The Magnum 5.2 / 5.9, The Slightly Worse LS Swap of the Mopar World - Dead Dodge Garage
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- čas přidán 24. 12. 2021
- An overview of the Magnum series of engines found in Dodge trucks from 1992-2002, including a basic description of the differences from an LA series engine and some basic points on swapping one into your old hotrod, muscle car or truck.
- Hudba
Jamie my favorite vehicle I ever had was a 2002 1500 ram 5.9, 355, towing package, regular cab 2 wd. My air intake was different, it was a huge rectangle on the inner fender. And my 46RE went 235k miles on three flushes and a shifter solenoid. I drove it hard too, for over 13 years. Love the content. Thanks.
I'm not sure how some people burn up the tranny's, they're pretty stout. Yes there's the unlucky ones that were doomed from the start for whatever their reasons but you really gotta hate the truck or just not care to push it to that point of failure. I've got a Dakota RT and I've beat on it, never done anything I didn't think it could handle but I had fun and I'm sure the previous owner did too. Just got a new cam dropped in it and heads with some slightly taller pistons so I'll see how it holds up to this. After all they did sell the Cummins with the 46re. I know they were beefed up a little but still
I love the demeanor and tone of your video.. it doesn’t hurt that the video is also informative.
Thank you! My tone has changed quite a bit since I started (as I have gotten less camera shy) but I always try to be informative. In fact I’m about to put out a series on tune up, timing, and carburetors.
A nice listing of the strengths and weaknesses of the Magnum, the only thing I question is the comment about the fuel consumption. I own a 5.9 in a 96 Indy Ram short box, I’ve owned and driven for all except the first 5 years of it’s life, and I’ve always thought the gas mileage was poor, mostly intown driving. I still keep it and appreciate the overall good looks of the truck, if anything, as trucks have gotten so huge, I appreciate it even more, but I can only tolerate the fuel consumption.
In the factory truck application, no. The fuel economy really isn’t good. At one time I had a 24V Cummins and a friend’s similar year Magnum truck, and the comparison was… bad. $20 sure disappeared in a hurry. But shoved in something lighter, with much less rotating weight and small tires, with better gearing, and ideally a manual transmission, I have had excellent results. I put one in a camper van with a four speed manual transmission (it has overdrive, but it’s about useless due to the rear gearing,) I consistently get 17 MPG or better. I haven’t done more than a few hundred miles in this Magnum swapped Charger, but I got the impression that it was very efficient. My brother has gotten 21 MPG in his carbureted Magnum powered Valiant. They have the potential to be pretty decent there. Not that normal people build muscle cars for fuel economy. Haha.
@@DeadDodgeGarage gearing has a lot to do with it. I was getting 17 to the gallon in 4wd short bed club cab before the motor let go. But my truck is also a factory 3.54 geared truck and at 75 she's turning 2k. Just sipping fuel
In time I wanna restore my 01 Dodge ram 1500 and it's got a 5.9 magnum, your information is helping a lot man
Yeah, like the gentleman below mentioned, a schematic would be awesome !
Let’s see some running videos and so on !
Looking forward to more videos.
I’d love to see more on your wiring setup. About to swap in a 360 magnum into my 87 w150.
Absolutely, planning to do a walkthrough as soon as I get a chance. I was hoping to have another swap subject to do a guide from scratch but may just do a detail video with my Charger.
@@DeadDodgeGarage awesome! Looking forward to it!
Yes please do! Love the vid btw. Thankz
I just pulled a 5.9 for an '84 bmw. Want to use the factory ecu but its an AWD ram from '01 and i dont think i can use it if im not using the transmission from the truck too
That last scene is gold, tho!
The 360 magnum is the kind of motor that you have to be mature to appreciate. Every issue you stated, I had in the original motor of my 02 sport sbsc 1500. I also flogged that motor and transmission for 200k miles. In the dunes, across the country to go dirtbike racing and stop light racing. Went through three water pumps and then a timing belt gasket. Blew up the transmission around the 190k mark. Got it rebuilt and toughened up. Engine went after I repaired two warped head gasket leaks. And like you said, the crosshatching was still present! Got a crate motor put into it and it's still as fun as the first day I got it.
