Survival knives for my family / Bark River Bravo1.5 in 3V
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- čas přidán 4. 03. 2013
- CPM-3V is much tougher in a polished edge. Its factory edge was not very wrong but my polished edge must be much sharper and tougher. CPM-3V resists stropping. Therefore water stones or sandpapers are needed at first.
- Zábava
I like Desert Ironwood the best for a wood handle because it is pretty dense and hard, and doesn't shrink. Bushcraft knives need to be washed long in hot water because it take pine resin. I am anxious about the wood absorbing water. So for my bushcraft knives I prefer micarta. G10 is very heavy and makes the balance pretty handle heavy. I have Chosera 400/800/2000/3000 stones. We definitely need 3 stones at least for reprofiling/sharpening/finishing. So 400/1000/3000 set can do. Thanks.
I like Chosera stones the best to deal with my edges. I use the both hands and change the angle subtly. Chosera stones are completely different than other stones. I am not a knife maker but enjoy water stone sharpening as a hobby. I am happy with the colorful lineup of my stones like I admire various wood handles. Thanks.
Bavo 1.5 is an excellent knife - the dimensions and proportions are just right for strong wilderness knife.
Thanks for the video.
Stay safe!
V-Vice, you are correct that sandpapers won't make a small angle as water stones. That is only true, if you use a hard base for the sandpaper. Otherwise using sandpaper on a flexible base materiel to convex is the
primary choice for the majority of professionals who shape and profile blades.
We are making an emergency set for each of my family whch includes 240mm Silky Gomboy folding saw. I myself don't know how Bravo1.5 works better than Bravo1 in a real urban survival situation. My 3V Bravo1 was sold for good money and I just upgraded it. I have never baton wood for its real purpose like fire making. But I am sure CPM-3V holds its sharpness even when it takes multiple micro chips since the remaining edge is still super sharp. Which is where I like CMP-3V the best. Thanks.
After the deer season finished, I will start making an anti- quake survival set for all of my family members. Thanks.
V-Vice. If you like colorfull stones ,you will love all of the abrasive films that are quite advanced .
They come in all the colors of the rainbow.
:-) :-) :-)
It would be a very simple way of checking on who has a sharper knife. MAGNIFICATION!!!
. A barber, or as anyone sharpening razors , always seems to be better at sharpening than anyone else. That premise, seems to be rule.
Its very easy to talk the talk. Walk the walk , is quite a different matter!
The Bravo 1.5 in 3V is one of the best "survival knife" -mass produced- today, great choice...
I have the 1.5 Bravo Bark River in CPM 3V steel and I love it, I think of all the steels this one is great at both edge retention and ease of sharpening. Great review like always.
Hehehe, Wako. If anyone is preppared it is you with all the knives, flashlights, meat stored and all the skills you posses. But still lets hope that day never comes where you need to use it. All best, and take care.
Man ... when I see how you speak with passion about this knife is like I want to buy it from you ! Passion is everything! I respect you! Adrian from Zürich
No. It burns only with white gasoline. But the current Japanese Coleman Feather 400 stove burns with regular gasoline too for emergency. Thanks.
Bark River communicated that they are skeletonized exactly like the Bravo 1's. The A2 bravo 1.5 is the same pattern as the A2 Bravo 1 and the 3V 1.5 is skeletonized the same as the 3V Bravo 1. My A2 weighs 8.5 oz's versus your 9 oz. 3V perhaps because of the differnt skeletal pattern. Both are natural canvas micarta.
My knives have always been hunting sharp for me. However since Wako's Barber hunting buddy said Wako's knives were "dull" I ask about complete flat. He did admit his knives bite bone..mine do not. My 1.5 3V keeps the stones even across albeit concave.
You have better knowledge about sharpening tools than I have. I am a Japanese and very familiar with water stones from my childhood. My mother had it and many people have it in their kitchen. I first tried a combination kitchen stone of course. But it didn't do agressive chores. Then some CZcamsr from Europe recommended me Chosera stones. It was very strange that I was recommended Chosera from overseas. Anyway I was surprised at its superiority and now I still love it. Nothing complicated.
P😅11qz
Master Wako, I enjoy your videos very much. You are a excellent teacher. Thank You!!!
Nice!
Really would love to see a video about your survival equipment: Food, sleeping bags, cloth, drinks etc. As you live in an earthquake risk country it would be interesting to see how you get prepared. I hope some day you find time to do a review about this. Thank you!
another video please..patiently waiting
I once had Gunny in both 3V and S35VN. S35VN takes edge erosion much more easily than 3V in a small angle like 25 degrees from bone touching for hunting. But I don't think it will happen in a regular use. One of my S30V knives took major chipping from bone touching in a small angle. The erosion of S35VN is shallow and easy to restore. S35VN is a tougher steel than S30V. CPM-3V is very hard and rather difficult to maintain. If it took micro chips, it would need much effort to restore it. Thanks.
