Here’s a suggestion. If you have Company that sells concrete products, landscape blocks, etc, the one in my city has every size of backing rod either on spools or in sticks. It’s way less expensive. I bought 300 feet of backer rod for $10.
I've used Tremco's Vulkem products for years. Another tip is that if you don't want to apply sand and need the surface to skin up faster to prevent leaves from sticking you can mist the surface with water. Vulkem is moisture curing and that will allow the surface to skin over and keep things like leaves from sticking.
Jeremy you are absolutely right( most urethane sealants are moisture cured) but if the concrete gets wet before the sealant has cured it can affect the bond. I have installed miles of sealant on flat work and what I do is get a sheet of Masonite, rip it into approximately 4” wide strips for typical 3/4” joints, wider for wider joints, and tape it over the joint. If the sealant is installed properly the Masonite won’t touch the sealant.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Hi, please, , I need to cover the space between the wall panel and the patio floor concrete. There is a gap of 2 cm through which mice, cockroaches and frogs enter. I'm afraid of using putty between two different materials (the wall panel and the concrete) and breaking the wall panel when the product expands. What do you advise me ) Does this product accept to glue these two different materials or does it only glue concrete with concrete ?
Your video was fantastic for us! My boyfriend and I watched it twice& applied the backer rods and Velkum to the gaps in his driveway and his patio. The suggestion to sprinkle sand over the fresh bead of Velkum is spot on! All the gaps now look like they were sealed with concrete! A true professional job! We used Velkum 45 in Limestone, backer rods from Amazon size 1. 1/2 inch, and very fine white play sand. Excellent overall video! We just want to say thank you very, very much!
Not 2 fantastic really I worked for Real Legit caulking companies for decades and would be fired immediately if I ever just pumped caulking in a joint and didn’t even knife it The finish knifing is the skill and Caulking is a trade not just a specialty skill but Endless “ experts “ all over utube are Flim Flamming Cob jobbing and worst of all Wet Tooling which could get Entire companies thrown off jobs Contracts Voided not just the wet tooling one The sand actually isn’t a bad idea on a hot sunny day and dark caulking or if you want the aggregate look but you have to tool it to seal it otherwise It’s NOT A SEAL WHICH IS THE ENTIRE PURPOSE OF WHAT YOUR SUPPOSED TO BE DOING!! Also caulking sidewalks and concrete joints is mostly completely unnecessary and often times does more damage than good even if you are a real caulker
If you slightly pull or stretch on the backer rod during installation, my experience proves its dimension narrows enough to more easily fit the void without having to do all the poking. It’s a feel, but a slight twist along with gently stretching also narrows it, and one it is properly positioned, the rod relaxes holding right in place. For even larger gaps, usually where the slab meets the garage floor or the curb; I’ve used insulated pipe wrap for copper piping. It’s the same closed cell foam as the backer rod. Just be sure to fit it tight at junctions because it usually isn’t a continuous length. I’ve found rather than butting the end together, it’s better to force one end deeper in the crack and slightly overlay the next piece on top. The same is true for the regular backer rod wherever there may be a seam.
Great video. I did a similar project but I used something different than sand on top. I went to a local landscape supply place and found the aggregate that most looked like my exposed aggregate driveway. I took a bucket and swept up the dust from the bottom of the aggregate bin and put that over my sealer. It matched the driveway color very closely and gave it a nice blended look.
I'm halfway done with my driveway, and it's been a lot of trial and error. I went to buy more caulk and only found the thicker version that doesn't self-level. It wasn't flowing right and required a pretty tight grip on the gun to run, but setting the canisters in the sun while I worked helped a lot. Thanks for the tips!
I had a rather large driveway with a lot of expansion joints. After pricing the sealant I decided to go a different way. Like in this video, I cleaned out all the rotted wood and filled in any deeper wash areas with sand, but instead of using the backer rod, I used a soaker hose. You can get the soaker hose in different sizes to fit standard width joints and once pressed into the joint it looked great. I had the home for about 5 years after the installation and it looked as good when I sold the house as it did the day I installed it. As for the cost, soaker hoses are super cheap compared to sealants and caulk.
@@KickButtMarketing I probably was not clear in the description of what I did. Yes, backer rod is cheaper than soaker hose but it is not UV resistant so you will still need to buy the expensive caulk to put on top of it. WIth soaker hose, that is all you use.....just the hose. There is no need to caulk the top of it as it serves the purpose of looking good and keeping weeds out and will last for a long time.
