The sculling draw is great, and I use it regularly! Word of warning to anybody trying this for the first time: When you want to terminate the stroke make sure to ease off on the paddle pressure _gradually_ . It's very easy to apply a lot of pressure to the water with this stroke and you'll unconsciously shift your balance and body position to compensate. If you stop sculling suddenly, you might find yourself flipping into the water in the direction of the paddle because you're still leaned out over the side of your boat!
With sculling, I like how the different explanations do the trick for different people. Spreading butter, figure of eight, hydrodynamic lift (for the physics team) - each to their own ...
Love the draw stroke and my favorite variation is what I’d call the static draw stroke that uses speed of the boat relative to the water to create the lateral force on the blade. EJ describes it as “sailing your kayak” which is a good way of saying how it feels when you do it right. It’s a bit advanced but I’m sure you know how to do it far better than me. Keep up the great videos!
My first Capsize was whilst doing the Draw stroke, the blade touched the side of the boat and in a flash I was dropping out of the Kayak. Not tried the Knifing stoke yet, will next time I am on the water. I prefer the Sculling Draw as for me it is the one that I fell most control and stable with. I did find that adding a little bit of edge whilst sculling made the boat move faster through the water. It was the one stroke that most of the group I am paddling with on the start of our Paddling adventures has struggled to get.
The T-draw (I do a 90 degree rotation) is a great stroke to develop skills toward high brace and roll that starts off dull, safe and boring and works it's way to being a real power stroke for all sorts of recoveries. For the river kayaker, I have the upper arm below the eyeline, not above, to avoid over extension of the shoulders, and allows the lower hand and blade to be much lower and deeper. And don't forget the chest / spine rotation to make the reach so much easier!
The single hand variation of the sculling draw is a very handy skill as it leaves the other hand free to do stuff, for instance adjusting slalom gate poles.. There's a joke version of this stroke set, turn the head and torso as far as is practical , then paddle sideways using both blades alternately on the same side of the boat, thi is less than stable , learn it after mastering at least one roll.
Perfect timing - I needed this lesson. I really struggle with the sculling draw, but I had never before heard it suggested to use my core to drive the movements. I suspect too that I am not subtle enough with the climbing angle on the paddle. Tomorrow this is my focus on the lake. Thanks Ken!
An epiphany that I had, years back when first learning to whitewater, was this: when your paddle is firmly planted in the water and actively engaged in a stroke, it is your FIXED point in space; everything else, you, your boat, is fluid in space relative to that fixed point. Using your arms, shoulders, abs and hips, you can pivot or slide your boat towards, away or around that fixed point in space. For example, plant your paddle on one side in a power stroke, and use your arms and hips to carve your boat around that point. It's only momentary-- as soon as you reach the end of your reach you will need to replant that blade- but it's all you need to move your boat or simply achieve stability in moving water.
You look so comfortable on the water! Like a water bird. Perhaps, it's the kayak, too?! I should watch that review of it you've done you mention at 0:55; for the kayak does look impressive: stable, not that big, and also great-looking (simple, unsophisticated, robust, smooth design). But I do not drive! Perhaps, I can put this rigid kayak on a cart behind my bicycle?!
The sculling draw is a bit awkward at first, but it was quick for me to learn. A bonus is this year when I needed to brace when getting sideways in a rapid, that brace came quickly and easily. It was not a beautiful brace, but it worked because I was already comfortable twisting sideways with my arms over the side. The training kicked in without thinking, which was cool. Saved me and the dog from a swim.
As both a sea kayaker and white water boater. I use all three of these draws. On moving water they are vital to setting up a line, moving within an eddy. Pulling yourself over to an over turned boater, or just avoiding an object. Just like a power boat, a power boat has zero control unless it's prop is moving. Same with a paddle, you don't have control unless your blade is in contact with the water.
They all work in moving water. When your boat is moving, you'll use the sculling draw technique, but you don't need to scull because your kayak's motion through the water is replacing your need to move the paddle. You just need to put the paddle in the right spot out to the side of your kayak, with a climbing angle on the blade and your kayak will naturally be drawn towards it. Hard to describe in text...
I am wondering if the upper hand is slightly too high, which goes against having arms in a safe paddle box to prevent shoulder dislocation in stronger waters. Should the upper hand be slightly lower not higher than the forehead
As long as you turn your upper body to face the paddle, then your hands are in front of your body and in a safe position. That's the key to keeping your shoulders safe - keeping your hands in front of your body. It's when you reach back that your shoulder is most vulnerable. Also... My hand will be higher than some people, because I have long arms.
I paddle with Greenland paddles only. The sculling draw is what I commonly use. The draw stroke is worthless for me. Ken, how is your Greenland paddle practice going?
Pretty good! I recently went on a solo paddling mission with the IPIK. It was the first time that I didn't even notice the difference. It felt totally natural to me. Took some time to develop that comfort, but I've got it now! Stay tuned for that video. I was testing (and abusing) a really beautiful new kayak.
The sculling draw is great, and I use it regularly! Word of warning to anybody trying this for the first time: When you want to terminate the stroke make sure to ease off on the paddle pressure _gradually_ . It's very easy to apply a lot of pressure to the water with this stroke and you'll unconsciously shift your balance and body position to compensate. If you stop sculling suddenly, you might find yourself flipping into the water in the direction of the paddle because you're still leaned out over the side of your boat!
With sculling, I like how the different explanations do the trick for different people. Spreading butter, figure of eight, hydrodynamic lift (for the physics team) - each to their own ...
As a seasonal paddler, I appreciate the refresh. I have to relearn the finer points of these every year. I always get sloppy in one way or another.
