You did the tensioning procedure completely wrong and that can cause the tensioner to fail. There's even a warning on the workshop manual NOT to do it the way you did. Here's how it's done correctly: 1. turn the tensioner anticlockwise until pointer at far right past "new" bracket. Lightly tighten tensioner bolt. 2. rotate engine two turns and ensure timing marks aligned. 3. loosen tensioner bolt and turn tensioner clockwise until pointer at "new'" bracket. Allen key hole should be pointing around 5 o'clock. Tighten bolt to 22 nm. 4. rotate engine two turns and ensure timing marks aligned. Ensure pointer at "new" bracket. 5. done.
That water pump design reminds me of when vauxhall used to use the water pump as the timing belt tensioner back in the day, you had to spin it round manually to do the tension, pain in the arse, those 3 little Allen bolts holding the pump into the block always used to strip. Those 1.8 timing tension bolts are a pain they always strip out because they are way to shallow for the torx to get a proper grip, i used to take an angle grinder to it and shave of the sides down so i could fit a spanner on it, always worked.
Nice video , to make it easier to turn over you should take the spark plugs out, also you should turn the engine over at least two times to confirm the marks are still aligned correctly
Jay West what did you do to the new pulley it looks like a chisel job on that as well . The thread is checked against the stud that came out. I agree with the bolt as the new one was scrunched ouff the packet
Those torx on the tensioner are a right pain. I've always just used the Allen head socket on the tensioner mechanism and turned that anti-clockwise and that has loosened the main torx holding bolt. Tip for next time! Saves you breaking out the drill and chisel, especially if the engine is still in the car.
Cheers for that having a nightmare with the bolt on an x16xe, Corsa b (bloody tight engine bay) I'll give it a go in the morning before I carry on drilling the bolt. Thank again!
Hey mate timing on cam looks half tooth out also crank mark looks full tooth out, left hand drill bits would got that torx out easy as for future reference all the best cheers.
The easy and smart way is to just move anticlockwise that part that has the Allen key hole in it, just like you do when you adjust the tensioner, the screw wil be engaged and undone by that part with the Allen key hole..
Thanks for a good video. Helped me a lot. Same problem with the tensioner bolt, used a grinder. 2 min extra work, no bigger problem. Over all a good economical engine from GM, 296000km and still kickin good. Greetings from Sweden.
Did a zlet timing belt other day and tensioner bolt was a pain on that, but I’m sure the tensioners are supposed to be set anti-clockwise rather than clockwise on gm otherwise tensioners fail. Also when you put timing belt on gates say to around anticlock wise starting at crank, stops the crank moving which unless it was a dodgy angle the white mark had moved to 5 o’clock on the crank gear
I've had the joys of doing this job this past week...timing belt tensioner bolt was a bastard to get out - ended up using a hammer and chisel on it and eventually cracked it loose.. the water pump is a different story though, 3 days of constant whacking and wedging for it to budge..with the engine still in the car etc (zafira)..safe to say the water pump came out in several broken pieces
Someone has already replaced belt-tensioner has been setup and tensioned wrong -see allenkey tab should be approx 5 oclock when set, starting at 7 oclock!
Great video, you make it look so easy. I think I'm confident enough to give it a go myself but first I need to buy myself a torque wrench. Keep the videos coming, they really do give people the confidence to try and fix it themselves. Thanks!
yina it blows me away mate at some of the stuff you do. I have been a mitsubishi technician for 4 years now and I work with some "professional" techs who wont do anything bigger than servicing because they are scared of a bit graft. where is you have no vehicle qualifications to your name and your pulling engines out, replacing timing chains and seem to know quite a substantial bit about vehicle repair. well done mate. keep it up!
+Caillin Greer Comments like this make my absolute day! Thankyou very much for the kind words bud, i try my best! I guess having a passion for this stuff can drive you on to do more than just wanting to get a paycheck every month.. I suprise myself sometimes on the knowledge i have considering i have never had any professional training. Thankyou for watching and im glad you enjoyed!
