U-joints should operate at a minimum of 1 degree. This is to facilitate the needle bearings rotating within the cups and prevent them wearing prematurely.
I wondered if my comment was really necessary. My comment is really an intangible. Here goes. After watching many other shows on the internet, I found you pleasant to listen to. Your diction was adequately functional. So many other people are difficult to understand! You sir, are very easy to understand! I never once had to rewind any of your video to understand anything you said! Good job!
I like to set all my u joints at a minimum of a 1/2 degree angle so the needle bearings in the caps have to move slightly. this will help the grease get to all the needle bearings. li try to stay under 3 degrees on my joints. that pinion angle will decrease once you put a bed on the truck as well. i prefer a greaseable u joint. obviously the sealed units work well. gm, ford and chrysler have been using them for decades.
Waldo, nice video! Remember, with a leaf spring rear suspension, your pinion angle will change throughout the cycling of the suspension (including when you add the weight of a truck bed, not to mention the weight of cargo or trailer). This is going to change your previously measured u-joint angles. They will no longer be equal and opposite to one another. Most likely this will not be a problem or cause vibration. But, it's just an observation that in the real world, it's almost impossible to get the angles perfect.
In the future, don’t Bang the cap back in with a hammer, I use a nut and the vice to smoothly and carefully place it into the driveshaft By placing the nut in the center of the cap and drawing it in while turning the vise closed. Smacking it with a hammer can result in losing the needle bearings. I usually smear some synthetic grease in each of the caps to ensure that the needle bearings stay in place. I never heard any nonsense about placing the caps back in their original spot due to grease.
Great Job Waldo!!! Just remember to retorque the rear U-Bolts after you start driving. They have a nasty habit of loosening. The driveshaft went super easy. I enjoyed this a lot!!
I always use greaseable U-joints. There are adaptors for your grease gun that have a smaller diameter head that make it easy to access the zerk. When possible I use greaseable everything, ball joints, tie rod ends ect. I find that they last longer... if you grease them.
Because they are not constant velocity they will have velocity change through angular operation, the key is to work out positive and negative angles on both planes and adjust to cancel out total sum through 3 positions a lot of people forget the horizontal plane alignment and totals, for example you can have 1.5 deg each for first two then rear one should be 3.0 deg in vertical plane to cancel out, the check in horizontal plane for lateral alignment
Nice job on figuring out the proper angles that’s the way to do it when I worked in the shop if we did spring work we always got the customer to come backAnd we would re-tighten the bolts you’d be amazed at how much you can re-tighten them they must stretch
I forget but I believe universal joints are not meant to be at zero degrees. There are two reasons for this, one I think is vibration but the other important one is wear. If the joints are not moving relative to each other the bearing needles will not get lubricated and eventually the force of load and vibration will cause them to fail faster than moving joints would. The minimum is two or three degrees from what I recall.
Driveline angles if not correct will destroy Transmission synchronizers. I actually went to school for this. And I got a piece of paper that says I know something. What I have no idea.😆. Love your video's. I have 2000, 1995, 1989 chevy . 3500HD and 89 2500 with 6.2 2000 has 6.5 not sure what I'm gonna do. Make 10 wheeler? 66 years old. As a young guy for you you impress me, very much so.
Looks great. I hope you will revisit the angles of your drive line u-joints, especially the first one behind the transmission before damage occurs. Spicer has a nice publication on drive line geometry. You where close but no cigar LOL
Truck is looking great! Be careful placing your hand between the impact and the floor. When I was about 15 years old i smashed my hand between the impact and the concrete floor doing exactly what you were doing. It was very painful I don’t want to see anyone else make the same mistake I did. Can’t wait to see the HD complete!
Great film Waldo ! I'm going to apply your drive shaft angle theory to my project at the moment , mounting prototype V8 triumph with transmission in an old commer van should be fun if nothing else ! Can't wait for your next episode see if it all works it's bound too Waldo did it !
You can also put on both caps and use the vise to squeeze them in and then you can use a socket to finish the install. Love the video's keep up the good work and god bless and stay safe.
