I'm not going anywhere. I don't post at any certain intervals, more like when I think I have something good to share... but I don't plan to quit anytime soon.
90GTVert I hope not. You are one of the main go to channel for help with these bikes man. I got my bike that is bad to the bone and you are the one that got me through some troubles easily. I really appreciate your work.
never do grease on a rubber sealant... the grease will work on it and cause leaking. do dry assembly or take a little amount of cooling fluid... but never ever grease. and by the way, the snap ring at the end is damaged. all in all a good video
I remember commenting on one of your waterpump video's about the pin that is prone to sliding out of the plastic drive wheel. That just happened to me, and god knows how long I have driven without a working waterpump not knowing it isn't working. I always like to double check if the pin sits all the way into the drive wheel, you don't want the drive wheel to bottom out against the bearing before the pin sits in the already very narrow seat. This is a very bad design if you ask me, the drive wheel where the pin sits just needs to be a little more deeper so it doesn't slide out left or right. The coolant we like to use is G12, Volkswagens proprietary coolant which is readily availablr and cheap, but seems to be a little more oily-like so it lubricates the seal better.
No. It's not connected to the internals of the engine where you need to have it sealed. You'll just overheat very quickly without the pump and coolant.
You will need to drain the coolant. If you drain into a clean container, then you can reuse the coolant if it's in good condition. If it's not clean, then it would be a good time to consider flushing before refilling.
I'm not sure how the healing is going. I thought it was going good for a while and I was getting around OK. Then as it warmed up and I needed to do more, the leg is kinda going backwards (not literally lol). Now the broken knee area hurts most of the time, and the other knee hurts taking up it's slack, and I've got my back and hip hurting probably from moving different than I always have and trying to push too much. I'll get there eventually I guess. Just a much longer process than I would have hoped for and it seems likely that I'll prob have some effects from this forever. Thanks for asking.
Sometimes even a new seal doesn't seal. That's why I always pressure/leak test engine builds. Could be as simple as that or maybe you need to check everything for wear. The housings can wear. My aftermarket kart pump has rebuild kits and I have rebuilt one only to find that the housing had worn and it leaked after.
You could try heating the shaft and see if it will release then with vise grips or tapping it out. If it's really in there and you can't free it, then the pin could be cut and ground till the shaft could be removed. Most likely this will necessitate replacement of the impeller shaft as well, but if it's stuck that badly it may be needed anyway.
Question for ya. I've got a spare mineralli engine that the piston pin bearing shattered, so I'll be separating the case and upgrading the crank as well. What crank and cylinder combo would you recommend for a pretty aggressive street machine?
I'm prob a bad one to ask because I really like the 90cc stuff and usually go that route. There are a bunch of 70cc midrace kits though. Take a look on sites like scootertuning.ca and scooter-attack and they have LC and AC versions of many kits. Midrace is about as far as you probably want to go for something you really ride. Sport if you ride daily or at least a lot.
I bought all my parts for my af16 spree build through scootertuning.ca and plan to do so for the minarelli build. Would you not recommend a 90cc build for a street driven scooter? I have a 90cc cylinder that's just been sitting around that I can use, I just figured I'd look into stroking it as well since I have to take the crank out.
@@reissfullspeedahead I like the 90s, but the only issue for a really strong runner is finding a good exhaust. Not sure if 190mech on the forum has any Peace Pipes around or for sale anymore.
I don't have a vid up specifically about the install, but it's simple and can be seen below. Studs with rubber bushings install on the flywheel, which can be seen here : czcams.com/video/mTak1ywgZWA/video.html The cover and pump assembly then aligns the holes in the drive wheel with those studs and pushes on so it can be bolted on. Then the hoses go on. Seen here : czcams.com/video/uMr5Ea6albA/video.html All sorts of details about how the drive system goes together and works here : czcams.com/video/Yu_Mgi67fQ8/video.html
@@49ccscoot wohoo! I was planning to use a pump from a parking heater out of a car But than i realized it draws 5 amps If i also install a cooling Fan on the radiator , its gonna be a tought time for the battery and igniton
You mean the hose won't come off of the water pump or it's under a house like the Wizard of Oz? Hopefully just a hose. Try to gently get it free with a flat screwdriver, being careful not to tear it or scratch anything. If the hoses are old, then it may not be worth the trouble and you can cut them off and replace them.