I thought the point of the sealant was to keep water from going under the slab and, through freeze-thaw cycles creating voids & upheavals, cracking the slab.
For someone who has absolutely no caulking skills like this guy in the video that soaker hose or even just Replace the expansion material if you can and Do not caulk. I’ve seen concrete sidewalks and all kind of others completely fail and blow out maybe because like this guy, they didn’t even knife and tool it
I just did this and the day before I put down some adhesive material then put the backer rod down, then a day or two later I finished the job. So far so good. The backer rod did not move.
Applying the sand on top is very smart not only to blend but to protect the Polyurethane from UV exposure and extending the life of this expansion joint. Great job.
I thought this was great instructions, and I followed them as well as your other videos. I started with some back rod, and then I realized with some of the larger cracks that I used your pool noodle trick and that consistency of the pool noodle worked a lot better for me. It was much easier to squish down into the crack and keep in place. Thank you your videos are great!
Vulkem caulking is an excellent product and will last a long time. I use a liquid tool handle product to seal partially used tubes of caulking. Just dip the open end of your caulk tube into the liquid tool handle and it will keep the caulking just like new until the next time you need it.
Super helpful, thank you! I've been meaning to fix some gaps and sinking slates on my driveway/step without breaking the bank, even if it will only last 5-10 years. Having already bought the supplies, I'm looking forward to warm weather in 2024 to start this project!!! Thank you!
I just cleaned between my slabs with a multitool with a caulk removal head, after cleaning the cracks out I used put some Preen in the cracks and I haven't had a weed between them in six months.
For a professional look with the sealant, use a fine sand like Quikrete Playground sand. Mix it half and half with a concrete resurfacer. Spread it on right after you lay down the sealant. This will blend in with just about any concrete surface. It works great.
In plumbing section they sell those foam sleeves that insulate pipes. They kinda look like mini pool noodles. Can cut custom made backer rod :). Worked for me.
Easy way to measure the slope of the driveway is to use wood scraps or something (old magazines) to shim up a 4 foot level and measure the drop. The 48 inch long level is roughly half of 100 inches so a 3 inch drop would be approx. 6% gradient. 3 inches or less would be acceptable for that leveling caulk product.
@@randomdude3066 7% is pretty close to the recommended 6% limit so if you can't find a better product try it on a cool, cloudy day and it might not be too runny.
I did the sand trick with a loctite ssl product. When we sold our house this last summer it was still holding strong as ever. That was probably a total of 13 years ago, conservatively.
I think that in pressure washing the seams / surfaces where the expansion joint goes would give you a cleaner surface for the joint compound to adhere to. Your end result looks great!!
He didn’t even knife or tool it it isn’t even sealed which is the entire purpose. It’s nothing more than a backer rod and caulking pumped into a big concrete joint and sand thrown on top
This was a great video with easy to follow step. However, if I hired someone to complete the job for me, what is a reasonable fee less products, I would supply the products. Thanks
I found the backer rod gets costly. For the bigger gaps, I put some sand in first, then filled the gap with small pebbles instead, leaving about 1/4" to 3/8" vertical space for the sealant. Once you put the sealant in, small amount of sealant flows in and fill the gaps among the pebbles, forming a pebble re-enforced sealant strip. This way, the sealed area is flexible and yet tough. The foam backer rod backing is too soft for me, unless you work to compress it hard. I abandoned that approach. For mid-size gaps, just fill the gap with sand first, still leave at least 1/4" space and then apply sealant. For small gaps, directly fill with sealant. Sealant is not cheap. You only need to fill the top layer with it. I also used pressure wash to remove the debris in the gap to save time. Make sure you have a few sunny days to work with. The area needs to be totally dry, or the sealant won't stick well. I ended up using 20 tubes to finish the job. It has been 4 years. It is still in great shape. Sprinkle the sealed surface is necessary, or the sealed strip looks too prominent and unnatural. But do it while the sealant is not yet fully cured, or it won't stick. I applied the sand when it was semi cured, by waiting for 15 minutes or before I did it. Applying it too soon you will see the sand sink into the sealant and largely disappears. The sand forms a thin layer of "crust" which is more abrasion resistant. It helps protect the sealant surface for a long lasting job.
I live in the south so am not worried about freeze/thaw cycles, but I am worried about undermining along the expansion joints. In the years since you've been using the sealant, have you seen evidence of ants digging through it? Also does a pressure washer damage the sealant?
