This is great! Based on this and the video to repair the tonearm, our old Dual1214 is up and running!!! All the best, keep up the amazing work and interesting videos!!! :)
I have an actual Dual all-in-one from 1971. It originally had a Dual 1214 but for now, has a Dual 1225. Mine was imported from Germany and is a dual-voltage model. Mine is an entry-level version that has a Ceramic phono input, but upper range models had a magnetic phono input.
I really enjoyed watching your videos. I recently picked up a Dual 1229 that seems to be working properly. It sounds incredible. I have a B&O TX2 that recently started to act up. Rather than take it in for servicing, which I never have, I came across the 1229 while shopping for records. I feel I got real lucky with this find. Sounds way better than the B&O. The guy at the record store sent me home with it to try for a week. No questions asked, no money down just a handshake. This guy is a class act. Having trust in his fellow man. I truly feel he knows he is giving me a sweet deal. I'm heading back this weekend to pay for it at his asking price of $240. My question for you is when should I take this in for service. Do I wait for something to fail, or just get it cleaned properly and start fresh? Also, what can one expect to pay just for maintenance service. I watched your full 1229 overhaul video and you are very talented. I'm afraid I will screw this up if I attempt to perform this service, so I best leave it to the professionals. Thank You, Peter D.
Dave, Another great video. I loved all the detail that shows all the little stuff so someone can get their Dual up and running again. If you don't find a stacker-thing for your Dual, let me know and I'll send you one. I live in Southern California, so I'm not sure what's involved with sending things to Canada. But, I'm willing to give it a try if need be. Regards, Tom
No problem sending to Canada. It will go through the mail. I have had VCRs sent up for repair, and never had any issues receiving old equipment. The stacker spindle for this would be icing on the cake. I'll keep my eyes open for one myself.
Awesome , perfect timing I just bought 5 of these in a lot sale lol ... not sure what I’ve got exactly yet .. 1009 , 1218 , 1211 , PE 3012 And 1 other I can see clear in the picture... will know more in about an hour or so when I meet the guy to grab them 🤣
Any Dual turntable was worth having. Some were of course better than others. The 701 for instance had one of the finest drive systems ever made. Never catering for the 'elite' market they were mid price high quality finely engineered units. All Dual tonearms on any model from any era were top quality esp. bearing and resonance performance . Lovely smooth miniature races in a gimbal arrangement and patented anti-resonance counterweight They had their own cartridge carrier and this was a drawback. All had good main bearings and motors and nicely machined alloy platters. Most were on a x4 sprung steel chassis. Before 1980 every Dual was a bit of a gem, The models became a bit more 'plasticky' with the success of the CS505 which practically became the only model available as it outsold the rest by a factor of 100s. Dual was the largest producer of turntables in the world and historically probably still holds that record. As a guide expect Rega 3 performance - or better - from them. Good to see 12volt appreciate these lovely turntables.
Hi @12voltvids, thanks a lot for the video! very helpful! very! what is the friction area you talked about in minute 37:00? i started to fully service mine, dissasemble this "main lever" and turned it upside down. i notice a gray substance material. i wiped it off, and put grease instead. this is the area under the surface where you point with your fingers, at the point a spring pushes a rounded (a ball like) rod against this inner side of this surface.
I found another really good oil. Crappy Tire or Wal-Mart sells 1 litre bottles of standard 30 weight, non-detergent oil. Great for bearings and a little thicker. Plus, it should last a lifetime. Around $6.00.
I have a Dual 1214 (CS16 model) too and in the service manual, they specifically state that (for some parts of the turntable) you should use " BP Oil, Superviscostatic 10W/30", so you're absolutely right.
I've never heard of the name, but push pull amplifiers always worked ok and not hard to repair if they didn't :-) At least it hasn't got a "Sunken" :) or "S.d.k" block of trouble. That deck reminds me of the b.s.r ones, but the control gear is under the deck and out of the way of dirt and dust :-D. Good reliable metal, nice plating too :-D.
Noresco was a Canadian brand that was manufactured in Canada. There used to be many electronic products made in Canada, but thanks to cheap imports most shut down. There are still a few high end low volume manufactures. One such manufacture is Radial Engineering. Among their products Hafler and Dynaco amplifiers, made out west in Vancouver BC. They are very widely known in the professional audio market catering mostly to the recording industry and professional musicians.
I'm working on a Dual 1218 and have a weird problem with the speed control. The lever is a little off to the left of the numbers on the chasses and the turntable won't turn until you move it slightly to the right over the number. I noticed it will work every time when the plastic cam is in the right place, but the little ball bearing on the bottom of the speed casting is between the notches.. I made sure that everything is clean and lubricated and free. Is there an adjustment, has someone put in a wrong cam, I've tried everything, even loosened the nut on the detent plate and can't adjust it there because the shaft is flat on both sides and it can go on in one place.
My first ever hifi in 1974... was a Noresco Dual with some cheap Loyds speakers the store threw in to clinch the deal. Someone told me that Noresco amps were made by Rotel.
