In your second tool, you bolted the mounting bar on both sides of the flexure slot. Basically eliminating any spring action. From what I can see in the video.
@@WinkysWorkshop Winky: jfl4066 is correct. You bolted both sides of the flexible tool mount to the holder. This eliminated its ability to flex, reintroducing chatter. Take out the front bolts and you should see it cut like the first one. It's like a tuning fork with both legs clamped. It cannot vibrate.
@@darrelsartin4355 Ah but at 1:52 he said "I put some bolts in there to kinda dampen the vibration" implying that he added these later, as a method to combat the chatter. I think he means that they were partially tightened to provide some friction simulating the potential friction on the other welded holder.
I really like it. I like all the tools and stuff you make. I have an old South Bend 9in, and I have to make all my tool attachments. And you have inspired me to keep making more, thank you for being here for all of us.
Thank you, looks like a sure winner. I do not have a milling machine so this will be a welding project and a lot of hand cutting with some modifications. Much appreciated.
How about two pins for the blade to sit on and then weld a plate that sits on top of the blade. Its a T shaped blade but the top of the blade is only slightly wider.
I do like what you have done Winky! I downloaded your plans and have put this on a long list of things to do. I will try to adapt the tool to my tool post. Thanks for your hard work!
Glad you like it! I have another video coming out Friday with a small update that significantly improves the function of this tool. If you just downloaded the plan the update is on the last page.
Thank you for the plans ! I just finished making the self centering adapter plate for my little 3 jaw chuck onto my 6 inch rotary table after watching your other video … I have also made an index jig for my lathe .. copied your ideas ! I am just a hobbiest but your videos are so good and the way you explain I can understand… Now I’ve just got to make this cut off tool ! Thanks again ! I like it ! Sincerely, John
Thanks and yes, it drives me crazy too. Waiting on a gear, I sure hope it matches. I made the gear with what I thought were the correct specs but it's terrible.
I just watched this video, and this is a great idea. I aways have problems parting off so I am going to build your spring parting blade holder. Thanks for the plans and Marry Christmas
I like it Wink you remind me so much of my Dad. He could just look at something and figure in his head a better way to make it function better. He was a WWII vet that didn’t know the meaning of it couldn’t be fixed. He never had access to a lathe and Mill and now I have those but don’t have near him creative mind. I would give anything if he were here now with access to my equipment to see what he would build. Again you remind me so much of him , simple but highly effective solutions to problems. Thanks for the great videos!!!
Thanks Richard. A version of this tool was made many years ago I just adapted it to a quick change post. I never tried the original but the one I made works great!
Your welcome. Good luck. I'm wondering is the blade more level might work a little better. This works well but chatters bad for about 1 second until its under load. Maybe level would not. I need to experiment more.
I like this revision much better than the original. I've downloaded the plans and got an AXA tool holder. Looking forward to building it and hopefully cure my parting troubles. Thanks Winky!!
I'll be making a small change to the plans today so wait until tomorrow and download them again. It's a minor change that is easy to do later if you have started the tool.
This is even better! I had made a rough sketch of the tool shown in the first video, pulling the measurements off of that and some of the pictures found online of that style tool holder, but this looks even better. Parting has been a major headache on my 12x36 and it seems like this might solve my problem. Thanks very much for staying on the development of this solution and sharing.
Thanks David. I love the problem solving but I'll admit that there was a moment of panic when the second tool of the first design I made didn't work very well. I'm guessing this panic gave me the needed push to come up with the second design. Its a lot easier to build and works better too. And, you're welcome! Thanks for the comment.
Mounting the blade at an angle is a good idea. Adds some top rake, but also reduces the front clearance. That alone can make a huge difference in stopping chatter.
You're welcome. It seems to work well for me aside from chatter at the start of the cut. Once the tool is under load it stops. it might be that the blade closer to level would work better but it's hard to say.
Thanks for all the effort to make this happen. I found one of the original tool holders on ebay. It will not fit in my tool holders but I bought it anyway. The intent was to use it to get starting point dimensions for a DIY tool, I'll compare what you have with what the original has when I build my holder.
"I found one of the original tool holders on ebay. It will not fit in my tool holders but I bought it anyway." So get the right tool holders and the right toolpost and the right top slide, cross slide, carriage and lathe - LOL
When i was in high school back in the early 70s , our shop teacher had us to use the cutoffs upside down and the lathe in reverse, he said it was less stressful on his nerves.
Yep, it has the same effect as this tool. If it tried to grab it pulls out of the cut. Many lathes, including mine are not set up to run a tool post in the back so it's not a good option. Thanks.
Also remember that you should not run lathes with threaded spindles in reverse if there is any load because of the danger of the chuck coming loose! You even need to be careful with stopping them quickly if there is a heavy workpiece in the chuck which can happen with a VFD with aggressive braking settings.
I never had any luck with HSS blade cut off tools, made several kinds and just wasn’t satisfied. However I see the concept and in my opinion the rigidity of using the tool block mass and bolting it to the top, plus shortening the distance from the quick change post is why it works so well. Basically that what I did with my last cut off block that uses inserts.
@@WinkysWorkshop , thanks, my Jet 12-36 lathe uses the BXA quick change. Now I have to dig around and see what I have in an extra tool holder! Lol! Take care. Tom
@@WinkysWorkshop I am not a professional welder, but I do weld. I weld using Tig, or Stick, or mig, depending on the application. I also, at one time, was thinking I didn't have enough light. I Finally realized I set the lens too dark. Have you considered a lens lightening adjustment? Is it possible your lens shade is too dark?
Having been a welder for 40 years mostly stick rod and heli arc processes if you can turn your amps up or go with a smaller wire size it will make your welds flatten out. If your welds hump up your either to cold or moving too slow. You might consider trying a dry heli arc dry meaning you just use argon gas and you don’t have coolant running through your torch. If you have a electric welder all you need is a heli arc torch and a bottle of argon. With this process you can control your travel speed and feed the wire as you need. Work well on small parts.
Great work, well done. The 5 degree up nose has the disadvantage that the tool height needs readjusting. That decreases the release angle as well. Suppose a deep part off and You want to extend the blade bit by bit as the parting off advances. Grinding the release angle is preferred as I feel.
A small price to pay for a better cutting tool. Grinding top rake on a standard blade has a problem in that the cut becomes narrower than the blade and can cause broken blades when it jams.
@@chrisstephens6673 I understand what You say. Checking my HSS 1/16x1/2x4-1/2 China blade the thicker upper part is 4 mm high/deep. That allows for a cut to create the chip maker.
Yes, having the angle creates minor drawback but resolves another issue. This blade has a concave surface on the top and a slight taper on the sides. Grinding a back relief would destroy this good geometry. This is by far the best blade I've ever used. This shape make the chips smaller than the cut. Here's a link a picture of the balde close up. czcams.com/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/video.html
@@WinkysWorkshop The sideview of Your blade looks pretty much like the blade I refer to. The taper is at least very small near the cutting edge. Grinding a bit ought to be possible. It cuts 6061 well without any back relief so far. I might be wrong but I think I've cut some steel as well that way.
Great project Mark, I really enjoyed your explanations and proof of principals. Nice penetration on the weld. When I was learning how to run my newly acquired NIG, a talented young welder taught me 2 things you control are the ground clamp, and it never hurts to clean to bare metal if possible. Would this holder work with an indexable cutter? Cheers and thanks for the drawings!
