Ford 8 8 rear end vs 8 and 9 inch rear axles Which is best for Your Classic Ford
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2019
- Ford 8.8 rear end vs 8 and 9 inch Which is Best
Episode 46 Manic Mechanic
Check out the web site: www.manicmechaniconline.com
The Ford 8.8 is a hot topic rear end in the Ford classic car circles. We look at whether it is worth trying to find the axle in the salvage yards if you are in need of a more stout rear axle for your classic Ford. We price the Ford 8 inch rear end the Ford 9 inch rear end and the 8.8 rear axle to see how they compare.
Thanks for watching!
Jeff Ford Contact:
Jford@autorestomod.com - Jak na to + styl
im sticking with the 8 inch and happy to hear its good to 500hp at the crank, i will be at 400-450hp max at crank so im pleased.
A factory traction lock 28 spline 8 and 9" guts are the SAME... the weak spot is the two spider gears and the clutch pack.... 8/9" two spider rear is good for 300 hp at tires if set up well.
A 4 spider aftermarket trac.lok differential might be good for 400. Torsen gear type is best at 450, maybe, if it is 31 spline axles.
If youre hooking tight on slicks, all bets are off.
Yeah me too I'm just going to build my 8 inch center and hope for the best!
65 Fairlane 8” in my 67 Mustang, rebuilt myself, added new purchase’s and its been performing quite well.
I went with a 8.8 from a SN95 mustang GT in my 68. Bought axles and brackets from North Race Cars that allowed me to use the gt disc brakes, upgrade to 5 lug and retain the stock width of the 7.5 that was in the car originally. The GT has the trac-lok but does still have 28 spline. I did have to cut off the coil mounting brackets and weld on perches. For what I plan to do with the car, it will suit my needs. At least until I decide to build a full-floater 9" from Speedway Engineering.
Pick the best equipment you can afford.And that is the 9.
There plentiful,cheap.
Pick 1 out of a 71 Ford truck to a 85 ford van with 31 spline axles.
They all must be narrowed.
So, first take a Sawzall or a chop saw and cut the spot welds on the weld holding the tube to the case and remove the tubes. Slide them straight in and walk up the correct width needed for your application now measure and get your aftermarket axles with bearings and studs. When you get them Market together Jegs makes a device to slide into the case and it holds the rear end relatively straight. There are many CZcams videos showing how to do this. No weld it up.
In some applications this may be Overkill but like I said buy the best equipment you can afford it will pay dividends later.
But running a 9 inch Ford you can have any gear ratio you want in your vehicle Within 45 minutes. The 9-inch Ford can offer you a 2-point 45 rear end, threw up into the deep sixes. And it will be probably the last rear end they were needed for the car. The 8.8 in the GM 12-bolt or all integral rear ends which makes them a more difficult application for a gear swap. By myself I've collected over the years probably 10 different gear ratios that can be put in my vehicle within 45 minutes making them the ideal we're random choice. I think Ford abandoned the 9-inch Ford for one reason and wondering if reason only. And that is 9-inch Ford would Outlast the vehicle it was put in.
Well you have done it again a very informative Video, Great job.
You can install after-market parts in the 8-inch with heavier more spline axles. Running a built 8 inch 3 73 posi. under my 600hp 62 Falcon for 2 years now without any problems. 4 speed top loader manual transmission . Center Force clutch.
I'm building my 65 Futura wagon's 8" as well. 3.5 Ecoboost and 6R80. Using the rear u-joint as a fuse as usual. LOL! I typically run narrowed 8.8s, but the Futura's 8" should be fine for the "little" V6... I hope LOl!
I have one of those little 3.5s in my 2012 F150 and it feels like a big block under the hood. It's by far the fastest truck I've ever had! Good luck with your little 3.5!
quick performance is great i have had them make me a custom 9 inch for a 89k1500 with custom gm housing ends to use my stock drum brakes.they were good to deal with and the only company that was willing to even make them.moser and strange couldnt even do it ask 4 max he is a great guy to deal with.
Hay Jeff, thanks for the information on the 8" I just picked up a 1923 T bucket project and it has an 8 " in it. I just could not find any information on the 8". Every time I type in 8" Ford the 8.8" comes up. Thanks for the info. And yes I'll be running just under 300 up. So it should be just fine. Thanks Chris
thanks for the info. im buildung a 61 unibody truck and i have two 8.8’s and the original 9” that came in the truck. right now one of the 8.8” rears with disk brakes in in the truck. the original 9” rear is siting in front of the truck waiting for me to decide what to do. i think i am going to have the 9” rear built for my toy. thanks for all the info on the three versions i have to choose from. at least i dont have to go buy a rear just the parts.
