I Hand Sewed a Majestic Winter Wool Cloak
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- čas přidán 9. 02. 2022
- Who doesn’t need a majestic winter cloak this time of year? The Victorian talma I made last summer just wasn’t cutting it for winter’s frigid chill, so as a historical fashion wearer, I had to hand sew something thicker. Luckily, I already had this gorgeous wool tartan fabric in my stash, so this was an excellent stash busting project.
Whilst technically a 19th century fashion outerwear garment, I feel this cloak is kind of timeless, and would also work for a number of different periods throughout history.
As per usual, this cloak is constructed completely with historical hand sewing, utilising archaic methods to the best of my ability.
Most of all, this Victorian cloak matches my bashlik I made in January! So now the two can be paired together for extra customisable use.
I hope you enjoyed watching this construction process and I’ll see you all in two weeks for another video!
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#historicalfashion #cloak #handsewn - Zábava
Thank you so much for watching! Do you feel inspired now to sew a winter cloak as well?
P.S. Captions will be updated later on today.
I am now definitely making myself a cloak! the cartridge pleating look so nice on the collar!
Yes I will make one :) its beautiful, Caroline.
@@lisez4600 thanks! Happy sewing 😊
@@wcwparts8314 Aww lovely! Happy sewing!
I was already in the planning stages before this posted. I have gone so far as to acquire a child's cloak pattern so that I can practice with fabric that is in my stash.
Everyone needs a good cloak… it’s a truth universally acknowledged, having the detached hood is always good as well
Complete truth!
I have 3- seriously they are simply THE BEST.
I absolutely love the belt buckle as a closure! It's dramatic, but works so well with the hefty collar :) Also loving how this cloak pairs with the bashlik into even warmer set!
Thanks so much Gitta! 😊
I love the idea of using a belt buckle that looks like the sun for a cloak closure. It definitely has Celtic vibes. --Lyssa WA, USA
Thanks so much Lyssa! It just felt like the right pairing in my heart.
That variegated silk works extremely well with the plaid!
Thank you! I wasn't certain initially if it would work, but I was pleasantly surprised that it does 😊
Another great video, as always! I'm ready for the cloak to make a mainstream comeback!
Thank you so much! You and me both! I'm surprised it hasn't already honestly.
So lovely! How wonderful!
Thanks so much for sharing this project Vasi. The final result is astonishing. Great job. 😊
It looks sooo warm and cozy!
The belt buckle is a lovely cherry on top of this lovely cloak! I love the nice greens in the cloak & lining 🌿🍃
Thank you Lilja! 💕
Wow! Thank you for the tips! Beautiful!
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed 😊
Very good video, thanks. Looks lovely.
I simply love your videos! Your cloak is gorgeous, excellent work ❤️ Thank you for sharing your masterpieces with us!
Thanks so much for your constant support 😊
I love seeing you do this by hand!!! Amazing 🤩
Thank you so much! 🥰
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Such a beautiful wool. And silk.
Thank you! 😊
Yet another delight to watch, V! I love your clever solutions when making your garments behave as you envisioned.
Thanks so much Donna! 😊
Oh my goodnes gracious! That looks gorgeus! I am in love with cloaks and video like this just warms my heart.
I'm very glad! Thanks so much for your comment 😊
Gorgeous! That turned out magnificent! The colors look so good together !
Thank you so much! 😊
Very darn nice!!
Thank you! Cheers!
I’m in the process of making a cloak out of some beautiful teal velvet drapes. The lining is made of insulated drapes and I’m running into a problem with bulk at the collar. Watching your video has given me an idea of how to solve this dilemma. I machine stitched and then pulled the threads but I think a larger running stitch would probably work better.
I’d love to make a nice wool cloak but besides the fabric being incredibly expensive, I can’t even find it around here. I’d have to order online.
I really do enjoy your videos. I’ve learned a lot and they are inspiring. Thank you so much for sharing them with us.