This one has surprisingly good sound. Nothing wrong with Dual turntables. They are quite sought after these days. The Noresco amplifier is also nothing to sneeze at. It uses good quality over spec'd components. Even though the amplifier is only rated 30 watts per channel, that amp, given a higher supply voltage could easily pump out 60 as that is what the transistors are rated for. Most of the amplifiers on the day were built this way. This is one of the reasons that so many still work as good as they ever did. Then the Japanese companies started using those terrible STK power modules, and the downhill quality slide started. Notice that they all went back to using separate discrete parts later on on many of thelr power amps. Stuff built in the mid 80's and into the 90's was crap. No reserve power, distortion, and totally unforgiving if you overloaded or shorted the speaker wires. About the only thing I ever saw go wrong with one of these Noresco amplifiers was what had been repaired on this one at some time. The main filter cap. The symptom was a hum. When someone came in with one of these and they said their record player was humming and asked if I knew what was wrong I said I knew exactly what was wrong. When they asked what I responded "Your record player is humming because it doesn't know the words!" That one always brought a good laugh, because I said it with a straight face. The service writer also used that one at the front counter, all the time. No matter what was humming he used that one.
I agree, for what they were and the price. They are solid turntables. My first stereo in 1979 was a hand me down Capehart with BSR turntable and 8 track player. That thing survived me and was given to a friend for him to abuse for years. I have never seen a unit like this Noresco and I don't mean to insinuate it's a bad unit. Thanks to you, if I ever see one and the amp works, I will pick it up. This does have an excellent clean sound to it. I hit a lot of thrift stores searching mostly for vinyl records, but I always check out the electronics section. I just subbed to you, been on a binge watch, and I'll make sure to shut off my AdBlocker when viewing your great videos. I do that for Shango066 too...
Nice video Dave! Where can a download that exactly clock swf you are using in the beginning of the video? I still use my old Sony Ericsson C905 that support flash swf files. I have a Star Trek LCARS Clock screensaver on it. Its only job now is a alarm clock.
Yes I remember them. Fixed a few of them in my career, but many were tossed because the sales people got to the customers first and wooed them with newer, higher power amplifiers that were around in the early 80's. This unit actually sounds great, and at least 44 years old, is testament to the design and build quality.
You do know that back in the 80s we threw away hundreds of these things calling them German junk. Now people worship them, but they are the same that they were 40 years ago, just 40 years older.
Odd that the case doesn't have indent cutouts in the top for storage of spindles when not in use. Many years ago I had a 1214 in case with storage slots for the tall spindle, the single play spindle & 45 adapter. Never lost any of these. I had also acquired a tall 45 adapter for stacking.
When you were working on the AC switch near the end, I noticed a small diameter wire that went to a hole in that switch lever and the other end of it poked through one of 3 openings in the table base. What was its purpose?
Well, anytime you have it upside down, but like at 47:05, right below the transformer, there's 3 elongated holes in the base. The top one has a thin metal rod or wire that goes under the mechanism you were trying to free up and pops up in a hole in one of the brass pieces. Is it just some kind of tensioning rod?
The output shaft of the motor has a hub with a gradual taper. The pitch knob moves the intermediate rim drive wheel up or down on that taper, keeping it in contact with the inner rim.
Excellent tutorial I was able to get my 1214 mostly working, at end of record it will not return unless i coax arm over closer to center. What did i mess-up?
Thanks I think I put too much grease on it and that little lever was sticking and not moving freely , Somali cleaned some of it off and it now seems to work!👍🙂
This "record player" as we used to call them actually sounds very good. The amplifier is 40 watts per channel, and is a basic but good design. Back when I was in the repair business, the sales guys used to call these units junk and try to sell some new sony or technics system, but these were reliable, and as it shows here they have lasted a long time and continue to work. Back when I was in the business I was brainwashed that only good electronics came from Japan and that anything made in Canada or USA was garbage due to the sales guys constant pushing the japanese products of the day. I'd take an old Marantz, Fisher, McIntosh or Dyncao over any of those today.
Basically everything has become cheaper when it comes to technology. Except for mechanical principles and components. From mechanical watches to turntable mechanics. Interesting when you think about it. 57:10 As alternative, you could install an app on your phone for determining RPM by use of the accelerometer. It is not dead on, but reasonably accurate and probably better than just a few minutes of listening.
12voltvids No problem, I was just wondering. It does it once after you oil the motor, then say. Okay, we`ll put the motor back in. It's hard to explain. You should be getting the Sony Watchman in a few days.
Hi i got a question and i hope you can help me !! My wife have the same model and we don't know why but its seems like only the Right Front Speakers Audio work, all the others doesnt, we switch the cable of ur 2 speakers in all the others plugs and nothing work exepts the Right front , what can we do ? Thanks
That power mechanism is still bit gummed up, I have a dual also and the power doesn't take nearly that long to switch off after the tonearm has landed. When you slide the tone arm to the land position it should immediately turn off.
