Anycubic Kobra 3D Printer Review
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- čas přidán 30. 03. 2022
- Here's another Anycubic 3D printer in their new "Kobra" line - the Kobra... standard I guess? It's a standard sized printer with a PEI bed and a direct drive extruder. Let's dive in!
Amazon: amzn.to/3qNxHYU - Věda a technologie
Cura has a setting that makes it pretty to compensate for elephant foot without adjusting the model. The setting is "initial layer horizontal expansion", and a negative value shrinks the first layer.
at first I thought I was having a stroke and just thought I watched this video already haha.. slightly different printer.
Yeah I tried to vary the thumbnail as much as I could.
I had not watched it for the same reason but it kept getting recommended. Glad I clicked it.
@@madeintexas3d442 Normally I'd put something else between but Anycubic had set release dates. Also I've been busy with non video work.
Been watching all of the new printers you've reviewed and I still manage to learn more about them each time via your vids. Thanks and keep on making these! And hi Bud.
Huh Déjà vu
"Why what did you see!"
I thought I saw a cat open a door then the same cat open a door a few moments later
"was it the same cat!!!"
Déjà vu is a glitch in the matrix, It happens when they change something.
"Bud are you trying to get into my secret garden?"
Ben has a grow op confirmed.
Bud opens the door with his Jedi Mind.
It is set to 230V to protect the Printer. If you use it in the 230 Setting with 115V, nothing wil happen. But if you set it to 115V and using it with 230V, than you have fun but only once.
And most of the world uses 230V
I like your printer reviews. They're lot practical
I love your videos. Would you recommend for a beginner in the $300 under range the anycubic printers like Kobra or vyper, or ender v2 or sovol sv01? I don't know where to start and print quality is my main concern. Although the auto leveling at this price is nice from what I've researched.
Ben your wall clock has stopped, are you trapped in a localised temporal disturbance ?
That's the clock from the Ben Heck Show shop. It has a big crack because the ghost kept knocking it off the wall (in shop #1) Now it's just broken.
@@BenHeckHacks Quit showing us your crack.
hey Ben ,love your vids I just gotta say this. The reason for the magnetic print surface is so that when the print is done you pull off the magnetic print surface and flex it and the prints are supposed to POP off.
Hi. Thanks for the review. If it’s anything like the Vyper I had to adjust the acceleration and jerk settings as they were way off in Cura and that’s what was throwing off the print time estimates.
fair play you made this entertaining, good job dude
I have one of those cassette to MP3 deals, and if you have old audio-books (and a lot those of the vintage that came on cassette are no longer available) on cassette to put it into another storage media.... The 'zit' that you 'cleaned off' is a hatch latch for the port-hole in the back of the cabin on the benchy, depending on which one you are using it will be there and is NOT a mistake.
My Kobra is woking great so: “If it ain’t broke- Don’t fix it.” I did do the z hight and my latest to prints had no elephant’s foot nor squishing around the bottom. I used a sheet of paper. The bed held the print until it cooled then released it. This is now my favorite printer of this size.
Why are you using a scraper to take off the prints when you have a flexible PEI sheet?
Cura has a setting to print one object at a time. That would about eliminate any stringing between pieces. Cuts down on print time too since travel moves are minimized.
You can actually get really good TPU prints out of a bowden setup with capricorn tubing and a BMG style extruder with a small gap. The viper you have actually has a BMG clone, but only certain clones have an internal extension that reduces the gap between the filament input and the output to the bowden to just enough surface area for the gears to grip. A BMG grips filament REALLY hard so they can actually perform super well with flexibles. Capricorn tube has a more consistent internal diameter and tends to be a bit tighter than the generic tubing so that also stops the TPU bunching up
Ps: In England we just say fillet with a hard L for everything and route as "root"
Just Bought one over the Vyper. Thanks for the review!
Great video as always! Is there a all metal hotend available for the Kobra?
Hi Ben, any tips you remember from opening up access to the board, I picked one of these up recently and that board fan needs to get an upgrade... mine is way too loud. I got the screws out but seems like it might also press fit in. Thanks.
This place turned into an unboxing channel so slowly I didn't even notice.
When Ben pulled out the accessories pack I thought for sure he would get it out onto a tray. Nice!
I considered making that joke.
Looking forward to seeing you at MRRF
Bud opening the door is the best ^^
Great video man. Got my kobra yesterday, love it. Still dialing it in. Dang elephant foot
temps too high?
that textured sheet is designed to help keep the plastic stick when hot, but release when cold. that's why it was sticking well when you first removed the prints but it was popping off later. also if you take the prints off when the bed is still warm, it could pull off some of the texture
which is what you just said in the recap. guess I should watch to the end first.
I agree on the SD card thing, I don't know why you'd want a micro on such a large device - you aren't cramped for space! Regular SD is much easier to handle.
In terms of the z-offset stuff that may be the inductive sensor. I was very unhappy with the one on my Creality CR-10s Pro. I was constantly having to fiddle with z-offset. I think they just measure inconsistently. I upgraded to a bl-touch and haven't had to mess with it since.
