I had two of these 10" subs installed in a single ported box for my 2015 Honda Fit. They fit perfectly in the spare tire compartment and produce more than enough thump for my needs. 😉
That's awesome! I've been rocking the 12 in a sealed enclosure for a few months in a personal vehicle, the way JL achieves the smoothest sounding bass is really a testament to their design expertise.
The JL W0 has been a solid choice for decades. I still have four first gen 10W0-8's I use daily. They've been in at least 3 different enclosures and in various combinations.
I had a pair of 15w0's in 4 cuft sealed powered by an old Kenwood 1021, They just work. affordable, efficient, nice compromise between output/accuracy/low end. A great all round daily use subwoofer
Wow! That means a ton! Doing my best to bring you guys tons of valuable fabrication and installation lessons along with product information. Thank you for watching!
Can anybody help me with this comparison. Here, between the JL Audio 10W0V3 and Morel Primo 104 is about the same price, so which is better then? Thanks 🙏
I had both! 2 12s WOv2 in a sealed box runing a sony xplod 500 watt amplifier back in 2011, in 2020 I updated to 2 15s W0v3 runing a JL JX1000/1D in a ported box. you will have a faster bass respons with the 12 but when it come too LOUDNESS! and fun go ported! best decision i've ever made. and I'm a JL fan boy
I got the 10 inch in my car paired with a rockford p600x4 amp. I power 2 door speakers and this sub off the rear in bridge mode. This sub is amazing for my needs. I also got the grille just so I don't need to worry about stuff in the trunk hitting the sub. Great sub of your on a budget. Hits harder than a kicker for sure.
I have two of the w0v3 12" subs and they pound pretty hard but have not used them for about 2 years. I currently run 2 ZVX15V2D2 subs on a 4k rms amp. I prefer the sound and air movement from 15" subs.
@@CarAudioFabricationyes please do. You are pretty much the only one on CZcams covering jls. Im new to jl I started with the w0 then upgraded to the w3 powered by alpine s2a1200. Eventually might go up the line.
I got one of these 10s off market place for 40$ just now. Small scuff on the surround but otherwise plays like it’s brand new. Even free air you can tell these are a sound quality woofer
I've had a 10 inch version years ago I needed the space so needed something that fits in a small box. Later when I changed my car I moved to the alpine type r 12 which was in a different league
Currently running 4 10w0v3 in my daily in a custom box tuned 30hz. Running them from a JL RD1500/1. They really pair nicely with the JL C2-650 components powered from the RD400/4 ✌️
At 05:58 it is mentioned that 2 4-ohm subs connected in parallel will present a 2 ohm load to the amplifier, which is 250rms per sub. How is this? How do we manage to route 250rms to one chassis and the other 250rms to the other? is there something like a splitter or what? Do watts say something like "Ok, guys, now, listen! Half of us will go to this sub, the others will go to the that sub. OK? Deal? I am going to the left sub..." Apologies for the oversimplification, but I am trying to understand how this thing works.
Just by definition and ohms law the total power of a circuit is equal to the sum of the power in each component. You always want to use the same voice coil configuration subwoofers in a circuit so that they all see the same amount of power, but simply put if you have a 500 watt amp, and are wiring to the correct load to achieve that 500 watts, the power is simply divided by the quantity of subs.,
Actually, more towards the second. In any circuit with two loops in parallel, the electrons flow faster through the side of least resistance. Here they're both the same so there's no "easier path". Source: I took classes on it at a university.
@@CarAudioFabricationThis is exactly my question: How are they divided? Why do I have the feeling that since the 2 subs and the amp create a "circuit" within which the electric power in watts is not divided, so both subs and their coils "see" the full 500rms, BUT since we have double the "energy consumers" in this "circuit" (two foams, two spiders, 2 coils, etc) the mechanical power is the one that is worn down and sort of split in half (depending on the number of chassis that are connected together)? Without being able to explain it correctly, the amp supplies the system with a certain amount of electric power common for all chassis, however it has to "push" two subs, so since the electric power is a given, what is "divided" is its "mechanical capacity". I don't know...
I’m running this sub in the bass wedge box powered by a MTX Thunder 500 at about 300 rms. My only complaints are there’s almost NO highs and the voice coils get really hot when playing deep rebased and heavy bass songs for long periods of time.
I am planning on putting C2-650 for front speakers and C1-650x for rear and 2 12W0v3-4 sub Would the Pioneer GM-DX975 work? Or is there another amp in the same price range that you would recommend?
Safer/more longevity from the sub and voice coils. I also find that if you bench test their amps, they tend to put out a little more power than stated.