Here is an observation that I have made with the mustang 8.8 and the explorer 8.8. The explorer axle is bigger in the tubes but it is also larger in the center section than the mustang axle. This will cause clearance issues in some cars.
Thanks for that!
I remember an old CarCraft article waaaay back in the day that said they found 9inch looses about 3.5% more than a 12bolt.
I've got a 64 Fairlane hardtop I'm going to be working on, and (some of them) came from the factory with 5-lug 9" rears, albeit with drum brakes. Exact width needed, easy peasy.
Which..."some of them came with a 9"? Excluding the Thunderbolt....
One guy was breaking 31 spline axles in a 8.8" with 650fhp. He went to 35 spline.
It can happen!
Hey Jeff , first the Explorer rear end spring peaches are on the bottom like the cars, 2nd 94-96 Mustang rear end will fit right in a 67-70 Mustang with the correct perches, just cut the coil spring crap off, and 3rd install 9in axle ends on the 8.8 housing and byebye c clips, all that being said I'm glad I got my 9in 58 Ranchero housing, big bearing 31 spline 3.50 equal lock, mark 5 disc brake rear end in my 65 fastback back in the day before all the stuff got so crazy.
Yep saw that after I cut and posted on the spring perches. Good to know on the 94-96...but still 28 spline axles.
to get the 31 splines on a 94-98 Mustang SN- 95 it would have to be the 8.8 rear axle out of a 94-98 Cobra and good luck finding one , Not a lot of them floating around unless someone did the 99-04 Cobra IRS swap into theirs .
I have a 65 Mustang Fastback. Years ago I got a 9 inch out of I think a 58? Edsel. It's the correct width. Now I have a 90 Mustang GT that's gonna be a donor car for the 65. I'm going to use the 302 and 5 speed for sure. I'm even thinking about using the front end from the 90 and cutting it down to go in the 65. I would appreciate your thoughts on using that front end for the 65. I found a 8.8 3.55 traction lock disc brakes rearend out of a Mercury Mountaineer in the junkyard a couple of years ago. From what you're saying, it's hopefully a 31 spline. I plan to find another short side tube and axle and put it on the long side to center up the chunk and have a slightly narrowed rearend. Do you forsee any problems with doing this?? Thanks for all your cool Ford videos!
8.8” lsd, 3.73 gears in my 1968 mustang coupe. Offset is not an issue. Can’t eject the axles because the rear disks stop them. All I needed was perches. The width was only a fraction wider.
Cool info.
Thanks
I put a absolutely a shit load of hp well into 4 digits on a big block turbo build thru a 35 spline bullet proofed 8.8 and it has held up very well.
Nice!
so I have alot of 8.8s in my life. but I'm a ford 9 inch guy. The junkyard 8.8 trick is to find the gears and posi out of the ford explorer housing and brakes from a mustang then order new 31 spline axles in my area 8.8 can be built for about $400-500..... that is its only redeeming quality in my opinion
They all have their place. The 2" offset of the Explorer 8.8 can be used to your advantage. Get another short side axle and shorten the long side housing to match. This will center the housing and narrow it enough to fit the falcon and other smaller cars. The 8" is about 100 pounds lighter than the 9" and will give you a much better ride in a light weight hot rod like a model A. Going for big horsepower go with the 9". If you just want a nice driver for the street the 8" or the 8.8 are both fine. I don't think I have ever seen a V8 explorer lose an axle because of the c-clip, not to mention that the caliper and bracket would also hold the axle in the event of c-clip failure. Most people looking into this are not drag racing with 900 horsepower and don't need the extra weight and parasitic drag.
Dang cuz! nice info.
Is it possible to change out the gearing in the stock F-100 9 3/8 to obtain a lower RPM and a little better street-ability?
The F100 should have a 9 inch. And yes, you can go to a lower number (2.79ish) to get lower RPM.
any info on the crown vic/grand marq/town car rear end. plenty of those in salvage yards with the old police/taxi cars
Explorer is really the best option. Crown Vic is the widest 8.8 and can be cut down, but most prefer the Explorer.
Man you picked a great looking Falcon to cover the story. Haha. I gotta come see ya and help with colonel mustard.
I knew you would like that sexy little Falcon. Come on over bud! We can always use the help.
What axel or rearend would be good to replace my 8 inch in my 78 cobra?