Fantastic video Mark ! I wonder if on your design the addition of a screw pushing on a heavy spring or maybe rubber slug which is pushing on a metal plunger and all this is built into the upper main housing so the metal plunger pushes onto the lower section of the flexture across the slot , could this be used to tune the amount of flex of the unit and maybe the harmonics that cause chatter ?
I think it would need to pull the spring closed to work well (like preloading the spring). A screw that pushed would likely make it act like a normal cutoff tool. Maybe a screw with s super strong spring pushing might work too.
It seems to work well. It sometimes chatters until full cutting pressure is achieved at the start of the cut but only for about 1 second. Slowing the RPM or shortening the blade seems to almost eliminate this however.
Thank you! Cheers! I just modified it a little more. It was trying to go under the stock at the end of the cut. Video on Friday but I updated the plans as well if you just downloaded them.
I like it ! couldn't find your email address so I'm hoping this is good enough ! Nobody does cuttoff as good as Winky !!!! i need one of those cut off tools !
Just watched your first south bend video. Nice haul. The tail stock looks just like mine. I had to make the ram for mine... it was missing. Mine's an 11 inch.
I've got to make myself something like that, parting off is still very much a lottery as to survival of the tool. No amount of stiffening things up has done any good, tightening the gibs, adjusting the bearings, I even replaced the compound with a solid block. Really strange that the second one of the earlier design didn't work, do you think there could be a difference in the material itself?
Obviously something it different between the first two but what I'm not sure. I I had to guess I'd say that the first was not ideal either. The pivot point (point of flex) on the second design is key I think. The tool moves back more as it deflect
Did the second tool of the first style fail because of vibration due to pieces being bolted and not welded? To me, even with an interference fit there would be movement to cause chatter.
This could be the case although it was a very tight fit. I suspect the previous design was on the edge of usable even on the first one I made. This new design moved the pivot point toward the cut. This makes the tool move back more when it tries to grab. It seems to be VERY forgiving. Speed and feeds have very little effect.
Well I made the original cross slide rigid mounted one and it still works fine but will have to have a crack at this one too as it looks easier to set up. Might try something different by using 14mm x 2mm blades
I'm using 130 wt. I made a gear and didn't get it right. Actually I made it 3 times!!! I think I have some bad info on the gears. I have a gear ordered. The only reason I made one was that 16 DP with a 14.5 PA are not made 5/8" wide. I ordered a 1/2" wide. But thanks anyway. Hopefully it will work... if not I know I'm working with a different PA. The DP is easy to figure.
I like it very much ,plus the other videos you put out . I llve in uk so no draw for me .. But would appreciate the plans on a Email . I have a small shop and enjoy making parts in steel plus making things in wood furniture etc . Looking to the plans All though i live in uk ., thanks for all your videos have great pleasure watching them and learning from them .. All the best .Geo.
I intended to build your original design from January but procrastination paid off as I like this design better. I made it last week and it works great. Thank you for supplying the drawings. I would suggest you make a note on the piece that bolts to the top of the AXA holder though. I have holders from 3 different manufacturers and the spacing between the 2 holes is different on all of them, one was even .830" but I used one that was .880". So in order to ensure a tight fit folks should measure the AXA holder they are going to use before making this part. I increased the chamfer to get more weld penetration and also continued the weld around the front down to the start of the slot opening to give more stability in the Y axis. I didn't have a good way to make the bandsaw cuts so I used a 1/8" end mill for the slot. This probably works better for your revision of adding a screw to limit movement. Enjoy your videos; keep up the good work.
Yeah, an 1/8" slot is fine. The the extra weld work okay? It seems like the extra weld would stop it from flexing but the amount of flex needed is difficult to determine anyway. Maybe less flex is better.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, the extra weld works fine. Since the upper portion is welded this small area where I also welded has no affect on limiting any flex since that all takes place on the portion below the slot. I also didn't mention that, since I am fortunate enough to have a small surface grinder, I ground those 2 main parts not only to have a smooth surface where they rub together when flexing but also to have more precise thickness which I think would help the blade keep it's perpendicularity while in use. Of course, careful face milling would work also. One of the things I think a lot of us old hobby guys complain about is having to adjust the height of the blade holder every time you have to change the stick out length. This is the case with the cut off blade holder that came with my AXA set and also with this design. But because of how this design works I wonder if the blade could be parallel to the bed. Unless you know of a reason why it wouldn't work or have already tried it I'm thinking about making one myself and trying it. Thanks again for resurrecting and old design, adapting it to our modern tool holders and sharing it.
@@johnziebron4058 Unless you grind a back relief the blade would act like a scraper if it was level. However, I also made a direct mount cut off blade holder that works perfectly with a level blade. It might also work well with this design... Try it and let me know. The direct mount is very solid but I like the quick change for speed. czcams.com/video/B6NMY73eOxU/video.html
@@WinkysWorkshop I watched all your videos on the subject of cutoff tooling. I realize the significance of having a solid mount and I like this design with the flex slot. I made this holder based on your drawings (I have the same cut off blade except mine are 1/2" tall) and it worked well but I just don't like having the blade on an angle because every time you need to change the stick out length you have to adjust the height of the holder. So I decided to make a new blade holder based on this same basic design but welding part B with no angle so the blade slot is parallel to the top of the cross slide. I did make a couple of changes though. Part A is the same size except that I use the holes at each end of the AXA holder instead of just the the back 2 holes. For part B I used 2" wide stock (milled to 1 7/8) so I could put 2 blade hold downs. The 1/2" hole is in the same location so my slot ends up being longer. A generous chamfer allows for a penetrating weld between parts A and B after which I milled this top surface flush. I also welded the right side of part B down to the slot opening. I do not require part C for height adjustment. Instead I opted to use a "shim" under the AXA holder for making a more solid mounting. You want the tip of the blade to be around the center of the spindle and in order to zero in on the shim thickness I used drills initially. My final shim ended up being .345". (Final shim thickness can also be varied by changing the blade position on part B). I was able to do a lot of testing today. Since I already had my collet chuck on I used some 3/4" stock first and had great results after playing with spindle and cross slide speeds. My final test results were with my 6" 3 jaw chuck (similar to yours with the hang out) and using 1 7/8" diameter stock which put my 11 inch Logan almost at the limits of cross slide retracted and enough blade stick out to reach the center. When I switched to the 3 jaw chuck I turned my compound to be in line with the cross slide for better support. I had to put my lathe in back gears for this size stock but it worked great. My back gear speed was 120 RPMs and I had my compound speed at 2 1/2 thousands per revolution. I put an indicator on back end of the blade and zeroed it. After the blade started the cut the indicator was moving slightly between 6 and 7 thousands. There was no chatter even when starting the cut. The cut took almost 5 minutes but I'm just a hobbyist, not production work. I could probably move my belt to a different pulley ration to get a faster back gear speed and it should still work fine. The previous testing I did with slight changes in height ended up with my final shim putting the tip of the blade exactly at the center of spindle. I made several cuts on this larger stock and all ended up with no nib on the piece in the chuck. In fact, you can't tell the difference if a facing tool was used or not. I'm so glad this holder experiment was not a waste of time and I wish I could include some pictures and even a video here to prove it. So maybe you could end up doing another video for other "lazy" machinists who don't like to have to mess with changing cut off blade height.