Very cool 😀
The production and final product itself is so lovely, your videos are always nice to wash
Thank you Watson Melon! 😊
Beautiful cloak! I especially love the silk velvet lining with the wool!
Thank you! 😊
It looks absolutely gorgeous with or without the hood xxxxxxxxx
Thank you Tabitha! 💕
It goes really well with the dress you are wearing with it! Looks great!
Thanks so much! The dress is the bodice and skirt from The Berry Dress ensemble I hand sewed in some previous videos 😊it's just style in a more casual way.
Those cartridge pleats are SATISFYING to look at! I am loving your work with winter garments!
Thank you so much!!
Your finishing work is getting so lovely
Thank you Kathy! 😊
Ooh it looks stunning! And with that wonderful music, so dramatic !
Thank you Surya! 😊
just beautiful
Smashing work V! You are so very talented, resourceful, and creative. The amount of work that you put into your wardrobe is incredible, not to mention the video/editing/historical accuracy bits! Keep at it, you are real treasure
Thanks so much Mitchell! I really appreciate it 😊
Absolutely gorgeous... I truly love it , it's beautiful 💚💛💚
Caroline from Canada.
Thank you so much! 😊
you do such gorgeous and thoughtful work.
Aww thank you so much! I really appreciate it!
I can _feel_ just how warm you must be in this cloak just by watching you wear it. Also it's absolutely epic, especially with the bashlik
Thanks so much! I love your use of italics here 😅
So inspiring!! Beautiful video as always
Thank you 😊
The wool fabric is so beautiful, not only in color but in quality and strength. IThe cloak turned out absolutely lovely and looks great with the hood-scarf.
I imagine some of my dolls would look very fine in such an item.
Thank you as always for great inspiration and I hope things are working out for you!
Thanks so much Mel! Your dolls would look absolutely lovely in a cloak I’m sure 😊
It looks so cool!
Thank you! 😊
So pretty!
Thank you very much!
That looks so good! I love the aesthetic of it, and it just looks so warm and cozy! You did a great job.
Thanks so much! 😊
Yes! Cloaks for all 😎
They’re a fabulous garment!
What a fun and quick project. I loved how it came out. It looks like it should keep you nice and warm against the bite of the winter cold. The colors compliment your skin tone so well. Its so pretty on you 😍 I made a cloak once. It wasn't anything this nice. Just some cheap corduroy I got from a discount bin and a simplicity pattern. Since it was for the renaissance fair, in the middle of summer I didn't line it. I broke the needle in my sewing machine and had to hem it by hand. Nothing fancy, but its was functional. It was a pretty easy project for a then novice garment maker.
Thanks so much DesertRose! And thanks for sharing your own cloak-making experience 😊
Love it.
It's beautiful!
Thank you! 😊
Can you please dedicate an entire video to wearing a cloak in the wind
I make short little lookbooks from time to time for a single outfit with a character I’ve developed and a storyline, so that’ll come pretty close in the future! 😄
V. Birchwood - Historical Fashion so you will manage to film it in strong wind gusts like I do?
Brava!
Gorgeous 😍
Thank you! 😊
Another beauty!
thank you 😊
Sooo beautiful!!!! This is perfect for the cold weather, it looks so warm! And the video too, so beautifully made, as always V!
I pressed the bell to get all notifications, since CZcams decided not to show your video and I had to seek it manually, anyway I hope it works now. So sad, ugh CZcams! But anyway, your videos are always wonderful and you make beautiful things. 💚
Thank you Sua 💕 I don't know why CZcams has been doing that to so many creators and channels now. Thanks for pressing the bell!