It's the everyman's motor and with some love is a lot of fun on the cheap.
Exactly! It makes much better power than the anemic rating leads HP junkies to believe. They’re great street engines - but not screamers. Very cool.
Im a Ford guy but very much like the LA 360. Keep up the good work. You know your stuff and dont have a bad attitude like uncle phoney.
Show us on this doll where Unc hurt you, sissy Mary.
Here's a thought I had. Since you have to take apart so much of the engine, if any one of those three things fail (plenum gasket, water pump, timing cover gasket) on a high-mileage mill, then it's probably not a bad idea to just change out all three of them while you have the thing in pieces anyhow.
Exactly. It’s the best solution. Have to pull accessories and bracket for either job so it makes perfect sense.
The water pump is very time consuming to replace on these trucks. I had 8 hours invested with replacing it. And it’s my first time doing a water pump.
@@harrisondanner2650 I've done water pumps before, on older engines. It's one of the reasons I like in-line six-cylinder power plants so much, they are much easier to service. I also see why they Chevy 350 is such a popular engine with rodders, it's also a lot easier to service. Alas, they're getting harder to find, and Magnum engines are still plentiful, so I suppose it's time to figure out how to increase their power, efficiency, and reliability. Ideally, that would start with more resilient parts replacing known high-rate-of-failure items in the factory design.
@@harrisondanner2650 dude, it’s an hour job max. Book time is 1.5 hours, and I’ve always came in under book, and I’m not the fastest wrench around.
Car horn in the background made me stop the video and check my car lol, good video though thank you
Ahh I love my 727 torque flight lol!
I have a white 97 Dakota 4x4 with the 3.9L. I purchased the truck back in 2008 and it was practically in mint condition other than a random misfire on cylinder 2 which was a fairly easy fix. Just replaced an injector. I cheeped out and purchased an aftermarket one from AutoZone and the misfire persisted. I measured the resistance on a few known good OEM injectors from the other cylinders and the aftermarket one, and there was a big difference of 5 ohms. So, there was the problem. I installed an OEM injector, and the misfire was gone. I also replaced the lower plenum with a much thicker one I found online. Apparently, the OEM plenum is very thin and it's also a different type of metal than that of the engine block and the constant expansion and contraction of the plenum causes the seal to go bad but with a much thicker plenum that will not happen.
The truck has close to 200k miles and still runs great with no CEL. I have replaced the Crank position sensor, Water Pump Fuel pump. The AC still works but it has a slow leak that seems to be getting worse every year. The problem I am having now is that the steering shaft is worn and loose. I can't find the right one anywhere. The dealer does not carry it anymore and I can't find the right length I need online but I'm sure I will eventually. Overall, it has been a very reliable truck, it still looks great with very little rust on the body and it's easy to work on. I would recommend one to anyone who is mechanically inclined.
PUT A MANUAL IN IT, you will enjoy the engine better it lasts longer than the auto
That’s what I’m doing! The first three parts of the ‘Three Pedal Solution’ series are up now. I didn’t want to cut up the car but I’m glad I changed my mind. I know I’ll be happy with it.
@@DeadDodgeGarage a I have a carbed magnum in front of an np435 in my 73 power wagon, it’s amazing.
@@DeadDodgeGarage NV3500 5 speed from a 2wd 5.2 94-00 v8 dakota or the getrag 6 speed 2wd transmission from newer dakota v8 like 05-11
@@bongzonthebeat neither of those fit in these cars very well (or at all.) I put in an A833 four speed instead, and did some magic to make it work with the fuel injection system.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thats understandable for sure would have to remake the transmission tunnel for it to even work but hey i mean that would be a cool swap in something older hahaha glad you were able to make the 833 4 speed work!
