Sir!! You are a lifesaver! Right now, i'm having the same problem. The last 2days trying to resolve the problem. And VOILA! Here you are solving my problem . Thank you so much!!! Must def buying you guys a coffe,! All the best,Thank you!!
@@freelyroaming Looking forward to see the Installation EP. Quick question: are you going to put the aluminium plate in direct contact whit the cells ? or leave a slight gap? thank you !!
I think i will install it without any gaps but I will electrically insulate it with kapton tape in between just in case the metal enclosure of the cells might cause shorting issues. I have a few days of rain ahead of me here but I plan to work on the installation as soon as the weather gets better.
This is great. I have been thinking about this thermal control topic. After I put battery pack together and finish van build, I will be on to this step.
012421/0333h PST- 1133h UTC Iâve been watching a few of your presentations. Your presentation is crisp, clear, concise and comprehensible. Thank you. The temperature variation in California is minimal, but during winter the Mercury dips down to about 32~31 F (some times) and during summer; Mercury climbs to 100~105 F (some times) Though both the spectrums are not detrimental to normal function of 14.60V @560Ah LiFePo4 bank; I decided to incorporate your idea of ventilation/gently heating the Banks. I opted for XH-W3001 temperature controller (110 AC) than DC. The heating pads will also operate through 12Vdc SMPS. As a whole, your design is considered the best and thank you. 73s...
Thank you very much. A simple solution to the complexity of making SURE any BMS does in FACT incorporate a low temp protection. Thank you for this vid and all the previous ones. You are top.
Hi Dan, I like your channel. It's well organized, you have links to components used and the explanations are very good. I ran into the same problems with temperature, which you described, and I am now trying to fix this. Good job !
@@montaguemonro565 yes I have. I have 2 raspberry pi 4 boards currently serving other duties right now but I might consider repurposing one for this. However, I do not have a permanent wifi network in the van. We cross too many borders and don't want to risk accidental roaming charges.
Well done.....I have used this chemistry for 10 years. I have built 4 electric cars and am driving my seventh electric car. With that said I have never used a heater or cooler. Temps in summer are up to 110 and winter is below 0 degrees F. These batteries take a while to cool. IT can be below freezing for a few days before the batteries are that cold. If you use them they will heat up to above freezing very quickly. I monitor my batteries both in the battery box for air temp and between the batteries. This way I know what the true temp is...not just air temp. Summer, I have used them in 110 degrees with battery temps in the 115 to 120. I have had no problems at these temps. This cannot be said of other chemistry. You have made a very easy and probably effective system...good job
Thank you. Glad to hear your experience in this. Right now the sensor is monitoring the air inside the box but with this installation, it will be updated to measure the cells in direct contact. The beauty about this system is the temperature relays are completely customizable. I am able to adjust the start and stop temperatures according to what is necessary. Not just based on ambient air temperature. Also using these batteries in high-amp draw applications like an electric vehicle is very different than my deep-cycle camper use. My application will generate very little heat, if at all from the battery itself. Mostly less than 0.1C discharge rate and not ever more than 0.2C. It will practically never be above ambient air temperature. Also electric vehicles do not have to worry about permanently mounted solar panel charging which happens automatically and immediately when the sun rises in winter mornings when the temperature are the coldest. With these batteries, the type of application means everything on how they should be configured.
ITC-1000 temp controller can do heating and cooling with one device and seem to be pretty accurate. Something to keep in mind if the controllers you're using don't work out for whatever reason
I`m on doing the same kinda setup for my lifepo4 12v, but I have a Victron BMW 712 shunt and that has relay I can use with a temperature sensor to control the heating pads in my battery pack. I also bought 10x10cm heat pads and they are crazy heaters :)
Depends on how it is attached. It will be fixed under the battery with a silicone mat insulating it from below which will direct all of the heat into the cells above.
