It's so nice to have this page, I have a nearly identical truck and whenever I'm curious about something I just come to this dudes channel and it never fails .
I dont own a Ford pickup let alone a diesel but I like watching this videos and you draw me in as I watch you do this stuff. I'm happy I stumbled across your channel.
great video. If I may, when tapping pipe threads a rule of thumb to know when the threads are deep enough is to stop when you can turn the fitting in three turns by hand. Then of course tighten the rest of the way with a wrench. E
Haha thanks, unfortunately there's not really much I can do about genetics! But a big truck that'll do everything I need it to, that's something I can manage.
Barack Obama, if you just want to detect boost leaks, there are cheaper and easier options out there. If your truck is a late enough 96 year model, I assume it has an OBD 2 port. If so you can use a scan gauge 2, at the very least it's easier to setup. I've got a video on that too: czcams.com/video/iRxQH6_i3Ls/video.html The only downside to the scan gauge is that it used the engine MAP sensor, so if that sensor is bad, or you're running a 'boost fooler' then it won't give you an accurate reading. I've been happy with my Glow Shift gauge, for the price it's unbeatable. It looks like they also sell just boost gauges for only ~$43. Another low cost brand I've looked into is Hewitt Gauges. I believe they make primarily aircraft grade gauges, so they are held to a high standard. You can get a boost gauge from them for not too much more than the Glow Shift. On another note, assuming your truck is stock, there's really not many places a boost leak would form. Check the intake Y boots from the turbo to they cylinder heads. The boots are silicone which isn't the best for oil resistance, and as with anything they wear out eventually too. Also there's an O-ring from the turbo leading to the turbo y pipe that is susceptible to leaking too. There's also a less likely candidate, the intake plenums. Those are the black, sheet metal looking intake manifolds that connect directly to the cylinder heads. They have an RTV style gasket on them that can also go out, but this is less common from my understanding. That's pretty much it in terms of post turbo leaks. The only other 'boost' leak places would be in the exhaust side. There's a couple of 'donut' style gaskets from the exhaust manifolds leading to the turbo (turbo up pipes) that also commonly leak. A lot of folks will upgrade the 'donut' style up pipes to a 'bellowed' up pipe to fix this common weak link, but that requires turbo removal and is quite involved. Best of luck!
I like it, it's still holding up strong for me. It's cost effective and a nice all in 1 gauge so you don't have to have an entire pillar of gauges blocking your view of the road.
Man you put out some good videos on these obs trucks. I have the same exact truck just a manual and the grey interior, even have the same brand toolbox lol. I'd like a good gauge set to watch my egts, coolant temp, and boost while pulling our camper and dump trailer. Is this one still holding up good and can I run a sensor for my coolant instead of trans like you did?
That's awesome! I do envy your manual transmission though. So far the Gauge is still holding up fine for me. You probably could get the exact same gauge as me and run the temperature probe in the coolant, though I imagine glow-shift makes a 3 in 1 that is designed to do what you want. That way you don't have to worry about your coolant temperature being called TRANS. Just for the cleaner look if anything
Rnddiesel thanks for the reply back man! Yeah it took me a good couple years to find the truck I wanted lol. Might be a stupid question but where does the probe go to read the coolant temp? Is there a plug in the rad like there was in your trans for the probe?
@@drewgordon3521 I don't know exactly where the best place to put it would be, good point. I don't believe there's a plug in the radiator, though you may be able to adapt the drain plug. Another option could be the drain plugs in the block. Getting coolant temperature closest to the block would give you a more accurate representation of the peak value I'd think. The drain plugs should be on either side of the block. Either that or you could find the temperature sending unit to the dash gauges and tee into that fitting.
Rnddiesel I’ll have to do some looking on my truck when it gets a little warmer lol. I really appreciate the replies man! Don’t get that very often on older videos I really appreciate it!
How come on the glow shift video for the install of the boost gauge he put the tee in the map sensor Line, like you did but then he removed the warm air heater from h the manifold and put in a boost adaptor fitting and hooked it up to that ?