Watching through Magnum playlist again. Bored and raining... \m/ (O.o) \m/
Magnum 5.9L is a horrible GASPIG, but has tons of low end torque w/ a Hugh Engines SER0814ALN-14 camshaft. The OEM kegger manifold has too much internal free space that kills torque potential of the Mopar Magnum v8=volume reduction plates are a necessity. As for the 46/47/48RE automatic transmission family, Borg-Warner solenoids are a must!
In my ‘91 Dodge high top Ram Van with a 5.9 Mag swap and an A833 overdrive, I average 17+ MPG. Fantastic, no, but much better than the 318 TBI it replaced. To this point I have not played with intakes on them at all. That may be in my future. My Charger is now running with a four speed behind a Magnum 5.9 as well, and it seems a little lackluster at the top of first and second gear. It feels like it freight trains in third. It may be fuel related. Tanks Inc EFI tank is my next big improvement.
My carbed 5.9 magnum gets better mileage than the LA 318 it replaced. It’s all about carb choice. I went with a vac secondary Holley 650, I can drive it as a 2 barrel if I keep my foot out of it.
That Dart though!..
got a 360 magnum in my 02 ram 1500, it sounds great with a cherrybomb exhaust on it
I know you did a newer version of the magnum video but I can't remember which one it was, anyway we talked about the ground squirrel chewed on the wiring harness for the 2000 dodge ram map sensor connector pigtail and the injector cylinder 7 connector pigtail and as it turned out the reason it wouldn't run was partly because of the map sensor and the one I couldn't see was two half chewed up wires including the bare ground wire goin down the back of the motor is wait for it,,, the crankshaft position sensor... damnit that's why it didn't run and I know that because it runs again!!!
Oh wow. Hey, you got it! Nice work.
My bought new, 98 Dakota 4 x 4, 5.2 trans still in good shape, changed fluid at 80,000 and 160,000 now have 195000 miles on it. Only major issue has been a rear diff rebuild at 180,000 when metal cage parts found in bottom of housing.
Awesome! They’re really great, dependable engines - with just a few common issues which I’ve done videos about. Rear diff doesn’t surprise me. I’ve replaced a few in Dakotas / Durangos.
You really should move that air filter to the from under the bumper or with air access form the hood! You are getting pure heat coming from the exhaust manifold where it is now.
Yes, I know. It was a temporary assembly made out of pieces hanging on the O’Reilly performance wall that turned into a permanent assembly. I am on team “that’s a hot air intake, friend” for sure. The good news is, I’ve sold the car and it’s not my problem anymore. Haha.
Hughes 232/238 cam, EQ heads, Hughes RPM AirGap EFI and mine made 437/441 on the engine dyno for my 71 Dart.
Awesome! Pretty much stock bottom end I’m assuming? I’ve read that they’re pretty easy to get to 400, but have never done it for myself yet.
Rob here...I was told that the flex plate from the L.A. series 360's would not fit on a magnum series engines.
The bolt pattern on the crank is the same. The external balance weight on the LA 360 (on the converter) and the Magnum 5.9 (on flex plate) is not the same. This is why I use the Magnum weighted flex plate as a sandwich plate behind the flywheel on these swaps with manual transmissions. With an automatic, you would use the Magnum flex plate and oblong one torque converter bolt hole.
Been thinking of this swap in my 72 Duster. I have a 727 laying around was planning on using it also. What’s your take on aftermarket fuel injection. Holley Sniper might be a happy medium between carb and stock fuel injection?
Sniper is alright. I’ve had some fun times trying to get them to work well. Have killed multiple fuel pumps and oxygen sensors. I’m not going to run out and buy one myself. I am going to set one up in a Coronet in the coming months though. Will have to do a video.
The 46rh/re and it’s siblings are essentially a 727 with overdrive and a lockup converter. They are GREAT transmissions that get an unwarranted bad rep. Yeah the converter could have been better factory but anyone that says a 727 is junk is a fool.