Totally agree. I have worked on dozens of these 12xx series. The linkage/pivot at the 46:00 mark in the video needs more lubricant working into it. Otherwise it will stay sluggish.
Agreed. My Start switch was so stiff to use that I steadied the cabinet from shifting sideways with my left hand. Also unit would usually not switch off after tone arm was at home base. That lower linkage was sticky. I decided to disassemble. Beware the shaft is threaded into the deck and has a wee lock nut on the top of the deck. It came out of the bushing after working back and forth with WD40 solvent. After swabbing parts with alcohol and lubing with a light grease, my start switch has a light feel again and unit switches off like it should.
@@infinitecanadian I don't understand the vinyl revolution. That is taking a big step backwards. I have some good tables (thornes, technics, ar) and you won't find me buying vinyl. CD and dat are my favorite formats.
12voltvids Well they sure don’t make DAT anymore, more’s the pity. Some people swear that the doormat sounds better, and if it brings record players and turntables out of attics to be dusted off, I am all for it.
Only 45s have a special feature for stacking. 33s are not designed to be stacked. The feature is that raised and rough band around the outside of the label to allow 45s to lock together.
Actually that is not a feature that was designed for stacking, it was a feature to make 45's cheaper to make. The thickness around the center is slightly thicker for a couple reasons and stacking was not one of them. The desire to make 45's less costly to manufacture was the main reason. The actual music area of the disc is much thinner than a standard LP. This requires less vinyl and this makes them less expensive. The reason they are slightly thicker in the middle is for the label placement, adding some weight so the record won't slip on the turntable.
I have built a few over the years, but my favorites are the "electronic" ones that display on a CRT. I have 2 boards that I built that display on a X-Y scope tube. One of those board has a bad DAC that I need to fix.
I just wish RCA had persevered with their Selectavision video playback system and possibly made it a HD-Audio system you know the system movies on a vinyl disc if it had been made HD-Audio only there would have been no need for record players and could have been made far simpler as there would not be any need to output a NTSC video signal just left and right audio with a bandwidth of 20hz to 30khz, and just think would it not be better to slide album sleeve into the player till a click is heard then you would withdraw the album sleeve and play would commence and to play the other side you would slide the album sleeve back in till it clicks again and flip the album sleeve over then slide the sleeve back into the player till a click is heard then withdrawn upon playback of side 2 starts.
The CED was a terrible format for video and audio. The disks warped easily, and spinning at 400 RPM it would skip all over the place. Also the audio on these disks was recorded on an FM carrier and was really noisy. SO bad that they had to encorporate CX noise reduction which is similar to DBX just to make the sound bearable. The CED format should never have seen the light of day. RCA lost millions on the format, and all it did was confuse the market, and slow the adoption of Laserdisk.
Unlike DVD and Blu-Ray, SelectaVision CED's have limited capacity, so long movies e.g. Ben-Hur (if it existed in that format) would require 2 or 3 discs. Who would want to go through all that nonsense just to watch one movie? I can see why CED was a crap format. Too difficult to use/maintain or keep clean plus many of the players used belt-drive turntables and a pickup stylus which would probably require full repair/replacement now.
Hay good guy please call the patter the part the record sits on is not the turntable, it is the Patter in think Merry Merry .the was marvellous the way you unstuck it all. Wish you could fix my my duals
Those DIN jacks were really shitty. No idea why companies stuck with them. Lots of times you had problems with them not making good contact, especially on higher power devices like the hernia inducing SABA 9240/50/60 quadro capable.
You really should make an alcohol spray can and not use WD-40. Also, high quality machine oil and not 3 in 1. Proper grease too. The alcohol will evaporate off of the items you are trying to free. Alcohol is also good at breaking down the old grease. WD-40 doesn't evaporate. The only advantage to using WD-40 is that it comes in a spray can with a straw. But all you have to do is drill a hole in an empty can of WD-40 and put a tire valve in it. You can solder it to the can. Pull the core and then pour in the alcohol. Install the core back and pump air it in with a bicycle pump and then you have a very cheap way of spraying alcohol.
@@12voltvids Yes well you see these smartphone manufacturer want to slowly take away outputs so you at some point you will only be available to use special Samsung TV or special USB device.
My S9 still has the good old 3.5mm audio output, and a USBc to HDMI adapter cable is only 13.00. Unlike apple crap products USBc is a standard that all the phone makers are migrating to.
