Ford 4.6 2V Timing Chain And Guide Replacement.
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- On this episode I show you how to replace the timing chains, timing chain guides, and tensioners. As well as how to set up the timing on your 4.6 liter 2 valve Ford engine. Accessing the timing chain components is much harder than actually changing the parts. The procedure itself is basically aligning specific links on the chain with the marks on the sprockets.
Here are some of the parts and tools I used for this job:
Crank holding tool: amzn.to/2SwFMP6
Cam Holding tool (2 required): amzn.to/2SB0BZV
Cam follower removal tool: amzn.to/2XVPe4F
DOUBLE CHECK THE FITMENT ON THE PARTS! There are too many different timing sets for me to list all of them. If your vehicle has plastic tensioners I would suggest upgrading to the iron version. They have proven to be more durable.
Bolt Part#: W709818 S437
Parts:
Ford Racing Timing Set: amzn.to/2SwwuTB
Cloyes (plastic guides, iron tensioners): amzn.to/2Y3paji
Cloyes (metal guides, iron tensioners): amzn.to/2YkkiKT
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Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
Here are some of the parts and tools I used for this job:
Crank holding tool: amzn.to/2SwFMP6
Cam Holding tool (2 required): amzn.to/2SB0BZV
Cam follower removal tool: amzn.to/2XVPe4F
DOUBLE CHECK THE FITMENT ON THE PARTS! There are too many different timing sets for me to list all of them. If your vehicle has plastic tensioners I would suggest upgrading to the iron version. They have proven to be more durable.
Bolt Part#: W709818 S437
Parts:
Ford Racing Timing Set: amzn.to/2SwwuTB
Cloyes (plastic guides, iron tensioners): amzn.to/2Y3paji
Cloyes (metal guides, iron tensioners): amzn.to/2YkkiKT
I think you did a very his job showing us how to replace timing chain
So did you go with the plastic guide kit or metal guide kit?
@@t.farris1755 turn the crank until the timing mark is at 6 o'clock on the crank gear and the dot on the cam gears are at the top.
Repair Geek sorry for asking a lot of questions but this is my first time doing this and I just want to make sure I’m doing it correctly so I don’t damage the engine
Hey Geek i know I can use the iron tensioner's on a 2004 crown Victoria @ list I think I can.. does the cloyes kit come with the metal gasket for the tensioner's do I need to use them or can I use the tensioner's on the crown Victoria the same way you used it on your mustang with out the plate/metal gasket? Or are the metal gasket only used in other applications? Also my car came from factory with the plastic tensioner's
Well done. The tensioners have a fail safe feature that physically limits the amount of non tension so as to avoid piston to valve issues with momentary lack of oil pressure.
Great job man. I have done this years ago on my bullitt. I have to give you major credit. I see others making videos of doing it the wrong way. You did it right.
Thanks love the channel.
Justin and you you guys both are awesome. I just watched both your videos and bought all the tools.
Removing all 8 spark plugs will aid in the reduction of forces, including residual combustion chamber compressed gasses pressing down on the piston, and this can held reduce the hazard of bending valves.
I'm glad you used metal tensioners as the plastic ones get weak and the spring gets weak and after 6-7 years of heat cycles and allow for super loose chains on start up and the loose chain on the driver's side will eventually bust the left side chain guide.
The metal tensioners have that little ratcheting arm that presses up and keep the chains tight by keeping the tensioner arm pushed up tight in the absence of oil pressure.
Great video.
Cool vid man! I did this for the first time a few years ago with stage 2 cams with all new components with success. I didn’t lock cams or crank I just made sure all pistons were below deck by inserting a rod in each cylinder to double check piston height, might not be common way but worked great and put my mind at ease. It’s definitely a nerve racking process for the first time especially adding aftermarket cams. I changed oil pump so i needed to prime and I turned over to prime whole system before starting as well. There is definitely a chance for chain to jump a tooth on startup without being primed and without you knowing.Thumbs up👍!
Outstanding and concise video. I get a little bit of a rattle if I don't drive my Lincoln Town Car for a day or two. I'd rather do it now than later. Thank you for leaving out all the stupid details. There's a good chance that if anybody is doing this, they don't need a close up of the 8mm socket you're using to undo the airbox. There's a pretty good chance they don't need that knowledge nugget. Your information was detailed and valuable.
