I'm really chuffed you made these videos. I have a Fostex R8 that needs alignment and, armed with the info in your tutorials, I'll be saving some money maintaining it myself. Thanks heaps.
Wow, so glad I came across this. I’ve just got a model 80 and ordered a calibration tape. Lots to do but this is such a good overview. I’m now not (too) scared to attempt demagnetising. Thanks 🙏🏻
Hi Dan Banker !! I am before the possibility of buying a Fostex A series Multitrack 8-track recorder or a Reevox A77 2-track recorder. I will consult your opinion if you have it, I know well that they are teams from very different times, I suppose that their technology and components also and of course in the eight I have more recording possibilities, in your opinion which of the two has better quality in component and audio. First of all, I would like to use the recorder to colorize digital recordings. Thank you in advance for your videos and for your time
Hey man I was wondering if you could help me with some channel issues on my R8? Channels 3 and 6 have no signal at all. The lights still work though so its fully just a connection issue I would assume. I wouldn't have thought the channel cards were fried as channels 3 and 6 are not correlated at all in terms of the link (i.e. how 1 and 2 equate to 5, and 6 and 3 and 4 equate to 7 and 8). Just my thoughts. Any advice or anything would be grand!
Hey Dan, I just bought the R8 and have hit some snags. I was hoping to buy a calibration tape and can't work out exactly which one I need. Which one are you using? Any UK suppliers of these?
Hi Dan-I bought an MRL test tape from the USA. Even with import charges (considerable), it was still cheaper than Canford Audio in the UK. It’s a NAB 15 ips tape with 1k, 10k, 16k and 100Hz tones on it.
Hi Dan, thanks for this, its SO helpful., and I've been searching a while now for R8 info. I can't find any such demagnetiser as yours, which seems ideal for the job, with it's narrow end. Do you know where I can find one?
Hi again Dan, when I run the calibration tape, it shows a lovely uniform 0db on the R8 meters but unlike your DAW's corresponding reading at -5db, mine shows -12 across the board. Why the discrepancy? And why is 0db on both our R8 meters, not 0db on our DAWs?
Watching again, you did say that the levels into the DAW are arbitrary, and also that different tapes might make a difference too. I'd certainly like a hotter playback than -12db so I'm re-tweaking.
Hi Paul - sorry for the massive delay in getting back to you - the levels coming off tape are at domestic level, ie on phono RCA jacks. The level also depends on the flux density of your test tape - it should say somewhere, something like 185 nWb/m. As long as it sounds ok, I'd say this is the best benchmark. It's all very tricky unless you have an audio level meter that actually measures audio level properly. I haven't got one, but you can tell by the position of the level pots on tape - if you're having to wind them right up, or turn down, that should ring alarm bells. It'll also appear wrong if you try to record and the record levels (both level and treble) don't give you the results you need. 0dB on Daws is also the absolute top end. When I worked for EMI, an engineer would request an operating level for the tape machines according to the music they were recording. I'd say that your levels of -12dB on your DAW are quite low - maybe turn them up to -6dB...
The 2 inch tape machines must be real easy to work on but 1/4'' is really trial and error getting the pre amps loud enough so you don't end up with 8 tracks of hiss
Hi, If I connect my computer to this foxtex and recored 1kh 10kh and 16kh on a blank reel, will that work to then use the recorded tape as a calibration tape?
What kind of tape do you use for your machine? I have the same fostex r8 but I'm not sure which kind of tape i should get, because I recognized there are some different types.
You’re meant to use 1 mil tape on this but it’s harder to get than 1.5 mil. The latter does have the potential to wear the heads faster but it works fine on my machine
You’d need a 15ips tape, and also a NAB type rather than DIN. 250 nWb is good though. You’ll need at least 1kHz, 10kHz, and 100 Hz. Some also carry a 16kHz tone for fine azimuth adjustments
Hello! I wanted to ask you a question, I have a phostex gs-24, the fact is that several of its PCBs give an error depending on the technician who takes it and passes the service manuals that they gave me with the machine, the technician tells me that the diagrams of the service manual are not the same as those of the cards of the machine, you know if there is any revision of the manual and if I had it and would send me a copy only of the diagram of those PCB input and output of the machine I will read I would be eternally grateful since he has been in the technician for almost 2 years, thank you very much and a very good channel !! (sorry for my english)
I have a question for you if you wouldn't mind. I just acquired one of these and am going through calibration/alignment. The first part of the electrical alignment is input level and meter calibration. It wants you to apply a -10dBV (0.316Vac) signal, and adjust the Rec Cal trim pot, then adjust the meters. I believe that is assuming you follow the Fostex spec of being aligned with a 320 nWB/m reference fluxivity test tape. However, suppose I am plan to use a 355 nWB/m reference fluxivity MRL tape instead. Doesn't that mean I should also change the input and meter calibration accordingly? Slightly confused. Thanks, great channel mate.