Hello, I'm new to sewing so it is a bit of a challenge. I have the patterns for a cape and it's my current process, will take a little time as I don't have a sewing machine and will sew it manually. After watching your video I felt inspired, because I was thinking about quitting. My sister is an expert dress maker and told me to remember that in the past there were no sewing machines so I could do it, no excuses. And after your inspiring video, I will definitely do it. And as you said, here in the UK I might be able to wear it in spring. Thank you!!! 🙂
Hi Cristina! Well done for taking the leap (even if it might feel scary or be really challenging in the beginning). You can absolutely hand sew anything, and in fact I’d say more things can be hand sewn than machine sewn. Some of the historical silhouettes and pieces, for example, I find much easier to hand sew, as they were originally designed to be hand sewn so they’re built that way. Really glad the video gave you some inspiration! 😊
Thank you so much, Ms. V. This is truly stunning work. Well done.
You know, Cos Tube may want to start thinking about unionizing. You see, we live in Centretown (downtown) Ottawa, so right now we are literally surrounded by Nazi and 'confederate' flag enthusiast who have dominated the city for almost two weeks for an anti-mask/vax occupation. There's a huge spike in hate crimes - they're parked in the middle of our Rainbow District. Anyone with a hijab is either in hiding or is forced to walked through the blocked intersections to get to their Starbucks job. My husband was attacked on Monday afternoon. The list goes on and on. BUT...
My main point in this doom list of woes - the "protesters" have a large number of live stream channels on the You Tube (they're the only way I can figure out the safest route to the grocery / pharmacy about 30 minutes away by walking; there are no buses). You Tube is no longer allowing me to flag comments in their live-chat like "Hang Trudeau (the Prime Minister) from the Crane" in front of Parliament Hill, "blood will run in the street", "it's fun to beat people with bats", "if peaceful protest doesn't work, then burn the city down". That's just a sampling of what they are saying. Been flagging every day since the "protesters" got here. Yesterday You Tube wouldn't let me post yet another string of threats to the government and to us. Apparently there is a glass ceiling for "imminent threat" reports.
And yet. You're under a 90 day suspension for raising funds for a (Re)Housing charity. And the "Protest" channels are making hand over fist in donations. Someone, or a whole bunch of someone's, may one to point this out to the people in charge of the algorithms... You Tube is making money off of terror and hate crimes.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Thank you so much Cathy!
I'm so sorry you and Steve are having to go through that, and I hope you're able to stay safe and that this stops soon! It's all such an awful situation and no one deserves to feel unsafe in their own neighbourhood 😔
As for the suspension, it's actually a lifetime ban! I'm just trying the appeal again once the 90 day period is up. No progress on that front sadly. It's really frustrating sometimes posting on such a large platform. It's sort of like, I love my visitors and coworkers, but my boss drives me mad 😂That's the best analogy I can come up with.
@@VBirchwood Excuse the language, dear algorithm, but my jaw just hit the f-ing floor.
Lifetime. You have to be (expletive's deleted and deleted) kidding me. They put you under a lifetime ban for trying to raise money for a (Re)Housing charity.
Seriously. Search for Ottawa Truckers Protests Live Streams on dear old You Tube. Real easy to find. They showed up in my Recommend on the second day of the (expletive's deleted) PROTEST!
Watch the live chat stream. See what trash these so-called protesters are putting out there. Homophobic, misogynistic, anti-Muslim, anti-woman, Handmaid's Tale level crap. These channels have gotten monetized within days of being up. They have commercials for f sake...
And donations. Tones of them per half hour. Straight into their pockets. The Rubes thing they're donating to the Truckers. Yeah, well, let me stroke my beard as I ponder the odds...
Unionize. In memory of my Maternal Grandfather the 1930's-50's Union Organizer in Northern Ontario... there's got to be some way to collectively fight this. This is unacceptable.
I love it its so flashy
Thank you!!
@@VBirchwood your welcome
Love it
Thank you!
I love the way you lined it and didnt bring the lining all the way up!!
Thanks so much Laura!