Been putting that off for a year because of lack of good instructions. You have made it look easy. Thanks
Thank you. And thanks for the crank no start tip. NEVER crank a new chain up without priming the oil system.
I am about to tackle my chains on a 2005 Crown Vic LX Sport. I got 2 seconds of rattle in the front of the motor on startup. Thanks for the video.
How did it go? I’m so intimidated by not knowing where to lock the motor down at and making sure my dots are lined up.
@@josephmcnamee9338 It went fine. There are video's all over YT that tell you exactly how to do it. Just take your time.
@@dwaynestimpson5449did you lock your cams with the tool or did you remove the cam followers so the cam wouldn’t rotate??
@@TearItUpFixItTV used the cam tools. Worked out great runs like a champ
@@dwaynestimpson5449 thank you. They’ll be delivered today so I can get this job done this weekend
Very Helpful......I know garages complain too...but for a average joe like myself i would have to take a solid 4 days off to do this outside no garage......i get nervous im gonna screw it up so i go slow to make sure i did everything correctly
Set crank keyway to 12 o'clock and the pistons will all be low enough to not hit the valves. No need to pull rocker arms or use cam holding tool. Thank you for the video!
If I’m doing a chain replacement on my 4.6 2V in my 02 GT and it’s timing is set already can I just put the keyway to 12 o’clock and and swap out the chains , guides and tensioners? I have the cam holding tool and valve covers off. I’m just making sure the proper marks to be at.
Not even halfway through and I'm confident that this is achievable, going to watch it a couple times though. Noticed chain smacking last week, have had low oil pressure for a while. May step up my cams also.
01 Crown Vic.
one tip could be instead of unplugging the crank sensor just crank the car in clear flood mode which is gas pedal to the floor and crank it, the car wont start but you can crank as long as you want
It doesn't have a carburetor so it won't flood. It will start up at crazy high revolution and damage the engine immediately!
Absolutely love my 2V 4.6 bcuz of the simplicity to work on her myself. Awesome vid.
Thanks for the video...my 4.6 in 2000 expedition seems realistic fir me to do with a small investment in tools. No startup rattle yet so I'll hold off. 297 000 miles with consistent oil changes.
I love those old cast iron ratcheting style tensioners. I wish the 4.0 SOHC utilized something like that.
Hardest part seems to be taking everything else apart to get to it
Only if you are not rebuilding the engine. Modular engines are not hard to work on. 😊
It usually is on these things.
Pretty easy to take off and put everything on did it in 2 hours 😂
@@Rowdy_2v i simply said "hardest part"
Never said the whole process was.
Truth!
I got a 2009 vic p71 I done so much work to really clean car but the only thing is the timing chains .I have no problems but ik it's never been replaced so it won't hurt to change it .this video definitely gave me motivation to order the kit and tackle it thanks man .
Man i just found your channel. Not sure how it has never popped up before. Got a 4.6 in a 1997 Expedition with 280k on the clock. Never have had to do any of this stuff, but I like to know what I might have to tackle someday. Sort of going for a record with her lol.
Anyway, your vids are awesome.
Dude. It’s wild looking at your clean engine and engine bay lol. I’m doing chains, guides and tensioners on my 02 GT that just hit 250,000 miles lol. It runs like a top but it’s definitely greasy on the front cover and valve covers. The right hand guide plastic broke, I started hearing the mild chain smack on the plastic a week ago. So before it gets bad or jumps timing I’m doing it.
I wish I saw this video sooner. Could have saved me a lot of work. I will know better for next time. Thanks.
You can't just pull the pins, sometimes there will be slack opposite of the tensioner side on the chain( I meant that the chain touching the tensioner will be tight, but there may be "slack" on the opposite chain side if the cams are not in the correct time). If I remember right the LH camshaft sprocket is 12 o'clock and the RH at 11. There being slack opposite of the tensioner side means that timing is slightly off. Your method about removing the roller followers prior to messing with the chains was correct, good advice there. Also I think that cam holding tool you were using (T96T-6256-B) is only meant to be used on Windsor engines, I have a Romeo 4.6 2v and had to use (T92P-6256-A) and (T91P-6256-A).
