1758 How To Make A Nano Carbon Infra Red Heater
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 11. 2022
- Don't forget to check out Luke's channel found here / @tntomnibus
If you want to have a look at those special videos become a member and join by clicking this link / @thinkingandtinkering
Don't forget that you can buy my books and materials for your own experiments including our conductive inks at secure.workingink.co.uk/worki... - and for the many who have asked, yes, you can also donate to further our work, again through the shop. - Věda a technologie
The thing with conduction is that when you the person moves, they get cold pretty quickly because the air you are now moving through is cold in comparison. Which is why we heat places and not people. If you are going to be sedentary for a time, then conduction plus an extra layer of clothing works just fine. Most home electric heaters at 1,500W are barely acceptable for even a fairly small area. I'm in Canada, so our wall voltage is 120V/60hz, not your 230V/50hz of the UK. I use an oil filled electric radiator set at a 750W to keep my well house from freezing up in the winter months, and nothing but wood heat for my house (2,400 sq ft), at roughly a $150 - $200 a year for as many cords as I can manage to get if I go into the bush and get the wood myself. If I buy it (because I'm getting on for 70, so that's now a distinct possibility), the cost will go up many times for a cord of wood. About $1,000 for three cords split and delivered. Three years ago it was only $125 a cord. 12V will require a battery (to be recharged often for each heater if used concurrently) or a voltage converter (for each heater unit) for wall current. A Canadian made step-down transformer will cost anywhere between $200 and $450 cdn. So this "nano" Carbon fiber cloth puts out a wavelength of 780 nm-1mm? Which is right in the ball park for medical use (700 - 1000 nm). Something I already do...and it works very well, but uses LEDs rather than cloth. The construction of your experimental heater is rather bulky. Do you have a way of it being just as efficient but quite a bit smaller in size? A most interesting video.
I once worked as an R&D technician for an aerospace company, where we were developing aircraft ice protection based on a glass/thermoplastic composites. Our initial resistance method was to metal spray first copper, as the conductor, then overspray that with a nickel based alloy called "Centanin". Later on in the process we were looking at using carbon based inks to spray, or screen print the elements, which was not only quicker, but much finer definition. This was proposed as a way to heat some, temperature critical components "locally" rather than a whole assembly.......then cane the 2008 banking debacle........you can guess the rest...☹️
That would be a great insert into a sand battery for heat storage. Some where in the northern hemisphere there is someone rubbing their hands together to keep warm, wondering why you didn't mention friction heating. LOL. You are an amazing teacher.
I'm not sure about that. You want very very high temperatures to exploit potential of a sand battery.
@@oakld When you are considering commercial potential, I would say yes. But I have learned not to count on Gov't or commercial entities. When considering a solution, I consider the adaptability and replicability for the single user. Considering all the potential applications and scale, can't be posted on forums like this. A single household with a solar and or wind generator system, might be able to use this as a dump load feature to a sand battery and recover the heat at night for a home heating system. 👍
@@stewartpalmer2456 I'm for small businesses and even DIY. But one should understand the basics, physics and the math behind. IMHO, heating sand "battery" to low temperatures is like hammering a nail with a handle of a hammer. You simply need high temperatures to make it efficient and meaningful. And I don't know where you live, but we have no meaningful wind conditions and solar is 10x weeker during winter, so you won't even cover all appliances, let alone heating.
@@oakld I understand what you are saying. The sand battery I'm thinking about would be more of a subsurface floor heating system. If you have a load dump you can divert it into any of a myriad of storage systems. I'm thinking of carbon fiber reinforced concrete flooring. It's very hard to put every thought into these types of forums. Lay down a sheet of carbon fiber, place your electrical contacts, then thin coat concrete over the top of any existing structure.
@@stewartpalmer2456 Well, maybe I simply don't get your idea :-). Why to use sand, for what you've described? Most of soils would do a better job, wouldn't they? You can "charge" even ordinary ground, this effect is used in earth-water type heat pumps. But experiments were carried out with a soil enclosed in an insulated "box", something like what you have in mind, if I'm not mistaken. In any case, you want to control amount of heat retrieved from such a "battery", to avoid overheating your house, meaning you'd typically have some kind of heat exchanging loop. The same thing is for charging. By the way, if you charge it with heat pump, you'll might get like 500% efficiency, because such battery will allow you to choose favourable conditions for charging. But it's becomming a general true, that the best heating is the one you don't need. A passive house is a way to go. I have a low-energy house (heat losses about 2,5 times higher than what standards defines for a passive house of my house size). I have a solar system and getting heat pump, I can cut down energy bills a lot, but it's only so much you can do with the heat loss (even that small) my house have. I plan to do some smaller improvements on heat losses, like insulating the tip of the attic where recuperating ventilation unit sits, putting extra screen in front of my only double pane window (all the rest are tripple panes, this one is a roof window), etc. Everyone should start with those things and prevent a need for excessive heat in the first place.
Infra red heaters are popular in the construction industry for drying out plaster, paintwork and after water ingress for example. I presume because of the lower power consumption and less chance of a fire when left unattended.
As I understand it though: Traditional infra-red heaters (like you might get in a pub smoking area) mostly give out near-infrared, which gives that you that baked-alive feeling. Whereas supposedly far infra-red heaters feel more like pleasant warm sunshine.
This should be an absolute boon for car camping, etc...
I've been experimenting with a 250watt infrared bulb I used to keep my chickens warm with. I like the idea of 72 watts much better.