Thank you Sir. I appreciate your responses as much as the content of your fine channel.
It is always a good idea to have a plan and gear for unexpected events, and knives are at the heart of this preparation. I hope the forecast for a quake and tsunami turn out to be inaccurate. Always enjoy all of your vids, thanks.
Hopefully you won't ever have to go into survival mode, but being a hunter and gatherer you'll fare better than most, I'm sure.
V-Vice. The chosera stones are not diamond. If they are another gemstone, than it would be softer than the current aluminum or chromium oxides, that are found in most water stones from japan. So there would be no need for gemstones, unless it were to be diamond.
I love my Brave 1.5, mine has the black G-10 handle, I have a set of Barkie's in the A-2, which are in the ghost green jade G-10, now I'm working on my new set with the black G-10, I alway's enjoy watching your video's, I learn so much, Thank You.
I ever owned ESEE6. Its blade is around 5mm thick and not enough to split a thick log efficiently in my opinion. And I don't know BRKT upgraded the sheath of Bravo2. If not, you should not get it. Its Sharpshooter sheath is a bad one because its connecting portion of the loop to the body is narrow and the blade is prone to twisting or going upside down as the narrow portion makes the pivot. If they upgraded it to Great Lakes Leather Works one, it is no problem. Please see it before. Thanks.
There are a multitude ways of convexing all edges. Wako sans technique, is what he prefers. That doesn't translate into the only way. Far from being a fast or efficient way of convexing. But nevertheless, what he prefers.
I believe in wako sans technique, is more the "journey", rather than when you arrive.
Your harder steels like 3V may strop better on leather loaded with diamond compounds. They can be ordered VERY cheaply from a number of places (ebay), and in a number of grits.
VERY NIECE VIDEO. COOL WAY TO GET WARM. HAVE YOU CONSIDERED THE BARK RIVER TRAIL BUDDY AND TRAIL BUDDY 3.
I have had a prejudice for long that a convex edge cannot be sharpened with water stones. But I was taught that it must be sharpened with water stones if I need super sharpness on it by a friend hunter who is a barber and a kind of professional edge sharpener. SInce then I have sharpened many Bark River knives with Chosera stones and all the results are super excellent. I believe other stones than Chosera won't sharpen CMP-3V easily. Thanks.
Wako, how does your friend sharpen his knives, if he thinks yours are dull ? I think your technique is great.
Thank you, VERY much.
I use water stones to restore edge problems, some from the factory and some from my hard uses. Sandpapers won't make as small an angle as water stones make. Chosera 400/800/2000 trio is very nice for the purpose. Only when the steel is very hard like CPM-3V which resists stropping, I use 3000. Stropping never decreases the angle. Once the angle appears larger than my expectation, I always need water stones. Thanks.
No, not yet.
Thanks for the information Wako.
I'm surprised that sandpapers and water stones are the 2 primary sources for your reprofiling.
There are numerous films that have very hard abrasives on them that can rapidly cut and finish the hardest all the way to medium hard steels.
I don't know of your sharpening system. So I say about my stropping. 3V takes 3 times or more of time to stop up. But once it takes the keenest edge, it holds it incredibly long. It's really incredible out of common sense. Thanks.
Ur a good guy thanks for your vids
Katana has a slightly convexed bevel which is made with stones by hand.
Mr. Virtuovice !
I don't know what I like more, the knife or that convex edge you put on it ! I was wondering if by chance you take requests for stone sharping a knife.
Wako with that much snow in the winter there is it expensive to heat your home ? to offset the high cost here I use a Wood stove .... it can be expensive for me to just use natural gas where i live .... Thanks
I now have only a single Bravo1 of which handle is Bamboo on thinner side. It is a nice hunting knife for me. I already sold off the others. Bravo1 is an excellent practical knife. But this Bravo1.5 feels more dependable for survival purpose and looks more handsome. Thanks.
Great review!!!
honest i need the best rust resistance in BRAVO 1 ,this is one the most important things
for my use
and of course the all 3 model they can be sharp very well , thanks for take the time to replay to all my message ,good friend
Have you ever did a full zero on a saber grind and if so how did it hold up...I plan on doing a zero grind on my cold steel Warcraft which is a saber..I have to remove alot of metal as i have already did some grinding which kind of looks pretty ugly at the moment.😒😅😌..and ill do another zero grind on its tanto point...im hoping it becomes extreme sharp and a extreme good slicer..i well add a micro convex if it takes rolls or chips. Good video as always🤗
I am not completely satisfied with sheath throat construction. It is ok but does not keep welt in line with the plane of the knife. A few layer more of leather would be much better...