@@12voltvids USB C has been around for a while but micro usb will always be the default because of lower cost as Android is marketed the same way Windows as a tool for profit not a woman's purse as apple is.
thermal nonsense I did have one sales guy, and he wasn't a very good one. My old bbq was looking a little rough so I went to Canadian tire ready to drop 1200 on a new one. He asked what I had and I said napoleon sirb450. He asked what was wrong and I said well it has a hole in the bottom if it. He said as much as I would like to sell you a new one check your selling dealer. Those ones are serviceable. I popped into the shop I bought it at 8 years ago and walked out with a new drip tray, sear plates and infra red burner. Cost about 225. Good as new. No tools needed to replace the drip tray / bottom and just a pair of pliers to change the side burner. Saved me 1000 bucks. Now 99% of sales people would have said your old one is shot time for a new. In fact that is why I was looking because a friend that is a "bbq expert" who had the exact same one as me threw his out saying it was shot and no parts were available. One thing for sure his new Chinese one will be that way. Mine was made with pride in Canada and all parts are available. Shop said they have parts available for everything made in the past 25 years. That's pretty good.
There is no way on earth that this thing makes 35 or 40 watts/ch if you mean RMS watts. Using the IHF peak to peak standard then maybe. RMS power translates to less than 1/3 of IHF power ratings. I'm being generous when I say this unit produces no more than 8 to 10 watts RMS per channel. However 8 clean watts can go a long way and sound surprisingly loud.
The transistors can run 40 watts. The power supply won't have enough current for sustained output at that power but the amplifier board probably could. My son has this unit and I have to endure it every Saturday night when he decides to let loose and get his blinky lights going and the head banger music cranked. It goes bloody loud and rattles the walls.
Try Isotope / Yamash'tas East Wind or Brand X for more of this kind of fusion, or search 'Canterbury Scene', that's the very same Canterbury as where the archbishop is from :-) Brian Auger. czcams.com/video/cF64qcwReMI/video.html And Brand X. Phil Collins on DRUMS! imho he was a much better drummer than a singer.
Very good video but to much video time is wasted on unnecessary talk and operations. It"s a shame that most of the tech guys on utube do the same thing. They are all to windy.
Sorry for your short attention span but I hey paid by the minute. The longer the video the more ad revenue. Besides when I have made short videos get asked to shoot more and talk about how there things operate by at least 10:1. Majority wins out. That is why everyone does this because the vast majority ask for longer more descriptive videos. No, I am not going to make a long one for the majority and a short one for the impatient viewers.
Actually WD 40 is a lubricant. It has oil in it that does get left behind but I would not use it as a lubricant. It is good to use to free up sticking parts. 3 N 1 electric motor oil is just that. Non detergent SAE20 lubricating oil. Engine oil has detergents to trap combustion blow by, which electric motors do not produce. That is the difference. Works great for electric motor bearings.
So glad I found your video. I have a Dual 1209, Noresco. The platter had stopped turning. She now runs like a champ!!
This is great! Based on this and the video to repair the tonearm, our old Dual1214 is up and running!!! All the best, keep up the amazing work and interesting videos!!! :)
I have an actual Dual all-in-one from 1971. It originally had a Dual 1214 but for now, has a Dual 1225. Mine was imported from Germany and is a dual-voltage model. Mine is an entry-level version that has a Ceramic phono input, but upper range models had a magnetic phono input.
Thank you very much! It turned out to restore the Dual according to your instructions!
Been a long day on that one, with the scammer in the middle of shot, liked both of today's videos, keep up the good work.
Loved this video so much had to view it twice .thanks Dave .;-)
Fantastic unit !! Love it.
Just awed by your skills
I really enjoyed watching your videos. I recently picked up a Dual 1229 that seems to be working properly. It sounds incredible. I have a B&O TX2 that recently started to act up. Rather than take it in for servicing, which I never have, I came across the 1229 while shopping for records. I feel I got real lucky with this find. Sounds way better than the B&O. The guy at the record store sent me home with it to try for a week. No questions asked, no money down just a handshake. This guy is a class act. Having trust in his fellow man. I truly feel he knows he is giving me a sweet deal. I'm heading back this weekend to pay for it at his asking price of $240. My question for you is when should I take this in for service. Do I wait for something to fail, or just get it cleaned properly and start fresh? Also, what can one expect to pay just for maintenance service. I watched your full 1229 overhaul video and you are very talented. I'm afraid I will screw this up if I attempt to perform this service, so I best leave it to the professionals. Thank You, Peter D.
Dave,
Another great video. I loved all the detail that shows all the little stuff so someone can get their Dual up and running again.
If you don't find a stacker-thing for your Dual, let me know and I'll send you one. I live in Southern California, so I'm not sure what's involved with sending things to Canada. But, I'm willing to give it a try if need be.
Regards, Tom
No problem sending to Canada. It will go through the mail. I have had VCRs sent up for repair, and never had any issues receiving old equipment.
The stacker spindle for this would be icing on the cake. I'll keep my eyes open for one myself.
FROM SPAIN THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE. I HOPE TO SEE YOU SOON IN ANOTHER VIDEO
Will be in the shop tomorrow working on something.
Awesome , perfect timing I just bought 5 of these in a lot sale lol ... not sure what I’ve got exactly yet ..