Will 8.8 explorer axel and housing work?
It will when modified. The Explorer rear axle is not a bolt in. You might be better served to go with a 9-inch from an aftermarket supplier.
I don't know how much experience you have and rear ends from Dana 44s to 9-in 8.8 14 10-bolt Chevys all them but I'll tell you this I use a lot of 8.8 rear ends and I've had a 427 LS twin turbo close to 2500 horsepower and when my torque converter is tight and I launch off my two step I have never had a problem so I don't know what 8.8 you've been dealing with but so far so good for me
We aren't saying that the 8.8 is not rugged. We are saying that it isn't a bolt in.
If you have a 302 engine with a C4 transmission which rear end would be the best to use for that a 8.8, 8, or 9 ?
The 8 will give you less parasitic horsepower loss, the 9 ins super strong and readily available the 8.8 is right between the two. The 8 is in most Fords of the '60s and will do great street duty but has less support in the aftermarket (and that support is more expensive than the 9. The 8.8 will have to be modified to fit most '60s and early '70s Fords.
I would like to put a crown Vic in my 67 f250 so I’ll need a rear end... I have a chance to buy a 69” wide Ford 8.8 with 3.25” tubes and 31spline... do you think it would fit nice and work well with crown Vic front?
It might. I'd measure the axe that is in the truck to back that up.
Call Strange and give them your needs! all New!
What about Ford Ranger 8.8" rears. There's a gazillion of them out there.
So previosly I put an AOD in my 65 mustang with 302, and it runs great. Same drive shaft. So I decided to get a 8.8 1996 ford explorer 3.73 trac lock diff. Shortened the tube. Trying to slip it back on and my driveshaft is now about 1 or 2 inches to long. Can't sit the perch back on the leaf nipple. What should I do? Different drive shaft? Grind off leaf nipple and relocate? Any help would be appreciated.
Can you send pictures you us of the issue? jford@autorestomod.com
@@AutoRestoMod The original drive shaft was to long for the AOD and 8.8 Eplorer rear end. I saw a guy used an Isuzu Rodeo drive shaft because its lighter and at 49.5 inches and it work. I actually think its still a little long. Now I don't know how to set up rear disc brakes with front drums. Will I need a proportioning valve or is that only for front disc conversions? I like to complement your CZcams channel. Love the videos! But I cant ever find the following video on CZcams easily. A playlist of episodes would be nice.
What if you just want to upgrade your 66 Mustang’s rear axle from four lug to five lug but plan on keeping the inline 6 ?
An 8 inch axle will work wonderfully.
Love my 31 spline 8.8 (4.10) with disc brakes in my TJ :D
Came from a 98 Explorer
My D35 axle shaft broke and wheel walked out (wheeling so slow), the disc brakes will help keep an axle in should it break ........ I hope
It is a really good axle for sure
ford 8.8 come with bearing plate bolts i.e. c clip eliminators gm's dont. but price hes missing labor if you dont have a welder or cant weld. also not touched on is updating brake systems up for the disc brakes as well
So I should be good with my 8 inch? I'm building my 351 Windsor to put out about 450-460 hp.
My honest opinion is, run it till it breaks. Then change it out. If under normal street use an 8" rear axle will be just fine. Usually you don't have enough tire back in the back with enough traction to cause breakage.
@@AutoRestoMod I like that. Run it till it breaks. Lol. Thank you and keep up the good work on your channel.
I’ve been building a 62 Mercury Comet over the past year. It’s now got a 302 / AOD and Ford 9”. The 9” was a DIRECT bolt in that came from a 1959 Ford Fairlane. It is 57 1/4” wide outside to outside drum width. 1960-65 Falcon and Comets rear axles are 56 1/2”. The spring perches are exactly the same width also! 53” on center. This all just an fyi for Falcon and Comet owners. The worst part about it is I can only run a 6” wide wheel (without ordering a custom backspacing). Check it out on my Instagram @tgarner317.
True, but finding a 1959 Fairlane is super tough.
While searching out my options for rear axles, I had read that this was a viable option. So, within a month I was able to locate a 59 Ford being parted out. Maybe I was lucky? I don’t know I’ve come across a few complete and bare 9” housings with the same dimensions since purchasing the one that’s in my car. I think they’re out there if you keep your eyes open. I didn’t see it mentioned and wanted others to know that this is literally a direct bolt in for 60-65 Falcons and Comets. By the way, I’ve come to enjoy watching your shows and am learning quite a bit from them. Thanks for your contribution to our fun albeit sometimes frustrating hobby! 👍🏻
Need a pretty strong 8 ??.
