Glad you like them! Really enjoying your channel. It is always nice to watch the journey of a man in this trade. Looks like you already have the greatest tool for successes which is your passion for metalworking. Steve
Aside from throwing swarf towards you with a clockwise revolving cutter as viewed from above, the real reason you should begin your cut on the right side is because the cutting pressure is directed against the fixed vise jaw rather than the moveable jaw. Many many tons of pressure are generated at the cutter as each tooth makes contact, and that pressure is best withstood and accuracy increased when it does not have to be absorbed by the vise screw threads.
Great video. I have guards out of ..062 aluminum which mirror yours. I agree with the comments about keeping my hand closer to the right side of the table for the DRO etc. I use the longer side to mount other accessories like a rotary table without disturbing my vise set up. I heard about your channel from BarZ and am now a subscriber
I like the plastic shields. I have a brand new milling machine and a puppy, and she wants to be with me when the chip are flying all over the place. NOT GOOD for doggies, so I'm working on a design to prevent chips from ever reaching the floor while not impeding my access to the tool. As for the table top protectors, I'll go make a couple of those this afternoon. Good ideas here. THanks.
I'm an apprentice, but hell no I'm not putting anything on the mill table... I got a workbench, shelf, tool box and other better places to put my tools on. I love the CNC mill I'm working on and I respect it and take care of it, it's a tool to do my job and I want to keep it in the best shape to do the job as best as I can.
Ha! I use the exact same oil for rust prevention on everything. I like it cause it sticks. Seriously oiled up an engine block a year ago in an unheated storage unit, and its still rust free.
Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc. my first one was simply ripped hardboard with 1/4” hot melt glue attached ribs on front and rear. I used a contour gauge to map out the vise, transferred to the hard board, jig saw and your done. I use doall way lube on the surface. Since the ribs were glued, they kept the hardboard from warping. I get lexan scraps constantly, any plastic shops have scraps and usually their in the dumpster for those on a budget. A table saw doesn’t even blink at them. If you have to marry up several pieces of lexan or plexiglass, acetone is the solvent/glue.
Good ideas. I like the vise board on the right side to be 12". It keeps my right hand closer to the handle, with room to set up a rush job on the left side of the table.
The only problem with that, and it depends on the machine, dovetail ways and worn machines seem to be the worst at it, is the farther unbalanced the table is, the more it tips on its ways, sometimes a problems sometimes not.
I have been going through your back catalogue after a recommendation from RR and I think you made two good points in this video that some lesser machinists seem to have never learnt or just ignore. Offsetting the vice should be encouraged to, as you say, spread the wear on the lead screw. There is one YT video producer (no names, no pack drill, but he knows who he is) who poo-pooed the idea thinking it was unnecessary to even the wear on the gibs and dovetails, completely ignoring the screw. Putting the vice in the centre must be a need to satisfy a machinist's sense of proportion, perhaps? As for quill stick out, the quill is only meant to take drilling loading, why do people think otherwise? I know my friend The Lipton has an aversion to winding his knee up , there is an amusing anecdote about it in his book, which he kindly sent me, about how to avoid doing it, involving searching for a mysterious noise. ATB c
Hi Chris, Thanks for commenting. I can't count how many knee milling machines I worked on that were worn out in the 4" to 6" of travel centered where the vice was mounted. Spreading the wear by offsetting the vise is a simple way to reduce the wear and spread it out over a greater distance. Steve
Go to your local restaurant supply and get a couple of PE cutting boards and cut them up instead of wood, they won't warp, they don't soak up stuff and they won't scratch anything.
I haven't seen an R8 auxiliary collet rack suspended from a DRO before. Has it held up or started to sag over the years? I have the same mount it seems, and would like to implement it in my shop.
Hi Atlascycle, The way cover came with the machine when we bought it. Here is one like it on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/Milling-Machine-Part-Retractable-Way-Cover-Back-3VKH-/181108233601?rmvSB=true It doesn't keep all the chips off the way so you still have to wipe them from time to time. It retracts as you move the Y axis to the back of the machine to take up the slop.
Not joking, I learn 2 or 3 new things every video I watch from you guys!
Thanks, glad they are helpful to you.
Steve
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc By the way Steve, I am not finding a website to purchase your products. Can you point the way?
Those chip guards are great, Steve. Thanks for putting this together!
Glad you like them! Really enjoying your channel. It is always nice to watch the journey of a man in this trade. Looks like you already have the greatest tool for successes which is your passion for metalworking.
Steve
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Thanks! It has been a long time coming, that's for sure.
Aside from throwing swarf towards you with a clockwise revolving cutter as viewed from above, the real reason you should begin your cut on the right side is because the cutting pressure is directed against the fixed vise jaw rather than the moveable jaw. Many many tons of pressure are generated at the cutter as each tooth makes contact, and that pressure is best withstood and accuracy increased when it does not have to be absorbed by the vise screw threads.
Excellent point.
Steve
Great video. I have guards out of ..062 aluminum which mirror yours. I agree with the comments about keeping my hand closer to the right side of the table for the DRO etc. I use the longer side to mount other accessories like a rotary table without disturbing my vise set up. I heard about your channel from BarZ and am now a subscriber
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for subscribing and sharing. I hope you enjoy the channel.