Currently busy with Opel/Vauxhall Meriva 1.8 Z18XE petrol timing kit changing. According to your video it's exactly the same engin. Had the same trouble with getting that tensioner bolt out. Allen key broke. So i grined a groove into the bolt head with an angle grinder, took a 5 pound hammer and chizzle, and it came off. Thanks for the torque specs. Now i can finish up the job. Just need a second opinion on the cam markings. They should'nt be exactly in line. Left should be slightly above right according to manufacturer
Kiristin käännetty väärään suuntaan löysätään myötäpäivään ja kiristetään vastapäivään ja kun kiristin laitetaan momenttiin joka kerta ehdottomasti lukitukset tulee olla irrotettuna ja kampiakselia tulee pyörittää 2-3 kierrosta myötäpäivään.
The timing belt isn't too difficult to change. When I did mine, I managed without the cam locking tool. I bought my belt from Autovaux which included the tensioner and pulleys. I didn't change the water pump but I'm going to do it at the next timing belt change. Although Vauxhall originally recommended 60,000 miles between belt changes, they should be changed every 40,000 miles. The new belt will be total peace of mind for the new owner.
probs best to turn the engine over while the cams are exposed, you can confirm then that it is all in time and you can also adjust the tensioner if it has slightly deviated from the "new" notch position which they sometimes do
I'm pretty sure you have turned the tensioner the wrong way. you need to turn the tensioner anticlockwise. if you leave it will eventually damage the tensioner then wreck the engine. hope this helps
+Dddd Cccc Yes, agree the tensioner needs to be turned anti-clockwise, its even marked on the tensioner itself. He should also rotate the engine twice around to check that timing marks line up. These are big mistakes unfortunately.
for anyone who watches this video and does the job on their engine, the tensioner bolts almost always round off. Mine rounded when i was tightening it, it never even got to 10nm - the stupid bolt head is just too shallow and soft. I also replaced with a 13mm head bolt, bought from the hardware shp, and its exactly the same length - so buy some beforehand. If your tensioner bolt rounds while undoing it, a cone cutter bit on a drill zaps the complete head off in about a minute flat.
Hi James, I know it's a long time ago but at 17.05 it looks like you have fitted the tensioner and removed it. If you fitted it incorrectly it would be useful in future to show mistakes to aid others. Not moaning you do great video's just may help in future.
Fantastic video, have Vectra 1.8sri myself, been tinkering with it, to be honest I like these engines they seem to have enough space to work with, the best part of it all is seeing an engine been taken out. Thinking of doing mine now.. great work. Keep it up. 👍
looks easy when engine isnt in the car ,but soon see doing this job as soon as parts arrive, very helpful video thanks,although didnt mention crankshaft marks until late in the video,
I wish there was a video like this on the VVT version of this engine. I've got to change the sprockets and as far as I'm aware they aren't keyed and they can turn independently of the cam shafts. What a faff on.
Nice one again James. Good camera work and fine instructions. Plastics, plastics and more plastics, that's alot of plastic on that engine. Changed a leafspring on my Landy today, one more to go. Oké thanks for the vid man, keep up and I will follow!
+The Savage Garage Landy owners can get a little upset if you use the J word lol. Got a cousin who is landy mad I'm often referring to it as a Jeep, really passes him off too.
Be carefull that the notch on the tensioner pulley is at the bottom of the hole on the engine block which James does correct here.This will give you the maximum play for the tensioner to move up and tighten. Iv seen a video on u tube where the notch is put in at the top of the hole and he had problems with tensioning the belt.
Mate this is just great. Really a breath of fresh air at the end. Am really inspired to do my own Corsa 1,4 sport 2001. Its the same engine I guess?. Thanx bro!!
You were supposed to fit a new crankshaft pulley bolt. And rotate at least 1 time the engine and check tensioner again. Read the oem service instructions.
Thanks mate for showing step by step some guys on this youtube should take a leaf out of your book most of show your half a story keep up the good work
How did you stop engine turning over when you did crankshaft pulley bolt to specs? Also in manual it says to replace with new bolt and some blue locktite thread lock on threads when replaced. Thought I would mention that for other home mechanics to no.
Just watching some of your older videos James seen as I'm off , that water pump looked like it could release a lot of stress haha I like how you started soft with a rubber mallet then end hard core with the mini sledge hammer 👍 who needs the gym when you have a vauxhall repair. Speaking of vauxhalls have you done the corsa c anti roll bar bushes I suspect that's causing some knocking over bumps but there doesn't look a lot of room to work with, from what I see it's a lot of underneath working blind then to the engine bay , I imagine it's fiddley?