I love these engines, not a fan of the 3v. The HV Melling oil pump is def a must on the 3V's, I hate the new style plastic tensioners and cam phasers (too many issues)
hey man long time subscriber here - love your work. Today I ran into an issue doing this job on my 2011 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. I've asked about 100 people online and everyone is telling me something different, so I thought I'd ask the expert directly. I replaced the chains, guides and tensioners with Melling parts. The driver's side chain lined up perfectly dot-to-dot. The passenger side is off 1 link. Would you suggest I remove the cam holding tool & turn the cam sprocket with a wrench slightly to get the chain to line up? Some are telling me this is perfectly fine to do, and others are saying not to do it - and if it's not lining up then something is wrong. I would really appreciate your input. Thank you sir
Finally a good video good explanation thanks men..I have to change my guides and tensioners on my marauder...
Marauder is a 4v. It's different.
So the camshaft holding tool it would not work on the 4v? Do you know which one I would need?
@@hectorjimenez7328
czcams.com/video/9eCDxp3fcU4/video.html
It's pretty similar. You'll probably need to lock the 4 cams with a different tool.
Colt 604 I already change my tensioners guides and chains..I just used zip ties
@@hectorjimenez7328 Sweet! Glad to hear you got it done 😊
Great tutorial, getting ready to do this on my Town car.
How did it go?
@@281cu6 It wasn't that bad. The only real pain is the passenger valve cover, which is a really tight fit in the back. It is just a matter of patiently disconnecting the wires around the cover and then working the cover off. And of course, the rear of the cover leaked when reassembled so I had to remove it and do it again. But the second try I had a helper hold the wire harnesses and hoses out of the way while I shimmied the cover back on. I did it over two half days, but can easily be done in a day. The chains and the guides themselves go on very easily.
@@mikehenry4743 Thanks for the update! Gives me a bit of courage to know that info. I'll make sure I have a helper. I'm planning on changing these out in 30K-ish on my Grand Marquis. Figured it could use a fresh set being that it's an 04'.
@@281cu6 Good luck, once you start it is not that bad at all.
@@281cu6 I'm planning on doing this today on my grand marquis, I went to change the coil pack on the 8th cylinder and found oil in the spark plug well, so I'm hoping its just the head gasket thats leaking oil into the combustion chamber and not the piston ring 😅 if you're ok with it, is there a way we can contact each other, I would like to know what issues you've ran into before I start this job so I can prepare
Thank you man, I was getting ready to start my build And was unsure where the cam gears with the dots.. 11 and 12 and 6 for crank makes this easy never done one before.
Just buy the manual
I just bought a 01 f150 with a 4.6 and my local mechanic says I have a blocked oil passage and it is making my timing chain wear out due to the computer retard my timing and as a result the chain is making a slapping noise.
His suggestion is to get a new motor and not mess with the timing chain due to the blocked oil passage.
I also seen another video where a guy found a piece of rubber gasket stuck in the oil passage restrictor on the passenger side, so his and your video gives me hope that I don't need to buy a new engine for my truck.
Thanks for the great video
First thing I would do is drop the oil pan and examine it for any blocking causing oil starvation if anything it would be broken pieces of timing guides that you'd find!
Hey repair geek. You have a patience of the same he's 4.6 mod motors real junk the valve train components of still 25 to 2700 bucks and you're lucky if you get 300 horsepower out of this motor.. God bless the coyote overall I got to say the repair geek channel good stuff good information good presentation most of all really good camera work.
Not as bad as i thought it would be. Looks easy. I'm going to do it myself instead of taking it to a shop. Thanks for making the video.
Getting to the chains is harder than replacing them.
@@RepairGeek what's books do you recommend reading for the 4.6 and 5.4l 2v engine I want to learn more about them and and all its components
Pushrod motors it's like going to high school it's still going to be a challenge but you can get it done pretty easily and quickly
Mod motors are for people who can use their brains a little bit better and the payoff of not having to shim anything or check lash on the rockers is so much easier not having to worry about pushrod length
Very helpfull and informative !! I purchased a cloyes timing set same as the kit you used. Right side guide had busted were bolt holds guide to head and parts were missing not realizing the revised thickness. I spent about two hours searching for bolt. Started researching why my stock bolt didnt fit, maybee i got wrong kit. Thanks to your informative video it proved that im not going crazy !!!! Gettin old is a bitch bro i set parts/tools down getting side tracked , most likely my ADHD. 🤪. Spend time looking for shit when ida been done and running.
