This just became my favourite vid you've done LPL. Have always wondered how long it takes to reassemble a lock after gutting it, and what sorts of potential issues you might face. I'm sure it would be more difficult for ordinary mortals, but I'm delighted to learn that you also forget stuff that you saw only moments before. I'm hoping this suggests that the aluminium in the atmosphere from geoengineering perhaps not yet begun to give me Alzheimer's. It could of course mean you've got it too, but I'm hoping the former is the case :)) Excellent instruction and advice. Cheers.
Albert Lebel it’s just price point adjustment. The 6 pin jobs sell for more but it costs so little to drill a hole that they do them all that way and just sell them without pins fitted.
This lock looks nice and I would use it. I would definitely rekey to a 6 pin and add security pins without thinking twice. My local locksmith has even cut me 6 pin keys in a way I don't have to change the existing 5 key pins.
I love this lock... I use similar locks for all of my lock-up applications. The padlock tail-pieces have the letters "S" & "P" stamped on them... "S" denotes a standard (non-Primus/Everest) cylinder... and "P" denotes the Primus/Everest cylinder options, for which the retention pin for the tail-cap is on the 2-o'clock position versus the standard cylinders, of which has the same retention pin placed on the 10-o'clock position. Stock Obverse Keyway Family "C" Section cylinders are always pinned up for a 5-pin key, as residential keys are also 5-pin.
That lock is awesome! Nice Picking as always, I have learned so much from you videos with spping. I’m slowly getting better and better. I have yet to pick the smart key though and have watched your video at least 10 times now.. Thank for sharing
Great picking. Nice looking lock. Nice beefing up of the padlock. I did something similar to that with a Centurion 65mm padlock. It is almost impossible to pick now because of the excessive play in the core. The cylinder moves so much, you loose tension wrenches, and setting spools is a very difficult task. I threaded the core and bible and put in security pins. The only way I can pick it now is to put the core in a vise.
To me at least, one of the top 5 videos you have made. Absolutely love the improvement part. Did the improvement video for the Kasp 19070X Padlock (CEN 6), episode #200, ever get made? There was mention of an MT5+ core already installed and the need to find an excuse to show it off... I think the word "extraordinary" was used to describe the LPL version of that Kasp. Not only do I have an academic interest but I think that modified padlock would be perfect for an application I have in mind. I might even need three of them keyed alike...
Schlage Obverse family "C" Keyway cylinders - factory keyed stock locks are always keyed 5-pin; and Schlage stock cylinder specifications don't typically use spool or serrated driver-pins.
If you don't have the time or parts to do this yourself, you can have a core keyed at any locksmith and have it pinned to match your house keys if they are compatible. My locksmith offered to do this for me free with the purchase of the lock.
Lock makers have to keep up with change but really the core puller is just a improved version on the old slide hammer they both do the same thing rip the core out..
Cheapest way against core pulling could be some steel band, which goes around the lock through the shackle. It could cover most of the core, since the key turns just 90 degrees.
I have this same lock fitted with a best sfic 6 pin core, but is it the same model that will accept regular cylinders with that core filler cap or strictly sfic cores only? There is a blank screw hole on top & I have no control key to remove core though.
There's a simple way to screw the core back together, take that tail piece and use it to depress the plunger and screw the holder in to place til it's snug, back it off a quarter turn and spin the tail piece to the proper location releasing the plunger. You may have to adjust how it fits but it's way faster.
The fact that the contents of that core having zero security pins further solidifies the fact that so many lock companies spend so much time making an impressive looking lock with alot of nice features but for some reason they fail on the pins.
Thanks for the education. Did you back off a little when you screwed the cap back on so the lock wouldn't bind? I'm guessing if you filled all six you would have had to make another key?
Where do you even get Schlage Primus cylinders and whatnot? Am I just not looking on the right websites or something? From what I've seen on many other videos, they seem to be quite a lot more secure on account of the sidebar, but I can't even find websites or dealers for them.
Which is the better shackle material? molybdenum or boron Carbon steel. I know both will rust but molybdenum is better for resisting corrosion. But what about sawing and bolt cutters. Thanks
I would have put a long key pin in position 6 to rest on the key tip, and then used a standard driver pin in that place allowing all the other five drivers to be spools. This keeps alignment for the full insertion and withdrawal of the key, and adds a bit more pick resistance with another spool, especially if you can use a very slightly thinner (or slightly tapered) driver pin that tends to fall down every time you go to set one of the spools. Try it.