1009 , 1218 , 1211 , PE 3012 And 1 other I can see clear in the picture... will know more in about an hour or so when I meet the guy to grab them 🤣
I have a Dual direct-drive turntable that I bought in the early 80's , it was very good. 35-40 watts gives decent output.
Very nice sounding deck. I prefer the old tech. Thanks for the vid. 👍
Work of art how these turntables were made.
Actually they've junk but....
Any Dual turntable was worth having. Some were of course better than others. The 701 for instance had one of the finest drive systems ever made. Never catering for the 'elite' market they were mid price high quality finely engineered units. All Dual tonearms on any model from any era were top quality esp. bearing and resonance performance . Lovely smooth miniature races in a gimbal arrangement and patented anti-resonance counterweight They had their own cartridge carrier and this was a drawback. All had good main bearings and motors and nicely machined alloy platters. Most were on a x4 sprung steel chassis. Before 1980 every Dual was a bit of a gem, The models became a bit more 'plasticky' with the success of the CS505 which practically became the only model available as it outsold the rest by a factor of 100s. Dual was the largest producer of turntables in the world and historically probably still holds that record. As a guide expect Rega 3 performance - or better - from them.
Good to see 12volt appreciate these lovely turntables.
Deoxit is great stuff, Thanks for the heads up... Better than any other contact cleaner like CRC!!!!
The red straw which extends the yellow straw, is that an extra add on?
Hi @12voltvids,
thanks a lot for the video! very helpful! very!
what is the friction area you talked about in minute 37:00?
i started to fully service mine, dissasemble this "main lever" and turned it upside down. i notice a gray substance material. i wiped it off, and put grease instead.
this is the area under the surface where you point with your fingers, at the point a spring pushes a rounded (a ball like) rod against this inner side of this surface.
I found another really good oil. Crappy Tire or Wal-Mart sells 1 litre bottles of standard 30 weight, non-detergent oil. Great for bearings and a little thicker. Plus, it should last a lifetime. Around $6.00.
I have a Dual 1214 (CS16 model) too and in the service manual, they specifically state that (for some parts of the turntable) you should use " BP Oil, Superviscostatic 10W/30", so you're absolutely right.
What is the yellow grease used in turn table rehab?
Thanks
I've never heard of the name, but push pull amplifiers always worked ok and not hard to repair if they didn't :-)
At least it hasn't got a "Sunken" :) or "S.d.k" block of trouble.
That deck reminds me of the b.s.r ones, but the control gear is under the deck and out of the way of dirt and dust :-D.
Good reliable metal, nice plating too :-D.
Noresco was a Canadian brand that was manufactured in Canada.
There used to be many electronic products made in Canada, but thanks to cheap imports most shut down. There are still a few high end low volume manufactures. One such manufacture is Radial Engineering. Among their products Hafler and Dynaco amplifiers, made out west in Vancouver BC.
They are very widely known in the professional audio market catering mostly to the recording industry and professional musicians.
I'm working on a Dual 1218 and have a weird problem with the speed control. The lever is a little off to the left of the numbers on the chasses and the turntable won't turn until you move it slightly to the right over the number. I noticed it will work every time when the plastic cam is in the right place, but the little ball bearing on the bottom of the speed casting is between the notches.. I made sure that everything is clean and lubricated and free. Is there an adjustment, has someone put in a wrong cam, I've tried everything, even loosened the nut on the detent plate and can't adjust it there because the shaft is flat on both sides and it can go on in one place.
Al Di Meola. 1970's fusion. Brilliant.
My first ever hifi in 1974... was a Noresco Dual with some cheap Loyds speakers the store threw in to clinch the deal. Someone told me that Noresco amps were made by Rotel.
So glad I grew up around Technics turntables. I learned at an early age that component systems were
much better quality and sound.
This one has surprisingly good sound. Nothing wrong with Dual turntables. They are quite sought after these days. The Noresco amplifier is also nothing to sneeze at. It uses good quality over spec'd components. Even though the amplifier is only rated 30 watts per channel, that amp, given a higher supply voltage could easily pump out 60 as that is what the transistors are rated for.
Most of the amplifiers on the day were built this way. This is one of the reasons that so many still work as good as they ever did. Then the Japanese companies started using those terrible STK power modules, and the downhill quality slide started. Notice that they all went back to using separate discrete
parts later on on many of thelr power amps. Stuff built in the mid 80's and into the 90's was crap. No reserve power, distortion, and totally unforgiving if you overloaded or shorted the speaker wires. About the only thing I ever saw go wrong with one of these Noresco amplifiers was what had been repaired on this one at some time. The main filter cap. The symptom was a hum.
When someone came in with one of these and they said their record player was humming and asked if I knew what was wrong I said I knew exactly what was wrong. When they asked what I responded "Your record player is humming because it doesn't know the words!" That one always brought a good laugh, because I said it with a straight face. The service writer also used that one at the front counter, all the time. No matter what was humming he used that one.