Sorry no. You might try down sizing the holder. They also make smaller blades the same as the one I used that work great. They just don't go very deep. Maybe 1 inch max.
@@JimsShed I tried chain lube but I'll have to admit that I may have had the wrong type. It wasn't as thick as the stuff I used to get. What brand do you use?
@@WinkysWorkshop The product I use is GRO Chain Lube (200ml). I'm in Australia so not sure what's available where you are. The BelRay products suggested by @PhatPizza are similar.
You know I have never calculated them. I built the drive for the lathe and never did the math. I'm guessing a little fast but it works (maybe 700 RPM for 1-inch stock). I use back gear for 1.5" stock. I tried to figure the feed but the threading chart doesn't make sense to me. The chart is all TPI but above it there are words that say, "Longitudinal Feeds 2 1/3 Times Treads Per Inch" ? This doesn't make sense to me. 24 TPI=55 and 16 TPI=12. I'm using 24 or 48 but the feed rates don't jive. Any idea?
No idea what sort of time and materials you have in this parting tool, but you might consider selling them. This is a giant improvement over what I'm used to with parting.
Thanks! Several have said the same. Maybe I need to look into this. I guess a couple hours work, $20 for the axa holder and maybe $12 bucks in materials not counting the blade. I'd to figure out a way to make it work with different tool posts.
@@WinkysWorkshop Like probably everyone else that watches your channel, I sent you an email. I have the same tool post as you do so this is going to slide right into place for me. I liked the original design with a bar. This makes the tool holder universal since every tool post can hold a bar. I think welding your new hinge section to a bar would work.
@@WinkysWorkshop many years ago I played with a threading tool of the same type as your parting one and put a screw in to be able to lock the gap, it worked better locked but then the springy bit might have been too springy. Perhaps it is time to try again?🤔
I'm making one of these myself. I'm wondering how long the black tool holder you used for the dovetail is. The one I copied is 3" long. My top part that bolts on will overhang the tool holder quite a bit. I'm wondering if I have to shorten it some. I made your tap guide as well. that works great. thanks for sharing.
Mine overhangs about 1/2" but that's a very good point. with a little modification you could move it back. I also wonder it slightly less upward tilt might be better. My direct mount design worked very well and it was level.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks, I finely figured out what I was looking at in some of the video. by pausing. yeah, I haven't cut that slot for the tool as my new tool hasn't arrived yet.Ill consider 3 degrees. hopefully mine will work as good as yours.
If you still have the one that didn't work, and it was made from the same steel, I am wondering if the application of heat at the same point that the weld was on the first, might make the difference?
Moving the pivot point further forward in this design increases the force needed for a given deflection- in other words it is stiffer. This can be adjusted via the length of tool projecting from the holder (which this design will be more sensitive to). There may be an optimum value...
Yes, I agree 100%. So far 1 inch stick out works well (2 inch stock). The blade stick out has been set for 1.5" stock for a long time. Maybe I'll leave it set for 2" diameter now.
I thin you totally missed how this design works. Look at the plans I posted. The top bar is solid. The flexing takes place at the top of the vertical piece where the hole is drilled.
Would this work with the carbide insert type cutoff blades? I've destroyed so many of those things I've developed a complex about using the lathe to cut off discs of any type.
@@stevewilliams2498 There were reps traveling between towns selling the stuff to workshops. One of them split down the centerline, so I can say without a doubt, that's all you can get in Southern Africa, "Boss bought Chinesium".
Carbide isn't as sharp which is why I went back to the blade. However... this set up might works very well with a carbide tool. I may have to explore this! Thanks!
You may be correct but I made a tool before this one that was thicker and it didn't work well. I also moved the point of flex toward the cutting point so I'm not sure which effected the performance.
Winky, I like the look of that unit and it is certainly less intrusive compared to the original Armstrong design but I am not sure that I can afford the reduced usable width with that attachment in place. I wish we could get affordable T profile cutoff blades here in Aus, the only place I can find is 50AUD plus shipping for a 4inch piece. Years ago I had a small piece that came with a cutoff tool holder from the UK but that has long gone to the graveyard of broken tools. Good on you for making the plans available, Is there such a thing as a postal VPN so I can pretend to be in the US?
@@WinkysWorkshop perhaps you could order me a couple and forward using letter post (depending on postage I would obviously reimburse using paypay) as I am sure they wouldn't weigh that much.
I am very interested to hear why the second tool didn’t work like the first, so if you or your viewers figure it out I would love to hear about it. Jim
I like the new design better but I will admit that I'm baffled. I moved the point of flex forward on the new design. this makes the tool pull back more when deflected. Maybe the first one was very close to not working also...
Thanks for the free download. No secret I have problems parting off. I put it down to having old worn out machines. I am going to try your design. It doesn't make sense to me ? Allowing the blade to deflect down means either it stays down, suggesting that the setup is too high in the 1st place, or that it springs back up so why doesn't that make it dig in deeper as it comes up ? A mystery to be investigated.
No I haven't made drawing because it didn't work as well and second one I made of the first type was terrible. I do see the advantage of the first type however. It can be put in any size tool holder. I thought about mounting the new design the same but it increases the amount of overhang... Utilizing the tool holder like I did moved the tool about 5/8" closer to the post.
Going to have to make one of these. I use BXA. Question: Thought on the size of flexure cross sectional area. Approach to sizing that amount of material. Looks like a perfect part to be reviewed with a stress-strain software program. The load for parting feed rate, stock material, etc. How much flex needed for deflection to get rid of chatter tied back to tool feed rate. An interesting problem to grind out the numbers on.
Interesting... There is a LOT going on with this tool and it's hard to know how everything interact. The point of flex in relation to the point of cut is huge. As you move the point closer to the point of cut (straight away from the operator) the more the tool retracts when deflected. I don't think it actually retracts when you factor in the feed but I do think it is compensating for flex in the compound and tool post. For this reason I think the ideal design may vary with the lathe it is used on. Hopefully not too much however.
@@WinkysWorkshop It's a complicated design digging down a few layers. Have to look into it closer. Might have to drop a question on Lipton. I'll wait till he's done with shop move and life is more stable for him. Pondering if the flexure design would be upgrade for my CNC lathe. Don't have chatter issue, so if it's not broke, don't mess with it is thought. I set it based on just feeds and speeds. I also have used the SFM mode for rpm before, didn't seem to matter. SFM mode is a nice feature for increasing insert life for other tools.
@@johnm840 From what Lipton said in his video I'd say his understanding is probably the same as mine but I could be wrong. I'm not sure I'd use the spring design if I wasn't having any problems. There are too drawbacks but one you got covered. The tool tends to dip under the stock at the end of the cut due to low RPM (SFPM). The other is a pattern on the stock on the end that is cut. It's basically flat but I assume they are due to a resonance change.