It sounds like you're talking about 2 different methods for different trucks. Old body style 7.3 Powerstrokes didn't have an air intake heater - 97 and before, but the newer Super Duty trucks did. I suppose you can put a boost pressure gauge in the y-pipe on the Super Duty in place of the air intake heater.
Hey I bought the same kit for my truck which is the same same year and model as yours with the 7.3 and I can’t get it to stay the same color and I used the same fuse spots as yours what do u think it is
Sweet, well the whole setup has been working well for me for the past 5 months or so now. You should be able to just click through with the button, leave it and it'll stay that color. Is it shutting off on its own and causing the color change? If so definitely double check the ground, mine original ground only lasted about a week, then I redid it using a pair or wire crimpers instead of pliers, and it's held up since. The other thing I can think of is to double check your power wires, your constant 12v on source might actually be a key on only power source. If you can, double check it with a test light. I don't remember which wire it is, but at least one should have power unless you disconnect the battery. Best of luck!
You can, however it is not recommended to do. You'd likely have to add a bung to help hold it in place since the pipe is much thinner and wouldn't be able to take many threads. Also, and a bigger reason why you shouldn't: If you're measuring EGT in the downpipe, you're measuring it after the turbo. Basically you get an inaccurate reading that can be a few hundred degrees lower than the actual peak EGT's. The turbo uses the hot exhaust gas to work and reduced the temperature in the process. So while you may be only measuring 900*F EGT's in the downpipe, you may actually be pushing 1300*F pre-turbo (for example). The best place to put the probe is in the pre-turbo exhaust. I put mine in the manifold, and after a year, it's still holding up great!
After about a year, they still work great! They are a little bright at times and the wiring is very thin so I had to solder a lot of connections, but I've got no complaints!
I have no idea! They were on the truck when I bought it a couple years ago, and if I had to guess they're probably just an autozone special. They don't really fit the greatest in the world anyway.
I tapped into my map line with an adapter just like you did but it’s not reading it’s still I at 0? Any clue as to why ? Same obs mines 97.5 f250 7.3 hd 4x4
Unless the sensor is defective, you hooked it up wrong, or your map sensor hose has a break in it, I have no idea what else it could be. You may want to grab a multimeter and see if the sensor has high resistance which may indicate a failed sensor. You can also look up the resistance value that it should read under atmospheric pressure. Best of luck!
I think you were a little over full on trans fluid. But other than that great videos I just subscribed. Looking forward to checking out the other videos.
It still works great for me, haven't had any issues that weren't my fault. I had a ground wire come disconnected after a couple months, but again that was totally my dumb mistake of not crimping the ground wire properly...
The gauge cost me around $160 not including the small amount of wiring I had to add. Other than that its still working fine for me now. I haven't had any issues thankfully
I had wondered the same thing. Right now in terms of longevity, I think it's too early to tell. I've only had them in for a couple of weeks. They are pretty much the lowest cost gauges out there. The wiring is pretty thin, and I think that's part of why they're cheap. The power harness was definitely way to short and needed to be extended. The gauge lines for the trans temp and boost were a little short and could've been longer. However the gauge itself seems to be pretty good quality, it feels like a nice heavy piece, not flimsy or anything. I was actually rather impressed with the actual gauge despite being low cost. Furthermore, the instructions on installation were basically nonexistent. There really was just a general wiring diagram, but I guess it works and Glowshift has some other videos out there as well. So far its still a bit too early to tell, but they seem to be pretty good so far!
I had wondered the same thing. Right now in terms of longevity, I think it's too early to tell. I've only had them in for a couple of weeks. They are pretty much the lowest cost gauges out there. The wiring is pretty thin, and I think that's part of why they're cheap. The power harness was definitely way to short and needed to be extended. The gauge lines for the trans temp and boost were a little short and could've been longer. However the gauge itself seems to be pretty good quality, it feels like a nice heavy piece, not flimsy or anything. I was actually rather impressed with the actual gauge despite being low cost. Furthermore, the instructions on installation were basically nonexistent. There really was just a general wiring diagram, but I guess it works and Glowshift has some other videos out there as well. So far its still a bit too early to tell, but they seem to be pretty good so far!
