Tablesaw Maintenance
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- čas přidán 30. 04. 2022
- In this video, I'll show you my process for creating a smooth operating tablesaw...including, a slick cast iron surface, easy-to-turn handwheels and much more.
If you have the Delta Unifence...you'd love my "Unifence Roller Assembly"! They can be purchased here: ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/...
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Love the videos and I've learned a lot from them. Side note: I have noticed a trend though.... Me: I like that dust system- "out of business". I like that fence- "don't make them anymore". I like that belt sander- "don't make that model anymore". I like that....- "I made it myself". LOL!🤣 I like how you know what you like and you make your stuff last. To many people these days have something new or change how they do stuff on a daily basis. Keep up the good work!
Ha…this made me lol! Thanks a ton for checking out the vids!
Another great video, Ramon. You always manage to talk about something I've never thought of. Keep up the great work!
That’s great to hear…thank you for the feedback!
Ramon. Your videos are so helpful. Keep up the good work!
That’s great to hear! Thanks for the feedback
Awesome as always. Thanks.
Thank you as always ! Awesome! 😬🙏🏼
Good one thanks!
I’ve restored a few rusty tops recently and I’ve started with maroon pad with wd -40, then I use maroon pad with rubbing compound and it just brightens up the cast iron like nothing else and makes it smooth as butter
Yeah, the rubbing compound is a fantastic idea! Much thanks.
Awesome vid...thanks again!
Thanks! I appreciate it
i was just wondering how to get better dust pull from sawstop and your magnetic panel trick reminded me....I will try with some magnetic sheet I have...
It helps! Magnetic sheet is a good idea. Thanks a ton
New subscriber!!! Here from your 45 degree Instagram video. 🔥🔥🔥🔥
So awesome to hear! Thanks a ton!
Nice one Ramon!
Thank you. Always appreciated!
Excellent information.
I have had excellent results covering the table with shop towels and spraying with vinegar.
It will remove all the rust and soften any glue.
Follow it up with a 3M pads.
My outfield table and assembly table is covered with left over laminate flooring. Excellent results.
Sounds like another great solution ! Thanks a lot 🙏🏼
Use Graphite and GN Molydisuflide to lubricate a tablesaw.
Love that primitive but effective and renewable (new notches) push stick (panel really). No more fancy oak with stain and finish getting nicked and pissing me off! I’ll spend my time making things that last. 😂
Oh yeah! I don’t think I’ve ever very seen a better pushstick than the type I make. Push panel? 😆 Scraps, simple to make in 30 seconds, ergonomic, and holds down the materials perfectly! Much thanks.
Hi ramon, thanks for sending the package so soon. Nafta is the solvent for Waxilit ;-)
That was a great order! I appreciate the support! 🙏🏼👊🏼
Yeah…you’re right, naptha works better but I was out. 😬
Great info Ramon! I have used Johnson's Paste Wax for years on my tablesaw and bandsaw tables with no issues. My primary finishes are oil based poly, shellac or BLO. I seldom ever use lacquer though. I'm with you on push sticks. I don't like the commercially made ones and use a variation that Marc Adams touted in one of his videos that is much the same as yours in that it puts down force toward the front of the board. I always enjoy your videos Ramon, keep 'em coming my friend!!
Thanks Bob…I appreciate the view and feedback!
Thanks Bob…I appreciate the view and feedback!
Interesting video, some nice tips and tricks there. I would also like to see how you clean your blades and keep them free from resin build up.
Thanks Derek! What species of wood do you cut most? My blades seldom get resin build up…but I cut hardwoods mostly. Pine is the worst for build up. And occasionally, if I do need to clean a blade I pour a small amount of lacquer thinner into a five gallon bucket, set a lid on it and let that sit overnight. In the morning, I simply wipe it with a paper towel. Much thanks.
@@ramonartful thank you for the response, unfortunately I have a massive amount of pine to work my way through. About 400 lengths of 4x2 and 800 lengths of 3c3. My blades require cleaning daily. What I am also finding is that there is not as much choice in the UK when it comes to products and everything seams to be a lot more expensive. One example is a corded 1/4" dewalt router in the US is about $150 uk equivalent is well over £300 more than double the price. The only blade cleaner available in UK is by trend and its £17 for 500ml. I will give the laquire thinners at try. Thanks.