Fair play mate wish i had a garage/drive way to do my own repairs but then who knows maybe i would have loads of parts just laying around and me saying ill get around to it soon 😂 kool video keep it up ☺ 👍
to say he dont konw anything about timming up hes got some nice tools and that timing tenstioner look used with marks all over it but good job nicely done
hi dear, it was great explanation. know I can change timing belt of my car with your help. but I can't find cam locking tool anywhere. I looked at ebay, aliexpress, but didn't find as it as. please help to find it.
Are there details in Haynes manuals for changing piston rings ? I am most concerned about torque setings and all. I am planing to work on mine Corsa C 2001, its 3 cylinder with z10xe engine.
+hanksranger I didnt have to remove it, this is the new engine going in the project sri.. So made sense to do it before i put the engine in plus for filming purposes you can see much more! :)
It was lucky the engine was out for the belt change, getting to that stripped torx would be been a bitch otherwise. There's a V6 ford engine on the US market which actually uses Torx for headbolts. Talk about designed for Torx have a habit of stripping even with the proper bit. I always hit those things with an impact first time if i can.
Crankshaft pulley bolt should have been replaced with a new one, any bolt that is angle tightened is torque to yield, and are designed to stretch to obtain the correct loading, these should never be re-used. Great video though 👍
Nice video as I am planning to do on my 2004 Ford Fusion 2 this video just encouraged me to do it. My question is do I need to take the engine out to replace the timing belt
you did two things wrong... the crankshaft bolt must be renewed and the torque you used was wrong according to the technical manual. TIS says Replace bolt Tighten bolt- Tightening torque 95 Nm + 30°+ 15° for those who want to be sure also add a drop or two of locktite on the bottom of the thread to stop vibrations accidentally messing the bolts... Also cleaning the back of any oil is good to ensure the new belt doesnt get contaminated... also remember to check the bolts for the other guide pulleys.
Very helpful video, viewers may want to confirm the torque values for those 3 water pump bolts, your 25nm recommendation may sheer the heads off? I suspect it's 8nm on the 1.8?
Better sometimes to take it to the shop let them do it it they are the expert especially with a timing chain if you get it wrong goodbye engine they get it wrong give me a new engine all guaranteed for a year or so but great video mate didn't like the tensioner bolts they should re-engineer those but a bigger allen key in it
Nice work, quick question if in the car, is can belt change possible with top engine mount in place or is this a removal job and prop engine up? Cheers
just replaced the timing belt. having tentioner problems. I had to use a std bolt on the tentioner cause it stripped. ive got the bolt in tighter than I can do with a breaker bar. any way i've spun the engine around twice to check timing. thats fine. then when I go to take the crank bolt out to replace the pully the tentioner pointer keeps moving!!?? whats the solution?? should I leave the clamp pliers on the cams to hold the timing until ive taken the bolt out or will this damage the teeth on the belt? cheers for the help people
Another good video.Be careful swapping bolts,should make sure that the bolt you fit is the equivalent spec/strength,as the original bolt.Not a fan of Torx bolts,designed for manufacturing and often get damaged/butchered later,because people don't own Torx bits,sockets etc.
+g w pee Yea both grade 8 bud, same thread pitch length and so on so should be ok! :) trouble with these torx specifically is its a low profile torx to clear the cover and crank pulley, you get about 1mm of depth which is just not enough
You did the tensioning procedure completely wrong and that can cause the tensioner to fail. There's even a warning on the workshop manual NOT to do it the way you did.
Here's how it's done correctly:
1. turn the tensioner anticlockwise until pointer at far right past "new" bracket. Lightly tighten tensioner bolt.
2. rotate engine two turns and ensure timing marks aligned.
3. loosen tensioner bolt and turn tensioner clockwise until pointer at "new'" bracket. Allen key hole should be pointing around 5 o'clock. Tighten bolt to 22 nm.
4. rotate engine two turns and ensure timing marks aligned. Ensure pointer at "new" bracket.
5. done.
That water pump design reminds me of when vauxhall used to use the water pump as the timing belt tensioner back in the day, you had to spin it round manually to do the tension, pain in the arse, those 3 little Allen bolts holding the pump into the block always used to strip.
Those 1.8 timing tension bolts are a pain they always strip out because they are way to shallow for the torx to get a proper grip, i used to take an angle grinder to it and shave of the sides down so i could fit a spanner on it, always worked.