I agree, for what they were and the price. They are solid turntables. My first stereo in 1979 was a hand me down Capehart with BSR turntable and 8 track player. That thing survived me and was given to a friend for him to abuse for years. I have never seen a unit like this Noresco and I don't mean to insinuate it's a bad unit. Thanks to you, if I ever see one and the amp works, I will pick it up. This does have an excellent clean sound to it. I hit a lot of thrift stores searching mostly for vinyl records, but I always check out the electronics section. I just subbed to you, been on a binge watch, and I'll make sure to shut off my AdBlocker when viewing your great videos. I do that for Shango066 too...
Nice video Dave! Where can a download that exactly clock swf you are using in the beginning of the video? I still use my old Sony Ericsson C905 that support flash swf files. I have a Star Trek LCARS Clock screensaver on it. Its only job now is a alarm clock.
my uncle was having a similar model but with a Tuner , and the speakers connectors were ''push'' terminals
Yes I remember them. Fixed a few of them in my career, but many were tossed because the sales people got to the customers first and wooed them with newer, higher power amplifiers that were around in the early 80's.
This unit actually sounds great, and at least 44 years old, is testament to the design and build quality.
I have around 15 Dual turntables. From the 1019 to the 731Q.
Epic!
I had also a dual made in Germany. Epic!
You do know that back in the 80s we threw away hundreds of these things calling them German junk. Now people worship them, but they are the same that they were 40 years ago, just 40 years older.
Those old German turntables are like old BMW cars. If they are working they are great, but they can be finicky and need a lot of adjustments.
Nice!!
Odd that the case doesn't have indent cutouts in the top for storage of spindles when not in use.
Many years ago I had a 1214 in case with storage slots for the tall spindle, the single play spindle & 45 adapter. Never lost any of these. I had also acquired a tall 45 adapter for stacking.
Oh well. My son commendeered this one and uses it all the time. Actually sounds great with that built in Canadian amplifier.
When you were working on the AC switch near the end, I noticed a small diameter wire that went to a hole in that switch lever and the other end of it poked through one of 3 openings in the table base. What was its purpose?
Where was this?
Well, anytime you have it upside down, but like at 47:05, right below the transformer, there's 3 elongated holes in the base. The top one has a thin metal rod or wire that goes under the mechanism you were trying to free up and pops up in a hole in one of the brass pieces. Is it just some kind of tensioning rod?
That is where the spring anchors into.
Where do you get your information on the units
What cleaner are you using ,the only cleaner I got is a tuner cleaner and lubricants, will that work on volume knobs etc.
I use Deoxit and Nutrol for controls. WD40 to free up turntables to get them apart and then use good quality oil to keep them turning.
I have a Dual C812 tape deck but it's fubar since it's missing mechanical parts and levers. :(
Have you ever worked on a ELAC W.German H10 IF SO CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE I can get a new headshell mine is broken in 1/2
12voltvids fanfare of success: "Sit on my faaaaace and tell me that you love meee!" :D
How does the pitch control work on this player then m8?
The output shaft of the motor has a hub with a gradual taper. The pitch knob moves the intermediate rim drive wheel up or down on that taper, keeping it in contact with the inner rim.
Sounds really good. Probably give my studio reference Crosley a run for its money.
Excellent tutorial I was able to get my 1214 mostly working, at end of record it will not return unless i coax arm over closer to center. What did i mess-up?
There is an adjustment under the chassis to set the end of record pick up point.
Can u give me an idea what to look for?
@@timlazurka1465 If you look at some of my other dual videos you will see the adjustment position. I have covered this before.
Thanks I think I put too much grease on it and that little lever was sticking and not moving freely , Somali cleaned some of it off and it now seems to work!👍🙂
Hi, I was wondering how you connected the mp3 player to the amplifier
I plugged it into the aux input on the back.
hows the bass and treble on them does it have strong bass
This "record player" as we used to call them actually sounds very good. The amplifier is 40 watts per channel, and is a basic but good design. Back when I was in the repair business, the sales guys used to call these units junk and try to sell some new sony or technics system, but these were reliable, and as it shows here they have lasted a long time and continue to work. Back when I was in the business I was brainwashed that only good electronics came from Japan and that anything made in Canada or USA was garbage due to the sales guys constant pushing the japanese products of the day. I'd take an old Marantz, Fisher, McIntosh or Dyncao over any of those today.
Track 268, who is the artist and what is the name of the song?
It is a royalty free track that came with an editing package I tried a few years ago. From Triple Scoop Music.
Smile by Cadence Burns
Basically everything has become cheaper when it comes to technology.
Except for mechanical principles and components.
From mechanical watches to turntable mechanics.
Interesting when you think about it.
57:10 As alternative, you could install an app on your phone for determining RPM by use of the accelerometer.
It is not dead on, but reasonably accurate and probably better than just a few minutes of listening.
Another great video. The scammer also. What is the noise I hear in the background every once in a while?
What noise?
