I have a 2004 V70 AWD 2.5T and follow everything you have done to your car. You have been a great help in my decision making on what I can do myself and what I should probably leave to my mechanic. This is a job I would not attempt. I was going to have it done (even bought the bushes), as a preventive measure. Howerver, my baby is not showing any of the symptoms you experienced, so I decided to put it off for a while (only 136,000 miles on it). Frankly, I was surprised to see the rubber portions of the bushes were still in fairly good condition. It is not just the mileage that kills rubber parts - aging will do it too (which was my concern). As far as the rest of the suspension goes, I have replaced just about everything else (including upgrading to "T5" sway bars when I had those bushings done). I think you would have to drive a stake through the engine block to kill one of these things.
I think nearly everything I’ve touched I’ve made slightly worse. I’ve had a few people mention the driveshaft bolts and subframe bolts might be stretch bolts so I may have just been doing it wrong all this time. I’m glad the videos help genuine owners and hope you’ve saved some time and money on the jobs you have tackled. I still have no idea how the bush has got damaged the way it was. Rubbers we’re absolutely fine I’d say.
Greats vid dude... I would say on this one you made your job a lot more difficult by adding the inserts before you tried to install them, you should have done the inserts afterward, the inserts are design to reduce the flex and that exactly what prevented you getting them in.. The knock effect is that the volvo bushes then weren't seated properly hence the knocking. Only way to fix that is to remove them all, take out the inserts, refit, DON'T put the inserts in, go for a drive, then pop the caps off and insert the powerflex when it's settled!
Thanks for watching and appreciate the feedback. The knocking appears to be coming from the rack, so it looks like my second hand rack has failed the same as the original one did 🤷🏻♂️
The right front and rear as well as the left front are identical. The left rear is different and has an oval tube (this is original) The left front fits snugly over the locating tube and puts the frame in the right place, and the left rear with the oval tube fits snugly over the locating tube on the narrow part of the oval side (long oval side in the direction of travel) and it adjusts the frame to sit straight. Fit and tighten the left front first, then the left rear and then the right fron and rear (which does not have locating tubes and just sits where they are) This puts the frame in the correct aligned position.
I would think they are not original bushings. And if they are, then the dealer must have been lazy and just sold you four identical ones (no. 3507923) I don't think you can buy unoriginal ones with an oval tube. Left rear bushing with oval tube has no. 3507924 no.8678497 that you refer to in your title text, are the front bushings on S60 - V70 and S80 2.4T diesel as well as most XC90. I don't have one myself, so I don't know exactly what the difference is, but I would think they are reinforced.
Some thoughts. The poweflex bushes may have stiffened up the bushes significantly, and so possibly engine movement which would have been absorbed by them may now be causing movement and hence noise elsewhere. Perhaps remove them and see if your other noises go away? Could you have pushed the bushes home with a bottle jack which would have a similar action to the brake puller you used at the end ? The inner CV joints are only held together by the rubber boot and if pulled too far, the balls may fall out of place and can then cause a knocking noise (I ruined a driveshaft by not realising this). Listening again, it does very much sound like this. Thanks for taking the time to video and share this. How about a Gofundme for an impact wrench ?
The stiffer bushes probably are transmitting more vibrations, I don’t think they’ll have created any new knocks but they probably would transmit the noise better. Against my advice a friend tried using a bottle jack and it did nothing, the bushes need to be clamped uniformly and it’s tonnes of pressure we need (the car doesn’t weigh enough). I have actually smashed a driveshaft while changing a collapsed strut and bottom arms a while back as you say but it was the inner joint. I hope the video does help people, it was an absolute nightmare and took hours on top of the job but it’s a genuine representation of the job being done pretty much at home. I do have an impact gun I just don’t use it in the videos because of the noise and also in this case there wasn’t enough room under the car.
Hi This is the specs on fcp euro site. That is seriously tight. I would suggest 4 new bolts and a torque wrench and then a long power bar. Tightening torque 105 Nm + 120°. Replace every time the subframe is loosened.
