How to Adjust Hammer A3-41 Jointer/Planer Tables
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- čas přidán 10. 11. 2022
- This video shows how to adjust a Hammer A3-41 Combination Jointer/Planer to get the infeed and outfeed tables level and coplanar.
Check out the Felder/Hammer Owners Group, it's a great source for help and information on Felder equipment.
groups.io/g/felderownersgroup...
Preston Hoffman's Video on Hammer A3-31:
• Hammer A3-31 Calibration
Marc Spagnuolo's (The Wood Whisper) Video on setting up jointer setup:
• 118 - Jointer Setup
Webpage - mwwoodwork.com/
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My Hammer A3-26 was delivered pretty out-of-whack. I could not have gotten it dialed in without this video. Thank you so much! By the way, for anyone out there, the instructions here work great for the 26.
Glad it helped!
as an Austrian guy (where Hammer / Felder is from) its fun that you have to find an English Video on how to adjust as there is nothing proper in German :) Thanks mate!
Just a couple of points. First, I would tell anyone if they are attempting to do this join the Felders owners group. They are wealth of information on calibrating the machine especially a guy named Brian and David Best they also have a link to the A3-31 calibration procedure. Basically they walk you through what you Just filmed. Just another good perspective. Excellent video. Also as mentioned you cannot cram those locks down to keep the tables in place. Very very light finger pressure or it’s gonna throw the whole thing out again. I’m getting ready to start and I cannot tell you how helpful your video is.
Thank you! And thanks for the suggestion, I put a link to the Felder Owner's Group in the video description.
Thank you so much for this detailed explanation. I received my Hammer A3-41 two days ago and realized that the infeed table is too low on one end and called Felder to get them to send me some instructions on how to adjust the tables. To my disbelief, they didn't have any documentation - how is this possible? Your video is the only one I found on CZcams that goes into these adjustments in any detail. Great job!
Thank you! Glad to help!
Just received my Hammer a3-41 also. I watched your video several times to understand placement of adjustment screws and what they each do.
Thank you for the info, I think it will make adjustment on tables a lot easier.
Just thank you for this detailed explanation. It blows my mind that this video has such a low viewcount given the fact that the Felder service is a little desaster even here in Germany. I guess the CZcams algorithm is messed up.
Again thank you - greetings from Berlin, Germany
Thanks Robert! I lived in Berlin in when I was 21, I love the city!
First off, this is an amazing video. Especially for those of us with a Hammer jointer planer. Second, I can’t believe the low numbers of views. I’ve watched this at least 5 times as it’s packed with good setup information.
Yeah, there is the video by Preston Hoffman which gets a top hit when you search for Hammer jointer/planer setup. There’s Bents woodworking as well but neither go into the detail of your video-in my opinion. I, like you, had a machine that was out of specs.
The info about all the various table adjustment points was great none of which are really mentioned in the manual. My machine is now (hopefully) set for good.
One thing I would like to add though is that you can adjust the front table bolts with the table in the locked position. There is enough room to get two wrenches to adjust them up and down. It makes it much easier than putting a line in the bolt head and then by trial and error make the adjustment (Like I did initially). Adjusting the rear table was a snap with the loosening the bolts on the hex screw and then move it up or down as needed.
Thanks again.
Thank you very much, and thanks for the tip on being able to adjust the front bolts with the table down, that would save alot of time!
Thank you for the additional info on the back adjustments been struggling with mine with significant snipes using the jointer. Will try to redo the adjustements. The planer has always worked out great.
Edited… just read all the comments additional very awesome tips in there, thanks again.
When adjusting the latch side table adjusting bolts place a dial indicator on the top center of the bolt. This will allow you to make equal arrangements to both bolts and let you know how much movement you are getting. After making the adjustment lower the table and place a piece of .0015 feeler stock between each bolt head and the table. Now using your hand apply downward pressure on the table with one hand and with the other gently tug on either piece of feeler. This will let you know that both bolts are making simultaneous contact. If they do not contact simultaneously a twist is induced in the table when you engage the latch. You can also confirm this by attaching a dial indicator base to the top of the table and place the indicator on the cutter head. Apply downward pressure on the table and zero the indicator. Now latch the table. There should be no more than .001 movement on the indicator when the adjusting bolts are making simultaneous contact.
Yes this was def the difficult part for me getting the tables coplanar and the tension of the locking handles dialed in was a bit of a cat an mouse chase…but you gave some great tips I wish I’d read before I started! 👍🏾
I learned this the hard way few years ago, but it's great, that You prepared such a detailed instruction! This is rather a nice piece of equipment (even better with Silent Power), but it can be real pain in the ass, once it loses its alignment.
Thanks for the video! I’ve had my A3-41 for almost 7 years worked Great for 5-1/2 then out feed went haywire and I adjusted best I could but have to crank down so hard on the lever compared to feed side. Now I’m getting snip on the jointer Yes JOINTER and pieces are only 15” long. Tomorrow I will be attempting to level it all. Thanks again for great video
First rate job, much appreciated.
Thank you for your video - well done and incomparably more helpful than anything else I have found. Felder should be ashamed for not producing videos like that, you are doing their work for them... But then again may be they do not want us to know that so that we are dependent on their technicians to adjust our machines...Or am I paranoid? My machine was Ok when I got it, but over a couple of years the in-feed table front dropped significantly. I need to do some adjustments. With this it will be much easier......