Excellent. Thank you.
Great idea but d cells would be exhausted quickly. A mini heating pad in direct contact with you in a sleeping bag would be much more efficient, needing less Watts to heat you in that configuration.
@My Dixie Wrecked🔨 and catch fire. Seriously, though, in a small space like a backpacking tent or bivvy, heated air is better as there's always a condensation problem in such a situation.
Hello Robert, I sit in a folding law chair in my home sitting on a heating pad. I wear a warm coat, cover up my head, and add a blanket over my legs. This keeps me very warm with a small consumption of electricity. Only my nose gets cold.
what about your water pipes?
we really don't have to worry too much about that mate - it rarely drops to freezing here
That's a new idea for Robert- A Nose Warmer
@@ThinkingandTinkering I wish
we have had below freezing temperatures here for weeks already
@@rayg436 Hi Ray. Thank you for the opportunity to chat more. I keep the house at 55 degrees Farenheit to keep pipes from freezing when below 32 Deg F, and the Kitchen located Refrigerator pumping freon gas freely through it's coiled pipes at above 50 Deg F. as recommended by the refrigerator manufacturer. Hope that helps. Enjoy your Day. : )
I like the longer style explaining and then actually getting down to it. Makes for a nice change. Having them separate isn't conducive to learning.
Smack two brain cells together and get a spark of intelligence. ;-)
Heh. Growing up in Houston, I am used to living in a swamp. 80-90% of all heat transfer in a swap is via convection as the humid air passes heat from surfaces exposed to the sun to everywhere else. The first time I went into the desert, visiting a friend in Las Vegas, was educational. I played it up for my friends back home, but being cooled by evaporation of sweat into still air and noticeably warmed by exposure to sun and cooled by shade were honestly novel experiences for me.
Robert Murray Smith the hero of brits this winter!
*i've already built a methanol heater in a baked bean can*
*first 2 lasted under a hour the third one using a metal toilet brush holder as a grill*
*lasted 3 hours and 15 mins so i'm delighted*
Same here, mine only lasting one hour, I have a mantle on too
I'm starting mine this week! Can't wait to see how it works out. Did you use the Carbon Felt wick Robert made his out of in 1702, or did you go for the old sock method in 1746?
@@Warriorking.1963 i'm still waiting for my carbon felt to be delivered but i used green floral foam bought from hobby craft for £1.50.
@@Liverpoollatest i think or should i say i have found if you put the tin into a long metal tube like a metal toilet brush holder then put a metal cutlery holder bought from ikea with holes in over the toilet brush holder it suppress the flame and causes the oxygen to get sucked in the two separate containers holes, this method was my successful long burn.
as i'm writing this i have another one on the go just over the 2 hour mark now.
Just check the monoxide level as mine is fine no mantle add the mantle and it triggers the alarms. Also I am lucky to get an hour out of mine. And yes that's with carbon felt. I am a bit gutted as I bought 100ltrs of methanol for winter and i can't get long out of 500ml fills.
I tried mixing water into the methanol and 50/50 mix 125ml water and 125ml methanol did burn longer but didn't produce good heat. Trying 100ml water to 200ml methanol did 45min. So sadly the videos are fake. As I can either pay more for methanol than gas central heating or die of monoxide poisoning. I really wanted the tin can heater to be real but it's not economical
A lot of these videos are ingenious and enjoyable to watch, but I think the same message can be learned from all of them, i.e., if you're a single-parent family or senior citizens living in high flats or tennement buildings there simply are no heaters available to heat your home that won't cost you a fortune to run.
Warming people is obviously the logical answer. However, in the UK for a variety of reasons including: Aging housing stock, cheap construction standards, clothes drying and legacy industry subsidence issues.... we as a nation have terrible damp problems. We need to heat property's for comfort AND to keep the damp at bay
Looks like a fun project! Thanks, and best wishes to you!
Thank You Robert for such a great channel, where people can discuss science and great ideas..
Knowing you have a bit of a penchant for all things carbon, this is exactly why I suggested this one the other day mate, glad to see this video, really been looking forward to it (although I didn't expect it would involve sewing!).
Still got a tonne of your conductive ink lying around here from previous experiments, so keen to see anything that involves that too. I wonder if low voltage infra red wallpaper could be a possibility even! Infra red hearers really are a bit more unusual which always keeps me interested! Thanks as always for your informative and helpful work!
I am on that today mate - cheers
Guys - really great work here.
Now , 1. Today’s carbon felt heater - are we feeling the IR form the carbon material itself; or from the galvanized metal ?
What if we bond the felt to the metal; can we turn the metal into a radiating panel ?
Putting up galvanized sheet metal on walls of my Shop / Garage atm.
I wonder if I could apply a current across them to turn them into radiant panels… safely of course.
Or, perhaps it’s better to build radiant panels as stand alone items. Hang on the wall, or ceiling.
I think we need high Emissivity finish. Not sure how galvanized metal (shiny) performs.
Now - off to research your conductive ink ?? Never heard of this !
A Big Thank You. Will be using 'this' as the basis to solve a long standing heating 'problem' that I've been struggling to find a solution for. Brilliant - just brilliant!
Two thoughts.
1) if you put the slotted holes at the bottom, the weight of the firebrick will tighten the carbon ribbon.
2) A 12 volt system means that you can run this with a solar panel in an off grid situation or run it off a deep cycle marine battery.
Question on the Ugrinsky turbine; will that work in the same way a screw turbine works?