I need a cloak! LIKE RIGHT. NOW. 😀 Yours looks absolutely amazing
Thank you! You totally should make one. Such an important garment to own 🥰
@@VBirchwood And a really cool one as well.
Yes!! 😊
That is very beautiful and you look fabulous. I haven’t been able to bring myself to sew since my mom recently passed , she made quilts,but I know I will start again
Thank you so much! My condolences again.
Aww thanks and I did get out material today to make a petticoat for the first time.
Clooooooak, cloak cloak cloak! After my finished bashlyk I want a cloak too but I need way more wool. Hehe
Great plan though! They’re a great set of garments alone or together 🥰
Very nice! You did a great job! I recently made a cloak for my daughter, but I couldn't find wool at the fabric store so I used warm fleece and lined it with thinner fleece. I hand sewed mine as well because that is how I like to sew, and don't know how to use a sewing machine. I can post a photo of it for you somewhere if you'd like. After she wore it to work, three of her friends have asked me to make them one, so I may have other ones to show eventually.
Thanks so much!
That sounds lovely! I'd love to see a photo 😊Email is perhaps the best way to send it over. My email is vbirchwoodhistorical at gmail (hopefully this makes sense, I can't add the ending to gmail because CZcams will flag this comment as spam)
@@VBirchwood sent. If you'd like, I will take some close up photos of just the cloak for you. I noticed in the ones I sent, the stitching looks messy and puckered in the photo, if you enlarge the pic, but it is not at all. I can send some good ones showing the extra things I did if you want.
this is so cool
Seeing you used silk, I wondered what the people of the past used for interfacing. Fusible fleece and other types of iron-on interfacings are relatively new inventions, but surely the need for adding structure and stability for garments arose a long time ago.
They used a number of things! Organdie, organza, horsehair canvas, glued fabric (using rabbit glue etc), board stiffening. They’d also used whalebones (baleen) to offer structure, like most Victorian bodices. Also stiffened linen. I’ve never actually use fusible interfacing because the options are so many with historical choices.
That is so lovely! I was giveth a long wool gray cape today. The tag says made in Paris, France. It has 10 small holes. Not sure how to fix them. I cut out a pattern tonight to hopefully make a lining for it. I want to do it in flannel. It has no hood. It drapes beautifully over the shoulders and is ankle length. I've never made a lining before. I was planning on sewing it up and then just tacking it at seems? Leaving the bottom hang free. I though I would hand embroider the edges around neck and down the front. Any advice would be nice. I thought I might look for a King size flannel sheet set. If at Thrift Store it would be neat. I think it must be cut on the bias. I love watching your videos. Thank you
Go raibh míle maith agat; thanks a million!
Love the look of the light colored cloak over the darker dress. Such a pretty contrast and a welcome reprieve from the usual black/grey/dark blue.
Did you consider using something like horsehair hemming tape as interlining for the collar?
Thank you so much! I think I initially didn't really know whether I wanted the collar standing or fold over, but it didn't quite work as a fold over collar so I left it standing 😂I thought about adding a layer of horsehair canvas but once the thought entered my mind, I was already attaching cartridge pleats so it was a bit too late. Perhaps I'll perform some surgery and open up the top of the collar to add a layer of canvas! Or maybe just even more boning channels and some millinery wire.
This looks absolutely stunning! Would you mind sharing the thread you use for this project and the needle size?
Cartridge pleats! 👍
They’re the best! 😊
Beautiful!
Thank you! 💕
Very well done! Especially the collar.
What music did you use at the end? It's lovely.
Thank you so much! 😊 the song is called “Folklore” by Ardie Son
Beautiful cloak. The gather and collar of any cloak is always a pain in the bahookie, trying to keep it from looking heavy and inelegant. Probably a wise move to only line it partially, which also keeps the weight at the bottom. I have to say that a well draped plaid or arisaid feels less constrictive and has a more adaptable usage, plus the joy of not having to sew it 😁
Thanks so much! I've been wanting to "make" an earasaid for a while, perhaps at some point soon since as you say, they don't even need to be sewn 😊
Your cloak is lovely!