I would love to know where you got this lock. I would love to have one myself so I can re-pin it too and use it to secure things since it is a good one.
Different springs is an effective way to stop bump keys from working. However in the real world (where we worry about actual criminals) you worry about the physical side of things, as picking/bumping with criminal intent is relatively unheard of.
I didn't realize that the Molybdenum alloy shackles were that much harder to cut than Boron alloy shackles. Chromoly is something I hear of regularly, while Boron alloys aren't something I'd heard of before, so I'd expected the Boron alloys to be stronger (when I guess they're cheaper instead).
Interestingly, boron alloys were rarely used until WWII when we needed a cheap molybdenum substitute for transmission gears... it caught on after that as “good enough” because molybdenum was expensive.
LockPickingLawyer why didn't you populate the sixth chamber when you repined the lock for the "upgrade"? Couldn't you just ride a key pin off the tip of the exsisting key and add a driver security pin of your choosing??? What was the rationale behind not populating the sixth chamber?
Aaron Anderson Good disc detainer locks, like Abloy and Abus, are hard to pick without proper tool. That tool itself is cheap, no problem to get it, but I think few thieves have it. Some skill is required to pick a good disc detainer, brute force is easier, and often there are other weak points than the lock itself. Main advantage of a disc detainer lock is, that there aren't any super fast non-destructive ways to open it, like raking and bumping for poor wafer locks.
I have a few questions. 1- Why would I buy a lock like this one only to replace the core instead of getting one that already has a good core? 2- could you please name a few companies that produce good quality cores? Thanks
Would the key on hand be able to utilize it? I'm a complete n00b at locks and keys, just curious. Would some key pin and driver pin combination have been able to rest on the tip of the key?
Yes, you can make a pin ride the tip of the key. I've done it. It isn't entirely optimal, as you have to make absolutely sure the key is bottomed out or it won't turn. Also, riding on the tip is nearly a max cut, so the driver pin only have to lift a tiny amount which obviously negates most security features.
id love to know the reason all these lock companies don't fill that last chamber. they go through the work of drilling it and everything but don't pin it up? what is this conspiracy!? there has to be a reason besides saving fractions of a penny..otherwise why drill the hole? maybe there's a popular automated machinery that pins up these locks but only can do 5 pins at a time?
So they can have one assembly line, but two products... they charge more for the six pin version. Look at American Lock’s catalogue for an example of that.
but the practice is so widespread, im pretty sure ive seen many models where i dont think there was a 6 pin version that was more money..its a conspiracy, i tell you!
utUBEr00001 in the previous video he used a core puller to pull the core out of a padlock. It was a powerful little thing and very quiet. Since it is designed to do exactly that I’ve every confidence that it would rip this one out too.
utUBEr00001 similar MO, but the core puller uses a large diameter, fine pitch screw instead of a sliding weight. As a result it’s very compact and nearly silent. Good kit.
my patented (spiral snail core) will blow schlage, medico, master, best, etc.....out of the picture. in fact, all picking attempts in ALL locks by ANY locksmiths will soon be a thing of the past. this design will be out in the next few months.
![[483] Master Lock Pro Series 6852 Picked, Improved, and Repicked](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P4QzMdVOaK8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[483] Master Lock Pro Series 6852 Picked, Improved, and Repicked](/img/tr.png)
![[653] Prototype Dual Fork Bowley Padlock (Model 543)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D6vioIPVzM4/mqdefault.jpg)
![[706] The Naughty Bucket Chronicles - Squire Stronghold SS65CS Picked (R1 Keyway)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZXbjNq2OqD0/mqdefault.jpg)
![[柴犬ASMR]曼玉Manyu&小白Bai 毛发护理Spa asmr](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0TsXQ7z2Dh4/mqdefault.jpg)
![[302] Avocet ABS Cylinder (Pin-in-Pin, Magnetic Pins, 6 Trap Pins!) Picked and Gutted](/img/n.gif)
A highly intelligent, extremely talented hobby tech with a very soothing voice. What more could one want? Thank you LPL!
Thanks. 👍
Bob Ross of lock picking. lol
His fingers are annoying though.
Thanks for taking the time to show us how to put it back together.
Why is this so pleasing to watch?? Nice work, Brother. And, it was nice that you defeated the lock, reassembled & made it better.