Is 400 watt rms sub better then 150 watt rms sub? Could you test if I have equipment like yours I want do that. Because subwoofers rms power constantly increase but I think this is marketing strategy. I want in my car sub sound but my amps sub channel out is 280 rms at 2 ohm but I want two sub system. What could I do ? One 280 watt sub or two 150 watt sub ? Whats your advice please respond my question. I recently bought audison forza m8.14 bit 8 channel dsp amplifier but this amp two channel bridged 4 ohm 280 watt output power. 2 ohm 140 watt single channel output. Im confused. But I dont want buy another mono amp because I dont want upgrade cars stock electric system.
Not being a troll, I absolutely love your channel and have learned a TON, but can you do some more reviews like this with American made brands? Definitely not saying these are bad at all or that I never buy China products. I know that you have a ton of influence and if you say buy something then people will literally buy it just because you say so because we can all see that you are an expert in your field and do AMAZING work. I just think it would be cool to maybe showcase some budget American made products or even just do a review of some products comparing the different ones made in different countries. Again, not being a Troll and I LOVE your channel, keep up the GREAT work sir!
JL Audio is VERY American made. While this particular line is made overseas it is still fully designed and developed here in the states. Many of the other lines are manufactured in Florida. Definitely see my factory tour video at the following link, thanks for the kind words! czcams.com/video/f2-AkPt6Q-E/video.htmlsi=tNvpjljVOfKPpokO
Make sure it’s 250 watts at 4 ohms and yes you can use a 4 channel in bridge mode and you might could use the other 2 channels for front speakers so a 3 way.
Made in America comes with a price. Simply put in the "entry level" price category it would probably be impossible to compete by building here. With that said it's important to remember it IS designed and the R&D is here in the USA. Unlike many companies that just pick various components and slap their name on. See all the stuff they do make in the USA in my factory tour video! czcams.com/video/f2-AkPt6Q-E/video.htmlsi=tNvpjljVOfKPpokO
@@EscobarAdventures, that’s good because it matters that you are happy. Never seen foam that looked like rubber before. Bet it is better than the kind they used on older sub drivers.
Wish I still had mine wo10" from the late 90's. They were in a sealed box and they were crystal clear with the xtant amp I had. They hit hard for 250 watts running to them. It would put out a lighter they hit hard clean and clear for what it was. Best sounding sub for the money for sure..
I had two of these 10" subs installed in a single ported box for my 2015 Honda Fit. They fit perfectly in the spare tire compartment and produce more than enough thump for my needs. 😉
That's awesome! I've been rocking the 12 in a sealed enclosure for a few months in a personal vehicle, the way JL achieves the smoothest sounding bass is really a testament to their design expertise.
I've JL12w0 first gen. I've bought this speaker 12 years ago and it wose used one. Still banging to this day.
The JL W0 has been a solid choice for decades. I still have four first gen 10W0-8's I use daily. They've been in at least 3 different enclosures and in various combinations.
yyyyyeah I sadly doubt they are built to those quality standards anymore.
@@matthewr.33 yea my got blown out in only two months
I've had one of these for 10+ years and put 1000w rms through it at points and its still going to this day.
I had a pair of 15w0's in 4 cuft sealed powered by an old Kenwood 1021, They just work. affordable, efficient, nice compromise between output/accuracy/low end. A great all round daily use subwoofer
favorite car audio channel fr
Wow! That means a ton! Doing my best to bring you guys tons of valuable fabrication and installation lessons along with product information. Thank you for watching!
One of the old school brands that are still banging !
I have 4 of these in 15” in my hummer. They slam hard for what they are and a rd-1500/1 pushes them with ease.
I ran 3 6W0’s in a slot ported box in a Ford Ranger. It amazed people with how good they sounded.
I have two 10w0v3 in sealed box under my rear truck seats in with the Rockford prime 500.1 and they sound great!
Thanks for the review mark definitively overdue if you could please review other Jl audio subs and amps that would be great
You know it's coming! Thank you
I'm running a 10w0v3 in my mk2 GTI and it is more than plenty in that small car! In a sealed box with 200 watts RMS.
Can anybody help me with this comparison. Here, between the JL Audio 10W0V3 and Morel Primo 104 is about the same price, so which is better then? Thanks 🙏
I had both! 2 12s WOv2 in a sealed box runing a sony xplod 500 watt amplifier back in 2011, in 2020 I updated to 2 15s W0v3 runing a JL JX1000/1D in a ported box. you will have a faster bass respons with the 12 but when it come too LOUDNESS! and fun go ported! best decision i've ever made. and I'm a JL fan boy
The 15's are awesome for digging down deep, I bet that is a fun system!