As a grand master technician for 48 years, I would have liked to see the spacer for the center bearing support made out of solid bar or at least with tubular spacers for the bolts. The torque exhibited is quite substantial under heavy loads. That's why the original bracket is engineered so robust. Next time level the frame & then measure the angles with a Starrett angle gauge & your driveshaft will be "spot on" rather than "close enough". Other than that nice job. (A u-joint press would have done a better job with less pounding on hardened bearing caps. They will shatter.).
I always enjoy watching these videos. A good learning tool . Let me share some experience with drive shafts . I worked at a power plant for over 30 years and on the cooling towers there is a large electric motor that drives a gear box through drive shafts . Initially they were two shafts that were stainless steel and a center support bearing . Those things failed regularly and that resulted in damaged to the fan blades . Sometimes total loss . In fact Sometimes they through a blade off into another cell lol. Total carnage. The fix was in the case a one piece I think fiber glass or some kind of man made material. Failure stopped in that area . At any rate when I did the g56 conversion I went with a one piece aluminum drive shaft. Works OK. I remember years ago when I was a kid out of tech school I worked for gm and they have drive line class that explained so of the material you spoke about . Lots of learning experiences over the years on drive shafts . I heard of guys balancing there drive shafts with worm clamps . Lot of trial and error there lol
I'd love a c3500HD, just that in Montana we need that "K". Also 4 doors for the family to ride along lol my 93 K3500 Crew SRW will do, just planning for a spare 6.2 diesel to be machined and then I'll put it in. Current 6.5 smokes. 50k miles on the retired fire chief truck and previous owners ran it out of oil so they had someone throw a junkyard 6.5 back in, welp... here I am replacing it with a nice 6.2. lol Nice vids, keeps the creative mind going on my own projects!
You never use a 0 degrees. the u-joint needs to move to keep from bearing rollers from embedding. The engine should be the same as the rear end. 3 degrees is the most you can have in the shafts angle. Even if you have to lower the engine.
The snap rings pack may include multiple thickness rings. Purists say use a dial indicator to measure the joint play and use the right size snap ring to adjust the play. I think most people go by feel 😉
Another great video, Waldo. I have a similar 3/4” impact, and when trying to undo the nuts on my u-bolts, I found I had to upsize my airline from 3/8 to 1/2 to get full torque from the impact. Now, put some paint on that hanger bearing spacer. Haha
Not gonna tell you how to do your job, think it turned out great! However I would have welded some sockets or pipe (if I could find it small enough) in where you made the spacer, and use some grade 8 bolts to go right through it. Just a thought!
Or you could order a one piece aluminum driveshaft from Driveshaft Specialist (San Antonia, TX) and never have to fool with that bearing again! That's what I did with my 2003 long bed RAM.
Every once in a while I forget that at this point in the build there’s no bed (I went back and started at the beginning) and I get confused when there are shots like the one showing the diff from the top 😂
you put on a information packed show my friend ! I'm curious if you would share how you obtain the information you share , specifically the drive shaft angles ?I'm getting to be an old dog but I always like to learn new things. thanks !!
A lot of the information came from wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint. There's also a torsional analysis calculator that's pretty useful: spicerparts.com/calculators/torsional-analysis-calculator
Question/observation: Your 5 degree angle that is causing concern should become quite a bit less when you put weight on the rear of the truck compressing the rear suspension effectively raising the rear end relative to the frame. If this is to be a heavy towing truck that will spend much of its life with a trailer would it not be better to have a little angle in that drive shaft when it is unloaded?
You might be right about that. I'll have to measure the angles again once I build a flatbed for it. That'll probably add at least 1,000 lbs to the back
Adjusting driveshaft and pinion angles with no weight on the rear end is a mistake because they'll change again when weight is applied. You don't even have a truckbed installed so obviously weight will be applied, to say nothing of trailer tongue weight or payload.
They do make one (it's a Dana 80), and I was seriously thinking about buying it! I ended up getting an Eaton Detroit TrueTrac, which is a Torsen style LSD. I'll be installing it and re-gearing the rear diff in a future video
8:45 XDXD, I weigh like 300ish and I did the same thing until I couldnt pull anymore, I was bending the U bolts so I thought I was about to break them (they are grade 8)
woldo you neep to be sure the working angle of each joint is 1.5 max to .5 minumn not so much the joint angle to compute working angle one joint angle to the other and subtract same result is working angle the crosses need .5 min to 1.5 max so needles will rotate around crosses.
