WTF are Hardwax Oils?
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- čas přidán 26. 04. 2018
- Hardwax Oils seem to be all the rage right now, but what are they and why should you care?
In this video I'll be going over what hardwax oils are and aren't, as well as looking at how they (visually) compare to other finishes I had laying around.
If you're interested in how they compare price wise, checkout the google sheets document I prepared docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
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docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1q-1IYHbiCP9pFz-gxNSlQgwLly_C4ypQkJvlmWXzrGI/edit?usp=sharing
Price comparison on clear coat finishes, with some extra data along the way. Obviously this isn't exact pricing for everywhere in the world, just what I have available to me.
To the hobbyist, these sorts of videos are so informative, much better than CZcams maker after CZcams maker showing how to do something or make something which is virtually no different to what's been before. Many thanks
Thorough topic coverage, and well presented. Thanks for all the effort you put into this.
Glad I watched this before putting the finish on my new coffee table this weekend! Thanks Paul.
Very well done Paul, I think you have your style my friend. Very interesting subject well delivered and really making me think about a couple of projects I have coming up. Thanks mate.
This was a fantastic video. Thanks so much for your detailed overview.
Excellent! Watched a million on flooring coating and your fluent, concise and chuck full of information. What a refreshing breeze.😁
Really good explanation of the diffs; pros & cons, and application techniques. Thanks, very helpful
This is an amazingly well-done video. I got much more than I bargained for with the deceptively simple title. Thank you for the excellent information.
That was such an informative clip. Thanks- I feel much more confident with my choice of Fiddes hard wax for my new floor .
Thank you for making this vid. I'm an amateur woodworker and this vid answered all my questions that i had for my project. Greatly appreciated. 👍🙂
You're incredibly soft spoken and it's relaxing to hear you speak. It's like watching Bob Ross. It's absolutely awesome. Thank you greatly for your video. It was great. I just picked up a Jarrah table the other day for free and I'm gonna refinish it. There's not so much on the internet or CZcams about it. Thanks again you're awesome.
Great video, I learned a bunch. Thanks Paul!
Excellent information and explanation of hard wax oils looking forward to your next video.
Very helpful video and price comparison table. Thanks
Brilliant video. Loved the comparisons. Thanks very much.
Tried the Fiddes silk finish clear on a hardwood bench and I love it. I'm a convert.
It was a bit hard to get in Melbourne but worth seeking out.
Thanks for your help.
Appreciated your thoughtful, thorough and “balanced” evaluation/ comparison of these finishes. Your understanding and explanation of the trade off between cost, durability, appearance, feel, ease of application and repairability was helpful and helped me in my choice of finish for some Ikea karlby bench tops I am using in my son’s kitchen renovation.
One problem I was anticipating, is the complication of having jointed and glued 1.5 x 600mm wide benchtops to make a wider 900mm countertop. As careful I was in the jointing and clamping of countertop. It was still necessary to scrape and sand the joint, leaving a wide line of bare walnut along the join. (Ikea use a 4mm thick veneer on 32mm particleboard, for their Karlby worktops, which is something that appealed to me). The Ikea factory finish sands like a sanding sealer but the information I have found indicates that it’s a hard wax oil so I’m hoping another couple of coats of Fiddes matt clear hard wax oil will do the job.
The stockist for Fiddes here in Bendigo is New Life Furniture. (Beautiful tables and furniture in their showroom. - some finished with Fiddes Hardwax oil or Osmo Polyx oil at varying gloss levels ).
One of furniture makers there was telling me that they have most success when they finish the timber to 120# paper. This is counter-intuitive as previously I would always finish to 240#. He assured me that the oils seem to penetrate and soak into the timber much better with a slightly coarser finish.
Rambling on, but just trying to make the point that choice of finish requires some serious consideration and I have greatly appreciated your wisdom and experience. Cheers.
Brilliant, thank you! I've been searching for just this kind of information to determine the finish to use on my workbench, being a workbench there's no way I'd use poly. The bench is going to see it's fair share of hot suppers so any damages to the finish would be much easier to fix with the hardwax oil. I was going to go with a tung or dutch oil finish, but in seeing the difference in finish quality I'm going to take the plunge and give the ol' hardwax oil a whirl.