This just became my favourite vid you've done LPL. Have always wondered how long it takes to reassemble a lock after gutting it, and what sorts of potential issues you might face. I'm sure it would be more difficult for ordinary mortals, but I'm delighted to learn that you also forget stuff that you saw only moments before. I'm hoping this suggests that the aluminium in the atmosphere from geoengineering perhaps not yet begun to give me Alzheimer's. It could of course mean you've got it too, but I'm hoping the former is the case :)) Excellent instruction and advice. Cheers.
Great work. I would definitely occupy all six pin holes in the future. I still don't understand why they don't. the cost is so minimal.
Albert Lebel it’s just price point adjustment. The 6 pin jobs sell for more but it costs so little to drill a hole that they do them all that way and just sell them without pins fitted.
Agreed, but I was too lazy to get the pinning kit from my car. ☹️
This lock looks nice and I would use it. I would definitely rekey to a 6 pin and add security pins without thinking twice.
My local locksmith has even cut me 6 pin keys in a way I don't have to change the existing 5 key pins.
Good video on several levels.
First time I have seen you put a lock back together, made short work of that!
I love this lock... I use similar locks for all of my lock-up applications.
The padlock tail-pieces have the letters "S" & "P" stamped on them... "S" denotes a standard (non-Primus/Everest) cylinder... and "P" denotes the Primus/Everest cylinder options, for which the retention pin for the tail-cap is on the 2-o'clock position versus the standard cylinders, of which has the same retention pin placed on the 10-o'clock position.
Stock Obverse Keyway Family "C" Section cylinders are always pinned up for a 5-pin key, as residential keys are also 5-pin.
That's quite a meaty lock. Thanks for the rekeying tips, I would'nt have thought to add 1 standard pin.
Enjoyed this one, love when you share your ... knowledge with us.
That lock is awesome! Nice Picking as always, I have learned so much from you videos with spping. I’m slowly getting better and better. I have yet to pick the smart key though and have watched your video at least 10 times now..
Thank for sharing
I enjoy these longer improvement type videos
I really enjoyed this presentation.
Thank you, Sir.
Nice. Lots of instructive moments.
Great job picking brother as always. Definitely much improved after your efforts fixing it up. Thanks for the review!
It seems like a pretty good lock. A tough shackle, sturdy lock body, and the ability to replace the core with anything that'll fit in it.
Great picking. Nice looking lock. Nice beefing up of the padlock. I did something similar to that with a Centurion 65mm padlock. It is almost impossible to pick now because of the excessive play in the core. The cylinder moves so much, you loose tension wrenches, and setting spools is a very difficult task. I threaded the core and bible and put in security pins. The only way I can pick it now is to put the core in a vise.
How did you get the core apart? Mine was held with a blind pin.
Nice to see you put one back together again, I always wondered if you improved the locks at all.
Very nice lpl and very well explained thanks so much for the great video 🌟⭐🌟🌟⭐😎
Well done and enjoyed the improvement pick to..
I learned a lot from this one!
I’d like the train of thought on the reassembly as much as the picking
To me at least, one of the top 5 videos you have made. Absolutely love the improvement part.
Did the improvement video for the Kasp 19070X Padlock (CEN 6), episode #200, ever get made? There was mention of an MT5+ core already installed and the need to find an excuse to show it off... I think the word "extraordinary" was used to describe the LPL version of that Kasp. Not only do I have an academic interest but I think that modified padlock would be perfect for an application I have in mind. I might even need three of them keyed alike...
Yup... there’s an MT5+ in the lock now. 👍
Cool... But do we get to see it? Please...
Schlage Obverse family "C" Keyway cylinders - factory keyed stock locks are always keyed 5-pin; and Schlage stock cylinder specifications don't typically use spool or serrated driver-pins.
Thanks mate...
Nice video
If you don't have the time or parts to do this yourself, you can have a core keyed at any locksmith and have it pinned to match your house keys if they are compatible. My locksmith offered to do this for me free with the purchase of the lock.
nice pick. thanks for sharing
Nice looking lock I like the full size key... I feel the Core Puller would kill it fast as not a lot of threaded screw holding in the core...
Jolly Peanut I get the feeling that the core puller has not been considered in the design of most locks.
Lock makers have to keep up with change but really the core puller is just a improved version on the old slide hammer they both do the same thing rip the core out..
Cheapest way against core pulling could be some steel band, which goes around the lock through the shackle. It could cover most of the core, since the key turns just 90 degrees.
good idea..
