transmission, inner, and outer tubs as a complete assembly, which is a bit laborious but pretty clear how to do it. We have also been replacing the speed sensor at that time, as I've seen a few of those fail, and its much easier to replace when its all apart upside down.
That is to illustrate how common it is for these tubs to seize to the drive shaft. Basically if after you remove the agitator, and tub nut, and try to pull the inner tub up, and out it may go. If not I whack it a few times with a 36" or so 2x4. If that doesn't do it, I'm on the phone with GE doing a lookup for the complete tub/transmission assembly.
i dont keep history of part numbers, it's best to call ge parts direct, and they'll help you with the lookup, and sort out any substitute part numbers that may apply.
@@toddolsen995 OK. Sorry it frustrates me as I have had Craigslist buys for a washer and dryer at less than $300 that held up like a tank with no repairs needed. This my first time ever needing to get the stacked combo and it blows my mind how sorry the quality is. Also, this is random. Sometimes it doesnt happen but when it is spinning it literally starts making the front cover start to come off of the washer. Ive had to replace a broken coupler on a whirlpool stand alone top load washer and it was inexpensive and easy. But the amount of problems people seem to have with these things is incredible. I can fix anything when I learn it. But again for it being brand new and not even 6 months old it is frustrating as hell. Thanks. I almost bougjht a samsung that was higher capacity, only like $150 more, and it had a 10 year warranty which is 5x the warranty. The only reason I didnt get it is because the dimensions exceeded the closet space. Good thing I didnt buy it though because the components and parts they use seem to be a reactive chemistry set that rots and corrodes like crazy. I dont see how they have a 10 yr warranty building such crap. But if these are inexpensive to fix I guess I should just deal with it. I miss the old days when the same amount of money would buy a stout and reliable setup.
10 years is most likely the guarantee on the stator motor that will most likely not fail anyway. As far as the cover falling off, try overbending or replacing the tension clips that hold it in place.
I appreciate the video but uh, umm you should uh, umm makes some uh notes umm and uh work on your uh, umm narration. I couldn't get through ti. Some people are really good at improvising. Others, not so much. I would also suck at it but II know that and I would do more prep and editing.
I finally got mine loose. Used PB blaster let it soak and it came out. Ended up having to cut the shaft though because it had mushroomed inside of the tub do to excessive hits with a sledge. This was literally the hardest shaft I've ever removed I have 4 of theses machines so Glad i figured it out. Thanks for the video
Update now I guess I will junk this thing! Broken my tub. Found one on e-buy but they don’t ship the item. Two states away…. It’s toasted for me…. Thanks
I do the same “ bye bye old one”. But if you use a short mallet steal of course and hit the transmission from the inner tub it will come loose, but will take a lot of force and time.
using jack cracks balancer .. outside breaks cracks tub need to pound it from inside with a good socket then all you need is a gear case not the whole tub assem
I'm on #3 of this machine. First one was warranty swap after 12 months, 2nd one same thing after 12 months. 3rd one is 6 years old and still no noise.
Yeah, hit or miss for sure. They look pretty much the same. Unfortunately I don't hear if there's any changes in the manufacture process or watnot.
I thing washer with old gear wh38x10002 is the best because you can overhaul it and you can get all it part from south us
Replacement comes complete WH45X24615 units never seem to come apart not cost effective
Thought of breaking the hub on the inner tub to separate the baskets and just replace the hub. Only problem is I can find just the hub replacement. I see another common one online but not the this type with all the notches. Wonder if it matters???
Again, that transmission is not a quality assembly. I've been in the habit of wiggling all inner baskets even if I'm only working on the dryer just out of curiosity of the degree of wear, and to incline my customer of future repairs. I do quite a few dryer motors which is a fairly pricey repair, and I would not sell that repair without letting them know the washer will be needing a trans in the near future. Approximately 70 % of the baskets I wiggle have excessive play in it. I don't even bother removing the front panel because its definitely leaking by that point. Drive shaft must not have any play in it, otherwise gearcase is toast. Now the question for you is do you want to put the full assembly in. If you've gone this far I'm sure you would be able to do the repair. Trickiest part is securing the wire harnesses under the motor area so they dont run or interfere. You can call GE, and get the proper part number, not sure if they're the cheapest, but at least you'll have the correct part number, and can cross reference from there as far as different supplier pricing. Essentially it's the transmission, inner basket, and outer tub. You'll have to swap the motor, shifter, pulley, and top ring I believe. Keep in mind, this machine is well known to have this failure before the belts expire. Good luck!