Nice idea but I wouldnât run it directly off the battery but rather off the BMS switched output. That way if the battery gets out of spec the BMS will switch the heaters off. It also acts as an additional safety measure in case the DTC fails closed. That was the only part of the design that concerned me - Iâm just not sure how reliable those cheap DTCs are? No experience with them. Update - just read a review on Amazon saying one failed closed. Maybe they were swtching too much current, but I think Iâd go for something higher quality than this.
You will see in the next installation video that the power will come from the bus bars of my dc system which is bms protected. I actually did say in the video that power will connect to bus bars and not the battery posts. The intention was never to run it off of the battery directly. That would be a bad idea. If anyone is buildings a diy pack they should know that nothing connects to battery main negative except BMS. That's pretty much first rule of diy lithium build. These temperature relays are extremely simple circuits. They should not cost more than a few bucks. If you are paying for more expensive ones you are either getting ripped off or they need to offer more functionality. This specific one is designed to remain in the same state if it falls. So if it failed closed then it was closed at time of failure. That's due to the simplicity of the design. For it to always open on fail it would add a bit more complexity to the circuit but would theoretically be a better option. I'm gonna stress test them a bit and see how they fare. It's an easy component to replace in the future if I find a different unit since I'm connecting everything with xt60s.
Great job Dan, I'll need to have heaters when I install lithium and your system is very well done. BTW, 18 this am in Bishop. I just returned from our home in NM, it was 7 at sunrise a few days ago. Not cold enough to freeze the balls off a pool table but...
Hi Dan and thanks for sharing your knowledge and inspiration. But I dont understand how you prevent the battery from being discharged when the sun doesnt give the power?! I mean during nights and weeks of cloudy winterweeks. Do You have any wiring to show? Or can I just mount the thermostat (and then the heat pad) to the power suply (MPPT)? Matz, Sweden
The concern that I have with this control scheme is that it could use the battery power when it is too cold to do any good. I'm thinking of using two temperature controllers so that the outside temperature needs to be at least some minimum temperature before the battery compartment temperature controller can work.
Very nice setup. I'm looking to use the little 10 watt pads with the thermostat to keep a small 20-30ah 12 volt battery warm for my duck pen electric fence and lights so I can finally get rid of the lead acid battery for it. I imagine underneath the plate and pads you have a sheet of insulation in the bottom of the box so that the heat only rises up into the batteries.
even if the industry of LifePO4 batteries brought us the arctic-tech stuff in form of heating-pads... it's simply wrong installation which brings these expensive batteries in a state like this... so in practise this might sound arrogant here: makes no sense ! You can do it but how often you'll really really need it even if you live in a van as a fulltimer... if you live in a van you probably will not bring the inside of the van in a state of under 0 to 5C° (clever use of the heating-system could be one solution here) and overheating a batterie-bank can be avoided passivly without spending money on more electrical stuff in the car which can be fail either. But I like your approach, too. In the end the installation-area is more important... I would go with the fan and some aluminium heat-sink around the sides of your batteriebank but heating the system ... I don't know... the weak point is somewhere else then! At least if the install is planed in a van or a car in general.
Hi , Did your heating pad have 2 thin red wires are the temperature probe wires? Mine has those and 2 for power but thinking if i should somehow hook them to that temp control box.... Thanks Keep up the great videos!
Nice vid. I was just thinking about building a similar setup for heating. Since I'm mainly in cold weather. Like the added idea of the aluminum sheetmetal to spread the heat out. I was thinking of using 70°-80°C PTC heaters 5w-50w since wouldn't use full wattage if didn't need to. Also add redundancy by using two similar thermostats and two heaters incase one fails. Set both thermostat couple degrees apart so also have staging. For the price of the parts cheap insurance
I have a couple PTC 80 degree heaters on their way. Not sure which ones I will use in the final build. It depends how practical they are. The silicone ones right now seen like a better form factor. I don't think the variable wattage will matter. The amount of time they stay on will essentially be the way to moderate power use. If I was spending a lot of time in really cold weather, I would set up 2 stages of heating like you are suggesting. That is to make sure that temperatures don't plunge to fast and not giving the heaters enough time to build up heat before it gets too cold. The 2-stage heating will also allow you to limit how much power is consumed as less heaters will be activated when the temperature isn't extremely low.