@CarAudioFabrication it was! I would spend 40 mins outside listening to it. Beast of a system
I got the 10 inch in my car paired with a rockford p600x4 amp. I power 2 door speakers and this sub off the rear in bridge mode. This sub is amazing for my needs. I also got the grille just so I don't need to worry about stuff in the trunk hitting the sub. Great sub of your on a budget. Hits harder than a kicker for sure.
I have two of the w0v3 12" subs and they pound pretty hard but have not used them for about 2 years. I currently run 2 ZVX15V2D2 subs on a 4k rms amp. I prefer the sound and air movement from 15" subs.
Hello ! Can you do a comparison video plz between the W0, W3, W5, W6 and W7 series ??? It would be AWSOME !
Ohhhh I like that. Maybe once I cover all the series and have a sample from each. (No current W5 btw)
I'm interested in the difference on the w0 and w1. On Crutchfield the stats are almost the exact same. Looks like just a different face
@@CarAudioFabricationyes please do. You are pretty much the only one on CZcams covering jls. Im new to jl I started with the w0 then upgraded to the w3 powered by alpine s2a1200. Eventually might go up the line.
I got one of these 10s off market place for 40$ just now. Small scuff on the surround but otherwise plays like it’s brand new. Even free air you can tell these are a sound quality woofer
I have 2 of the 12W0’s on a rd 500.1 with c2 6.5 components and 4 in on an alpine power pack and everything sounds good in my 2000 gmc sierra x cab.
Very nice, the C2's punch way above their value. Love those components.
I have the 10W0v3 in a custom built sealed box with a 400watt Powebass amp in a regular cab Gmc Sierra. More bass than I need as an old guy. Lol
Hands up if you remember the days when these things came in 8ohm variants.
the original dubzeros
Ha ha ha ha. Wow I have two of the 10wO v2-8 ohm subs lol.
I have 2 15 still in box but foam has gone bad over the years
Would be lovely with metrical measuerments also:)
Getting 2 12" installed next week. Sounded really clean in the demo.
I've had a 10 inch version years ago I needed the space so needed something that fits in a small box. Later when I changed my car I moved to the alpine type r 12 which was in a different league
Where is the grilll from
Currently running 4 10w0v3 in my daily in a custom box tuned 30hz. Running them from a JL RD1500/1. They really pair nicely with the JL C2-650 components powered from the RD400/4 ✌️
Wow, that sounds like a fun system! What vehicle?
@@CarAudioFabrication 2011 Volkswagen Golf SportWagen
How do these compare with the Kicker CompVT 43CVT104?
At 05:58 it is mentioned that 2 4-ohm subs connected in parallel will present a 2 ohm load to the amplifier, which is 250rms per sub. How is this? How do we manage to route 250rms to one chassis and the other 250rms to the other? is there something like a splitter or what? Do watts say something like "Ok, guys, now, listen! Half of us will go to this sub, the others will go to the that sub. OK? Deal? I am going to the left sub..." Apologies for the oversimplification, but I am trying to understand how this thing works.
Just by definition and ohms law the total power of a circuit is equal to the sum of the power in each component. You always want to use the same voice coil configuration subwoofers in a circuit so that they all see the same amount of power, but simply put if you have a 500 watt amp, and are wiring to the correct load to achieve that 500 watts, the power is simply divided by the quantity of subs.,
I feel you, same here!. Thanks for pointing it out
Actually, more towards the second. In any circuit with two loops in parallel, the electrons flow faster through the side of least resistance. Here they're both the same so there's no "easier path". Source: I took classes on it at a university.
@@CarAudioFabricationThis is exactly my question: How are they divided?
Why do I have the feeling that since the 2 subs and the amp create a "circuit" within which the electric power in watts is not divided, so both subs and their coils "see" the full 500rms, BUT since we have double the "energy consumers" in this "circuit" (two foams, two spiders, 2 coils, etc) the mechanical power is the one that is worn down and sort of split in half (depending on the number of chassis that are connected together)? Without being able to explain it correctly, the amp supplies the system with a certain amount of electric power common for all chassis, however it has to "push" two subs, so since the electric power is a given, what is "divided" is its "mechanical capacity". I don't know...
Google Kirchhoff's law.
5:59 does the grill affects the performance or it doesn’t matter
Doesn't matter. I have 10TW3 and it's perfectly fine. The grill doesn't impede the flex of the sub, it's more for protection.