Very informative Paul😊thank you .
Thank you! I’m going to use Fiddes satin on an 8-string ebonized ash guitar. Your vid sealed the deal.
Great video mate. You answered a lot of my questions, Cheers !
Great tutorial! I've used Danish oil and been happy with the finish. The durability is another story. It does take forever to cure, and is particularly weak around the sink area in the kitchen. It is also not so clever when it comes to covering watermarks from cups and the like.
Where it will not be exposed to moisture or high traffic, it is just fine - apart from the long cure times - but for kitchen worktops, I think I'll be giving the hard wax finish a go. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Excellent informative review, many thanks.
thanks for sharing all this precious information
8:14 I love that look, of Tung, in,I’ve how it gets a little darker and it makes the grain more reflective.
Thank you. Damnit finally real answers. Thank you.
Great video again paul, looking forward to the next part! Also glad you explained shatoyance? chatoyance? shertoyance?.... the 3d effect this time :-P
Thank you, Paul, for a good summary of finishes especially what is available here in Australia. Do you have any tips on using the Fiddes tinted version? I want match some dark stained, satin finish lacquered furniture with A Tassie Oak console table I am making. Thanks for an interesting channel for a new woodworker, cheers.
Extraordinarily useful, thank you
Super helpful! Thank you!
My problem is that I have a house (not previously lived in) that has a varnished toilet, possibly oiled bathroom floor (as matte) and a hallway with no finish but original boards. I have no idea what was used on the bathroom floor (which I love the look of)...
Great video, cheers mate!
A very excellent and informative vid - thanks
Thanks, great review.
one thing I'd like to have seen covered is how far the finish can go and also the cleanup needed. The biggest downfall of oil based varnishes is the clean up with paint thinner and having to be careful about combustion etc.
Thanks for a great turtorial! Do you know if its possible to go cover up a dark shade of hwo with a brighter one? Guess one would have to sand it quite abit first.
Thanks for this, I've just cleaned up a nest of oak tables but was getting water marks from glasses put on them. Just checked the wax used that came with our oak table and can see it is labeled as wax polish. Assume that there is a world of difference between polish and hard wax, so will look at some clear hard wax to use.
Very useful. Excellent vid. 👍
excellent video - extremely informative
Great vid. Thanks so much. Just wondering what type of wood you were testing the finishes on...?
wow excellent work, thanks!
Thanks, very useful info, subscribed
Super quick comparison of different finishes. I have to admit that I have not tries any of the hard wax finishes. In fact I mostly spray lacquer. After your comparison and some recommendations I’ve seen from others I think I’ll try a hard wax finish and see what they are all about. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and opinions.
I think ultimately lacquers are going to be harder wearing - they're just out of reach for many - equipment and space/ventilation being the primary issue. In Australia, it can be pretty tricky even finding somewhere that sells lacquer in less than industrial volumes, so my experience with it is zero! :(
Great video, what a shame that I didn't find it until I searched specifically in youtube!
Just did first coat of Fiddes HWO and as I brushed on & had watched that wiping back was the go it has left the finish streaky, not smooth.. Im guessing with a light sand this will help the second coat. fingers crossed.
Really helpful, thanks.
Superb video. Thanks
I've done a few projects now with osmo. Super impressed with the finish! My last one was an old English oak dinning table refurb. I sanded it back with 80 and went up to to 240. Applied osmo with a brush, hand sand back with 320, repeated this. And for the last coat I cut back with 0000 wire wool and then applied a super thin layer with a pint free cloth. Now that came up super smooth. Very impressed with this product!
That's a lint free cloth, I hate auto text!😉
Not a good idea to use wire wool on oak (or any tannin rich wood) - minute bits can get stuck in the grain and go blue/black.
Great video, can it go on top of sanding sealer and stain.?
Great video!