Thanks for review
Thanks Wako.
I thought it was only appropriate to include a reminder to all those on the net ( who seem to think that there is only one way to sharpen & maintain a convex edge), that there are other ways that IMO are more time efficent (especially for the more abrasion resistant steels).
Kind regards
Mick
No. But I have a little experience with S35VN Gunny. If in a small angle, S35VN takes micro chips as a wide lesion. But even if 3V takes micro chips, its lesion is very tiny and doesn't decrease its sharpness. 3V is pretty rust resistant. Unless I need to carry it for river treking or such, I would prefer 3V to any stainless steels. Thanks.
That seems a reliable, great stove, thanks for sharing!
My 2000 and 3000 stones are almost new and completely flat. My 400 stone is a little hollow viewed from its side. It is still acceptable since my hands tilt a bit during sharpening anyway. But I don't like hollow viewed from my side. It doesn't sharpen the straight portion of the edge well. So I pay attention not to use the center line when sharpening the belly portion not to make the line hollow. Anyway my Extra Large Naniwa Flattening Stone is very nice to make the surface flat. Thank you.
Also the white stropping compounds are usually always more effective ,than a 3000 grit stone is because they usuallly ,are over the 10000 grit size range, to start.
thanks for replay my friend is ok .i will try to buy new one ,but have not decide from the
BRAVO 1 series which one to buy i did see ,the BRAVO 1 in A2 steel for sale new
with deluxe leather with loop for the fire steel ,with Black Canvas Micarta Rampless ,
but i do worry about rust is really bad as in rust resistance, o do i need goo for the S35VN o maby the CPM 3V ,what you suggest ,i do have couple FALLKNIVEN F1 no problem for rust , but i want to get THE BRAVO1 from long time ,
karada ni kiotsukete ne. shinpai surun
It is Coleman Peak1 Feather 400 liquid fuel stove. In winter here a propane stove is useless. Thanks.
Why you don’t use sand paper for convex sharpening?
I almost exactly know how he sharpen Bark River convex edges. He uses a 1000 grit regular stone. He sharpen the edge around 12.5 degrees per side to make a flat micro bevel. And then strop it a bit. So, basicaly his edge is 25 degree micro V edge. My current water stone sharpening is different. I sharpen the total bevel from a high line to make the final convex angle 25 degrees. So, my back bevel behind the apex is thinner than his and my edge cuts better than his now. Thanks.
I have ever read somewhere that Chosera stones comprise artificial gem stones and are very expensive. I have ever tested Chosera #5000, King #6000 and #8000. They were soft stones and when I raised the angle, the edge shaved the surface off. These high grit stones should be used with little power gently like touching up. They made a keener edge than #2000 or #3000 stones. But compared to the white compound stropping they were by far less efficient. #3000 is enough before stropping IMO.
G'day wako
I suggest that your "prejudice" has come predominately from one subforum on the net. After all, Fallkniven (& other individuals including myself) have maintained for many years that a convex edge can be maintained with a stone.
BTW, how were Katana's sharpened in the centuries before mouse mats, sand paper & sharpening compounds?
It always amazes me to see all the shit and effort put into sharpening a knife , is this how bark river do it? I think not , so why not purchase a machine similar to what they use ?
They are Naniwa Chosera stones. Thanks.
Im looking at purchasing the 1.5 for general purpose camp knife. I just cant decide...Gunny looks very nice too!!!
I need the both for general outdoor purposes and for emergent survival. And I rather don't need Bravo1 for those purposes. After having Bravo1.5, Bravo1 looks like a hunting knife to me. Thanks.
I have never experienced rust on my CPM-3V Bark River knives. But some years ago I had Fehrman Peacemaker knife made of 3V. Its Kydex sheath didn't have a water drainage hole on its bottom and the blade took heavy rusty marks like water drops left in the sheath in wet over night. CPM-3V will rust if treated wrong.
Anyway CPM-3V holds extensively long and long. But its geometry is extensively fat and fat. Please imagine slowly and deeply about all the issues. I took 3V only for its edge holding.
My 3V is 9.0 ozs. I didn't know its tang is skeletonized. I did Xray to it and the front section before the first pin is left not skeletonized. Anyway the knife feels very nice in the hand. Thanks.