@@dchall8 No, I did not see ants digging thru it. But in a couple of spots, I saw weed coming out. One needs to clean the gap thoroughly if there is grass or weed in it. Perhaps treat it with a thin layer of salt too. I have not pressure-washed it after. But I think it won't damage it. The cured sealant is pretty tough. The line where the sealant meets the concrete maybe more vulnerable. So avoid those areas.
For asphalt cracks always put dry sand in to fill any cavities and also establish a 1/2 reveal for crack filler. Dry sand on top of cracks so not stick to shoes and tires etc. Dry sand sticks better and binds in in time from traffic.
That looks great. I did mine last year with the sika, I did something wrong as I have some bubbles. I poked the bubbles while it was fresh and got the air out but still have quit a few bubbles. I wish mine looked like yours.. 😀😀😀 Thanks as your videos are very well presented.
Great video. Can you do one on what to use to seal between concrete foundation and sidewalk. Had trouble finding a product that worked well for that of any videos on it.
I've tried that on my driveway 2 years ago and this what happened. The backing deteriorated and sections of sealant started to collapse exposing the gaps again. It looked good at first but now gotta figure out what went wrong.
@@sandyrinks1834 I read that I should use silica sand. Is that what you used by chance? I'm trying to figure out what brand and where to buy it. Thanks.
It will continue to fail if you don’t even knife and tool the caulking. This guys work isn’t sealed. It’s just caulking pumped into the joint with sand on top FLIM FLAM
I have sidewalk cracks. Your video provides understandable step by step directions. I plan to fix one crack first using your method, products and tips. If it works, I’ll do the others. I’m wondering if living in Hawaii with its humidity requires special consideration on the choice of caulking? I am an older female and perhaps best to contact the manufacturer for advice or a referral to a reputable contractor.
I jsut did my 75' drive. Most home owners don't know about this easy maintenance process...I use a crushed granite rock (blue tint) that has som sand since I has exposed aggregate. I kinda press tha small pieces into the sealant.
I use the self leveling sealant on my RV. It does not las long in South Texas. Good tips on cleaning up the area before applying the sealant. Good information on the backer Rod.
It is very important to make sure the crack is clean before filling. Not just scraping or blowing out the dirt. Use a mixture of bleach and water and then a pressure washer or garden hose to rinse the crack. Otherwise the filler wont bond to the concrete sides down in the crack. It will look good for a while but after a winter the filler will pull away from the sides of the crack.
Brought here from your driveway pressure washing tutorial…. Questioning now why you didn’t first clean the driveway before sealing these expansion joints? 😂 Also the sand seems a great idea - however how durable is it? Wouldn’t your pressure washer rip it all off when cleaning the drive? Be good to know. Otherwise great videos
Such a great video! Liked and subbed! I made the mistake of using a backer rod that was slightly smaller in diameter as you warned. Sorry I watched this video after my project was complete. The backer rod did rise in four spots out of the 20 foot job. I waited the next day and slightly sanded the sealer (sika) and the 3/4” backer rod. I then cleaned the area and reapplied the sika and made sure its level and had a clean finish. I hope this will fix the problem and not give me problems in the future. I don’t think it will but fingered crossed. Thanks again and if you have any advice for me please don’t hesitate to let me know. Much appreciated for all your help and great work.
I have a driveway that has both slope (much less than 6%) and horizontal applications for the sealant. Besides cost is there a downside to using the Vulkem45 SSL in all applications or what % of slope is acceptable for Sika Sealant. The specs look the same for gap movement between Sika Self Leveling and Vulkem SSL so it just come down to slope.
I love that. I wonder if it last for so many years. I am using the asphalt type like the one you took off before you started the project. It is a knuckle buster and lasts about four years looking sharp. Thank you for sharing. My next project for the spring
Your vids are so helpful. I ordered the Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL for filling some driveway cracks just like you did. I got some from Amazon and others from our local Home Depot (9 total). Unfortunately the ones I got are much thicker than yours and lay down very thick and require smoothing out which does not work. Why is this? Your looks so much more liquid. I even left them sit in the sun to warm up for an hour which helped a smidge but not much. Help!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs The end result was similar to yours. I used a large weed burner torch attached to a 5gal propane tank. Worked great. Just cleaned the cracks, filled with product and applied the heat.
Great video, thanks. 9:40 I highly recommend using sand. Otherwise, the white sealant will get dark / look dirty where your car's tires roll over them.