Hello! Love your calm manner. I am making a pine herring bone design kitchen Benchtop. I am a bit concerned about how to waterproof enough so that around a sink area it doesn’t get ruined with water damage. Will wax oil do the job well enough or should I just have a composite stone or part around the sink? Also because I have a crazy amount of joins due to the herringbone, will the wax oil keep those from getting water damage with cleaning the bench or if someone spills something? Would love to video call and show you them! Dechen
Great comparison there Paul so thanks. I seem to have been doing tables of late and have liked the Intergrain Ultraclear (WB poly) but it makes FW look cheap - you only get what you pay for with the components in the resins though. I have and do use PolyX but more on furniture - tables are more demanding in terms of water/food/stain resistance. The one thing that surprised me a little with PolyX was the time to off-gas the volatile components. The MSDS lists 30% to 60% volatile solvents and it seems to take a week to lose the solvent odour but it's still a great finish. Cheers
PolyX takes about 10-14 days to fully... I don't know, crosslink? cure? I'm not sure what the correct term is. After about 6-7 days, it feels different from when its first dried, and after the full "cure" time, its at full protection and repels water.
Fiddes is about 7 days for full cure.
Any idea why Intergrain is so pricey? I only know them from decking stuff, didn't realise they had interior suitable finishes.
I don't know specifically what they put into their resin mix but there is a great variation in prices between different components that make up the resins in coatings. Some car finishes cost over $200 per litre while others can be less than a tenth of that. For my usage, the Intergrain is great - doesn't seem to raise the grain noticably, doesn't run easily, sprays well out of the can (1.8mm tip) and looks great on the parts - downside - cost. YMMV.
Got my Fiddes with the stop loss bags a few months ago... but still need to use up my old Danish Oils before giving it a burl. Danish followed by Bees Wax has been my standard for a few years.
Very nice introduction! Does anyone know if using hard wax oils on teak furniture gives a good result?
Hi I'm reading conflicting advice about sanding preparation for Osmo PolyX. Looking to use it on a wall unit made from a combination of blackwood veneer and hardwood. Having already sanded to 240, will it absorb the osmo well enough do you think?
Cheers
So we'll done!
which one is good to apply to the shaft of a snooker cue to get that glossy effect?
G'day Paul, Informative & great vid as usual. Do you know if you can apply HWO over Feast&Watson Prooftint stain without it screwing up?.
That will vary between different HWOs. I'd say Fiddes HWO and PolyX will probably be OK, but Livos Kunos will not. I'd recommend doing a sample test first, as its not a generally recommended combo!
Good one!
Can you apply a hardwax oil in stages? Say, do half the floor then do the other at a later date?
Thanks for your info 👍👍👍
What about tung oil, linseed oil and bees wax? Howard's bees wax?
What do you use to clean wood with? Orange oil?
Wondering what your thoughts are of using a hard wax like
Uno coat to put on kitchen cabinets
Looking for something different now that I sanded all
My
Oak cAbinets down
One coat using hard wax
Verse
Water poop
Stain
And 2
Coats of finish
Thoughts
Thank you
Hi there, is Osmo Polyx oil wax based high solid (3032) good and enough by itself to finish a red gum slab table? Thank you.
hi..I got to use osmowax after watching your video.Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
Can it be used on veneered mdf like mahogany or oak. .?
Anyone have any updates on how their hard wax holds up on floors? I want to do my hallway but I’m unsure if the durability is there 😥
Help a looooot. Love it thks!
Thank you
What sheen do you prefer with these hard wax oils? Thanks for the great video!
Generally speaking my wife and I both prefer satin/semigloss finishes on everything. Small objects (typically lathe projects like pens) we don't mind gloss on, but generally just satin :)
So what actually makes these hardwax oils harder than your standard beeswax/carnauba wax blends mixed with a tung or linseed oil? What are they putting in them to make a oil/wax hard? I’ve been trying to decide between something like tried and true varnish oil (a natural Lindseed/pine resin mix) and hardwax oil. I was also thinking about polymerized (heated) tung oil because you can get a decent sheen with it and it has better water resistance than shellac. Anyways I’m not looking for the best durability per se, but better repair ability than a poly. Have always been curious about these hardwax oils.
Thanks Paul this is a great resource. What category would Organoil hard burnishing oil fit into?
I cringe when I see high end custom furniture coated in water based poly.
I keep water based poly for customers who are rude or pay slowly. They deserve it...