I’ve done hundreds of timing chains on ford 5.4, 4.6 and have never used a cam holding tool in my entire career. Even if the cam were to spring back there’s not enough pressure to damage anything at all.
Explained very well. Make it look easy. Shopping for parts now.
Thanks for the video.
So just finished replacing the chains/gears/tensioners in a 2005 F150 that was clicking loud. Drivers side guide broken. Gasket blown on tensioner. Got it back together, fired up and it’s still making noise, what now? Clogged oil gallery? Need new slack adjusters?
Excellent work as usual 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Like your attitude and simple instructions. Thanks, JD
Awesome video man. I love the 4.6 2v engine
A man that is so true on people being afraid on the 4.6 timing i am one of them I have been put in it off for almost 13 years on my 97 GT I hat a problem of a spark plug tripping the tread of one of the heads I removed the heads bought new ones and there are still in the original package heads and timing chains and I always tell my self next weekend and that weekend never comes ha ha
Ferber b join sn95 forums! Would love to see and help you out man
That's what she said. Killed me. Thanks for vid.
Done a jillion of them, I have the cam holders. Never used the crank thing. 2 1/2 hours on most changes, unless I have to find something, I've miss placed.
Where did you find the cam holders
As I’m thinking this doesn’t look all that hard you start talking about people being scared to mess with them😉
I was that guy 🤣😂😎👍
I'll tell you what makes these jobs hard: When a bolt rounds off and is stuck, and having to deal with several of these because the knucklehead who worked on it the last time used Loctite on the critical fasteners because he didn't have a torque wrench and just "wanted to make sure".
Absolutely great video! I appreciate it.
Those guys that get uptight about the chains should watch vids on the 4.0 (four chains + jackshaft).
I have that motor and did the timing with engine in ....i learned alot
@@llennon73 I'm hoping to start on mine in a month. 170k on it and cross my fingers every time I drive it. I will do the 2 degree advance on the cams when it goes back together. Thanks for the responce. B.R.
Benton Rodeheaver I’m changing my guides, chains, etc... don’t feel bad this is a first for me as I speak and like many I’m nervous hoping mines turns out correct after how the gentleman explained
@@t.farris1755 Just rember remember if you want better mileage/torque advance the vams 2 degrees and do the brown wire modification it disengages thefront differential when in 2wd. Mine's getting an electric fan also. These combined are +++ for MPG. Cold air intake is another.
Benton Rodeheaver well I’m just trying to change my timing chains and tensioners
good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn
I just did a valve job on my 03 f150 5.4 I just had the engine timed. All new tensioners guides chains and for some reason on the driver's side lower guide. The chain has some slack I don't know if that's normal.When I rotate the engine It has more tension, but then it still has slack at a certain point
great video. I believe the tensioner arm with the little nub goes on the driver's side. probably doesn't really matter, but...
I’m definitely subscribing. Thanks bud ! Awesome illustration 🔥
Great video. I purchased the 6477 cam holding tool. It doesn’t say 2003-04 GT, but I’m seeing some say it still worked. Do you know if that’s the part number you used? Thanks again
That's what I used. I don't know why they would say it wouldn't work. All 2v's have an exposed spot not covered by a cam tower cage which lets that tool work.
@@RepairGeek I used them today. They worked well. Thanks 🙏🏼
Where did you get that cool beeping torques wrench. I have. 3/8 clicking torques wrench but haven’t used it and it’s lowest setting may exceed that required by the 13pound feet.
Also thanks for the awesome and simple Video
Nice video I would add a few things. first when installing new chains I would have at least pre soaked them in engine oil. I use a ultrasonic cleaner with my chains and oil to make sure oil the chain is properly pre lubed. second when building up oil pressure you just need to turn the key to the on position then hold the gas pedal to the floor then crank the engine over a few times like you mentioned until the oil pressure light goes out then release the gas pedal and the car will start. I do this every time I start my car after a oil change or if it has sat for any length of time.
The tensioners have oil sprayers that spray on the chains. If you pre-lube the engine, oil should spray on the chains as well. There is no harm in soaking them either. Thanks for watching.
Great Video - Really Like Spot On Communications & Extra Insight into Little Things to Protect Your Investment . .