Hi there! No the meters are a separate calibration from the stronger flux tape. When you’ve done the meters, then adjust playback level and EQ with your test tape, then do the record side with a test tone from the desk or other source...
@@DanBakerMusic thanks, I am not too familiar with these machines. Looks like it is made to be recorded through the bus of a console unlike we use out from channels to DAW these days.
Tapes, machines, electronics etc. on old home recorders like this had a manufacturing tolerance of light bulbs! The pitch control was in the middle, but the speed of the motor can be tweaked in two places, the back of the motor and the control card. You're lucky if you see 1.00kHz out of a machine like this. I used to work for EMI in the 1990s, and I lined up Studer A800 24 track 2" machines - even they varied a bit, though excellent sounding decks. Level alignment on a Fostex R8 wavers about 1 - 2dB anyway, so if it's 1.5kHz or 800 Hz, you get the same result. I think people get hung up on this as we're now used to digital equipment that has a flat response from 20Hz to 20,000Hz, with only perhaps 0.5dB either way....
Hi Dan, I've got a R8 but the remote is missing. Is there a way I could check whether the machine works. I tried the buttons on the machine but the main tape motor doesn't turn. The pinch roller moves but thats about it. Also any idea how I could get a remote for the machine. Thanks
Hi there-it’s almost certainly the small plastic wheels on the underside of the reels that have parted company with the axles. The plastic wheels crack and then the metal axles turn within them. Your best bet is to glue them back on with araldite, but be careful that none of the glue goes down into the reel motors. Good luck! The remote is only there to display time and arm tracks: the machine will play back without it.
Hi Dan, thanks for your support. I've repaired the winding cogs and now playing a test tape or the first time since, looking at the levels on the playback meters. Your video unless I've missed something focussed on reading output into DAW and listening to tone from DAW. My R8 meter levels vary by 3db and sometimes intermittently. Should I be adjusting something before I even go to DAW, and if so, which pot?
Hi Paul-I used the meters on my DAW as they are far more sensitive and detailed: the R8 ones only give you rough levels. However the DAW meters do show up the age of the machine-don't worry about a dB or so wavering each way...
Thanks Dan, I have had a play with the sensitivity switch too which is certainly a different response, but I take your point and will go with the DAW for calibration.
There are drive belts as well as the plastic cogs that can fail. It sounds like the cogs may be developing cracks against the spindles of the motors. The drive belts have teeth so it’s unlikely to be those. If you take the front plate off the machine (Allen key bolts), you’ll see the plastic cogs: look out for hairline cracks. If there are any, you’ll need to drop a tiny bit of glue once you gently prise open the crack. Be careful with the amount of glue: none should go near the spindle, otherwise it’ll run down into the motor.
Thanks, for the tips. How do you lubricate the capstan on these machines? My R8 is going very slow in play mode after a long period of no using, and it´s definately has something with the capstan to do.
Hey Dan. I haven't been using a reel to reel machines for a while, just got my R8 as well. Still, need to fix a couple of things, but it's in good condition. Actually, it's the first time I saw someone says you should store tapes "tail out". Could you explain why it is better? Or send a link where I could read it? Or maybe this can be an idea for new video.
Hi there: storing tapes "tail out" means that you get pre-echo (where the layers of tape gradually magnetize each other), which is preferable to post-echo that would occur with "head out"..
Yes - quite so. Storing the tapes in either direction will end up being the same. It's the "print-through" that tapes have, and the more expensive ones quote dB figures for print-through.