I find that everything goes easier when I use"CRC Knocker Loose" penetrating oil before disassembly and I always slather anti-seize compound on all threads before replacement. What happened to the disk guard that came on that angle grinder? The sparks (burning iron) will eat holes in your clothing. (did the dog eat it?) Ron W4BIN
Yeah, I didn't try off-the-shelf engine mounts, but I don't think they would have worked well. I certainly wouldn't have been able to fit the mechanical radiator fan!
GVWR is 15,000 lbs, though I don't know how much the truck weighs yet, so I don't know the payload capacity 🤷♂️. I'll definitely weigh it once I build a flatbed for it
![Installing a Custom Interior for my Cummins-Swapped GMC Project Truck [Part 19]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/efK0aXovbFU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Installing a Custom Interior for my Cummins-Swapped GMC Project Truck [Part 19]](/img/tr.png)
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I hear blue Like buttons have better low end torque. Scroll up and swap that gray Like button for a blue one!
U-joints should operate at a minimum of 1 degree. This is to facilitate the needle bearings rotating within the cups and prevent them wearing prematurely.
I agree, I took a driveshaft class at Dana and u-joints should never be at degrees
0 degrees
I wondered if my comment was really necessary. My comment is really an intangible. Here goes. After watching many other shows on the internet, I found you pleasant to listen to. Your diction was adequately functional. So many other people are difficult to understand! You sir, are very easy to understand! I never once had to rewind any of your video to understand anything you said! Good job!
Waldo for a computer geek you have an amazingly brilliant mechanical mind and talent.
Well thanks, Larry! 😎
I like to set all my u joints at a minimum of a 1/2 degree angle so the needle bearings in the caps have to move slightly. this will help the grease get to all the needle bearings. li try to stay under 3 degrees on my joints. that pinion angle will decrease once you put a bed on the truck as well. i prefer a greaseable u joint. obviously the sealed units work well. gm, ford and chrysler have been using them for decades.
Yeah, I'm definitely going to want to re-measure it once it has more weight on the back and possibly make adjustments 👌
I was also going to comment that UJs need exercise and 0deg will lead to sticking.
I prefer greaseable joints too. I like a bit more angle but a 1/2° works fine.
Waldo, nice video! Remember, with a leaf spring rear suspension, your pinion angle will change throughout the cycling of the suspension (including when you add the weight of a truck bed, not to mention the weight of cargo or trailer). This is going to change your previously measured u-joint angles. They will no longer be equal and opposite to one another. Most likely this will not be a problem or cause vibration. But, it's just an observation that in the real world, it's almost impossible to get the angles perfect.
Thanks! Yeah, once I build a flatbed, I can re-measure and change out the shims if necessary 👌
Just watching the video now and was immediately struck with the same thought. As there’s no load on the rear the angle will of course be out of spec.
I just binged watch the whole Cummins swap playlist.... Waldo you are a genius
In the future, don’t Bang the cap back in with a hammer, I use a nut and the vice to smoothly and carefully place it into the driveshaft By placing the nut in the center of the cap and drawing it in while turning the vise closed. Smacking it with a hammer can result in losing the needle bearings. I usually smear some synthetic grease in each of the caps to ensure that the needle bearings stay in place. I never heard any nonsense about placing the caps back in their original spot due to grease.
Great Job Waldo!!! Just remember to retorque the rear U-Bolts after you start driving. They have a nasty habit of loosening.
The driveshaft went super easy. I enjoyed this a lot!!
Thanks, Pete! I'll be sure to tighten them back up 👍
I always use greaseable U-joints. There are adaptors for your grease gun that have a smaller diameter head that make it easy to access the zerk. When possible I use greaseable everything, ball joints, tie rod ends ect. I find that they last longer... if you grease them.