What printer would you recommend as the best option for general purposes printing?
Looks like a titan aero head design. Rock on! I'm sticking with what works. Blast those that say, oh, that is so 5 yrs old.
Maybe doesn't excuse the inclusion of micro-SD, but the best purchase I ever made for my MP Select Mini was a micro-SD to full-size SD adapter (basically a long ribbon cable with a housing that supports full-size SD cards on the end, and a male micro-SD on the other end). Quality of life improved dramatically since the SD card is basically the only viable way to use that printer.
Great review! Dig the Star Trek quotes!
So the Vyper and Kobra Max both have Decepticon extruders?
I love how Ben keeps using his classic methods to dislodge the printed parts off the Removable Flexible bed surface :D Old habits die hard!
I know right? Muscle memory.
Funny cause he didn't with vyper
Everybody take a shot whenever Ben mentions the Z axis adjustment! 🤣 Looks like a cool printer though. Would be nice to have one that actually used standard software. (I'm stuck on the XYZprinting Da Vinci platform for right now.)
Could you use a height gage to adjust the Inductive Z sensor to match the offset you settle on?
Smaller parts acceleration has more effect than top speed on the overall time, as it doesn't have time to hit the top speeds on the short lines
You should be using Prusa Slicer. Its superior in every way to Cura. It has an elephant foot compensation setting.
Cura now has a setting first layer horizontal expansion. The nice thing about Cura is how often it’s updated, which is something Prusa Slicer doesn’t do often. Super Slicer (a Prusa fork) is better, but Cura isn’t bad either.
I use Capricorn ptfe for the bowden. Been a huge unexpected upgrade.
Whatcha doin'? 1:43
Nice hands on experience before buying
Hi first of thanks for your entertaning vids i have this printer use it fir my hobby rc planes and has been great until now the extruder stepper motor starts chatering have checked blocked nozel voltage to stepper and the drivers on the board to no avail would you have any idea ?
Hey Ben, can you make a tutorial for absolute dummies about setting up a 3D printer (calibration diagnosing common issues etc.)? After watching one of your reviews I got myself a Anycubic S. I tried readjusting the bed multiple times but still got some issues with most of my prints. There are already a lot of helpful nuggets of wisdom in your review videos but a dedicated video covering all the tricky things would be really nice. I know you are "retired", but still :)
The lion kingdom has to probe before every print & adjust Z offset during the skirt. The bed is compressed by the pressure of filament extrusion, at least with buildtak.
If this printer had ethernet or Wifi, that'd be great. All you'd have to do is log into the interface and upload a file to the printer and it would print. I think Cura has a way to interface with network printers. I hate Cura's implementation of USB printing because, since the buffer resides on the computer and not the printer, if the computer goes to sleep or Cura crashes, then the print could fail.
Yeah that's be great! Save Gcode to disk, map network location, printer sees new file arrive and runs it.
I learned a lot with this video!
Like what
@@ChristopherF_1971 Star Trek facts
Tugger is the nickname of Russell Crowe's tugboat. He appears in Season Six episode "The New Terrance and Phillip Movie Trailer".
THANKS FOR THE VID I WASWONDERING IF YOU HAVE HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH THE EXTRUDER CHATTERING
I love modern tech review videos. And Ben Heck cracks me up. Hilarious. I even named one of my cats 'ben heck" and it's an orange cat as well. 😋
Great review! I also like the Star Trek references.
Aals do I
I have been using it for a month with PLA, ABS, TPU and PETG. It was working 24/7...
Then yesterday it messed up a PETG print. I then dried my PETG. It dod not help. I level the bed before every print and set the Z offset.
Went back to PLA and used a piece of gcode that I have printed two dozen times already without problems.
Changed the nozzle. Went through the manual again. Tightened the belts, etc.
Nothing helps. It messes up all prints and I have no idea how to solve it.
It seems the leveling is a bit off after auto leveling. Z offset is a bit lower on the left than on the right....
3D printed theoretical movie reviews. I love it.
Hey when I press print my screen goes black do you know why?
18:50 "Ben use the flex". 😸
"The Probing... Will Continue." reminds me while I was in the military.
Can you still print TPU on the vyper
More printers, more videos. I like!
I was wondering why CZcams was still recommending this video (I was sure I have seen it already) and surprise, it's a different one!
How loud is the printer?
I’m definitely going to MRRF this year. It’s just a zig and a zag down the road from me lol
See ya there!
I think it's time for my first 3d printer
Cat is like oh damn not another one ill never get any attention now
16:01 Rockin' around, the christmas tree...... :)
What is that square test print?
Japan, Mid- and North America and a couple countries with mixed systems aside, everyone in the world use 220-240V. Maybe that's why Anycubic defaults to that..
Kat wants to fight the Kobra
You know what I do every time to level build plates? I go with a single ply notebook paper and go tight where it can barely move. My first layers are always perfect, whether using a 0.2mm nozzle or 0.8mm nozzle. Always lays and stick, no elephant foot either.
So... if you had to choose.
Kobra or Vyper ?