Must you have all those different stones? Isn't there a faster easier way to keep the edge on knives?
You and your family could always come live with us, if the things get really bad with an earthquake.
Are your knives still becoming very sharp?
I would say one draw back would be that you will never develop a consistant muscle memory for sharpening as the media (stone surface) is always changing.
For the cost of the stones, a good diamond flattening stone is well worth the cost. Use a pencil to draw a grid and flatten until there is no more pencil.
Look up "JkinifeImports" here on YT, he sells a great diamond flattening stone and also has great vids on using water stones.
I use Naniwa Chosera 400/800/2000/3000 stones for general purposes. When I need to grind off more metal, I use Shapton 120 and Naniwa Super 220 stones. Thanks.
I have the same exact knife in A2. I choose to sharpen with a micro bevel for my woods survival knives since I feel it is more durable. Perhaps not as sharp. I would also prefer it more if it did not have a skeletonized tang like my Bravo 2 which weighs 14 oz's. What is the weight of your 3V 1.5? My A2 is 8.5 oz's. Gram weight is fine as I will convert.
No. But it looks fascinating to me when it has slight color gradient. Thanks.
Thank You I found that very useful...I enjoy your channel...My Best
So . There are no burgers or crime in japan. Thanks for the info. Tfoshohoe
It is 6 inches. Thanks.
Do you have also Bravo 1.5 LT? If yes which one you prefer?
Exactly how important is it for stones especially 2000-3000 to be COMPLETELY flat? I have never flatened my stones...am I missing out?
Boy is that the truth about cash and who is in love with it. Again same over here. All gear...no cash....wife happy.
so you would be using a a 410 slug would that be a rifled slug we have to keep our rifles and shotguns locked up and rifle ammo in a lock box ,shotgun ammo has only has to be kept say under the bed or in cupboard unless shotgun slug
What type of Japanese waterstone are you using? Thanks.
Many of wood scales shrink more or less. Stabilized Burl seems no prone to shrinking. Desert Ironwood and Bamboo seems less prone. Spalted Maple Burl shrinks much. Curly Birch is prone to bending. Protruded tang and pins are annoying when the shrinkage gets over a certain level. Anyway when you get not to be patient with the shrinkage, BRKT will restore it for free. So you had better take your favorite handle more than thinking of the shrinkage problem too much. Thanks.
thanks ,and the BRAVO in CPM-3V is ok as rust resistance
I agree on that. As many times said, Bark River convex on Bravo knifes is maybe too "thin" to be reliable on heavy duty use. I did two small bends on edge of my Bravo 2 when chopping a dry oak bough and it hit small ingrown knag.
So there is two advices from me - for heavy duty, buy another knife (or rather axe :)), of at least do small bevel.
But I suggest the first option, because Bark River convex could be sharpened to incredible sharpness.(At least with Bravo knifes, so far not on my Aurora)
The current Bravo sheath by Great Lakes Leather Works is decent. The Deluxe Leather Sheath by Sharpshooter is super excellent. Current Bravo handle is angular in cross section and kind of hand filling and locking. It will be nice for bushcraft. A2 takes spotty rust in a wet leather sheath in half a day. 3V is semi stainless but it is 1 ounce heavier than the others and not nimble because of its less skeletonized tang and fat geometry. I think S35VN is yours. It is tougher than S30V for sure.
hello my friend i been watch many of your video ,all very nice and very interesting ,
i will like to buy the BARK RIVER BRAVO 1 in S35VN o in CPM 3V,
i will like to ask you from the two what you suggest ,i want the one as the best rust resistance , and what you can tel me about the two as in difference ,like hold the edge
easy to maintain ,please let me no thanks my friend ,
In Japan are you allowed to store your Rifle in your house? And you said in another another video you use a 410. Its not a 410 shotgun though, right?
V-VICE. Cutting steel in an aggressive manner ( hand powered), can also be obtained by diamond sintered or diamond Coated plates that are of similar
dimensions to the water stones. I would highly recommend the water stones in a higher mesh or grit size to finish the edge.
I'm very surprised that these products are not mentioned. I realize that the stones that you have recommended, are best, in your opinion!