I like your thoughts Scott. Seems you are using the gray matter between your ears. Nice job fella too.
Bullet Point one...Excellent Idea! Bullitt point two, that is exactly what I was thinking! The more we can get away from inverters to convert form DC to AC the more efficient we are. Excellent points both! Thank you for sharing!!
@@jackallen6261
You're welcome.
@@victoryfirst2878
That's only true as long as my brain doesn't go into mad genius mode.
Fortunately, that's only happened once.
The fire brick may not be heavy enough to get it tight enough. Unless you use the fireplace type which is denser and more brittle. Harder to customize.
One thing else with the 12v system, if you're power goes out and you have no solar panels or other "off grid" power generators you can run a length of wire from your car to power it. Of course you'd have to run the engine so you don't drain the battery. Not the first choice or an economical one but in an emergency situation it's another option.
Great video, learnt a lot from this so thanks for that, will definitely be looking into this type of heater
I camped with a conductive heater. Actually 2 car seat heaters, running on a 12v marine battery. Drew about 70 watts, kept me toasty warm all night. Was in the 20's F outside.
Every time I watch your videos. Same reaction everytime WOW!! I really appreciate your knowledge you share with us all. Thank you so much. Good work 👍😄
you've just essentially created a heater that could technically run off of USB type c and if you attached a sand battery to that with a copper thermal distribution pipe, you could have a very nice creation. thermal pipe is copper pipe with a wick inside and 15% water or acetone to the length of the pipe. If you boil the liquid from the closed end until vapor shows, you quickly close and seal the opening and let it cool. you now have a vacuum sealed pipe that can near instantly transfer heat across to where you want it to go like a wire for heat.
Basically, it's a heat pipe.
@@vanbrown6663 that's the other name for it. Everything has more than one name. Thanks for sharing 🙂
Thanks, this would be great for off grid or even camping.
Love this. Your videos are so interesting and inspiring! 😊 thank you.
Sir, your ideas are very useful! I am very happy following you, that is very inspirational for me.Thank you be health!
cheers mate
Next time you pass by your scrapper, grab a few diesel glow plugs. They can get your motor block heated up enough in a few seconds, they should be fine as "radiator" maybe stuck in a metal plate.. or to heat a sand battery (metal rod) with intermittent solar/grid power.
Still love the ink wall heater from long ago.. gotta ton of what I think is graphene in powder format
Can't wait to get your book on conductive inks
Love the channel
We use conductive paint in screening the cavities of electric guitars. Has been in use for decades...
Basically any kind of matt paint - matt black is the norm - or PVA glue; a bag of graphite dust and make up a mix and paint on, with regard to a screen, one screw with an eye-terminal is all that is required, with the eye-terminal wired to the screen/earth of the jack socket.
@@Deebz270 This sounds quite interesting. But I’m not sure I understand- any chance you could provide more detail ? Thanks much.
@@Deebz270 I use to do the exact thing with guitars in the nineties. My boss thought I was a genius but I told him that this is real old technology.. Now with nanomaterial the life expectancy of light is way longer and more vivid. Thanks for bringing back memories that were real cool and priceless..
That's awesome Mr.Smith! 👍👍
Hello Robert
I am sitting here in the southern antipodes
( sub tropical NSW) and wiping perspiration from my brow - watching your very inspiring channel …again.
We are heading into another hot and humid summer! So your IR heater will possibly be shelved until we do some caravanning into the outback next winter!
😬 I’m working on a satellite (foiled) dish solar heater atm - also very keen on your rocket heater design…. Which would be great on the desert where firewood is very scarce.
Cheers and thankyou
Ian
Hello Robert, Here in the U.S.A. I purchased on line at A****n Prime a round 24 inch tower graphite glass tube infrared heater which is low cost about 79 U.S. now ( I paid 52 U.S. last winter). This graphite in a glass tube heater is low power which pulls 210 watts 120V AC 60Hz on Low and 420 watts 120V AC 60Hz on High. My retired resistive heater was pulling 900 watts 120V AC 60Hz on Low and 1,500 watts 120V AC 60 Hz on High. This heater used a lot of electricity KW and the cord of this heater got very hot, which was a fire concern, not so with the graphite in a tube vertical stand heater. This efficient heater cord is always cold to the touch. Setting on my fireplace hearth when not in use, I shine the very hot narrow infrared vertical beam produced by this efficient heater onto the side of a standing upright 6" Diameter X 24 " Long vitrified orange clay round flue liner. Standing the round clay flue liner on a couple fire brick allows space to have cold floor air draft by convection into the bottom of the round flue liner and heated air to drift out the top of the chimney liner warmed by the very efficient graphite in a glass tube infrared heater basking the clay flue liner's outer surface. Later I added a 4 inch 13 watt 120V AC 60 Hz metal desk fan to nest between the base bricks with the prop facing up to the ceiling pushing air up and out of the 6 '' clay flue liner pipe. This configuration blows quietly the warm air across the sheet rock ceiling here radiating and adding thermal mass to balance the room's heat. I use a reptile thermostat with a remote digital heat sensing bulb to control room temp to within one degree, which makes for an efficient stable room heater providing comfort for less money turning on and off as up/down outdoor temperatures chill the room. Hope this easy to assemble design helps save others on heating costs, offers safer heating and provides comfort. David from Freeland, Maryland U.S.A.
Very Smart! Stay warm
That is fantastic. Thanks for sharing that.