I have this same lock fitted with a best sfic 6 pin core, but is it the same model that will accept regular cylinders with that core filler cap or strictly sfic cores only? There is a blank screw hole on top & I have no control key to remove core though.
Great job and info about this padlock. A shame you didn't populate the sixth chamber while you were inside.
There's a simple way to screw the core back together, take that tail piece and use it to depress the plunger and screw the holder in to place til it's snug, back it off a quarter turn and spin the tail piece to the proper location releasing the plunger. You may have to adjust how it fits but it's way faster.
I love it dude!
How hard do you tension the keyhole when you pick? Just lightly or ?
Nice pick. Nice lock, especially after you improved it
That is one boss set up
Great video, I thought for sure you would have filled the 6 pin as it is a point that you point out every time you see it. Be safe and take care...
That requires you get 6 pin keys as well, so it’s a bit more effort and cost.
Are there any round-body locks that take a standard euro profile cylinder?
The fact that the contents of that core having zero security pins further solidifies the fact that so many lock companies spend so much time making an impressive looking lock with alot of nice features but for some reason they fail on the pins.
Thanks for the education. Did you back off a little when you screwed the cap back on so the lock wouldn't bind? I'm guessing if you filled all six you would have had to make another key?
Yup... tighten it down, then back off two notches.
Where do you even get Schlage Primus cylinders and whatnot? Am I just not looking on the right websites or something? From what I've seen on many other videos, they seem to be quite a lot more secure on account of the sidebar, but I can't even find websites or dealers for them.
eBay?
Did I get it right?
Molybdenum is tougher than Boron Alloy?
You should get the lab cylinder cap removal tool to take the tailpiece off easier. Saw one on ebay for $35.
Sparrows offer them in resin too for something like $3. The problem is that they don't work when there is an actuator in the core like here.
+macavity
The good ones simply "ignore" the tailpiece
I have one... but the padlock driver is in the way, as other pointed out. 👍
nice job
Which is the better shackle material? molybdenum or boron Carbon steel. I know both will rust but molybdenum is better for resisting corrosion. But what about sawing and bolt cutters. Thanks
So what's great about this lock is that you can.... completely rebuild it to be awesomely better
Show does this compare to the ks72 Schlegel is it literally the same lock just branded differently?
Exact same.
I would have put a long key pin in position 6 to rest on the key tip, and then used a standard driver pin in that place allowing all the other five drivers to be spools. This keeps alignment for the full insertion and withdrawal of the key, and adds a bit more pick resistance with another spool, especially if you can use a very slightly thinner (or slightly tapered) driver pin that tends to fall down every time you go to set one of the spools. Try it.
I’ve done it... but the pinning kit was in the car... and it’s cold. ☺️
I would love to know where you got this lock. I would love to have one myself so I can re-pin it too and use it to secure things since it is a good one.
eBay... a long time ago.
Where'd you get those spool pins?
🍎 📷 👌
Does changing the springs to different tensions be an improvement? I liked this video as you show how to improved the lock.
Different springs is an effective way to stop bump keys from working. However in the real world (where we worry about actual criminals) you worry about the physical side of things, as picking/bumping with criminal intent is relatively unheard of.
For me, I don’t find different springs particularly challenging... unless you have a gorilla spring, like the ilco bump halt system.
nice
I didn't realize that the Molybdenum alloy shackles were that much harder to cut than Boron alloy shackles. Chromoly is something I hear of regularly, while Boron alloys aren't something I'd heard of before, so I'd expected the Boron alloys to be stronger (when I guess they're cheaper instead).
Interestingly, boron alloys were rarely used until WWII when we needed a cheap molybdenum substitute for transmission gears... it caught on after that as “good enough” because molybdenum was expensive.
whats that pry bar thickness in mm?
LockPickingLawyer why didn't you populate the sixth chamber when you repined the lock for the "upgrade"? Couldn't you just ride a key pin off the tip of the exsisting key and add a driver security pin of your choosing??? What was the rationale behind not populating the sixth chamber?
I have a very good reason. My pinning kit was in the car, it was 2am and freezing... ☺️
is there a household lock and or padlock that isn't dead simple to pick?
Aaron Anderson Good disc detainer locks, like Abloy and Abus, are hard to pick without proper tool. That tool itself is cheap, no problem to get it, but I think few thieves have it. Some skill is required to pick a good disc detainer, brute force is easier, and often there are other weak points than the lock itself.
Main advantage of a disc detainer lock is, that there aren't any super fast non-destructive ways to open it, like raking and bumping for poor wafer locks.