There are literally hundreds of combinations that in many others opinions, do the job
This is a very nice knife. My main edc is the bark river necker 2 in cpm cv. I like this steel very much, I also have a highland special a2. I will get the chosera stones very soon, to make sharpening easier. Good information as always
Say Heah Virtuvice, I like Choils on Knives, But on knives without Choils I like the ramp. Lemme explain. You place your thumb over tge ramp so you don't push it with your thumb. Sometimes I do when I make a divot. But mostly I place my thumb over tge ramp to sort of choke up on it. I love my 3V Bravo 1.5. But as far as a Bush Craft Survival Knife style of knife. I love my Fox Parang Bushcraft Jungle Knife in the Austrian Bohler N690Co Stainless Steel. It's Stain Resistant good in wet conditions and it has a Choil with a nice continuous curve to slice with. Infact I permanently attached my Mora Kansbol to the sheath for a Outstanding combo.,,. p
Wako, I am curious to know if you have held or used a Bravo 2. I was considering the Bavo 1.5, or Bravo 2 and the Esee 6 for a large knife purchase. Thanks!
I have an esse 5 an izulu ii and an Ontario rtak2. they are great knives durable and easy to sharpen. the downside is the coating. its rough and doesn't lend well to slicing. but its also necessary because 1095 has very little corrosion resistance. the main benefits of the bravo would be its slicing potential and its corrosion resistance. v3 is more difficult to sharpen than 1095 but neither are very difficult. v3 holds the edge longer. hope this helps.
Wako, I'd love to see you review the TOPS BOB fielcraft knife. To see how it compares to the rest of your collection.
Sharpshooter's Deluxe sheath for my Bravo1 is better as you say. Thanks.
Do you think the LT version of the 1.5 is a great Allrounder for Bushcraft/Survival Tasks too?
I really want a Bravo 1.5, I love it. But I think I don’t like the thickness of it. In the LT version it seems to be more classy and not that Monster Truck like 😅
By the way, great Video!!! As all of your Videos ;)
Thanks for the Review!
wow, i had read that there was a lot of snow in northern japan this year, up to 5m accumulation in some areas, so I was wondering how you were doing. Good thing you have plenty of meat put away!
Hi Virtuovice, when sharpening your knives, how do you know which side needs a little more touching up. When I use the water stones and then use the finger/thumb test one edge feels sharper than the other. For example, I am holding the blade with the cutting edge facing upward. I use my thumb and glaze across the blade left and right. If the right side (right to left) is dull, does it mean its the right side needs more work or the left?
I have never thought about my sharpening as you do. So I have never thought which side of the bevels needs more touch up. Thanks.
its called a burr it mouves left to right till its gone
+The Saint i have found the best way to avoid such a burr is to simply go back and forth each side on the strop, for each repetition.. rather than multiple times on one side then switching. left right left right left right etc... stropping / sharpening in this manner gives maximum sharpness, minimum burr, and even sharpness from either side in my experience. this can also help prevent one from blunting the edge by over emphasizing one side of the blade.
You will need at least 2 stones which are #600 and #2000. I need 4 stones of 400/800/2000/3000 for faster and finer finish. Thanks.
@virtuvoice hay you looked at the les stroud survival knives ? He also has a new line of hunting/skinning knives. It would be interesting to see someone like you put those knives through the paces and see how they hold up
So you prefer the CPM steels over conventional steels? I hear the CPM steels don't sharpen as easy as conventional steel such as 1095 or A2. In the field 1095 can be sharpened with a river rock.
3V and Elmax are harder to sharpen than A2 or 1095 obviously, but they hold extensively longer than regular steels. So I highly depend on their super durability for critical situations. Thanks.
It is very correct. CPM-3V holds by far longer than A2 or S35VN. But I am curious if you really need such long edge holding sacrificing something else. I personally need it for 3 day urban survival. Anyway take care!
In other words, back in the dark ages before "the Wather Mitty's" took over the net?
Shapton 120, Naniwa Super 220, Naniwa Chosere 400/800/2000/3000.
Hello friend please let me ask you other questions! Great knives! I'm looking to buy a bark river bravo but don't know if i should buy the 1 or the 1.5. My problem is that I want a knife for all around use, but I really like backpacking(mountaineering) and cooking with my knife, so I'm afraid that the bravo 1.5 is too big(bulky maybe) for thease kind of use. I'm afraid of loosing the precision of the knife. Do you think that the bravo 1.5 could be a pain in the ass for someone that is going to carry it in a belt for a long walk? Another question is about those original tumb ramps on the back(spine) of the knife do you think that they could be a bad thing? Thx a lot bro I hope you keep making such good videos! See u
First of all the ramp is definitely a bad thing.
Bravo 1.5 is definitely too long for cutting jobs physically. It is just a nice batoning wedge. Bravo1 is too thick for cutting jobs and I prefer Bravo1 LT. Bravo1.25 from The-Knife-Connection can fit your needs though I have never had it. Field models have a sharp hurtful jimping on the spine and you should avoid it. Thanks.