£6 each those bolts, I’d want to be certain that’s the issue before buying. The knocking actually appears to be from the rack I fitted so it seems this second hand rack has failed the same as the original one did.
You can try adding Powerflex bushings to the front control arms, at least the rear perpendicular bushing, black series. Mine are new but rubber and have much play
I'm so confused why I found one that was also oval in the middle, the 3 others were round. Mine were completely cracked all the way around from age, its a 2001 T5 with only 200K kilometers. I bought the beige power delrin bushings and I can't wait to fit them.
Another CZcamsr has a video on an alternative method to get those bushes out. Basically you drill through the plastic outer edge of the bush, and then with a big screwdriver you can collapse the whole bush and pry it out. I tried this at a scrapyard the other day and it actually works very well: czcams.com/video/j9crInyMGhk/video.html I've done this job twice, first on a 850, later on a 2004 V70. On the 850 I just got them out with loads of prying, swearing and elbow grease, but on the V70 I actually made a cutting tool, much like the official Volvo tool, that cuts the center rubber part out of the bushing, and then it's easy to collapse the housing and remove it. I would not want to drop the subframe that much, unless you disconnected things like the steering shaft and upper engine bracket. Also only do bush at a time so the alignment of the subframe does not get messed up.
I did drill on two of the bushes but it didn’t make much difference at all. The body of the car has locators on 2 of the bushes so you don’t need to worry about alignment of the subframe. I would still always get wheel alignment done after any jobs on suspension.
@@MementoMori-xx5qo I've replaced 6 bushes so far (two on a 850, all four on a V70) and fitting the new ones was by far easier than removing them. I used an extra long bolt with a piece of steel plate to press them in. Between the plate and bushing I used a few nuts so the forces act upon the ridge, not the rubber protrusions. You also need something of spacer between the body and subframe for a bit of room for the top of the bushing.
An independent garage would probably charge £60 an hour minimum and this would probably be 4-6 hours done in a garage with the right equipment if I had to guess.
Another channel had found an oval centre in a bushing, but sadly didn't comment on it: czcams.com/video/lEJejOaqa0c/video.html Then I found this video, where it looks like the oval bushing may be standard fit: czcams.com/video/eGEfWjxISyE/video.html Indeed I found an original Volvo document that confirms the front left bushing is slightly oval as standard.
What a weird (and bloody uncomfortable!) place to keep your mutt (sorry, dog!) I thought all us responsible (?) estate car owners had room for animals at the back? As always, good video Tolly.
I have a 2004 V70 AWD 2.5T and follow everything you have done to your car. You have been a great help in my decision making on what I can do myself and what I should probably leave to my mechanic. This is a job I would not attempt. I was going to have it done (even bought the bushes), as a preventive measure. Howerver, my baby is not showing any of the symptoms you experienced, so I decided to put it off for a while (only 136,000 miles on it). Frankly, I was surprised to see the rubber portions of the bushes were still in fairly good condition. It is not just the mileage that kills rubber parts - aging will do it too (which was my concern). As far as the rest of the suspension goes, I have replaced just about everything else (including upgrading to "T5" sway bars when I had those bushings done). I think you would have to drive a stake through the engine block to kill one of these things.
I think nearly everything I’ve touched I’ve made slightly worse. I’ve had a few people mention the driveshaft bolts and subframe bolts might be stretch bolts so I may have just been doing it wrong all this time. I’m glad the videos help genuine owners and hope you’ve saved some time and money on the jobs you have tackled. I still have no idea how the bush has got damaged the way it was. Rubbers we’re absolutely fine I’d say.
@@IAMASPANNER yes you HAVE TO REPLACE
Great video, thanks for sharing the struggles and troubleshooting parts as well.
It became impossible not to share the bad bits and I didn’t want to make anyone believe it was easier than it is. Thanks for the feedback!