It would be nice if you could try to beat a Schlage Primus high security lock with a mildly tricky keyway!!
5:02 key information why he doesn’t use a spool in every pin position.
I have a few questions. 1- Why would I buy a lock like this one only to replace the core instead of getting one that already has a good core? 2- could you please name a few companies that produce good quality cores?
Thanks
LPL takes a minute and a half to pick. So that would probably equal about a MONTH and a half, for me!!!
Why don’t the use those spools? Is it that more expencive???
Marginally more expensive... to tell the truth, I’m not sure why we don’t see more. 🤷🏻♂️
serious but tangential question: what branch of law do you practice?
Corporate governance litigation, with a side dish of insurance coverage for D&O policies.
thanks!
Would an Abus 888 core from an 83 series lock drop in that lock?
No idea about size, but the Driver is wrong.
Questions or comments?... will you sell or trade it? Nice double pick with repinning.🍺😎✌
Nope... sorry, but these are hard to find. ☹️
LockPickingLawyer I understand... I wouldn't let it go either.😎👍🏽
Any ideas on where to find one for sale? I made a cursory search online and didn't really see one from a reputable place. Thanks, in advance.
U just messed me up whisky tango foxtrot
Where can I find this pry bar ?
It’s Peterson’s toothless prybar, which I bent.
WHAT LOCK CAN'T YOU OPEN?
I think that's a genuine Schlage cylinder. The Schlage compatible cylinder don't seem to be quite as nice
will this accept a kwikset core?
The old ones.
I’m not aware of a Kwikset in Schlage format kik Cylinder.
So I didn't see, but I assume it was only a 5 pin bible, so you couldn't easily take advantage of the 6 pin core if you wanted to?
It is also a 6 pin bible. Completely standard Schlage KIK cylinder. They just only populate 5 slots on the cheaper models.
Would the key on hand be able to utilize it? I'm a complete n00b at locks and keys, just curious. Would some key pin and driver pin combination have been able to rest on the tip of the key?
Yes, you can make a pin ride the tip of the key. I've done it. It isn't entirely optimal, as you have to make absolutely sure the key is bottomed out or it won't turn. Also, riding on the tip is nearly a max cut, so the driver pin only have to lift a tiny amount which obviously negates most security features.
Slide hammer will pull that core without any effort, best you can do is install a cyberlock core.
Maybe... probably.
I tend to break more screws with slide hammer than this FWIW. Also this is small and quiet. I’m going to try and use this more.
can someone spell out the makes and model he goes over at 1:02 ???
911LexVegas Lockwood 301, Paclock 900 kick (Pacific lock company). that's what he said anyway.
Slight correction: 900KIK (key in knob)
LockPickingLawyer Damn. my bad... I should have made sure auto correct didn't mess with my comment before posting...
id love to know the reason all these lock companies don't fill that last chamber. they go through the work of drilling it and everything but don't pin it up? what is this conspiracy!? there has to be a reason besides saving fractions of a penny..otherwise why drill the hole? maybe there's a popular automated machinery that pins up these locks but only can do 5 pins at a time?
So they can have one assembly line, but two products... they charge more for the six pin version. Look at American Lock’s catalogue for an example of that.
but the practice is so widespread, im pretty sure ive seen many models where i dont think there was a 6 pin version that was more money..its a conspiracy, i tell you!
The cylinder itself seems awfully exposed.
do the pull test please
utUBEr00001 in the previous video he used a core puller to pull the core out of a padlock. It was a powerful little thing and very quiet. Since it is designed to do exactly that I’ve every confidence that it would rip this one out too.
utUBEr00001 similar MO, but the core puller uses a large diameter, fine pitch screw instead of a sliding weight. As a result it’s very compact and nearly silent. Good kit.
utUBEr00001 True, it’s much the same thing.
Ya see now
Me: try fixing a lock
Nahh let me pick it first
1 hr. later: shame on me
Try raking it. The biting doesnt look to great.
Lock weakness: CORE PULLER:(
Probably.
You should do a video, in which you attempt to pull the core out with the puller
my patented (spiral snail core) will blow schlage, medico, master, best, etc.....out of the picture. in fact, all picking attempts in ALL locks by ANY locksmiths will soon be a thing of the past. this design will be out in the next few months.
So, Frank. Got links to this core then?
@@vizulies no...
@@vizulies NO......WHY WOULD I GIVE THIS TO YOU IF I DESIGNED IT ?........
are you jewish