Nice swap
727s are fantastic. They deserve the legendary reputation they have. I’ve only killed two. Somewhere between gluing an overdrive on the back and installing a one way check valve in a cooling line that often restricts or blocks fluid flow, things went bad. I think we’re at four 46REs or similar killed so far - many more I’ve replaced or seen dead at the shop - and at least one more in the fleet that is slowly dying. Also four 904s, but that’s a different story. I loved the 46RE in the Charger - when it worked. The problems I had weren’t the transmission’s fault either. But I’ve seen enough to know at this point.
MP, the 46 has the exact opposite reputation as the mighty 727, you should know this. Much like fords 4r series has nowhere near the reputation of the c series. You can’t just slap od on a trans not built for it and expect it to work correctly.
Bought a complete running 02 1500 with a 5.9 and a 2wd 46RE to swap into my 64 D100. Would LOVE to keep it stock and use the factory ECU and harness... for the drivetrain only.... noticed your relays and it seems very easy to do... I'm looking now through your videos for more Magnum swap info but haven't seen it yet - any more tips to help me out?
It really is easy. You just need the three relays and fuses to power them for the ASD, fuel pump, and to power the transmission. There are control wires in the stock harness that go to said relays. Plus power feeds from key (I combine the two original ignition wires for this) and battery, a ground, and then of course all of the connectors for engine sensors. You can wire an OBD port if you like - it’s nice to have. I have been intending to do a wiring guide for over a year… but the right opportunity has not quite come my way yet. A rewire of my 5.9 swapped van may be coming soon.
Swapping one into my Fifth Avenue SOON
Awesome. I just brought home a swap candidate myself and will be doing a wiring guide finally.
Is the relay for the trans overdrive on/off
Actually no, it supplies power to all of the solenoids.
Am I the only one who seen the loose oil pan bolt?
It’s been almost a year… and someone finally noticed. Lol. It’s not loose… it’s cross threaded. Plenty tight! Those corner bolts are the worst
Any truth to the rumor that the 46RE got a little bit better in the 98+ trucks? I've owned a 98 5.9/46RE since new (25+ years now) and I have never had a lick of trouble with it. I've heard that the pre-98 version didn't flow enough fluid to the overdrive unit but in 98 the design was modified to improve this. No idea whether this is true. I don't work on my own transmission due to the reputation of it.
Then again, my dash is still in one piece, too, so maybe my truck is a unicorn.
Sure sounds like a unicorn to me! Haha. I don’t know about fluid to the overdrive, but all of those gas trucks (as I understand) have a one way check valve in one of the transmission cooler lines that can clog and restrict fluid circulation. When you get a transmission from Jasper, they give you a line and cooler kit to bypass that and eliminate any possible issues with it. We once put a transmission in a Durango, only to have it fail in about 100 miles. After we sent it back to the rebuilder, they called and told me that was almost certainly what happened, and agreed to fix it under warranty, but only if I bypassed the original cooler setup. They hadn’t sent any notes explaining this issue so I guess it was both of our fault. Lol.
L.s. came about in the 90s. The LA came out in the 50's. Took awhile for gm to catch on.
As much of a Chrysler fanboy as I am… I must say, GM’s small block beat the LA to production by several years, and the LA top end is fairly derivative of the ‘mouse’ small block setup - thrown on top of essentially the 50s A engine lower end. I would argue that the Chrysler offering is engineered better. But I’m sure there are legions of people that will disagree with me. Haha.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yeahhh idk about that lol I'd take a 350 small block over a 360. Much more aftermarket support and frankly, far more of them are on the road today.
@MTEN14 well they made mirrions and mirrions of them… unfortunately Chrysler started making total junk in the 70s and for the most part gave up on rear wheel drive cars and V8s all together in the 80s. Plenty of old beat to death Dodge trucks still wandering the landscape like zombies though… I like the larger lifter diameter and have seen fewer flat cams than Chevys - but more than zero. I like that the distributor doesn’t go through the intake so it can be left alone. The timing cover design on the Mopar is worse (but the big block got it right and copied Chevy.) Beyond that they’re really similar animals.
If you like the overdrive why did you not install the NV3500 manual 5 speed that also came behind the Ram 1500? That is what I have from a 1999 going into my 1949 Plymouth fastback.