12voltvids No problem, I was just wondering. It does it once after you oil the motor, then say. Okay, we`ll put the motor back in. It's hard to explain. You should be getting the Sony Watchman in a few days.
His phone?
Jim Litz That's probably it. I just never heard that tone.
Hi i got a question and i hope you can help me !! My wife have the same model and we don't know why but its seems like only the Right Front Speakers Audio work, all the others doesnt, we switch the cable of ur 2 speakers in all the others plugs and nothing work exepts the Right front , what can we do ? Thanks
Sounds like an amplifier problem to me
Thanks ! @@12voltvids
That power mechanism is still bit gummed up, I have a dual also and the power doesn't take nearly that long to switch off after the tonearm has landed. When you slide the tone arm to the land position it should immediately turn off.
Totally agree. I have worked on dozens of these 12xx series. The linkage/pivot at the 46:00 mark in the video needs more lubricant working into it. Otherwise it will stay sluggish.
Agreed. My Start switch was so stiff to use that I steadied the cabinet from shifting sideways with my left hand. Also unit would usually not switch off after tone arm was at home base. That lower linkage was sticky. I decided to disassemble. Beware the shaft is threaded into the deck and has a wee lock nut on the top of the deck. It came out of the bushing after working back and forth with WD40 solvent. After swabbing parts with alcohol and lubing with a light grease, my start switch has a light feel again and unit switches off like it should.
There are still amplifier companies that make amplifiers in Canada. There was even someone who custom manufactured turntables.
Yes Radial engineering, maker of Dynaco and Haffler amplifiers operates in Port Moody, just outside of Vancouver. They have some very nice tube ampls.
That turntable maker operated in Vancouver. My dad and I went to see the shop; just a one man operation. I don’t think it exists anymore.
In fact, I think there are several turntable manufacturers. This new vinyl revolution has stimulated production.
@@infinitecanadian
I don't understand the vinyl revolution. That is taking a big step backwards. I have some good tables (thornes, technics, ar) and you won't find me buying vinyl. CD and dat are my favorite formats.
12voltvids Well they sure don’t make DAT anymore, more’s the pity. Some people swear that the doormat sounds better, and if it brings record players and turntables out of attics to be dusted off, I am all for it.
People probably asked you a million time, but what is model is your watch ?
Casio Waveceptor 3023.
It is solar powered and has the WWVB radio receiver in it so it sets the time automatically when reception is good.
Whats the name of the intro tune?
Only 45s have a special feature for stacking. 33s are not designed to be stacked. The feature is that raised and rough band around the outside of the label to allow 45s to lock together.
Actually that is not a feature that was designed for stacking, it was a feature to make 45's cheaper to make. The thickness around the center is slightly thicker for a couple reasons and stacking was not one of them. The desire to make 45's less costly to manufacture was the main reason. The actual music area of the disc is much thinner than a standard LP. This requires less vinyl and this makes them less expensive. The reason they are slightly thicker in the middle is for the label placement, adding some weight so the record won't slip on the turntable.
it seems that your a bit of a clock "O" manic 'great vids mate'
I have built a few over the years, but my favorites are the "electronic" ones that display on a CRT. I have 2 boards that I built that display on a X-Y scope tube. One of those board has a bad DAC that I need to fix.
I just wish RCA had persevered with their Selectavision video playback system and possibly made it a HD-Audio system you know the system movies on a vinyl disc if it had been made HD-Audio only there would have been no need for record players and could have been made far simpler as there would not be any need to output a NTSC video signal just left and right audio with a bandwidth of 20hz to 30khz, and just think would it not be better to slide album sleeve into the player till a click is heard then you would withdraw the album sleeve and play would commence and to play the other side you would slide the album sleeve back in till it clicks again and flip the album sleeve over then slide the sleeve back into the player till a click is heard then withdrawn upon playback of side 2 starts.
The CED was a terrible format for video and audio. The disks warped easily, and spinning at 400 RPM it would skip all over the place. Also the audio on these disks was recorded on an FM carrier and was really noisy. SO bad that they had to encorporate CX noise reduction which is similar to DBX just to make the sound bearable. The CED format should never have seen the light of day. RCA lost millions on the format, and all it did was confuse the market, and slow the adoption of Laserdisk.
Unlike DVD and Blu-Ray, SelectaVision CED's have limited capacity, so long movies e.g. Ben-Hur (if it existed in that format) would require 2 or 3 discs. Who would want to go through all that nonsense just to watch one movie?
I can see why CED was a crap format. Too difficult to use/maintain or keep clean plus many of the players used belt-drive turntables and a pickup stylus which would probably require full repair/replacement now.
Hay good guy please call the patter the part the record sits on is not the turntable, it is the Patter in think Merry Merry .the was marvellous the way you unstuck it all. Wish you could fix my my duals
_Sales Reptiles_ ... :)-
Yup.
- Eddy
I dislike sales reptiles.
Always trying to sell you something you dont need or want.