I watched your video because I need to replace my oil pump and was trying to learn how to do the timing chain. Is much of this will I be able to cut out since I am changing my oil pump only?
hey man great video - I'm about to do this job for the first time on my 2011 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I watched a ton of videos and many say once you lock the cams with the cam locking tool to not rotate them again with the chain off, or it could mess up the timing. but then most videos end up rotating them slightly with the tool off, to line up the chain properly? little confused by this
S*** you just showed me how to do my timing set tomorrow thanks
How did it go?
Nice job. I have a '00 grand marquis with 161k great runner and rides beautiful
Wish you was here in Memphis I’ve been trying to find somebody to do my time in chain for a while I have a Mercury grand marquis
Same dawg
What to do when cam rotates and have to put it back at top dead center? Putting the pistons at tdc is easy but the cam shaft is a little more difficult to get the actual tdc
would have been nice to see you install the cam holding tool..still greta info thanks .
Same for a f150 with 4.6 "Triton" 2v right? I think the only difference is intake manifold..
I don't like the cast iron tensioners and the only reason is the ratcheting mechanism. It causes the guides to wear through in many cases, since tension can't let up. The newer plastic style has its issues with seal blowing, but they don't chew up the tensioning guides the way the cast iron ones do.
great video mate!! makes it alot less intimidating of a job!!
When I tried using the new white passenger side guide, it touched my chain at the bottom. Had to use a thinner guide
Great video, I think it will help other people out.
Great Video.
But, I would pre lube the chains and gears with assembly lube.
Vice grips on the camshaft work just as well
Can someone answer what new valve cover seals he used brand names and what other gaskets used
originally the crank gear was two piece with not enough slot on the key ........after a repair a few miles down the road ...POP !
with the chains off, would the cams move when the holding tools are removed? Would this even matter if replacing cams too?
Thank you very much for you help, you save my life, thank you again, have a great day
Nice video, to the point, didn't have to watch your cat or kids. Do you have a list of all the additional parts necessary to complete this task? valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, front seal, etc....?
So with the harmonic balancer notch at tdc. Wouldn’t that automatically have crank gear notch at 6 o’clock already
Yes. It would, the issue is the cams turn at 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft. So you can line up the TDC notch but you still have the possibility of the cams being 180 degrees off.
Hi Repair Geek, Thank you for your reply. I did check a cylinder on each side of the 4.6, and both had compression. I believe that would show that the chains are not broken. Originally the timing chains were making a lot of noise. Took my 2000 expedition to a shop, and the guy there said to quit driving, and replace the timing chains... I let the expedition sit for 6 months, then tried starting... First engine turned over normal, then had a different lighter sound while trying to start. I can get the engine to fire intermittently, (kind of bumps around), but won't come close to starting. What do you think I should check now? Thank you for your help, and suport!!!
What is the best way to re-install if I did not get 1 chain lined up on the cam gear? I am 1 tooth off but have already pulled my pins on the tensioners.
Do you think Metal guides are better than plastic ones and if so why?
GOOD VIDEO
the milwaukee impact ?
3/8 or 1/4 drive ?
That one is 1/4. I have the 3/8ths as well.
I'm about to replace timing cover due to broken idler boss. Was gonna do chain guides and tensioner not chains. Nervous about all the seals and rtv without leaking. Any tips?
Which brand of parts did you go with. Need to do mine soon on my 06’ mercury.
Great video
Crank shaft gear is at 6 o'clock is that right. ?
Good video!
Got ahead of myself plus my first time doing a timing job on my truck.
I aligned the tdc in park should i be worried?
Thanks you look and sound like the real deal I wish we were friends I could use your help
I have a 2006 2v 4.6 that has a very faint tick at idle and it speeds up with rpm. The car has been making the same noise since I bought it with 118k on it. Now I’m at 160k and it’s the same but I’m noticing metal in the oil. Do you think it’s a lash adjuster and rocker? Or the timing chain. Again it’s very faint sounds like I’d you tapped a screwdriver on a piece of metal very lightly.
Probably a chain or tensioner. If you let the noise go they will eat up the timing cover.