While I found your video very informative, we need to replace the expansion joint where our driveway and the street come together. The joint is closer to two inches wide on one end and 3" on the other end. How should we fill that joint prior to the self-leveling filler?
I've been through this this laborious process. I did fill the void left by the removed EJ material with sand as recommended before installing the backer rod and sealant. The treatment did not look last long Started failing within 3 years. Even with wire brushing the concrete, the sealant did not adhere very long, water got in, washed out the sand, and then weeds took over as before. I was removing unsightly sealant before long. I'd try soaker hose next time. Note: concrete shrinks as it cures and unretrained slabs shift with freeze thaw so once that happens the joints may get too wide for soaker hose. Not found a low maintenance option. Perhaps a self adhering self expanding full depth joint filler?
This is a really helpful video. Can you recommend the type of sand that I should use to fill the gap between the concrete driveway and the brick house before putting in the backer rod? The gap is 4 inches in depth. Thanks.
Anyone have any ideas what sealant to use for top-to-bottom cracks in very steep driveways? This product seems only good up to 6 degree slopes. I'm guessing mine could be up to a 25 degree slope.
Could you please let me know: 1. The sand you added in too is “dry” sand ? What’s the name of “dry sand”? I can’t find it in Home Depot or Lowes. 2. for under back rod, should I use “dry” sand ? or ok for use with “wet” sand ??
I like the precise instruction he gives with full sincerity and no nonsense type presentation
I did this 30 years ago. And it's still in place.
Here’s a suggestion. If you have Company that sells concrete products, landscape blocks, etc, the one in my city has every size of backing rod either on spools or in sticks. It’s way less expensive. I bought 300 feet of backer rod for $10.
Why not use clean sand instead of backer rod to fill in the crack first? Seems like it would be faster, easier, and cheaper. Just thinking....
Whaaaa, can you give an example of a company that does this??
I've used Tremco's Vulkem products for years. Another tip is that if you don't want to apply sand and need the surface to skin up faster to prevent leaves from sticking you can mist the surface with water. Vulkem is moisture curing and that will allow the surface to skin over and keep things like leaves from sticking.
Nice, thanks for the tip Jeremy 👍
Jeremy you are absolutely right( most urethane sealants are moisture cured) but if the concrete gets wet before the sealant has cured it can affect the bond. I have installed miles of sealant on flat work and what I do is get a sheet of Masonite, rip it into approximately 4” wide strips for typical 3/4” joints, wider for wider joints, and tape it over the joint. If the sealant is installed properly the Masonite won’t touch the sealant.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Hi, please, , I need to cover the space between the wall panel and the patio floor concrete. There is a gap of 2 cm through which mice, cockroaches and frogs enter. I'm afraid of using putty between two different materials (the wall panel and the concrete) and breaking the wall panel when the product expands. What do you advise me ) Does this product accept to glue these two different materials or does it only glue concrete with concrete ?
Another Wet tooling flim flam man trick
Thank you for the tip!
Your video was fantastic for us! My boyfriend and I watched it twice& applied the backer rods and Velkum to the gaps in his driveway and his patio. The suggestion to sprinkle sand over the fresh bead of Velkum is spot on! All the gaps now look like they were sealed with concrete! A true professional job! We used Velkum 45 in Limestone, backer rods from Amazon size 1. 1/2 inch, and very fine white play sand. Excellent overall video! We just want to say thank you very, very much!
Not 2 fantastic really I worked for Real Legit caulking companies for decades and would be fired immediately if I ever just pumped caulking in a joint and didn’t even knife it The finish knifing is the skill and Caulking is a trade not just a specialty skill but Endless “ experts “ all over utube are Flim Flamming Cob jobbing and worst of all Wet Tooling which could get Entire companies thrown off jobs Contracts Voided not just the wet tooling one The sand actually isn’t a bad idea on a hot sunny day and dark caulking or if you want the aggregate look but you have to tool it to seal it otherwise It’s NOT A SEAL WHICH IS THE ENTIRE PURPOSE OF WHAT YOUR SUPPOSED TO BE DOING!! Also caulking sidewalks and concrete joints is mostly completely unnecessary and often times does more damage than good even if you are a real caulker
If you slightly pull or stretch on the backer rod during installation, my experience proves its dimension narrows enough to more easily fit the void without having to do all the poking. It’s a feel, but a slight twist along with gently stretching also narrows it, and one it is properly positioned, the rod relaxes holding right in place. For even larger gaps, usually where the slab meets the garage floor or the curb; I’ve used insulated pipe wrap for copper piping. It’s the same closed cell foam as the backer rod. Just be sure to fit it tight at junctions because it usually isn’t a continuous length. I’ve found rather than butting the end together, it’s better to force one end deeper in the crack and slightly overlay the next piece on top. The same is true for the regular backer rod wherever there may be a seam.