Greats vid dude... I would say on this one you made your job a lot more difficult by adding the inserts before you tried to install them, you should have done the inserts afterward, the inserts are design to reduce the flex and that exactly what prevented you getting them in.. The knock effect is that the volvo bushes then weren't seated properly hence the knocking. Only way to fix that is to remove them all, take out the inserts, refit, DON'T put the inserts in, go for a drive, then pop the caps off and insert the powerflex when it's settled!
Thanks for watching and appreciate the feedback. The knocking appears to be coming from the rack, so it looks like my second hand rack has failed the same as the original one did 🤷🏻♂️
The right front and rear as well as the left front are identical.
The left rear is different and has an oval tube (this is original)
The left front fits snugly over the locating tube and puts the frame in the right place, and the left rear with the oval tube fits snugly over the locating tube on the narrow part of the oval side (long oval side in the direction of travel) and it adjusts the frame to sit straight.
Fit and tighten the left front first, then the left rear and then the right fron and rear (which does not have locating tubes and just sits where they are)
This puts the frame in the correct aligned position.
If this is the case then why are all the new bushes circular?
I would think they are not original bushings.
And if they are, then the dealer must have been lazy and just sold you four identical ones (no. 3507923)
I don't think you can buy unoriginal ones with an oval tube.
Left rear bushing with oval tube has no. 3507924
no.8678497 that you refer to in your title text, are the front bushings on S60 - V70 and S80 2.4T diesel as well as most XC90.
I don't have one myself, so I don't know exactly what the difference is, but I would think they are reinforced.
@@jankleffel5819 Volvo dealer confirmed to me the Oval bush is discontinued, all are circulate now.
@@MementoMori-xx5qough whyyy?
Some thoughts. The poweflex bushes may have stiffened up the bushes significantly, and so possibly engine movement which would have been absorbed by them may now be causing movement and hence noise elsewhere. Perhaps remove them and see if your other noises go away? Could you have pushed the bushes home with a bottle jack which would have a similar action to the brake puller you used at the end ? The inner CV joints are only held together by the rubber boot and if pulled too far, the balls may fall out of place and can then cause a knocking noise (I ruined a driveshaft by not realising this). Listening again, it does very much sound like this. Thanks for taking the time to video and share this. How about a Gofundme for an impact wrench ?
The stiffer bushes probably are transmitting more vibrations, I don’t think they’ll have created any new knocks but they probably would transmit the noise better. Against my advice a friend tried using a bottle jack and it did nothing, the bushes need to be clamped uniformly and it’s tonnes of pressure we need (the car doesn’t weigh enough). I have actually smashed a driveshaft while changing a collapsed strut and bottom arms a while back as you say but it was the inner joint. I hope the video does help people, it was an absolute nightmare and took hours on top of the job but it’s a genuine representation of the job being done pretty much at home. I do have an impact gun I just don’t use it in the videos because of the noise and also in this case there wasn’t enough room under the car.
@@IAMASPANNER Just to confirm, I also thought it is likely the inner joint.
Hi
This is the specs on fcp euro site. That is seriously tight. I would suggest 4 new bolts and a torque wrench and then a long power bar. Tightening torque 105 Nm + 120°. Replace every time the subframe is loosened.
£6 each those bolts, I’d want to be certain that’s the issue before buying. The knocking actually appears to be from the rack I fitted so it seems this second hand rack has failed the same as the original one did.
Nice video. easy to follow. I got this job coming up on my S60t5
Thanks for the feedback and good luck with the job!
You can try adding Powerflex bushings to the front control arms, at least the rear perpendicular bushing, black series. Mine are new but rubber and have much play
if you hang the engine and remove the sub frame its a breeze to knock out and hammer the new ones in.
I'm so confused why I found one that was also oval in the middle, the 3 others were round. Mine were completely cracked all the way around from age, its a 2001 T5 with only 200K kilometers. I bought the beige power delrin bushings and I can't wait to fit them.
dogo is just chillin
Hello, did you find out where the knocking came from?