Use a solid sleeve, not a crush sleeve.... AND an Eaton Truetrak differential.
That IS THE strongest of any 8 inch diff. bar none
I put a pair of truetracs in myF250 & I'll never run a differential with clutches in it again.
We really like the True Trac too.
One axle I was hoping to hear about was the Lincoln Versailles 9”. Seems like a axle you don’t hear much about anymore. Any opinions on it?
Ten years ago I looked high and low for one, first I had to tell the junk yard what a Versallies was then I got a blank stare. You might still find a Granada 9" but it is going to be tough.
I actually know of 2 axles locally for sale here in Oregon haha
@@scottbeaver7489 As I recall it is very close in size for a 65-66 Mustang and has disc brakes so grab them both if the price is right. I am sticking with my 8 inch since horsepower is well under 300 for my 65 Mustang. I have a couple 9 inch units I keep around for projects but they are too wide for 65-66 Mustangs as they came out of Torinos.
This was more about a general primmer on the 8.8 vs the generic generalities of the 8 and 9 inch. Honestly, I would be shocked if you could even FIND a Versailles rear end today.
Closer to a Fairlane in width. Pretty sure it won't fit a '65 '66 Mustang. The Versailles is 58.2 and the Mustang 57.25.
what about the 8.8 rear axle from a police car crown vic ? that should be posi and set up with 31 splines to take the abuse .
SUPER wide...wider than the '67-72 F100 rear axle.
they use the crown vic front suspension from those same cars and those fit inside the wheel openings with the correct wheels so i would think the rear axle would as well .
You're gonna want a '57 Ford big car 9" rear end.
While I love the 57 Ford rear end they are getting harder and harder to find these days if find these days. You might do better finding an early eighties Ford F 100 and cutting the axles down to get a 9"
Ford 8" is good for 400HP? This should handle any SBF made for the STREET. More than 400 HP and you are asking for some serious hospital bills.
8:16 11-14's have live axles not independent
Yes, I said certain meaning the Cobras. But it wasn't super clear.
@@AutoRestoMod But you said 11-14. There aren't any 2011-2014 cobras. Ford didn't decide to reintroduce a IRS until 2015. 🤦🏾♂️😒
The offset of the explorer is 3 inch
LOL I have heard four and two. I went with the two because it was on two sites. 🤔
@@AutoRestoMod I'm sure cause I just did it my self and you have to get another short axle from a nother explorer
Yep. Technically 2&15/16.
I know when you look at aftermarket parts and engineering spec sheets, the 9 inch is claimed to be stronger; however, it can’t be denied that the highest horsepower vehicle Ford ever offered on the last live-axle Mustang was sitting on an 8.8…..with a warranty. This was also on tires with much more grip than anything a 9 inch ever saw in production. No disrespect to the 9 inch, but you better pack a lunch and a sleeping bag if you are expecting to destroy a properly built and maintained 8.8 within its design parameters. Wear out the clutches and start riding on the outside of the spider gears, and none of them will hold up.
My biggest beef with the 8.8 is the outer bearing design. You will have to replace the axles if you're replacing the bearing. But outside of that the 8.8 is an extremely strong and probably less horsepower draining rear axle.
@@AutoRestoMod Right there exactly, and we were just discussing that yesterday at the school where I work. Especially if you find those later 9 inchers with the tapered axle bearings (if I remember correctly, at least on the Lincolns it was 1973 and up). I don't know why, but that axle design where the bearing surface is literally on the axle seems to be the preferred method on many of those "Integral Carrier" type designs (at least on the Fords and Jeeps, but it seems like the durability of the Jeep axles is even worse). Thanks for responding!
@AutoRestoMod Best mix I have seen is 9" ends on an Expy housing. Also, if you run the 96 up Explorer with the rear disk setup, you don;t have to worry about your C-clips getting side-loaded enough to fail as readily as the drum units. It should also be noted that the axle shaft itself is retained by the rotor/caliper mechanical interference. I've actually seen a "dragging rear brake" issue end up being a lost C-clip, caliper was holding the axle in for lord knows how long. One and only time I've ever seen a rear disk one "fail" for that. Shaft hardness in the 02/03 Crown Vics caused alot of issues for Ford and fleet vehicles for a while until that got sorted. The 8.8 housings are also forged rather than cast and can be welded to the tubes easily, truss it if it's gonna see air time and Send It!