@@WinkysWorkshop Tom knows more than he said in video, and added time as well to learn more. Being Engineer (EE) take limits and evaluate. IF flexure is 4X+ beefier, then no motion from tool force pushing down on it. Make it much smaller, then the tool force will bend the flexure to the limit where the slot is gone with contact to back side. Not much help there for determining sweet spot. For a certain chip size, and rpm. What is down force on parting blade. That said need to write an equation with variables ( rpm, Depth of cut, diameter of stock, material, etc) A task unto itself. Next the flexture and motion of it based on the force load. sound be some info out there on this I would think. A common design with force gauges and other devices. Used to have access to an ME with stress-strain software on his computer. Was pretty interesting as he dinged around with bike frames for a fellow engineer in the group at that time. He messed with that program for a good 6 months before it was useful. Not an option these days as we all work in different capacities. Have to go old fashion way with a free body diagram and make assumption. Or just make a part and test it with a known force and measure deflection. Repeat for a few parts to get a curve. I like option to think about it more.
@@johnm840 All interesting stuff but too time consuming for my life right now. The amount or flex away from the cut vs downward movement is simple math but the rest isn't so easy. I will say, the movement is very slight until you get very small (less that 1/32" in diameter). At this point the SFPM is not adequate and the tool tends to go under the stock. It breaks off but always leaves a numb.
Can you lathe take a 3/16" depth of cut without effort? If it cant, then you can't use a 3/16" parting blade. Pretty simple, parting tools should be about 80% of the max depth of cut your machine can handle. After that, parting is just like turning, use a slightly reduced speed, but feed should be the same. People get in trouble when they try to cut too slow - cram the tool in there, if the machine stalls, get a thinner tool or a bigger machine.
I'm not sure I understand but the blade is 3/32". And yes that's about what the lathe can handle. I just made about 15 cuts at a verity of speeds and feeds cutting 1.5" bar. It will cut at 800 RPM but 180 was better. 800 was good for 1-inch but I still like the lower speeds... less oil slinging. Feed rates were .001 to .002 per rev.
Another great video AND a puzzle tossed in. The first tool worked and the second one didn't. Why???? If you find the answer please let us know, sometimes you can learn a lot from a puzzle!
Yeah... I kind of freaked out then that happened. I suspect the first tool was close to not working well and a very slight difference pushed it over the edge. There is a lot of stuff going on with this spring idea. The location of the point of pivot, the strength of the spring, the weight. etc.. I think the biggest difference in the new design is where I moved the pivot point. By moving it toward the cutting point the tool moves back more when it is deflected.
In your second tool, you bolted the mounting bar on both sides of the flexure slot. Basically eliminating any spring action. From what I can see in the video.
The spring is in the vertical bar where I drilled the hole. The weld is above this point.
@@WinkysWorkshop Winky: jfl4066 is correct. You bolted both sides of the flexible tool mount to the holder. This eliminated its ability to flex, reintroducing chatter. Take out the front bolts and you should see it cut like the first one. It's like a tuning fork with both legs clamped. It cannot vibrate.
@@darrelsartin4355 Ah but at 1:52 he said "I put some bolts in there to kinda dampen the vibration" implying that he added these later, as a method to combat the chatter. I think he means that they were partially tightened to provide some friction simulating the potential friction on the other welded holder.
My thoughts also.
@@geoffscott265 Thank you sir!!!!!
I really like it. I like all the tools and stuff you make. I have an old South Bend 9in, and I have to make all my tool attachments. And you have inspired me to keep making more, thank you for being here for all of us.
Thanks Steven! Good to hear this.
I enjoy your experimentally-focused attitude and can-do spirit! keep up the good work!
Thanks Hoyt! I enjoy doing this!
Thank you, looks like a sure winner. I do not have a milling machine so this will be a welding project and a lot of hand cutting with some modifications. Much appreciated.
How about two pins for the blade to sit on and then weld a plate that sits on top of the blade. Its a T shaped blade but the top of the blade is only slightly wider.
Thank you so much for your idea. Parting off has been a real challenge on my Atlas 10" lathe. Looking forward to making this tool!
Glad it was helpful and I totally understand. So far it's worked perfect for me.
Thank you for sharing your work.
I'm putting this tool on my list of things to make. Your workmanship is top notch.
Thanks. I hope it works well for you. So far I love it.
Downloaded the plans.
Built the tool.
Wonderful results, can highly recommend it.
Thank you so much from Melbourne Australia
This is good to hear. Thanks!
This is superb. Not only are you a fine craftsman, but you are a good designer as well. I am really impressed with this new design you showcase here.
Thanks, for the most part it works very well.
I do like what you have done Winky! I downloaded your plans and have put this on a long list of things to do. I will try to adapt the tool to my tool post. Thanks for your hard work!
Awesome! Thank you!
I Like It!! 😀 Nice cut-off toolholder and another projekt on my todo list. Thanks for the plans. 🖖
Glad you like it! I have another video coming out Friday with a small update that significantly improves the function of this tool. If you just downloaded the plan the update is on the last page.
Well done!! Congratulations on such excellent and clear plans.
Thanks, I see you found part 2.
Thank you for the plans ! I just finished making the self centering adapter plate for my little 3 jaw chuck onto my 6 inch rotary table after watching your other video … I have also made an index jig for my lathe .. copied your ideas ! I am just a hobbiest but your videos are so good and the way you explain I can understand… Now I’ve just got to make this cut off tool ! Thanks again ! I like it ! Sincerely, John
The tool isn't perfect but totally usable. Maybe you can even make it better. Thanks
I have tried almost every type of cut off tool and holder with not a great deal of success, I will make one of these , great idea, thanks Winky
Good luck! it's not perfect but it rarely fails me.
Good video nice looking tool holder! That noise of the Lathe , would drive me crazy!!lol!!!!
Thanks and yes, it drives me crazy too. Waiting on a gear, I sure hope it matches. I made the gear with what I thought were the correct specs but it's terrible.
I just watched this video, and this is a great idea. I aways have problems parting off so I am going to build your spring parting blade holder. Thanks for the plans and Marry Christmas
Sounds great!
I like it
Wink you remind me so much of my Dad. He could just look at something and figure in his head a better way to make it function better. He was a WWII vet that didn’t know the meaning of it couldn’t be fixed. He never had access to a lathe and Mill and now I have those but don’t have near him creative mind. I would give anything if he were here now with access to my equipment to see what he would build. Again you remind me so much of him , simple but highly effective solutions to problems. Thanks for the great videos!!!
I like it
I struggle with cutoff tools - I think this will do the job on my 9” south bend
This comment made my day! Thanks!
Thanks Richard. A version of this tool was made many years ago I just adapted it to a quick change post. I never tried the original but the one I made works great!
Even better then the first one, thanks for sharing Winky.
I agree... easier to make and works better too. Thanks
thank you for the plans! It will be a valuable addition into my toolbox. Much appreciated.
Your welcome. Good luck. I'm wondering is the blade more level might work a little better. This works well but chatters bad for about 1 second until its under load. Maybe level would not. I need to experiment more.
I like this revision much better than the original. I've downloaded the plans and got an AXA tool holder. Looking forward to building it and hopefully cure my parting troubles. Thanks Winky!!
I'll be making a small change to the plans today so wait until tomorrow and download them again. It's a minor change that is easy to do later if you have started the tool.
That is amazing and very generous of you!
Thanks Dan~! I love doing this stuff.
Thanks for sharing the plan. Nice tool and easy to make.
You bet, thanks for watching.
This is even better! I had made a rough sketch of the tool shown in the first video, pulling the measurements off of that and some of the pictures found online of that style tool holder, but this looks even better. Parting has been a major headache on my 12x36 and it seems like this might solve my problem. Thanks very much for staying on the development of this solution and sharing.