@@gucciman6052 Oh, OK. There should be 2 or 3 bolts around the perimeter. Then you have to pull it a little to remove it because the rubber parts may be a little stuck in the drive pulley.
Too much,water pump,oil cooler things going wrong.Installed 60cc from aliexpress 20$.This 50cc are high precision from mc-miljeau to never make it.Atteched a turbo-fan,and extra air inlet to obtain the motor force on long,warm tours.
I was purely AC for a long time and there's nothing wrong with it. It served me well many times. Just exploring the world of LC. If nothing else, it's more stuff to learn and try to figure out.
@@49ccscoot It is brackets for radiator on my peugeot V-Clic.I probaly imported 1,of I needed a new and it was unavaible.For 1000$.V-clic evp2 45km\h has an extra tube on the clutch contra spring,5cm.It`s a restrictor,but when attched you get the mercedes gear-change.Because the belt do not lock itself on the axle.And with light weights it loose the belt-grip in front and gain rpm.Buy the original clutch,with the tube installed.I also use white 1000 rpm contra,and red 3000 rpm clutch springs to have this luxury.
Thats the clearest most comprehensive video for this repair, many thanks!
Top men thanks for the video
Thank you, perfect video!
Old 90GTVert making new vids wooooooooooo!
may god bless you for making this video
I really like S6s quality when it comes to their SSP line. The aluminum is good quality, the SSP riser used on my rear shock has worked wonders.
Dam buddy I thought you left long ago good to see you back on the old two strokes
I'm not going anywhere. I don't post at any certain intervals, more like when I think I have something good to share... but I don't plan to quit anytime soon.
90GTVert I hope not. You are one of the main go to channel for help with these bikes man. I got my bike that is bad to the bone and you are the one that got me through some troubles easily. I really appreciate your work.
never do grease on a rubber sealant... the grease will work on it and cause leaking. do dry assembly or take a little amount of cooling fluid... but never ever grease. and by the way, the snap ring at the end is damaged. all in all a good video
Well done!
I remember commenting on one of your waterpump video's about the pin that is prone to sliding out of the plastic drive wheel. That just happened to me, and god knows how long I have driven without a working waterpump not knowing it isn't working. I always like to double check if the pin sits all the way into the drive wheel, you don't want the drive wheel to bottom out against the bearing before the pin sits in the already very narrow seat.
This is a very bad design if you ask me, the drive wheel where the pin sits just needs to be a little more deeper so it doesn't slide out left or right.
The coolant we like to use is G12, Volkswagens proprietary coolant which is readily availablr and cheap, but seems to be a little more oily-like so it lubricates the seal better.
great video. thanks dude.
Great video!
thanks helpt alot
great video
Question if I have this removed and run my engine will create a air leak ?
No. It's not connected to the internals of the engine where you need to have it sealed. You'll just overheat very quickly without the pump and coolant.
Will this make you use and lose lot of coolant if it need change
You will need to drain the coolant. If you drain into a clean container, then you can reuse the coolant if it's in good condition. If it's not clean, then it would be a good time to consider flushing before refilling.
Top men just put water kit yamaha aerox yq 50 . Love video do recommend to a person to give him watch . Big thanks
woohoo, finally a new video :D Nice one ! How was your healing process going? :)
I'm not sure how the healing is going. I thought it was going good for a while and I was getting around OK. Then as it warmed up and I needed to do more, the leg is kinda going backwards (not literally lol). Now the broken knee area hurts most of the time, and the other knee hurts taking up it's slack, and I've got my back and hip hurting probably from moving different than I always have and trying to push too much. I'll get there eventually I guess. Just a much longer process than I would have hoped for and it seems likely that I'll prob have some effects from this forever. Thanks for asking.
@@49ccscoot Yeah, some effect will remain unfortunately :( But try with therapy as much as you can... wish you well! :))
I have problem with my bike when i start bike whole water leaks from head will this help?
It sounds more like you have a head gasket or o-ring that isn't sealing.
Hm kit is leaking on the back side by the shaft, I wonder went wrong.
Sometimes even a new seal doesn't seal. That's why I always pressure/leak test engine builds. Could be as simple as that or maybe you need to check everything for wear. The housings can wear. My aftermarket kart pump has rebuild kits and I have rebuilt one only to find that the housing had worn and it leaked after.
How many mm is spacer
I feel like you are too quick to buy aftermarket parts. Those are always a gamble. Original parts are the most responsible choice.
