In my first life I was a machinist (70s). I changed career but kept my tools. All Starrett and are good as new. It will surprise you how easy they are to use and how many times they can be used. Thanks for teaching others about things like this!
Can't believe i made it 5 years of (ship) modelling without one of these. Never thought about it, always been eyeballing everything and use ezline to stretch the extra milimeters.... I guess is time to step up the precision game! Have one ordered after this video!
Love your work Paul, it is great to see a video like this opening up new horizons for others. There is one point I would like to make, as a fitter and turner by trade while I was at trade school in Australia(quite a while ago now) we were always told not to leave the spindle and anvil touching as two highly finished surfaces touching together for a prolonged time they can "stick" together. Keep up the great work.
Thank you Stephen, In response to your trade school experience, I think it might depend on environment or usage concerns. Perhaps if you live in a rust prone area or you usage involves certain fluids. Personally, I've never received a new micrometer that was ever left open. Likewise, I've never had the mating surfaces stick. However, I live in an extremely dry climate. They aren't used around grease, oil etc and are kept very clean. The only issue I've ever had with storage was an old new-stock 1/2" Starrett that I bought off Ebay and the lube had gotten stiff. A quick disassembly, cleaning. and lube had It back to perfect. And by the way, while a 1/2" mic is cute, I think it's not very useful and difficult to handle, unless you have really tiny hands.
@@scale-model-workshop Hi Paul, thanks for your reply. I agree humidity will be a factor and it does get humid at certain times of the year where I live, couple that with people who are a bit heavy handed, don't have much mechanical feel and tend to "tighten" the spindle and anvil together. I have not seen a 0-1/2" mic before, possibly a rare animal, I would think it is difficult to use as a 0-1" is a comfortable size anything smaller would not be comfortable.
If you really find you need a micrometer or micrometers might I suggest you consider used. I've got my own up to 6 inch, yet I still use my grandfather's 100 year old Starrett. And if you find you need a mic be cause you are doing machining. Be prepared to go down the rabbit hole. You will soon find that there is a need for a good indicator, a height gage, some sort of flat surface (sorry granite countertop doesn't cut it) and a variety of parallels and set-up tools. If you are not doing machining but only laying out parts on sheet styrene, wood or metal. Go with a caliper. Most calipers can be used 4 different ways. Inside, outside, depth with the rod and most importantly depth or offset with the jaws. This the secret weapon in the caliper arsenal for laying out parts. This is far more accurate than a combination square. And if your eyes aren't the best, go with a dial type. Yah the digitals are easy to read. You can zero them at any point on scale, switch from inch to metric if needed. But try setting a digital caliper to a specific size to scribe a line. Digitals suck at this. Dials are really simple. Inch to metric. You passed math didn't you. Multiply or devide by 25.4
In my first life I was a machinist (70s). I changed career but kept my tools. All Starrett and are good as new. It will surprise you how easy they are to use and how many times they can be used. Thanks for teaching others about things like this!
"A strict digitarian." Sir, your videos keep me rolling.
Interestingly (at least to me) I just had a discussion the other day about calipers vs micrometers and lo and behold here's this video!
As always, an excellent, informative and educational video. Thank you
Can't believe i made it 5 years of (ship) modelling without one of these. Never thought about it, always been eyeballing everything and use ezline to stretch the extra milimeters....
I guess is time to step up the precision game! Have one ordered after this video!
Woodworkers are also starting to take up using machinists measuring tools as well.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Another excellent video thanks Paul 👍
Love your work Paul, it is great to see a video like this opening up new horizons for others. There is one point I would like to make, as a fitter and turner by trade while I was at trade school in Australia(quite a while ago now) we were always told not to leave the spindle and anvil touching as two highly finished surfaces touching together for a prolonged time they can "stick" together.
Keep up the great work.
Thank you Stephen, In response to your trade school experience, I think it might depend on environment or usage concerns. Perhaps if you live in a rust prone area or you usage involves certain fluids. Personally, I've never received a new micrometer that was ever left open. Likewise, I've never had the mating surfaces stick. However, I live in an extremely dry climate. They aren't used around grease, oil etc and are kept very clean. The only issue I've ever had with storage was an old new-stock 1/2" Starrett that I bought off Ebay and the lube had gotten stiff. A quick disassembly, cleaning. and lube had It back to perfect. And by the way, while a 1/2" mic is cute, I think it's not very useful and difficult to handle, unless you have really tiny hands.
@@scale-model-workshop Hi Paul, thanks for your reply. I agree humidity will be a factor and it does get humid at certain times of the year where I live, couple that with people who are a bit heavy handed, don't have much mechanical feel and tend to "tighten" the spindle and anvil together. I have not seen a 0-1/2" mic before, possibly a rare animal, I would think it is difficult to use as a 0-1" is a comfortable size anything smaller would not be comfortable.
If you really find you need a micrometer or micrometers might I suggest you consider used. I've got my own up to 6 inch, yet I still use my grandfather's 100 year old Starrett. And if you find you need a mic be cause you are doing machining. Be prepared to go down the rabbit hole. You will soon find that there is a need for a good indicator, a height gage, some sort of flat surface (sorry granite countertop doesn't cut it) and a variety of parallels and set-up tools. If you are not doing machining but only laying out parts on sheet styrene, wood or metal. Go with a caliper. Most calipers can be used 4 different ways. Inside, outside, depth with the rod and most importantly depth or offset with the jaws. This the secret weapon in the caliper arsenal for laying out parts. This is far more accurate than a combination square. And if your eyes aren't the best, go with a dial type. Yah the digitals are easy to read. You can zero them at any point on scale, switch from inch to metric if needed. But try setting a digital caliper to a specific size to scribe a line. Digitals suck at this. Dials are really simple. Inch to metric. You passed math didn't you. Multiply or devide by 25.4
By day I'm a machinist and by night I'm a kitchen table modeller.