Because they are not constant velocity they will have velocity change through angular operation, the key is to work out positive and negative angles on both planes and adjust to cancel out total sum through 3 positions a lot of people forget the horizontal plane alignment and totals, for example you can have 1.5 deg each for first two then rear one should be 3.0 deg in vertical plane to cancel out, the check in horizontal plane for lateral alignment
Love your drawing!! Totally simplifies a complex angle scenario!
I dont even need to verbally click, my shoulder just clickes by itself.
Oh man 😂
Nice job on figuring out the proper angles that’s the way to do it when I worked in the shop if we did spring work we always got the customer to come backAnd we would re-tighten the bolts you’d be amazed at how much you can re-tighten them they must stretch
Thank you! Yeah, I have to be sure to tighten them again after 500 miles or so 👍
I forget but I believe universal joints are not meant to be at zero degrees.
There are two reasons for this, one I think is vibration but the other important one is wear.
If the joints are not moving relative to each other the bearing needles will not get lubricated and eventually the force of load and vibration will cause them to fail faster than moving joints would.
The minimum is two or three degrees from what I recall.
Good work Waldo ! Warming up here in cactus country, 99 on Easter sunday. A little warm , but no rust ! 🌵
Thanks, Scott! I don't envy the heat, but I do envy the salt-free roads 😬
Well done Waldo very interesting!!
Many thanks! 🤠
Driveline angles if not correct will destroy Transmission synchronizers. I actually went to school for this. And I got a piece of paper that says I know something. What I have no idea.😆. Love your video's. I have 2000, 1995, 1989 chevy . 3500HD and 89 2500 with 6.2 2000 has 6.5 not sure what I'm gonna do. Make 10 wheeler? 66 years old.
As a young guy for you you impress me, very much so.
Its been a while since we check progress. Very good Waldo. I learned a lot.
Thanks, glad to hear it!
You really make this stuff look easy
Looks great. I hope you will revisit the angles of your drive line u-joints, especially the first one behind the transmission before damage occurs. Spicer has a nice publication on drive line geometry. You where close but no cigar LOL
Truck is looking great! Be careful placing your hand between the impact and the floor. When I was about 15 years old i smashed my hand between the impact and the concrete floor doing exactly what you were doing. It was very painful I don’t want to see anyone else make the same mistake I did. Can’t wait to see the HD complete!
Thank you! 👍
Great film Waldo ! I'm going to apply your drive shaft angle theory to my project at the moment , mounting prototype V8 triumph with transmission in an old commer van should be fun if nothing else ! Can't wait for your next episode see if it all works it's bound too Waldo did it !
Very cool project, good luck!
I can’t wait until you get it on the road. Great job!!!
Thanks, me too! 🤠
You can also put on both caps and use the vise to squeeze them in and then you can use a socket to finish the install.
Love the video's keep up the good work and god bless and stay safe.
Thank you! 🤠
great job mate, love your click-click on your wrench
As a grand master technician for 48 years, I would have liked to see the spacer for the center bearing support made out of solid bar or at least with tubular spacers for the bolts. The torque exhibited is quite substantial under heavy loads. That's why the original bracket is engineered so robust. Next time level the frame & then measure the angles with a Starrett angle gauge & your driveshaft will be "spot on" rather than "close enough". Other than that nice job. (A u-joint press would have done a better job with less pounding on hardened bearing caps. They will shatter.).
Your not an mc
Flog
Are you also the grand master of the kkk?
This project is so awesome I'm glad I found you channel!
Thank you and welcome!
I always enjoy watching these videos. A good learning tool . Let me share some experience with drive shafts . I worked at a power plant for over 30 years and on the cooling towers there is a large electric motor that drives a gear box through drive shafts . Initially they were two shafts that were stainless steel and a center support bearing . Those things failed regularly and that resulted in damaged to the fan blades . Sometimes total loss . In fact Sometimes they through a blade off into another cell lol. Total carnage. The fix was in the case a one piece I think fiber glass or some kind of man made material. Failure stopped in that area . At any rate when I did the g56 conversion I went with a one piece aluminum drive shaft. Works OK. I remember years ago when I was a kid out of tech school I worked for gm and they have drive line class that explained so of the material you spoke about . Lots of learning experiences over the years on drive shafts . I heard of guys balancing there drive shafts with worm clamps . Lot of trial and error there lol
I'd love a c3500HD, just that in Montana we need that "K". Also 4 doors for the family to ride along lol my 93 K3500 Crew SRW will do, just planning for a spare 6.2 diesel to be machined and then I'll put it in. Current 6.5 smokes. 50k miles on the retired fire chief truck and previous owners ran it out of oil so they had someone throw a junkyard 6.5 back in, welp... here I am replacing it with a nice 6.2. lol Nice vids, keeps the creative mind going on my own projects!