@@freelyroaming ah cool. Curious on how yours turns out. Your vids have been very well put together and informative. I'm still in design mode till better weather. Often we are in the snow or just 20°f outside in the winter.
@Kyle, the best way for sad demise, of LiFePo4 Prismatic cell, is extreme low temperature as yours. The best range of temperature is around 70~73°F. Stay safe.
So while temperature is the topic how do u get a normal block temperature for ur rigs engine and transmission. Do u have an Esbar block heater. I thought those heating pads u were putting in ur battery system would be a great transmission fluid heater. Just curious. Carpe Diem to "youall" ciao
Loving your channel - only just discovered it! I am building my system based on your build inc heating / cooling system.... but I am building a 24v version - my electrical knowledge not good so would your 2 temp Sensor units and pads work on 24v battery or do I need a drop down box? Canât wait for next video!
Thank you Steve! The heaters, fan and sensors are specifically for 12v so you will need to run it thru a buck converter to convert it to 12v first or find 24v alternatives.
@@freelyroaming thanks Dan - I thought that might be the case... just getting ready to order my diy batteries and daly bms for delivery over here in UK! So will look for either 24v versions. Thanks for super quick answer đ€đ»
Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for this? You just hooked everything together and then have one fuse before the power source? This is all one circuit? Sorry im new to wiring things myself.
Hi, just came across your video and really enjoyed it - gave me a lot of ideas because I want to build a heated/eatable 280 Ah battery like yours. I have just one question - do you happen to remember HOW THICK 'that' piece of aluminum as a heat spreader underneath the batteries was? And - although obviously prices may vary how much you had to pay for it? Thanks
Any idea how will those heating pads cope with 10+ years of going from -20C to +30C between seasons? Thinking of doing this with our cabin in Finland. By only using the heating element when solar panels push in DC voltage during the morning sun. BMS will kick in to charge, when battery temp is warm enough.
I think it should be fine. These are simple heating elements made up of resistive coils so there isn't much to go wrong. But I don't have enough personal experience to know for sure. I guess they are cheap enough to replace every few years if needed.
How has your thermostat/controller been holding up? I was about to buy 1 from your link, but I am seeing several amazon reviews saying it quit working after a week or a month. Just curious about your experience.
I've not used it long enough to give a definitive review but so far it's been good. I suspect people are trying to pull more than it's rated 10A capacity and burning it out in the process. These solid state devices don't really have any other way to break besides being pushed over it's designed limits. Keep it under 10A and I think it will work just fine.
Hi Dan... I was considering buying two 80 watt silicone heating pads measuring 6" x 4" each. My battery size is 14" x 11". Does that sound ok?.... I considered these 80 watt pads from Aliexpress vs the 12 or 25 watt pads because I figure it will heat up to temperature faster. I already bought the temperature controller from Amazon.
Seems a little high for the battery to be in direct contact with such heat. By the time the set temp registers on the switch the batteries have been sitting on the hot aluminum sheet for a while. do you have the batteries elevated over the aluminum plate? Or are you using some type of thermostat to limit the temp output of the pads
Great video. Have you tested the energy draw from a) the sensors alone b) the sensors and fan and c) the sensors and heating pads? Guessing the fan is minimal but some cost benefit might need to be done on the heating... at least for my little solar setup.
The draw on the temp sensor is so low it's practically zero. 0.02 watt is what I was able to measure with one of meters. I mentioned the power draw of the fan and heaters in the video. Fans draws 5 watts and all 4 heating pads draw 60 watts combined.