Great video. I did a similar project but I used something different than sand on top. I went to a local landscape supply place and found the aggregate that most looked like my exposed aggregate driveway. I took a bucket and swept up the dust from the bottom of the aggregate bin and put that over my sealer. It matched the driveway color very closely and gave it a nice blended look.
Clever!!
I'm halfway done with my driveway, and it's been a lot of trial and error. I went to buy more caulk and only found the thicker version that doesn't self-level. It wasn't flowing right and required a pretty tight grip on the gun to run, but setting the canisters in the sun while I worked helped a lot.
Thanks for the tips!
I had a rather large driveway with a lot of expansion joints. After pricing the sealant I decided to go a different way. Like in this video, I cleaned out all the rotted wood and filled in any deeper wash areas with sand, but instead of using the backer rod, I used a soaker hose. You can get the soaker hose in different sizes to fit standard width joints and once pressed into the joint it looked great. I had the home for about 5 years after the installation and it looked as good when I sold the house as it did the day I installed it. As for the cost, soaker hoses are super cheap compared to sealants and caulk.
I dunno- I just bought 100' of 5/8 backer rod for $24.00+ and soaker hose in 3/8" is twice that price at the Big Box stores
@@KickButtMarketing I probably was not clear in the description of what I did. Yes, backer rod is cheaper than soaker hose but it is not UV resistant so you will still need to buy the expensive caulk to put on top of it. WIth soaker hose, that is all you use.....just the hose. There is no need to caulk the top of it as it serves the purpose of looking good and keeping weeds out and will last for a long time.
I thought the point of the sealant was to keep water from going under the slab and, through freeze-thaw cycles creating voids & upheavals, cracking the slab.
Great idea but the joint won't be watertight right? Water can get under and undermine the base...?
For someone who has absolutely no caulking skills like this guy in the video that soaker hose or even just Replace the expansion material if you can and Do not caulk. I’ve seen concrete sidewalks and all kind of others completely fail and blow out maybe because like this guy, they didn’t even knife and tool it
I just did this and the day before I put down some adhesive material then put the backer rod down, then a day or two later I finished the job. So far so good. The backer rod did not move.
Applying the sand on top is very smart not only to blend but to protect the Polyurethane from UV exposure and extending the life of this expansion joint. Great job.
I thought this was great instructions, and I followed them as well as your other videos. I started with some back rod, and then I realized with some of the larger cracks that I used your pool noodle trick and that consistency of the pool noodle worked a lot better for me. It was much easier to squish down into the crack and keep in place. Thank you your videos are great!
Vulkem caulking is an excellent product and will last a long time. I use a liquid tool handle product to seal partially used tubes of caulking. Just dip the open end of your caulk tube into the liquid tool handle and it will keep the caulking just like new until the next time you need it.
This was a great video. Love his no-nonsense approach, so easy to follow along. Thank you!
Super helpful, thank you! I've been meaning to fix some gaps and sinking slates on my driveway/step without breaking the bank, even if it will only last 5-10 years. Having already bought the supplies, I'm looking forward to warm weather in 2024 to start this project!!! Thank you!
I just cleaned between my slabs with a multitool with a caulk removal head, after cleaning the cracks out I used put some Preen in the cracks and I haven't had a weed between them in six months.
For a professional look with the sealant, use a fine sand like Quikrete Playground sand. Mix it half and half with a concrete resurfacer. Spread it on right after you lay down the sealant. This will blend in with just about any concrete surface. It works great.
I have not heard about the concrete resurfacer before, being mixed with the sand. Gonna try it. Does the sand adhere better this way?
Your channel has started my new obsession, house and yard care projects
Welcome to the team 😂
In plumbing section they sell those foam sleeves that insulate pipes. They kinda look like mini pool noodles. Can cut custom made backer rod :). Worked for me.