Did you figure out what the knocking was related to?
I think it’s the steering rack has either failed again or the inner rods.
I wonder if you could investigate the reason for the noise by turning the Steering wheel, if it hasnt been the bushes
I now believe the issue is play in the rack
Another CZcamsr has a video on an alternative method to get those bushes out. Basically you drill through the plastic outer edge of the bush, and then with a big screwdriver you can collapse the whole bush and pry it out. I tried this at a scrapyard the other day and it actually works very well: czcams.com/video/j9crInyMGhk/video.html
I've done this job twice, first on a 850, later on a 2004 V70. On the 850 I just got them out with loads of prying, swearing and elbow grease, but on the V70 I actually made a cutting tool, much like the official Volvo tool, that cuts the center rubber part out of the bushing, and then it's easy to collapse the housing and remove it.
I would not want to drop the subframe that much, unless you disconnected things like the steering shaft and upper engine bracket. Also only do bush at a time so the alignment of the subframe does not get messed up.
I did drill on two of the bushes but it didn’t make much difference at all. The body of the car has locators on 2 of the bushes so you don’t need to worry about alignment of the subframe. I would still always get wheel alignment done after any jobs on suspension.
So much easier to remove, but fitting the new one is impossible
@@MementoMori-xx5qo I've replaced 6 bushes so far (two on a 850, all four on a V70) and fitting the new ones was by far easier than removing them. I used an extra long bolt with a piece of steel plate to press them in. Between the plate and bushing I used a few nuts so the forces act upon the ridge, not the rubber protrusions. You also need something of spacer between the body and subframe for a bit of room for the top of the bushing.
If you drill the plastic and pry the bushings out, it takes only a couple minutes 😊
I did drill a couple of them and they were still stubborn. I didn’t want to damage the subframe for the sake of it and open it up to possible rust.
Can you link the bushing puller please?
What press kit did you use?? Looks pretty convenient in that space!
It’s just a bearing puller kit that luckily enough could be made to work on this job.
That looks like a pretty hairy job!
I asked my local Volvo dealer how much they would charge for this job….
They wanted 12000:- Swedish crownes (about 888 £ ) 😮
Wow that does sound a bit excessive!
Safety issue !! At 40:28 , do not use screwdriver as pin in jack stand! Use proper pins!
Air tools would have made things easier!!
i swear i would of drank a bottle of jack to just deal with all of the bullshit.i'm about to do the whole front suspension.fuckkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk me
What would you pay in a garage to have this work carried out?
An independent garage would probably charge £60 an hour minimum and this would probably be 4-6 hours done in a garage with the right equipment if I had to guess.
Here in Sweden my local Volvo dealer wanted 888 £ for the job ...Just crazy
might be just easier to fit a good secondhand sub frame
@@andywarrington4738 No point, regardless of mileage the rubber will have degraded through age.
Another channel had found an oval centre in a bushing, but sadly didn't comment on it: czcams.com/video/lEJejOaqa0c/video.html
Then I found this video, where it looks like the oval bushing may be standard fit: czcams.com/video/eGEfWjxISyE/video.html
Indeed I found an original Volvo document that confirms the front left bushing is slightly oval as standard.
I’ve just ordered four new bushings from my Volvo dealer, and they confirmed that the old style Oval shape are superseded. All 4 are now circular
@@MementoMori-xx5qo Good to know.
What a weird (and bloody uncomfortable!) place to keep your mutt (sorry, dog!) I thought all us responsible (?) estate car owners had room for animals at the back? As always, good video Tolly.
The dog seems quite comfortable there...
@@johnnyblue4799 seems like the dog likes it there
@@piovo5222 Isn't that what I said?
@@johnnyblue4799 replied to wrong person it was meant for Pete
🤦🏼♂️ there is always someone. What a weird comment.