Yeah, I hear you, 4WD is really nice to have!
You never use a 0 degrees. the u-joint needs to move to keep from bearing rollers from embedding. The engine should be the same as the rear end. 3 degrees is the most you can have in the shafts angle. Even if you have to lower the engine.
Great segment on driveshafts and u-joints!
Your project is coming along nicely! Thanks for the videos!!
Thanks for watching!
Hey Waldo really enjoying your DIY project
Thank you!
The snap rings pack may include multiple thickness rings. Purists say use a dial indicator to measure the joint play and use the right size snap ring to adjust the play. I think most people go by feel 😉
Another great video, Waldo. I have a similar 3/4” impact, and when trying to undo the nuts on my u-bolts, I found I had to upsize my airline from 3/8 to 1/2 to get full torque from the impact. Now, put some paint on that hanger bearing spacer. Haha
Thanks, Greg! That's a really good point, I need to get a larger air hose!
Larger air fittings too like a Milton Type V
Not gonna tell you how to do your job, think it turned out great! However I would have welded some sockets or pipe (if I could find it small enough) in where you made the spacer, and use some grade 8 bolts to go right through it. Just a thought!
Or you could order a one piece aluminum driveshaft from Driveshaft Specialist (San Antonia, TX) and never have to fool with that bearing again! That's what I did with my 2003 long bed RAM.
Nice job! Very entertaining as well as educational. Love this project keep it up 👍🏼
Thank you very much!
No shade tree stuff here
Bet you have an engineering background or ASE certified
Good stuff thanks
Thank you! I do have an engineering background, though it's in software/computers
Really appreciate your channel. Excellent production. I’m hooked now !
Love it ! Keep up the great work man !
Thank you very much!
Keep up the great work!
Thank you! 🤠
Love Your Work.
Thank you! 🤠
11:03 i thought of Steve1983MREInfo when you said "Nice!" hehe. This is an awesome series, and your channel is great. Thank you!!
Well done 👍 very interesting work.
Thank you! 👍
G'day Waldo interesting video mate
Thank you! 🤠
Awsome job man!!! Loving your channel
Thanks a ton!
awesome job!!
Thank you! 👍
@@WaldosWorld your welcome
Every once in a while I forget that at this point in the build there’s no bed (I went back and started at the beginning) and I get confused when there are shots like the one showing the diff from the top 😂
You need a bigger diameter air hose for that 3/4" impact.
Told you you should have went two to two and a half inches on the center section
you put on a information packed show my friend ! I'm curious if you would share how you obtain the information you share , specifically the drive shaft angles ?I'm getting to be an old dog but I always like to learn new things. thanks !!
A lot of the information came from wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint. There's also a torsional analysis calculator that's pretty useful: spicerparts.com/calculators/torsional-analysis-calculator
MORE VIDEOS!! Love them!
Thank you!
keep up the good work
Great video man keep up with the great work 👊👌
Thanks, Martin! 👊
Question/observation: Your 5 degree angle that is causing concern should become quite a bit less when you put weight on the rear of the truck compressing the rear suspension effectively raising the rear end relative to the frame. If this is to be a heavy towing truck that will spend much of its life with a trailer would it not be better to have a little angle in that drive shaft when it is unloaded?
You might be right about that. I'll have to measure the angles again once I build a flatbed for it. That'll probably add at least 1,000 lbs to the back
Adjusting driveshaft and pinion angles with no weight on the rear end is a mistake because they'll change again when weight is applied. You don't even have a truckbed installed so obviously weight will be applied, to say nothing of trailer tongue weight or payload.
Yeah, I'll probably re-check the angles once there's weight on the back 👍
Great job
When installing put wrench to hold iup inter part of the jont.