@@freelyroaming I missed that. Sorry for the repeat question. You use the âbeehiveâ heaters? Your link goes to a search. Also, 14 gauge wire? Thank you!
There are a lot of different brand and sizes of the heaters. As long as they are 12v it will work. 14 ga wire should be sufficient for a 60 watt heater since that's only 5 amps of draw.
Pardon my inexperience, but I have only seen one large heating pad and not multiple heating pads used for this application.. They all need to turn on and off at the same time, or only one may be doing all the work....!
There is no difference if you have one or multiple if they are wired to the same temperature controller which in this case IS acting as the power switch. They do not have individual ways of turning on and off. They can only work as one. It is actually rather common commercially to have 2 heating elements. One on each side of the battery pack.
Hi there I have purchased a batteries like I said 280 A amps do you mind telling me what is your mains charger from your outside power is it at 10 amp 15 amp is there a limit to how much power as I was looking at 30 amp Charger many thanks Colin
@@freelyroaming The whole of Europe seems to be lockdown not sure what France and Spain If theyâre free to travel I know Spain had some horrendous weather the other day if youâve never done France it is fantastic in the summer
If you are running a lithium pack with a BMS then you don't need the battery protect. That's what the BMS will do. But if you are using a standard lead acid deep cycle battery then it would help you not over drawing your pack.
Finally, a video that addresses the whole picture
Sir!! You are a lifesaver!
Right now, i'm having the same problem. The last 2days trying to resolve the problem.
And VOILA! Here you are solving my problem . Thank you so much!!! Must def buying you guys a coffe,!
All the best,Thank you!!
Yay! I literally just got the 20 watt heaters in the mail this morning and got right to making this video. Glad it was timely for you!
@@freelyroaming Looking forward to see the Installation EP. Quick question: are you going to put the aluminium plate in direct contact whit the cells ? or leave a slight gap? thank you !!
I think i will install it without any gaps but I will electrically insulate it with kapton tape in between just in case the metal enclosure of the cells might cause shorting issues. I have a few days of rain ahead of me here but I plan to work on the installation as soon as the weather gets better.
Very clever, having just spent a lot on a new lifpo4, Iâm going to copy your idea. Great thanks.
You are welcome and thank you for watching!
watched all three videos, Thanks. I live and camp in colder weather, so this will be a great add on to protect my battery.
Thank you for watching!
This is great. I have been thinking about this thermal control topic. After I put battery pack together and finish van build, I will be on to this step.
Thank you. Glad it was helpful
That are smart ideas! Thank you
Good channel. You have a natural way of presenting. Thanks for posting. Subscribed!!
thank you!
Ur the McGiver in Croatia! ! LOL. Short and simple. This is how it should be. Waiting for ur next DIY on battery life extention.
012421/0333h PST- 1133h UTC Iâve been watching a few of your presentations. Your presentation is crisp, clear, concise and comprehensible. Thank you. The temperature variation in California is minimal, but during winter the Mercury dips down to about 32~31 F (some times) and during summer; Mercury climbs to 100~105 F (some times) Though both the spectrums are not detrimental to normal function of 14.60V @560Ah LiFePo4 bank; I decided to incorporate your idea of ventilation/gently heating the Banks.
I opted for XH-W3001 temperature controller (110 AC) than DC. The heating pads will also operate through
12Vdc SMPS.
As a whole, your design is considered the best and thank you. 73s...
Just what I've been looking for, thanks. Subscribed!
I'm glad I found your channel, Dan. I'm looking forward to watching you build your heating/cooling system. I'm planning to do the same thing.
Thank you!
Thank you very much. A simple solution to the complexity of making SURE any BMS does in FACT incorporate a low temp protection. Thank you for this vid and all the previous ones. You are top.
Hi Dan, I like your channel. It's well organized, you have links to components used and the explanations are very good. I ran into the same problems with temperature, which you described, and I am now trying to fix this. Good job !