@@allanjacques1738 Thank you for the kind reply. The heater I use is a Sengoku HeatMate SH-G420A(W) Instant Heat Graphite Tower Heater, Medium, White with two year extended warranty. The thermostate used was an Inkbird ITC308 Freezer Thermostat Heating Cooling Plug Temperature Controller Outlet 110V 1200W Digital Temp Control for Greenhouse Heater Cooler Reptile Brewing Fermentation Kegerator Probe. The fan used was a Holmes Mini High Velocity Personal Fan, HNF0410A-BM
Just maybe, Yankee Ingenuity has not ended. ; )
As Robert mentioned in the video, infrared/radiative heating is best (most efficiently) used for direct skin heating. And the best of those are the ones with a shiny/reflective dish that very efficiently direct the IR towards whatever direction you want it.
If inexpensive is what one is looking for, nothing better than Solar heat collectors if one gets enough direct sun on their property (we don't unfortunately, otherwise I would build some).
@@justinw1765 Agreed. My experience with the infrared heater has been the same as an outdoor fire pit on a cold winter night. When bathed in infrared heat you are freezing cold on one side scalding hot on the other. Here....this design takes advantage of the very efficent but uncomtorable graphite glass tube infrared directed heat produced and converts the heat to warming the rooms air most effectively, most comfortable at a low cost. A restive metal element infrared heater technology as you suggest with a reflective surface to direct the heat would not be a benefit as the amps consumed are high. The graphite is inexpensive to run hourly at such low watts and when converted to convective heat is most comfortable to experance in a large area outside the very narrow vertical slit infrared directed beam cast onto the clay flue liner in close proximate. The deficiency of this graphite in a vertical glass tube with reflector technology's design is again this type heater hurts the skin like a burning of flesh by fire or hot liquid. The clay flue liner, so far has not cried out in pain. Thank you for the opportunity to explain the not so obvious benefit of converting low cost to operate graphite filament infrared heat technology to convection heat at a low componet cost. Hope that explanation helps my intent as to why to convert an efficent directed and very concentrated slit infared graphite produced tight beamed heat source into a whole room convection heater. Please take note that just 210 watts on Low / 420 watts on High 120 AC V are used to heat the room's air effectively. The encapsulayed graphite infrared heater technology compared to the past metal strip open air element technolgy consumes much lower watts and high heat BTU and is produced comparable to the always inefficent metal resistive element infrared heaters of the past.
Brilliant! Aside, on this side of the pond we pronounce tow as would toe. Keep it up Rob!
Moose from Minnesota live in Frostbite Falls , Bullwinkle , and his Buddy Rocky , the Flying Chicken of the Tree !
Nano nano. Isn't that a Mork from Ork greeting?😁
Shazzbatk
Another fascinating video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Robert you rock man! Im gonna give this a shot!
hold that thought mate - I have a better one you will like more I think lol
Thank you for this. It's a really interesting idea.
I'd like to release an idea of mine for personal heating: A hotwater bottle papoose to hold a hot water bottle over the core and heat that therefore the rest of the body. You have a better reach than I do to get this info out and help those who can't afford to, to stay warm this winter.
Another fantastic video thank you (hope those kids are watching now). Question, could you use the carbon material you used as a wick ?
Thoughts on the topic:
Especially in rooms you also need warm/dry air. A infrared heater in the end also heats everything and the air, but if you are cozy warm in the direct exposure you might reduce the overall room temp too much and get humidity and mold in corners and behind objects. Cabinets. Everything not directly hit stays a lot colder.
Special radiator paint actually radiates more IR than normal paint, even the white one.
The quarz tube heaters are "better" over this because of the higher temperature they run at. The units come in 2 or 3 power setting modes up to 2100W with a bit of variance for the single tubes from 500W to 750W.
(Will of course need a inverter and lots of Amps at 12V/24V)
I dont know the spare part value of a single tube because in over 30 years i never had a single broken one. If you buy a complete unit with 2 or 3 tubes it costs around 35 to 60 bucks. So i'd assume 15 bucks or less for a single tube.
As a reference to get a mid sized bathroom (2.5m from from door to tub) normal/cold to cozy after showering a 750W quarz tube is enough. (Dont forget the shower/tub also brings in heat) The IR heater mounted above the door and you really feel the heat.
The basic room heating still done by the radiator.
Now instead of the carbon i would be interested in a low voltage"glowing" version, made by cutting apart the resistive wire in a 230V AC version. You can get them for 20 bucks. If you cut the wire into more then 10 pieces you are in the area of 24V volts.
I will need to check if the resistive wire i have for making resistors already dies when glowing (oxidization).
Temperature expansion between hot/cold also might be an issue.
Other options: normal resistors get up to 85°C at their rated load, so too low for good radiation.
Halogen light bulbs /car might work at 75W each, you dont really want the light but they are really cheap, maybe paint them red.. i dont know if they break if you coat them with matte black.
Forgot to add this in the comment:
For the humidity issue, breathing people inside a closed room, a dehumidifier is sensibel. A real one. Since they tend to work with a cold (condensation) and hot side they also convert a bit of electric power into room heat over all.
Turn Signal lights might work better over halogen, they are more robust+rugged for switching. Dimming via PWM to find the wanted heat emission point. And some already come in orange paint. Or the old infrared animal heater / medical bulb...
Nichrome wrapped around ceramic rods with a curved reflector is easier. we used to strip toasters of their heating elements before vaping wire and the controller chips were easily available.