Because they don’t just go in. I literally had one the whole time I was doing this, and still do. I thought long and hard about putting that in instead, but I didn’t want to hack up the floor (beyond the factory 4 speed hole,) chop up and modify the floor crossmember, make or buy another custom bolt in crossmember, build a custom shifter hump, buy a custom driveshaft, and on and on and on… it would’ve been great at the end, but it’s so much more work.
OK I got it .Some people like slip-o-matics and some like to push the peddle. I am a peddle pusher so I bought a peddle unit. You on the other hand got the slipper.Right?@@DeadDodgeGarage
I’m bout to swap one of these into my 93 ram 150. It has the v6 so it should be a very easy swap. Luckily I don’t have the 46re. I have the nv4500. Shouldn’t have any issues with that
Nice! Should work out great. Just need the correct weighted flywheel, and to modify the wiring and change PCM.
@@DeadDodgeGarage the motor I’m gonna pick up has a harness already. It’s from a 95. I can see it has the same ecm plug but I dunno ab the rest. I’ve done ls swap wiring before and may just use the v6 harness anyway. Just depends. I’ll also go ahead and do a rear main and clutch and flywheel while im at it and based on your recommendation I’ll do a bunch of gaskets too lmao
How's it going bud I know I just inherited a 92 dodge 150 with the 318 in it and I'm new to working on anything Dodge related. It's only got 120k on it which I think is pretty good. Anything you think I should do to get it going and running good it's been sitting a couple years . Thanks in advance ✌️
Check the fluids and the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. If they look old I’d give it a tune up. There isn’t much else to worry about unless it has issues - like leaking coolant from the timing cover, or excessive oil consumption and vacuum under the oil cap. They’re very stout engines mechanically.
Looking for 50¢ worth of advice for free (-:
I bought a 1994 Dodge B350 with a 318... questionable things had been done to the wiring due to mouse attack. Seems the shutdown relay was bypassed completely with a fused jumper straight to the battery connecting to a red and or/bl wiring of a different relay... but I digress.
Until running across your video here I had planned to do a carb conversion so I could lose as much suspect wiring as possible.
Carb "kits" for conversion seem to run a $1K less than an aftermarket EFI system.
Is there any recommendation for maker or resources you could recommend?
I fear too much damage has been done to wires around the motor compartment to continue to bypass fried wires.
It is a Roadtrek so it seems worth the effort to make it go down the road... which it had been doing on it a green and black striped wire got so hot it melted the insulation off.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Oh yeah. Definitely worth fixing a van like that. Carb manifolds are on eBay, and other than converting to a lower pressure fuel pump - either in the tank or on the frame - it’s an easy swap to do, with the manifold, a vacuum secondary carb (edelbrock?), some other small components (kickdown cable, throttle cable and bracket, etc) and your choice of regular old electronic ignition system. Might I recommend changing the engine compartment wiring harness though? It unbolts from the firewall, and isn’t -too- horrible to swap. There definitely isn’t a lot of access for some things, but you’re going to have to remove a lot of it for your swap anyway… I love the Magnum injection system and would advocate for keeping it intact if possible.
Well, I found the original issue today... the previous owner I think was mistaken. While there was mouse habitat on top of the motor, someone at some point in time laid the wiring harness that includes the fuel pump power on top of the catalytic converter. Some of the wire had been cooked bare so long that they had green patina on them. Without a deeper dive into the wiring diagrams, I do not know if those patina wires could have been the reason it was necessary to bypass the ShutDown Relay originally or not.
That green and black wire was the power to the fuel pump and it cooked naked in several places from the back of the transmission all the way up next to the ECU. Doing damage to other wires along the way.
But you are right while this rig was going down the road it was a pretty nice ride with enough towing power to not hold up traffic when pulling my little dump trailer.
Looking at a truck with a5 2 low mileage do u like the engine not much on engine smarts
Oh yeah. They’re great engines.
The manuals were the transmission to get back then. Almost unkillable
We the people demand a wiring walk through!... Please
No I know. Literally the people… they keep asking. I want to make this happen. I will!