Thanks David. I love the problem solving but I'll admit that there was a moment of panic when the second tool of the first design I made didn't work very well. I'm guessing this panic gave me the needed push to come up with the second design. Its a lot easier to build and works better too. And, you're welcome! Thanks for the comment.
Very interesting winky, great video, keep'um coming..
Thank you! Will do!
I like that idea, use the tool you are about to make to make the tool. So what I need is a design for a tool that makes itself. I LIKE IT!
Haha... you are the first to mention that. I thought it was funny, Thanks!
Like it a lot, even if ima norwegian! Never had any good tools for parting off so im gona make one. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! It's fairly easy to make although the slot for the blade is critical. If you can find the same blade I highly recommend it.
Killer idea you have there Mister!
Thanks Kerry, it really does work well.
Thank you for the plans and excellent video!
Glad you like them! You're welcome
Very nice Mark. I just downloaded the plans. Thank you!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Thanks for the plans! I don't live in the US! I'll make my own as I have a very different tool post! Cheers, Matthew
Yeah... I think if you follow the basic geometry it will work even if the size is a little different. Thanks
Mounting the blade at an angle is a good idea. Adds some top rake, but also reduces the front clearance. That alone can make a huge difference in stopping chatter.
Very true.
Thank you. I need a good cut off tool but didn't buy one yet, so I'll make yours and see how it goes.
You're welcome. It seems to work well for me aside from chatter at the start of the cut. Once the tool is under load it stops. it might be that the blade closer to level would work better but it's hard to say.
Thanks for all the effort to make this happen.
I found one of the original tool holders on ebay. It will not fit in my tool holders but I bought it anyway. The intent was to use it to get starting point dimensions for a DIY tool, I'll compare what you have with what the original has when I build my holder.
Interesting! Be sure and download the plans. Also follow up and post how it works out. Thanks for sharing
"I found one of the original tool holders on ebay. It will not fit in my tool holders but I bought it anyway."
So get the right tool holders
and the right toolpost
and the right top slide, cross slide, carriage and lathe - LOL
Is it possible to maybe modify the one you got from ebay in order to adapt it to your toolpost?
Great video mark liked the effects too
Thanks Troy!
Great work and really stimulates the old parting off (cut off in USA 😉) section of my brain. Always a head ache on the tiny lathe I have to use.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!
When i was in high school back in the early 70s , our shop teacher had us to use the cutoffs upside down and the lathe in reverse, he said it was less stressful on his nerves.
Yep, it has the same effect as this tool. If it tried to grab it pulls out of the cut. Many lathes, including mine are not set up to run a tool post in the back so it's not a good option. Thanks.
Also remember that you should not run lathes with threaded spindles in reverse if there is any load because of the danger of the chuck coming loose! You even need to be careful with stopping them quickly if there is a heavy workpiece in the chuck which can happen with a VFD with aggressive braking settings.
You got my attention last week. This is interesting stuff!!
Thanks! Be sure and download the plans.
@@WinkysWorkshop I will definitely build one. I em starting a small eBay part and I em cutting off a lot of spacers for it.
Good looking tool. I've been looking for an Armstrong type tool for the Logan. this fits the bill. Thanks!
You bet, I think you will like it.
I never had any luck with HSS blade cut off tools, made several kinds and just wasn’t satisfied. However I see the concept and in my opinion the rigidity of using the tool block mass and bolting it to the top, plus shortening the distance from the quick change post is why it works so well. Basically that what I did with my last cut off block that uses inserts.
Are you talking about my direct mount tool?
@@WinkysWorkshop no, I made up a rigid custom block. czcams.com/video/f8Z4iTzGGhU/video.html
Hi Mark, I like the new design. Its pretty massive and sturdy. Another success good Sir. "I like it" ;) Gilles
Thanks 👍
Very interesting. I always have problems parting off on my lathe, and I can't figure out why. I will give it a go with yous idea.
Yeah... absolute rigidity is the key to regulars cut-off methods. This tool makes things much more forgiving!
Thank you for the plans.
Your very welcome. Let me know how it works for you.
Very nice build! I gotta make one of these for my little Jet lathe!
Thanks, I hope it works. You might have to down size it. The same blade are available in smaller sizes. they work well but can't cut as deep.
@@WinkysWorkshop , thanks, my Jet 12-36 lathe uses the BXA quick change. Now I have to dig around and see what I have in an extra tool holder! Lol! Take care. Tom
@@Okie-Tom ah... You said Little Jet. You have a nice lathe. I ran one of those for a couple hours.
Nice... a big improvement. Well done!
Some say ugly welds, while others say... "Get er Done"! 😁
I think I need a brighter light Thanks!
@@WinkysWorkshop
I am not a professional welder, but I do weld. I weld using Tig, or Stick, or mig, depending on the application. I also, at one time, was thinking I didn't have enough light. I Finally realized I set the lens too dark. Have you considered a lens lightening adjustment? Is it possible your lens shade is too dark?
I like it, I love it, I want some more of it!
HA... seems like I remember a song with those words!
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes Sir! Had me singing it when you kept say I like it...
Having been a welder for 40 years mostly stick rod and heli arc processes if you can turn your amps up or go with a smaller wire size it will make your welds flatten out. If your welds hump up your either to cold or moving too slow. You might consider trying a dry heli arc dry meaning you just use argon gas and you don’t have coolant running through your torch. If you have a electric welder all you need is a heli arc torch and a bottle of argon. With this process you can control your travel speed and feed the wire as you need. Work well on small parts.
I'm a terrible welder but a wimpy welder is at least part of the problem. It's a 120V MIG using argon and C02 mix.
I LIKE IT this solves a years long problem for me
I've only tested it on my lathe but cutoff has been an issue with a blade mounted to my quick change. Hopefully this works well for others.
Nice job, i really like it!👍
Thanks!
Awesome - email sent. Thanks for the plans. I promise to make one if I don’t win it 😜
Cool. And thanks!
Great work, well done.
The 5 degree up nose has the disadvantage that the tool height needs readjusting. That decreases the release angle as well. Suppose a deep part off and You want to extend the blade bit by bit as the parting off advances. Grinding the release angle is preferred as I feel.
A small price to pay for a better cutting tool. Grinding top rake on a standard blade has a problem in that the cut becomes narrower than the blade and can cause broken blades when it jams.
@@chrisstephens6673 I understand what You say. Checking my HSS 1/16x1/2x4-1/2 China blade the thicker upper part is 4 mm high/deep. That allows for a cut to create the chip maker.
Yes, having the angle creates minor drawback but resolves another issue. This blade has a concave surface on the top and a slight taper on the sides. Grinding a back relief would destroy this good geometry. This is by far the best blade I've ever used. This shape make the chips smaller than the cut. Here's a link a picture of the balde close up. czcams.com/video/s9qcd5-wj3c/video.html
@@WinkysWorkshop The sideview of Your blade looks pretty much like the blade I refer to. The taper is at least very small near the cutting edge. Grinding a bit ought to be possible.
It cuts 6061 well without any back relief so far. I might be wrong but I think I've cut some steel as well that way.
Mark. I squirt 90 wt oil in to quick change gear box. It reduces the noise
Yeah that helps for a while. I do that too.