Zeer goed uitgelegd, en het is nu voor mij wel duidelijk, geen AGM accu's meer en ik zal je systeem na maken!!!
Yes finally! I'm currently top balancing my cells now. Massive pain off-grid haha.Thanks for this video, dead keen. :)
Haha yes. You are on your own for everything off the grid but I know you've got this!
@@freelyroaming Have you considered setting up a raspberry pi with venus os to work as a hub? I got one running on my boat and its really good!
@@montaguemonro565 yes I have. I have 2 raspberry pi 4 boards currently serving other duties right now but I might consider repurposing one for this. However, I do not have a permanent wifi network in the van. We cross too many borders and don't want to risk accidental roaming charges.
Well done.....I have used this chemistry for 10 years. I have built 4 electric cars and am driving my seventh electric car. With that said I have never used a heater or cooler. Temps in summer are up to 110 and winter is below 0 degrees F. These batteries take a while to cool. IT can be below freezing for a few days before the batteries are that cold. If you use them they will heat up to above freezing very quickly. I monitor my batteries both in the battery box for air temp and between the batteries. This way I know what the true temp is...not just air temp. Summer, I have used them in 110 degrees with battery temps in the 115 to 120. I have had no problems at these temps. This cannot be said of other chemistry. You have made a very easy and probably effective system...good job
Thank you. Glad to hear your experience in this. Right now the sensor is monitoring the air inside the box but with this installation, it will be updated to measure the cells in direct contact. The beauty about this system is the temperature relays are completely customizable. I am able to adjust the start and stop temperatures according to what is necessary. Not just based on ambient air temperature. Also using these batteries in high-amp draw applications like an electric vehicle is very different than my deep-cycle camper use. My application will generate very little heat, if at all from the battery itself. Mostly less than 0.1C discharge rate and not ever more than 0.2C. It will practically never be above ambient air temperature. Also electric vehicles do not have to worry about permanently mounted solar panel charging which happens automatically and immediately when the sun rises in winter mornings when the temperature are the coldest. With these batteries, the type of application means everything on how they should be configured.
You are quite correct
I am also using in my campervan and my homemade power wall in my home
My goal is to enable my system to function in far colder temperature then freezing. Winter northern lights hunting in Norway comes to mind.
Love your setup. Thank you so much for sharing your build.
Awesome and simple. Good job. Appreciate you sharing. Thank you, Tom
Thanks Tom!
Awesome. You are a natural teacher. Batteries on route and I'm in Canada. Need i say more about needing heaters?? Thanks for the info!!!
Thank you Lenny!
Nice work Dan
Very educational and easy to follow đ
Looking forward to the next episode đ
Thank you Troy as always!
Thank you
ITC-1000 temp controller can do heating and cooling with one device and seem to be pretty accurate. Something to keep in mind if the controllers you're using don't work out for whatever reason
Itc-1000 is 110 AC.
@@AaronPhillips76 stc-1000 is 110vac. itc-1000 is 12vdc
I`m on doing the same kinda setup for my lifepo4 12v, but I have a Victron BMW 712 shunt and that has relay I can use with a temperature sensor to control the heating pads in my battery pack. I also bought 10x10cm heat pads and they are crazy heaters :)
That's great! Unfortunately my Victron SmartShunt does not have relay features. That is a bonus with the BMV-712 for sure.
hi just discovered your channel, I watched all the LifePo batteries videos they are very informative thanks !
Nice. That's awesome. I think this has a lot of potential ...
Those are neat temperature controllers. For the aluminum plate, I would think they will instead disipate the heat into ambiant air.
Depends on how it is attached. It will be fixed under the battery with a silicone mat insulating it from below which will direct all of the heat into the cells above.