Again, another great video. I alway learn something. Thank you. Where do you get your magnets? Of the many things I have learned from you is the practical use of magnets. I live in a rural NM Montana and no one has them around here.
Thanks Patrick. I use K & J Magnetics. They have decent prices and their magnets are quality. I’m working on an eBook that’ll be titled Magnets…101 uses. 😬
Here’s the website. (I have no affiliation, just like their stuff!)
www.kjmagnetics.com/
Sawstop says to use marine grease on gears, etc in their saws.
I always learn something new from your Vids Ramon. Looks like Waxlit is now gone from market in US? Lee Valley no longer has it. Nor amazon.
There was an article in a FWW magazine that listed Johnson’s Workbench as a source. Order by phone only. Thanks
800-292-5937
I laughed when I saw your sticker on the left hand alignment mark on your fence that is used when the fence is laying down. Mine has a piece of blue tape there. I'm guessing like me, you used the wrong one once or twice and decided to fix that! I keep a six inch steel rule on the top of the fence in the recess in the front where the yellow sticker is. Comes in handy for fine adjustments on the saw and I stick it under the fence to raise it up when tightening the fence to eliminate the drag. Looks like you keep yours a little higher than me so that tip may not be as useful for you. Thanks for another great video.
Yes, exactly! And once I set a rag with lacquer thinner on the clear plastic piece with the cursors. 😆 Fortunately, I was able to get a replacement. I suppose I could have made one. Yeah, I just eyeball the height to about 3/16”. I love your idea though…two for one with the ruler Much thanks.
Of all the " Best push stick ever", yours makes the most sense and is made in minutes.
Right!? Quick, simple…effective 😬🙏🏼
Thank you for all these tips. And formica does seem ideal for those purposes. Let's say it was difficult to obtain, would next choice still be melamine (which you also mentioned)?
Well…melamine is just too thin to hold up. It’s not even water proof. Wood glue after a while will pull chunks of it loose. And what’s even worse is when I see people sanding melamine to “clean it up”. Now glues will really stick! If I couldn’t get Formica, I would just use MDF. It’s hard and very dense. Ideally, MDF with Formica is fantastic! But it’s heavy and generally costs more than particle board. Hope that helps.
@@ramonartful Sure does. Appreciated.
I trust your expertise on everything. I mean you no disrespect.
WD40 simply evaporates for me.
I've had a lot of luck with red grease.
Using a meat injector ($20.00) to apply small portions. Air pressure blows out the old.
Also great for over head garage door hinges.
I appreciate that. I didn’t like grease when I tried it. But we all use what we like yeah? Thanks for the feedback 🙏🏼
Do you use vac press to glue your veneers?
I do…I’ve had a bag for about 20 years plus. Soooo useful for jobs like this! I even made my own plywood or substrate. Thanks. Check out more here: More Veneering Tips!
czcams.com/video/-zr01LbWVbc/video.html
Thanks for the tips. I was just wondering if I should use wd40 and made a big difference 👍
I like it. Easy to use, works well. Thanks
I thought WD 40 is more solvent then lubricant?
It probably is…but it works well for the acme threads and metal rub points. I mean, it’s really too light of an oil for this but the sawdust kinda keeps it there.
Marine grease I’ve never used. It seems to me that it could get very thick with dust causing a lot of drag on the crank. I could be wrong. I’ve seen just about everything (or nothing!) on these saws. WD 40 works the best for me. Much thanks.
NEVER apply any wax to your table saw. it will stain your work. Bad Advise.
Wax (if it was applied extremely sloppily) could effect a top coat type finish like lacquer or conversion varnish. Adhesion problem, which I mentioned.
But a stain issue? That doesn’t make sense. You have heard of WAX and oil type WOOD finishes, right? Thanks
Sorry but your still doing it wrong and working too hard. Use Evaporust to remove rust. No Scrubbing Then get your top surface ground flat to a fine finish. Finally get your top copper plated then Nickel electroplated, satin finish not bright nickel. It will never rust again.
DONE.
I know tons of high caliber woodworkers…never have I seen anyone copper plate then electroplate their table saw. Is yours like that? Are you messing with me? It’s little early for April fools. Where I live, we have zero issues with rust.