I like it
Tool looks great too
Thanks
Great project Mark, I really enjoyed your explanations and proof of principals. Nice penetration on the weld. When I was learning how to run my newly acquired NIG, a talented young welder taught me 2 things you control are the ground clamp, and it never hurts to clean to bare metal if possible. Would this holder work with an indexable cutter? Cheers and thanks for the drawings!
I'll be exploring inserts with this tool. It should work!
Fantastic video Mark !
I wonder if on your design the addition of a screw pushing on a heavy spring or maybe rubber slug which is pushing on a metal plunger and all this is built into the upper main housing so the metal plunger pushes onto the lower section of the flexture across the slot , could this be used to tune the amount of flex of the unit and maybe the harmonics that cause chatter ?
I think it would need to pull the spring closed to work well (like preloading the spring). A screw that pushed would likely make it act like a normal cutoff tool. Maybe a screw with s super strong spring pushing might work too.
Nice job!
Thanks!
Excellent vids
Glad you think so! Thanks!
Excellent 👍🏻👌🏻
Thanks Don, I saw where you entered the drawing. Can you run an AXA on that monster of a lathe you have?
This is just great. I have to make one. I'm useless with a parting tool.
It seems to work well. It sometimes chatters until full cutting pressure is achieved at the start of the cut but only for about 1 second. Slowing the RPM or shortening the blade seems to almost eliminate this however.
Gday, that’s a great design and works fantastic, I like to mate, Cheers
Thank you! Cheers! I just modified it a little more. It was trying to go under the stock at the end of the cut. Video on Friday but I updated the plans as well if you just downloaded them.
I like it !
couldn't find your email address so I'm hoping this is good enough ! Nobody does cuttoff as good as Winky !!!! i need one of those cut off tools !
If you watch it on your phone its hard to find. winkysworkshop at GMX dot com
I really like your presentation style.
Thanks Kevin
Just watched your first south bend video. Nice haul. The tail stock looks just like mine. I had to make the ram for mine... it was missing. Mine's an 11 inch.
I've got to make myself something like that, parting off is still very much a lottery as to survival of the tool.
No amount of stiffening things up has done any good, tightening the gibs, adjusting the bearings, I even replaced the compound with a solid block.
Really strange that the second one of the earlier design didn't work, do you think there could be a difference in the material itself?
Obviously something it different between the first two but what I'm not sure. I I had to guess I'd say that the first was not ideal either. The pivot point (point of flex) on the second design is key I think. The tool moves back more as it deflect
Well, I like it whether I win or not. Thanks, Winky
Thanks rex!
Did the second tool of the first style fail because of vibration due to pieces being bolted and not welded? To me, even with an interference fit there would be movement to cause chatter.
This could be the case although it was a very tight fit. I suspect the previous design was on the edge of usable even on the first one I made. This new design moved the pivot point toward the cut. This makes the tool move back more when it tries to grab. It seems to be VERY forgiving. Speed and feeds have very little effect.
Well I made the original cross slide rigid mounted one and it still works fine but will have to have a crack at this one too as it looks easier to set up. Might try something different by using 14mm x 2mm blades
Are you talking about the direct mount? My lathe did very well with this one. I did get some chatter but it was easy to work around.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, that's the one. I actually made 2 for different size blades and only crashed 1 on auto feed (not tight enough)
@@allanb1778 Yeah... the quick change is nice.
i found i could weld HSS steel tooling to make a cutting tools for the lath for parting off facing tooling
I'll bet that would work well as long as you were not welding super close to the cutting edge.
Mark. My Logan was noisy with no broken or worn gears. I use 90wt oil to lube all my gears.
I'm using 130 wt. I made a gear and didn't get it right. Actually I made it 3 times!!! I think I have some bad info on the gears. I have a gear ordered. The only reason I made one was that 16 DP with a 14.5 PA are not made 5/8" wide. I ordered a 1/2" wide. But thanks anyway. Hopefully it will work... if not I know I'm working with a different PA. The DP is easy to figure.
I like it very much ,plus the other videos you put out . I llve in uk so no draw for me .. But would appreciate the plans on a
Email . I have a small shop and enjoy making parts in steel plus making things in wood furniture etc . Looking to the plans
All though i live in uk ., thanks for all your videos have great pleasure watching them and learning from them ..
All the best .Geo.
There is a link in the description below the video.
I intended to build your original design from January but procrastination paid off as I like this design better. I made it last week and it works great. Thank you for supplying the drawings. I would suggest you make a note on the piece that bolts to the top of the AXA holder though. I have holders from 3 different manufacturers and the spacing between the 2 holes is different on all of them, one was even .830" but I used one that was .880". So in order to ensure a tight fit folks should measure the AXA holder they are going to use before making this part.
I increased the chamfer to get more weld penetration and also continued the weld around the front down to the start of the slot opening to give more stability in the Y axis. I didn't have a good way to make the bandsaw cuts so I used a 1/8" end mill for the slot. This probably works better for your revision of adding a screw to limit movement.
Enjoy your videos; keep up the good work.
Yeah, an 1/8" slot is fine. The the extra weld work okay? It seems like the extra weld would stop it from flexing but the amount of flex needed is difficult to determine anyway. Maybe less flex is better.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, the extra weld works fine. Since the upper portion is welded this small area where I also welded has no affect on limiting any flex since that all takes place on the portion below the slot. I also didn't mention that, since I am fortunate enough to have a small surface grinder, I ground those 2 main parts not only to have a smooth surface where they rub together when flexing but also to have more precise thickness which I think would help the blade keep it's perpendicularity while in use. Of course, careful face milling would work also.
One of the things I think a lot of us old hobby guys complain about is having to adjust the height of the blade holder every time you have to change the stick out length. This is the case with the cut off blade holder that came with my AXA set and also with this design. But because of how this design works I wonder if the blade could be parallel to the bed. Unless you know of a reason why it wouldn't work or have already tried it I'm thinking about making one myself and trying it.
Thanks again for resurrecting and old design, adapting it to our modern tool holders and sharing it.
@@johnziebron4058 Unless you grind a back relief the blade would act like a scraper if it was level. However, I also made a direct mount cut off blade holder that works perfectly with a level blade. It might also work well with this design... Try it and let me know. The direct mount is very solid but I like the quick change for speed. czcams.com/video/B6NMY73eOxU/video.html
@@WinkysWorkshop I watched all your videos on the subject of cutoff tooling. I realize the significance of having a solid mount and I like this design with the flex slot. I made this holder based on your drawings (I have the same cut off blade except mine are 1/2" tall) and it worked well but I just don't like having the blade on an angle because every time you need to change the stick out length you have to adjust the height of the holder.
So I decided to make a new blade holder based on this same basic design but welding part B with no angle so the blade slot is parallel to the top of the cross slide. I did make a couple of changes though. Part A is the same size except that I use the holes at each end of the AXA holder instead of just the the back 2 holes. For part B I used 2" wide stock (milled to 1 7/8) so I could put 2 blade hold downs. The 1/2" hole is in the same location so my slot ends up being longer. A generous chamfer allows for a penetrating weld between parts A and B after which I milled this top surface flush. I also welded the right side of part B down to the slot opening. I do not require part C for height adjustment. Instead I opted to use a "shim" under the AXA holder for making a more solid mounting. You want the tip of the blade to be around the center of the spindle and in order to zero in on the shim thickness I used drills initially. My final shim ended up being .345". (Final shim thickness can also be varied by changing the blade position on part B).