Nice idea but I wouldnât run it directly off the battery but rather off the BMS switched output. That way if the battery gets out of spec the BMS will switch the heaters off. It also acts as an additional safety measure in case the DTC fails closed. That was the only part of the design that concerned me - Iâm just not sure how reliable those cheap DTCs are? No experience with them. Update - just read a review on Amazon saying one failed closed. Maybe they were swtching too much current, but I think Iâd go for something higher quality than this.
You will see in the next installation video that the power will come from the bus bars of my dc system which is bms protected. I actually did say in the video that power will connect to bus bars and not the battery posts. The intention was never to run it off of the battery directly. That would be a bad idea. If anyone is buildings a diy pack they should know that nothing connects to battery main negative except BMS. That's pretty much first rule of diy lithium build. These temperature relays are extremely simple circuits. They should not cost more than a few bucks. If you are paying for more expensive ones you are either getting ripped off or they need to offer more functionality. This specific one is designed to remain in the same state if it falls. So if it failed closed then it was closed at time of failure. That's due to the simplicity of the design. For it to always open on fail it would add a bit more complexity to the circuit but would theoretically be a better option. I'm gonna stress test them a bit and see how they fare. It's an easy component to replace in the future if I find a different unit since I'm connecting everything with xt60s.
Great job Dan, I'll need to have heaters when I install lithium and your system is very well done. BTW, 18 this am in Bishop. I just returned from our home in NM, it was 7 at sunrise a few days ago. Not cold enough to freeze the balls off a pool table but...
I did hear some serious snow dumping was happening along the sierras this week. That's too cold for my SoCal @$$....
@@freelyroaming Mammoth got over 7 feet two days ago!
@@freelyroaming headed to Schatz Bakkery to get us some breakfast croissants!
An advantage to mechanical type snap/bimetallic temp switches is they consume no power .
Excellent! I will likely use parts or all of your idea. Thanks
Thank you!
nice, thanx
Thank you Chip!
Hi Dan and thanks for sharing your knowledge and inspiration. But I dont understand how you prevent the battery from being discharged when the sun doesnt give the power?! I mean during nights and weeks of cloudy winterweeks. Do You have any wiring to show? Or can I just mount the thermostat (and then the heat pad) to the power suply (MPPT)? Matz, Sweden
Excellent post very educational.Thank You
Thanks
The concern that I have with this control scheme is that it could use the battery power when it is too cold to do any good. I'm thinking of using two temperature controllers so that the outside temperature needs to be at least some minimum temperature before the battery compartment temperature controller can work.
Very nice setup. I'm looking to use the little 10 watt pads with the thermostat to keep a small 20-30ah 12 volt battery warm for my duck pen electric fence and lights so I can finally get rid of the lead acid battery for it. I imagine underneath the plate and pads you have a sheet of insulation in the bottom of the box so that the heat only rises up into the batteries.
Yes I am planning on placing some silicone trivets from IKEA underneath. It will insulate as well as help dampen road vibrations a little.
even if the industry of LifePO4 batteries brought us the arctic-tech stuff in form of heating-pads... it's simply wrong installation which brings these expensive batteries in a state like this... so in practise this might sound arrogant here: makes no sense ! You can do it but how often you'll really really need it even if you live in a van as a fulltimer... if you live in a van you probably will not bring the inside of the van in a state of under 0 to 5C° (clever use of the heating-system could be one solution here) and overheating a batterie-bank can be avoided passivly without spending money on more electrical stuff in the car which can be fail either. But I like your approach, too. In the end the installation-area is more important... I would go with the fan and some aluminium heat-sink around the sides of your batteriebank but heating the system ... I don't know... the weak point is somewhere else then! At least if the install is planed in a van or a car in general.
Nice video! I am also going to implement this in my diy LifePO4 battery. Are the temperature switches reliable though?
So far so good
Awesome đđżđđĄđđđż
My bms has this built-in
Hi , Did your heating pad have 2 thin red wires are the temperature probe wires? Mine has those and 2 for power but thinking if i should somehow hook them to that temp control box....