I think there are *some* water based polys that have pretty good clarity... but polycrylic isn't one. At least it was super cheap so its good for sealing shop furniture :)
My understanding with the Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil is its basically just tung oil with something added so that burnishing/friction set off the tung oil in minutes instead of weeks. I have no direct experience with that product. *Most* of Organoils products are tung oil based, so their durability always is a question for me. Their danish oil didn't go well on the blackwood, but on vic ash brings out the pink hues really nicely.
New sub here 🤗Thank you for the info! QUESTION: Would you use a wax on top of polycrylic for added protection? My kitchen countertops are wood with polycrylic but I need to somehow further protect them from water, cooking oil spatter, wine etc. I like a matte or satin finish but am lost as to what to use for both aesthetics and durability. Sadly polycrylic isn’t what I would have used after watching your videos but it’s what was already there from builder. I appreciate any advice you can give! 😌☮️
Regular furniture wax? It won't add much to protection for water or for heat - you're likely to end up with white rings everywhere.
You won't be able to use hardwax oil without stripping back the finish.
Polycrylic should be able to protect the wood pretty well, it'll hold up to water just fine though I've not tested it on heat. Minwax might be able to provide you with better information on what to coat it in for more protection
Good review Paul
I've used hardwax oil for a number of years and currently have OSMO on our hardwood kitchen table and on tassie oak floorboards throughout the house. I love it!
The OSMO products are fantastic and Paul is right when he places them somewhere between poly and oil for finish and durability.
Despite the cost, coverage is pretty good, it goes on easy and smells nice.
The main reason I chose it was to get something durable, repairable AND you could still feel the wood. I hate the plastic look/feel of poly and the hardwax floor feels great in bare feet.
My only complaint was that I once used Volvox (hippy brand) hardwax oil on a benchtop and if you put a wet can on it, the metal would instantly react and oxidise a black ring into the timber. It was horrible! - OSMO does not do this
I've never heard of Volvox, so I started looking into it - "VOLVOX Hard Oil Wax Finish will not charge electro static energy. " you weren't kidding about being a hippy finish! Really weird it reacted like that, you'd think that'd be one of the things *any* finish would be able to handle
Paul Jenkins I was not sure how or why it reacted, but I drove me crazy.
The local shop that sells it also sells all sorts of other natural finishes that would be fun to explore. The shop is all about no VOCs and natural ingredients for healthy homes etc, but the funny bit in that the bloke in the shop reeks of cigarette smoke!
Not a good look
Excellent video! And what is your favorite oil based poly if you had to choose?
Thats a tricky one to answer! In Australia, we don't have too many options that are readily available - Cabots Cabothane, Feast Watsons "Clear Varnish", Bondall Monocel.... and thats about it. Minwax beat them all (IMO), but probably Bondall Monocel. It has a weird "brushability", can only thin it up to about 10% before it goes a bit weird.
Paul Jenkins Thanks Paul, I think I really want to try the wax/oil finish.
Thanks for the vid. Hope you're still reading comments. I read in one of your replies that you don't think much of the Interbuild brand of HWO. Can you tell us why, and if there's a way to get a better finish? The reason I ask is because I just picked up several boxes from Bunnings as they were selling for $2 a can.
I'm yet to see any examples of interbuild that are standout - nearly all examples I've seen are with the tint - and I believe the $/m^2 was really poor before Bunnings started clearing it out. That's fine if you can get enough cans for $2, but they've been gone from stores around me for 12 months.
Instructions conflict with what interbuild have online and on the can, so it's a bit of guess work trying to figure out how it works.
For $2, if you can get clear, I'd certainly give it a shot.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I have put about four coats of spar urethane over monkey pod slab that will be a table top. I was wondering if I could apply a wax over top as the final coat to give it a super smooth finish to the touch. I am going for a satiny finish. Thanks so much
You wouldn't apply hardwax oil over other finishes, it needs raw wood.
Traditional wax...maybe, but it'll wear poorly and need reapplication frequently
Paul Jenkins thank you very much for the response. Much appreciated
Hey mate, great video .
Would you use the hard wax oils on an external door?