Vyper. I have one and absolutely love it! I have had no issues with it at all! Printed lots of different things and absolutely worth every penny!
AnyCubic will release a direct drive printer with a larger build area and call it the Vyper Max, just to keep up the brand confusion.
Could be worse. Could use Microsoft naming conventions :)
Or nvidia
Lol did you kick out the cat? He keeps coming in then disappear from video xD
you have psp and ps vita dpads?
A pro for me would be the direct drive. I've always wanted to play around with TPU but have a bowden printer.
Kool cat 🐱 👍🏽 Thinking about buying this one to go with my new V 400😂👍🏽
V400 rox ;)
If you're experienced, get for $99 of Ebay as an unrepair...
I use a Orange PI for octoprint the boards are cheap an works great
I can't get mine to auto-level it fails in the same spot and says, "Leveling sensor abnormal, please check it and wiring." Any tips? I feel like I have tried everyhting.
The problem was the nozle kept crashing into the print bed. I solved it by lowering the right side some more. This is my first 3d printer so I am still learning. The first print came out perfectly though!
the probing will continue until morale increases,. OMG IM LAUGHING SO HARD RN XDD
Anycubic cobra or vyper?
I am coming to steal the ring of the 3D printer to use the power of the creator ! 😁
nozzel is too far from bed after auto leveling how to get it closer to bed without scrapingnk you for any help
Adjust your Z offset before printing with a piece of paper or feeler gauge or while printing. I print a bed calibration that's just several squares so I can adjust it as it's printing
bud was like you can't keep me out 🤣
15:58...Why is the whole printer wobbling while it prints... :-\
Is this compatible to Cura. Cannot find this machine inside Cura 5.
Can’t soak to how recently it was added but as of December this printer was definitely included in the current release of that time.
1:43 ha ha, Bud eye’s.
The question is, if you are knocking the same parts out per run, is 4 of these at $400 faster with better print quality than a V400 for $829 running at 200 mm/s?
Not sure what you mean about $400, these are $299 normally, and on sale now for $245.
BUT, Why not buy one for $99? Ebay unrepair. These are due to Covid and people trying out new hobbies and failed wannabes returning them. I've bought 4 unrepairs now (1 x Ender 2 Pro for $69 delivered, 2 x Ancubic Mega X for $109 delivered, and an Aquila for $89 delivered for a relative) only 1 of them wasn't mint condition, never even attempted to be assembled on the other 3... You can even buy the Allstate Warranty for $6 to ensure you get it running ok...
But for this build size right now, the by far best value is the Sovol SV06: same sensor auto leveling, linear rods ALL axis, true FULL metal hotend up to 300c, direct drive with planetary gearing, same PEI bed, full Marlin on control pad, 32 bit board with silent steppers, all for $259.
@@brianmi40 these are on sale at micro center for $99.
@@brianmi40 you could have almost 3x Kobras, for the price of an sv06, so I don't really see how that's an excellent value.
@@foam27 ZERO Kobras can print high temp filament, that's the value.
@@foam27 That's a great price, unfortunately, having to pick it up only, with only 25 stores, limits this to a minority of most people.
yes more 3d printing!
That cat opens doors.
Squish that plast! Just squish that plast!
Those rants in the video are hilarious :D:D:D LOL
Where is Ben!?
AC 220 - 240 Volts is used in most of the world, like CHINA, UK, Europe, Australia and most of Asia and Africa.
Yea but whats odd in some areas they use plugs that look like standard US yo prong plugs. Sorry don't know the NEMA code for them. 👍
If it defaults to 110 volts and you plug it in Europe, you get a rather loud bang. I'm pretty sure the reverse isn't true.
personally, i despise printing tethered via USB vs octoprint/ cloud SD cards. even if you take out the fact that the PC always needs to be on, awake etc. i just get noticeably worse print quality. I'm not sure if its interference, bandwidth whilst its streaming etc. like you do you etc, and the "trying to find a Pi" issue at the moment is legit.
3:06 I see you've been watching DS9. What do you think of it?
Better than STTNG
@@BenHeckHacks blasphemy
its odd that when the print job is done, the bed moves to the back and the z axis goes all the way to the lowest point. You would think it would come forward and present the print to you to take off the bed. Doesn't make any sense.
Can be changed in the slicer (ending script)
Ben must smoke some good stuff. Save the Whales.
The whales comment and star trek 4 reboot was so hilarious, had me laughing for like like a half hour!
Hey Ben! FYI. Your Ebay link shows a Potential Security Risk Ahead warning screen. Not sure what's up with it. I trust you Ben but not that link.
Oh, yes. That's strange…
Plugging 120v into a 240v device can only really be boring. 240v into a 120v device, on the other hand, can be really cool.
The way ben explains his donation, it sounds like its intended to stop starving orphans evil plans.
Some of those orphans are up to no good!
4:50 hmm wondering the context of that picture
23:23 this is like that ice cream meme scene, "mmm that's a 10"
The Whale Wars people built some sort of stupid fancy boat and one of the Whaler ships rammed.