@@toddolsen995 Trickiest part is securing the wire harnesses under the motor area so they dont run...
Make it not run? I got ya covered 1000%
Where did you get the complete tub unit first the stack washer dryer .
Call ge parts, I didn't have any luck with the complete assembly through outside suppliers. It's been a while since I've done a lookup on these though. Its always good to do 2 lookups on parts, that way you can cross reference, and hopefully weed out a bad lookup
I’m at the point that your at here can’t get the thing apart! And seam not worth all the money and trouble. Looked up part for all and it’s over $500 bucks. Wishing for a used tub and all.
Is it possible to replace the tub seal on these models. Ours has leaked and I have the entire tub out and nut off but can't get further .
Unfortunately that's the issue with these. Most of the time the tub seizes to the transmission. I've tried everything to get these apart with minimal success. Try spraying liquid wrench, or the equivalent first, then a hammer, then heat, and or a bigger hammer. Usually by that point the tub is starting to get beat up though. That is why GE offers the replacement transmission, inner, and outer tubs as a complete assembly, which is a bit laborious but pretty clear how to do it. We have also been replacing the speed sensor at that time, as I've seen a few of those fail, and its much easier to replace when its all apart upside down.
It looks like Matt laxon had good luck with pb blaster, I have no/ tried that specific product, but maybee worth a go, good luck !!!
I am so lost on what he is doing. He jumped from one item to another and busted up the tub ??????
That is to illustrate how common it is for these tubs to seize to the drive shaft. Basically if after you remove the agitator, and tub nut, and try to pull the inner tub up, and out it may go. If not I whack it a few times with a 36" or so 2x4. If that doesn't do it, I'm on the phone with GE doing a lookup for the complete tub/transmission assembly.
What is the part number of the assembly
i dont keep history of part numbers, it's best to call ge parts direct, and they'll help you with the lookup, and sort out any substitute part numbers that may apply.
My basket is smashing into the front cover. This is the biggest piece of f***ing sh*t I have ever experienced. It is just barely 6 months old.
It may just be a loose tub nut being so new. Pull the agitator, and inspect the nut
@@toddolsen995 OK. Sorry it frustrates me as I have had Craigslist buys for a washer and dryer at less than $300 that held up like a tank with no repairs needed. This my first time ever needing to get the stacked combo and it blows my mind how sorry the quality is.
Also, this is random. Sometimes it doesnt happen but when it is spinning it literally starts making the front cover start to come off of the washer. Ive had to replace a broken coupler on a whirlpool stand alone top load washer and it was inexpensive and easy. But the amount of problems people seem to have with these things is incredible. I can fix anything when I learn it. But again for it being brand new and not even 6 months old it is frustrating as hell. Thanks.
I almost bougjht a samsung that was higher capacity, only like $150 more, and it had a 10 year warranty which is 5x the warranty. The only reason I didnt get it is because the dimensions exceeded the closet space. Good thing I didnt buy it though because the components and parts they use seem to be a reactive chemistry set that rots and corrodes like crazy. I dont see how they have a 10 yr warranty building such crap. But if these are inexpensive to fix I guess I should just deal with it. I miss the old days when the same amount of money would buy a stout and reliable setup.
10 years is most likely the guarantee on the stator motor that will most likely not fail anyway. As far as the cover falling off, try overbending or replacing the tension clips that hold it in place.
I appreciate the video but uh, umm you should uh, umm makes some uh notes umm and uh work on your uh, umm narration. I couldn't get through ti. Some people are really good at improvising. Others, not so much. I would also suck at it but II know that and I would do more prep and editing.