Quality idea! Having a nightmare with mine, thank you.
I used to work for Vauxhall...9 times out of 10 those tensioner bolts are always a pain
Nice video , to make it easier to turn over you should take the spark plugs out, also you should turn the engine over at least two times to confirm the marks are still aligned correctly
Exactly what I was going to say, covers will go last after 2 complete cycles
Jay West what did you do to the new pulley it looks like a chisel job on that as well . The thread is checked against the stud that came out. I agree with the bolt as the new one was scrunched ouff the packet
Those torx on the tensioner are a right pain.
I've always just used the Allen head socket on the tensioner mechanism and turned that anti-clockwise and that has loosened the main torx holding bolt. Tip for next time! Saves you breaking out the drill and chisel, especially if the engine is still in the car.
Cheers for that having a nightmare with the bolt on an x16xe, Corsa b (bloody tight engine bay) I'll give it a go in the morning before I carry on drilling the bolt. Thank again!
Hey mate timing on cam looks half tooth out also crank mark looks full tooth out, left hand drill bits would got that torx out easy as for future reference all the best cheers.
The easy and smart way is to just move anticlockwise that part that has the Allen key hole in it, just like you do when you adjust the tensioner, the screw wil be engaged and undone by that part with the Allen key hole..
Thanks for a good video. Helped me a lot. Same problem with the tensioner bolt, used a grinder. 2 min extra work, no bigger problem. Over all a good economical engine from GM, 296000km and still kickin good. Greetings from Sweden.
Z18XE? The best GM engine since the 20ne, the Z18XER seems to lose head gaskets
Did a zlet timing belt other day and tensioner bolt was a pain on that, but I’m sure the tensioners are supposed to be set anti-clockwise rather than clockwise on gm otherwise tensioners fail.
Also when you put timing belt on gates say to around anticlock wise starting at crank, stops the crank moving which unless it was a dodgy angle the white mark had moved to 5 o’clock on the crank gear
I've had the joys of doing this job this past week...timing belt tensioner bolt was a bastard to get out - ended up using a hammer and chisel on it and eventually cracked it loose.. the water pump is a different story though, 3 days of constant whacking and wedging for it to budge..with the engine still in the car etc (zafira)..safe to say the water pump came out in several broken pieces
Thanks for a well informed video. Great to see with the engine out of the car. Makes it a lot easier to see how the job is done properly. Many thanks
Someone has already replaced belt-tensioner has been setup and tensioned wrong -see allenkey tab should be approx 5 oclock when set, starting at 7 oclock!
He set the pointer correctly
Great video, you make it look so easy. I think I'm confident enough to give it a go myself but first I need to buy myself a torque wrench. Keep the videos coming, they really do give people the confidence to try and fix it themselves. Thanks!
yina it blows me away mate at some of the stuff you do. I have been a mitsubishi technician for 4 years now and I work with some "professional" techs who wont do anything bigger than servicing because they are scared of a bit graft. where is you have no vehicle qualifications to your name and your pulling engines out, replacing timing chains and seem to know quite a substantial bit about vehicle repair. well done mate. keep it up!
+Caillin Greer Comments like this make my absolute day! Thankyou very much for the kind words bud, i try my best! I guess having a passion for this stuff can drive you on to do more than just wanting to get a paycheck every month.. I suprise myself sometimes on the knowledge i have considering i have never had any professional training. Thankyou for watching and im glad you enjoyed!
Timing Belts
Currently busy with Opel/Vauxhall Meriva 1.8 Z18XE petrol timing kit changing. According to your video it's exactly the same engin. Had the same trouble with getting that tensioner bolt out. Allen key broke. So i grined a groove into the bolt head with an angle grinder, took a 5 pound hammer and chizzle, and it came off. Thanks for the torque specs. Now i can finish up the job. Just need a second opinion on the cam markings. They should'nt be exactly in line. Left should be slightly above right according to manufacturer
Kiristin käännetty väärään suuntaan löysätään myötäpäivään ja kiristetään vastapäivään ja kun kiristin laitetaan momenttiin joka kerta ehdottomasti lukitukset tulee olla irrotettuna ja kampiakselia tulee pyörittää 2-3 kierrosta myötäpäivään.
Thank you very much - I have to do my grand-daughters Astra very soon, so this is very helpful.
Same engine on meriva A and still works like brand new. Only using 5w30 oils as its the best for this motors
The timing belt isn't too difficult to change. When I did mine, I managed without the cam locking tool. I bought my belt from Autovaux which included the tensioner and pulleys. I didn't change the water pump but I'm going to do it at the next timing belt change. Although Vauxhall originally recommended 60,000 miles between belt changes, they should be changed every 40,000 miles. The new belt will be total peace of mind for the new owner.
not doing water pump big mistake ,,guess what will fail before you get it changed ,,,,yep water pump ..so called sealed for life rubbish
Good video, well explained, well shot, well narrated. Thanks for the tips :)
probs best to turn the engine over while the cams are exposed, you can confirm then that it is all in time and you can also adjust the tensioner if it has slightly deviated from the "new" notch position which they sometimes do
I'm pretty sure you have turned the tensioner the wrong way. you need to turn the tensioner anticlockwise. if you leave it will eventually damage the tensioner then wreck the engine. hope this helps
+Dddd Cccc Yes, agree the tensioner needs to be turned anti-clockwise, its even marked on the tensioner itself. He should also rotate the engine twice around to check that timing marks line up. These are big mistakes unfortunately.
So to tighten the tensioner it should be turned anti clockwise ?
Haynes manual uses a two step process to tighten the belt confused. com.
www.partinfo.co.uk/files/TB01.pdf found thislink if anyone interested its same as haynes method
Yes wrong way ,even arrow on it
This was a great video. Enjoying watching all your old stuff. Cheers. 👍
for anyone who watches this video and does the job on their engine, the tensioner bolts almost always round off. Mine rounded when i was tightening it, it never even got to 10nm - the stupid bolt head is just too shallow and soft. I also replaced with a 13mm head bolt, bought from the hardware shp, and its exactly the same length - so buy some beforehand.
If your tensioner bolt rounds while undoing it, a cone cutter bit on a drill zaps the complete head off in about a minute flat.
I did a water pump on a VW Golf and it was welded to the block, I could feel your pain, when trying to get it off.
Use vaseline silicon on gasket
Great video👌! Good to see someone just working on his car who is learning by doing.
+Luca Car Mods Thanks alot mate! Best way to learn :)
Left handed drill bits (yes they are a thing) or a screw extractor would be your answer to the difficult pulley bolt.
Hi James, I know it's a long time ago but at 17.05 it looks like you have fitted the tensioner and removed it. If you fitted it incorrectly it would be useful in future to show mistakes to aid others. Not moaning you do great video's just may help in future.
Fantastic video, have Vectra 1.8sri myself, been tinkering with it, to be honest I like these engines they seem to have enough space to work with, the best part of it all is seeing an engine been taken out. Thinking of doing mine now.. great work. Keep it up. 👍
looks easy when engine isnt in the car ,but soon see doing this job as soon as parts arrive, very helpful video thanks,although didnt mention crankshaft marks until late in the video,
I wish there was a video like this on the VVT version of this engine. I've got to change the sprockets and as far as I'm aware they aren't keyed and they can turn independently of the cam shafts. What a faff on.
Great job, it so annoying that one stubborn bolt can change everything
Nice one again James. Good camera work and fine instructions. Plastics, plastics and more plastics, that's alot of plastic on that engine. Changed a leafspring on my Landy today, one more to go. Oké thanks for the vid man, keep up and I will follow!
+RED h.c. Thanks again bud appreciate it! Yea alot of plastic lol i dont suppose your 'Jeep' has that much plastic lol! Thanks for watching as always!
+The Savage Garage It's not a J**P!!! Bye
Haha im only messing mate!
+The Savage Garage Landy owners can get a little upset if you use the J word lol. Got a cousin who is landy mad I'm often referring to it as a Jeep, really passes him off too.
Great video, had the same issue with the tensioner torx bolt, mine ended up twisting a brand new T40 impact bit. Glad I wasn’t the only one!
Be carefull that the notch on the tensioner pulley is at the bottom of the hole on the engine block which James does correct here.This will give you the maximum play for the tensioner to move up and tighten. Iv seen a video on u tube where the notch is put in at the top of the hole and he had problems with tensioning the belt.
just watched the tool box tour video. really liking this channel.
5:17 I used welder, just welded a nut and it came off easy.