I'm currently in the process of building a magnum for my 97 ram. Stroking it out as far as it can possibly go. Most parts are coming from Hughes engines. Top end is coming from indy heads. For those who want to use the 46RE, all the billet 47 goodies from the diesel world will fit in the 46 case. Do what you want with that information. That being said, the magnum in stock form is kind of a turd. Rated at less than 300 hp and just under 350 lb.ft. of torque it's closer to being down 150 from the 6 liter ls. The heads and the 2 barrel throttle body just have dismal flow performance. The 59 degree pushrod angle necessitates a push rod pinch in the intake runner and it just kills flow. If you want good flow in the heads you have 2 options. Modify your block to accept LA heads (drill oil passages for shaft oiling) or run trick flow heads. The bones are there, but it takes work to make up the ground it gives up to the ls from the factory.
I like what you’ve got going on. Sounds nuts, and I definitely support it. Haha. I haven’t played with Indy heads yet. One of these years I would like to do an all out build. Usually my stuff is more on the hopped up stock end of things.
Just a couple points though. The Magnum head is not the limiting factor for horsepower at the stock level - the kegger manifold and and factory computer limit the RPM range and are responsible for the anemic power rating. Even so, the engine makes great torque in the RPM range where it is used on the street. I’ll never forget the burnouts I did the first time I drove a 2001 5.9 Ram. It surprised me. Many people have found that a cam swap and a carburetor take the horsepower number around or over 400. The potential is there.
LA heads overall are not better. (Aftermarket aluminum obviously is a different story.) The Magnum has a better port and a much better chamber than essentially every LA head. The large valve 340/360 heads do have more flow potential in theory, but the only heads that don’t have the pushrod clearance problem are those race heads from the day. I can’t remember their designation right now. X2 or something. Even aftermarket aluminum heads (which have excellent power potential) have the same pushrod intrusion problem. The architecture as designed just doesn’t give it anywhere else to go. If one is building an engine under 500 HP, one really doesn’t need to do all that work to get away from the Magnum head.
Now, if one is bent on using LA heads, one has another option that is better than drilling the oil passage into a later Magnum block (or adding a line.) The first couple years of Magnum block (at least) share the same casting number as the last couple years of roller 360 block. These blocks still had the rocker shaft oil passage drilled, despite not needing it. I have seen one with a casting date as recent as mid 1995 that still has this (conventional wisdom said it was only 93 and 94 blocks I believe.)
Hello, I really could use some advice from you. I have '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 with 81k miles (runs on LPG only after the engine temp is up a little) and It has kind of a rough idle, I'm struggling to understand what causes it, and another problem is that it burns oil like (1 liter every 1000 km). And I have some error codes in the A/C unit that I don't remember at the time I'm writing this comment... could you help me identify my problems? I live in Romania (Europe) and we really don't have good mechanics only at the dealership but they charge a fortune.
I have a video about the Magnum 5.2/5.9 intake manifold “plenum” gasket problem, and this is certainly a possibility. Usually my test for that is, temporarily pop the PCV valve out of the valve cover, and with the engine idling, check for vacuum/suction underneath the oil cap. There should be none, and if there is any, the lower intake gasket is bad. It can be a pain to repair due to breaking intake bolts. I would not attempt this repair unless you are a fairly talented mechanic and are prepared to deal with broken bolt removal.
Our Grand Cherokee 5.2 always had a weird rough idle, but did not seem to have the intake gasket problem. I never got to the bottom of that unfortunately. My brother in law is still driving it.
I’ve never seen a Magnum engine running on LPG and am not familiar with any particulars related to that setup. My other thought is idle air valve? I have changed many of them. I do not know if this is even in play once the truck is running on LPG - although it must remain open and functional, or you probably wouldn’t have an idle at all.