Ready-made 'Clapton' wire seems to work the best for us.
so I could use this in my Igloo!! perfect!!
THX Sir! as I got input from your very inspiring videos I think over a cheap Powerstove with a 25kg Sandbuffer insulated and and top a n output for warm air or direct to a Peltier😎 thinking of the poor an freezing
Great video
I made a 10 watt heated jacket using by sewing in nano carbon fibre strips and power with a usb powerbank. I dont use it though as it just makes more sense to dress correctly.
@My Dixie Wrecked🔨 I think they are in 30 to 40 watts and work off 12v. I made one myself because I wanted it to last 8 hours and run on 5 volts. They're pretty good if your stood still but when you get busy you warm up anyway.
Great idea
@@davidmowbray6352 they make sense if you HAVE to be sedentary for long periods in very cold weather, even better if you can get insulating layers over the top. Helpful with my remote work desk based job. I'm making a little foot heater with 2 X 7W medical heating elements, a steel sheet and a thermostatic relay switch
@My Dixie Wrecked🔨 get some carbon fibre or nichrome wire heating element and play around with putting different voltages through differing lengths until you get a element temperature that doesn't burn too hot, then using a multimeter you can figure out how much heat is being emitted and add more elements.
@@davidmowbray6352 There is a guy in Canada who has a house heated that way using 24 volts and different lengths of wire for the right temperature he even invented a controller.
This is great, may build one. We have electric baseboard (skirting board) heaters, our power is from hydro on Vancouver Island Canada.
I keep a couple of different types of heaters for when (a few times of year, storms etc) the power goes out (hours to days - out of town lol) and we are on generator power.
However, in humid places if you don't heat the air and have some fresh air that also gets heated, mould sets in pretty quickly.
I like the diesel heater idea, but diesel/heating oil is more expensive than petrol. I like a lot of the other oil and rocket heaters, the coolest is the "safety" heater you made.
👍😎
Ah, now I'm beginning to understand why some Radiant heater manufacturers' products start at $400-600 for their base units. Part materials (carbon fiber) and part to be able to enter the market as 'Premium" products (like Dyson).
(I come back again!) We can also make a lactoserum dryer with it to harvest whey protein for a low cost of energy. Industries throw a lot of it.
We can make a bucket with many layers of that carbon sheet inside (isolated for security & for the elctric current doesn't damage the food & the equipment) so that lactoserum is captures into thin warm layers oh carbon heater. That way it will dry fast for a small amount of energy. And at the end we get that precious protein powder supply!
And of course we can just make a box like the oven to dry fruits & vegetables. For the one who get lots of tomatoes feom their garden in summer i guess that's a much easier way to conserve them for winter than by cooking it and storing it in jars.
Nano-awesome! 👏
lol
I have a heated gilet/vest which I had to fix last week (cable separated from the power button). I'm pretty certain it's using carbon threads like this woven into a couple of pads to generate the heat. Seems like it probably wouldn't be terribly difficult to make some pads yourself if you have that carbon thread stuff (can't remember what you called it EDIT: carbon fibre tow), sew them into any clothing, and just attach them to a USB power bank. After checking the resistance etc and making sure they can't get too hot. If you have the threads at the correct resistance in parallel on each pad then one failing shouldn't affect the maximum contact temperature I believe?
If you want an excellent IR Heater, get the parabolic IR heater from harbor freight. I used to use that thing to train Kung Fu up in a very frigid attic, in the middle of the winter. The attic had almost no insulation... and so you could see your breath, if it got cold enough up there. Normal space heaters, couldnt work hard or fast enough, to heat the attic, nor the people within it. But the dish IR Heater, would easily heat your dark clothing and skin, even as much as 12 to 15ft away from it. Im talking a very Toasty level of warmth.. to the point where it almost felt uncomfortable at times. To help with that, I set it on the auto-swivel mode... which also helped heat the others I was training with up there.
I agree that the parabolic IR heaters are the best IR heaters. They are very efficient at directing the IR to a certain direction.
Would just add that it doesn't matter what color the clothing is. IR light isn't like visible light in that respect--colors don't really affect absorption--black and white in visible light spectrum are about equal to IR, though black very strongly absorbs visible light. Many materials that are opaque to visible light are transmissive to IR and some materials that are translucent to visible light are opaque (blocking) to IR.
IR is also a very broad spectrum of wavelength--much more than visible light. There are bands within the general category of IR that act even differently from each other. For example, some materials will only absorb or reflect the shorter wavelength IR and not the longer etc. Really interesting stuff when you get deeper into the details.
If I remember correct, polished, shiny aluminum surfaces are the best all around, broad spectrum reflectors of IR spectrum.
look kids!! he has safety glasses sometimes but you, you always
Wow robert that's amazing and great tech I can't keep up with you inventions lol great vide what to build next lol working in the rocket heater
Best clickbait ever, thanks.
When snowmobiling at high speeds , if the choice is Deer or Moose , I choose Moose ! If timed right , you drive right underneath them , but Deer don’t run you down and kick your ass ! Moose might !
Robert must be cold....He's always building heaters...🤪👍
He is giving us very good ideas to be self supporting
One of Rob's early videos was a paint on radiator using the conductive ink. Seems like we've almost come full circle. 👍
@@fransjebik8554 I know...hence the funny face and thumbs up....
I laughed too, he is wearing 2 fleeces and it's cold enough that you can see his coffee steam.
