Preparation & Cutting Plastic Battletech Mechs | Hex Base Removal & Modification
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- A quick video showing how to clean up mold lines on the new plastic Battletech mechs from Catalyst Game Labs boxed sets and eventually the Clan Invasion Kickstarter. There are also demonstrations of how to remove the plastic bases as well as how to remove and cut the miniatures for modification and reposing.
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Finally! The solution for all of the stray bits after scraping or filing on a mold line! This softer plastic has been giving me fits, and the brass brush is something I would never have thought of. Thanks!
It really makes a huge difference. Glad I could help!
Remember to wash your models with soap and water before painting, you have to get that mold release off to help the primer and paint adhere.
Absolutely. I made this clear in my metal model prep video but should have made that point again with these as well. A clean mini is a happy mini!
I just painted 8 without washing them - no apparent issues at all…
It's always a good idea to wash models before painting, weather they are metal or plastic.
The brass brush is the missing piece of my cleaning process with these - thanks.
I also like to repose my duplicate mechs to show variety in my factions. I've also had to reposition a few awkwardly facing mechs on their hex bases.
You can also drill the pegs out from underneath the base.
Just got into Battletech, thanks to Mr Tex and the BPL. I'm looking to paint up my first lance of mechs and I'm glad I found your videos. Thanks for the intro to this nerd skill. I'm looking forward to more.
Welcome, happy to have you!
Thanks for this! Super helpful so I can have my Death Commandos walking on top of crushed Davion mechs!
Glad it helped you out!
Thank you, it's been a while, nice to see you're still active.
Chalk up another one who didn't know about brass brushes!
Thanks guys. Been making great use if this vid since the kickstarter arrive.
Great to hear and happy to help the community!
Sounds like MechWarrior 2/MW2 Mercs soundtrack in the background. Nice :)
brass brush is the missing piece ive been searching for. thanks for the info!
I've had good luck so far using a jewelers' saw.
What a helpful tutorial this is! Thanks for sharing it.
You're very welcome!
Great advice.
To repose the minis you can also dunk them in hot water for a few seconds and move the limb to the position you like and hold till it cools. Dont heat the water to a boil but maybe hot enough for hot Coco or hot tea.
Correct. I already have a video of that.
Correct. I already have a video of that.
Thank you much for the video
will standard hobby plastic glue work for reassembling these models? I know it melts plastic to bond them together, but there are many different formulas of plastic and not all chemicals react the same with them
You need to use superglue or CA on these. Traditional plastic cement won't melt this plastic.
thanks for the tutorial. I have 2 questions. Should you always sand a plastic mini and don't use a file? In a past video, you used really hot water for the alpha strike lance pack. Is this still useful to do with these minis?
Same type of plastic so should still work.
I prefer to use sanding sticks and emery boards but if you have a metal file that yields a good result for you, then by all means use it. Hot water works great for reposing these miniatures.
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A while back I got one of Tamiya's plastic modeling files for some gunpla kits. You might want to give it a look some time. Doesn't really grind off like most standard files, but rather sort of "cuts", leaving a mark more like you'd find from a knife.
Major downside is, it's really hard to judge because of that. Sometimes you end up removing more than intended. Little less reliable, but super quick for getting decent finishes on gundam kits.
You think it might be possible with the Wolverine leg to do the hot water treatment on it like you could with reaper bones miniatures? Simply dunk the leg on boiling water first for about 10 seconds, take it out and adjust the leg quickly to the desires position, then place in a bowl of ice water for about 10 seconds to hold it in place. Granted I don't know the plastic similar to reaper's plastic but it might be worth experimenting to avoid damge.
Hot water works, but the leg would likely have an odd look with the amount of movement needed.
What cleaner would work to dissolve the super glue? Would a soak in Super Clean do the trick?
I use Super Clean for 40k miniatures that have been superglued with decent results so that's what I would try first.
@@CamoSpecsOnline test on a model you doht mind becoming bendy/melted
Removing a mini from the base is how I got 7 stitches in my thumb. Cut away from yourself and keep your fingers clear people!
I'm sorry to hear you got hurt, good safety advice as well.
Does the trick of putting them in a freezer to breakdown the glue work on these
I haven't tried but it certainly can't hurt to see if it helps.
What about preparing for painting? Do you need to wash and/or primer these?
Yes they need to be primed and washing any miniature beforehand is always the safest bet, especially if oils from your hands get all over them as you're trimming mold lines.
@@CamoSpecsOnline I've used warm water and a touch of dish soap. Is that what you would recommend?
@@DoctorPhobos Yup, that works great
I have not pulled apart the new plastic battletech mini's. Can you freeze them to make the glue easier to pop like other plastic/resin mini's or is it solvent glued in place?
It is a contact glue of some sort but I haven't noticed much help with freezing them, and the plastic usually gives before the glued portions. I haven't tried soaking in simple green to break down the glue but that's because it takes at least a week or so and I usually just start cutting instead.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Have you tried CA debonder?
@@Buster01Actual I have not. If I'm taking a plastic apart for a repose or mod, I'm just quicker with cutting it off and pinning the joint as I do it so frequently.
Wish I saw this before priming QQ
You can always remove the lines and put another layer of primer on as long as you don't apply it too thick it won't hide details.
if its just super glue holding to parts together wouldn't it be easier just to pop the model in the freezer over night to help make the glue brittle then it makes it easy to pop the model a part if You careful
That works on some joints, others are so tight that it's often easier to just cut. I've had joints pop off because there was no glue and ones that would have broken the limb if I didn't cut so the inconsistency really makes it difficult to have a "go to" method short of clean cuts.
I wish I had this several months ago. :-/
Have you though about hotwater and twisting?
It has its uses but sometimes you can only get ao much out of bending before it starts to look ods. czcams.com/video/DaE-OdlFGTk/video.html
What are you replacing these bases with? Are you re-applying the plastic bases or metal?
Either will work. It boils down to preference.
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B1BFlyer, I’m surprised you didn’t mention using hot water to soften the plastic for easier cutting or the hot/cold water treatment for bending arms/legs into different positions without stress damage to the plastic.
I have a video for that and these plastics really don't need to be softened like the AS ones to cut well. czcams.com/video/DaE-OdlFGTk/video.html
Volume was a little low.
I have yet to figure out why in post edit the volume is loud (i listen at max to make sure) and then when I upload it to CZcams it gets quieter. It's starting to get frustrating.
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