Thanks Tomas, glad it helped! Yes I hate to be pessimistic, but I wondered if the poor manual and lack of videos was Felder's way of getting you to pay their technician fees.
This is such a helpful video, thank you so much! I adjusted mine for the first time today and it went really quick! After having read in an earlier comment that you can adjust the two front bolts with the table in the locked position, I found that this is also possible in the back for the makro adjustment screws (on the infeed table, didn't need to touch those on the outfeed table). Once the outfeed table was adjusted to the planer head, I clamped two straight edges to the outfeed table and adjusted the infeed table in ca. 40min.
Time will tell how good of a job I did, but for the moment I'm really happy. Thanks for the video, it took a lot of stress out of this task!
Awesome! So glad this helped you!
Omg thank you soo so much for sharing this Ive been trying to get mine adjusted since I got it and needed this video thank you!!
I'm glad the video helped you!
Call Fellder tech support and they will walk you adjusting your machine. They spent several hours on and off throughout the day assisting in tuning in my machine.
@@johnhupp8444 Thank you…I did (lol they were a big help but the guy def fell asleep on me like 5 times while I was trying to get it adjusted but he would answer after I said hellllooo a few times lol) but I’m more a visual learner than auditory so this kinda helped a bit more than the call I had…once I knew the points of adjustment I just had to slow play until everything was aligned and coplanar
Miles, great video. I have been on the phone with Felder Tech Support for the past two days; yes two days. I have adjusted the jointer table front to back on the outfeed side and have the height set in reference to the cutter block. My problem is at the infeed side is kicked up on the wing end such that when laying a straight edge across the outfeed and infeed tables I have a .030" gap at the cutter block (a smiley face). I have lowered the castle nut on the wing end of the infeed table so that nothing is limiting the table other than the macro adjustment on the hinge.
Would you suggest lowering the macro adjustment on the hinge side? The small hex nut. I have tried this before and have had some luck but I lowered the table to much and had a large gap on the wing side. Does the wing side macro adjustment raise and lower the wing parallel. I ask because I continue to struggle with getting the infeed wing below the cutter head closest to the hinge.
have you messed with the planer adjustments? Mine has serious snipe I cannot get rid of. Felder sent me the specs to adjust it but that did not even help.
Fortunately for me, I haven’t had too. There’s a link in the description to Preston Hoffman’s video where he goes more in depth on adjusting the planer bed. Good luck!
Felder U.K. sent me a £550 quote for an engineer to set up my machine after it was moved. I think the lack of set up info is deliberate. This is my first and last hammer machine.
I still think they’re good machines, but I agree the documentation seems to be purposefully lacking.
@@mwwoodworks3992mines a 2014 and has been spot on. Going through the complex and frustrating set up every time it moves is going to get frustrating fast especially as I’m doing a lot of work on the shop so it will need to move atleast twice more before it gets back into its permanent home. My previous machine would stay no matter how often it was moved. The set up let’s down a good machine
@@whitacrebespokeagreed I wouldn’t like to have to move this very often. I unpacked mine from the pallet using an engine hoist I rented. While I felt this was safer than using a pallet jack it probably is harder on the alignment.
The first order of business is to use a precision straight edge.
There’s a big difference between a straight edge used for rough setting of tablesaw wings and plywood outfeed tables.
I have 3 lee valley straight edges one groz precision and a suburban tools precision straight edge.
The lee valley isn’t good enough.
Chasing that last 2 or 3 thousand out of jointer tables isn’t going to happen with common house straight edges.
Maybe you’ll get lucky but I think not.
Not sure I get it. The Groz straight edge does not even have their tolerance listed. Suburban straight edge goes from $400-$1000. Tolerance of .0005/1 foot. 48 inch straight edge then has a tolerance of.002. The Lee valley has a tolerance of .003. Pretty sure they don’t make the 48 inch anymore but Tay tool does an advertises a similar spec. You can get absolutely crazy chasing this. The comments in any joiner discussion would already say we’re nuts to even be using a Lee valley just use a decent level. Which I totally disagree with. I think the Lee valley is fine along with similar straight edge tools.
@dublinf4477 I thought the same way until I had to setup jointer beds that were long and nearly dead flat.
When I received my suburban tool precision tool I compared it to lee valley. I found those numbers you mentioned to be awful. I wonder what the factory techs use.
Inspection equipment is expensive take advice from content creators that want to appease viewers you get what you get.
Oh man. So wish you hadn’t told me that. Now I have to race out and check my tools 😢. Hopefully I’ll get lucky. Either way this guys video is spot on
@dublinf4477 Don't even worry about if your getting flat boards with straight edges.
Good luck
I tried to use a construction level at first, but you're right they're not accurate enough. The Lee Valley (Veritas) worked great for me. I think for a lot of us chasing those last couple of thousand's isn't necessary. Between wood movement and our skill level we'll never know the difference. 😂
I really wanted one of these. I've been doing a lot of research on it and found that the tables are not very flat and a bitch to adjust. For the money the quality in design just isn't there. This looks like a problem you will become very familiar with and in time get good at. I don't want to build that skill. I'm now looking into independent machines. More money but less trouble.