One of the hardest parts of this job was taking off the three electical connectors (2 grey, one blk. on a 1.6) Not until I got the heat gun out and gave them ea. 20 sec. at low heat was I able to get them off. Keep the screwdriver and pliers away from these beauties. I was at the limit of my patience before I even got to any nuts or bolts. I was able to get the sensor down and then out with one hand after removing the connectors, the adjacent hose to the intake, and engine lift hook with the attendant ground wire. Getting it back in was much more difficult. Before taking it out completely, I immediately shove it back in ; no problem. Maybe I did not note the position of the two inner prongs well enough, or perhaps they rotated as I took them out. With a mirror I could see inside the back of the intake area. The two prongs are identical in shape, and are exactly opposite of each other, but they are closer to one side of the circle than the other. Not until I took the u bracket off covering the top back portion of the sensor and its oring could I get the devil back in. This might be an easy job if you are lucky, if not set aside a few hours and get ready to exercise some back muscles and some words not found in Webster's book.
I couldn't take mine out of the engine bay for a 1997. The hardest part was putting it back in. Ended up loosening the cap journal and it slid right in. By the way, cap over the CAS journal is 10 ft-pounds after forum search. They seemed tighter than that when loosening, so I put a little loctite
Mine leaked on my heater hose and caused one to fail, so I had both heater hoses off. It definitely gives you more access and another angle to turn a wrench on that hard to reach bolt. Word to the wise: use a 12mm socket and swiveling ratchet to loosen that bolt, then use a wrench or your fingers the rest of the way. The ratchet and socket will become wedged against the firewall as the bolt unscrews. Also use oil or vasiline on the o-ring to help it go back in.
You're welcome. I mean it. Many many years ago we only had magazines. They either told you in detail, but only part of it, or skipped through missing much info....sure you get the picture :)
One of the hardest parts of this job was taking off the three electical connectors (2 grey, one blk. on
a 1.6) Not until I got the heat gun out and gave them ea. 20 sec. at low heat was I able to get them off.
Keep the screwdriver and pliers away from these beauties. I was at the limit of my patience before I even got to any nuts or bolts.
I was able to get the sensor down and then out with one hand after removing the connectors, the adjacent hose to the intake, and engine lift hook with the attendant ground wire. Getting it back in was much more difficult. Before taking it out completely, I immediately shove it back in ; no problem. Maybe I did not note the position of the two inner prongs well enough, or perhaps they rotated as I took them out. With a mirror I
could see inside the back of the intake area. The two prongs are identical in shape, and are
exactly opposite of each other, but they are closer to one side of the circle than the other.
Not until I took the u bracket off covering the top back portion of the sensor and its oring could I get
the devil back in.
This might be an easy job if you are lucky, if not set aside a few hours and
get ready to exercise some back muscles and some words not found in Webster's book.
I couldn't take mine out of the engine bay for a 1997. The hardest part was putting it back in. Ended up loosening the cap journal and it slid right in. By the way, cap over the CAS journal is 10 ft-pounds after forum search. They seemed tighter than that when loosening, so I put a little loctite
Dude, thanks for making this video. It helped a part-timer like me do something I could have never figured out on my own.
Thank Jim! Share it with your other miata mates :)
motoforlyfe is there any more leaks after replacing the oring?
Mine leaked on my heater hose and caused one to fail, so I had both heater hoses off. It definitely gives you more access and another angle to turn a wrench on that hard to reach bolt. Word to the wise: use a 12mm socket and swiveling ratchet to loosen that bolt, then use a wrench or your fingers the rest of the way. The ratchet and socket will become wedged against the firewall as the bolt unscrews. Also use oil or vasiline on the o-ring to help it go back in.
Good job budd! your videos are getting better and better!
Much appreciated. You show me how to rotate the CAS. I am novice.
저 같은 초보자에게 CAS 조정 방법을 보여 주셔서 대단히 감사합니다.
Good video - very clear and easy to follow.
Thank you very much for this, bro. Much appreciated
Do you need to jumper any of the connectors to set the timing in the diagnostic port?
How often do they need to be replaced?
Good job again mate - nicely explained :)
MalcOfLincoln Thanks Malc, I appreciate it!
You're welcome. I mean it. Many many years ago we only had magazines. They either told you in detail, but only part of it, or skipped through missing much info....sure you get the picture :)
good idea, I need a o ring set too.
Timothy Fink You never know when you'll need one!
Does it Leak???
Nice vid, from experience removing the mount in front of the CAS means you do not need to fiddle with a mirror. I made the same mistake
Thanks for the tip!
Yeah, notice how he left out the part about finessing the sensor outa there? It’s a bear to take out.. 🤦🏽♀️🙄
I couldn't take mine out, 1997. Changed the o-ring anyway.
5:42 "de-installation" what in the fuck....?
What year Miata is this?
it’s a 1.8 engine so it would be anywhere from 94-97 (: