Thanks very much. I have taken hundreds of hours of testing this truck, searching online, ordering different parts for many different rc's just to profect the way this truck is setup. I did this because other than the axle shaft issue, it's a fast, durable, bash worthy truck that seems to keep on going no matter how much I beat it to death. Thanks very much for your support.
@Rage Rc Repair I need to hit them with the air compressor they have been put away and are just covered in webs. I've only driven the sandstorm and not the volcano wich is a shame because I really wanna check out how much faster that brushless motor is. Not much difference though The sandstorm has purple components and has a four shock system and isn't brushless but still was fun and kinda fast.
@@jdp8944 I would have to say the biggest weakness you will find in the brushless is the axle shafts. But they are pretty fast! I've had my stock volcano hit 54 mph on the airport tarmac on 3s. That was just with different tires!
You're welcome! The bumpers front and rear were a brand called Tbone Racing. Unfortunately they are no longer in business. I'm not sure if anything comparable is available now. I will see what I can find.
Hey man! I know this has been quite a while- BUT if you still have this car I’d love to know what else you ended up doing with it. I purchased the aluminum lower control arms for the front and aluminum knuckles, as well as carriers front and rear. Long story short- I had two bent front axles, cracked the chassis in half, and decided to upgrade some stuff while I was fixing it. The issue I’m running into now is that the upgraded cv axles from Redcat- the damn pins fell out (currently attempting to get those replaced as they quite literally never saw power. Installed and fell apart.) What I’m noticing is that it appears they may be too short as they barely fit in the diff drive cups. I’m curious as to what specific o-rings you’d use to put in those drive cups- and also if I should abandon the CV axles altogether. If that’s the case- I do want to get upgraded dogbones, and would love to know if you think LONGER dogbones would be a good idea. I took your advice and changed the suspension geometry, but for now I’m unable to do any final camber/toe adjustments until I can get the replacement axles. I’m HOPING that helps with the axle length. The adjustable knuckles appear to have an additional, lower, hole to place the upper turnbuckles in- but since you were using the original plastic ones I put them in the middle.
Metal chassis, shock towers, etc. are fine, but I've discovered that the original plastic lower arms on all corners will save your CVD axles and/or dogbones more than you'd expect. Unless you are running on pavement and have found or made some sort of sway bar for pavement speed runs and never cart-wheel it 30ft across the drag strip... but then you probably wouldn't be having axle problems I'd guess :) Here's a quick outline of my build: Mine is pretty much all alloy parts including alloy rear diff housing (dunno what he's talking about with just one not working... maybe he didn't flip the other diff), and hardened diff cups front and rear using the method he mentions in the vid ^^. When switching back to plastic lower arms all around I modified the front (shaved a bit and drilled out) to accept redcat Blackout hubs stub axles. These have a far better uh.. camber link?? than what comes on the EPX but need a bit of modification or a spacer where it attaches to the shock tower. The stub axles from the Blackout are also that are 1mm thicker than the Volcano/EPX stubs and are compatible with the CVD shafts available for the Volc. EPX on amazon. Shimming the differentials is MANDATORY when going from plastic diff housing to alloy! 10x16x0,1(mm) shims did the job nicely for me, about 4-5 to keep the diff from moving or pulling the ring gear and screws out/away from the plastic differential gear housing. That really seems like the most solid way to build it for the 4s monster lipo and castle motor/esc I've crammed under the shell. It will do around 45mph with the gearing and motor KV I chose and that's STUPID FAST even with a couple of acre space to rip around! My dogs can grab it by the tire and shake it on the rare occasion they catch it and it doesn't require buying yet another $25 set of CVD axles to replace bent stubs that quickly sheer off once bent anymore!
So I have learned the redcat axles and axle shafts are trash on this model all the way around. If you want a good axle that's half a mm longer, go with the bmt0007 dog ones for the hpi bullet. You must search online to see who has them in stock, but it's a much better option. I believe you can even use the front and rear knuckles from hpi on the redcat. Also the HSP 94111 is the same truck. This is just a China truck made for many brand names. But some are different specs. I use 5mm orings out of a kit from harbor freight that has the complete assortment. You can use the extra orings for many other vehicles as well. I highly recommend keeping the entire truck stock, stripping the electronics, and spraying the entire thing down with WD40. For some reason that softens the plastics a bit and keeps everything from cracking. I hope that helps!
@@ragercrepair9301 I think I may have tried some of those. The dog bones I have tried get thicker in the middle while the stock axles are softer and stay the same size over the whole length. Personally I've had the best luck with the CVD offering from RCAWD as far as durability. They aren't perfect, but they are now the only option for me with the blackout hubs/stubs I have in the front as far as cvd shafts. I hope to make my own in the future with a mini lathe.
@@Grey-Troll I have considered that as well. I might make some just to see what happens. That truck isn't the best but that's why it's so damn cheap. Idk why they haven't gotten rid of it and went to the mt10e with a center diff. Eliminate all the trash models.
I installed the hobbypark lowers and my axels keep popping out. I am planning to purchase the universal joint axels to keep from loosing my axels. Have you tried any?
Yes the universals are weak and seem to snap easily. If you put an oring in both the diff cup and the axle shaft, the axles will stay in place correctly.
man i can't find that rear bumper anywhere. can you give me a link please. did it come with the wheelie bar on it? also what o rings did you use to hold the axle in place? thanks
You can also fit a Redcat Dukono pro wheelie bar on the volcano with a tiny bit of modification! I just installed one on mine and it’s been bashed twice with no problems!🤘🏻
One is a standard front bumper and that part number is 47060, the Mt is a beefier bumper which is part number 47069 and the rear bumper is 47061. Hope this helps!
Yes I’ve been looking in to the granite but don’t like the plastic gears I’ve went through 3 cheaper trucks already and I wanna buy a good one but don’t wanna spend more then 350 and both of the other redcats you said are right in my price range I also have a CZcams channel and wanted to start doing some Rc stuff
Thank you so much for your video. Is there a better axel stub that the factory Redcat part? I just snapped one and wanted to see if there was something stronger?
Awesome and in depth mod descriptions. I cant wait to try them. Happen to have a link to those bullet dogbones that are extra thick!? I cant wait to try some of these mods. However, I would also be really interested in seeing you do the stampede drive arm swap. There is a pretty in depth forum post on it that says it works great (no more dogbones!) Anyway thanks again!
I had considered the stampede swap but those cv axles suck. I've broken so many of those on the stampedes its crazy but I have yet to break an hpi dog bone. Thats why stuck with steel bones. And I believe the part number is BMT0007. I hope that helps you find them. Also little orings or a small slice of fuel likes in the diff cups and axle shafts solves tree he dog bones popping out.
Have you tried installing the traxxas parts on this truck yet I found a write up saying which parts to use to install stamped or slash drive shafts just haven't found a video on it I ordered the parts hoping it works its about 50 bucks worth most of it is on the axles them selves
No problem! That's why I'm doing all this. It's for all of you guys that have asked for advice. And hopefully anyone who needs that extra little bit of help.
I'm having so much trouble with my blackout xte pro. It has a dumb system in the front axles. They aren't dogbones like the valcano. Know anything about it ?
I'm not for certain but if you send me a video of the issues I'm sure I can get you in the right direction. Look me up on Facebook. Go to my group Rage Rc Repair and ask to join. I'll see what everyone else knows about the truck and we'll all help you figure it out.
one thing you didnt see is. im removing the mettle lower rams. measure the distant of the pin location for the riser arm and cup . the metal are about 3 mm longer out. which moves the cups farther away. you would have to have longer god bones. there is none so im going back to stock to see if it solves my steering problem.
Thanks for the video! I just got my Volcano EPX and this has helped a lot! I wanted to verfiy the part number for the HPI axles, is it 101236? Heavy Duty axles for the Bullet, 84mm long.
@@ragercrepair9301 thanks! I went ahead and followed your method of hardening on the outer cups as well as my stock (replacement) dog bones. I haven't torn the diff apart yet, but I'm sure I will. I've bashed with it long enough to kill my 5000mAh 50C battery twice and so far, dog bones are straight as an arrow! I'm still ordering these HPIs just in case, though lol.
thank you I will watch this again to be sure. I do have one question in regards to the grub screw holding the shocks on the steering arms. Do you recommend using a little thread lock on them? they appear just a little loose with the metal steering arms? thank you
I'm not sure I know what you mean by shocks on the steering arms. The shocks only mount to the control arm and shock tower. Maybe I'm missing what you said.
@@ragercrepair9301 yes I placed just a tiny drop of thread lock just in case. I had a crash and broke the control arm on one side and replaced both with the metal control arms. All good now. Ready to go
Great video man! I just bought a redcat volcano exp pro like a week ago.It has broke EVERY single time I put a battery in it!! I have never even jumped it over 2 feet in the air or hit anything hard at any speed at all.Broken parts list...Front axle 2 lower control arms both broke chassis cracked in the front/ front bumper snapped center shaft snapped The rear tire flew off today. It came right past the axle nut!?!?!? And my brother smashed into me and bent a shock with his brand new truck. What upgrades are necessary to make this truck worth owning? I really want to run it on 3s. I ordered a new aluminum chassis and control arms and knuckles.I also bought a 120 amp esc. How durable are these when upgraded to all aluminum? I watch these people launch 30-50 feet and drive away, and I hit a tiny jump or flip a tiny bit and she is broke.I don't want to jump it a mile just mess around and keep it in one piece and do wheelies in fields.
Same experience, man! I gave this to my son for Xmas, and LITERALLY something has broken both times we took it out (less than a total hour runtime since unboxing) that requires new parts and excruciating downtime waiting for them. Screw stripped out of l/f lower steering knuckle first run. 10 minutes on a dirt track, less than 12" air, flat landing, wheel axle snaps on rear wheel. 'Out of stock' from Redcat, but I found Stainless axle assy's on Amazon... Still, the downtime is discouraging for a truck that has been gently used. I'm fine with fixing it - but my son is a little more than discouraged and is convinced it's a POS! Thanks for the great tuning video, I will be watching more and modifying as needed for now. Maybe Redcat ought to set it up different from the factory to make it more user-friendly...?!
@@scottamu7816 Honestly I will save you a lot of pain and anger. Send it back.It is just a lemon rc. My bro bought a redcat after I got mine.His broke in the first minute.He sent his back.I kept mine.I have more money in parts then I paid for the whole rc.I have bought 8 other rc's since this redcat, and have NEVER driven my redcat since!!!! I have broken almost every single part in this rc. SEVERAL TIMES!!!
Ok so I have discovered since mine is all aluminum, which BTW its cheaper to just buy the entire truck as all aluminum parts separately, and it's a total beast. It's better off with tires that are smaller like short course tires. I'm hittping 50mph on 3s and since it's all aluminum I rarely break anything anymore. The tbone basher bumper up front and wheelie bar in the rear have totally saved this trucks ass. It's quite the little beast not and has held up since I turned it aluminum. But it costs more than the price of the stock truck to build if as an upgraded truck. My advice is the redcat Tr-mt10e. Best little basher on the market imo.
@@ragercrepair9301 how about the stub axle shafts?? I have been searching all over for some rugged stub shafts for the volcano epic pro, but no luck. I have bent both hobby park and Redcat brands and I’m only running 2s on a slightly bigger tire. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
I'm trying to decide between the blackout pro, volcano pro and the caldera 10e. I'm leaning towards this. How is it right out of the box? Also awesome video 👌
Honestly I would get the caldera. It just seems to be built better from what I've seen. But I don't have personal experience with it. I'm thinking about buying one so I can do a review on it for everyone.
@@ragercrepair9301 I was kinda thinking the same thing. You should definitely do it man! Last decent unboxing/review was over a year ago. I hear there's been a few updates like metal spur gear and that the motor is a 4pole? I have a lot of questions about the caldera. You should do it, you would kill a review on that truck.
Here is what they say to use I used a little more almost the hole front drive line www.rcuniverse.com/forum/redcat-racing-support-427/11425428-epx-pro-pede-shaft-upgrade.html
Awesome that you took the time to film this video! All of these tricks are very helpful in order to stop breaking dogbones front and rear
Thanks very much. I have taken hundreds of hours of testing this truck, searching online, ordering different parts for many different rc's just to profect the way this truck is setup. I did this because other than the axle shaft issue, it's a fast, durable, bash worthy truck that seems to keep on going no matter how much I beat it to death. Thanks very much for your support.
Found one of these thrown in the trash also found a sandstorm, crazy what people throw away. Just need work on the axel on both cars.
I've never had a sandstorm. Always wanted to see one in person. Have any pictures to drop?
@Rage Rc Repair I need to hit them with the air compressor they have been put away and are just covered in webs. I've only driven the sandstorm and not the volcano wich is a shame because I really wanna check out how much faster that brushless motor is. Not much difference though The sandstorm has purple components and has a four shock system and isn't brushless but still was fun and kinda fast.
@@jdp8944 I would have to say the biggest weakness you will find in the brushless is the axle shafts. But they are pretty fast! I've had my stock volcano hit 54 mph on the airport tarmac on 3s. That was just with different tires!
Hey man thanks for the video
Btw what kind of bumper you used underneath and the wheelies??
You're welcome! The bumpers front and rear were a brand called Tbone Racing. Unfortunately they are no longer in business. I'm not sure if anything comparable is available now. I will see what I can find.
Thanks for the suspension tips.
This is my 1st RC and i have 2 of them, I'm currently modifying Tekno 6mm hubs/shafts to fit.
Let me know if it works!
That was AWESOME! thank you for posting. I'll be doing all your suggestions...
You're welcome
Hey man! I know this has been quite a while- BUT if you still have this car I’d love to know what else you ended up doing with it. I purchased the aluminum lower control arms for the front and aluminum knuckles, as well as carriers front and rear. Long story short- I had two bent front axles, cracked the chassis in half, and decided to upgrade some stuff while I was fixing it. The issue I’m running into now is that the upgraded cv axles from Redcat- the damn pins fell out (currently attempting to get those replaced as they quite literally never saw power. Installed and fell apart.) What I’m noticing is that it appears they may be too short as they barely fit in the diff drive cups. I’m curious as to what specific o-rings you’d use to put in those drive cups- and also if I should abandon the CV axles altogether. If that’s the case- I do want to get upgraded dogbones, and would love to know if you think LONGER dogbones would be a good idea. I took your advice and changed the suspension geometry, but for now I’m unable to do any final camber/toe adjustments until I can get the replacement axles. I’m HOPING that helps with the axle length. The adjustable knuckles appear to have an additional, lower, hole to place the upper turnbuckles in- but since you were using the original plastic ones I put them in the middle.
Metal chassis, shock towers, etc. are fine, but I've discovered that the original plastic lower arms on all corners will save your CVD axles and/or dogbones more than you'd expect. Unless you are running on pavement and have found or made some sort of sway bar for pavement speed runs and never cart-wheel it 30ft across the drag strip... but then you probably wouldn't be having axle problems I'd guess :)
Here's a quick outline of my build:
Mine is pretty much all alloy parts including alloy rear diff housing (dunno what he's talking about with just one not working... maybe he didn't flip the other diff), and hardened diff cups front and rear using the method he mentions in the vid ^^.
When switching back to plastic lower arms all around I modified the front (shaved a bit and drilled out) to accept redcat Blackout hubs stub axles. These have a far better uh.. camber link?? than what comes on the EPX but need a bit of modification or a spacer where it attaches to the shock tower. The stub axles from the Blackout are also that are 1mm thicker than the Volcano/EPX stubs and are compatible with the CVD shafts available for the Volc. EPX on amazon.
Shimming the differentials is MANDATORY when going from plastic diff housing to alloy! 10x16x0,1(mm) shims did the job nicely for me, about 4-5 to keep the diff from moving or pulling the ring gear and screws out/away from the plastic differential gear housing.
That really seems like the most solid way to build it for the 4s monster lipo and castle motor/esc I've crammed under the shell. It will do around 45mph with the gearing and motor KV I chose and that's STUPID FAST even with a couple of acre space to rip around! My dogs can grab it by the tire and shake it on the rare occasion they catch it and it doesn't require buying yet another $25 set of CVD axles to replace bent stubs that quickly sheer off once bent anymore!
So I have learned the redcat axles and axle shafts are trash on this model all the way around. If you want a good axle that's half a mm longer, go with the bmt0007 dog ones for the hpi bullet. You must search online to see who has them in stock, but it's a much better option. I believe you can even use the front and rear knuckles from hpi on the redcat. Also the HSP 94111 is the same truck. This is just a China truck made for many brand names. But some are different specs. I use 5mm orings out of a kit from harbor freight that has the complete assortment. You can use the extra orings for many other vehicles as well. I highly recommend keeping the entire truck stock, stripping the electronics, and spraying the entire thing down with WD40. For some reason that softens the plastics a bit and keeps everything from cracking. I hope that helps!
@@ragercrepair9301 I think I may have tried some of those. The dog bones I have tried get thicker in the middle while the stock axles are softer and stay the same size over the whole length.
Personally I've had the best luck with the CVD offering from RCAWD as far as durability. They aren't perfect, but they are now the only option for me with the blackout hubs/stubs I have in the front as far as cvd shafts. I hope to make my own in the future with a mini lathe.
@@Grey-Troll I have considered that as well. I might make some just to see what happens. That truck isn't the best but that's why it's so damn cheap. Idk why they haven't gotten rid of it and went to the mt10e with a center diff. Eliminate all the trash models.
I installed the hobbypark lowers and my axels keep popping out. I am planning to purchase the universal joint axels to keep from loosing my axels. Have you tried any?
Yes the universals are weak and seem to snap easily. If you put an oring in both the diff cup and the axle shaft, the axles will stay in place correctly.
any suggestion o a brushless motor and esc upgrade for the brushed version?
About 3000 to 4000 kv on the motor, needs to be a 3650 or 3660 can size. I would say a 60a esc would be perfect.
I have the same tires but with white rims but your rc is badass 😎
Thanks very much! Just loving this hobby!
Very good video. I just picked up a volcano and I'm building it to run on 3s. I've been concerned about the cups not holding up. I will try this
Works like a charm!
Men the red volcáno Truck epx pro brushles is good? Durably?
It's not bad once upgraded. But the diffs don't handle 3s to well.
man i can't find that rear bumper anywhere. can you give me a link please. did it come with the wheelie bar on it? also what o rings did you use to hold the axle in place?
thanks
Check out T-bone racing for the wheelie bar and bumper.
You can also fit a Redcat Dukono pro wheelie bar on the volcano with a tiny bit of modification! I just installed one on mine and it’s been bashed twice with no problems!🤘🏻
Hey man I have a redcat volcano epx pro and I was wondering which T bone basher bumpers would fit it? Plz help there are so many dif ones. Web/part #
One is a standard front bumper and that part number is 47060, the Mt is a beefier bumper which is part number 47069 and the rear bumper is 47061. Hope this helps!
@@ragercrepair9301 good lookin out man
No problem! Happy to help.