I was able to do a lot of testing today. Since I already had my collet chuck on I used some 3/4" stock first and had great results after playing with spindle and cross slide speeds. My final test results were with my 6" 3 jaw chuck (similar to yours with the hang out) and using 1 7/8" diameter stock which put my 11 inch Logan almost at the limits of cross slide retracted and enough blade stick out to reach the center. When I switched to the 3 jaw chuck I turned my compound to be in line with the cross slide for better support. I had to put my lathe in back gears for this size stock but it worked great.
My back gear speed was 120 RPMs and I had my compound speed at 2 1/2 thousands per revolution. I put an indicator on back end of the blade and zeroed it. After the blade started the cut the indicator was moving slightly between 6 and 7 thousands. There was no chatter even when starting the cut. The cut took almost 5 minutes but I'm just a hobbyist, not production work. I could probably move my belt to a different pulley ration to get a faster back gear speed and it should still work fine. The previous testing I did with slight changes in height ended up with my final shim putting the tip of the blade exactly at the center of spindle. I made several cuts on this larger stock and all ended up with no nib on the piece in the chuck. In fact, you can't tell the difference if a facing tool was used or not.
I'm so glad this holder experiment was not a waste of time and I wish I could include some pictures and even a video here to prove it. So maybe you could end up doing another video for other "lazy" machinists who don't like to have to mess with changing cut off blade height.
I don't have welding machine but I would like to try making it using good bolt screws and hope it will work.
I think that could work
I like it good job
Thanks, it seems to work well.
Love the idea but too big for my 7x16. Do you have plans for the OXA tool holder for the mini lathe?
Sorry no. You might try down sizing the holder. They also make smaller blades the same as the one I used that work great. They just don't go very deep. Maybe 1 inch max.
Nice tool, I sprayed motorcycle chain lube on my lathe gears, quietened things down a heap, and after letting it dry hardly had any fling off
Thanks for sharing. I've been using 130 WT oil. The primary problem is a bad gear I tried to make. I have one ordered, hopefully its a good match.
I'll second that. I've used chain lube too on my change gears instead of grease. I found the sticky foaming lube works best. So quiet and no mess.
@@JimsShed I tried chain lube but I'll have to admit that I may have had the wrong type. It wasn't as thick as the stuff I used to get. What brand do you use?
@@WinkysWorkshop I used Belray , it was their early no fling version, I'm sure the new ones like their Blue Tac are even better
@@WinkysWorkshop The product I use is GRO Chain Lube (200ml). I'm in Australia so not sure what's available where you are. The BelRay products suggested by @PhatPizza are similar.
Very nice! What were the spindle speed and feed rates you were using?
You know I have never calculated them. I built the drive for the lathe and never did the math. I'm guessing a little fast but it works (maybe 700 RPM for 1-inch stock). I use back gear for 1.5" stock. I tried to figure the feed but the threading chart doesn't make sense to me. The chart is all TPI but above it there are words that say, "Longitudinal Feeds 2 1/3 Times Treads Per Inch" ? This doesn't make sense to me. 24 TPI=55 and 16 TPI=12. I'm using 24 or 48 but the feed rates don't jive. Any idea?
Have you considered making another of the "final" design without the 'flexture' and doing a 1:1 comparison?
Not really... I've tried it. I have thought about driving a screw driver in the spring slot so that it will not flex however.
No idea what sort of time and materials you have in this parting tool, but you might consider selling them. This is a giant improvement over what I'm used to with parting.
Thanks! Several have said the same. Maybe I need to look into this. I guess a couple hours work, $20 for the axa holder and maybe $12 bucks in materials not counting the blade. I'd to figure out a way to make it work with different tool posts.
@@WinkysWorkshop Like probably everyone else that watches your channel, I sent you an email. I have the same tool post as you do so this is going to slide right into place for me. I liked the original design with a bar. This makes the tool holder universal since every tool post can hold a bar. I think welding your new hinge section to a bar would work.
Just a thought but have you tried your new tool with a wedge in the saw cut to see if there is a difference between sprung and unsprung?
Haha... that's kind of scary but now that you brought it up I'm going to try it. In the past parting with a blade in the quick change was scary.
@@WinkysWorkshop many years ago I played with a threading tool of the same type as your parting one and put a screw in to be able to lock the gap, it worked better locked but then the springy bit might have been too springy. Perhaps it is time to try again?🤔
Mr. Winky,
Just wondering if the first version produced a better chip?
Thank you for your vids, they're well done and the subject matter is great.
I'd have to look at the videos but I believe the second was better but not extreme.
I'm making one of these myself.
I'm wondering how long the black tool holder you used for the dovetail is. The one I copied is 3" long.
My top part that bolts on will overhang the tool holder quite a bit. I'm wondering if I have to shorten it some.
I made your tap guide as well. that works great. thanks for sharing.
Mine overhangs about 1/2" but that's a very good point. with a little modification you could move it back. I also wonder it slightly less upward tilt might be better. My direct mount design worked very well and it was level.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks, I finely figured out what I was looking at in some of the video. by pausing. yeah, I haven't cut that slot for the tool as my new tool hasn't arrived yet.Ill consider 3 degrees. hopefully mine will work as good as yours.
@@wayneevans5050 I used mine today. The only problem I have had is that it chatter before it's under load. Once it's under load its smooth.
I would make a bar for the cutter from elastic steel, for example, from a truck spring.
That might be better but it doesn't need to flex much
@@WinkysWorkshop Ок.
If you still have the one that didn't work, and it was made from the same steel, I am wondering if the application of heat at the same point that the weld was on the first, might make the difference?
Interesting idea. I don't have it anymore.
@@WinkysWorkshop Did you use mild steel, or something a bit harder?
@@Fossilphill Yes mild steel
I like it😊😊😊
Ha... thanks
Moving the pivot point further forward in this design increases the force needed for a given deflection- in other words it is stiffer. This can be adjusted via the length of tool projecting from the holder (which this design will be more sensitive to). There may be an optimum value...
Yes, I agree 100%. So far 1 inch stick out works well (2 inch stock). The blade stick out has been set for 1.5" stock for a long time. Maybe I'll leave it set for 2" diameter now.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for doing all the work that lets the rest of us not have to. Guess I have to add making one of these to the list...
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Let me know how it works out. Maybe a stiffer spring would be better.
@@WinkysWorkshop Sounds like set for 2" stock is optimum for your design. I would call that pretty good- would cut any size I am likely to use...
You can't have both sides of the mounting bar bolted to the tool body. Remove the screws on the parting tool side of the fixture and try it again.
I thin you totally missed how this design works. Look at the plans I posted. The top bar is solid. The flexing takes place at the top of the vertical piece where the hole is drilled.
@@WinkysWorkshop Hi Mark, Scooter is referring to your first design and I believe you're referring to your second design.
Would this work with the carbide insert type cutoff blades?
I've destroyed so many of those things I've developed a complex about using the lathe to cut off discs of any type.
Same here. Have you bought expensive carbide ?
I wonder if the cheap Chinese ones I have bought are just that .. cheap rubbish.
@@stevewilliams2498
There were reps traveling between towns selling the stuff to workshops.
One of them split down the centerline, so I can say without a doubt, that's all you can get in Southern Africa, "Boss bought Chinesium".