Those DIN jacks were really shitty. No idea why companies stuck with them. Lots of times you had problems with them not making good contact, especially on higher power devices like the hernia inducing SABA 9240/50/60 quadro capable.
You really should make an alcohol spray can and not use WD-40. Also, high quality machine oil and not 3 in 1. Proper grease too.
The alcohol will evaporate off of the items you are trying to free. Alcohol is also good at breaking down the old grease. WD-40 doesn't evaporate. The only advantage to using WD-40 is that it comes in a spray can with a straw. But all you have to do is drill a hole in an empty can of WD-40 and put a tire valve in it. You can solder it to the can. Pull the core and then pour in the alcohol. Install the core back and pump air it in with a bicycle pump and then you have a very cheap way of spraying alcohol.
Black berry 10 dose not support notches there for you should get a pixle 3 because it's rad and Google needs to keep it's pockets warm.
I have a Samsung s9 and d8 (work phone). Use the old bb phone for VoIP and music playback only.
@@12voltvids Yes well you see these smartphone manufacturer want to slowly take away outputs so you at some point you will only be available to use special Samsung TV or special USB device.
My S9 still has the good old 3.5mm audio output, and a USBc to HDMI adapter cable is only 13.00. Unlike apple crap products USBc is a standard that all the phone makers are migrating to.
@@12voltvids USB C has been around for a while but micro usb will always be the default because of lower cost as Android is marketed the same way Windows as a tool for profit not a woman's purse as apple is.
My samsung s8 came with a microUSB to USBc adapter.
USBc has many advantages. Impossible to plug in backwards.
sounded like you said "sales reptiles"
I probably did. Everyone knows that salespeople are snakes, and well snakes are reptiles aren't they.
@@12voltvids your on point man they r snakes
thermal nonsense
I did have one sales guy, and he wasn't a very good one. My old bbq was looking a little rough so I went to Canadian tire ready to drop 1200 on a new one. He asked what I had and I said napoleon sirb450. He asked what was wrong and I said well it has a hole in the bottom if it. He said as much as I would like to sell you a new one check your selling dealer. Those ones are serviceable. I popped into the shop I bought it at 8 years ago and walked out with a new drip tray, sear plates and infra red burner. Cost about 225. Good as new. No tools needed to replace the drip tray / bottom and just a pair of pliers to change the side burner. Saved me 1000 bucks. Now 99% of sales people would have said your old one is shot time for a new. In fact that is why I was looking because a friend that is a "bbq expert" who had the exact same one as me threw his out saying it was shot and no parts were available. One thing for sure his new Chinese one will be that way. Mine was made with pride in Canada and all parts are available. Shop said they have parts available for everything made in the past 25 years. That's pretty good.
There is no way on earth that this thing makes 35 or 40 watts/ch if you mean RMS watts. Using the IHF peak to peak standard then maybe. RMS power translates to less than 1/3 of IHF power ratings. I'm being generous when I say this unit produces no more than 8 to 10 watts RMS per channel. However 8 clean watts can go a long way and sound surprisingly loud.
The transistors can run 40 watts. The power supply won't have enough current for sustained output at that power but the amplifier board probably could. My son has this unit and I have to endure it every Saturday night when he decides to let loose and get his blinky lights going and the head banger music cranked. It goes bloody loud and rattles the walls.
WD40 is magical stuff for old record players, but when people use it as a POT cleaner it makes me cringe.
Try Isotope / Yamash'tas East Wind or Brand X for more of this kind of fusion, or search 'Canterbury Scene', that's the very same Canterbury as where the archbishop is from :-)
Brian Auger. czcams.com/video/cF64qcwReMI/video.html
And Brand X. Phil Collins on DRUMS! imho he was a much better drummer than a singer.
And Jean Luc Ponty , or Billy Cobham.
Brian Auger! czcams.com/video/cF64qcwReMI/video.html
Just discovered this: Yamash'ta / Al De Meola czcams.com/video/RuCC21mFMzk/video.html
Very good video but to much video time is wasted on unnecessary talk and operations. It"s a shame that most of the tech guys on utube do the same thing. They are all to windy.
Sorry for your short attention span but I hey paid by the minute. The longer the video the more ad revenue. Besides when I have made short videos get asked to shoot more and talk about how there things operate by at least 10:1. Majority wins out. That is why everyone does this because the vast majority ask for longer more descriptive videos. No, I am not going to make a long one for the majority and a short one for the impatient viewers.
FUSION! czcams.com/video/cF64qcwReMI/video.html
All of the pivots need to be greased with white lithium grease. WD-40 is not a lubricant and 3 in 1 oil is poor quality, liquid and not a grease.
Actually WD 40 is a lubricant. It has oil in it that does get left behind but I would not use it as a lubricant. It is good to use to free up sticking parts.
3 N 1 electric motor oil is just that. Non detergent SAE20 lubricating oil.
Engine oil has detergents to trap combustion blow by, which electric motors do not produce. That is the difference. Works great for electric motor bearings.