The only other thing I can say is, make sure your tune up parts are in good condition - plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Sometimes basic things like this are overlooked. Oh, if a spark plug or two shows a bunch of crusty oil deposits, that points right back to the intake gasket. Hopefully this helps. Good luck.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I cleaned the PCV valve and it seems like the idle got a little better but the most noticeable is when I'm reaching to a stop or when I'm in heavy traffic (when I release the breaks and the cars starts to move it vibrates a lot).
The sparkplugs are new, I wanted to change the plug wires, cap and rotor but they don't sell them new here in Romania and Importing them from the USA doubles the cost after tax and shipping and VAT but I have some alternatives from Germany but I can't tell if they're good quality or not, haven't tried Amazon or Ebay tho.
LPG can be mounted only by professional staff accredited by the Romanian Gov and it's fine. It's running one of the best systems I could find but the one that makes the difference is the one that injects liquid LPG being the most expensive ( more expensive than the car) and the rest (like the one I have) inject vaporised LPG into the manifold. Since it's vaporised and it lacks lubrication It affects the Valves over time as far as I'm concerned.
I really hope It's not the gasket because It will be expensive to fix but as the car is already 25 years old I don't expect that rubber to last forever. I'll check it tomorrow, I could film my issue and upload it to youtube so you could take a look if you have the time and you wanna help...
Edit: forgot to say it takes 18 mpg on highway and 10 mpg in the city on LPG / 19 mpg highway and 11 mpg in the city on Gas it's normal?
Thanks for the tips!
@@dejanu551 I almost guarantee it’s the lower plenum plate gasket. You can fix it with permatex if that’s cheaper than a gasket in your country. Literally every rough idle or stalling problem I’ve seen on magnums stems from this issue, it also causes oil consumption and engine sludging.
@@throbbinwoodofcoxley6830 I’m afraid of the labour rather than the cost of the parts, eh maybe next year, now I replaced all the bushing (and the lower control arms), I have to fix the sunroof somehow it leaks 😵💫. Thanks for the tip, I’ll consider in the future, the oil consumption may be caused by the lpg as its a lot dryer than gasoline 🤔 and the fact that is injected in the intake manifold (liquid lpg injection is expensive, the system costs more than the car)
Thoughts on the 3.9 ?
It’s alright. Most of a 318 has to be pretty good I figure. If it was easier to bolt into an A body I would probably be more excited about it.
I ended up with a 5.2 with a stick shift.
So how about a how to?
Absolutely in the cards. I am looking for an acceptable swap candidate so I can detail the process start to finish.
I am fixing to drop a 99 5.9 magnum into a 68 charger
Awesome! Super easy swap. I still haven’t gotten around to doing a wiring guide video, but I will eventually. I loved the Magnum in my ‘66 Charger, but I had several teething problems - first the overdrive transmission, then the fuel pump setup I went with. If my ‘68 didn’t already have an awesome running 383, I might be inclined to do it again.
I'm about to swap my 318 with a 5.3 vortec
That’s interesting. What in? Boost?
@@DeadDodgeGarage 1987 5th avenue
Budget build. Stock for now and eventually add something. I have a 6.2 available but I want to build that one inside out myself
Bird
2 big drawbacks, easily fixed and wakes em the hell up.... put a stage 1 cam and springs in it, and deshroud the valves..... the shrouding in the combustion chamber is a huge stumbling block, and you dont have to hog out the intakes, just smooth em up, they flow fine... same with exhaust, jist smooth em out.... the deshrouding will add roughly 30 to 50 cfm on the intakes, and a .50 lift will make these little mosters stand up and snort 😉 and if you can find one, use a 46rh transmission, overdrive but hydraulic control, and drop a shift kit in it before installation....
how difficult do you think it would be to swap in a 5.2 magnum into a 1987 b250 van, and which manual transmission would be easiest to fit into it? plz and thx for any advice
It bolts in like it’s meant to. I did this in a ‘91 B250 van. I used an 833 overdrive, which took some science. The NV3500 used in 2wd Ram trucks would be a good choice. You would want the transmission crossmember used for overdrive transmissions in the 90s, and ideally you would want a transmission earlier than 99 so it still has the mechanical speedometer drive.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you so much!