Great video, thanks! I have two slabs off my back door with a 1inch gap - I’ll be finding the thicker backer rods and following your steps accordingly
5:26 - "I'm going back home, weeeeee!!" 😂
Easy way to measure the slope of the driveway is to use wood scraps or something (old magazines) to shim up a 4 foot level and measure the drop. The 48 inch long level is roughly half of 100 inches so a 3 inch drop would be approx. 6% gradient. 3 inches or less would be acceptable for that leveling caulk product.
What should I use if my driveway slope is 7%
@@randomdude3066 7% is pretty close to the recommended 6% limit so if you can't find a better product try it on a cool, cloudy day and it might not be too runny.
With high slope, use a non sag product
Great video. Can you please do a follow-up after six months or a year to show us how it has held up? I'm curious how long the sand coating will last.
I did the sand trick with a loctite ssl product. When we sold our house this last summer it was still holding strong as ever. That was probably a total of 13 years ago, conservatively.
What state?@@mattrinne
@@TheTurbomopar NE. Cold winters. Humid summers. And it was on a driveway getting blasted by sun.
I think that in pressure washing the seams / surfaces where the expansion joint goes would give you a cleaner surface for the joint compound to adhere to. Your end result looks great!!
And while he has the pressure washer fired up, do the entire driveway.
He didn’t even knife or tool it it isn’t even sealed which is the entire purpose. It’s nothing more than a backer rod and caulking pumped into a big concrete joint and sand thrown on top
This was a great video with easy to follow step. However, if I hired someone to complete the job for me, what is a reasonable fee less products, I would supply the products. Thanks
Thank you for wearing the knee pads.
Harbor freight has several pads to choose from.
I found the backer rod gets costly. For the bigger gaps, I put some sand in first, then filled the gap with small pebbles instead, leaving about 1/4" to 3/8" vertical space for the sealant. Once you put the sealant in, small amount of sealant flows in and fill the gaps among the pebbles, forming a pebble re-enforced sealant strip. This way, the sealed area is flexible and yet tough. The foam backer rod backing is too soft for me, unless you work to compress it hard. I abandoned that approach. For mid-size gaps, just fill the gap with sand first, still leave at least 1/4" space and then apply sealant. For small gaps, directly fill with sealant. Sealant is not cheap. You only need to fill the top layer with it. I also used pressure wash to remove the debris in the gap to save time. Make sure you have a few sunny days to work with. The area needs to be totally dry, or the sealant won't stick well. I ended up using 20 tubes to finish the job. It has been 4 years. It is still in great shape. Sprinkle the sealed surface is necessary, or the sealed strip looks too prominent and unnatural. But do it while the sealant is not yet fully cured, or it won't stick. I applied the sand when it was semi cured, by waiting for 15 minutes or before I did it. Applying it too soon you will see the sand sink into the sealant and largely disappears. The sand forms a thin layer of "crust" which is more abrasion resistant. It helps protect the sealant surface for a long lasting job.
I live in the south so am not worried about freeze/thaw cycles, but I am worried about undermining along the expansion joints. In the years since you've been using the sealant, have you seen evidence of ants digging through it? Also does a pressure washer damage the sealant?
Thanks for the additional info!! Big help.
@@dchall8 No, I did not see ants digging thru it. But in a couple of spots, I saw weed coming out. One needs to clean the gap thoroughly if there is grass or weed in it. Perhaps treat it with a thin layer of salt too. I have not pressure-washed it after. But I think it won't damage it. The cured sealant is pretty tough. The line where the sealant meets the concrete maybe more vulnerable. So avoid those areas.
That’s the most over complicated and ridiculous things I’ve ever heard about in decades of Real caulking! No offense
It also lasted a long long time.. You can cut corners and do it every year. It is good business for the contractors. No offense.@@toecutter1015
For asphalt cracks always put dry sand in to fill any cavities and also establish a 1/2 reveal for crack filler. Dry sand on top of cracks so not stick to shoes and tires etc.
Dry sand sticks better and binds in in time from traffic.
Great sand tip. Thanks for the video!
You bet.
That looks great. I did mine last year with the sika, I did something wrong as I have some bubbles. I poked the bubbles while it was fresh and got the air out but still have quit a few bubbles. I wish mine looked like yours.. 😀😀😀 Thanks as your videos are very well presented.
You most likely used a closed cell backer rod rather than open cell. Closed cell releases gases if punctured which will cause bubbles
Excellent information and instructions! Thank you
Great video. Can you do one on what to use to seal between concrete foundation and sidewalk. Had trouble finding a product that worked well for that of any videos on it.