@@jimsmind3894 Yes, I have seen thatvideo. There is a German company doung it in your home, paint it on your wall for 1200€ .
from rainwater generator straight to nano carbon infra red heater, this channel is like a box of chocolates, you don't quite know what you're going to get next LOL
lol
I always thought it was 'tow' as in pulling a trailer, rather than 'tow' as in rhymes with 'cow'.
Excellent video for a simple demonstration of V=IR.
ok and cheers
💜👍💜👍clever stuff👍👍👍
Happiness is a toasty behind.
Swann was 10 years in advance...not a lot of people know that.
So,this is these little gizmos that we see?
So they're genuine?
Wow...that shocks me...seriously !
Fantastic video! 👍
Would using this long strip of carbon be multiplied using an array of strips increase the life expectancy Robert ??? Maybe using this idea for making an electric furnace home heater ??
Seems like these days we all have to combine our ideas for the good of mankind. Lets face it, keeping warm in the winter time is a very good thing, period.
Shazbot! Mork from Ork would be proud.
Wouldn't there be a third option to heat yourself up? Insulation. But some clothes on the bioreactor, that is you, and voila! 😆🤣
FWIW, the most efficient way to heat PEOPLE is to maintain their torso at 30C/85F or above. If that is achieved, then the brain thinks that the air temperature is just fine and doesn't start restricting blood flow to the extremities to keep the central part of your body warm enough, which is why your hands/feet start feeling cold *LONG* before the rest of you does. If you used the carbon fiber to make an electric vest to warm your torso directly, that would be brilliant!
(I watched a science video a few decades ago where a subject was given dexterity tests--placing nuts on bolts/etc.--in a -10C/13F chamber. While the electrically heated vest he was wearing kept his core temperature up, he was just fine, not even needing to wear gloves. Within two minutes of turning it off, however, he started fumbling, and found doing the tests almost impossible after five minutes or so. Fascinating stuff!)
Mostly agree, but am a bit surprised at the 85*F temp mentioned--is this the ambient air temp or just the skin of the core temp? I do run warmer than most people, but we keep our place 67*F during mid fall to mid spring, and I sleep nekked with only a thin sheet, and I do just fine with that (I would keep it colder, but I think my spouse would mutiny...).
But yes, agree with the general principle--learned this through backpacking trips in cold weather. In fact, I designed a front only* insulated vest with a thinnish layer of synthetic (Apex) insulation sandwiched between very breathable layers (a windjacket is used in conjunction with the vest) for hiking for around 10*F and colder. I'm good with wearing just a baselayer under that, and over that a windjacket.
When I break camp and am ready to go, I always take off my down jacket and use the above. I start off a bit chilly, but within a couple minutes, especially if going uphill, I'm good. I use the windjacket and zipper as a way to regulate the heat. If I'm going up a hill (once warm), I'll open it wide up and then on the relative straights and downs, zip it up.
* Front only insulated because the backpack keeps my back plenty warm--too warm most of the time. The Apex insulated vest only weighs around 2 oz and some change (I used some 1.1 oz/yd2 uncalandered and uncoated nylon fabric). If I had to make another one, I'd might sub out the Apex insulation for some Kapok fiber and would probably use a wicking polyester fabric to encase the insulation (it would up the weight a bit, but would dry a bit faster).
@@justinw1765 "Mostly agree, but am a bit surprised at the 85*F temp mentioned--is this the ambient air temp or just the skin of the core temp?"
Core temp. It's a survival mechanism. You will still survive if you hands and feet freeze and drop off, as long as your core stays warm enough to keep functioning.
I love it! when are you going to make me a heated couch???
honestly all your video titles read like something some clickbaity youtuber would write "amazing invention, scientists discover..." in front of
keep up the awesome work
What I love most is the honesty that Rob finishes all his videos with
yeah I suppose so - but you do have to get the bums on the seat mate lol - imagine if I titled this ' microclimate methodology for low heat utilisation' - that's what it is - but how many would watch lol - I tell you what - I will try it for fun
@@ThinkingandTinkering just for refrence i'm not complaining, i find these titles great
10:00 P.M. exactly in Michigans Upper Peninsula ,
I have been at a nudist camp on new years day, its sunny, you feel hot, but go in the shade and brrrrr its cold. Interestingly you feel colder with clothes on than without when in the winter sunshine.
I would like to see you make an infra red panel heater 240v, maybe using alco panel sign writing panel as a basis- 3mm polypropylene with 0.24mm aluminium skin either side?
Cool, between sorel cement and your conductive ink, you could make an infrared heater any size or shape you like 😁. Can't wait to see where you take this!
yes I could!
Sorel cement ? Interesting- I’ve never heard of this. Could you give the Video Number, if it’s searchable please. Thanks much.
@@SquareRootOfMinus1 search Robert Murray Smith magnesium oxide cements
The frequency of light......nano bs......love u man
You could have used a quarts rod and have everybody forget about carbon. With a reflector a quarts rod is very efficient and feels really hot on your skin. It is a shorter wavelength but manufacturers make these in affordable sizes and they use 400-800 Watts.
Maybe we should heat up some water, which will hold a lot of energy, add some tasty stuff to it .... and drink it. That would heat from the inside out.
Yep, and probably the most efficient way of doing that besides a wood stove, is with an immersion heater placed inside of a vacuum insulated container. This is my new way of making soup. I have one of those large 64 oz vacuum insulated containers and I drop a 1000 watt electric immersion heater in, heat up the water to boil. (there is some Al foil at the top to reflect IR back in and to limit convective heat loss a bit while the immersion heater is well, immersed).