Thanks
Keep up the great videos!
Nice vid. I was just thinking about building a similar setup for heating. Since I'm mainly in cold weather. Like the added idea of the aluminum sheetmetal to spread the heat out. I was thinking of using 70°-80°C PTC heaters 5w-50w since wouldn't use full wattage if didn't need to. Also add redundancy by using two similar thermostats and two heaters incase one fails. Set both thermostat couple degrees apart so also have staging. For the price of the parts cheap insurance
I have a couple PTC 80 degree heaters on their way. Not sure which ones I will use in the final build. It depends how practical they are. The silicone ones right now seen like a better form factor. I don't think the variable wattage will matter. The amount of time they stay on will essentially be the way to moderate power use. If I was spending a lot of time in really cold weather, I would set up 2 stages of heating like you are suggesting. That is to make sure that temperatures don't plunge to fast and not giving the heaters enough time to build up heat before it gets too cold. The 2-stage heating will also allow you to limit how much power is consumed as less heaters will be activated when the temperature isn't extremely low.
@@freelyroaming ah cool. Curious on how yours turns out. Your vids have been very well put together and informative. I'm still in design mode till better weather. Often we are in the snow or just 20°f outside in the winter.
@Kyle, the best way for sad demise, of LiFePo4 Prismatic cell, is extreme low temperature as yours. The best range of temperature is around 70~73°F. Stay safe.
@@sreekumarUSA yep. Why I'm planning on making heat
So while temperature is the topic how do u get a normal block temperature for ur rigs engine and transmission. Do u have an Esbar block heater. I thought those heating pads u were putting in ur battery system would be a great transmission fluid heater. Just curious. Carpe Diem to "youall" ciao
there is a thing for wallpower that does both controllers on amazon : Inkbird ITC-308 for under 40 Euros in Germany.
I believe that is only AC. Not a 12VDC device.
@@freelyroaming Inkbird ITC-1000 (12V) runs on 12v
Good video. How much current will the temp controllers handle?
It's rated for 10A.
This guy sounds like Thomas sanladerer
Loving your channel - only just discovered it! I am building my system based on your build inc heating / cooling system.... but I am building a 24v version - my electrical knowledge not good so would your 2 temp
Sensor units and pads work on 24v battery or do I need a drop down box? Canât wait for next video!
Thank you Steve! The heaters, fan and sensors are specifically for 12v so you will need to run it thru a buck converter to convert it to 12v first or find 24v alternatives.
@@freelyroaming thanks Dan - I thought that might be the case... just getting ready to order my diy batteries and daly bms for delivery over here in UK! So will look for either 24v versions. Thanks for super quick answer đ€đ»
On Amazon search for XH-W3001 12V or XH-W3001 24V or XH-W3001 220V. They are all offered.
@@richardsirois6975 nice one!
Iâd be worried about fires, using heating pads, especially if it got wet, make sure properly fused
I think it goes without saying that everything that uses electricity should be fused properly.
Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for this? You just hooked everything together and then have one fuse before the power source? This is all one circuit? Sorry im new to wiring things myself.
I do not have one yet but will post it on the website soon.
@@freelyroaming okay sounds good :) everything is just run in parallel?
Hi, just came across your video and really enjoyed it - gave me a lot of ideas because I want to build a heated/eatable 280 Ah battery like yours. I have just one question - do you happen to remember HOW THICK 'that' piece of aluminum as a heat spreader underneath the batteries was? And - although obviously prices may vary how much you had to pay for it? Thanks
Any idea how will those heating pads cope with 10+ years of going from -20C to +30C between seasons? Thinking of doing this with our cabin in Finland. By only using the heating element when solar panels push in DC voltage during the morning sun. BMS will kick in to charge, when battery temp is warm enough.