Hi Daan. I got the tape from USA. Cost of customs clearance was almost the same as the tape! Ended up being £150. I have a stereo quarter inch as well, so it made sense for me to buy. Steer clear of second hand ones as they may have been damaged, not giving you accurate levels. Canford Audio also sell these tapes but we're more expensive than getting one from the USA. Mind you, the £ has plummeted against the $ since I bought the tape, so if you're in the UK, Canford Audio might be best!
Hello Dan, Thanks for the information. I'm in the Netherlands, so I guess I will buy the tape at that Canford shop (good tip :). Do you know if I should use IEC or NAB equalization or is this not important? Greetings Daan
Hey Dan have you thought of moving to LBRY it’s much better platform for interesting creators than Toutube with its ever encroaching right wing narrative and behavioural model.
Oh jesus I just went over to have a look at that thing, what a shit show. These things seem to be just ONLY the stuff youtube banned. Why the actual fuck would someone CHOSE to go there?
I'm really chuffed you made these videos. I have a Fostex R8 that needs alignment and, armed with the info in your tutorials, I'll be saving some money maintaining it myself. Thanks heaps.
Wow, so glad I came across this. I’ve just got a model 80 and ordered a calibration tape. Lots to do but this is such a good overview. I’m now not (too) scared to attempt demagnetising. Thanks 🙏🏻
I've got a Fostex E 16 stored away. Saving this video for when I need to set it up!
Nice! I used to use one of those. Great workhorses. I do miss those days...
thanks a lot ! nice to watch
Thank you. Have bought one of this one week ago . This is very good info!
Good show mann
Awesome studio setup!
Hi Dan Banker !! I am before the possibility of buying a Fostex A series Multitrack 8-track recorder or a Reevox A77 2-track recorder. I will consult your opinion if you have it, I know well that they are teams from very different times, I suppose that their technology and components also and of course in the eight I have more recording possibilities, in your opinion which of the two has better quality in component and audio. First of all, I would like to use the recorder to colorize digital recordings. Thank you in advance for your videos and for your time
Dan, I have a fostex R8 and it will not rewind. It plays and fast forwards correctly. Any ideas?
Hey man I was wondering if you could help me with some channel issues on my R8? Channels 3 and 6 have no signal at all. The lights still work though so its fully just a connection issue I would assume. I wouldn't have thought the channel cards were fried as channels 3 and 6 are not correlated at all in terms of the link (i.e. how 1 and 2 equate to 5, and 6 and 3 and 4 equate to 7 and 8). Just my thoughts. Any advice or anything would be grand!
Hey Dan, I just bought the R8 and have hit some snags. I was hoping to buy a calibration tape and can't work out exactly which one I need. Which one are you using? Any UK suppliers of these?
Hi Dan-I bought an MRL test tape from the USA. Even with import charges (considerable), it was still cheaper than Canford Audio in the UK. It’s a NAB 15 ips tape with 1k, 10k, 16k and 100Hz tones on it.
Hi Dan, thanks for this, its SO helpful., and I've been searching a while now for R8 info. I can't find any such demagnetiser as yours, which seems ideal for the job, with it's narrow end. Do you know where I can find one?
ebay mate.about 25pounds.
Yep, got one; job done.
Hi again Dan, when I run the calibration tape, it shows a lovely uniform 0db on the R8 meters but unlike your DAW's corresponding reading at -5db, mine shows -12 across the board. Why the discrepancy? And why is 0db on both our R8 meters, not 0db on our DAWs?
Watching again, you did say that the levels into the DAW are arbitrary, and also that different tapes might make a difference too. I'd certainly like a hotter playback than -12db so I'm re-tweaking.
Hi Paul - sorry for the massive delay in getting back to you - the levels coming off tape are at domestic level, ie on phono RCA jacks. The level also depends on the flux density of your test tape - it should say somewhere, something like 185 nWb/m. As long as it sounds ok, I'd say this is the best benchmark. It's all very tricky unless you have an audio level meter that actually measures audio level properly. I haven't got one, but you can tell by the position of the level pots on tape - if you're having to wind them right up, or turn down, that should ring alarm bells. It'll also appear wrong if you try to record and the record levels (both level and treble) don't give you the results you need.
0dB on Daws is also the absolute top end.
When I worked for EMI, an engineer would request an operating level for the tape machines according to the music they were recording.
I'd say that your levels of -12dB on your DAW are quite low - maybe turn them up to -6dB...