It would be nice to have an ARB air locker in that rear axle if they make one for it.
They do make one (it's a Dana 80), and I was seriously thinking about buying it! I ended up getting an Eaton Detroit TrueTrac, which is a Torsen style LSD. I'll be installing it and re-gearing the rear diff in a future video
@@WaldosWorld Yes, that is a great diff also.
- aluminum rims or fake hub caps ? , or paint ? , love the red frame anything bright * happy place to work *
They're stainless steel wheel simulators
8:45 XDXD, I weigh like 300ish and I did the same thing until I couldnt pull anymore, I was bending the U bolts so I thought I was about to break them (they are grade 8)
woldo you neep to be sure the working angle of each joint is 1.5 max to .5 minumn not so much the joint angle to compute working angle one joint angle to the other and subtract same result is working angle the crosses need .5 min to 1.5 max so needles will rotate around crosses.
If you knew anything Waldo he would just drop the center part of the drive shaft and I would fix 99% of your problems with alignment dummy
congrats
- your amazing , great job/work *
Thank you!
I find that everything goes easier when I use"CRC Knocker Loose" penetrating oil before disassembly and I always slather anti-seize compound on all threads before replacement. What happened to the disk guard that came on that angle grinder? The sparks (burning iron) will eat holes in your clothing. (did the dog eat it?) Ron W4BIN
Now that you mention it, that sounds about right! The dog probably ate it 😂
After all that work on the wiring harness did you put it all back in new wire loom? I noticed on the video you didn’t have it in it.
I've put some of it in loom so far, but I'll definitely get the rest before driving it 👍
Other then for content, why did you take the Cummins out of the Dodge/Ram? Why didn't you just resto mod the Dodge/Ram?
That's a good question. Content was definitely a part of it, but I guess I'm more of a fan of GMs than Dodges 🤷♂️
@@WaldosWorld Then wouldn't you go Duramax not Cummins?
Beast
what flywheel and clutch did you use? I'm doing about the same swap but using a 6 speed.
The clutch and flywheel came with the transmission (luckily!), but I think the flywheel is a Cummins 3977281 and the clutch is an Eaton 107621-7
On a dirty tear down use brake liner cleaner.Always.
Nice
hi, so you had to make custom engine mounts for the engine to fit in?
Yeah, I didn't try off-the-shelf engine mounts, but I don't think they would have worked well. I certainly wouldn't have been able to fit the mechanical radiator fan!
Where is a good place to look for a 3500 fixer upper ??
So on the first drive shaft section is it recommended to have the yokes of the u joint clocked the same as the 2 yokes of the 2nd driveshaft section?
No, the first driveshaft should be opposite the second, or in other words, rotated 90 degrees
When it's complete need to drive that thing into a barrel of oil with these nh rot problems
I'm thinking I probably won't drive it in the winter. I've put too much work into it to have it rust away on me 😂
@@WaldosWorld give it a nice cost of fluid film or something even just the moisture parking it on grass will murder it
Man you should’ve gone Chevy
If that blade on the grinder breaks, you will wish you had a face shield on.
What's the payload on a 3500 HD
GVWR is 15,000 lbs, though I don't know how much the truck weighs yet, so I don't know the payload capacity 🤷♂️. I'll definitely weigh it once I build a flatbed for it
are you going to make some traction bars ?
I didn't even know what they were until I just looked it up 😂. I guess we'll see if they're needed 🤷♂️
@@WaldosWorld from what i understand they prevent the pinion from moving up when you take off
bd diesel made a really god video on them a while back
Click click!!
😬
Just use the vice
WD 40 works
Hoe much was the dodge truck
What were the seats out of ?
The seats came out of a 90s Pontiac Bonneville
Click click
Hi ya ...which part of the USA are you in...You dont sound American ,You sound as if your from the Uk.
I'm in New Hampshire 👍
Please straight pipe the truck
I hate to tell you. This is not the way you remove a joint. You never hit any part of the shaft
NEVER hit the yoke or the driveshaft!!!
You need to drop it down to the two and a half inches dummy
STOP SAYING FABRICOBBLING!!! ✋Choose something else as your trademark, please.
Way too to technical