Great video bud and top job on that belt change never would have known it was your first go 👍
if that's your first belt change you did very well congrats Daz
Hi , thanks for the video. I'm having serious problem with my Opel zafira timing belt. Pls what can I do to stop it from cutting all the time. Thanks
Watching some oldies mate 😊👍
Brilliant. Planning to do mine soon. Had a rough idea but now I know actually.. well done. Nice one 👌😁
If you get a punch and tap the Allen key bit on the tensioner and tap it anti clockwise it undoes the bolt when there rounded out, 😉
Not sure about Circoli TBH, I had one of their thermostats last about 2 months.
Mate this is just great. Really a breath of fresh air at the end. Am really inspired to do my own Corsa 1,4 sport 2001. Its the same engine I guess?. Thanx bro!!
only thing id say is I would crank the engine over by hand a few times when I can still see the timing marks but awesome video man love it
Great vids ... just one thing , one click on the torque wrench is all that is required and no further
You were supposed to fit a new crankshaft pulley bolt. And rotate at least 1 time the engine and check tensioner again. Read the oem service instructions.
Thanks mate for showing step by step some guys on this youtube should take a leaf out of your book most of show your half a story keep up the good work
How did you stop engine turning over when you did crankshaft pulley bolt to specs? Also in manual it says to replace with new bolt and some blue locktite thread lock on threads when replaced. Thought I would mention that for other home mechanics to no.
great video/ channel. I had exactly the same issue doing my belt on my old bertone. took an angle grinder to it carefully!
I just watched the whole video excellent job for a first time round and I'm glad you use a torque wrench thumbs up from me 👍
Just watching some of your older videos James seen as I'm off , that water pump looked like it could release a lot of stress haha I like how you started soft with a rubber mallet then end hard core with the mini sledge hammer 👍 who needs the gym when you have a vauxhall repair.
Speaking of vauxhalls have you done the corsa c anti roll bar bushes I suspect that's causing some knocking over bumps but there doesn't look a lot of room to work with, from what I see it's a lot of underneath working blind then to the engine bay , I imagine it's fiddley?
hey, regarding the white tipex mark on the 2 top cranks. were they marked by the manufacturer?
Thanks for the video I really enjoyed that...so much easier when the engine is out if the car
Fair play mate wish i had a garage/drive way to do my own repairs but then who knows maybe i would have loads of parts just laying around and me saying ill get around to it soon 😂 kool video keep it up ☺ 👍
Great video! Never in my life have I used my External Torx Sockets.
You seem to use them in EVERY video Lol,
👍🏼👍🏼 dead blows on the impact tool will shock it free
Thanks dear sharing
to say he dont konw anything about timming up hes got some nice tools and that timing tenstioner look used with marks all over it but good job nicely done
Der Riemen wird von Rechts nach Links auf gelegt. man fängt an der kurbelwelle an und nicht bei den Nockenwellenräder
Nice scooter in the end of the place!!!!
Accidentally fucked up and my cams are outta alignment. Hoping this video wil help 😂
Engine it out of the car so it maker it harder/easier
just come across your videos , fair play to you for doing a cambelt even tho it's your 1st time respect is due !
hi dear, it was great explanation. know I can change timing belt of my car with your help. but I can't find cam locking tool anywhere. I looked at ebay, aliexpress, but didn't find as it as. please help to find it.
Are there details in Haynes manuals for changing piston rings ? I am most concerned about torque setings and all. I am planing to work on mine Corsa C 2001, its 3 cylinder with z10xe engine.
Doing timing belts are so fun lol never had to remove the motor to do one though
+hanksranger I didnt have to remove it, this is the new engine going in the project sri.. So made sense to do it before i put the engine in plus for filming purposes you can see much more! :)
ya good idea, you replace anything else on it?
+hanksranger going to be doing the clutch kit, exhaust manifold (as its cracked) and then just a general service!
It was lucky the engine was out for the belt change, getting to that stripped torx would be been a bitch otherwise. There's a V6 ford engine on the US market which actually uses Torx for headbolts. Talk about designed for
Torx have a habit of stripping even with the proper bit. I always hit those things with an impact first time if i can.
Cheers for another video man! Great content! You definitely appear more confident than your previous videos!
+MerDjence Thankyou! remember i am still new to youtube! Only been doing it a year and a bit! Thankyou for watching :)
Nice vid, so much easier with engine out!.
Much easier! Thanks for watching
Crankshaft pulley bolt should have been replaced with a new one, any bolt that is angle tightened is torque to yield, and are designed to stretch to obtain the correct loading, these should never be re-used.
Great video though 👍
Is it okay to release the pulley's bolt as shown here w/ impact gun but without locking tools if the engine is not removed from the car?
Nice video as I am planning to do on my 2004 Ford Fusion 2 this video just encouraged me to do it.
My question is do I need to take the engine out to replace the timing belt
Should the crank shaft be locked when doing this job ?Also is it recommended to use thread lock for the bolts ?
you did two things wrong... the crankshaft bolt must be renewed and the torque you used was wrong according to the technical manual.
TIS says
Replace bolt
Tighten bolt- Tightening torque 95 Nm + 30°+ 15°
for those who want to be sure also add a drop or two of locktite on the bottom of the thread to stop vibrations accidentally messing the bolts...
Also cleaning the back of any oil is good to ensure the new belt doesnt get contaminated... also remember to check the bolts for the other guide pulleys.
Very helpful video, viewers may want to confirm the torque values for those 3 water pump bolts, your 25nm recommendation may sheer the heads off? I suspect it's 8nm on the 1.8?
This happened to myself on my 1.8.....set the torque wrench to 25nm and im now left with a snapped bolt inside the block :(
top job you have inspired me to do my c20ne corsa combo timing belt myself
Awesome! Let me know how you get on with it :) if I can do it you can too!
+The Savage Garage I'll let you know might stick a video up I can find my own gopro
+suzuki guy (1 arm bandit) old *
You should of turned the crank by hand twice to check its working ok after tightening the tensioner.
John ocallaghan I did
Ok but u did not show that in the video ? Great video best iv seen on u tube. Its so much easier to see when engine is out of car.
Thank you, I have always wanted to know how this is done, now I can see
Better sometimes to take it to the shop let them do it it they are the expert especially with a timing chain if you get it wrong goodbye engine they get it wrong give me a new engine all guaranteed for a year or so but great video mate didn't like the tensioner bolts they should re-engineer those but a bigger allen key in it
Nice work, quick question if in the car, is can belt change possible with top engine mount in place or is this a removal job and prop engine up? Cheers
Did you say you’re going to (Rout) the belt.
Wat gebeurd er als je de stand gebruikt waar die op staat dus ditekt zelf streepjes zetten in de midden en dan vast zetten of kan dat niet
Thanks for the sharing bro... I'm here malaysia... My car Chevrolet nabira same ingine
well another cracking video :) im really enjoying watching these and looking forward to the next one :) keep it up buddy!!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you are enjoying the project so far! Next episode should be up Sunday :)
Is it a good idea to use blue loctight on all the bolts ?
Supporter from Belgium. Keep up the good work mate!
Cool Video.
What stops the rollers and tensioner bolts from coming loose ?
Excelente!
just replaced the timing belt. having tentioner problems. I had to use a std bolt on the tentioner cause it stripped. ive got the bolt in tighter than I can do with a breaker bar. any way i've spun the engine around twice to check timing. thats fine. then when I go to take the crank bolt out to replace the pully the tentioner pointer keeps moving!!?? whats the solution?? should I leave the clamp pliers on the cams to hold the timing until ive taken the bolt out or will this damage the teeth on the belt? cheers for the help people
how did you get on ? and did you tighten the tensioner bolt nice and tight with the breaker bar
Great video James keep them coming :-).
No entendí solo observé si copié muy agradecido estoy..... Desdevnzla a marciales
what ever happened to the bike in the background and the trike ?
did you repair the break on the timing cover you smashed with the malet ?
you never showed us you tightening the idler pulleys
Great tutorial. Thanks
excellent video mate
Well done,,
Another good video.Be careful swapping bolts,should make sure that the bolt you fit is the equivalent spec/strength,as the original bolt.Not a fan of Torx bolts,designed for manufacturing and often get damaged/butchered later,because people don't own Torx bits,sockets etc.
+g w pee Yea both grade 8 bud, same thread pitch length and so on so should be ok! :) trouble with these torx specifically is its a low profile torx to clear the cover and crank pulley, you get about 1mm of depth which is just not enough