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BendPak MD 6XP Review
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I have the same it's going on 13 years & still going strong
I place wooden cribbing beneath mine so even a hydraulic failure wouldn't matter. Cribbing is absurdly handy so every few years I buy a 6x6 and some 4x4s then cut to ~18" for general use. Wood doesn't crush or slip.
I've got the same lift, not gonna lie I've had multiple 3/4 ton diesels on it. Set it down on the locks and don't ever get underneath it. It's been a beast of a lift. Had mine probably 10 years also. I've retired it since I got my 2 post but keep it around cause it is handy for certain things.
One of the nicest things that you would never think of is detailing a car. Set a sedan on the 42" stop, pull up the wheeled stool and the process of clay bar, wax and polish gets half way to enjoyable....
Toss wooden blocks underneath and you can safely work underneath because wood doesn't crush. That's why first responders use it. I drill the larger pieces for a pull rope aircraft chock style.
That’s my dream, need more headroom to deal with stubborn rusted nuts & bolts, besides getting to old to creep under.
Thanks for the informative video, even though it was a year ago.😊
Glad it helped. It is not as nice as walking under a 2 post lift but as you said, it is better than laying on cold concrete. My lift has paid for itself at least 5X over since I have had it...
So glad I found your channel as this is the point where I am ‘at home’. I too have a ‘mid-rise’ lift for a smaller (lower ceiling)garage that I haven’t put in to service just yet. Here in Canada we have some awefully cold winters and since I don’t make money in the shop as yet, it wouldn’t be feasible to have it heated all winter as I would like to. I to am awaiting the new big(full size triple bay) garage a little bit further back in the yard. I blessed with a ‘very large’ 😉 country lot already…just gotta put the scratch together to get that done. Debating steel building or perhaps a pole barn? Either way I’ll need at least a 6”-8” concrete floor as I’ll put in one 10,000lb lift and want to be able to get a heavier one if necessary. 12,000lb to 14,000lb for service/welding truck or one of my monster trucks…they tend to get a bit heavy.
Keep the videos coming…I would also like to see what there is out there for the latest diagnostic tools.
Thanks.
I've got the quickjack right now and don't like the degrees of freedom, how they can be out if plane, not parallel, etc. I've been eyeing this lift because it addresses that, seems like a solid choice light duty home use, tire changes, detailing, hitch install. Thanks for the review
Great video. I'm in the market for one and this was very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for this mid lift tutorial !!!
it seems that bendpak is the only brand that only has 3 lock stops. the rest have 6 or 7. sadly I won't know what I need unless I try it and noone has a showroom or a 1 month trial 😀
wondering the distance the wheels roll from the lowest position to the full hight position? i see you have plates under the wheels how long are the plates ?
Sorry for the delay. I had to both move the truck that parks over it (not a daily) and then raise the lift to answer your question. Based on wear marks of the steel plates under my wheels I would estimate 18".
Great video. Where did you get your oil catch tank?
Auto Zone... price has gone up significantly... I paid $80 www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/professional-drain-pan/p/oemtools-9gal-upright-portable-oil-drain/908386_0_0
I’m curious about that too. I see there is a reply but there is nothing there. Anyone else run into that?
The instructions for installation state a thermal disconnect switch for the motor must be installed by the owner. Other than the 25 amp breaker, did you install a thermal disconnect and if so, where is it? Secondly, you said that you've lifted many different types of vehicles. Have you lifted an older VW beetle (like a 68) and if so, where did you place the front lift arms/pads so that you did not crush or damage the pans and frame? Thanks.
I have had my unit for more than 13 years. There was no requirement for a thermal disconnect, nor do I have one. I have never lifted any VW brand vehicle. Mercedes and BMW yes....
@@edmamon4655Ok thanks. They must've added the requirement later.
About the amperage. It says on the motor it draws 14.5-14.8A on 110volt. Always go with the 80% max output for the breaker, 20 amps breaker max is 16 amps. That’s why you need a 20 amps and not a 15 amps breaker. Hope this helps.
Hi friend, question for you. Have you found any vehicles that were not able to work with the mounting arms. Reason I ask is because I have a big range of vehicles by size (tiny bmw z4, c6 corvette, several hummers, and a humvee). My concern is that I will find a limitation with where the arms on this can reach the jacking points on the vehicles. It does seem more versatile than the ram style ones where you add a block under the jack points but Ive love to hear if you came across any vehicles personally that didn't work. Cheers!
I think that each of the vehicles listed will require special handling. On the small side, I suspec that the Z4 and C6 will not have the clearance to drive over the lift without damage. I keep 16' long (I think) 2" x 12" boards to place under low profile cars. I have had to use them on Honda Civics/Accords, Mustangs, etc.. I never used it to a locking point on my 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali. The Denali was right at its max weight of 6,000 lbs and I did not feel the arms would reach out far enough based on the 220" length of the vehicle. For the XL and a Tundra Crew Cab, I simply lifted enough to get all 4 tires up and then put jack stands under the lift sides for safety locks. I would think that any Hummer (except the baby) would be too heavy... It is not good for exhaust or transmission work as the center of the vehicle underside is fairly obstructed. Now if you have normal height sedans, CUVs, small SUVs (Explorer, Envoy) it is perfect....
@@edmamon4655 thanks brother that’s really helpful info.
Would it make sense to put a tarp/cover when not in use?
It all depends on your set up.... how often would something be parked over it? do you live in a snow/salt area? what is the clearance of the vehicle that would be parked over it daily?
We normally park our Yukon XL over it and it may be parked there for 10-14 days. The Yukon XL has plenty of width and clearance that a tight tarp would not be an issue. However, if the Yukon is out... a Buick Lacrosse may be parked over it. In the case of a normal sedan/coupe the clearance is minimal and you would not want to get snagged on a loose tarp. I would only put a tarp over it if custom made with snaps or elastic sides so that there is no loose material for the undercarriage to snag on driving over..... I hope that helps. Ed
@@edmamon4655
I was was thinking custom, like you you described.
Good point on snags if not tied down tightly.
Thanks for your explanation.
Also you would want to be awefully careful to park a hot catalytic converter over top as it may just melt a tarp in that area despite the cat guard/heat shield.
Save yourself the hassle on oil changes, take her car to a reputable oil shop. You might spend $15 more, but you won’t have to get under the car or dispose of oil. It’s really not worth doing oil changes yourself IMO.
Unless it’s a collector car or something special, then I’d understand.
Nick, to each is own. I am happiest in the garage unless I am dealing with an unforeseen failure, that needs to be addressed immediately. Personally, I am not comfortable with trusting a local shop to cross-thread, over torque and use whatever filter they can buy the cheapest. Also, I know how much oil was collected (is it using oil? how much?) and I can inspect for any signs of concern such as metal particles or milkiness......
Well on a car , you don’t just change oils… there’s tons of things to do. Don’t forget most Americans has 2 cars, throw in friends and families …
In canada , you need to do oil changes and tire changes (mounted on rims). So you save quite a lot of money if you are a family of like 4-5 cars.
Also, at least I know what filter and oil is being used.
Sump bolt torqued, filter inspected for metal, exactly the right oil and filter used including fill level. Oil shops just don’t, they can’t afford or charge labour for my standards of maintenance.