I can't disagree with that. Of course my luck I get a n OEM housing and it's made out of spec. lol
What do I do if I can’t remove pin?
You could try heating the shaft and see if it will release then with vise grips or tapping it out. If it's really in there and you can't free it, then the pin could be cut and ground till the shaft could be removed. Most likely this will necessitate replacement of the impeller shaft as well, but if it's stuck that badly it may be needed anyway.
Question for ya. I've got a spare mineralli engine that the piston pin bearing shattered, so I'll be separating the case and upgrading the crank as well. What crank and cylinder combo would you recommend for a pretty aggressive street machine?
I'm prob a bad one to ask because I really like the 90cc stuff and usually go that route. There are a bunch of 70cc midrace kits though. Take a look on sites like scootertuning.ca and scooter-attack and they have LC and AC versions of many kits. Midrace is about as far as you probably want to go for something you really ride. Sport if you ride daily or at least a lot.
I bought all my parts for my af16 spree build through scootertuning.ca and plan to do so for the minarelli build. Would you not recommend a 90cc build for a street driven scooter? I have a 90cc cylinder that's just been sitting around that I can use, I just figured I'd look into stroking it as well since I have to take the crank out.
@@reissfullspeedahead I like the 90s, but the only issue for a really strong runner is finding a good exhaust. Not sure if 190mech on the forum has any Peace Pipes around or for sale anymore.
i would go for 80cc personally, its not just the power that matters, 80cc runs a lot more smoother but also should catch 120 km/h
Can you show how to install on the scooter
I don't have a vid up specifically about the install, but it's simple and can be seen below.
Studs with rubber bushings install on the flywheel, which can be seen here :
czcams.com/video/mTak1ywgZWA/video.html
The cover and pump assembly then aligns the holes in the drive wheel with those studs and pushes on so it can be bolted on. Then the hoses go on. Seen here :
czcams.com/video/uMr5Ea6albA/video.html
All sorts of details about how the drive system goes together and works here :
czcams.com/video/Yu_Mgi67fQ8/video.html
What grease did you use? Can I use multi purpose grease
Yeah, I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease.
Does anyone know if it’s the same process for an Aprilia sr50 piaggio engine?
Lewis Jay no its not
Vilius thank you
Will This pump fit on the 1PE40QMB engine?
Yes. That's what I use them on.
@@49ccscoot wohoo!
I was planning to use a pump from a parking heater out of a car
But than i realized it draws 5 amps
If i also install a cooling Fan on the radiator , its gonna be a tought time for the battery and igniton
@@tamer27antepli You can get pumps that draw about an amp. Stay tuned for my next video. ;)
My problem is i cant get house of the aerox
You mean the hose won't come off of the water pump or it's under a house like the Wizard of Oz?
Hopefully just a hose. Try to gently get it free with a flat screwdriver, being careful not to tear it or scratch anything. If the hoses are old, then it may not be worth the trouble and you can cut them off and replace them.
49ccScoot can i send you a video somwhere i not so good at english so its hard to explain
49ccScoot you know the thing you showing in the video it wont come of the moped
@@gucciman6052 Oh, OK. There should be 2 or 3 bolts around the perimeter. Then you have to pull it a little to remove it because the rubber parts may be a little stuck in the drive pulley.
Hello mate, any way to get into a private message with you?
CZcams disabled them. I'm on the forum and you can PM there.
Too much,water pump,oil cooler things going wrong.Installed 60cc from aliexpress 20$.This 50cc are high precision from mc-miljeau to never make it.Atteched a turbo-fan,and extra air inlet to obtain the motor force on long,warm tours.
I was purely AC for a long time and there's nothing wrong with it. It served me well many times. Just exploring the world of LC. If nothing else, it's more stuff to learn and try to figure out.
@@49ccscoot It is brackets for radiator on my peugeot V-Clic.I probaly imported 1,of I needed a new and it was unavaible.For 1000$.V-clic evp2 45km\h has an extra tube on the clutch contra spring,5cm.It`s a restrictor,but when attched you get the mercedes gear-change.Because the belt do not lock itself on the axle.And with light weights it loose the belt-grip in front and gain rpm.Buy the original clutch,with the tube installed.I also use white 1000 rpm contra,and red 3000 rpm clutch springs to have this luxury.
@@49ccscoot It does not restrict on 45km\h this tube,but 65-75...km\h depends on tire weights,rim,roller-weight.Naraku springs.