Carbide isn't as sharp which is why I went back to the blade. However... this set up might works very well with a carbide tool. I may have to explore this! Thanks!
The carbide is dull in comparison to HSS but this might work well with carbide. Be sure you watch part one. czcams.com/video/du2eCZlOQXE/video.html
Great tool.
Thanks!
Hello.
Increase the section of the spring lug to 16+ mm. The cutter will work more stable.
You may be correct but I made a tool before this one that was thicker and it didn't work well. I also moved the point of flex toward the cutting point so I'm not sure which effected the performance.
Winky, I like the look of that unit and it is certainly less intrusive compared to the original Armstrong design but I am not sure that I can afford the reduced usable width with that attachment in place. I wish we could get affordable T profile cutoff blades here in Aus, the only place I can find is 50AUD plus shipping for a 4inch piece. Years ago I had a small piece that came with a cutoff tool holder from the UK but that has long gone to the graveyard of broken tools. Good on you for making the plans available, Is there such a thing as a postal VPN so I can pretend to be in the US?
Postal VPN... I love that! Hahaha - I just bought one for $16.
@@WinkysWorkshop perhaps you could order me a couple and forward using letter post (depending on postage I would obviously reimburse using paypay) as I am sure they wouldn't weigh that much.
@@michaellinahan7740 - Send me an email with the topic "BLADE". That way I can find it. I have 150+ emails so this will let me find your email.
I am very interested to hear why the second tool didn’t work like the first, so if you or your viewers figure it out I would love to hear about it. Jim
I like the new design better but I will admit that I'm baffled. I moved the point of flex forward on the new design. this makes the tool pull back more when deflected. Maybe the first one was very close to not working also...
Nice video
Thanks
Thanks for the free download.
No secret I have problems parting off.
I put it down to having old worn out machines.
I am going to try your design.
It doesn't make sense to me ?
Allowing the blade to deflect down means either it stays down, suggesting that the setup is too high in the 1st place, or that it springs back up so why doesn't that make it dig in deeper as it comes up ?
A mystery to be investigated.
Steve, if you haven't seen part one you need to watch it. I think it will clear things up. Thanks! czcams.com/video/du2eCZlOQXE/video.html
Great 💡💡💡 idea
Thanks!
I liked the first one. Have you made a drawing of it? Thanks
No I haven't made drawing because it didn't work as well and second one I made of the first type was terrible. I do see the advantage of the first type however. It can be put in any size tool holder. I thought about mounting the new design the same but it increases the amount of overhang... Utilizing the tool holder like I did moved the tool about 5/8" closer to the post.
Ok I need to try and figure out how to make one for the mini lathe without having a welder or mill. Hmm.
The weld could be bolted and fit the blade so it sits on pins.
Going to have to make one of these. I use BXA.
Question: Thought on the size of flexure cross sectional area.
Approach to sizing that amount of material. Looks like a perfect part to be reviewed with a stress-strain software program. The load for parting feed rate, stock material, etc. How much flex needed for deflection to get rid of chatter tied back to tool feed rate. An interesting problem to grind out the numbers on.
Interesting... There is a LOT going on with this tool and it's hard to know how everything interact. The point of flex in relation to the point of cut is huge. As you move the point closer to the point of cut (straight away from the operator) the more the tool retracts when deflected. I don't think it actually retracts when you factor in the feed but I do think it is compensating for flex in the compound and tool post. For this reason I think the ideal design may vary with the lathe it is used on. Hopefully not too much however.
@@WinkysWorkshop It's a complicated design digging down a few layers. Have to look into it closer. Might have to drop a question on Lipton. I'll wait till he's done with shop move and life is more stable for him.
Pondering if the flexure design would be upgrade for my CNC lathe. Don't have chatter issue, so if it's not broke, don't mess with it is thought.
I set it based on just feeds and speeds. I also have used the SFM mode for rpm before, didn't seem to matter. SFM mode is a nice feature for increasing insert life for other tools.
@@johnm840 From what Lipton said in his video I'd say his understanding is probably the same as mine but I could be wrong. I'm not sure I'd use the spring design if I wasn't having any problems. There are too drawbacks but one you got covered. The tool tends to dip under the stock at the end of the cut due to low RPM (SFPM). The other is a pattern on the stock on the end that is cut. It's basically flat but I assume they are due to a resonance change.
@@WinkysWorkshop Tom knows more than he said in video, and added time as well to learn more.
Being Engineer (EE) take limits and evaluate. IF flexure is 4X+ beefier, then no motion from tool force pushing down on it. Make it much smaller, then the tool force will bend the flexure to the limit where the slot is gone with contact to back side. Not much help there for determining sweet spot.
For a certain chip size, and rpm. What is down force on parting blade. That said need to write an equation with variables ( rpm, Depth of cut, diameter of stock, material, etc) A task unto itself. Next the flexture and motion of it based on the force load. sound be some info out there on this I would think. A common design with force gauges and other devices. Used to have access to an ME with stress-strain software on his computer. Was pretty interesting as he dinged around with bike frames for a fellow engineer in the group at that time.
He messed with that program for a good 6 months before it was useful. Not an option these days as we all work in different capacities.
Have to go old fashion way with a free body diagram and make assumption.
Or just make a part and test it with a known force and measure deflection. Repeat for a few parts to get a curve. I like option to think about it more.
@@johnm840 All interesting stuff but too time consuming for my life right now. The amount or flex away from the cut vs downward movement is simple math but the rest isn't so easy. I will say, the movement is very slight until you get very small (less that 1/32" in diameter). At this point the SFPM is not adequate and the tool tends to go under the stock. It breaks off but always leaves a numb.
Can you lathe take a 3/16" depth of cut without effort?
If it cant, then you can't use a 3/16" parting blade.
Pretty simple, parting tools should be about 80% of the max depth of cut your machine can handle.
After that, parting is just like turning, use a slightly reduced speed, but feed should be the same. People get in trouble when they try to cut too slow - cram the tool in there, if the machine stalls, get a thinner tool or a bigger machine.
I'm not sure I understand but the blade is 3/32". And yes that's about what the lathe can handle. I just made about 15 cuts at a verity of speeds and feeds cutting 1.5" bar. It will cut at 800 RPM but 180 was better. 800 was good for 1-inch but I still like the lower speeds... less oil slinging. Feed rates were .001 to .002 per rev.
"A grinder and paint make you the welder you ain't" - AvE
Ha... yes for sure
all l have is hf mini lathe, it would b scaled dwn.
I've seen them but never messed with one. It's hard to say how they would do. Might be worth a try
I like it
Cool
Another great video AND a puzzle tossed in. The first tool worked and the second one didn't. Why???? If you find the answer please let us know, sometimes you can learn a lot from a puzzle!
Yeah... I kind of freaked out then that happened. I suspect the first tool was close to not working well and a very slight difference pushed it over the edge. There is a lot of stuff going on with this spring idea. The location of the point of pivot, the strength of the spring, the weight. etc.. I think the biggest difference in the new design is where I moved the pivot point. By moving it toward the cutting point the tool moves back more when it is deflected.
Where did you get those little bottles with hypodermic needles?
Amazon I think
@@WinkysWorkshop thanks. Printing the print for the spring cut off tool.
@@steveo1006 Thats great.