Why not just pull the cluster out for 5 min and run the wire behind/hidden and use the orange wire off the radio harness? Seems so easy compared to putting conduit up the door frame. Can put a 1/4-3/8 hole in the dash in a convenient spot and mount gauge.
@@tjlqk3 Probably the only complaints I have are that the wires are a bit thin which makes crimping for installation a little challenging. You'll definitely need to extend the wires. The gauge is a bit bright, but wiring in the dimming function helps a lot with that. I do wish there was a way it could measure fuel pressure rather than boost pressure without the naming being off. There are only so many x3 gauge combos they offer, so that's a downside. Otherwise I'd totally go for it again. Just make sure to make a good ground wire, protect the wiring as well, and you should be good. It really comes down to looks between the Issopro and GlowShift I guess!
It's so nice to have this page, I have a nearly identical truck and whenever I'm curious about something I just come to this dudes channel and it never fails .
Bro you get the best angles on installation thank you!
Nice job man, always enjoy your videos.
Man I'm so glad I found this... exactly what I needed. Thank you
Very good video, very detailed and one of the better videos I’ve seen. Keep up the good work your channel was very useful and informative
Thank you for your valuable information. I'm looking forward to do this upgrade to my own OBS power stroke.
I dont own a Ford pickup let alone a diesel but I like watching this videos and you draw me in as I watch you do this stuff. I'm happy I stumbled across your channel.
Amazing video, just ordered these for 2 trucks
Excellent job explaining everything.
great video. If I may, when tapping pipe threads a rule of thumb to know when the threads are deep enough is to stop when you can turn the fitting in three turns by hand. Then of course tighten the rest of the way with a wrench. E
Definitely one of the best channels anyone with an OBS 7.3 could subscribe to.
You're too kind, thank you!
I appreciate your channel
His drill work is osha certified
you make good videos though! it flows nicely. keep up the good work.
Haha thanks, unfortunately there's not really much I can do about genetics! But a big truck that'll do everything I need it to, that's something I can manage.
im planning on doing a very very cheap guage job on my truck. its a 1996 f-superduty(f450) only reason i want a boost guage is to detect leaks.
Barack Obama, if you just want to detect boost leaks, there are cheaper and easier options out there. If your truck is a late enough 96 year model, I assume it has an OBD 2 port. If so you can use a scan gauge 2, at the very least it's easier to setup. I've got a video on that too: czcams.com/video/iRxQH6_i3Ls/video.html The only downside to the scan gauge is that it used the engine MAP sensor, so if that sensor is bad, or you're running a 'boost fooler' then it won't give you an accurate reading. I've been happy with my Glow Shift gauge, for the price it's unbeatable. It looks like they also sell just boost gauges for only ~$43. Another low cost brand I've looked into is Hewitt Gauges. I believe they make primarily aircraft grade gauges, so they are held to a high standard. You can get a boost gauge from them for not too much more than the Glow Shift.
On another note, assuming your truck is stock, there's really not many places a boost leak would form. Check the intake Y boots from the turbo to they cylinder heads. The boots are silicone which isn't the best for oil resistance, and as with anything they wear out eventually too. Also there's an O-ring from the turbo leading to the turbo y pipe that is susceptible to leaking too. There's also a less likely candidate, the intake plenums. Those are the black, sheet metal looking intake manifolds that connect directly to the cylinder heads. They have an RTV style gasket on them that can also go out, but this is less common from my understanding. That's pretty much it in terms of post turbo leaks. The only other 'boost' leak places would be in the exhaust side. There's a couple of 'donut' style gaskets from the exhaust manifolds leading to the turbo (turbo up pipes) that also commonly leak. A lot of folks will upgrade the 'donut' style up pipes to a 'bellowed' up pipe to fix this common weak link, but that requires turbo removal and is quite involved. Best of luck!
Good video. New sub
How you like this gauge im considering getting one good video very well explained
I like it, it's still holding up strong for me. It's cost effective and a nice all in 1 gauge so you don't have to have an entire pillar of gauges blocking your view of the road.