I’ve made two front doors from recycled hardwood, I think it’s just old rafters and joists ( gray faced thins from ironwood) I believe the timber has quite a few different contaminates in the the surface.
I’ve brushed intergrain ultra clear on to one door , and had a few reactions or discolouration only in two small areas ( but it seems to be getting better as it drys)
Maybe the hard wax oils are less reactive?
Apologies for the question and thanks for the the great video
The stuff I use is only rated for interior use, but several brands also have exterior rated stuff.
AFAIK, they are pigmented to some degree, rather than purely clear coated. I've never used any of them though, sorry!
@@TheWoodKnight
Ok I’ll look into it, thanks for the reply. There’s always something to learn. All the best 👍
Is hard wax oil more expensive as Tung oil?
Paul, thank you! Question... can I stain the wood for color and then apply the final finish (hardwax or shellac, etc)?? Is that proper procedure? I very much appreciate your time!!
For the most part, yes. Do a test first - some HWOs really want 'raw' or a fully compatible stain first. Usually 24-48hr for the stain/dye to fully cure is all thats needed though
@@TheWoodKnight You're a good soul! Tks much!!
Is hardwax oil like Osmo biodegradable?
Love the led Zeppelin opening chords
Hi Paul, If I wanted to make Tassie Oak the same colour as Jarrah, what tint/stain would be best suited to use with the hard wax oils?, I've done some experimentation using the Feast&Watson stuff and quite frankly I don't like it.
I can't really help - I've not tried to make anything look like Jarrah before. Most of the HWO companies will have their own tints and colours that are compatible with their own finishes - I've got no idea if mixing a stain from OSMO would work with Fiddes. OSMO, Fiddes, Livos and Evolution all have Australian distribution, so I'd recommend asking each of them what they recommend.
*Usually* they'll have a stain (using Livos as an example, Kaldet is their stain line) and a "tinted" version of their clear finish (again, Livos as the example, they have tinted Kunos). *In general*, getting the stain then clear coating will give a better result than the tinted versions because you can more precision control the colour
Mate, thanks for the content, question time...could you use the Polyx on an external solid blackbutt door that is south facing and mostly (90%) out of the sun and rain. . . Would only get wet in crazy sideways rain.
Looking to keep the light nordic look of the blackbutt as much as possible but still protect it from the elements .... and children's sticky dirty fingers.
UV is going to be the main killer, so it'd probably be fine but I can't guarentee it. I've only ever done one outdoor project, and that wasn't finished with a hardwax finish. OSMO have a line of outdoor finishes, but they tend to be higher pigmented for UV protection.
What would you recommend for restoring vintage wood veneer HiFi speaker cabinets - something like Fiddes Hardwax Oil, Rustins Danish Oil or something totally different? I see you have a nice set of Yahama speakers in your TV Unit video. Thanks!
Because speakers don't really get a lot of "traffic", pretty much *anything* will do the job and hold up pretty well. If you were trying to "faithfully restore" using as close to original materials/finishes, its probably going to be shellac or lacquer
*Personally*, I'd go for hardwax oil as I do like the look and feel, and I find Rustins Danish Oil darkens up a fair bit over time, even just a little bit of finger oil will set that particular spot 'off' and over 2-3 years will be darker than the rest.
I don't know if there are any finishes that do or don't effect acoustics though.
@@TheWoodKnight Thanks for the quick reply! I had a guess that Hardwax oil might be a good choice as bringing out the look and feel of a nice set of old speakers would just be as important as their sound! Will have to experiment on a basic set first. I would say the cabinet acoustics would generally be dictated by the main cabinet construction and internal dampening rather than the external finish. Cheers.
Thanks for the great video!! very good information!
However, Jord @ Periodic Furniture Studio in Perth have recently tried the Rubio MonoCoat finish that only needs one coat on all finishes. Do you have any experience in that? if so how does that compare to the other finishes? Thanks!! :)
There are a bunch I haven't tried - Odies, Livos, Whittlewax and Rubio are the primary ones. "Worst case" area/L (30m^2/L) with Rubio monocoat puts it at *three times* as expensive as Fiddes. 350mL of it comes in at a whopping $99+P&H. There have also been some really... mixed results from it I've seen on Instagram. Checkout Brian's tests of it on instagram instagram.com/p/BhiAbXHlKVq/
Basically I'm not willing to spend so much to try out a finish thats *so* much more expensive than the competition.