I've tried that on my driveway 2 years ago and this what happened. The backing deteriorated and sections of sealant started to collapse exposing the gaps again. It looked good at first but now gotta figure out what went wrong.
first fill in the gap with sand up to the point you insert the backer. the sand will support the backer and sealant.
@@sandyrinks1834 I read that I should use silica sand. Is that what you used by chance? I'm trying to figure out what brand and where to buy it. Thanks.
It will continue to fail if you don’t even knife and tool the caulking. This guys work isn’t sealed. It’s just caulking pumped into the joint with sand on top FLIM FLAM
Don’t forget ACE Hardware!! We have all that stuff too. Thanks!! Always great advice!
I am an ACE fan 👍
Just what I needed. Thank You Sir.
I have sidewalk cracks. Your video provides understandable step by step directions. I plan to fix one crack first using your method, products and tips. If it works, I’ll do the others. I’m wondering if living in Hawaii with its humidity requires special consideration on the choice of caulking? I am an older female and perhaps best to contact the manufacturer for advice or a referral to a reputable contractor.
Thank you for the good tips 😊
Clear and precise instructions. Thank you!
You bet!
I jsut did my 75' drive. Most home owners don't know about this easy maintenance process...I use a crushed granite rock (blue tint) that has som sand since I has exposed aggregate. I kinda press tha small pieces into the sealant.
Great video! Very helpful. I am trying to start my own business and pressure washing is one of the services.
Looks good 👍. Next step, power wash the driveway.
Great video I have to raise my sidewalk and this is cake and easy going in this weekend I already have everything I need Thanks
I'd like to see you do a video on concrete staining for a driveway. Might renew the driveway to almost new looking condition. Great video!
Thanks Sam, definitely need to do a good cleaning at a minimum 👍
I use the self leveling sealant on my RV. It does not las long in South Texas. Good tips on cleaning up
the area before applying the sealant. Good information on the backer Rod.
I don't think that's the same kind of sealant.
Perfect video. I enjoyed watching. Now I need to search for your prep video thanks!
How about using a power washer to clean out the cracks. Clean surfaces for bonding
Do you have a video for doing this on a sidewalk, if it takes several days to dry?
Excellent information, thank you!
this video was very helpful thankyou
I probably have. 30 degree slope driveway. Added an additional drive 2 years ago. Looking to fill horizontal gaps of old drive.
THIS GUY IS THE BEST!
Thanks!
Excellent video and information....thank you
Definitely the sand is a good tip. The sand also helps keep things from sticking to the fresh vulkem
Nice idea with using sand .
Fantastic! Just the right info I was looking for. Thanks!
great way to keep weeds out !!!!
💯
It is very important to make sure the crack is clean before filling. Not just scraping or blowing out the dirt. Use a mixture of bleach and water and then a pressure washer or garden hose to rinse the crack. Otherwise the filler wont bond to the concrete sides down in the crack. It will look good for a while but after a winter the filler will pull away from the sides of the crack.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support 🙌
I have a area like this around my pool. Thanks
I think I need to do a pool install video 🤔
Thx Scott. Very helpful videos.
Brought here from your driveway pressure washing tutorial…. Questioning now why you didn’t first clean the driveway before sealing these expansion joints? 😂
Also the sand seems a great idea - however how durable is it? Wouldn’t your pressure washer rip it all off when cleaning the drive? Be good to know.
Otherwise great videos
Such a great video! Liked and subbed! I made the mistake of using a backer rod that was slightly smaller in diameter as you warned. Sorry I watched this video after my project was complete. The backer rod did rise in four spots out of the 20 foot job. I waited the next day and slightly sanded the sealer (sika) and the 3/4” backer rod. I then cleaned the area and reapplied the sika and made sure its level and had a clean finish. I hope this will fix the problem and not give me problems in the future. I don’t think it will but fingered crossed. Thanks again and if you have any advice for me please don’t hesitate to let me know. Much appreciated for all your help and great work.
Welcome to the channel. Yeah, the first time I did something similar and even "braided"the backer rod in the larger gaps which didn't work that great.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsyou’re awesome!
Great video! Thank you for your hard work on this!
Any tips for a severely sloped driveway. I need to do this for my parents driveway, but it’s AT LEAST 10%-15%
I have a driveway that has both slope (much less than 6%) and horizontal applications for the sealant. Besides cost is there a downside to using the Vulkem45 SSL in all applications or what % of slope is acceptable for Sika Sealant. The specs look the same for gap movement between Sika Self Leveling and Vulkem SSL so it just come down to slope.