Tbh, I feel inspired to continue my current dress expansion (not new clothes). That said, I tend to prefer coats to cloaks, and have quite a few of both, for autumn/spring, and winter
Thanks Catherine! I hope your dress expansion is going well! I can understand the preference for coats. i prefer them sometimes too 😊
@@VBirchwood so far, so good! This one needed an adjustment, and I will probably have to redo another, less monochromatic one, because part of it is the only source of enough fabric to do the silhouette I am striving for. (The other one is a patchwork style house dress, so, it will have a different look when I use scrap fabric to put it back together again. ) It should all work out, just, not exactly how I thought at first.
Sounds lovely! I guess that’s the magic of sewing and making art in general though 😊
@@VBirchwood yes, the freedom to choose what has priority. The creativity and drive to make the things most desired at the moment.
It does sound very arty, now that I write it out
U look fabulous.... I mean u always do.
Thank you!! 😊
You are a braver woman than me to 1) do so many cartridge pleats on heavy wool and 2) do the whole thing by hand.
Hahaha thank you! The key to trusting the cartridge pleat process is just a very, very strong waxed silk thread. Otherwise something might pop 🙃
You can reinforce cartridge pleats with a row or two of backstitches on the inside.
That cloak is super duper uber dreamy. But how do you press your fabric? I assume pressing always goes with ironing, when one glides the hot iron over the fabric?
*THE NEXT TIME* you do a large standing collar - you need to back BOTH pieces of fabric with heavy linen canvas, excluding the hemming, fold over the canvas and sew.
If you want it to be very compliant and malleable - you need to pad stitch the canvas to the collar - you can also create shape this way - pad stitching is way easier and quicker than you think
Thank you 😊 I’ve definitely learned a lot since making this cloak, and tend to pad stitch canvas now to collars
@@VBirchwood 😀
This is incredible. Can I ask what temperature it's warm enough for? I'm toying with the idea of interlining for warmth, or even making a quilted version, but I'd like to maintain the drape.
Good to see you back again! Missed you last Thursday!
I have so much to say!
Okay, first, the cloak is so beautiful and it goes perfectly with the bashlik (spelling?). I love that you made two separate, complimentary garments for ample customization!
For the collar, why did you go for boning instead of horsehair? I’ve never made anything that needed to be stiff like that, but I’ve always been told that they use horsehair canvas to stiffen collars and lapels in coats; what was different about this garment that required something else?
ALSO. Your hair at the end. It seems to be a twisted bun in the center with a braid circling around it. I’ve seen this a lot in mid-19th-century photos and fashion plates. How did you achieve it?
Thanks so much for the compliments and for the warm welcome back!
Initially, I hadn't totally decided if it would be a fold over collar (if it'd even work with such a thick wool) or a standing collar, so I only really determined what I wanted to do once it was sewn to the cartridge pleats. Ideally, I probably should have interlined it with a layer of horsehair canvas, but since I didn't, boning was my next solution. Some Victorian collars were boned rather than canvased, and then later on styles even had wire in them! So yeah, nothing fancy behind the reasoning, was just trying to correct a lapse of judgement really 😂
Thanks for the hair compliment! I didn't actually do anything special with it here. I just tied it into a wound bun and then pinned it a bunch, but I had my hair cut recently so it's been acting quite slippery and it came undone a bit. I think that's what made the braid look, but there's no actual braid there 😊
@@VBirchwood That’s really interesting! Thank you for the information!
Dp you havs any measurements ? And how did you make the hood?
allthough totally not historical i have a handmade wool jedi cloak and that thing is so warm and comfy !
That’s so awesome!
It turned out amazing! I recently also made a cloak from wool! I was wondering if you have some tips for ironing wool? My grandma told me to iron it with a damp towel on top but when I tried that the wool went all fluffy and the part I tried it out on feels more like fleece than wool! So now I didn't iron the rest of the seams at all..