So I’m about to buy one of these is it a good truck and what’s the first thing I should upgrade? Thanks
Honestly I wouldn't buy one. I would buy the kaiju or the mt10e. Way better trucks all the way around
@@ragercrepair9301 ok Ty it’s hard finding a good one in that price range
Yes it is. You may want to look at the art a granite blx as well
Yes I’ve been looking in to the granite but don’t like the plastic gears I’ve went through 3 cheaper trucks already and I wanna buy a good one but don’t wanna spend more then 350 and both of the other redcats you said are right in my price range I also have a CZcams channel and wanted to start doing some Rc stuff
What do you think about the arrma big rock?
Thank you so much for your video. Is there a better axel stub that the factory Redcat part? I just snapped one and wanted to see if there was something stronger?
I haven't found a stronger factory part yet but I'm still looking for one.
Awesome and in depth mod descriptions. I cant wait to try them. Happen to have a link to those bullet dogbones that are extra thick!? I cant wait to try some of these mods. However, I would also be really interested in seeing you do the stampede drive arm swap. There is a pretty in depth forum post on it that says it works great (no more dogbones!) Anyway thanks again!
I had considered the stampede swap but those cv axles suck. I've broken so many of those on the stampedes its crazy but I have yet to break an hpi dog bone. Thats why stuck with steel bones. And I believe the part number is BMT0007. I hope that helps you find them. Also little orings or a small slice of fuel likes in the diff cups and axle shafts solves tree he dog bones popping out.
Have you tried installing the traxxas parts on this truck yet I found a write up saying which parts to use to install stamped or slash drive shafts just haven't found a video on it I ordered the parts hoping it works its about 50 bucks worth most of it is on the axles them selves
I need to try this as well and do a video on it for everyone. What parts did they say to order?
For the hpi bullet axles did you have to put a bigger 12mm hex
Nope everything was kept stock except the aluminum upgrades.
Great video and thanks for the advice. What size o-rings for the cups should I use?
I just bought an assortment box from the auto parts store. Honestly I'm not sure. But I know they are 6mm o rings.
And thankyou. I'm trying my best to cover all the bases.
No problem! That's why I'm doing all this. It's for all of you guys that have asked for advice. And hopefully anyone who needs that extra little bit of help.
I'm having so much trouble with my blackout xte pro. It has a dumb system in the front axles. They aren't dogbones like the valcano. Know anything about it ?
I'm not for certain but if you send me a video of the issues I'm sure I can get you in the right direction. Look me up on Facebook. Go to my group Rage Rc Repair and ask to join. I'll see what everyone else knows about the truck and we'll all help you figure it out.
one thing you didnt see is. im removing the mettle lower rams. measure the distant of the pin location for the riser arm and cup . the metal are about 3 mm longer out. which moves the cups farther away. you would have to have longer god bones. there is none so im going back to stock to see if it solves my steering problem.
Aww I see.
Thanks for the video! I just got my Volcano EPX and this has helped a lot! I wanted to verfiy the part number for the HPI axles, is it 101236? Heavy Duty axles for the Bullet, 84mm long.
Should be the 3.5 inch bmt0007
@@ragercrepair9301 thanks! I went ahead and followed your method of hardening on the outer cups as well as my stock (replacement) dog bones. I haven't torn the diff apart yet, but I'm sure I will. I've bashed with it long enough to kill my 5000mAh 50C battery twice and so far, dog bones are straight as an arrow! I'm still ordering these HPIs just in case, though lol.
I'm happy everything worked for you! Haha!
thank you I will watch this again to be sure. I do have one question in regards to the grub screw holding the shocks on the steering arms. Do you recommend using a little thread lock on them? they appear just a little loose with the metal steering arms? thank you
I'm not sure I know what you mean by shocks on the steering arms. The shocks only mount to the control arm and shock tower. Maybe I'm missing what you said.
@@ragercrepair9301 I'm sorry you are correct the control arms, newbie with description.
No problem. I just super glued mine in when I put it together and it has held fine since then. Been a year like that or so.
@@ragercrepair9301 yes I placed just a tiny drop of thread lock just in case. I had a crash and broke the control arm on one side and replaced both with the metal control arms. All good now. Ready to go
Great video man! I just bought a redcat volcano exp pro like a week ago.It has broke EVERY single time I put a battery in it!! I have never even jumped it over 2 feet in the air or hit anything hard at any speed at all.Broken parts list...Front axle 2 lower control arms both broke chassis cracked in the front/ front bumper snapped center shaft snapped The rear tire flew off today. It came right past the axle nut!?!?!? And my brother smashed into me and bent a shock with his brand new truck. What upgrades are necessary to make this truck worth owning? I really want to run it on 3s. I ordered a new aluminum chassis and control arms and knuckles.I also bought a 120 amp esc. How durable are these when upgraded to all aluminum? I watch these people launch 30-50 feet and drive away, and I hit a tiny jump or flip a tiny bit and she is broke.I don't want to jump it a mile just mess around and keep it in one piece and do wheelies in fields.
Take a look at my video on axle shafts. It's an older video but it shows everything you need to make this truck amazing!
Rage Rc Repair I did see it. New sub here as well.
Same experience, man! I gave this to my son for Xmas, and LITERALLY something has broken both times we took it out (less than a total hour runtime since unboxing) that requires new parts and excruciating downtime waiting for them. Screw stripped out of l/f lower steering knuckle first run. 10 minutes on a dirt track, less than 12" air, flat landing, wheel axle snaps on rear wheel. 'Out of stock' from Redcat, but I found Stainless axle assy's on Amazon... Still, the downtime is discouraging for a truck that has been gently used. I'm fine with fixing it - but my son is a little more than discouraged and is convinced it's a POS!
Thanks for the great tuning video, I will be watching more and modifying as needed for now. Maybe Redcat ought to set it up different from the factory to make it more user-friendly...?!
@@scottamu7816 Honestly I will save you a lot of pain and anger. Send it back.It is just a lemon rc. My bro bought a redcat after I got mine.His broke in the first minute.He sent his back.I kept mine.I have more money in parts then I paid for the whole rc.I have bought 8 other rc's since this redcat, and have NEVER driven my redcat since!!!! I have broken almost every single part in this rc. SEVERAL TIMES!!!
Ok so I have discovered since mine is all aluminum, which BTW its cheaper to just buy the entire truck as all aluminum parts separately, and it's a total beast. It's better off with tires that are smaller like short course tires. I'm hittping 50mph on 3s and since it's all aluminum I rarely break anything anymore. The tbone basher bumper up front and wheelie bar in the rear have totally saved this trucks ass. It's quite the little beast not and has held up since I turned it aluminum. But it costs more than the price of the stock truck to build if as an upgraded truck. My advice is the redcat Tr-mt10e. Best little basher on the market imo.
Can you link the HSP Dog bone part numbers?
The part number you're looking for is the BMT0007. It's the axle shaft for the Hpi bullet which is essentially the same exact truck.
@@ragercrepair9301 how about the stub axle shafts?? I have been searching all over for some rugged stub shafts for the volcano epic pro, but no luck. I have bent both hobby park and Redcat brands and I’m only running 2s on a slightly bigger tire. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
I'm trying to decide between the blackout pro, volcano pro and the caldera 10e. I'm leaning towards this. How is it right out of the box? Also awesome video 👌
Honestly I would get the caldera. It just seems to be built better from what I've seen. But I don't have personal experience with it. I'm thinking about buying one so I can do a review on it for everyone.
@@ragercrepair9301 I was kinda thinking the same thing. You should definitely do it man! Last decent unboxing/review was over a year ago. I hear there's been a few updates like metal spur gear and that the motor is a 4pole? I have a lot of questions about the caldera. You should do it, you would kill a review on that truck.
Thanks for that man. I appreciate all the support! I can't wait to be able to afford to get some more rigs and keep this hobby alive!
What size O-rings did you put in?
5mm OD orings
Here is what they say to use I used a little more almost the hole front drive line
www.rcuniverse.com/forum/redcat-racing-support-427/11425428-epx-pro-pede-shaft-upgrade.html
That's badass! Thanks man.