Thanks for the quick reply Paul! The only reason I asked was because for a person like me that don't like the wait time, re-sanding, coating process, the Monocoat seems like a very convenient product if the quality holds up to their price. Looks like Brian isn't very happy with that, I'll wait and see how that works out with Jord :)
Just went on and check Odies website and realized that they are single coat as well
Most (all?) HWOs don't need sanding in between, so even the multi-coat-needed ones save at least one step! :)
This video is helpful but there are no other small shop operators around here and no suppliers of any of the hardwax oils. There's little aside from advertising blather to go on. After dozens of CZcams videos I'm left not knowing which products are most durable against UV radiation, airborne grease, and solvent (water, soapy water, and alcohol) degradation. I'd sure appreciate input from you and your viewers. Thank you.
have y done kitchen cabinets with the hard wax oils and had the opportunity to visit them after a few years of use??
Kitchens present the problem of Lipids ( fats from cooking) spattering and floating on the air. They bond to a water based finish and become impossible to get off without damaging the underlying finish and remain as tacky little lumps.
A proper polyurethane has become pretty much impossible to come by over the last couple of decades.
I just finished a table with 3 coats of tungseed oil finish varnish. Can I still apply a hardwax oil on top of this?
No, it's meant to be applied to raw wood. You may have adhesion and curing issues
I sort of WTF with finishes because most reviews & hardware stores lead down a path of no return on where to go, trial & friggin error 🤬🤬😱😱🔨👍
So i have to refinish all my floors..they are all connected room to room...i cannot move out or completely empty my house ..im wondering if using wax will prevent any type of demarcation in between rooms as i have to do them at different times..would love your opinion
I've never finished any floors before, so take this with a grain of salt. If you already have a polyurethane-type coating, that will most likely need to be removed (sanded/chemical stripper) back to barewood for the hardwax oil to probably adhere, but yes, one of the major advantages/reasons to use HWOs is that once its time to refinish, you can do as much (or as little) area wise as you like at a time.
Check with the relevant manufacturers to see whether they need 100% raw wood or not. If you're in the southern hemisphere/in winter at the moment, something like Fiddes' is possibly the best option as it dries quickest in lower temperatures
Can you get a pretty high gloss with the hard wax?
I haven't tried taking a matte/satin version to high gloss, but most brands do have a high gloss version which gets plenty glossy! I'm not sure it'll ever achieve glass-glossy finishes of epoxy/polyurthane/lacquers that have had the finished 'rubbed out', but they're still very distinctly glossy
I’m hearing the hard oils are a nightmare! Showing all traffic marks and a pain to keep clean
My experience has been the opposite of that for furniture.
Hey man did you try Rubio Monocoat linseed oil? Tell me your experience...
Unfortunately not, the buy in cost is too high for me to justify currently
Can you put polyurethane coats over a hardwax oil stain?
No
I’m using Osmo hard wax oil on a table and it says it dries in 24hours and cures in 10 days. What’s the wait time before using the table once dry? Surely not 10days? Only info I have found is for floors, and it says light use is ok... thanks, Cody
10 days. Sometimes a little quicker. There is a turning point when it *feels* different (softer/nicer), and thats when its good to go as its then pretty much water repellent.
Some polyurethanes or danish oils really shouldn't be in the house until 2 weeks until after the finish has offgassed too.
I have an oak table without a protective layer and i am thinking of applying hard wax oil on it .. do you advise me to do so and how many layers do you think will work best ?do you think a brush will work fine ? Thank you in advance and keep up the good work on CZcams,, i immediately subscribed!
Depends on what product you use. Most are two coats max, a few will tolerate three coats. Brushing will work, but most manufacturers recommend rolling or wiping on with a rag.
@@TheWoodKnight and should i re-apply it every couple of years or so or is it permanent???
@@abedri1476 No finishes are permanent - they'll eventually wear down, but how quickly depends on how heavy traffic they get. Should get 10 years or so I believe.