Steve
I like the plastic shields. I have a brand new milling machine and a puppy, and she wants to be with me when the chip are flying all over the place. NOT GOOD for doggies, so I'm working on a design to prevent chips from ever reaching the floor while not impeding my access to the tool. As for the table top protectors, I'll go make a couple of those this afternoon. Good ideas here. THanks.
You are welcome.
Steve
You drop pearls of wisdom like raindrops in a hurricane...
Thanks for the kind words.
I'm an apprentice, but hell no I'm not putting anything on the mill table... I got a workbench, shelf, tool box and other better places to put my tools on. I love the CNC mill I'm working on and I respect it and take care of it, it's a tool to do my job and I want to keep it in the best shape to do the job as best as I can.
That is a good attitude to have and your equipment will be better off with that discipline.
Steve
Ha! I use the exact same oil for rust prevention on everything. I like it cause it sticks. Seriously oiled up an engine block a year ago in an unheated storage unit, and its still rust free.
Same exact thing I’ve used for 30 years. Hopefully people pay attention.
Hi John,
I love them too! I oil the table and the bottom side of the board adsorbs the oil and helps prevent rust.
Steve
Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc. my first one was simply ripped hardboard with 1/4” hot melt glue attached ribs on front and rear. I used a contour gauge to map out the vise, transferred to the hard board, jig saw and your done. I use doall way lube on the surface. Since the ribs were glued, they kept the hardboard from warping. I get lexan scraps constantly, any plastic shops have scraps and usually their in the dumpster for those on a budget. A table saw doesn’t even blink at them. If you have to marry up several pieces of lexan or plexiglass, acetone is the solvent/glue.
Good ideas. I like the vise board on the right side to be 12". It keeps my right hand closer to the handle, with room to set up a rush job on the left side of the table.
Hi Nevin,
We have set up other jobs the same way. Works nice and you don't have to remove the vice which is an added bonus.
Steve
The only problem with that, and it depends on the machine, dovetail ways and worn machines seem to be the worst at it, is the farther unbalanced the table is, the more it tips on its ways, sometimes a problems sometimes not.
I have been going through your back catalogue after a recommendation from RR and I think you made two good points in this video that some lesser machinists seem to have never learnt or just ignore.
Offsetting the vice should be encouraged to, as you say, spread the wear on the lead screw. There is one YT video producer (no names, no pack drill, but he knows who he is) who poo-pooed the idea thinking it was unnecessary to even the wear on the gibs and dovetails, completely ignoring the screw. Putting the vice in the centre must be a need to satisfy a machinist's sense of proportion, perhaps?
As for quill stick out, the quill is only meant to take drilling loading, why do people think otherwise? I know my friend The Lipton has an aversion to winding his knee up , there is an amusing anecdote about it in his book, which he kindly sent me, about how to avoid doing it, involving searching for a mysterious noise.
ATB
c
Hi Chris,
Thanks for commenting. I can't count how many knee milling machines I worked on that were worn out in the 4" to 6" of travel centered where the vice was mounted. Spreading the wear by offsetting the vise is a simple way to reduce the wear and spread it out over a greater distance.
Steve
Go to your local restaurant supply and get a couple of PE cutting boards and cut them up instead of wood, they won't warp, they don't soak up stuff and they won't scratch anything.
So far these have been working fine. I like the idea that it soaks up oil on the under side because it keeps the table from rusting.
Steve
Genius
Thanks.
Great idea !
I haven't seen an R8 auxiliary collet rack suspended from a DRO before. Has it held up or started to sag over the years? I have the same mount it seems, and would like to implement it in my shop.
Hi Russell,
Yes, it holds up well. This is a common practice in most of the shops I worked at. It is real convenient.
Steve
Do you actually have ball screws in your mill or did you miss speak?
Hi Nevin,
Good catch! yes, it was a miss speak. It has a lead screw and nut like most other mills of this style.
Steve
That is exactly what I did that's funny
I do it to all the mills I owned.
Steve
Awesome
Where are you at I'm in back Jackson
We are in Holland Michigan.
Steve
Would you be willing to share any information on your rear Y Axis Way cover?
Hi Atlascycle,
The way cover came with the machine when we bought it. Here is one like it on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/Milling-Machine-Part-Retractable-Way-Cover-Back-3VKH-/181108233601?rmvSB=true It doesn't keep all the chips off the way so you still have to wipe them from time to time. It retracts as you move the Y axis to the back of the machine to take up the slop.
thank you for the information.
Thank You for the information
Jason
At 9:38 I guess you refer to yourself as “the machine”.
just use a piece of cardboard like a chad
the day before i watched this video, i made some really nice wooden table covers,
with the vice exactly in the middle. i'm quite upset now
Hi Jason,
You can always trim one off a few inches, then you would only have to make one other a few inches longer.
Steve
thats a good idea Steve. love the videos mate, keep 'em coming
That's only for an older machine right? I just got a new machine so there should be no wear yet.
chip burn it how the border agent know you aren't lying about your job!