Cool video Dan, thanks. Did you get the 320 or the 250 ref flux tape?
My tape is a 250...
The 2 inch tape machines must be real easy to work on but 1/4'' is really trial and error getting the pre amps loud enough so you don't end up with 8 tracks of hiss
Totally. It’s a bit of a lottery. I sold the machine and the guy who bought it did comment that it sounded good!
Hi, If I connect my computer to this foxtex and recored 1kh 10kh and 16kh on a blank reel, will that work to then use the recorded tape as a calibration tape?
This only works if you’ve lined up the playback side first with a calibration tape...
What kind of tape do you use for your machine? I have the same fostex r8 but I'm not sure which kind of tape i should get, because I recognized there are some different types.
You’re meant to use 1 mil tape on this but it’s harder to get than 1.5 mil. The latter does have the potential to wear the heads faster but it works fine on my machine
@@DanBakerMusic So a "Calibration Level Tape, ¼” 7.5 ips (19,05 cm/s) 1 kHz 250 nWb/m DIN, 6 Min." would be ok for the job?
You’d need a 15ips tape, and also a NAB type rather than DIN. 250 nWb is good though. You’ll need at least 1kHz, 10kHz, and 100 Hz. Some also carry a 16kHz tone for fine azimuth adjustments
Hello!
I wanted to ask you a question, I have a phostex gs-24, the fact is that several of its PCBs give an error depending on the technician who takes it and passes the service manuals that they gave me with the machine, the technician tells me that the diagrams of the service manual are not the same as those of the cards of the machine, you know if there is any revision of the manual and if I had it and would send me a copy only of the diagram of those PCB input and output of the machine I will read I would be eternally grateful since he has been in the technician for almost 2 years, thank you very much and a very good channel !! (sorry for my english)
I have a question for you if you wouldn't mind. I just acquired one of these and am going through calibration/alignment. The first part of the electrical alignment is input level and meter calibration. It wants you to apply a -10dBV (0.316Vac) signal, and adjust the Rec Cal trim pot, then adjust the meters.
I believe that is assuming you follow the Fostex spec of being aligned with a 320 nWB/m reference fluxivity test tape. However, suppose I am plan to use a 355 nWB/m reference fluxivity MRL tape instead. Doesn't that mean I should also change the input and meter calibration accordingly? Slightly confused.
Thanks, great channel mate.
Hi there! No the meters are a separate calibration from the stronger flux tape. When you’ve done the meters, then adjust playback level and EQ with your test tape, then do the record side with a test tone from the desk or other source...
@@DanBakerMusic Right on, I was overthinking it. Makes perfect sense. Thank you!
Mine has started to play fine for a few minutes then begins to slow down. Looking for a solution.
It’s mostly plastic parts unfortunately. It could be all manner of things, from a misaligned transport to a lazy motor to a worn drive belt...
Probably a stupid question, can this 8 track machine record in 2 or 4 track in 7.5 ips to be able to playback at consumer r2r machines?
It’s fixed at 15ips, 8 tracks across full width...
@@DanBakerMusic thanks, I am not too familiar with these machines.
Looks like it is made to be recorded through the bus of a console unlike we use out from channels to DAW these days.
Hi Dan, is there any reason why the 1 kHz tone is playing back slightly higher (approx 1.1 kHz)?
Tapes, machines, electronics etc. on old home recorders like this had a manufacturing tolerance of light bulbs! The pitch control was in the middle, but the speed of the motor can be tweaked in two places, the back of the motor and the control card. You're lucky if you see 1.00kHz out of a machine like this. I used to work for EMI in the 1990s, and I lined up Studer A800 24 track 2" machines - even they varied a bit, though excellent sounding decks. Level alignment on a Fostex R8 wavers about 1 - 2dB anyway, so if it's 1.5kHz or 800 Hz, you get the same result. I think people get hung up on this as we're now used to digital equipment that has a flat response from 20Hz to 20,000Hz, with only perhaps 0.5dB either way....