Man you put out some good videos on these obs trucks. I have the same exact truck just a manual and the grey interior, even have the same brand toolbox lol. I'd like a good gauge set to watch my egts, coolant temp, and boost while pulling our camper and dump trailer. Is this one still holding up good and can I run a sensor for my coolant instead of trans like you did?
That's awesome! I do envy your manual transmission though. So far the Gauge is still holding up fine for me. You probably could get the exact same gauge as me and run the temperature probe in the coolant, though I imagine glow-shift makes a 3 in 1 that is designed to do what you want. That way you don't have to worry about your coolant temperature being called TRANS. Just for the cleaner look if anything
Rnddiesel thanks for the reply back man! Yeah it took me a good couple years to find the truck I wanted lol. Might be a stupid question but where does the probe go to read the coolant temp? Is there a plug in the rad like there was in your trans for the probe?
@@drewgordon3521 I don't know exactly where the best place to put it would be, good point. I don't believe there's a plug in the radiator, though you may be able to adapt the drain plug. Another option could be the drain plugs in the block. Getting coolant temperature closest to the block would give you a more accurate representation of the peak value I'd think. The drain plugs should be on either side of the block. Either that or you could find the temperature sending unit to the dash gauges and tee into that fitting.
Rnddiesel I’ll have to do some looking on my truck when it gets a little warmer lol. I really appreciate the replies man! Don’t get that very often on older videos I really appreciate it!
How come on the glow shift video for the install of the boost gauge he put the tee in the map sensor Line, like you did but then he removed the warm air heater from h the manifold and put in a boost adaptor fitting and hooked it up to that ?
It sounds like you're talking about 2 different methods for different trucks. Old body style 7.3 Powerstrokes didn't have an air intake heater - 97 and before, but the newer Super Duty trucks did. I suppose you can put a boost pressure gauge in the y-pipe on the Super Duty in place of the air intake heater.
What amount of boost do you hit? Mine only gets about 10 psi at full tilt
Hey I bought the same kit for my truck which is the same same year and model as yours with the 7.3 and I can’t get it to stay the same color and I used the same fuse spots as yours what do u think it is
Sweet, well the whole setup has been working well for me for the past 5 months or so now. You should be able to just click through with the button, leave it and it'll stay that color. Is it shutting off on its own and causing the color change? If so definitely double check the ground, mine original ground only lasted about a week, then I redid it using a pair or wire crimpers instead of pliers, and it's held up since. The other thing I can think of is to double check your power wires, your constant 12v on source might actually be a key on only power source. If you can, double check it with a test light. I don't remember which wire it is, but at least one should have power unless you disconnect the battery. Best of luck!
What size thread transmission sensor is that, will Autometer gauges work
Shoulda put some type of rubber on that hole you drillled over time it will cut the wires
What kind of trans temp does your truck normally run at
For the egt probe can I drill in my down pipe ?
You can, however it is not recommended to do. You'd likely have to add a bung to help hold it in place since the pipe is much thinner and wouldn't be able to take many threads. Also, and a bigger reason why you shouldn't: If you're measuring EGT in the downpipe, you're measuring it after the turbo. Basically you get an inaccurate reading that can be a few hundred degrees lower than the actual peak EGT's. The turbo uses the hot exhaust gas to work and reduced the temperature in the process. So while you may be only measuring 900*F EGT's in the downpipe, you may actually be pushing 1300*F pre-turbo (for example). The best place to put the probe is in the pre-turbo exhaust. I put mine in the manifold, and after a year, it's still holding up great!
How are the gauges holding up?
After about a year, they still work great! They are a little bright at times and the wiring is very thin so I had to solder a lot of connections, but I've got no complaints!
What seat covers do you have
I have no idea! They were on the truck when I bought it a couple years ago, and if I had to guess they're probably just an autozone special. They don't really fit the greatest in the world anyway.
I tapped into my map line with an adapter just like you did but it’s not reading it’s still I at 0? Any clue as to why ? Same obs mines 97.5 f250 7.3 hd 4x4
Unless the sensor is defective, you hooked it up wrong, or your map sensor hose has a break in it, I have no idea what else it could be. You may want to grab a multimeter and see if the sensor has high resistance which may indicate a failed sensor. You can also look up the resistance value that it should read under atmospheric pressure. Best of luck!