Then I uplug the heater, throw in the ingredients, after a minute or so (to make sure the heater is cool enough to take out), I seal it back up with the supplied screw cap, and then throw some extra insulation on top of that (no need to get fancy with that, a folded up towel or the like will work fine).
It is more of a slow cooker. But the nice thing is that it uses less energy than most other forms.
Excellent video and good idea
Looking at carbon weave there are soooo many to choose from 🤔
What size, thickness etc is your strip of carbon weave please?
Or do you have a link to purchase the same?
Keep up the good work 👍
nano nano, that brought back childhood memories, or was it nanu nanu?
nanu nanu with your ceiling furniture, your crazy humans.
Three other types of heating for you, increase circulation ie go for a brisk walk, T.E.F ie Thermic effect of food (eat a big protein based meal) and lastly tricking the body's perception of the temperature level. The latter can be done by slightly warming areas of the body such as the wrist, where there are lots of nerve endings involved with sensing temperature, warming these parts of the body tricks the nervous system into thinking you are warmer than you are. There is a commercial device available which does this. I forget the name, but it looks like a wristwatch.
So you could add "biohacking" as another form of heating.😂
When in HVAC school i learned that a heat pump (with the evaporator coil buried about a foot "below frost point" under ground) can be actually above 100% efficient ! This will usually be "forced air"convection heat , or .. one could im-bedd the condenser coil in a stained black or dark brown concrete floor, this would be a little infrared , a little conductive / it would make nice toasty feet , and convective since heated air rises also ... ... but most efficient indeed. As a child when ever i visited my friends house it was totally comfortable even in worst part of winter his home was a heated concrete floor, and my home was always cool and drafty with cold feet no matter what... we had base board heated water system. Keep those feet warm.
you are talking about COP - coefficient of performance - that's not efficiency
@@ThinkingandTinkering Yes ; in all due respect ; however as an example: given the same enclosed space , to keep it heated to lets say 70 degrees F, a heat pump with COP 4 will consume less kilowatt hours / day of electric , compared to a resistivity heater (graphite , carbon, nickel chromium, etc.) All resistivity heating yields maximum of 1 watt of heat out for each 1 watt of electrical energy consumed, where a heat pump yields more ; so i guess we could say that "efficiency" of a heat pump "system" (especially Geo-thermal) is greater than 1:1 ... For each watt of electric consumed to run compressor/ fan will equal greater than 1 watt of heat coming out the condenser unit (inside your home)... I wish you could design a small solar powered heat pump.... I know you can.
@@audiowan Over 100% efficiency would break the laws of physics wouldn't it?
@@justtinkering6713 heat pumps are not over 100% efficient by themselves. Thier total performance installed or coefficient of performance is over the calculated 100% efficiency because they are stealing some power savings from the ground temperature
@@humanistwriting5477 By Contrast heat pumps seemingly undertake the impossible you get more heating out than the energy you put in. This is possible because we are using energy to move heat - rather than converting energy directly to heat, as a result ( the apparent efficiency in terms of heat output is greater than 100%).. cheers mate
Do you think silicate carbon mesh would work?I use it for sanding drywall ,it looks the same.
Conduction is great, heat goes from hot to cold, I live mid terrace, by keeping my house a bit colder than my neighbours, the pensioners on either side of my house are heating my house. Except when I turn the Chinese Diesel heater on, which blasts air through the cat flap, then it gets hot, handy for drying laundry.
My last gas bill for heating, hot water and cooking was less than £100.
lol handy indeed
@@ThinkingandTinkering the secret to keeping a house warm is insulation and stopping draughts, no point heating it, to then lose the heat or have cold air blowing in.
Very inspiring encouragement Robert ! Thank you truly. You cleverly leave us more curious and inventive. However, your mouth contraption failed to prove this emits infrared. Please define the specific Nano-meter wavelength that your heater contraption emits. Is it possible a simple spectrometer can reveal the specific wavelenths. I am looking for NIR and FIR types to be worthwile for continuing health in the dark winter months. Thoughts about this as a challenge?
Wonder if the ir given off could illuminate an area for a security camera
Love the videos. I'm in England and want to beat this energy con. I would love to know the cheapest way to warm a room but with the lowest volts. I've been using a 12v connected to a water heater element for years in my pond during the winter and it gets to about 30°c (not the water) so how do we multiply that to actually warm a room? Or can it not be done. I saw 100 metres of carbon wire for floor heating for £30, so would this be ok to stuff in a sand battery?
Nice work unlce Robert you are hero thank you for this nice idea love you
Safety instructions: Cut fire brick in a well ventilated area or with breathing protection
Tony your friendly neighborhood risk assesor
Nice one Tony, I think this channel is aimed at people with enough brain power to work without hi viz and hard hats to warn others you can't make sensible decisions.
@@551moley
Don’t get me wrong l!
99% of people that watch this Chanel are smart enough. I assume you are too..!
However It takes only 1 “F” wit to mess it up for everyone.
You aren’t that guy?
I assume your sensible, I’ll assume every watching is also sensible. And I don’t need to report the video..!