@@TheWoodKnight i have done the first layer and it looks amazing already ! Thank you for the tips and for sharing with us your knowledge! Have a nice day
@@TheWoodKnight a last question ..does hardwax oil protect the table from hot liquids ??
I wish more people would test out Vesting's LED hardwax oil.
In Australia, the curing LED thing is about $4000 for the big one, and $1000 for the small one.
I'll test it if you provide the equipment!
@@TheWoodKnight From what I've seen and read, sunlight does the same thing as the UV light. So if you bring the workpiece out into direct sunlight, it'll cure just as quickly as the device does. But yes the device is quite expensive. I got mine for 750 USD.
Even then, the LED curing hardwax oil STILL cures without an LED light, it would cure in about as much time as any other hardwax oil, such as rubio monocoat. So really the UV device is only necessary for instant indoors curing.
@@cedarandsound also $242/litre is 2.5x the cost of the competition!
@@TheWoodKnight Yeah it is insanely pricey but the quality of the finish and speed of use is worth it in my opinion.
Finally found a channel with real woodworking and with a brain. Had to be an Aussie as all us woodworkers use birch ply and only make shop furniture. PTFL for the Aussies
I genuinely don't know what PTFL is and the results that came up were "Posterior Talofibular Ligament" and "Prime Time Football League" and now I'm so very very confused, hahaha
PTFL is Praise the f****ng lord Paul :-) I'm so sick of watching birch plywood mitre stations or router tables blah blah blah. I love the fact there's a makers movement. We need people to make good quality lasting furniture or were simply going to run out of trees and kill the planet. Also I'm fed up of watching you tube woodworkers who's sole aim is to make top notch workshop furniture using the best tools and expect Joe public to pay for it through patron. Its the new form of begging IMO. I'm new to your channel Paul but so far so good mate.
@Glenn Philipson This is going to come off as really ranty/angry but I don't meant it that way - I'm not angry, it's just the end of the day and I'm tired/sore/etc :)
I'm going to strongly disagree about Patreon being "the new form of begging". Whether its entertainment, education, or somewhere in between, videos are expensive to produce - be it time, materials, equipment or a combination of all of them. And this isn't just on youtube, in all forms of video. This video, for example, as a "very quick" 8 hour or so job spread over a few days of recording, applying finishes, research, editing, etc. On actual projects, recording it more or less doubles the time to build the project in the recording/editing/adjusting camera/etc. Often more than doubles.
Patreon is *entirely* optional (don't like it? ignore it! Most use it as a "Behind the scenes" rather than paywall type thing) but most videos will also encourage you to like/share/subscribe because "in general" people forget/don't think to do so. It's also easy to forget that the type of knowledge you can find in excruciating detail for free on youtube used to cost a mint in DVDs/VHS from woodworking magazine companies. Whether its sponsored advertising, patreon, or other "sell out" type things, I don't think there is a single "creator" who *wants* any of that...but nobody is going to be able to afford to produce more than one video a year otherwise - youtube ads don't pay out nearly as much as what people think.
@@TheWoodKnight Paul I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I don't see it as a rant but a debate about a subject and as long as it remains civilised then happy days. We are both adults with opinions.
Paul forgive my coming to a judgement on you but I don't believe you think your ever going to be a movie star so why do you make videos? You make them because it's a way of showcasing your talent with wood. Your trying to make a living. Making videos may cost a few quid to make but that's your choice and that of every other you tuber. Everyone knows how you tuber works with patreon likes subscribe etc we don't need it pushing down our throats every single time. If your channel and content is decent and makes people want to watch the business will take care of itself . If it's the same old crap churned out then it will fail as there is so much of it available to watch for free. Just because it's expensive to make videos does not justify the cost being covered by so so e else. To constantly ask for money under the guise of growth of the channel is garbage and begging. The bubble will burst and then it will be back to having to make a living and then it will see the real craftsmen/woodworkers who will survive. The wannabe movie stars will be back to minimum wage
Been using Fiddes wax oil for a long time now for all my timber projects. Easy application and a great finish. Can't beat it as far as I'm concerned. Pricey? Yes, but a little goes a long way. Polyurethane? No way, not on timber for goodness sake it's just not natural.