I think it should be fine. These are simple heating elements made up of resistive coils so there isn't much to go wrong. But I don't have enough personal experience to know for sure. I guess they are cheap enough to replace every few years if needed.
How has your thermostat/controller been holding up? I was about to buy 1 from your link, but I am seeing several amazon reviews saying it quit working after a week or a month. Just curious about your experience.
I've not used it long enough to give a definitive review but so far it's been good. I suspect people are trying to pull more than it's rated 10A capacity and burning it out in the process. These solid state devices don't really have any other way to break besides being pushed over it's designed limits. Keep it under 10A and I think it will work just fine.
Hi Dan... I was considering buying two 80 watt silicone heating pads measuring 6" x 4" each. My battery size is 14" x 11". Does that sound ok?.... I considered these 80 watt pads from Aliexpress vs the 12 or 25 watt pads because I figure it will heat up to temperature faster. I already bought the temperature controller from Amazon.
I think that will work just fine.
Whatâs the max temp the little 10w pads reach when connected to 12v?
I've measured them at above 180F with an infrared thermometer.
Seems a little high for the battery to be in direct contact with such heat. By the time the set temp registers on the switch the batteries have been sitting on the hot aluminum sheet for a while. do you have the batteries elevated over the aluminum plate? Or are you using some type of thermostat to limit the temp output of the pads
If you are intetest you can watch part 2 and see how it's installed.
Great video. Have you tested the energy draw from a) the sensors alone b) the sensors and fan and c) the sensors and heating pads? Guessing the fan is minimal but some cost benefit might need to be done on the heating... at least for my little solar setup.
The draw on the temp sensor is so low it's practically zero. 0.02 watt is what I was able to measure with one of meters. I mentioned the power draw of the fan and heaters in the video. Fans draws 5 watts and all 4 heating pads draw 60 watts combined.
@@freelyroaming I missed that. Sorry for the repeat question. You use the âbeehiveâ heaters? Your link goes to a search. Also, 14 gauge wire? Thank you!
There are a lot of different brand and sizes of the heaters. As long as they are 12v it will work. 14 ga wire should be sufficient for a 60 watt heater since that's only 5 amps of draw.
@@freelyroaming thanks! Now, if I could only set it up to heat when it knows itâs going to be a sunny day :)
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Pardon my inexperience, but I have only seen one large heating pad and not multiple heating pads used for this application.. They all need to turn on and off at the same time, or only one may be doing all the work....!
There is no difference if you have one or multiple if they are wired to the same temperature controller which in this case IS acting as the power switch. They do not have individual ways of turning on and off. They can only work as one. It is actually rather common commercially to have 2 heating elements. One on each side of the battery pack.
LTO batteries don't need temp control!
That's why this video is talking about LiFePO4 batteries. LTO batteries are not practical for 12 volt applications which is what I need mine for.
great idea for heating genius idea
Thanks Colin.
Hi there I have purchased a batteries like I said 280 A amps do you mind telling me what is your mains charger from your outside power is it at 10 amp 15 amp is there a limit to how much power as I was looking at 30 amp Charger many thanks Colin
I'm using a 15 amp charger from NOCO. But you can certainly use a higher current charger as long as it is compatible with the battery chemistry.
do you think you will ever vist uk in summer or france
We were suppose to explore UK last year but, well, you know what happened. This summer we are coming!
@@freelyroaming hopefully uk all ok by summer we are still on full lock down
Yeah we plan on being here for a few months more and see how things look
@@freelyroaming The whole of Europe seems to be lockdown not sure what France and Spain If theyâre free to travel I know Spain had some horrendous weather the other day if youâve never done France it is fantastic in the summer
i think of buying victron 12 volt shunt and this not sure if i need this Victron Energy Smart Battery Protect 12/24V 100A - BPR110022000
If you are running a lithium pack with a BMS then you don't need the battery protect. That's what the BMS will do. But if you are using a standard lead acid deep cycle battery then it would help you not over drawing your pack.