I won’t. 😉
I am sorry mate and I don't mean to be rude here - but, did you read the MSDS on this product? The specific instructions say - The product is supplied in standard brick shaped sizes. Dust content is normally very low as supplied and is not considered dangerous to health or the environment. Dust generated by a cutting, grinding or abrasive operation, however, may lead to respiratory problems if there is long term exposure to excessive levels. This is taken directly from the MSDS - we are talking about one brick in a 5 minute period and a none machine hand sawing operation that is extremely unlikely to throw up fine dust - neither excessive or long term I would say - probably to get any damage from this you would have to snort it like a line of cocaine. As a risk assesor I am surprised you didn't check this out first.
alumium oxide and silicon dioxide - the msds says this product is supplied in standard brick shaped sizes. Dust content is normally very low as
supplied and is not considered dangerous to health or the environment. Dust generated by a cutting, grinding or abrasive operation, however, may lead to respiratory problems if there is long term exposure to excessive levels. One brick sawn with a hand saw over a 5 minute period is neither excessive or long term - you would probably have to snort this like a line of cocaine for it to do anything at all
why would you report the video? For a danger that doesn't exist?
I am loving your videos. Do I understand this correctly: the ducting behind the carbon fibre is warmed by the radiation, and then heats the air by convection like a radiator? Also, if you put ducting in front of the carbon will that make it more efficient as a radiator? Thinking for a greenhouse application, to heat the air at night.
Also do you think you could do a video on how to extract heat from the sand battery like you talked about, with a sterling engine?
Infrared heaters, produce Invisible (to the eye) heat rays... that only heat the surface of things, not the air. However, if you painted a room a dark color, such as black.. that IR energy would be absorbed into the dark surface, and any air that passed over the now hot surfaces, would potentially heat up that air a bit.
I believe the small fake fireplace heaters use a similar method. An IR heater, with internals that capture the IR energy... then a forced fan system, to push the heated air out.
I used a Parabolic IR heater from Harbor Freight, when I was training martial arts in my Frigid attic, in the winter. You point the dish towards you, and you feel the heat, if you are within about 12 to 15ft of it. Though, the air temp of the attic felt like it was almost cold enough to freeze water. Standard electric heaters, were useless in the attic... because it was way too cold up there, to even put a dent in the temps. But since IR heats your clothing and skin directly.. it feels like hot sunshine, on a hot summers day... heating your skin. The combination of IR heat, and working hard... was just enough to counter the low air temps up there.
Using IR on plants directly... would probably destroy them quickly. IR heat can be very hot to a surface... and a leaf would likely completely dry out in less than an hours time under an IR heaters beams... even if the temps was 1 degree F. in the greenhouse.
His use of a metal backer... was mostly to support the heated material, safely, and easily. It also helps a little bit, to reflect some of the IR beams forwards. With the parabolic version... they use a mirror finish on the reflector dish.. and the dish shape itself, focuses and concentrates the beams, so that the heating effect is much greater.
I'd welcome some ideas how to keep water pipes from freezing without heating the whole space. We've tried the electric heating coils/wires, but we live in an area where the electricity goes out often. Thanks!
Fantastic,I wish I understood physics. Are these the mini room heaters I keep getting adverts for on CZcams?
Most room heaters are primarily convection heaters, but some are infrared/radiation heaters, and some are kind of a blend. The best infrared/radiation heaters are those that have a shiny dish with a heating element in front of it. They really direct the heat towards a certain direction very well.
I always appreciate the conductive method of an electric blanket. Unfortunately that does nothing for my uninsulated pipes. Thay also dont have that pipe tape that electricly warms a pipe to just above freezing.
they do
Could you show us how to make the sauna type infra red heater? Possibly with temp. Controls??🙂
Hi! What do you think about solar air heater? I would like to have some suggestions from you Sir! Tha nks a lot, awesome channel!
Hi, could i ask please... I have one of these in a bulb configuration. Could i use a 20A dimmer or fan speed control to "turn it down"....? Thanks in advance Jason.
Might it be worthwhile to use the heater unit from an electric hot water tank to demonstrate the sand battery?
his coffee mugs looks like they could use a good clean up.🙂
once a year if they need it or not mate lol
Have searched all over where did the steel conduit come from and what size is it?
Thanks
Hi Robert! Any idea of watts/M2 with this? I'm trying to make a sauna (:
I'm quite hot on IR emission. Do you have any notes that indicate the emission spectra for this type of heater?
I've seen larger commercial panels (4'x3', 4'x2', etc.). I can't imagine commercially manufactured panels converting to DC - added cost, complexity, etc. I'm assuming that they do a much thinner fiber (higher resistance) or a serpentine path (longer path, higher resistance) or both.
DC wouldn't have EMF, but AC units would.
You mentioned adding a reflector behind it... Any polished/ reflective surface?
I'm interested in the IR for health benefits. Most research is in red, near IR under PBM - photobiomodulation. There are lots of references in PubMed on visual and near IR wavelengths.
I always had a hard time calculating ohms when the conduit has vast changes in temperature. Ohms go up when temp goes up right? Also, how does one make an appropriate 100W 12V power supply? I understand that a car battery would work... but what about simply running it to wall current and then placing a dimmer switch on it? like one of those knobs from a light switch. I mean does this have to be DC? Also, how do you limit the current in this case(other than tripping the breaker hahaha)?
Carbon has a negative coefficient of resistance as temp increases, if I recall correctly
Does the carbon fiber need to be taught? And do we need the pipe? I am thinking something along the lines of jacket liner or pants liner and just wiring it from one end to the other
🤔 Hmm 👉 Watt about the carbon paint you've company sells 😎👍
Metal contacts and paint on carbon heating elements 👍
This seems like it could be used for an infrared sauna.
Wouldit help to polish that metal panel to reflect the IR?