Thanks so much! How lovely, I'm sure your cloak turned out beautiful. What I'll normally do is pre-wash my wool (if I can) on a wool setting in the machine, allow to air dry, then I will use a crap ton of steam and press the wool with a bunch of steam. That allows the fibres to shrink up to the actual size they should be for prepped fabric that's ready for sewing. The fibres need moisture, heat, and pressure to conform to their actual shape.
@@VBirchwood Thanks! Yeah I think it's too late to prewash my wool now, but I will certainly keep it in mind for next time!
Its beautiful V and looks so simple! You look beautiful in it as well
I do have plans to make a cloak/cape for next winter but I don't know what kind of wool to get.. Where did you get the closure for that?
Thank you Jessica! 😊 I'd recommend a heavy weight wool coating perhaps, or anything that you feel is going to be warm. Pleating will help to thicken the material even more too as it'll become condensed. The closure is an antique belt buckle that I bought off eBay last year.
@@VBirchwood Thank you V! I will have to do some looking on ebay for some niffy closures then!
Yes! Just search terms like “antique belt buckle” or “Victorian buckle” and you should find some nice options, often very affordable too 😊
@@VBirchwood Thank you!
Hi! What are some sewing books you would recomend?
Hi! I have a video on my favourite historical pattern resources which has some books in it, but I also like:
The Victorian Dressmaker (series) by Prior Attire
Patterns of Fashion (there's a reprint now , so don't spend money on the old prints because they're absurdly expensive)
Making Working Women's Costume
The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking
Draping Period Costumes (but there is no guide for draping sleeves sadly)
Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques
There are a bunch others but that's what I could think of off the top of my head!
Would the cloak be suitable for riding? I love my riding habit jacket but its a bit hard to wear because of all the beading making it rather heavy.
I don’t ride, so I’m not sure honestly! Perhaps depending on the length and material? Something with a lighter weight fabric would mean a bit less bulk when riding 😊
I wouldn't, at least not with a long and/or heavy cloak. It could be dangerous, either because of the entanglement risk or the flapping spooking your horse. Not to mention the washing problem if it's wool.
Is there a video of you making the talma or a pattern?
No video unfortunately, but the pattern I used is from The Victorian Dressmaker 2 by Prior Attire 😊 a lot of great gridded patterns in there.
It's not perfectly clean, the seams aren't all perfectly straight, some parts aren't lined up perfectly, you should have stiffened the collar before sewing it on; but this makes it so charming. And it's encouraging, it makes me believe that I could do something like this as well and it doesn't hav to be perfect to be great.
Wanting to make things perfect is often what keeps me from attempting them in the first place. This is encouraging
Эх, у меня уже раскроенный и сметанный лежит, ждёт своего часа, но я срочно шью бальное платье🤣
Идея с пряжкой просто шикарная, и смотрится очень красиво
Бальное платье наверно очень красивое получится 😊
Большое спасибо! Мне тоже очень нравится как получилась пряжка 💕
Спасибо, стараюсь😉
Are u wearing a crinoline?
No crinoline in this video! Not even any padding at the hips actually. I'm just wearing a cartridge pleated petticoat underneath made from a stiff cotton, and then the cartridge pleating of the skirt gives it a lot more volume. I'm wearing a lot of bust padding so that might also have a role in making the hips look bigger. Plus the corset 😊
Niiiiice. Sell a pattern :)
Lost my mom Sunday 6th😟😔
I'm so sorry for your loss 💕
Aww thank you,it’s rough but time helps heal❤️🩹
@@emilyparker4316 It does help heal definitely. Be gentle with yourself during the grieving process 💕
@@VBirchwood awww thank you so much,it’s not easy to write obituary for one’s momma, I needed to hear that ,oxoxox 💕
Beautiful!