Rnddiesel false alarm, thought I could build pressure in park took it for a spin and it’s working great! Such a good tutorial
Thank you!
@@tcyourkidding1355 Haha, good one! Yeah you've got to load the engine to make any real boost, glad to hear it works!
I think you were a little over full on trans fluid. But other than that great videos I just subscribed. Looking forward to checking out the other videos.
Is that plug compatible with a 1/8 NTP plug?
I believe so 1/8 npt, that's a very common size for most sensors too.
So a little after a year how is this gauge doing?
It still works great for me, haven't had any issues that weren't my fault. I had a ground wire come disconnected after a couple months, but again that was totally my dumb mistake of not crimping the ground wire properly...
Can you post a link of the same kit you purchased?
Rollcountry yeah sure thing!
www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-black-face-egt-w-digital-boost-temp-gauge/?gclid=CjwKCAjwhqXbBRAREiwAucoo-_9OnOeB7PFcJz78x32AxSBnESHsbz_jOGLmrjWjfbrZHHhNT250zBoCZTEQAvD_BwE
What was the cost and how has it held up
The gauge cost me around $160 not including the small amount of wiring I had to add. Other than that its still working fine for me now. I haven't had any issues thankfully
are glow shift gauges a good brand
I had wondered the same thing. Right now in terms of longevity, I think it's too early to tell. I've only had them in for a couple of weeks. They are pretty much the lowest cost gauges out there. The wiring is pretty thin, and I think that's part of why they're cheap. The power harness was definitely way to short and needed to be extended. The gauge lines for the trans temp and boost were a little short and could've been longer. However the gauge itself seems to be pretty good quality, it feels like a nice heavy piece, not flimsy or anything. I was actually rather impressed with the actual gauge despite being low cost. Furthermore, the instructions on installation were basically nonexistent. There really was just a general wiring diagram, but I guess it works and Glowshift has some other videos out there as well.
So far its still a bit too early to tell, but they seem to be pretty good so far!
I had wondered the same thing. Right now in terms of longevity, I think it's too early to tell. I've only had them in for a couple of weeks. They are pretty much the lowest cost gauges out there. The wiring is pretty thin, and I think that's part of why they're cheap. The power harness was definitely way to short and needed to be extended. The gauge lines for the trans temp and boost were a little short and could've been longer. However the gauge itself seems to be pretty good quality, it feels like a nice heavy piece, not flimsy or anything. I was actually rather impressed with the actual gauge despite being low cost. Furthermore, the instructions on installation were basically nonexistent. There really was just a general wiring diagram, but I guess it works and Glowshift has some other videos out there as well.
So far its still a bit too early to tell, but they seem to be pretty good so far!
Why not just pull the cluster out for 5 min and run the wire behind/hidden and use the orange wire off the radio harness? Seems so easy compared to putting conduit up the door frame. Can put a 1/4-3/8 hole in the dash in a convenient spot and mount gauge.
Yeah there's probably a better way to mount the gauge. This is just what I came up with and it works just fine!
Is the gauge still working?
Yeah it sure is!
@@Rnddiesel any complaints? I’m torn between this and the much higher IssPro ones
@@tjlqk3 Probably the only complaints I have are that the wires are a bit thin which makes crimping for installation a little challenging. You'll definitely need to extend the wires. The gauge is a bit bright, but wiring in the dimming function helps a lot with that. I do wish there was a way it could measure fuel pressure rather than boost pressure without the naming being off. There are only so many x3 gauge combos they offer, so that's a downside. Otherwise I'd totally go for it again. Just make sure to make a good ground wire, protect the wiring as well, and you should be good. It really comes down to looks between the Issopro and GlowShift I guess!
What air filter are you running in this video?
I'm running a Donaldson Blue 6637. Supposedly it's less restrictive than the normal 6637, yet filters better and is more water resistant.
that's one tiny little guy right there no wonder his truck is so big jkjk
what size port is on boost fitting? for sensor
The boost fitting is just 1/8 npt, all the sensors are that same size. That's the same size as the ICP and back pressure sensors too.
thankyou!