Do a video on the jl w6's 🙏
What 2-way 6.5” door speakers do you suggest we pair these with the W0 to get the same bang for buck? JL C1s or something else?
Tell them about the box rise .... don't show those printed numbers...love your work also JL AUDIO ! 13W6 FTW
thank u sir
I'll have to check these our after work!
Time to take a half day ;), be sure to come watch!
@@CarAudioFabrication will do Mark. Thanks!
I’m running this sub in the bass wedge box powered by a MTX Thunder 500 at about 300 rms. My only complaints are there’s almost NO highs and the voice coils get really hot when playing deep rebased and heavy bass songs for long periods of time.
"there’s almost NO highs " - it's a subwoofer...
By highs I mean in the 60 hz up to 80 hz. Everything under 60 it’s amazing.
I am planning on putting C2-650 for front speakers and C1-650x for rear and 2 12W0v3-4 sub
Would the Pioneer GM-DX975 work?
Or is there another amp in the same price range that you would recommend?
Why JL Audio suggests optimum amplifier RMS at 70% of the subwoofer RMS?
Safer/more longevity from the sub and voice coils. I also find that if you bench test their amps, they tend to put out a little more power than stated.
When it comes to car audio how come they dont list free air f numbers? Or f numbers at size of enclosure?
How'd he know this is what I was looking for.
If I would like to use these subwoofers in a home audio system. What amplifier do you recommend I use when building it?
JL Slash 500/1!
Is 400 watt rms sub better then 150 watt rms sub? Could you test if I have equipment like yours I want do that. Because subwoofers rms power constantly increase but I think this is marketing strategy. I want in my car sub sound but my amps sub channel out is 280 rms at 2 ohm but I want two sub system. What could I do ? One 280 watt sub or two 150 watt sub ? Whats your advice please respond my question. I recently bought audison forza m8.14 bit 8 channel dsp amplifier but this amp two channel bridged 4 ohm 280 watt output power. 2 ohm 140 watt single channel output. Im confused. But I dont want buy another mono amp because I dont want upgrade cars stock electric system.
How does it compare with the W3v3?
W3v3 is substantially a better woofer.
Which sub box should be used for W0v3 ?
Ported 35 litters.
Big one
i'm pretty sure i've got one of the 10" versions, it's not bad for it's size
Not being a troll, I absolutely love your channel and have learned a TON, but can you do some more reviews like this with American made brands? Definitely not saying these are bad at all or that I never buy China products. I know that you have a ton of influence and if you say buy something then people will literally buy it just because you say so because we can all see that you are an expert in your field and do AMAZING work. I just think it would be cool to maybe showcase some budget American made products or even just do a review of some products comparing the different ones made in different countries. Again, not being a Troll and I LOVE your channel, keep up the GREAT work sir!
JL Audio is VERY American made. While this particular line is made overseas it is still fully designed and developed here in the states. Many of the other lines are manufactured in Florida. Definitely see my factory tour video at the following link, thanks for the kind words! czcams.com/video/f2-AkPt6Q-E/video.htmlsi=tNvpjljVOfKPpokO
Sir can i run this subwoofer on 4 channel amplifier on bridge mode
question is too generic
It's very simple. The simple answer is yes. Should u? Maybe. Maybe not.
Make sure it’s 250 watts at 4 ohms and yes you can use a 4 channel in bridge mode and you might could use the other 2 channels for front speakers so a 3 way.
Can you explain about deafbonce macheti
Have these always been made in china or is that new? I always thought everything they sell was made in the USA.
I think since at least the W0v2. The original may have been made in USA. Other then that I think you have to step to the W3 line to get made in USA
Made in America comes with a price. Simply put in the "entry level" price category it would probably be impossible to compete by building here. With that said it's important to remember it IS designed and the R&D is here in the USA. Unlike many companies that just pick various components and slap their name on. See all the stuff they do make in the USA in my factory tour video! czcams.com/video/f2-AkPt6Q-E/video.htmlsi=tNvpjljVOfKPpokO
Sure looks like a butyl rubber surround to me.
Nope, foam.
it's foam, i have 2 of them, and they hit hard and clean, cleanest sounding sub for the price.
@@EscobarAdventures, that’s good because it matters that you are happy. Never seen foam that looked like rubber before. Bet it is better than the kind they used on older sub drivers.
Whoa
😮😮😮
Wish I still had mine wo10" from the late 90's. They were in a sealed box and they were crystal clear with the xtant amp I had. They hit hard for 250 watts running to them. It would put out a lighter they hit hard clean and clear for what it was. Best sounding sub for the money for sure..