I love that. I wonder if it last for so many years. I am using the asphalt type like the one you took off before you started the project. It is a knuckle buster and lasts about four years looking sharp. Thank you for sharing. My next project for the spring
Very informative video. Great job. Btw, your lawn also looks great. Any videos to share on maintaining your lawn?
Use matching regular concrete sealant for your ends to dam up your ends then use self-leveling in-between. That is how I did it back in the day.
I’ve heard some people silicon each side of the backer rod after it’s installed to ensure no sealant flows around the rod.
Can I simply just caulk right over top of the wood in between my driveway seams???
Great video what if you had a greater slope?
Your vids are so helpful. I ordered the Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL for filling some driveway cracks just like you did. I got some from Amazon and others from our local Home Depot (9 total). Unfortunately the ones I got are much thicker than yours and lay down very thick and require smoothing out which does not work. Why is this? Your looks so much more liquid. I even left them sit in the sun to warm up for an hour which helped a smidge but not much. Help!
Will power washing remove the sand??
I have washed this sealant twice now with a pressure washer and still holding up great with the sand finish still holding strong.
Why not just fill the void with sand rather than a backer rod?
Because weeds will still grow through the sand
I used Crack Stixs for mine. Pretty easy to do and you get to play with fire doing it.
Did someone say fire 🔥 I have never used that product but looks nice! I have some smaller cracks and that might make for a great video 🤔
@@EverydayHomeRepairs The end result was similar to yours. I used a large weed burner torch attached to a 5gal propane tank. Worked great. Just cleaned the cracks, filled with product and applied the heat.
any options if your driveway grade is above 6%?
BRILLIANT..............................................A VERY GOOD VIDEO
Great video, thanks.
9:40 I highly recommend using sand.
Otherwise, the white sealant will get dark / look dirty where your car's tires roll over them.
Yes, check at 10:00.
@@mbrick He didn't say anything about tires. I did.
Since the driveway was dirty why didn't you pressure wash it and clean it first. Pressure washing it after this could compromise the job.
Thank you for the education
FANTASTIC VIDEO!! You just showed me how to fill in the gaps in the concrete of my back yard!! thank you very much Scott!!
While I found your video very informative, we need to replace the expansion joint where our driveway and the street come together. The joint is closer to two inches wide on one end and 3" on the other end. How should we fill that joint prior to the self-leveling filler?
Playground sand, then Pea gravel...then playground sand again, followed by backer rod and then sealant.
I cant find any semi-self leveling sealant at my local hardware store. Can i use non-sag sealant instead?
Great job. Looks very nice.
Thanks!
I've been through this this laborious process. I did fill the void left by the removed EJ material with sand as recommended before installing the backer rod and sealant. The treatment did not look last long Started failing within 3 years. Even with wire brushing the concrete, the sealant did not adhere very long, water got in, washed out the sand, and then weeds took over as before. I was removing unsightly sealant before long. I'd try soaker hose next time. Note: concrete shrinks as it cures and unretrained slabs shift with freeze thaw so once that happens the joints may get too wide for soaker hose. Not found a low maintenance option. Perhaps a self adhering self expanding full depth joint filler?
Great Video!
How do these joints hold up if you decided to power wash the drive?
This is a really helpful video. Can you recommend the type of sand that I should use to fill the gap between the concrete driveway and the brick house before putting in the backer rod? The gap is 4 inches in depth. Thanks.
Very nice!
nice job
Thanks Scott
anybody can let me know why we need to seal a gap between concrete slabs? is this required?
Anyone have any ideas what sealant to use for top-to-bottom cracks in very steep driveways? This product seems only good up to 6 degree slopes. I'm guessing mine could be up to a 25 degree slope.
Could you please let me know:
1. The sand you added in too is “dry” sand ? What’s the name of “dry sand”? I can’t find it in Home Depot or Lowes.
2. for under back rod, should I use “dry” sand ? or ok for use with “wet” sand ??
Just open the bag and let it dry for a while
*So you did this job on Wednesday the 10th at 10:42 AM.*
4:52
You can download an app for a phone to measure slop angles.
Very informative, thanks!
You bet!
Can you pressure wash over this?
Sure can 👍
Drinking game....take a shot everytime he says backerrod. 😅😵💫😵
🍻
Where is the other video you reference?