Hi Dan, I've got a R8 but the remote is missing. Is there a way I could check whether the machine works. I tried the buttons on the machine but the main tape motor doesn't turn. The pinch roller moves but thats about it. Also any idea how I could get a remote for the machine. Thanks
Hi there-it’s almost certainly the small plastic wheels on the underside of the reels that have parted company with the axles. The plastic wheels crack and then the metal axles turn within them. Your best bet is to glue them back on with araldite, but be careful that none of the glue goes down into the reel motors. Good luck! The remote is only there to display time and arm tracks: the machine will play back without it.
Hi Dan, thanks for your support. I've repaired the winding cogs and now playing a test tape or the first time since, looking at the levels on the playback meters. Your video unless I've missed something focussed on reading output into DAW and listening to tone from DAW. My R8 meter levels vary by 3db and sometimes intermittently. Should I be adjusting something before I even go to DAW, and if so, which pot?
Hi Paul-I used the meters on my DAW as they are far more sensitive and detailed: the R8 ones only give you rough levels. However the DAW meters do show up the age of the machine-don't worry about a dB or so wavering each way...
Thanks Dan, I have had a play with the sensitivity switch too which is certainly a different response, but I take your point and will go with the DAW for calibration.
Mine is a Bostitch R8 8-track recorder and like I said just the the wheels don't turn right away when you play it or record let me know thank you
There are drive belts as well as the plastic cogs that can fail. It sounds like the cogs may be developing cracks against the spindles of the motors. The drive belts have teeth so it’s unlikely to be those. If you take the front plate off the machine (Allen key bolts), you’ll see the plastic cogs: look out for hairline cracks. If there are any, you’ll need to drop a tiny bit of glue once you gently prise open the crack. Be careful with the amount of glue: none should go near the spindle, otherwise it’ll run down into the motor.
Thanks, for the tips. How do you lubricate the capstan on these machines? My R8 is going very slow in play mode after a long period of no using, and it´s definately has something with the capstan to do.
make sure the capstan drive belt isn't stretched out
@@drwolferyes it was the capstan belt, changed it and everything runs smooth
Hey Dan.
I haven't been using a reel to reel machines for a while, just got my R8 as well. Still, need to fix a couple of things, but it's in good condition.
Actually, it's the first time I saw someone says you should store tapes "tail out". Could you explain why it is better? Or send a link where I could read it? Or maybe this can be an idea for new video.
Hi there: storing tapes "tail out" means that you get pre-echo (where the layers of tape gradually magnetize each other), which is preferable to post-echo that would occur with "head out"..
Hm..never thougth of it
+leothemetal I think it's less of an issue when using noise reduction as the faint echoes are more likely to be swallowed up by it!
Well, I used only stereo reel to reel recorders, they go in both directions, so that doesn't make much difference, I guess.
Yes - quite so. Storing the tapes in either direction will end up being the same. It's the "print-through" that tapes have, and the more expensive ones quote dB figures for print-through.
Hello Dan! Good video, thanks. Just got a r8, could you tell me where you got that multi frequency measuring tape?
Hi Daan. I got the tape from USA. Cost of customs clearance was almost the same as the tape! Ended up being £150. I have a stereo quarter inch as well, so it made sense for me to buy. Steer clear of second hand ones as they may have been damaged, not giving you accurate levels. Canford Audio also sell these tapes but we're more expensive than getting one from the USA. Mind you, the £ has plummeted against the $ since I bought the tape, so if you're in the UK, Canford Audio might be best!
Hello Dan,
Thanks for the information. I'm in the Netherlands, so I guess I will buy the tape at that Canford shop (good tip :).
Do you know if I should use IEC or NAB equalization or is this not important?
Greetings Daan
Is that a calibrated test tape?
Yes-it’s a MRL tape-you can get them from Canford Audio but I got mine from the US. Cheaper, even with import tax..
Can I ask you what interface you‘re using?
For this I used a MOTU 828 mk2
Lovely video man. Very very informative. Do you have an email? I’d love to chat and ask some stuff.
Paul
Hi Paul - my Facebook page is “Dan Baker - Musician” - you can find me there. Email a bit ropey - keeps locking me out and then new passwords, etc...
Hey Dan have you thought of moving to LBRY it’s much better platform for interesting creators than Toutube with its ever encroaching right wing narrative and behavioural model.
Oh jesus I just went over to have a look at that thing, what a shit show. These things seem to be just ONLY the stuff youtube banned. Why the actual fuck would someone CHOSE to go there?