@@RepairGeek thanks
Great video only thing im reccomend is replace oil pump while your in there
Sir pleasant evening i have a problems on my ford expedtion v8 triton romeo i use the old one timing chain but it has no timing mark any idea how can i count so that i can timing the engine very expensive here in the phillipines thank you so much when i saw your video its very useful for me as a beginners ,,
Mark the opposite ends of the chain as shown at 2:43
Thank bro i been afraid to do mines on my 02 f150 due to it being a timing chain
Great video, nice and clear.
Should be using a little blue locktight on all the fasteners
Is this the same for a 2008 f150 with the 4.6. Need to replace head gasket
How much should/would this cost to have done by a shop? I think I might have timing chain/guide noise. It comes and goes randomly. But I finally got the noise today and was able to pull the belt, which leads me to believe it’s inside the timing section. Not sure if this is something. Should tackle myself or let a shop do it
Nice job on the video I am going to buy a 02 f150 and you have to order the bolt thanks
Great video ... yup have to replace mine hear metal on metal and like chain rubbing valve cover ..... Thanks for the video
Make sure you clean out the bottom of the pan. I've seen the broken tensioner plastic clog the oil pickup.
@@RepairGeek yup I plan to change oil and flush motor... thanks have too do valve stem seal too ...once I put it back together I can turn the motor by hand to check valves are not hitting pistons ?
@@bengordon7635 hi was wondering how you made out with doing this and the valves seals I'm about to get into it myself on a 2011 cvpi thanks
@@leardi58 haha , was planning on doing it soon had some other stuff on car I was working on...
Have a Crown Vic 4.6 …Instead of using a cam holder or removing followers I used vise grips… hindsight is 2020… that being said when I reinstalled everything my passenger side chains is loose (along the guide)…should it be tight? Because I have read Ford engines rely in oil pressure for timing tension?? Any info helps thanks!
Hey I'm replacing head gaskets in a 4.6l 2v v8 97 lincoln town car ss, when I put the crankshaft to tdc and removed timing cover I noticed the cams were totally off the dots where straight down but my engine runs smooth , I forgot to move the cams into the timing position before installing heads, I installed heads and now I went to turn them to them timing position and I can feel valve hitting pistons so I don't force nothing. Do I gotta take the heads back off to turn the cams to they right position? Any info or suggestions please bro
Good video. Ever do a video on how change cams on the same motor? I'm putting Crower cams on my 2V soon and can't find a good video on how to along with retime it.
How can i put my car in TDC if i already took the tensioners and guides off and the camshafts are being held by a special holding tool so they wont spin and the pistons hit the valves on my 2002 mercury grand marquis 4.6 2v v8? Before i took everything apart i had put it to TDC and now the marked links wont wont align right on the marked spots on the sprockets and i made sure i spun the crank till it was a TDC any help please!?
Have a 2011 Crown Victoria PI. 130k when should I expect to be doing this I'm thinking it's never been done. Thanks for any help 👍
Whenever you hear a rattle at start up it’s time. It will tell you when it needs to be replaced. At least it has for the last 2 4.6 engines I’ve owned.
My 01 Cv LX is starting to experience engine noise at 418,000 kms
Mine started rattling at 108K.
Question for you. Got a 4.6, was running but the rocker arms fall in the valve cover, so the gear on passenger side turn loose, how do I know were to put back the gear? Got new rocker arms and timing kit to install in it. Got the cam remove, scope the cylinder and everything looks ok. Thanks.
I have a 2002 Ford Expedition. Would it be best if I took the intake manifold of of the engine before I replace the timing chain and guides ? There is a lot of wiring and a fuel rail and all kind of sensors under the hood of this vehicle. Thanks
Thanks awesome video.. very informative and well explained. I have a question or better say i have a situation. I'm putting 4.6 together for a f-150 2-v the thing is that i'm using pistons, crankshaft, connecting rods and camshafts from a 1999 crown victoria (4.6 Romeo both engines) pistons are a little different (not to deep) and the cams lift lobe are about 30 thousands shorter........combustion chamber is going to be smaller because i'm using my f-150 heads (smaller chamber than crown vic which are open chamber) can the lack of lobe lift compensate with the smaller chamber? what do you think? any advise or suggestions are greatly appreciated Thank you very much.
Hello, I have a question regarding 4.6 heads. What do you recommend replacing with? I'm having an issue with a spark plug being stripped out and having to helicoil but it beyond repair. I've seen either iron or aluminum as potential replacements. Thanks