Love the draw stroke and my favorite variation is what I’d call the static draw stroke that uses speed of the boat relative to the water to create the lateral force on the blade. EJ describes it as “sailing your kayak” which is a good way of saying how it feels when you do it right. It’s a bit advanced but I’m sure you know how to do it far better than me. Keep up the great videos!
My first Capsize was whilst doing the Draw stroke, the blade touched the side of the boat and in a flash I was dropping out of the Kayak. Not tried the Knifing stoke yet, will next time I am on the water. I prefer the Sculling Draw as for me it is the one that I fell most control and stable with. I did find that adding a little bit of edge whilst sculling made the boat move faster through the water. It was the one stroke that most of the group I am paddling with on the start of our Paddling adventures has struggled to get.
The T-draw (I do a 90 degree rotation) is a great stroke to develop skills toward high brace and roll that starts off dull, safe and boring and works it's way to being a real power stroke for all sorts of recoveries.
For the river kayaker, I have the upper arm below the eyeline, not above, to avoid over extension of the shoulders, and allows the lower hand and blade to be much lower and deeper. And don't forget the chest / spine rotation to make the reach so much easier!
The single hand variation of the sculling draw is a very handy skill as it leaves the other hand free to do stuff, for instance adjusting slalom gate poles..
There's a joke version of this stroke set, turn the head and torso as far as is practical , then paddle sideways using both blades alternately on the same side of the boat, thi is less than stable , learn it after mastering at least one roll.
Perfect timing - I needed this lesson. I really struggle with the sculling draw, but I had never before heard it suggested to use my core to drive the movements. I suspect too that I am not subtle enough with the climbing angle on the paddle. Tomorrow this is my focus on the lake. Thanks Ken!
Cheers Mary! Hope it helped.
This is fascinating! Thanks so much for sharing the scrulling stroke so clearly!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love the way he's always on flat water !!! Stuff I can only dream of !!!
As always, I'm in awe of your paddling skills. Great informative video. thank you!
I always paddle sideways. Its so much more sophisticated!
😀 Thanks so much for the lesson, Ken! I can't wait to try it! Warmest regards!
My pleasure!
Great video, Thanks!
I need to practice these!! Thanks, Ken!!
I swear I was following the exact steps for the skulling draw stroke, with significant enough force, but wasn't moving my boat at all.
An epiphany that I had, years back when first learning to whitewater, was this: when your paddle is firmly planted in the water and actively engaged in a stroke, it is your FIXED point in space; everything else, you, your boat, is fluid in space relative to that fixed point. Using your arms, shoulders, abs and hips, you can pivot or slide your boat towards, away or around that fixed point in space.
For example, plant your paddle on one side in a power stroke, and use your arms and hips to carve your boat around that point. It's only momentary-- as soon as you reach the end of your reach you will need to replant that blade- but it's all you need to move your boat or simply achieve stability in moving water.
Greatly appreciate your technique videos.
I'm headed out the door for an evening on the water, and now i have something to practise!
Cool! I will work on those.
You look so comfortable on the water! Like a water bird.
Perhaps, it's the kayak, too?! I should watch that review of it you've done you mention at 0:55; for the kayak does look impressive: stable, not that big, and also great-looking (simple, unsophisticated, robust, smooth design).
But I do not drive! Perhaps, I can put this rigid kayak on a cart behind my bicycle?!
The sculling draw is a bit awkward at first, but it was quick for me to learn. A bonus is this year when I needed to brace when getting sideways in a rapid, that brace came quickly and easily. It was not a beautiful brace, but it worked because I was already comfortable twisting sideways with my arms over the side. The training kicked in without thinking, which was cool. Saved me and the dog from a swim.
good skill
The sculling draw is a work in progress for me! I'm much better at it in my 14 footer than my longer boat. Thanks for the tips!
Cheers!
Which of these strokes can be used in moving water or with the boat moving? Or how do they need to be modified for use in a swift or whitewater?
As both a sea kayaker and white water boater. I use all three of these draws. On moving water they are vital to setting up a line, moving within an eddy. Pulling yourself over to an over turned boater, or just avoiding an object. Just like a power boat, a power boat has zero control unless it's prop is moving. Same with a paddle, you don't have control unless your blade is in contact with the water.
They all work in moving water. When your boat is moving, you'll use the sculling draw technique, but you don't need to scull because your kayak's motion through the water is replacing your need to move the paddle. You just need to put the paddle in the right spot out to the side of your kayak, with a climbing angle on the blade and your kayak will naturally be drawn towards it. Hard to describe in text...
@@PaddleTV it would be helpful to see this in a video sometme.
I am wondering if the upper hand is slightly too high, which goes against having arms in a safe paddle box to prevent shoulder dislocation in stronger waters. Should the upper hand be slightly lower not higher than the forehead
As long as you turn your upper body to face the paddle, then your hands are in front of your body and in a safe position. That's the key to keeping your shoulders safe - keeping your hands in front of your body. It's when you reach back that your shoulder is most vulnerable. Also... My hand will be higher than some people, because I have long arms.
fast forward to 2:00 to avoid the self promotion and product advertising.
If you don't know this stroke, yer not a paddler.
I paddle with Greenland paddles only. The sculling draw is what I commonly use. The draw stroke is worthless for me.
Ken, how is your Greenland paddle practice going?
Pretty good! I recently went on a solo paddling mission with the IPIK. It was the first time that I didn't even notice the difference. It felt totally natural to me. Took some time to develop that comfort, but I've got it now! Stay tuned for that video. I was testing (and abusing) a really beautiful new kayak.
Great video! Thank you so much!